PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE

Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.

Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.

Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 5 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 3, and 4. 

So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.   

Sunday, October 8, 2023 – Villa Rigas, Pefkohori (4^th day)

Well, we are now on the last leg of our trip. All our clothes are dirty. I have eaten enough Greek food to last me the rest of my life. And if I never have to bang my head while getting in the passenger side of an Audi, that will be just fine with me! I believe I have truly had enough vacation. But we are still here, and I plan to make the most of it.

Now, please don’t get me wrong. I have thoroughly enjoyed this country. The people are wonderful. Most of the traditional Greek dishes are fine if you like food that is mostly on the bland side. Our accommodations have all been between OK and fantastic. With none so awful as to make us want to find another place. And being in this area of the world has given me an even greater appreciation for my terrific life. No place is as wonderful as our home and the view we take for granted daily. Sure, the water is warmer here than in Port Susan Bay. A hell of a lot warmer to be exact! But I’m no more eager to go swimming here than I am at home.

But above all, I miss our friends, our two orange kitties, Andy playing the piano, live music, my kitchen with every convenience known to a cook, and my pillow. I know that might sound strange, the pillow part. Because what constitutes a pillow here can be anything from a bag full of foam that flattens to a pancake, or a pillowcase containing 2½ average sized pillows. And of course, the pillows are never the same from place to place. So, just as you get used to one, it’s time to trundle on down the road.

But today is another day. The sun is shining. There is a lovely breeze. We enjoyed a nice breakfast. This morning’s laundry that I washed in our bathroom sink is drying on the rack provided for just that purpose on our private deck. Andy has made and drunk his second cappuccino. And we are currently munching on mixed nuts. So, am I ready to go home? Yes, I am. But first, a bit more Greece.

Since I don’t think we will ever make it back to this ancient country, while I am still here, I plan to make the most of it. Because I realize the problem is not the country. The reality is that I’m getting older, and traveling is not as easy for me as even 10 years ago. So, for the remaining days we have in Greece, I am going to put on my “way-back” shoes, and travel like I am still young and eager for whatever adventure presents itself.

Part of the reason I wanted to visit Greece in the first place, was because this part of the world is widely referred to as the Cradle of Western civilization. And the Birthplace of Democracy largely due to the impact of its cultural and political achievements during the 5th and 4th centuries BC on the rest of the then-known European continent. I wanted to feel grounded again like I did in Turkey. To feel, once more, that I was a citizen of the world, not just a citizen of the United States.      

It has been very hard for me to witness the changes happening recently to our democratic country. And as much as I would like to blame it all on certain politicians, past and present, it’s not all their fault. Too many Americans with only their own agendas in mind. Who seem to care nothing about anything or anyone but themselves. And not enough people, me included, willing to make sacrifices on behalf of others. I could easily volunteer at the Stanwood food bank, but I don’t. I could help at our local elementary school, but I don’t. I throw money at various charities, but that’s the easy way out. What I’m saying is that I could do more to help others. I think visiting the place where great minds examined their surroundings and decided things needed to change for the better may have influenced me to strive a bit harder towards becoming a better me. I will never be a scholar or a leader that changes the world. Of course, I won’t. But if I can make even one person’s life better, then the great Greek philosophers Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle can take part of the credit. Having placed my feet on stones that they might have stepped on is heady stuff. Hopefully I can take some of their hopes for a better world back with me. At least, I’m sure going to work harder to that end. But enough philosophizing Patti. Back to your trip report.  

After deciding we were a bit hungry at 2:00 in the afternoon, we went to our local supermarket and bought another loaf of bread, some salami, cheese, mayo, and a tomato and I made us small, open-face sandwiches. Just enough sustenance to get us by until dinner.

We were advised by the owners of our apartment to eat dinner at a wonderful fish restaurant right in our own little town. I’ll let you know later how that turns out. But for now, I’m going out on our lovely and shaded balcony to start a new book. Meanwhile Andy has taken his Kindle down to the beach to park his butt up close and personal to the Aegean Sea.

When it was time for dinner, we headed into Pefkohori. With handwritten directions from our host, “the General”, and a neighbor, we blithely took on the challenge of finding this fine dining establishment on the water. Well, as with all towns in Greece, except when you are on quote unquote main roads, you are basically driving up or down very narrow roads. And of course, once we got off the main road through town, we were once again on donkey paths with every other “road” being one way. And because there are graffiti artists here too, some of the directional signs were obscured by paint. Not a great deal of help to us hapless tourists. So, down towards the water didn’t work the first time. While trying to find a way to turn around and start over, we got into the upper part of town. Again, a warren of shrinking streets (and I use the term “streets” loosely} until Andy found a place to pull over and seek the assistance of Google Maps. (A God send BTW! Well, at least most of the time!) Then down through the labyrinth to the main road. Then follow the little blue dot to our destination.

Of course, we made a wrong turn that led us to Google Maps alternate route. Which just happened to be the town folk’s favorite area to walk or stroll in the evening. So, now we find ourselves driving on this cement path that is basically used at night for la passeggiata. At least that’s what walking or strolling in the evening is called in Italy. Of course, there were a few other cars parked along the way. But I truly felt like an ugly American forcing stroller pushing families, arm and arm old couples, young children playing with balls, etc. to the side so that we could drive and park right by the restaurant.

If only I could have explained that we were sorry for any inconvenience we had caused them, but unfortunately, we were currently completely clueless as to where we were and what we were doing. And darned right lucky to be where we were with both the car, both of us, and the pedestrians unscathed. With the hope that the same could be said when we got back to our apartment. But no one would have understood or cared.

People simply aren’t as prickly here as in America. They don’t have the same feelings about their territory versus everyone’s turf. None of the beaches seem to be privatized. There are people walking, sunbathing, swimming, and snorkeling at all times of day on the beach in front of the villa apartment where we are staying. Of course, most of the fancy homes, apartment buildings, villas, hotels, etc. are gated. So, there must be some concern about unwanted people on their private property. But the beaches are open to everyone.

After a wonderful seafood dinner, it was back to our apartment. After a short while reading, it was deemed appropriate to scurry off to bed. So, that’s just what we did.

Monday, October 9, 2023

Woke to a few clouds in the sky. Had breakfast, did dishes, wrote for a while, Andy went for a walk on the beach, and then it was time for another adventure. Our last one in this area. So, at about 1:30 pm we left our apartment and headed up to Mountain Holomantas. And the first thing we noticed was that fall was starting to show itself at higher elevations. And this ride took us through one of the most beautiful parts of Greece we had seen so far.   

The mountain range held incredible beauty with breathtaking views in all directions. Imposing trees grew high up on the slopes, with oaks on the lower reaches, and chestnut, pine, fir, and beech higher up. The thing that was most interesting was that there appeared to be no old growth timber. All the trunks had narrow circumferences and were of uniform size. Of course, this is a managed forest, so all these trees may have been planted at the same time. There was also little to no undergrowth. And here and there, great piles of cut wood. And apparently in ancient times, this area was well known for the quality of its timber, much prized by shipbuilders.

Also, from what we learned about this area, there are many species of wild animals and birds in these mountains. We unfortunately didn’t witness any animals while we were driving around. But the area is reported to be the home to amazing fauna. Pretty nice flora too. The highest peak being 3800 feet.  

And as we had previously experienced several times while driving around Greece, some roads were closed with little to no warning or explanation. Just blocked off.  So, we were forced to find a way around the roadblocks. Which of course led to more adventures.

One such closure took us right through the narrow alleys of the small hill town of Arena. But eventually we found what looked like a main road. So, we eagerly followed it to wherever it led if it wasn’t through another maze! So, once again we escaped with our lives and our car intact. Our nerves, not so much. But they could easily be repaired with a good stiff drink!

Along the way we stopped for an early dinner, then back to Pefkohori and our cozy apartment. Another fine day in Greece.

My thought on the way down out of the mountain was most enlightening. At home I wanted to, and do, live close to salt water and look up into the mountains. If I lived in Greece, I would want to live up on Mountain Holomantas and look down at the sea.

Tuesday, October 10, 2023 – Alexakis Hotel & Spa, Loutra Ypatis 

Took our time getting ready this morning because we didn’t have to check out and be on the road until 10:30 am. So, leisurely breakfast, followed by loading the car, paying our bill, and saying goodbye and thank-you to “the General”. It truly had been a quiet and slow-down 5 days. After the hectic past 3½ weeks, we really needed to relax and kick back before the last frantic 3 days of our trip. The drama of me trying to get everything we brought plus what we purchased in Greece in our suitcases. Finding the car rental place so we could give them back their car so they could in turn foist it off on the next unsuspecting moron. Then hire a cab to drive us to our last night’s accommodation. Then reserve a cab for the next morning to take us to the airport by 7:30 am. Etc., etc. None of these things are fun. But necessary. But today’s drive from Pefkohori to Loutra Ypatras was splendid and made the whole day worthwhile. 

Beautiful scenery the entire 400 k (about 250 miles) to our 2^nd to the last night in Greece. Great roads, incredibly up-close views of Mt. Olympus, and always the sea never far away. (Would have taken pictures, but with my point and click camera, there is no way to capture an entire mountain range in one snapshot.)

Interesting fact:  Where we are used to giving a range of mountains a name and then singling out and naming individual peaks, “Mt. Olympus” is an entire mountain range with 52 peaks and many deep gorges.

But soon we were checking in to our hotel.

While waiting for our turn to check in, I heard the concierge ask the 2 ladies who had arrived just before us where they were from. America and the state of Washington. I must have gasped a bit, because the next thing I knew, they had both turned around as I explained that we too were from Washington state. Then one of their husbands came in carrying luggage and I explained that we lived on Camano Island. Turns out the gentleman had lived on Camano until he was three years old. Small world. The couple now live in Gig Harber and the single woman in Tacoma. We were practically neighbors! We talked for a bit and wished each other safe travels, then up to our room to sit on our balcony for a while and take in the late afternoon air and enjoy the view of the Oiti’s Mountains.

Then off to the nearby taverna for dinner. Carbonara for me and fried squid and French fries for Andy. Both were delicious. And then early to bed for us both. We needed to be on the road by 8:00 am in order to turn in our car by 10:30. And where we had to turn in our car was close to the airport, but not easily accessible.

Wednesday, October 11, 2023 – Nathaniel Athens Airport, Spata

Well, this turned out to be a “live & learn” kind of day. When we arrived at our hotel the day before, we were told that breakfast would start at 8:00 am. I told the very nice lady behind the desk that we would be leaving before breakfast. She then informed us that we could come early to breakfast. OK, so this morning we arrived at 7:30, and there were already 2 parties at tables. So, 8:00 am for breakfast is an arbitrary number, kind of like speed limits on the freeways at home? Apparently so. Which in this case worked to our benefit. Because we were due to turn in our car at the car rental place 216 k away.

Anyway, after a nice breakfast we were on the road by 7:55 am. Good roads and wonderful scenery. In fact, we drove along the base of Mr. Olympus with the sea just on the other side of the tollway for quite some time. So, nothing could have been nicer than that for our last real travel day in Greece. So, as they say, smooth sailing until we merged onto the road that would lead us to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport. Here we came to a complete stop.

Then 2 lanes to get our car to the toll booth with several available pay stations. Then a mass exodus from the toll booths back into 2 lanes. And I am here to tell you, politeness was not on display this morning for these drivers. Obviously, they wanted to get to the airport as badly as we did. But eventually we followed the other driver’s lead by bullying our way through the 8 lanes of hostile drivers all wanting to merge into two lanes. But we made it through with our lives and car intact and were once again heading toward the airport.

Unlike every other airport where we have rented a car, there was absolutely no signage for rental cars. Either hiring one or returning one. I saw one sign for long-term parking, but for those of us trying to return a rental car, well, basically we were – – – – out-of-luck. But we did find the airport arrival and departure area, which at this point did us no good at all! So, Andy pulled over, did a Google map search, got us somehow turned around, and headed in the right direction.

Then we had to pass the office on the main road, turn left when it was possible, turn around, and get on the frontage one lane road that led us ultimately to our destination. God, what a hassle! But we were met by the car rental guy, who took one look at the car, and wrote “CAR OK” on our receipt. I thought about telling him that “CARR OK” was not apt in this situation. But why confuse the poor guy since he had been so kind as to not look at the car too closely and order us a taxi. When the taxi arrived, we headed to Nathaniel Athens Airport. Which BTW, was the name given to our next over-night stay. 

When I was making all the bookings for this trip, I searched under “hotels close to the Athens airport”. Booking.com came up with this listing which sounded good at the time. Wrong! But, in my defense, judging from the name Nathaniel Athens Airport, I assumed (and you know the definition of “assume” as well as I do) that it would be adjacent to the airport the same way hotels are close to the Sea-Tac Airport. Wrong! We were close, but not THAT close! I should have paid a great deal more attention when the description was for an apartment. And an apartment in a nearby town. Not right at the airport. With no bloody restaurants close by. And no one to let us in to our apartment until 1:00 pm at the earliest.

So, here we are at our “apartment” at 11:20 am, with all our luggage and no place to even park our butts. But it could have been worse. It could have been raining or we could have been left to wait in an area with no shade. But luckily, it wasn’t raining, and we had the covered parking for the building to keep us from sunburn. And yes, I had spoken with whomever answered the phone at the phone number listed on my reservation confirmation. But as she ever so nicely put it – right on the confirmation it plainly states that someone will be available to let you in to the apartment between 1:00 pm and 11:00 pm. So, once again I was reminded that I need pay greater attention to details when booking anything involved with travel.

Finally, the cleaning lady for the previous occupants finished. So, she gave us the keys to both the front door to the building and the apartment. What she failed to provide us with was which of the many apartments was ours. So, I got back on the phone again, and finally was given the exact location of our room. And into a lovely apartment we entered. Spacious, clean, modern, with two bedrooms and a very nice balcony.

But by now it’s after 2:00 pm and we are hungry. And nary a restaurant nearby. But someone, probably another unsuspecting tourist, had left several menus in the apartment from delivery eating establishments in the area. Most only in Greek, so no help there. But there was one with some English on it. Goody’s, the McDonalds of Greece.

So, after not finding a phone number on their brochure, we went online on our computer to order. After 45 minutes and several unsuccessful attempts to order online, we gave up. But persistent Andy figured out how to order using his cell phone. (Hunger will do that to a person.) (And kicking and screaming, we had been forced to learn how to use Goody’s phone application from the simple realization that it was either figure it out or starve!)     

So, 30 minutes later we had a crispy chicken sandwich (OK), a regular chicken sandwich (OK), onion rings (ghastly), and a chicken Caesar salad for dinner in our fridge.

Well, let me be the first to advise you to never order a Caesar salad from Goody’s. And McDonalds, please be assured that Goody’s will never be a worthy competitor. 

Then it was for me to pack as much as I could tonight, read until about 10:00, and to bed for both of us looking forward to sweet dreams about sleeping in our own bed, with our own pillows, and our kitties by our sides. 

Of course, the going to bed part didn’t go as well as it could have. The top sheet on our bed wasn’t even wide enough to cover the width of the bed. Much less with any material left over to drape over the sides. Or tuck in the bottom for that matter. So, we took the top sheet from the bed in the second bedroom and tried, rather unsuccessfully I might add, to produce a make-shift top sheet for our bed. I know it seems inconceivable that sheets etc. should be a problem, but it wasn’t our first adventure with inadequate bedding in Greece, but it was certainly our last!

October 12, 2023 – Athens Greece to Camano Island, Washington USA

Well, after a night of not sleeping well for either of us because of bedding concerns and a couple of mosquitoes hovering over us all night long, plus anxiety (at least for me) about 1) will the alarm on Andy’s phone really go off, 2) can I do the last minute packing and get all our stuff in our suitcases, 3) will the taxi we hired the day before actually be at our apartment at 7:15 am as planned, 4) will everything go smoothly at check-in at the Athens airport, 5) will we make our connecting flight in Istanbul without having to run from one gate to the next and missing the plane anyway, etc. etc., we survived.

From all of this I have come to realize that the one thing that bothers me most about getting older, besides looking more and more like my mother when I catch sight of myself in a mirror, is the anxiety I feel about things that 20 years ago wouldn’t have bothered me in the least! Fast cars coming around us from other lanes drives me wacko. I almost panic on scary roads that never would have bothered me even a few years ago. I worry when Andy is on the roads late at night without me. That sort of thing. Really, what’s that all about?! Because today was fine. Everything went smoothly. No problems at any level. Even after collecting our car from the long-term car lot at Sea-Tac at 6:30 pm, the freeways were busy, but there were no terrible slowdowns. So, why did I have to go through the worry trauma when I couldn’t have done anything about any of the above concerns in the first place? If it’s just me, then knock it off Patti! If it’s a normal aging “thing”, then darn, that’s not fair. Aging is hard enough without unnecessary worry problems. Oh well, it is what it is. And I am who I am.  

And very glad to be back home with the realization that we were so lucky to have been able to take one more overseas adventure. And were still alive to tell the tale. And that we had arrived safely back home, eager to see our friends, been welcomed home by our kitties, and ready to get back to our wonderful lives.

I won’t bore you with the details of our travel from Athens to Seattle except to tell you that we took off from Athen’s airport at roughly 11:00 am on the 12^th and landed at Sea-Tac at 5:30 pm on the 12^th. How could we have traveled 6,161 miles in such a short time? (Of course, it didn’t feel like a short time. Actually, it felt interminable. But isn’t that always the joy of air travel and just part of the deal? Yes, of course it is!) 

And for the first time since we moved to Camano Island, I was able to see our wonderful paradise from the air. I was on the right side of the 787 with a window seat. As we were making our descent, we were over the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the Central Cascades Region. I had no idea there were so many lakes. And such a wide breadth of mountains and valleys. What a breathtaking view from our plane. Then to my delight, Mr. Baker and Glacier Peak came into view. We’re home!!! And because we were landing from the north, I had a great view of Camano and Whidby and all points west, south, and north.

It never ceases to amaze me how much water surrounds our dry land. Of course, we know it’s there. But to see it from above really brings the whole landscape into perspective. And I couldn’t help thinking what a marvelous introduction to the Pacific NW for first time visitors to our fair land. They must have thought they had reached nirvana. Which of course, they had!

So, what did I take away from our visit to Greece:

1. The land is beautiful. And the ancient sites are worth every penny of the trip. The sea shore seems to be everywhere. In fact, Greece has the longest coastline on the Mediterranean Basin and the 11th longest coastline in the world at 8,498 miles in length, featuring many islands, of which 227 are inhabited. All this, and Greece is 1.3 times smaller than the state of Washington.
2. The people are friendly, helpful, appear very happy, and proud of their country.
3. Even though Greece experienced a horrific economic crisis in 2007-2008, they appear to be on the mend and doing well now.
4. The food was not nearly as good as I thought it would be. Very limited menu and quite tasteless. But far cheaper than anywhere in America. And huge portions.
5. Never rent a car with a manual transmission in a land that is 70-80% mountainous!
6. Expect high humidity and bugs if you travel during the summer, September, or October.
7. If you don’t like dogs and/or cats – don’t go to Greece. They are everywhere.
8. The highways, freeways, and toll roads are fabulous. Well signed and with very few cars and trucks. And great public services along the way. We could not have run out of gas or gone without a toilet (all clean BTW) had we tried.
9. Side “roads” (or so they are called) in villages, towns, cities, etc. are narrow, not well signed, and originally designed for 4 legged critters. They are scary, ruthless, potholed, brick, stone, uneven pavement car, truck, and pedestrian hating necessities. If I never have to even be a passenger on one of these nerve-wracking roads again, it will be just fine with me. And for those of you who know me, you know I love to drive. I still enjoy and feel comfortable driving our car and truck even when we are towing our trailer. But I did not take the wheel once while we were in Greece. Even though we had paid extra money for me, being over 75, to help with the driving. There was simply no way I was going to get anywhere near the driver’s seat! Just too much for me at this time of my life.

And finally, I am so glad we went to Greece. If you ever get the chance, do not hesitate. Even with all the inconveniences and trepidations I experienced, I am so glad we went. We saw so many incredible things. Placed our feet on the same stones and paths that the ancients traveled. Slept in century old dwellings that had been modernized so they were fit for today’s visitors. Learned how hard the people of Greece have worked to pull themselves out of poverty. And how gracious they are towards visitors. Forever we will have wonderful (and sometimes less than pleasant) memories to talk about and laugh about as we continue into our golden years.

And again, with this trip, I was reminded that people everywhere are the same. That the average person, regardless of their ethnicity, the color of their skin, their religious persuasion, etc. simply wants a good life for themselves, their children, their relatives, their neighbors, etc. And to be allowed to live a peaceful, productive, and fulfilled life.

I firmly believe that no person should ever think of themselves as merely a citizen of a particular country. But rather, we should all consider ourselves and live our lives as stewards of planet earth. And appreciate and value each other for the diversity that makes every living person special and worthy of respect.

And yes, I know, life is never going to be that simple. There are just too many crazies for whom money and power are not only desirable, but addictive. Who live their entire lives showing no concern for how their actions can and usually do adversely impact everyone around them.

But I still have hope for a brighter future. Which as I learned from our visit to Greece, had been the dream of people far smarter than I am for generations. And just how lucky I had been to visit the place where they too envisioned a better future for everyone.     

So, thank you for coming along with us on our latest adventure. May each of you live the life you desire, full of whatever brings you peace and love. Happy trails!

   

PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE

Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.

Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.

Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 4 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 3, and 5. 

So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.   

Sunday, October 1, 2023 – Theatro Hotel Odysseon, Kalambaka (second day)

We woke early even though we had set Andy’s phone alarm for 7:00 am. We had told the hotel concierge that we wanted breakfast at 8:00 because our tour bus would be picking us up at 9:00 am for our visit to the Meteora monasteries. All went as planned and soon we were in our small 28 passenger van heading up into the rocks. BTW, the Meteora rocks begins directly behind our hotel. But first we had to stop at a couple hotels to pick up other riders.

Our tour guide was a young man named Dimitrious. His command of the English language was impressive. Also, he had a great sense of humor. To the point where a few of us were internally groaning at some of his comments. But it was all fun and the facts he spoke about this area were very informative.

The Holy Monastery of Saint Nicholas of Anapafsas or Agios Nikolaos is the first active Monastery we encountered.

The monastery was founded at the end of the 14th century. For the name Anapafsas there are numerous interpretations, two of which are the most popular. The first one is that the name Anapafsas was attributed to one of the monastery’s benefactors, while the second explanation has to do with the monastery’s position. 

Agios Nikolaos Monastery was the first monastery on the way to the other monasteries and probably served the pilgrims as a resting place before continuing onward and upward. Resting translates into Greek anapafsis, so Agios Nikolaos of Anapafsas literally translates into Saint Nicholas the one who rests you.

Well, there was no rest for all but two of our group at this first stop. Our guide told us there were many steps (about 140) up to this monastery, so another lady about my age from Mexico and I decided we would let our husbands enjoy the site and take the pictures of this first monastery. So, while we enjoyed talking to each other on a shaded bench, both our husbands made the climb and lived to tell the tale.

Part way up to the monastery on foot.

Looking up at the monastery.

Getting closer. Almost there.

Looking across the valley.

Looking down on the parking lot.

Then it was back in the van and toward our next destination. But along the way we stopped to take pictures. I was having trouble getting my new camera to work properly (user error), so many of the sights I thought I was capturing were not recorded properly. So, we decided that the next day we would drive up into the Meteora in our rental car and this time get it right! But all the pictures from both days are included in this day’s post. So, some general pictures of the area.

Two happy people along the way enjoying the view. Notice the skirt on the lady. In order to visit a monastery, women must wear long skirts and have their shoulders and heads covered. No sleeveless shirts for men or shorts either. So, not total discrimination towards women. Just required respect shown for these sacred dwellings and their inhabitants. Made total sense to us.

Close up of the happy travelers. And why not? This is one of the most glorious spots in the world. And to be able to see this wonderland firsthand, makes us exceedingly lucky. We are well and truly blessed.

On our way we got a good look at Holy Trinity Monastery which is not open to the public.

Holy Trinity from another angle.

The second monastery, The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron is the largest and oldest of the original 20 monasteries built on the top of these amazing rock formations. It was named the monastery which remains “suspended in the air” because of the cliff formation on top of which it was built. The Great Meteoro Monastery or “Megalo Meteoron” was founded in the 14th century by Saint Athanasios the Meteorite. The monastery would normally have been open to the public even though it was Sunday, but apparently it would not only be closed today, but also tomorrow for a religious holiday. So, the 300 steps up and 300 steps back that I might possibly have considered, I don’t have to feel guilty about not completing. But we got a good view of the monastery from the parking area, and it was still amazing to see this colossal monastery perched on its rock.

Looks like the monastery is on flat ground from this position. Right? Nope.

Four monasteries in this picture. Bottom left corner – Rousanou. Just above Rousanou on the left bottom – Saint Nicholas. Top middle – Great Meteoron. And last but not least, far right – Varlaam.

Varluum on the left, Great Meteoron on the right.

Great Meteoron from below.

Closer view.

Varlaam, the third monastery we visited on our guided tour was accessible to me. Yes, there were plenty of stairs (around 140 again), but somehow, I managed to climb and descend the stairs with only a tiny bit of assistance (balance issues) from Andy. And what a wonderful and exciting vista from every window and balcony in the entire monastery. And more tourists than we had encountered so far anywhere in Greece. Herds of foreigners, all being drawn to the history and beauty of this amazing place.

For the fourth and final monastery of our tour, we descended a very long trail of wooden stairs and a dried mud path to the Holy Monastery of Rousanou. This monastery probably received its name from the first hermit-monk who settled on the rock in around the fourteenth century. The monastery is one single building occupying the entire available surface of the cliff. It creates the impression that the building was carved out from the cliff as the extension of the rock itself!

It was built on three main levels in the 16th century, in what is believed to be an effort to increase the available space inside. The main cathedral was founded at the end of the 16th century and was decorated thirty years later by a monk who was a very skillful artist and lived at the monastery.

Compared to other rocks where monasteries were built, Rousanou has a lower elevation, which makes it more accessible. The monastery suffered severe damage during World War II. In 1988 it became a convent and today more than 15 sister nuns live in this small and cozy nunnery.

This is a very small monastery and very hard to photograph because of its location. But it was interesting to visit.

By the time we had visited the Meteora and all its marvelous sights and sites, I was ready to head for the barn. But ever so proud of myself for having actually managed to walk to and from 2 of the 3 monasteries we were able to visit without having an aid car involved. In fact, this whole trip has changed my attitude about my aging body. I am actually physically capable of doing a lot more than I had expected. Of course, some things are still not possible. But the old gal can still enjoy many of the offerings this amazing country has to offer. And I am taking advantage of every minute of feeling younger and more able than anticipated.

But I still don’t like the food as much as I thought I would. But you can’t have everything. Even the trips we took to Italy where the dishes were universally wonderful, I yearned for variety. I think we American cooks don’t give ourselves enough credit. We cook from the cuisine of many countries. And while we are at it, we blend spices, and change and adapt flavors that never get changed in their countries of origin. So, hurray to all of us who cook and create memories and traditions using the bones of favorite recipes from our own and other cultures and make these dishes our own. (And often, much better than the original if I may be so bold as to say so!)

And of course, just after I wrote the sentences about food above, we headed off to dinner. And this time, the food and ambiance at the taverna were wonderful. Plus, there was live music. A guitar playing singer and another older gentleman on the bouzouki. To our uneducated ears, the music sounded how one would expect traditional Greek music to sound. And the gentlemen certainly appeared old enough to have been playing these same tunes for 50-60 years. Plus, if there was any enthusiasm in playing this music, it certainly was not on display for the public. Taciturn might be the right term for these 2 old guys. The guitar player did smile once after an unusually enthusiastic applause. But other than that, another good word for these musicians would be dour. Nevertheless, it was nice to hear live music in a lively outdoor setting. And the Carbonaro we shared was fabulous!

Then we went back to our room to plan our next day’s adventure.

Monday, October 2, 2023

After a good night’s sleep, we had breakfast again at 8:00 am so we could beat the rush up into the Meteora to do some selective picture taking. It felt like fall this morning so we each grabbed a sweater. Then we proceeded up into the land of rocks and monasteries.

Although the monasteries had just been built this morning, geologically speaking, the rocks that support the monasteries were believed to have been formed some 60 million years ago. At that time, the area was submerged under a shallow sea, and layers of sediment, including sand, silt, and clay accumulated over time. These sediments eventually solidified into sedimentary rocks, with sandstone being the dominant rock type in this region. And to this day, these rocks are incredible to witness, both from right under foot and viewed from further afield.

After taking our pictures of the rocks and monasteries as close as we could get without paying more entrance fees, we headed across the valley of the Pinios River (yes, the river that overflowed from Storm Daniel on September 7, 2023) and up into the Pindus Mountains. (If you care to look for Meteora on a map of Greece, it is located near the town of Kalambaka at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly near the Pinios river and the Pindus Mountains.)

And what a lovely ride it was. A little difficult to map out the route because several of the roads and bridges were closed because of the flood. But we made our way into the mountains and through several peaceful little villages.

Then we turned around and decided to drive for a while through the plains along the Pinios River. But driving next to and just above the river was sad to witness. Rushing water had played havoc with hillsides, orchards, corn fields, and basically anything that got in its way. At one point in a lower dip in the road, we turned around because heavy construction vehicles were busy restoring the roadbed. Apparently, a small creek had become a major river during the storm. And oh, what a mess it made. And the riverbed of the Pinios River itself had obviously broadened during the flood. And along its banks where normally water didn’t flow, trees and vegetation had been stripped. And many of the roads we travelled on still held piles of rocks and other detritus.

Some pictures from the area.

Notice the small amount of water that usually flows in this river.

But now it was time to retrace part of our route and try and find a way back across the river.

Since we were in a rural farming area, where I’m sure many tourists would not bother exploring, there were no signs that indicated which roads or bridges would be closed ahead. Being local farmers, it was assumed we would already know which routes were unavailable.

But we had plenty of gas, time, and a burning desire to see everything there was to see, so, unphased we made it back to Kalambaka unscathed. Then pizza for a late lunch and back to our room for me to write and Andy to go down to the lovely, shaded area underneath our balcony to finish his current book.

I told him he might come back to the room, and I would be in a prone position. And that is indeed how I planned for him to find me! So, adieu for now.

Well, 5 minutes after I lay down, he walked through the door. Like they say, timing is everything. So, while the sun was already over the yardarm by an hour, we decided to go down to the bar and have a before dinner drink. And low and behold, they had Tanqueray gin. No vermouth of course, so for the first time on our trip I enjoyed gin over rocks. Which of course I enjoyed immensely. (Thanks, Mark, for the inspiration to simply order Tanqueray on the rocks.) (With a twist would have been nice. But who knows what kind of “twist” it would have been. Better safe than sorry!)

After sipping our drinks at a very leisurely pace, we decided it was time to go to dinner. So, back to the same taverna for moussaka.

Now, I basically have never liked moussaka. But, deciding that it is probably one of the foremost dishes associated with Greek food, I decided I really should eat it at least once while we were here. And once again, I was reminded that some dishes should be allowed to evolve into something a bit different and at the same time a whole lot better! OK, there was a potato and eggplant layer. So far, so good. But the ground meat layer tasted weird to me, and the bechamel sauce was, let’s see, how should I put this – ghastly. Basically, flour paste with no flavor whatsoever. Andy being the great guy that he is, let me off the hook. I ate the salad that came with the moussaka, while he finished off the main dish.

Then it was back to our room for a bit of reading before lights out. While we were out, the maid had changed our top sheet and light blanket for a full-on thick comforter in its own sheet like covering. And no option to go back to sheet and light blanket. Why, you might ask. Well, it had been fairly cool that morning and I guess the hotel felt we might freeze overnight. So, in order to get any sleep at all under this thick comforter, we were forced to turn on the air-conditioner. Sometimes, I truly cannot understand the workings of other people’s minds. Of course, I can’t. I can’t even figure out my own mind most of the time!

Tuesday, October 3, 2023 – Helen’s Little Castle, Thessaloniki

After a quiet and lovely breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to our hotel nestled right up against the rock formation called Meteora. I will miss eating breakfast with the rocks within view. But it was time to push on to our next destination.

When booking a vacation where you can’t see the location beforehand, it makes every new accommodation a surprise. The only thing I am sure of at this point is that I must have booked our apartment in Thessaloniki under the influence of a larger than usual martini. Because, as we were trying to find our “castle” driving up and down streets so narrow that a cow would have had trouble not touching the walls of the buildings on both sides, I vowed never ever again to be responsible for the mess I got us into today. But before I go any further with our present situation, I want to tell you about our drive here. It was lovely.

Through valleys, up hillsides, down again, and through farm country. A great view of the whole of Mount Olympus and even signs along the road warning us of bear crossings. When was the last time you saw a warning sign with a bear on it? (Andy thinks it’s a hoax. And I think he might just be right!) There was even one sign that I saw that warned of wild horses crossing the roads. And the roads in question were major 130k maximum roads. Imagine hitting a bear or a horse at 130k (a little over 80 mph). But luckily, there were not many cars on the road, and no bears, deer, horses, wild boars, or cows were in evidence, so driving was easy. Until of course, we hit Thessaloniki.

The metropolis of Thessaloniki has a population of over a million and is the largest city in the northern part of Greece. It is actually the second most populated city in all of Greece. Athens being the largest, at a colossal 4 million inhabitants in the greater Athens area. The Port of Thessaloniki is also one of the largest seaports in the Eastern Mediterranean. It is considered the gateway Port to the Balkans and Southeast Europe.

And according to Helen’s son, when we mentioned how difficult it had been to drive the roads, find the castle, and find parking, he informed us of three facts about living in this huge metropolis and especially where we were in the oldest and original part of the city. Too many people, too many cars, and too narrow roads. (As if we hadn’t figured this out for ourselves!) What he failed to mention was that cars shouldn’t be allowed in this area at all. Only donkeys! However, it was nice to hear that my take on the situation was spot on. But once again on this trip, I was almost in tears before my feet once again touched terra firma. (I’m almost sure the car rental folks will notice that the passenger side floor is indented from my trying to apply non-existent brakes on my side. But I’ll deal with that problem when the time comes.) (For now, I just want to live to tell the tale.) Because some of the twists and turns finding our hotel were so narrow and crazy, that they required Andy to back up, go a bit forward and turn, back again, etc. until he could proceed. And all of this in the area of the city within the remaining Byzantine walls that I had especially wanted to see. Well, we saw the walls all right. Absolutely too close and personal for my liking. And because we were still looking for our hotel, there was no time or place to pull over and take a picture. So, you will have to take my word for the fact that walls from centuries ago still remained in this ancient part of town.

The main construction phases of the wall were undertaken during the 3rd, 4^th, and 5th century AD, while the parts that have been better preserved belong to the Byzantine period, particularly the time of Emperor Theodosius (4th century AD). Overall, of the 8,000m of Byzantine walls about 4,300m remain today. The walls were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list because of their outstanding Byzantine architecture. (One of the reasons I was so eager to see the walls.)

What I had failed to consider while I was blissfully planning where to stay in this town is that if the walls had been built to protect the city as late as the 5^th century AD, the roads in and out obviously came into existence at roughly the same time! What was I thinking? So, this entire driving to our new digs’ fiasco was my fault! So, as God is my witness, I AM NEVER BOOKING ANOTHER DRIVING TRIP THROUGH A HILLY OLD-WORLD COUNTRY. IF THE COUNTRY HAS HILLS, I’M BOOKING A TOUR! NO MORE RENTING A CAR. ESPECIALLY WITH A MANUAL TRANSMITION! I CAN’T STAND THE PRESSURE. GIVE ME A BUS WITH A DRIVER AND I WILL GO ANYWHERE. BUT NEVER WILL I PUT US THROUGH THIS KIND OF TORTURE AGAIN. And yes, you are right, Holland would be OK. The highest points in that flat country are the road overpasses. The country is basically under sea level. And yes, I called the country Holland not the Netherlands, because the two couples we met from the Netherlands, referred to their country as Holland. So, who am I to correct the natives!

Speaking of meeting people on this trip, we have truly enjoyed several wonderful conversations with people from all over the world. But I must say, it is very embarrassing for me when someone for whom English is their second or possibly fifth language has a better command of my native language than I do. When they are finding the right word and having to explain the word to me, I feel darn right stupid! But I just nod my head as if I knew all along what they were talking about and go on from there.

And FYI, there is one thing that every couple we have met agrees to and is concerned about. In every case, it is universally felt that the entire world is going to hell in a hand basket. It’s not just our country that is a mess. It is seemingly worldwide. So, before this trip I was concerned about being classified as one of those ugly Americans. But no one has in any way made us feel bad or embarrassed about the political turmoil we as a nation are experiencing. Apparently, political upheaval is happening everywhere. And with most of the Greek people we have encountered, they are at first a bit reticent. But by the time we have conversed a bit, they seem to realize that we are pretty much OK people. In fact, one waiter told us he was not used to people being as nice to him as we were. 

Well, as I am writing this afternoon, we are firmly ensconced in our newly refurbished apartment. Andy is out on our balcony reading and after demanding half of our 1 remaining can of Alpha beer, my nerves have settled down, and my heart rate is back to normal. But I have already declared that the next time I go anywhere in our car, it will be the day after tomorrow, and we will be on our way out of this place!

If all goes as planned, we will be picked up at the bottom of the rock path we are on, that the good people of this town refer to as a street, by some kind of conveyance that will take us from Thessaloniki to Mt. Athos and our Ammouliani cruise. I sincerely have my doubts that they will find us in this maze, but a girl can dream.

In the meantime, before dinner, I am going to lose myself in my book. Perhaps with my thoughts directed elsewhere, I will stop beating myself up for booking us into a small 3 room apartment in the middle of the second largest city in this country. And in an area where cars shouldn’t be permitted and only donkeys should be allowed to traverse the rock paths!

And should you wonder – Andy is doing just fine. Through all the turmoil of finding our room, he remained cool as a cucumber while his crazy wife went almost catatonic. Again! The man deserves a metal.

Then down the hill to dinner at the restaurant Stafylos. Caeser salad and fried zucchini for me and lamb souvlaki for Andy. Then we went back to our room to get an early to bed because the next morning we had to be at the bottom of our street at 6:30 am.

Wednesday, October 4, 2023

Up at 5:45 am so that we could be ready by 6:30 for today’s excursion. So, breakfast, as it was, was pretty darn simple. Instant coffee, a slice of processed cheese, a slice of pressed ham, and a roll each that we had snagged from our dinner the night before. But it filled our tummies, so what more could we ask?

Anyway, the nice young man who would be taking us from Thessaloniki to Mt. Athos and our Ammouliani cruise, was on time and only about a block from where we thought he would find us. But at 6:40 in the morning, it wasn’t very hard for him to spot us, and us to spot a van going backwards in an alley close by. So, having ascertained that he wasn’t someone out to murder us or hold us hostage, and we weren’t waiting in the street to accost people driving vans, we jumped in and were on our way to pick up the next adventurers. Who, lucky for us, turned out to be a delightful middle-aged couple (Michael and Laura) from St. Louis. And, where normally there would be 4 more passengers in this small van, we had plenty of room to spread out and no one had to sit on the driver’s lap. Always a good thing. So, off we went.

It took us about 90 minutes to get to our destination. But the time went fast as the four of us got to know one another. The poor driver tried to inform us of significant sights along the way, but we were simply too busy talking to each other for him to get a word in edgewise. But the land we passed through was lovely. Mainly farmland with agricultural evidence everywhere to be seen. Olive tree groves, fields of planted whatever, large wheat silos, plowed fields, etc. And often off in the distance, window sized views of the sea.

Our destination was the charming little port village of Panagias. Where we boarded a sailing vessel that we were told could accommodate 150 passengers. (And no there were no sails to be seen. We were under power the whole time.)

Since October is considered off season in Greece, we were lucky to be able to take this cruise at all. Apparently, this was the last week the cruise was being offered until next spring. So, there were far less people than in high season, which made it very nice for us.

Our cruise on the Singitic Gulf of the Aegean Sea took us to the base of Mt. Athos, the second highest mountain in Greece. Along the way we were accompanied by a school of dolphins jumping through the wake from our boat. Fantastic!

Mt. Athos is at the end of a large peninsula. And only men are permitted to enter the Mount Athos area, conveniently excluding half the population. For a thousand years no woman has been able to visit Mount Athos or the monasteries except from a distance. That distance means only to be seen by boat. And then no closer than 500 meters from shore.

An Orthodox spiritual center since 1054, Mount Athos has enjoyed an autonomous status since Byzantine times. The ‘Holy Mountain’, which is forbidden to women and children, is also a recognized artistic site. The layout of the monasteries (about 20 of which are presently inhabited by some 1,400 monks) had an influence as far afield as Russia, and its school of painting influenced the history of Orthodox art. Cloaked by beautiful chestnut and other types of Mediterranean forest, the steep slopes of Mount Athos are punctuated by these twenty imposing monasteries and their subsidiary establishments. Covering an area of roughly 110 square miles, the property includes the entire narrow rocky strip of the easternmost of the three peninsulas of Chalcidice which jut into the Aegean Sea.

Farming constitutes an important part of the monks’ everyday life.  The landscape reflects traditional monastic farming practices, which maintain populations of plant species that have now become rare in the region. 

The transformation of an entire mountain into a sacred place makes Mount Athos a unique artistic creation combining the natural beauty of the site with the expanded forms of architectural creation. Moreover, the monasteries of Athos are a veritable conservatory of masterpieces ranging from wall paintings (such as the works by Manuel Panselinos at Protaton Church ca. 1290 and by Frangos Catellanos at the Great Lavra in 1560) to portable icons, gold objects, embroideries, and illuminated manuscripts which each monastery jealously preserves.

Even seen from afar, the monasteries along the coast are massive. And whereas the monasteries in Meteora were beautiful, from afar these structures looked more like fortifications. Which they probably were originally. And of course, without a woman’s touch, well you catch my drift.

Another tidbit we learned. Not only are women not allowed, but the monks also prohibit female animals such as cows and chickens from entering Mount Athos. The only living females allowed on Mount Athos are cats. The cats are needed to catch mice and rats. And the reason for no female of any species being allowed was handed out in a 1406 document: so that the monks may be pure in all respects and “may not defile their eyes with the sight of anything female.”  (My take on this whole female cat exception is perhaps the first recorded example of the “rules apply to all, except to us” syndrome. Where exceptions to any rule can be made if it makes life easier for yourself or your buddies. Or of course, as is all too frequent in today’s political world, there is financial gain to be made) Grrrr. To my mind, you can’t have it both ways boys. Either no females, or all females allowed. And we wonder why humans haven’t evolved into a better, kinder, and smarter species! No doubt in my mind!

Anyway, the cruise took us as close to Mt. Athos as we could get. Then dropped us off on the island of Ammouliani, the region (like our states) of Macedonia’s only inhabited island in the Aegean.  We were on the island for a couple of hours. First to have lunch provided by the tour, and then to lounge in the shade or take a dip in the sea. We chose to park ourselves in chase lounges and Andy to take a short nap and me to wake him up when he started to snore.

Then back on the boat for the 90-minute ride back to Panagias. Then back in the van and back into the teaming city of Thessaloniki and our humble abode.

Both of us were exhausted. Too much sun. To the point that going out for dinner was not appealing in the least. So, we stayed in our room, ate dry ham and cheese sandwiches, and read until we could no longer keep our eyes open. For tomorrow we were on to the last leg of our holiday. Five days in an apartment right on the water to rest and relax before it was back to the Athens airport, with a couple of 1 night stops in between, and our final destination – our wonderful home on Camano Island.

Thursday, October 5, 2023 – Villa Rigas, Pefkohori

Slept like the dead. We were both wiped out from our busy tour day. So, getting a good night’s sleep was exactly what was needed. And it worked. We woke up ready to tackle driving out of Thessaloniki and our tortuous 90-minute drive to Pefkohori.

And no, it wasn’t at all tortuous. Good road and fairly flat.

We stopped in the small beachy tourist town of Kalliphen for lunch, where I had a burger and fries. Real ketchup for my fries and all the rest of the condiments (except pickles) any good old American gal could wish for. Of course, the meat patty was half pork, half beef, but the bun had sesame seeds on it and had been toasted. (You rarely see that anymore in America, which is too bad.) Anyway, the burger was great. Andy had a great meatball gyro. Also, very good. Then we toddled down the road to find Villa Rigas. No problem. GPS got us there and a nice young woman met us at the gate. Along with the requisite number of cats that come with every abode.

Then up one flight to our apartment. Great view of the water from our balcony. And the beach right there for us to swim in any old time we choose. Nice.

And this dwelling being an apartment, we have a kitchen. Breakfast does not come with apartments. But frankly, calling any of the tiny spaces one might consider making anything fancier than a sandwich in, a “kitchen” is really a misnomer. Yes, there is a stove. Great. And a fridge. Very small and not very cold. A double sink with no stopper.  So, how does one do dishes? No spatula. No toaster. No paper towels. No salt and pepper. The list goes on and on.

But what this town does have is a great supermarket.

So, after Andy took a swim while I played lifeguard and read a book on our balcony, we went grocery shopping. A bit difficult since nothing in the grocery stores have English labels, but we managed. So, for dinner tonight, beef and pork patties with sauteed mushrooms, corn on the cobb, and bagged Caesar salad.

And for breakfast tomorrow morning – ham, eggs (going to be fun flipping eggs without a spatula), bread (no toaster) with jam or cheese, yogurt with mixed fresh fruit, cherry juice, and of course coffee from a pod. Life is still mighty fine. Considering!

Friday, October 6, 2023

We both slept really well. Woke when we were ready to get up, with no real plans for today. So, after a nice cup of coffee, I made breakfast. Turned out fine, but I will be extraordinarily glad to be home where conveniences such as spatulas are available and with a stove that I don’t have to figure out the logistics of the appliance in order to heat a burner.

For example: The stove in this apartment is just freakin’ crazy. First you must figure out which flush round button goes with which burner. Then how do you turn the dial? Silly Patti. You press it in, it pops out, you turn the dial to the level of heat you want, not in Fahrenheit or Celsius, but in 1, 1½, 2, 2½, etc. And to make things even more user friendly (not), most of the marks are worn off. But eventually, with Andy’s help, I found a burner that worked.

So, at least we will not starve. And truly, I am very glad to have even a tiny kitchen like this one at my disposal. I am extremely tired of Greek food. I’m totally craving Mexican or Chinese, or good old American cuisine.

After I made us a bread, cheese, ham, and chips lunch, we decided to take a ride around our peninsula. The peninsula of Kassandra is obviously the summer tourist retreat for affluent Greeks and Europeans. Beautiful villas, trendy shops, restaurants on every corner, and grocery stores, the like of which, I wish we had on Camano Island.

But after a bit of driving, I just wanted to head back to our apartment and read. We had been so busy the last 3½ weeks, that I just wanted to take it easy. No pressure, no narrow roads to traverse, no crazy drivers wanting to pass us on a curve at 80 k, and maybe a bit of a nap. That didn’t happen, but a had a chance to finish one book and start another. Then it was time to go to dinner.

On our ride today we had passed a pizza place called Casablanca. Complete with a full sized posterboard picture of Bogie. And since I was hungry for pizza, we chose that place for dinner. Bad choice. It wasn’t that the pizza was bad. It just didn’t have any flavor at all. But as anyone knows who has visited a restaurant for the first time (virtually everyone on this planet), you pays your money and takes your chances. Well, needless to say, we will not be going back to this particular restaurant!

Then back to our apartment, where we met the owner. He spoke very poor English, but seemed to know enough to tell us he was a retired Army General. 

The place we are staying is truly in a wonderful setting. Big yard and the house is situated so that no direct sun comes in the water facing side. So, you can sit on the deck comfortably any time of the day. The owners have their own entrance and live in half of the dwelling. Then there are 2 apartments that they let to tourists. Ours is on the top level. And except for the fact that the kitchen is ridiculously small, there is no dining table inside, and the “L” shaped couch must have been purchased at a deep discount, the bed is comfy and the lighting better than in a couple of the places we have stayed. At least here I don’t feel like I’m in a cave!

Saturday, October 7, 2023

Slept late and woke up much refreshed. After breakfast, Andy decided he needed another cup of coffee. And this time he decided to froth some of the milk we had purchased. And yes, there was a milk frothing gizmo in our kitchen. So, after making the shot, he heated the milk, and used this new implement of mass destruction. Then he took a sip. Seems we had purchased buttermilk. So, down the sink it went. And back to the store for us later in the day.

But for now, I’m going to join Mr. C. on the balcony for a couple of chapters in my latest book.   

At about 1:30 we decided to take a ride around the third peninsula of the Halkidiki.

The particular shape of Halkidiki resembles a small amount of land mass with three fingers pointing into the Aegean Sea. The 3 peninsulas are also referred to as Poseidon’s trident. The peninsulas are called Kassandra, Sithonia, and Mount Athos.

We had previously visited the most eastern peninsula, Mt. Athos, if you can consider seeing the peninsula by boat visiting it. But as I explained previously, the entire peninsula is inhabited by monks. So, we mere peons, especially those of us who were given female organs by the God these men profess to worship (I’m not going to say anymore on this subject), were not allowed to step on this land. Of course, regular men (and I use the term correctly) are also not allowed on this sacred ground unless they have obtained some kind of permit.

Kassandra, the furthest west peninsula is where we are currently stationed. And the one we explored the day before. So, for today’s adventure, we decided to drive around the middle finger, the lovely peninsula of Sithonia. And when I say lovely, I truly mean it! We were even lucky enough to see a jackal slowly loping across the road. He or she seemed totally unconcerned that we were there. And like most of the rural roads in Greece, there were very few cars on the road. Just the way we like it.

Another view of Mt. Athos.

 The gulfs that surround this peninsula are the Singitic Gulf to the east and the Toronean Gulf to the west. With two very large peaks in the center of the peninsula. The landscape is covered with vineyards, forests, grasslands, shrubland, and mountains. With beautiful beaches on the northern, western, and southern part of the peninsula. And very large and lavish villas everywhere you look.

Porto Koufo, where we stopped for a late lunch, is the largest natural harbor in Greece. And by any standards you care to mention, the harbor is tiny. But extraordinarily beautiful. A very impressive area which puts you under a spell with its charming ambiance and secluded beaches. And apparently, it is the best fishing spot in the area. From the harbor’s exit we were driving on the most southern part of Sithonia.

The word koufo in Greek means “deaf”. This town was given that name because of one’s inability to hear the sea within the confines of the inlet. The inlet was also used to hide Axis (Nazi Germany & Fascist Italy) submarines during WWII. (Some claim to fame, eh!)

After our late lunch, it was already 5:00, so we had to bid adieu to this gorgeous area. We knew we had about an hour and a half drive ahead of us to get back to Pefkohori and our apartment on the sea. But first, we had to make a stop at our local supermarket for milk.

Since we had eaten such a late lunch, we made do with what we had in our apartment for dinner. No way could we have even shared an entrée. So, we read until about 9:30 pm, had a small nosh, read some more, and went to bed. Lulled to sleep by the charming sound of neighborhood dogs barking. But regardless of how hard they tried to keep us awake, we managed to sleep despite their incessant vocalization.   

   

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PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE

Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.

Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.

Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 3 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 4, and 5. 

So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.

Sunday, September 24, 2023 – Ippola Boutique Hotel, in the tiny village of Mezapos on the Mani Peninsula (still in the Peloponnese Region)

Looking down on our own private beach.

Looking back at the hotel from across the street.

Me sunning myself on our terrace.

Our very own canon right on our terrace. Now how many times does that happen?

A beautiful sunset from our terrace.

After a good night’s sleep, we both woke up about 7:30 am. It was “move to a new hotel day”. So, we wanted to get a reasonably early start. Because frankly, Google maps has no idea how long it is going to take to drive from one location to another. Oh, they know the number of kilometers, but they don’t take into consideration that you can’t drive 100k on hair pin turns. So, we have learned to take their estimated time to drive from point “a” to point “b”, and triple, if not quadruple it. (That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but you catch my drift.)

So, after another wonderful buffet breakfast, we lugged our luggage to POI (our name for our rental car) because POI are the letters that start our license plate combination of letters and numbers. And we like this car about as much as the poi (mashed taro root) we were encouraged to at least try when we were in Hawaii. Both “poi” are very much overrated in our humble opinion!

Anyway, the drive today was wonderful. Very interesting scenery and it still amazes me that so much of the land is so mountainous. Not just hilly, but sheer mountain majesty. With little villages tucked hither and yon to bring a bit of a break to the natural splendor.

Then back down to the coast for sights like this ferry. (This picture is for you Suzie E.)

But even though we tried very, very hard, we found our hotel with only a couple of wrong turns. And for being in the middle of nowhere, it is a beautiful establishment. And like our room in Monemvasia, our room here has all the modern accoutrements you could ever wish for. But it too is cave like and very dark inside. And the lighting is terrible. But we will make do. We won’t be spending that much time inside, but the lighting is hardly adequate for reading or writing. Thankfully we both have Kindles, so the screens offer enough light to read. But typing on our computer is not fun. And of course, it doesn’t help that I am a horrible typist to begin with. But being unable to see the keys clearly doesn’t help! Oh well, the joys of travel. At least my cold seems to have gone away. For which I am most grateful. And I know Andy can sleep a lot better without me hacking all night.

After we got checked into our room (another room at the very top of the hotel) we decided to check out the beach so that Andy could have a bit of a swim. I waded in the water and tomorrow I will probably join him for a late afternoon swim. I wanted to check out the beach first before I got in the water. From our room, it’s a steep road down to the beach. And there is no sand. Just small to medium sized rocks and on a slope. So, not a good beach for someone whose balance is not what it used to be. But I want to go swimming, so I’m going to make it happen tomorrow. For now, I’m a happy camper in our air-conditioned cave. So, enough for now. I have a mystery to help solve. (Haven’t I always! Then it was off to dinner at our hotel.

We are in such a small village I’m not even sure there is another restaurant available to us without getting in our car. And believe me when I say I am not looking forward to driving out of this village. The road in and out is steep and very narrow. And with a standard transmission, every hill climb leaves me quaking. I’m not usually afraid of hills, and over the years we have driven up and down some very dicey roads. But with our powerless rental car and it being a manual transmission, my nerves may never be the same. But it is what it is. And Andy is a good driver. I am, however, not a good passenger. At least not when we are driving up a steep hill where there is hardly any room to pull over. But enough about my nervous condition.

We decided that at least for tonight, we would give our hotel restaurant a try. And OMG, I don’t know where their chef learned to cook, but my pressed lamb patty over feta mashed potatoes was absolutely delicious. And Andy’s fresh ravioli stuffed with ricotta, spinach, fresh dill, and lemon was amazing. And for the first time, there was not too much food. Just a perfect amount for our senior appetites.

Then it was back to our deck to watch the sun set. Then inside to read until we could no longer keep our eyes open.

View back at the small village of Mezapos from the next hill over.

Monday, September 25, 2023

Slept very well despite the heat rash or whatever that has magically appeared on the back of my legs from behind my knees to my butt. I think sitting in our car and it being hot despite the air conditioning is causing the rash. Either that, or sand fleas or some other critters have found me a tasty treat. Whichever, it itches! Not enough to drive me crazy yet, but it could well become the thing that puts me over the edge. But please don’t get me wrong. I am very much enjoying our holiday. However, after discussing the situation with Andy, we might be better off at this stage of our life, to get to know Rick Steves better. Although, we would never get to stay in small hotels and guest houses like we have experienced so far on our trip. And these off-the-beaten-track accommodations are the kind of places we like the best. So, if we live through this adventure, we may perhaps give it one more try. But this is not the time or place to make that decision. It’s time to go to breakfast.

And once again, there are more savory dishes, pastries, fruits, veggies, breads, etc. than we could ever eat. And fresh orange juice and the best Americano I have had since Camano Island.

Then back to our room for me to catch up on this travel report and Andy to plot out any adventures that might interest us. And what an adventure he came up with. Now, one thing I have discovered about myself that seems to have come upon me recently, is that I have developed a grand and formidable case of acrophobia. And when Dr. Andy identified my condition from my symptoms this afternoon, I agreed he had me pegged correctly. For those of you like me, who until today had no idea what acrophobia was, allow me to elucidate. Acrophobia is a mental health condition in which the individual experiences an intense fear of heights. It’s a type of anxiety disorder. A person with acrophobia experiences intense fear and anxiety when they think of tall heights or are positioned at a significant height.

On the way to “Land’s End”. Not at the end because it gets worse the further along you go. At least on this part, we could stop and take a picture. Towards the end of the road – no way in hell was I going to get out of the car!

Even further away from “Land’s End”. Still some houses, but already the roads are scary as hell!

Now something you should know is that never in my life have high places caused me anything but delight. But today, on our drive to the southernmost tip of the Mani Peninsula, and not coincidentally, the southernmost tip of Greece itself, have I ever been so scared.

We started from our hotel in Mezapoz, up and out of this beach town to the main road. And I use the term “main road” very loosely. Then we decided to go north a bit and check out the location of the Diros Cave tour we would be taking tomorrow. (More to follow about the cave.) Then north a bit more to the outskirts of Areopoli. And that’s where the fun began.

We have driven some exciting roads in the past. In lots of different countries. But either I am turning into a wuss, or we have suddenly become more adventurous. And when I say we, I really mean Andy has become more adventurous. Because today, the man was fearless. Never to the point of putting us in danger. But enough for me to be so anxious I could hardly breathe. (Are we having fun yet?) And you must understand. These are not 2 lane roads. In places there’s not even what you would call one lane. And never flat. Always either up or down and hairpin turns. WITH NO BLOODY GUARD RAILS! (How can these people live like this?) So, when he turned off the “main” road to go down to what is lovingly called “Land’s End”, I almost lost it. Needless to say, I wasn’t even talking to Andy by the time we got back to the “main road”. He asked me if I was better now, and my answer was an adamant NO! But we made it back to our little village and our hotel in one piece. And I am once again speaking to the driver. But I may never be the same again!

This delightful drive took us through what could only be called a loop. Would I ever go on this “loop” again? Not bloody likely. But we did see some amazing things. Like the little church in the town of Lagia where we stopped for lunch.

The outside of the church.

The inside with its beautiful frescos.

On the north side of the Village Church is what appears to be the square base of a tower, in which resides an unusually large bell. The church contained some wonderful frescos, and the door was wide open and unattended. The church also had a tall, marble campanile, which contained several pieces of old marble, but like most of the churches, this was a more recent addition. The octagonal dome had arched facets with intricate brickwork decorations. The door of the church had a wonderful carved lintel. Walking round the outside of the church, you couldn’t fail to notice the massive rectangular blocks of marble, interspersed with sandstone blocks, with which the walls had been constructed. The intricate cloisonné brickwork decorations were also exceptional. An absolutely amazing find.

So, even though today’s adventure scared the pickles out of me, I’m very glad to have seen the sights we saw today. And hopefully some of the pictures we took will give you a glimpse of the beauty we witnessed in person.

Tuesday, September 26, 2023

Today was our day to go to the Vlychada Cave in Diros Bay. So, after another lovely buffet breakfast, we were on our way by about 9:30 am.

Vlychada Cave in Diros is one of the most beautiful caves in the world and is located on the west coast of the Laconian Peninsula, in Diros Bay. (And the main reason we chose to visit this out of the way part of Greece to visit.)

Its existence was known to the locals since around 1900, but exploration started in 1949 when the founders of the Hellenic Speleological Society were the first to conduct a systematic exploration. By 1960, 1,600 meters had been explored and mapped. Today this number has increased to 14,700 meters.

The cave began to form hundreds of thousands of years ago. The stalactites and stalagmites that are now underwater were formed when the surface of the sea was far below its current level.  Under the sparse Mani landscape, nature has patiently and artistically sculpted a miracle beyond imagination – white stalactites and stalagmites, impressive waterfalls (in the Spring) and glittering crystals adorn every corner, creating an incomparable spectacle that takes your breath away!

Referred to as only the Diros Cave, the cave is perhaps the most important natural site in Greece. The Paleolithic and Neolithic artifacts found here, many of which are on display in the museum, mean that the cave was one of the earliest inhabited places in Greece. Some say that the cave goes even further than explored so far. Maybe as far as Mount Tagetos and Sparta.

Located at the top of the Mani Peninsula between the town of Pirgos Dirou and Areopolis, the entrance is a few meters above the sea and a beautiful stone beach. When you arrive at the cave you buy a 10 euro per person ticket at the booth and continue driving down to the parking lot just outside the entrance.

When you enter the cave, you walk down a stairway to an underground lake where there are small, maximum 7 people including the guide, boats waiting. You are given a life-vest, take your assigned seat (not an easy feat),  and then the boat guide uses a pole to journey us through the caverns and tunnels, which are eerily lit and adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. You pass through many sections just wide enough to allow the boat, and where you must duck your head. Some areas are fairly large subterranean rooms where you can hear the voices of people on other boats in the distance. The air is a comfortable seventy degrees at any time of the year, so my bringing a light jacket was not necessary. 

Even though Andy took a lot of pictures, the pictures don’t do justice to the magnificence of this natural wonder. It is truly a sight best seen firsthand. But I am going to post the pictures anyway!

There was even a dragon in the cave while we were on the walking part of our tour.

Then it was back to our room for me to do some laundry, write about our cave adventure, and Andy to take the car to the end of the road our hotel is on. For me, yesterday’s adventure to Land’s End was so terrifying, I firmly said “no thank you” to Andy when he asked me if I would like to go along. I have trepidations, and yesterday firmly reminded me when something should simply remain off limits for me.

After Andy returned from his solo adventure, that he promptly told me was not actually that exciting, and after a quick shower for him, we decided to visit the nearby village of Areopoli.

After finding a place to park, we walked a bit and decided that lunch would be nice. And I must say, this little restaurant made the best pork gyro I have had so far. Perfectly seasoned meat, the tzatziki was very flavorful, and the pita soft and tender. Andy had a kebab filled gyro and his choice was also delicious. After our simple lunch we walked around the pretty village for a bit before heading for our car and the return trip to our own tiny little village.

A pretty little church in Areopoli.

Then do some more laundry and read out on our balcony deck. Life just doesn’t get much better than this. Especially because we have a cloud covering so sitting outside is pleasant. Rain and possible thunder showers are in the forecast, so we might have an exciting night. But I’m sure the residents of this area would welcome some rain. Not too much rain, but enough to settle the dust and water the flora and fauna. Speaking of fauna – there are cats everywhere in Greece. Big city or tiny village – makes no difference. And although they aren’t fat kitties, they all look reasonably healthy. And they have begging down to a science. And of course, neither of us can refuse them anything. But we must choose our time carefully to “accidentally” drop a bit of meat or cheese under our dining chair. (The restaurant staff are obviously not as enamored of these little darlings as we are and basically just ignore them.) So, we have become as sneaky as the kitties. I mean really! How could we possibly resist feeding an orange kitty? Or any kitty for that matter!

Well, it’s about 6:30 pm and while Andy is plotting our route towards our next accommodation, I am finishing this trip report for today. Of course, if what we ordered for dinner is as wonderful as the first night and the fabulous pizza we shared last evening for dinner, I may have to add a comment about our dinner tonight. If not, then when we get back to our room, I will pack as much as possible this evening to give us more time in the morning to linger over our breakfast.

Well, the dinner salad was wonderful but the pasta for the Carbonaro was not al dente. And you know, I just about can’t eat pasta that is super mushy anymore. Spoiled? You bet! But my frozen strawberry daiquiri and Andy’s mojito were perfect.

I am going to miss this quiet village and the fine people at this hotel. But then, all the staff and owners of the hotels, guest houses, and apartments we have visited so far have been very gracious and kind. I really like the people of Greece.

Judging by how dark and ominous the clouds have become, we are in for a noisy night. So, with thoughts of thunder, lightning, and rain happening while we sleep, I nodded off.

Wednesday, September 27, 2023 – Vila Thailanda, Katakolo

Well, what a noisy night we spent. As soon as it got dark, and even before we went to bed, lightning appeared to the west over the water. The lightning was far enough away that we couldn’t hear the thunder and came in both bolts and what looked to me like heat lightning. But during the night it sounded like the lightning storm was happening right over our heads. Because the thunder followed immediately after the lightning strike. But to the best of my knowledge, it didn’t really start to rain heavily until this morning. About 20 minutes before we were ready to go to breakfast. So, we waited for a pause in the downpour and skedaddled down the outside stairs from our lofty room, up the sidewalk to the actual hotel entrance, and inside the dining room with as much speed as our old legs could carry us.

Most other meals we had enjoyed outside. Mostly covered with just a roof (no walls) or large patio umbrellas. But in a torrential downpour, you really need a real roof if you want to stay dry. And I’m positive the serving staff agreed with our decision to not dine al fresco this time. There is after all, a limit to their patience with crazy tourists! (As well there should be.)

Anyway, by the time we had finished breakfast, the rain had all but stopped. So, we hurriedly finished packing, and with the help of Dimitre, the young man who appeared to be available to assist guests at the hotel 24/7, we got our luggage in the car and were on our way before the next squall appeared.

And yes, we really got some serious rain as we were driving north on the Mani Peninsula. But after a while, the sun appeared periodically, and driving was easy. All the roads were good and for most of the way, the roads remained fairly flat, or as flat as this country allows.

When we arrived at what we thought was the right place, there was no actual address on any of the closely spaced gated villas. Each block, or what I would consider a block, was numbered. And our confirmation showed that we should be at number 12 Agios Gerasimos. (Whatever an Agios Gerasimos is. Or any sign that held that reference.) So, we called the number listed on our confirmation.

At first it felt a bit touch and go. The man who answered the call had no idea the Vila was rented for today and tomorrow and said he had to verify the reservation with “the lady”. (Whomever “the lady” was!) But he took our names, country of origin, etc. and said he would have to call us back. Which he did. All was fine. Then he said he would drive over to let us in and explain everything to us. And that he would be over in 6-7 minutes. Which he was.

He went over everything with us, lights, how to open and shut the gate, etc. etc. When I asked about the breakfast that was to be provided by the Vila and where I could find a supermarket, he told us to follow him. So, we got in our car and followed our guide to the closest supermarket.

Calling this tiny space for provisioning a supermarket is a bit of a stretch. In fact, it is such an exaggeration as to be ridiculous. For fresh produce, only a box of tomatoes and a few onions. No cheese or salami that wasn’t pre-packaged. No meat (or I think it was meat) that wasn’t frozen. In fact, the store was actually smaller than your average 7-11. But our guide was there to buy us groceries for our breakfast. So, 2 quarts of milk, 2 pint sized bottles of chocolate milk, 3 types of bread, a package of bologna and cheese, several small containers of butter, a big jar of cherry jam, some Cheetos (more like weak cheese straws), a 12 pack of bottled water, 2 packaged chocolate croissants, a milk chocolate bar, 4 small containers of yogurt, a quart of orange juice, several small packages of Nescafe (for our breakfast coffee) and 15 fresh eggs were packaged up and ready for our taking and all paid for by Vasilis. 

After Vasilis (our host/guide/whatever) led us part way back to the Vila, we waved goodbye to each other and headed back to our residence for the next 2 nights to unload our groceries and bring in our luggage from the car.

And since it was nearly 3:00 pm when we got back to the Vila, I decided since we had so much bread, I might as well use some of our breakfast supplies to make us lunch. So, bologna and cheese sandwiches with a side of insipid cheese straws. Followed by Caprice. (Greek chocolate wafer rolls.) They at least were wonderful.

After lunch, Andy explored the sandy beach, and I got caught up on this travel report. And what a beautiful beach this is. Sandy and with a gentle slope into the water. And off to the right towards the marina, a huge floating hotel (aka cruise ship) was moored. Frankly, the ship looked like it was a picture of a cruise ship that had been cut and pasted into a picture of a small and quiet harbor. But we knew why it was in port. Because we too were in this area of Greece to see ancient Olympia. Which was on our agenda for the next day.

Since we had eaten lunch in the midafternoon, and it was much too early to think about dinner, we spent a bit of quality time with our Kindles. We normally would be sitting outside while reading, but with the rain we had received earlier, the lovely grassy area between the Vila and the beach was alive with some kind of annoying biting insect. So, being the fragile darlings that we are, we took shelter in our air-conditioned living room. Andy with a before dinner Scotch set before him and me with a glass of ice water. Life is good. Well at least until you decide it’s time to go out for dinner and you try to turn off the kitchen lights.

We tried every light switch in this 3-bedroom, one bath apartment to shut off the lights in the kitchen before we went to dinner. But to no avail. Of course, we found the light switch to turn on the colored lights around the perimeter of the kitchen floor and ceiling, and the switch to turn on the lighting under the counter that is open to the living room (totally worthless BTW), but not how to turn off the light by the stove. Oh, there’s a switch by the light, but nothing happens when you flip it either way. So, leaving the kitchen light on, we went to the marina for dinner. I wanted fish.

And there on the menu was a mixed seafood platter just waiting to be ordered. God help me if I ever do that again. At least in Greece. I swear the grease had not been changed since before Covid. The batter for the shrimp (head, tail, guts, and legs), anchovies, cod, and squid was fine, but the fat the seafood had been cooked in tasted rancid to me. And no aioli or tartar sauce for the fish. There was a very garlicky sauce, but it was horrible. Oh well, you can’t win them all.

Then it was back to our Vila for more reading and then lights out. And again, what fun we had with the various light switches. One of them turned on the overhead light in the master bedroom. Great. Always nice to see where you’re going. But how to turn on the lights nicely placed for reading in bed? Not a clue as to how to turn them on. And believe me we looked and then looked some more. But we did find a way to turn on a light under our bed.

Now you too might wonder what that light was for. And please, if you have a reasonable and not naughty suggestion, we would appreciate your input.

Then it was time to turn down the bed. And what to our wondering eyes should appear, but pillows without pillowcases. So, we went to the linen closet expecting to find a nice assortment. Nope. Not a pillowcase to be found. So, remembering that there were two other bedrooms from which to raid supplies, we found not only more pillows, but some actually had pillowcases on them. I chose one and off to bed I went. 

Now, if you have ever slept on a scented pillow and enjoyed it, more power to you! But I woke up in the middle of the night thinking we were being poisoned. Because the air smelled so bad, I could hardly stand to keep breathing. I was sure there was a leak in the apartment of some kind that was going to prove fatal. But then I realized the odor was coming from my pillow. What? So, I changed to a different pillow. Still the horrible smell. So, I covered the second pillow with one of my jackets and finally could get back to sleep. It wasn’t till morning when I asked Andy if the odor had kept him awake when he answered, “what odor” that I began to question my sanity. Which now brings us to…..

Thursday, September 28, 2023

Andy in his infinite wisdom had not chosen a “Laura Ashley” pillow. And low and behold, his pillow did not stink. So, the first thing I did was get rid of the retched things and find one that was not scented. God, who would do such a mean thing to an unsuspecting tourist? Anyway, I think I have solved the problem and that I should be able to sleep better tonight. And today was going to be fun. After all, this was our day to visit ancient Olympia. But first, breakfast.

How to describe a packaged chocolate croissant? Well, for me horrible works just fine. And Nescafe powdered coffee? Not worth bothering. And the whole wheat bread that made great sandwiches yesterday, would have been fabulous, but the toaster was dead. And of course, because there was no fruit at the “supermarket” we had visited the day before, our banana apple yogurt was less than desirable. But the scrambled eggs I made were OK. And so was the dried bread (I think it’s called rusk) slathered with lots of jam. We didn’t even bother opening the orange juice in a carton and neither of us was interested in the chocolate milk.

So, after washing the dishes in the sink and letting them air dry, we were on our way to ancient Olympia. Which was fabulous!

Olympia, located in the Ilia region in the north-west of the Peloponnese Peninsula, dates back to the end of the final Neolithic period (4th millennium BC), and is considered one of the most important places to trace the roots of Western society due to its religious, political, and sports tradition. Olympia was the center of worship of Zeus, the father of the twelve Olympian gods. Some of the most remarkable works of art were created to adorn Altis, the sacred grove and sanctuary.

Great artists, such as Pheidias, put stamps of inspiration and creativity here, offering unique artistic creations to the world. Μany masterpieces have survived: large votive archaic bronzes, pedimental sculptures, and metopes from the temple of Zeus, and the famous complex of Hermes by Praxiteles. These are all major works of sculpture and key references in the history of art.

Olympia was also the birthplace of the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world. The Olympic Games took place here every four years from 776 BC to 393 AD. The Olympic Game, the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world—paid homage to the finest athletes. That tradition continues to this day, nearly 3,000 years later. But Olympia was not just used every four years to laud mortals. It was also a place where remarkable works of art and culture were created and shared to worship the Greek god Zeus.

It is this melding of history and the molding of modernity that makes this site so special. The Olympic Games in the times of ancient Greece were about more than sport. They represented peace and the nobility of competition. These ideals, and elements of the events, have continued to this day.

The modern Olympic Games are undoubtedly the world’s most important sporting competition and have their basis here. From the marathon to the olive wreath and the regularity of the event, there are still clear influences today from the ancient Greek times.

Some pictures from Olympia.

Stepping into the stadium, you imagine the roar of the crowd. This is the same track where athletes raced from the very beginning of the games. While the remains of dozens of buildings and temples sit among the shade of trees on the archaeological site. Some were specifically built for sporting events, and some for the worship of Zeus. The on-site museum holds a collection of priceless artefacts that once decorated the sanctuary. And of course, we had to visit the museum.

After walking around this amazing site and visiting the museum, we felt it must be time for ice cream (me) and iced coffee (Andy). After all, we had been on the same ground that the ancients used when competing against their fellow athletes. But at least we were allowed to wear clothes. Apparently during the first Olympics, the men competed naked and barefooted. Not a pair of Nike shoes to be found. But, to keep from being sunburned to a crisp, they were allowed to cover their bodies with olive oil and dusty earth. What a sight that must have been! Anyway, it was truly awe inspiring just to be on this site. A visit I hope I never forget. 

Then back to our car, a stop for lunch, a bit of previsioning at a large supermarket that actually had produce, then back to our apartment for a swim.

Andy got wet but with grey clouds looming over us and the weather folks predicting more thunderstorms, we decided a swim might not be the smartest way to spend our time. So, back in our Vila with the air conditioner humming away and some quality time with our Kindles.

Since we had both just about had it with Greek food, I made dinner. A bologna and cheese sandwich, fruit salad, a sliced tomato, and more of the wimpy Cheetos cheese straws that hopefully we will never encounter again. Then part of a milk chocolate bar for dessert. Then to bed, perhaps to sleep without the stench of perfumed pillows.

Friday, September 29, 2023 – Galaxa Mansion, Galaxidi

Had called the day before to ask the caretaker to meet us so we could turn over the key and gate opener/shutter at 10:30 am. As we were taking our bags to the car at about 10:15, “the lady” appeared. Very pleasant, and truly I didn’t have the heart to tell her the inadequacies I mentioned earlier to her face. So, we thanked her for a nice stay, bought some of her brother’s honey, and were on our way by 10:30 am.

And right away, the terrain was different. It was flat farmland. Flat. The first flat land I think we had yet to encounter. But of course, it didn’t last. As soon as we got to the top of the western part of the Peloponnese Peninsula and close to the town of Patras, we were once again in hill and mountain country. And then, there it was. The bridge over the Gulf of Corinth.

The Rio–Antirrio Bridge is one of the world’s longest multi-span cable-stayed bridges. It crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponnese Peninsula to Antirrio on mainland Greece. Its official name is the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge. The bridge is widely considered to be an engineering masterpiece, owing to several solutions applied to span the difficult site. These difficulties include deep water, insecure materials for foundations, seismic activity in the area, the probability of tsunamis, and the expansion of the Gulf of Corinth due to plate tectonics.

Well, even with all the things that could have gone wrong while we were crossing the bridge, they didn’t happen. The bridge was just beautiful to see and drive over. However, it was the most expensive toll bridge we have ever crossed. But I guess that’s all right for a once in a lifetime experience. (13 euros, 70 cents) The bridge was sleek and modern and except for the expense was a joy to cross. So, now we are back on mainland Greece.

And what a beautiful ride along the mainland coast of the Gulf of Corinth. Up and around ragged hills and mountain slopes, with charming villages high in the hills to right on the shore.

We stopped for lunch in Zakynthos on St. Nicholas beach. Ordered cod that had just been caught by the father of our waiter. The boat was tied up right by our table. Then on to Galaxidi.

Found our mansion with no trouble. The nice young receptionist told us we were given an upgraded room. No extra charge. Very quaint, with all the accoutrements we had expected. But very, very small quarters. And to my sheer horror, it also held the same horrific smell that had previously given me a headache. I have surmised at this point, that it may not have been the Laura Ashley pillows that smelled so bad. That the laundry detergent or some kind of drier sheet that is used by hotels etc. is scented and therefore the culprit. Whatever causes the smell, I am not liking it one tiny bit! So, tonight it’s Tylenol PM for me so that hopefully I can sleep through the night.

After loading more library books on my Kindle, we went across the street to the mansion’s patio bar.

Andy had an iced coffee drink, and I had a mojito. Fabulous drink. I plan to have another one just before I go to bed since the hotel bar is open until 11:00 pm.

Meanwhile, I am getting caught up on this travel report, while the unscreened windows stay wide open to hopefully carry some of the smell away. So, which is worse? The smell or a thousand new bites? I’m beginning to yearn for home! But with windows that open, I was able to get rid of the smell by air circulation. Yeah me! Then it was time for dinner.

Since our mansion/hotel is in a residential area, we decided to walk down our hill, around the first inlet, then along the road to the second inlet for dinner. Not a long walk but enough to work up an appetite. (About a half kilometer each way.)

We chose a restaurant that offered dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), because Andy is particularly fond of them. On the same menu was schnitzel, which I like very much. So, after ordering, we enjoyed watching other diners and since we were right on the bay, watching small boats come into the harbor. Andy also ordered a dish that was basically cream, feta, and a bit of spice (I think cayenne) whirled together.

When my schnitzel arrived, I thought the waiter had brought me a triple portion. OMG, there was enough meat on my plate to serve 4 hungry eaters. And the ever-present French fries. I swear, after I get home, I am not going to eat another French fry until next summer. French fries are served with everything here. And sometimes, they are even hot.

Towards the end of our meal, I realized I was being eaten alive. My lower legs felt like they were on fire. So, we hastened through the rest of our meal, eating as much as we could. But then, it was time to pay for dinner. 

I am going to take a moment at this time to explain the etiquette of paying for one’s meal. And a bit of what it’s like to eat in restaurants in Greece. If you were so inclined, you could sit over your empty plates until the restaurant turned off its lights at 2:00 am. Or so it would seem. None of the citizens of this great country appear in a hurry to leave their table. They dawdle. And the waiters don’t appear eager to have patrons hurry off either. And then, most adults must have an after-dinner smoke or seven. I have seen more people smoking in Greece than any other European country we have visited. And there is almost always too much food. And often a small complimentary appetizer or bread plate and/or an after dinner treat unique to that particular restaurant.

So, after practically tripping our waiter to bring us our check, we made a hasty retreat from the restaurant. By this time, it was dark. And unlike other small villages, there was very little lighting. But we managed.

As we were approaching our room with the mansions’ lovely patio bar right across the way, we decided to have a seat in the bar and watch the moon come over the mountain and the bay.

Andy had a small glass of Kahlúa. I decided I really didn’t need another mojito, so I was prepared to just enjoy the ambiance of the setting. Well, that is, until a party of 4 seniors ordered dessert. Then, I simply could not resist ordering a chocolate soufflé. And OMG, I have never tasted anything so delicious. What a way to top off an evening.

Then, happily ready for a good night’s sleep, we crossed the road and into our room. After a few pages in our respective books, we decided we had enjoyed enough of what today could bring and decided to call it a day.   

Saturday, September 30, 2023 – Theatro Hotel Odysseon, Kalambaka

After a fabulous breakfast on the hotel’s patio bar, complete with a visit from the resident tortoise I might add, we were ready to be on our way. But before we could leave, I just had to ask how a tortoise could live on a terrace complete with steps? I just could not imagine a small tortoise climbing and descending steps. But yes, tortoises can go up and down steps. How do I know this? I asked our hotel concierge if this was possible. He assured me that yes indeed the tortoises (it turns out there are 3 tortoises that call the patio bar their home) most certainly can get around just fine. Well, there you go. You learn something new every day. And yes, it was very charming having a tortoise as a breakfast mate. I just wish I had been able to meet the other two also. So, with luggage safely tucked in our car, and our adventure hats firmly affixed to our heads, we were on our way to our next destination.

Both of us had really enjoyed this beautiful little village with its clock tower that signaled the hour and its church bells that rang with what can only be described as “any old time they wanted”. There seemed no rhyme or reason for when they sounded, but then who are we to know the sacred signals that are known only to the residents of any given town. We are simply tourists blessed with the opportunity to witness paradise firsthand!

So, with fond memories to take with us and our trusty map of Greece close at hand, we were back on the road.

Today’s drive would take us north and inland and to the land of ancient monasteries. The area we will be visiting for the next 3 days is called Meteora. But along the way, we witnessed firsthand some of the devastating effects of Storm Daniel. Some roads were closed, even a part of the toll road we had planned to take, forcing us to make unplanned detours. But eventually we found our hotel, and no one was harmed in the process. 

According to www.visitgreece.gr “One of the greatest monuments of the world, protected by UNESCO and characterized by it as “A Preserved and Protected Monument of Humanity”, Meteora is the most important after Aghios Oros (Mt. Athos) monastic center in Greece. The first ascetics came here in the 11th century. Meteora, however, flourished as a monastic center between the 13th and 14th century as many people who lived in the nearby areas embraced the monastic way of living.
Many years ago, the only way of accessing the monasteries of Meteora was by climbing. Back then this meant that you must strive for isolation and pursuit of God. Nowadays this is considered to be an alternative activity and the best way to enjoy the uniqueness of the landscape. Furthermore, most visitors take the steps that have been carved in the rocks. It is also breathtaking to walk along the paths hidden behind the massive rocks, which are considered to be created by clysmian substances, rocks and other materials that were carried by a big river which used to be in this area. Constant wind and rain erosion, as well as other geological changes that happened in the course of time, gave to the rocks their present shape.”

One of the things many people wonder about is the meaning of the name Meteora. Apparently “Meteora” didn’t originate from a fallen meteorite. “Meteora” was the name the monks gave to the giant rock pillars they saw back in the 14^th century. It is thought that monks felt the giant cliffs remained suspended between the heavens and the earth. The word Meteoro or Meteoron (plural is Meteora) in the Greek vocabulary translates into something that remains suspended in midair or a thing that floats in the sky. It’s a synonymous word to meteors and the meteorites used in the English language to describe the celestial objects entering our atmosphere or floating in space, originating both from the Greek word “meteoro”.

After arriving we had a late lunch (Latin American nachos) (don’t ask) then up to our room for me to write and Andy to read out on our small balcony. Then off to dinner where Andy was brave enough to order Trachanas – a soup (the pasta is made from flour and fermented milk or yogurt) and the broth (who knows). He liked it OK, but I don’t think I am going to be asked to duplicate it at home. (Fat chance of that anyway!) And of course, while dining, vicious nasty little critters decided my ankles were fair game, so all night I was driven crazy by bites that refused to settle down. Can we go home now? No, first we have to visit Meteora. So, with happy thoughts of climbing and descending stone and wood steps until my body was worn to a frazzle, I drifted off to sleep.  

     

PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE

Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.

Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.

Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 2 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 3, 4, and 5. 

So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.

Sunday, September 17, 2023 – Anavalos Hotel, Day 2 (think private home with 8 guest bedrooms) – Kiveri

Woke up feeling much better and having slept very well, much refreshed. Still a bit of sore throat, but not as painful as yesterday. Still a bit tired too, so taking it a little easy today. And why not? We’re in paradise. A great bed, air conditioning, a fabulous view of the water, someone else to make our breakfast, and plans for later to take a drive, swim in the pool, and generally enjoy our holiday.

I can’t in all conscience call this a vacation. Sometimes I do refer to our trips as vacations, but being retired, it feels like we are on vacation every day. Whether we are at home or away in our trailer or overseas trying to acclimate ourselves to a new culture. Always hoping not to offend anyone in the process.

It is hard sometimes to know how to address someone, to tip them for services, or if in doing so, making them uncomfortable. My greatest fear is that it would be like someone tipping Andy and me after a JazzVox concert at our home. (Of course, no one has ever tried. More the pity! Just kidding.) But I’m sure you have found yourself in the same situation. You don’t want to offend either by doing something or not doing something. But that, in and of itself, is part of the whole travel experience. Learning about other cultures and seeing how other people live. And meeting people who are also new to the area. I’ve actually discussed politics with 3 people from other countries already. And have learned that regardless of where you are from, the political situation in your country isn’t any better than ours. It’s a mess everywhere. Now that should scare the pickles out of you because it sure did me. I was so hoping to hear that Australia’s (for example) government was doing well. Nope. Their political situation is as crazy as ours. But enough about politics and back to Greece.

After a leisurely start to the day and our bellies full of pastry, cheese, yogurt with fruit, veggie omelet, fresh orange juice, and fabulous coffee, it was time for me to write a bit and Andy to find a shady spot to read.

Then it was on to today’s adventure. But first, how am I feeling? Well, it’s Sunday so none of the apothecary shops are open, or I would have already taken a Covid test. Just to make sure that I’m not a living time bomb. I don’t have any of the usual symptoms of Covid, but more like the common cold. I don’t feel bad enough to even stay in the hotel and rest. But tomorrow, there will be a test happening just to make certain.

I feel no worry about being contagious to anyone except Andy, because all interactions with others are outside. All the restaurants, our breakfasts here at our hotel, our conversations with fellow travelers, etc. are in the open air.

Today’s afternoon adventure took us to the top of a hill and the ancient city of Nafplio. Nafplio is one of the most beautiful towns in the Argolis area (in eastern Peloponnese) as well as one of the most romantic cities in Greece. Nafplio was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823 and 1834.
According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of the God Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone. The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when soldiers from this area participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War. The town declined during the Roman era but flourished again during Byzantine times. Frankish, Venetian, and Turkish conquerors left their mark in the town and strongly influenced its culture, architecture, and traditions during the centuries. Ancient walls, medieval castles, monuments, statues, Ottoman fountains, and Venetian or neoclassical buildings are everywhere to be seen. But our destination for the day is the Palamidi Fortress.

The Palamidi Castle/Fortress is located on the hill Palamidi of Nafplion at a height of 216 meters and at a strategic point for the control of the Argolic Gulf. It is the best-preserved and considered one of the most beautiful castles in Greece, being an achievement of fortification architecture.

An ancient fortress and an ancient lady

Quite a nice view all things considered.

Palamidi dominates the city of Nafplio, in the sense that it almost floats on a steep hill (216 m) over Nafplio. Between 1711 and 1714 the Venetians built the castle (an amazingly short time), and this is in fact the final fortress of importance the Venetians built outside their own country. It’s also considered one of the most impressive. Yet, in 1715, one year after completion, the Turks defeated the castle.

Nafplio is one of the first places in Greece that won independence. November 29th, 1822, a group of Greek rebels overpowered the Turks in Palamidi, and the next day the town could celebrate its freedom.

From 1840 and for nearly a hundred years, Palamidi was used as a prison, and in conjunction with this the stairs up to the castle were built. It is often said that there are 999 steps, but it’s actually “only” 857. (Andy actually counted them. Not!) 

Palamidi is very well preserved, and it’s evocative and beautiful to walk on the worn stones, between the massive walls and buildings. Among the parts of the fortress to visit are a very small door to visit a small jail cell which of course Andy popped in to see, the Ag. Andreas Church, and the eight bastions within the sturdy castle walls.

While I didn’t walk to all 8 bastions because the walkways were unlevel rocks and up and down hills, Andy saw most of the fortress. And to say the vistas were amazing is to put it mildly. But after about 90 minutes, it was time to get back in our car and seek out some lunch. So, back to the fish restaurant we had eaten at the day before to share fried anchovies, taramasalata, and a Greek salad. Then it was back in our Audi and up and out of town. And as it turned out, easier said than done!

Most of the vehicles we encounter are small cars or motorbikes. But as we were going up an especially steep hill towards the main road, around the corner came an American sized truck. And where usually this would not be a problem if you met a car, the truck did not have the turning capacity required to make the turn, so he just stopped to let us go through. Well, on that steep hill and with a manual transmission with no hill-hold we were stuck. Andy tried and tried, but to no avail. Finally, the nice owner/waiter from a close by restaurant came over and offered to help us crazy Americans. So, Andy gets out, he gets in, and he couldn’t make it work either. So, not just us. He finally just backed into a side street and made a run for it up the hill. Then he parked the car for us, told me he loved me (twice), and Andy took over from there. But you should have seen this nice Greek man’s face when he couldn’t get us up the hill at first either. I could almost read his mind. “This piece of _ _ _ _ Audi is worthless.” At least that’s what I surmised he was thinking, because that’s sure as hell what I was thinking too!

Another instance of “I (we) get by with a little help from my (our) friends.” New friends they might be, but friends none-the-less.

Since we were now safely parked next to a grocery store and had just eaten a big meal at 3:30, we decided not to go out for another meal that night. But rather, just purchase a bit of cheese and salami to eat with our leftover bread from “lunch” if we got hungry later that night. Which of course we did. Then it was read outside for a while in the cool of the evening and then to bed with our air conditioner happily keeping us cool all night. Another memorable day in Greece.

Monday, September 18, 2023

After going to bed at a reasonable hour, we were both surprised that we had slept until 9:30. Then down to breakfast and then back to our room to decide on today’s plan of action.

After a bit of research, we decided to go visit Epidauras Theater. This ancient theater was constructed at the end of the 4th century BC. Praised for its symmetry and beauty, the theater has a maximum capacity of 13,000 to 14,000 spectators. The theatre hosted music, singing, and dramatic games that were included in the worship of Asclepius.

Asclepius was a hero and God of medicine in ancient Greek religion and mythology. He was supposedly the son of Apollo* and Coronis**. Asclepius basically represented the healing aspect of the medical arts. Therefore, the theater was also used to heal patients, since the citizens of this area held the belief that the observation of dramatic shows had positive effects on mental and physical health.

Today, the monument attracts a large number of Greek and foreign visitors and is used for the performance of ancient drama plays.The first modern performance conducted at the theatre was played in 1938. Performances stopped due to World War II. Theatrical performances began again in 1954 as a theatrical festival. In 1955 they were established as an annual event for the presentation of ancient drama. The Epidaurus Festival continues today during the summer months.

*Apollo is one of the Olympian deities in classical Greek and Roman religion and Greek and Roman mythology. Apollo was known to be the God of archery, music, dance, truth, prophecy, healing and diseases, the Sun and light, poetry, and more. One of the most important and complex of the Greek Gods, he was the son of Zeus and Leto, and the twin brother of Artemis, goddess of the hunt. He was considered to be the most beautiful god and was represented as the ideal of the kouros (ephebe, or a beardless, athletic youth).

**In Greek mythology, Coronis was a princess and Apollo’s lover. By Apollo she became pregnant and the mother of Asclepius. While she was still pregnant, she was suspected of cheating on Apollo with a mortal man and was subsequently killed by a God for her betrayal. After failing to heal her, Apollo rescued their unborn child (Asclepius) by caesarean section. After her death, Coronis was turned into a constellation.

After finding a place to park, we paid our admission and walked up to the theater. Huge, and it is said that you can hear performers speak without voice magnification from the last row of the theater. The acoustics are purported to be just that good. And it had been a lovely ride to the theater. Mountainous roads but good, scattered villages, and very little traffic.

After viewing the theater and having a bit of ice cream, we decided to extend our adventure and head out to Methana.

The peninsula of Methana with its two steep volcanic slopes is a volcano that emerged from the sea. And is famous for its stunning volcanic landscape with dense vegetation, coastal villages, and diverse flora and fauna. The establishment of the spa complex in 1870 made it a popular spa town attracting mainly senior citizens from many European countries.

Well, these senior citizens couldn’t visit this area today because the road was closed. No explanation and even Google Maps didn’t know about the closure. So, it was back to our hotel for me to write and Andy to take a dip in the pool.

But even if we couldn’t get to this area, we had a great ride through the mountains and saw many lovely sights. And great vistas from along the road. So, not a total loss.

Tried to stop at our local apothecary, but by the time we got back to Kiveri at before 4:00 pm, the bloody pharmacy was already closed. So, yet again, no Covid test kit.  Back to our room terribly unhappy with myself for leaving home without a kit. It will never happen again. Even if I am only going into Stanwood for groceries! To be continued after dinner.

One thing I have learned, the hard way, is that food portions are huge here. And once again, thinking I was just ordering three appetizers, I couldn’t clean my plate. So, for example, when I ordered meatballs for 3.50 euros, I got 8 2-inch meatballs with tomato sauce on the side. And fried eggplant, several pieces. And the tzatziki would have been enough for 4 people. And then there’s the bread that comes with every meal. It’s thickly cut, coarse textured, and slightly yellow. And delicious.

Andy ordered just a portion of moussaka, not a full meal, and still it was too much food for the two of us. And we hadn’t had lunch so by 6:00 pm we were hungry. Just an example of the generous spirit of this country.

Then back to our room. Andy for a swim, me to write a bit, and then a couple of chapters in our books. Then shut the large patio door, lower the metal blinds, and turn on the air. What a way to live.

Tuesday, September 18, 2023 – Bay View Guest House, Kalamata

Well, last night was not the best night’s sleep I have ever had. I kept coughing all night. I’m sure it must have nearly driven Andy crazy. But what can you do when your body is rebelling. For sure, before we do anything else today, I am going to find a Covid kit. But as sure as I am that I can find one with directions in English, Andy is just as skeptical. But I must try. Because I simply want to know. What I have feels just like a head cold, but if I have Covid I want to take every precaution with people around me.

Today we move to a new guest house, and I don’t want to assume that I am OK. While at Anavalos, we were never in a room with anyone. Like I said earlier, every encounter is outside. But that may not be the case at our next abode.

So, after extending a fond farewell to the owner Yacek, we were on our way. First stop – the local apothecary for test kits and more masks. Then on the road to Kalamata.

Over hill and dale and 3 toll booths later, we were in the small city of Kalamata. Then follow the directions given to us by the owner of Bay View Guest House, and up we climbed once again towards our destination.

Now, I believe I have already mentioned that our Audi is not the most pleasant of vehicles to drive. Oh, it’s OK unless you want to go uphill. Then you better put your foot to the gas pedal and pray that there are no oncoming vehicles because stopping on a steep hill is tantamount to disaster. We made it with only one wrong turn, but it was not easy even with Google maps (our new best friend by the way). Because we are at the top of the hill. Nothing behind us but one other villa and then a cliff. But OMG the view and accommodations are incredible.

The owner’s mother Olga greeted us. She and her husband had lived in the US for 17 years and she was thrilled to have Americans as guests. And the apartment was amazing. The only thing that caught me a bit by surprise was that I would have to cook our breakfast the next morning. But everything I could possibly want was either in the fridge or on the counter. Ham, cheese, eggs fresh from their own chickens, fresh fruit, yogurt, orange juice, you name it. I must say, instead of being upset, I was thrilled.

Breakfast on our deck. Check out the amazing view.

Being away from a kitchen too long often gives me hives. So, being able to cook our breakfast was a treat. And we were told not to do the dishes. They would be happy to do them for us. I tried to put a stop to that right there and then. I told Olga doing the breakfast cleanup was Andy’s job. (Actually, I do the breakfast dishes at home while Andy makes the bed and takes care of all things cat.) But I didn’t want these good people to have to clean up any mess that I made. But I got over it and left the dishes like a good little guest. (I could get used to this!)

But of course, now I am going to have to buy an apron. (Like I need one more apron!) But desperate times require desperate measures. And cooking without an apron just feels sick and wrong.

For dinner we took the advice of our hostess and went down to the marina area for dinner. Took a couple three wrong turns to find and place. But it was well worth the effort.

Andy had a dish he really wants me to repeat at home. It was a long thin slice of bread spread with taramasalata, grilled squid, and a small amount of brown gravy. I had battered cod with mashed potatoes, mashed beets, and probably cooked beet greens. Couldn’t tell for sure, but they were stringy but very flavorful. And of course, toasted bread drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with dried herbs. A very fine dinner. Then back up the bloody hill to our room in the sky.

Oh, and BTW, I took the Covid test, and it was negative. Of course, I am thrilled, but I’m still not feeling as well as I would like.

And just in case you ever need to take a Covid test while in a foreign country, and the directions look like Greek to you (and in this case they were), go online and search under the manufacturers name and Covid then type in “English instructions” and all will be revealed. (And Andy of course had been right. Nary an English word to be seen on the test kit instructions.)

Wednesday, September 20, 2023

Slept long and hard. I was only up three times during the night with coughing attacks, but the rest of the night I slept like the dead.

Woke up to sunny skies (no duh), had a cup of coffee, took my shower, made breakfast, cleaned up the kitchen, and then sat down to bring this travel report up to date. Now it’s time to decide what grand adventure to go on today. To be continued……

This afternoon we decided to take a scenic drive along the coast and up into the mountains to visit the tiny coastal village of Kardamyli. But just as we were leaving our room, the alarm system went off. We went back in our room, checked everything we could to try and make things right. Tried calling the owner (Nadia) and her mother (Olga) who lives on site but could not get through to either party.

Andy headed out to find Olga, and discovered it wasn’t our room that was causing the alarm. It was from one of the other rooms. And all they were doing was trying to leave their room and step onto their patio. At least it wasn’t us causing the trouble. At least this time! But back to our afternoon adventure. It appears it was just coincidental that as we were leaving our room, the alarm problem started. (Sure it was!)

At first glance Kardamyli is a sleepy fishing village. It lies about one hour south of Kalamata. The drive itself is beautiful, but at times it is hair raising to say the least. I don’t believe there was one single kilometer of flat the whole way.

Kardamyli has a long and varied history. First mentioned in Homer’s epic poem the Iliad, written about 1200bc, the village was offered to Achilles by Agamemnon to tempt him back to the siege of Troy. At that time, Kardamyli was the main port of the ancient Greek city-state of Sparta.

Many of the buildings in Old Kardamyli or “upper village” were built in the Venetian style. You can also see tower houses built by the Niklian clans. At the back of the old town are the tombs of the twin gods Castor and Pollux. Pausanias wrote that from the seashore here the Nereids came out to admire the sons of Achilles. In more modern times it was the jumping off point for the declaration of Greek independence from the Turks, when Kolokotroni and other captains from the Mani marched towards Kalamata on March 23, 1821. At one time, it was also known as a base for foreign pirates.

The village centers around the high street with upmarket boutiques, cafes, and bars. The older buildings in the main town tend to be around 300 years old and are built from local stone. There are no large-scale tourist developments, hotels, or guest houses. But what has been changed or updated blends in well with the local architecture.

After viewing the town, we had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant right on the water. After then it was back to our guest house, a bit of hand clothes washing for me, writing, and then back to help Miss Marple solve another mystery. Another great day in Greece if only my cough would go away! Luckily Andy is just fine. Because there isn’t any amount of money to get me behind the wheel of our rental car. Even though I learned to drive on a stick shift, on these roads that’s all you do. Shift, shift, and then shift again. Poor Andy. Every time anything gets dicey, I yelp. I don’t mean to, but it just comes out. Maybe I should be drinking more martinis before we get in the car. Who am I kidding. I haven’t had even one martini since we left home. I learned long ago that martinis made in a foreign country are basically terrible. So, why bother. Better to have the local beer. Which BTW, I am enjoying very much.

Well, enough for now. I am going to bed. But first one more comment. As we look down on the water, there are 4 large vessels just hanging out in the bay. We can’t figure out how or where they are going to unload their cargo. And have seen no sign of smaller boats coming to them to offload whatever product they are carrying. Or give them produce to take some other place. Very strange to say the least.  We just hope we can figure it out before we leave. Tomorrow an olive oil and wine tasting tour.

Thursday, September 21, 2023

Set the alarm for 7:30 am. Wanted to have plenty of time to cook breakfast and get on the road by 9:00. Since everywhere we go is new to us, and even using Google maps, finding any new destination involves a great deal of luck. Because as you are maneuvering on steep, narrow streets, it’s very difficult to read signs and follow the little blue dot on your phone. Just trying to keep the car from stalling as you are going uphill takes all your concentration. And sure, as the navigator I should be of wonderful assistance. Not happening. First of all, the sun is always in a position to obscure the phone’s screen. Matters not at all where we are going. The sun is always on the screen. Then there is the matter of my old eyes. I need reading glasses and driving glasses. So, with two pairs of glasses on my lap, every other second switching back and forth, I am totally useless as a navigator. Really Andy should be navigating. But I am not getting behind the wheel of this car unless someone is holding a gun to my head or Andy is sitting in the passenger’s seat and I am driving him to a hospital.

Twenty years ago, it would have been a different story. But as much as I want to fight the idea, some things are getting just a bit beyond me. And luckily for everyone, I seem to know my limitations. And one of my limitations appears to be my desire to drive in a foreign country! But on to why we were out and about, to begin with.

Before leaving home, I had booked us for a Kalamata Olive Oil & Wine Tour with Traditional Lunch. For this event, we were to meet our guide at the castle in the small hill town of Androusa about 30 minutes’ drive from Kalamata. So, to make sure we arrived in time, we left an hour before we were to meet our guide. And sure enough, Google maps had no more idea of where the castle was in this town than we did. Luckily Androusa is not a large town. It’s actually a small village. So, with Andy’s keen sense of direction, we found the castle in time to not feel foolish.

Our guide was a lovely young woman (Dimitra) who has made it her life’s work to produce good quality olive oil and work as an olive oil sommelier. (An olive oil sommelier is someone who is trained to identify the different types of olive oils and their flavor profiles.)

Olive oil production has been in her family for generations. So, when she decided to make it her career too (and also her passion I might add) she went to college to study olive oil processing in the same manner as others study oenology. Oenology, derived from the Greek oînos (wine) and lógos (science), refers to the science dedicated to the study and knowledge of wines. It also studies the cultivation of the vines, the production of the wine, its ageing and packaging, its tasting, its consumption, and its marketing.

Us at the castle among the olive trees for our education about all things relevant to olive trees, growing olives, and turning them into something edible.

As we were going through our tour at the castle, there were pieces of paper with questions on them for us to answer (a treasure hunt, kinda sorta) hidden in used olive oil bottles. At one point Andy was given an olive wreath to wear on his head for answering a question correctly. Hard to see on this picture, but trust me, it was there. And as you can almost see from the picture, we were up on a hill. And of course, we were. We were at a castle after all!

Still at the castle. Up against the wall peasants. And look happy while doing so! (Which of course we were!)

After our visit to the castle our next stop was Psaroulis Winery. This winery produces wines of superior quality from its own vineyards which are in the Vasilada (village) of Messinia. It is a family-owned and operated business started by the father of the current winemaker. His nephew, who speaks very good English came down from Athens to talk to us about the production of the wine and to lead us through the wine tasting. Even though I don’t drink wine any longer, I did have to take a taste or two. And what I tasted was wonderful. Especially the merlot. (Sorry Jim!)

After our wine tasting we went back into Androusa for the olive oil tasting and traditional lunch. And boy was that fun. I learned I have rather plebian tastes when it comes to olive oil. And that I should be using various grades of olive oil for different dishes. After all, said the owner of the olive oil processing establishment, “you wouldn’t use the same wine for every dish you prepared, now would you.” And of course, she was right.

Of the two types of olives grown in this region, I was only familiar with kalamata olives and kalamata olive oil. The other olives grown in this area are the Koroneiki olives. Much smaller than the kalamata and still green when they are ready to be harvested. Kalamata olives are either dark maroon or almost black when they are ready to be stripped by hand from the branches of the kalamata olive tree.

And then it was time for lunch. And I must say, some of the dishes were OK, but none were anything I would serve to a guest. I actually felt a bit snarky at this point, because I had just been given a mini lecture on my plebian use and knowledge of olive oil, when I truly believe I could have made any of the dishes served 100% better! But being the diplomatic person you all know me to be (wink wink), I kept my big mouth shut!

After the tasting and lunch, we bid adieu to Anna and headed back to our guest house. But first a bit of provisioning at a local grocery store.

I didn’t want to go out for dinner when I had a perfectly good kitchen at my disposal. So, with some leftover Greek salad, I figured a simple fried hamburger patty would make a swell dinner.

Now, I don’t remember ever having beef ground right in front of me. When we first approached the butcher, he had a full cow carcass in front of him hanging on a hook. When I asked for ground meat, he ground us a half kilo of meat while we did our other shopping. (I should have watched the whole process, but I just couldn’t. Not while he had to take a chunk off the carcass to fulfill my request. Just too much reality for this gal.) Have yet to cook the meat but expect it to be very good. Fresh (ya think), if nothing else.

Well, that’s it for now. Think I’ll have a nice cold beer before I start dinner.

Cooking dinner was fun. Ground beef patties with just salt and pepper and Greek salad. But before I do my late-night reading in my jammies and turn out my reading lamp, I thought I might provide you with a bit of history about olive trees.

According to abea.gr “Symbol of peace, wisdom, fertility, prosperity, luck, victory. No fruit bearing tree in our land has been praised, painted, sung, as much as the olive tree. This tree, that loves the sea and the Mediterranean sun, grows even on arid and rocky soils, and survives under drought conditions and strong winds. It has accompanied the inhabitants of this land in times of both prosperity and deprivation and has left its imprint on every aspect of the cultural tradition of the Mediterranean people. In the Greek tradition, when a child is born, an olive tree is planted. The olive tree and the child will grow up together and when the child is 6 years old, the olive tree will bear its first fruit. It will grow with the family, survive through decades, and will still be there for all the coming generations to always remind us of the continuity and the evolution of life. The life expectancy of an olive tree is 300 to 600 years, yet there are olive trees more than 1,000 years old.

The history of the olive tree began around 7.000 years ago in the Mediterranean region and more precisely in the Eastern Mediterranean. It is speculated that it first appeared in Syria, as indicated by various depictions on vessels and by the multitude of myths of the people around the Mediterranean. It was Greece however, through Phoenician merchants, who brought it in the European Mediterranean area – Italy, France, Spain, Portugal – from where it spread to America and Australia.”

Friday, September 22, 2023 – Filoxenia Hotel, Monemvasia

Woke to the sound of the donkey braying and there he or she was. Our first glimpse of this handsome beast. (We had heard it braying several times before but had yet to see it.) Then when we looked outside our side window, there was a small herd of sheep coming down the hillside being “guided” by a small dog. We really are in rural Greece. Then it was packing our bags and saying good-bye to this lovely apartment. After breakfast that is. Then down the long and winding hill back towards Kalamata and a right turn towards the large city of Sparti.

Now to say this was a nice ride is like saying ice cream is an OK treat. Today’s drive to our new destination was probably the most beautiful drive we had taken in Greece so far. Greece is mainly one big mountain range. OK, there are a few flat areas, but we sure haven’t seen many of them since we arrived. But today it was saying goodbye to one large bay, go up and over the top of the world (Taygetus Mountains), and back down to the sea. This took us about 4 hours to complete a drive of about 100k. So, very slow, but with breathtaking vistas everywhere we looked. Sheer walls, deep valleys, narrow roads, you name it. Just a magnificent way to see what is undoubtedly one of the most exciting parts of visiting Greece.

We reached our hotel without any trouble. (Always a good thing!) Hard to get lost when your hotel is on the main road of a tiny village. And the view from our room of Monemvasia (the rock) is perfect.

A quick note about the name of our hotel – Filoxenia. According to therealgreek.com, “Filoxenia has deep roots in ancient Greece, where ‘xenia’ was used to describe the virtue of showing generosity and courtesy to strangers and creating a true relationship between guest and host.

In ancient times Greece’s composition was very different to today; It was composed of numerous regions and islands, each one with different dialects and customs.

Trade was what made people from all these different regions come in contact, so ‘filoxenia’ was not just about hospitality, but mainly it was like an unspoken cultural law that preserved order amongst all these people who were simultaneously locals and strangers. Everyone could find themselves in the position of the host or the guest and even more, it was thought that any stranger might be a god under disguise, ‘testing’ the locals.

Strangers, ‘xeni’, were protected by Zeus – he was named ‘Zeus Xenios’ because of that – and they were very welcome because they also brought a lot of information about the rest of the world with them.

Thoukidides writes that Pericles mentioned how Athenians kept their city ‘open’ to all, they never turned away strangers and took pride in showing them the Athenian culture and civilization.

There were moral ‘laws’ to filoxenia: all visitors were to be shown the same hospitality and treated with the same respect, regardless of their social, economic or political status. They could never draw arms to fight each other, and that obligation concerned their offspring as well!

There were also physical obligations: they had to offer guests meals, baths and sleeping quarters. They had to offer them well wishes and gifts upon their departure- ‘Xenia gifts’.

All this meant they became bonded in friendship for life, a friendship inherited by the next generations.

Today, you can see that the Greeks have these moral and physical ‘obligations’ embedded in their culture, if not their DNA! If a visitor asks a local for simple info, it is very possible that the local might appoint himself as their tour guide, taking them around town, explaining history and mythology and treating them to a Greek coffee or ‘must-try’ local treats on the way. In the islands, it is impossible for locals to see someone walking/looking around without asking them if they’d like a treat or offering them any kind of produce they have just picked.

The Greeks are proud of their homeland and love all that it has to offer, and they really want ‘xeni’ to experience that as well.”

We actually witnessed and felt “xeni”. Everyone we encountered went out of their way to be helpful and gracious. But back to our hotel.

The Filoxenia Hotel is in the town of Monemvasia. The older part of the town and municipality is located on an island (the rock) accessed only by a causeway/tombolo (historically a drawbridge) or by boat. Its area consists mostly of a large plateau (on the other side of the rock from the town and our hotel) about 330 feet above sea level and then up to an area 980 feet wide and just over a half a mile long.

Founded in the sixth century, Monemvasia is one of the oldest continually inhabited fortified towns in Europe. The town is the site of a once-powerful medievalstorical fortress and was at one point one of the most important commercial centers in the Eastern Mediterranean. The town’s walls and many Byzantine churches remain as testaments to the town’s history. 

So, tomorrow we are visiting this amazing historical treasure. But for now, it’s beer time and then the team laundress (me) must work her magic. There is simply nothing as exciting as washing underwear in a sink the size of a medium sized mixing bowl. But there is a nice drying rack right outside our deck door, so why not take advantage of it? Then a bit of relaxation because it is very hot outside with very little breeze. Then off to dinner.

Now I know there are those for whom Greek food is the be all and end all. Not me. Granted, the pastries are amazing. But one cannot live by sugar alone. When it comes to some of the meat dishes, there simply is not enough flavor for me. For example, last evening all I wanted was a simple gyro. And the meat came nicely tucked in a pita with red onion, cucumber, and tzatziki. But there was no flavor to the meat. I couldn’t even tell if the meat was beef, pork, or chicken. The tzatziki was great, but one does not live by tzatziki alone either. And some of the other traditional Greek dishes also leave much to be desired. For example – Strapatsada. Strapatsada is basically scrambled eggs with tomato sauce and feta cheese mixed in. If you are lucky, there is a bit of onion and oregano thrown in for good measure. But this is not a dish I am going to hurry home and try to duplicate. However, what I am going to try and prepare at home is Portokalopita (Traditional Greek Orange Cake with Syrup). But enough about food. It’s time for bed. Tomorrow is another day.

Saturday, September 23, 2023

After a night of shifting back and forth to keep the small top sheet and slippery bed spread equally divided over our sweaty bodies, we woke refreshed. How that could be is beyond me, but nevertheless, awake we were, and ready for another exciting day. First stop – the breakfast buffet at our hotel.

I’m not going to bore you with all the dishes that were available at this buffet. Just imagine anything and everything you could want for breakfast, and you would know exactly what was being offered. One example: for the egg portion alone. There were hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, and omelets. Take your choice or have all three. Amazing. After breakfast we went back to our room to get ready for today’s adventure.

First stop – the ticket office for the bus that would drive us to the other side of the rock. 1 euro each, each way. Worth every cent of the cost. And yes, euros come in cents. Coins come in 2-euro, 1-euro, and .50, .20, .10, and .05 cents. Very civilized. None of this penny stuff. And none of the ridiculous $9.99 either! People in Greece are obviously smarter than Americans because they have figured out that 9.95 euros is really 10 euros. It’s refreshing, I tell you! And simply displays good common sense.

Then hop on the small bus, drive over the cause way, and up and around the base of the rock. Then get off the bus and walk into a very bustling small village full of shops selling everything from wine to refrigerator magnets. And every type of restaurant, café, coffee bar, ice cream shop, fresh juice establishment, etc. that anyone’s taste buds could desire. And nice galleries selling quite unique and interesting items.

  Beautiful wooden bowls made out of olive tree wood.

A wall hanging for our bedroom painted on olive tree wood.

The handmade box our wall hanging came in. The proprietor of the gallery where we bought both the wall hanging and the bowls told us the most enjoyment he experienced from running this gallery was making the boxes for the various items being sent all over the world. The only problem with the box, was trying to get it open. It took a chisel and hammer to get anywhere near the contents. Luckily, we had brought the bowls home in our luggage, or we would have had two such boxes to open!

Then, because it was very hot and humid, we decided climbing up to the Acropolis was completely out of the question. But walking around this lovely fortress town was most enjoyable. The next few pictures show a bit of the beauty.

So, after a strawberry smoothie for me and a fresh lemonade for Andy, it was a leisurely walk back through the village and back to the mainland and the quiet and cool luxury of our room. But before that, a lovely beer to quench our thirst.

Back in our room it was writing for me and reading for Andy. I completely get the concept of siesta time. It gets incredibly hot and humid between 1:00 pm and 5:00 pm. And for those of us from an area of the world that doesn’t suffer high humidity it is especially uncomfortable. So, retreating to our room becomes a pleasure not a punishment.

But after it got a bit cooler, it was off to dinner for us. And tonight, I craved Italian food. So, we found an Italian restaurant and we shared a wonderful caprese salad, then I had pasta with mushrooms and truffle oil and Andy had risotto. All 3 dishes were delicious. Then we took a stroll over the causeway to look back at the lights in the town. Last stop – ice cream. Great finish to a grand day.   

   

PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE

Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.

Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.

Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 1 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 2, 3, 4, and 5.  So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.      

Saturday, September 9, 2023 – Camano Island

The Beatles had it right. Most weeks contain only 7 days, however, there are 8 days in a week when you are traveling. Because the day before you leave is all about getting ready for your departure. Making a list, checking it twice, adding this, re-thinking that, etc. etc. But invariably, things do not always go as planned!

First of all, our airline tickets (and I use the term “tickets” lightly) look more like an itinerary than tickets. With instructions to go online 24 hours before the flight to check in and print your boarding passes. Right! But first you must select your seats. Good luck with that. I could select seats for the first leg of our adventure (Seattle to Istanbul), but there was only 1 seat available for the second flight from Istanbul to Athens. So, no I couldn’t check in and print our boarding passes. So, I called Turkish Airlines customer service for assistance. I was told “not to worry, there would be no problem checking in and there would be seats available”. Being the worry wort that I am, I also called Skylux, the company that booked our tickets, and they said just go to check in and there would be no problem.

What both customer service people failed to tell me, was that unless you pay an additional $190 per person to choose your own seats, you get whatever seats Turkish Airlines assigns you. Had either of these people told me this, I would have been able to sleep more than 3½ hours Saturday night. But they didn’t and I tossed and turned ALL BLOODY NIGHT! (Subsequently, I learned that other airlines do the same thing now and others we met had experienced the same frustration.) So, be advised. This is the new reality. Well, until they change their ways again without any notification!

Sunday, September 10, 2023 and Monday, September 11, 2023 – Turkish Airlines and The Frogs Guest House, Athina (Athens)

We left home about 11:00 am Sunday morning. We were due at our car park by 2:00 pm. So, to provide more anxiety to my already worried self, I-405 was closed and there was a football game in Seattle starting at 1:30 pm. So, we knew traffic was going to be a mess. But we got to the car park by our appointed time, and were at the airport way before we needed to check in.

So, we waited in line, for an extra hour because our flight was delayed, with the other Business Class passengers until we were able to reach the counter and be told that we had not checked in as instructed and to just go home and forget about traveling in the 21^st century! Just kidding. Everything went as smooth as silk. We hadn’t even needed to bring along any verification of purchased tickets, etc., because all the check in lady needed was a passport from each of us.

Of course, the lovely young woman I’m sure went home that evening and told her husband that there really should be an age limit or some kind of test to make sure older people were up to date on how to use apps, understood current airline rules and regulations, and were taking valium if they wanted to travel in a world where things change every 15 minutes! But I digress…..

After obtaining our boarding passes for both flights, we headed off to pay our respects to TSA. And because we were flying Business Class, we got through TSA in about 5 minutes. So, we did what all smart people do when there are 2 hours (at least) before their flight; we went in search of a beer. And lunch. In that order!

After a nice seafood lunch, we went to the Turkish Airlines lounge and sat around until it was time to go to our gate. Where again we sat around until it was time to board our plane, a Boeing 787.

Now in all our previous overseas adventures, we had always traveled steerage (economy class). But after our last adventure in 2019 to the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, and Hungary (BC – Before Covid), we decided that next time, we would go 1^st class. For Turkish Airlines long flights, first class is called Business Class. And for those of you who have never had the opportunity, let me be the first to recommend going this route. Because for the first time ever, I could sleep during a flight. Well of course I could. I was fully stretched out flat, in my own little pod, having first been tucked in by a nice flight attendant. And the food was amazing! But a little bit of fun at the inflight “chef’s” expense.

It was touted that Turkish Air Business Class would have its own chef onboard. And sure enough, there was a gentleman walking around in full chef regalia. But, if you have ever flown on a commercial airplane, no matter its size, then you know that the galley on a plane is about the size of a half bath. And there ain’t no way in hell that any actual food preparation is ever going to happen in that galley. So that means, along with all the stewards and stewardesses, the “chef’s” responsibility was to look good and inspire confidence that the food will at least be palatable. And to help warm the entrées, place the entrées on a tray, and clean up after the trays are returned to the galley. If I had been more awake and in a snarky mood, I would have begged the “chef” for his recipe for the chicken entrée. But I showed remarkable restraint. You would have been very proud of me!

So, upon arrival at Istanbul, instead of being groggy and cranky, I was bright eyed and bushy tailed. Which is a good thing. Because landing in concourse B, we had to walk about 3 miles (actually, only about ½ mile) to concourse F for our flight to Athens. Istanbul airport is simply ginormous! And we had to walk from one end to the other!

But we got on our plane just fine, had a quick but fine dinner onboard, and arrived in Athens after only being in the air for 1 hour.

Then off the plane and prepared to stand in line for passport control for an hour or more. But for the first time ever in our travels, there was no one ahead of us and WE WERE THE FIRST PEOPLE TO GO THROUGH. All the nice man did was stamp our passports and we were on our way to wait for our baggage to appear. But again, there was no waiting. The bags were already on the carousel when we arrived. Then we went out the arrival doors in search of a taxi. But they were all lined up right in front of us, so we were only in line for about 3 minutes before we were tucked into the back seat of a cab and on our merry way to our guest house.

We were simply amazed at the efficiency we encountered at this airport. And our cabby had been very pleasant and got us safely to our destination without hitting another vehicle or person even though most of the way to our guest house he was driving at 130 k.

As we approached our accommodation, he told us we had chosen a great area of the city for our 5 nights in Athens. That it was a great low crime neighborhood with lots of restaurants and shops.

Marina, the young lady in charge of the small (3 room) guest house, restaurant, coffee shop, and bar was so gracious even though we hadn’t arrived until after 11:00 pm. She spent quite a bit of time with us, even at this late hour, explaining how things worked, and what and how the guest house could be of service. Then it was unpacking a bit, sitting out on our lovely large private deck, and then to bed.

We both slept well at first but were wide awake at about 3:00 am. Andy even got up for a while. After about 3 hours of tossing and turning, I finally went back to sleep. When I awoke at 9:47 am, Andy was sound asleep next to me. I showered then woke him up so that we could go to breakfast downstairs. (Breakfast hours were from 8-12. Terribly civilized.)

Tuesday, September 12, 2023 

After a leisurely breakfast, we went for a walk around the area. We wanted to locate where we were to be picked up the next morning for our tour to Delphi. After locating our pickup point, we headed back to our room. But first, we had our first gelato of the trip. Then back to our room for me to write, Andy to read (and take a nap), and then some reading time for both of us before dinner.

But first, a beer at one of the outdoor tables where we are staying.

Then to a restaurant in the next alley for grilled calamari (fabulous) for me and incredible pizza for Mr. C. Then back to our terrace for a bit of reading before bed. A lovely first day in Athens. Well at least it was until I tried to get to sleep.

But a good night’s sleep was not in the cards for me. I was awake most of the night. Jet lag is a real thing. And Tuesday night I had what might be called “the mother of all loss of sleep jet lag experiences”. I believe I only got about 1 hour of sleep the whole darn night.

Wednesday, September 13, 2023 (Delphi)

Up (please notice – I didn’t say “awake” because I hadn’t really slept) at the crack of dawn to pick up a sack breakfast and be on our way.  For today’s adventure, we had received a text stating that we should be at our pickup location by 7:35 am. We got there 10 minutes early and the bus picked us up at 8:05 am. Then through Athens (population over 4 million) during rush hour to stop at several other pickup locations for additional riders. (And we think Seattle has traffic problems!)

Something I need to stress at this point. Everyone in this fine city is friendly, civil, courteous, and pleasant. If you step in front of someone and say excuse me or sorry, you always get some derivation of no problem or not to worry. Even from some of the scruffiest individuals you would assume would growl at you rather than offer you a civil retort. Nope. Doesn’t happen. Everyone seems to be polite. But back to our Delphi One Day from Athens with Pickup and Lunch tour.

According to history.com (and I paraphrase) “Delphi was an ancient religious sanctuary dedicated to the Greek god Apollo. Developed in the 8th century B.C., the sanctuary was home to the Oracle of Delphi and the princess Pythis who was famed throughout the ancient world for divining the future and therefore consulted before any and all major undertakings.

It was also the home of the Pythian Games, the second most important games in Greece after the Olympics. Delphi declined with the rise of Christianity and was ultimately buried under the site of a new village until the late 1800s. Located about six miles from the Gulf of Corinth in the territory of Phoics, Delphi is situated between the two towering rocks of Mount Parnassus known as the Phaidriades (Shining) Rocks.

The site contains the remains of the sanctuary of Apollo, the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia — meaning, “Athena who is before the temple (of Apollo)” — and various other buildings, most of which were intended for sports, such as the gymnasium used for exercise and learning.

When visitors approached Delphi, the first structure they saw was the sanctuary of Athena. This sanctuary contained the most characteristic monument at Delphi: Tholos, a circular building with a conical roof supported by a ring of outer columns.

Visitors would then walk along the Sacred Way, a path to the sanctuary of Apollo that was lined with treasuries and votive monuments. Given that Delphi was a pan-Hellenic sanctuary, it was not controlled by any one Greek city-state and instead was a sanctuary for all Greeks. The individual city-states constructed the treasuries as offerings to Apollo and to show off their power and wealth.

The central and most important part of Delphi was the temple of Apollo, where Pythia delivered her prophetic words in the adyton, a separate, restricted room at the rear. The temple of Apollo sat atop a large terrace supported by a polygonal wall.

The Sacred Way also led to the theatre of Delphi above the temple and the stadium (for athletic contests) further up. Delphi also contained settlements and cemeteries, which were built outside and around the two sanctuaries.

Greeks considered Delphi the center (or navel) of the world.

This sacred stone represented the “navel” of the world.

According to Greek mythology, Zeus sent out two eagles, one to the east and the other to the west, to find the navel of the world. The eagles met at the future site of Delphi. Zeus marked the spot with a sacred stone called the omphalos (meaning navel), which was later held at the sanctuary of Apollo. Greeks believed the site was originally sacred and belonged to Gaea, or Mother Earth, and was guarded by Gaea’s serpent child, Python. Apollo killed Python and founded his oracle there.

According to legend, natives of the island of Crete, accompanied by Apollo in the guise of a dolphin, arrived at the port of Delphi (Kirrha) and built the god’s sanctuary.”

The stadium

From the stadium looking down on the sanctuary of Apollo.

Pictures inside the Delphi Museum.

This “navel” was inside the museum.

One of the elaborate statues in the museum.

Although the tour got off to a rocky start (the bus was late getting to our stop and the time going through the narrow streets of Athens) the tour itself was a pleasure. We had an excellent tour guide, the scenery along the way was spectacular, and our fellow travelers were civil and friendly. And the lunch that was selected for us was delicious, but way too much food for this gal. But the beer was great and frosty cold. The lunch was so substantial that our dinner that evening consisted of 2 scoops of gelato each. Then back to our room to read a bit. And for me, an early to bed having taken a Tylenol PM to make sure I slept the whole night through.

Thursday, September 14, 2023 (The Acropolis)

According to whc.unesco.org. “The Acropolis of Athens and its monuments are universal symbols of the classical spirit and civilization and form the greatest architectural and artistic complex bequeathed by Greek Antiquity to the world. In the second half of the fifth century bc, Athens, following the victory against the Persians and the establishment of democracy, took a leading position amongst the other city-states of the ancient world. In the age that followed, as thought and art flourished, an exceptional group of artists put into effect the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman Pericles and, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument of thought and the arts. The most important monuments were built during that time: the Parthenon, built by Ictinus, the Erechtheon, the Propylaea, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis, designed by Mnesicles and the small temple Athena Nike.” 

But before we visit this amazing wonder of the ancient world, a bit of reality about some of the problems of our modern world: Slept like the dead. Good thing too, because today things did not go as planned. Oh, we got a good enough start, but we always forget that taking public transportation (in this case Metro, the underground trains) in a foreign city means figuring out:

1) the location of the nearest underground station (and in this case, also the above ground trains running to other large cities).

2) how to buy a ticket

3) how to use the ticket

4) how to find the right platform

5) which side of the tracks you need

6) how to transfer to a different line and which way to your destination

7) and then once you are at the right destination, which set of stairs to use to get where you need to be

Well, we made it to where we thought we should be, gave our names to the tour leaders and found that they did not have our names listed. I even checked their handwritten lists. We were not on the lists, so we assumed we were at the wrong place.

Turns out after much checking, going to what we thought was the booking office, we were in the right place at the right time to begin with. For whatever reason, our names were not on their handwritten list. So, no guided walking tour of the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. Out $244.80 and told no way to get a refund. Well, we’ll just see about that! I plan to provide Trip Adviser with the following information:

We were at the appointed place on time. I gave the 2 ladies and one young man our names and even checked the handwritten lists myself. At which point we left thinking this couldn’t possibly be our tour. Wrong! It was our group. 

Just before 11:00 am we went back to the meeting place and were approached by 2 women from tour groups asking if we were looking for something. We told them our predicament and asked if we could join the group for the museum part of the tour. They did some checking, asked if I remembered what the 2 ladies and 1 young man looked like, and told us to wait at the museum entrance for the 11:30 am tour booking for the museum. We got there 25 minutes early and never saw a group that had these 3 people in it. So, we gave up, bought tickets for the museum, and thanks to Rick Steves and his comments in our guidebook, had a marvelous time touring the museum on our own.

Please enjoy the pictures of some of our favorite statues etc. in the Acropolis Museum.

At 2:00 pm we decided we had seen what we wanted to see, and that a nice cold beer would make everything better. So, we headed back to the Psyrri neighborhood where we were staying to have a bite at the local Turkish restaurant. And even though we may not know what we are doing the first-time round, we can learn. We caught the Metro, and traversed the many levels, line change, entrances and exits like seasoned pros. And soon we were back in Psyrri and ordering a well-deserved meal.

Since ancient times, the Psyrri neighborhood was populated by artisans and you could once find many craftsmen’s shops belonging to potters, sculptors, tailors, etc. In many ways, this tradition continues today, and you can still see many small shops and boutiques selling handmade objects or accessories, as well as art galleries displaying the works of contemporary artists.

For a very long time, Psyrri was not a trendy area. It was mainly a place where people lived and worked, so it did not offer any particular attraction. During the first years following the War of Independence, many people moved to Athens from the countryside and from the islands, and this area became their new home. 

This now colorful and vibrant neighborhood received a facelift before the Olympic Games in 2004 and is now considered “gentrified”. Filled with fashionable bars, hip restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife, Psyrri is a fun area to explore by day or by night.

Granted, you won’t find museums or ancient monuments to visit while you are in this area, but Psyrri certainly has a lot of sights that attract hundreds of visitors.

For us, Psyrri’s most striking feature is that it truly is a real open-air street art gallery. Covered walls, store and house facades, parking lots and everything in between. Graffiti is everywhere in Psyrri. From colorful murals covering an entire facade to small doodles, you will find it all. While some have no artistic value, others convey a message or adorn the walls with a sense of beauty. And of utmost importance – WE LOVE IT HERE!

After our tall beers and some wonderful Turkish food, we came back to our room to relax, read, write, and do a bit of research for tomorrow’s fun filled adventure. We are going to see the sights from the open-air top level of a Hop On Hop Off bus. We have used these buses before and have always enjoyed the ride. So, if all goes well, we will be able to find one of the stops and our printed tickets will be valid. After today’s fiasco, anything is possible. But regardless, we are loving our time in Athens. Well, that’s all for now. It is cooling off nicely and I think I’ll go join Andy on our private balcony while we wait until we are hungry enough to even consider dinner. And as far as weather goes, it’s been warm, but not enough to cause us any inconvenience. And our room is air-conditioned.

After hanging around our room for a while, we decided to head out at about 8 o’clock for dinner. Since we had eaten a late lunch, we decided a couple appetizers would be perfect. And since we had dined at the Turkish restaurant for lunch and been told there would be live music that evening, and Andy was craving saganaki anyway, we returned there for dinner. The appetizers we ordered (saganaki, tzatziki, and cheese croquettes) were OK, but they were not as good as we had in Turkey and not as good as I can make at home. So, that was a bit disappointing. What wasn’t disappointing however, was the live music, the ambience, the people watching, the dancing, and the general joy de vie.

The music consisted of a drum and bass track, a live keyboard player/singer, a live bouzouki player/singer, and a live lead singer. The bouzouki player and lead singer were fabulous. The keyboard player was OK, but then I’m kind of spoiled when it comes to keyboard players. But the overall effect was of a fun and musically talented group.

When we got there, and after the first song we heard, we clapped for the group. We were the only ones clapping. But after that, others joined in, and the musicians seemed to be very pleased and grateful for us showing others the way to show respect and curtesy to any musician or group of musicians who are playing good live music well. And several songs later, they played the theme song from the movie Zorba the Greek. Well, that brought out the dancers. Right there on the street, where occasional cars, small trucks, and motorcycles seemed to think they had a right to the street too! But first I need to set the stage a bit.

It is not at all unusual, on very narrow side streets and alleys, for there to be dining tables on both sides of the street or alley. So, waiters and the dining public tend to feel they have first rights to the area. Cars, etc. are mainly just an inconvenience that must be dealt with. So, when a few people decided to participate in the circular line dance popularized by the Zorba soundtrack, and I associate with the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding, everyone was clapping and enjoying the show. It was truly a magical moment to be even a small part of that scene. People of all walks of life (foreigners, visitors like us, children, waiters, etc.) sharing a special time on a lovely September evening.

At about 9:30 pm, with people waiting for tables, we decided to give up our spot and head back to our room. What a grand experience that I hope I will remember for a very long time to come. Greece is just a fabulous country to visit.

Friday, September 15, 2023 (The National Archaeological Museum)

Woke up after kind of a restless night for both of us. But we had plans for today and wanted to get going at a reasonable time. So, at about 10:00 am we were out the door and off to where we knew was the closest Hop On Hop Off point. We just missed a bus and the next one didn’t come for about 45 minutes. (They are supposed to come every 15 minutes. But in the crazy traffic in Athens, I’m surprised they can get around as quickly as they do.) So, we waited and waited, and finally one arrived. Completely full and for several stops we both were standing. When we got to the stop for the Acropolis, we finally got seats and we could relax on the covered upper level until we could get off at the stop for the National Archaeological Museum. Our destination for today.

But fate was not with us, because even though the driver verbally named the stop, there wasn’t one and therefore we missed our chance to escape. So, we got off at the next stop, luckily only a few blocks away, and hoofed our way to the museum.

Now this is one of the most prestigious archaeological museums in the world and houses some of the most important artifacts from a variety of archaeological locations around Greece from prehistory to late antiquity. And worth every tired bone in our feet, legs, and lower back.

But knowing our limitations, after about 3 hours, we were out the massive doors and headed back to catch yet another crowded Hop On Hop Off bus. At least we got seats. But this bus did not have a cover, so we sweated through 3 stops until we were finally released just a few blocks from our guest house. But first a beer! Then back for Andy to read and me to catch up on my trip report. But now it’s time for dinner. So, to be continued.

This evening we were smart enough to ask the lovely young lady in the bar, guest house reception area, coffee shop, breakfast café, cab reservations, directions to Metro, etc. (you name it, they can help you) for the name of a great restaurant in the area. She directed us, literally with written instructions, to Karamanlidika. Which turns out to be affordable and served amazing food. With an “on the house” tiny plate of pastrami and cheese and an after dinner “on the house” small plate of yogurt topped with a sweetened topping containing carrot. What? Something that delicious mainly made with carrots. Can’t be. But our server assured us that the orange stuff in the marmalade like concoction was indeed the lowly carrot.

And our Greek salad and entrées had been fabulous. I had kefke (large meatballs) and Andy a ground steak (beef and lamb) that neither of us could finish. And we hadn’t even had lunch. Amazing food. And as it turned out, the food was Turkish rather than Greek. And from the Cappadocia region of Turkey. One of our favorite places on earth. Never heard of Cappadocia? Look it up. You won’t be disappointed.

Then back to the guest house to pack for a 9:00 am departure from this amazing guest house and the city of Athens. Except for all the people, cars, motorbikes, buses, and trucks of every shape and style, this would be a perfect place to live.

Saturday, September 16, 2023 – Anavalos Hotel – Kiveri 

With a little help from my friends (back to the Beatles again), Marina at our guest house on Friday morning had ordered a taxicab for us for 9:00 am Saturday morning. We left this wonderful establishment with mixed feelings. We were eager to see new and exciting parts of Greece and to leave this busy city behind. But it was a bit sad to say goodbye to the wonderful people at the guest house. They were so helpful and kind to not only us, but every person with whom they came in contact. They had a plaque by the bottom of the stairs up to our room that read “May the next pandemic be love”. That pretty much says it all about this place. Everything was earth friendly, from the bamboo straws to the sources of the food they served. So, we were sad to leave, and they seemed sad to see us go.

But promptly at 9:00 am our cab arrived. I would have hugged everyone goodbye, but I had been feeling a cold coming on. Scratchy throat and a bit listless. (I blamed the lethargy on the heat and residual jet lag.) When the cabby asked where we wanted to be dropped off at the airport, we told him the arrival hall. His response – which one? Our paperwork only said that a man with a sign would be waiting for us in the arrival hall. Well, that was not enough for our cabby, so he decided he was going to get this straightened out for us. So, he called our car rental place, and got instructions for how to drop us off at the rental location. This saved us about 30 euros and much frustration. Andy figured that the instructions to meet in the arrival hall were probably a generic statement that appeared on every printed reservation.

So, like I said, with a little help from our friends (this time our taxi driver), we were all signed in and on our way in our brand-new Audi. Stick shift and all. I was actually amazed that they didn’t ask us if we even knew how to drive a a manual transmission. They must have considered our ages and assumed that we probably learned to drive on a stick shift car. And they would have been correct. But that was long ago and far away! Things have changed dramatically. This car tells you when it’s time to manually shift gears. And you really don’t have to remember to turn your lights on or off. This car does it for you automatically. We noticed this first when we went through a tunnel. Andy was looking for the lights lever, and the lights were already on. And you should hear the fuss the car makes when you forget to buckle your seat belt. And God help you if you inadvertently lock your steering wheel. We had to ask for help with that one. Thus, the consequence of Andy not having buckled up and the car alarm going ballistic when we started rolling down the road. You’d have thought we had just committed an egregious offence. But it’s all in the learning process. And all this fun just on the first day with this car. I can’t wait until later when we take the car up hill and down. (Actually, yes, I can!)

But on the roads, the signage (so far) has been marvelous. We couldn’t have gone wrong unless we had tried to miss a turn. And one of the many features of our drive today was crossing the Corinth Canal.

According to theculturetrip.com (and I paraphrase) “The Corinth Canal is a waterway that crosses the narrow isthmus of Corinth to link the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf. As such, the canal separates the Greek mainland from the Peloponnese, turning it into an island. 
The Corinth Canal is an important navigational route which once allowed ships to enter the Aegean Sea. Dug through the isthmus at sea level, the canal is 6.4 k long with a width of only 25 meters. Impossible for modern ships to go through, the canal has now lost any significant economic importance it once had. The canal, though executed in the late 19th century, had been a 2000-year-old dream. Before its construction, ships in the Aegean Sea that wanted to cross to the Adriatic or anchor in Corinth, a rich shipping city, had to circle the Peloponnese Peninsula, which would prolong their journey an extra 185 nautical miles.

In the 1830s, the newly appointed governor of Greece after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, was the first to reconsider the idea of the canal. However, at an estimated cost of 40 million French francs, the project was too expensive for the newly established state. It was only in 1869 that the Parliament authorized the government to allow a private company to build the Canal of Corinth. Work began in 1882, but the Austrian company’s budget was insufficient for the task. So, the project was paused, with it restarting in 1890 by a Greek company with a capital of five million francs. This time, the job was completed, and the canal was used for the first time on October 28, 1893.”

Andy had mapped our route so well, and had all the details in his head, that we arrived early at our hotel. And what a place this is! Absolutely beautiful. A gorgeous room with a perfect view of Argolida Bay and across the bay the city of Naplio. Below our room is a beautiful swimming pool and further down the hill a short path down to the water if you fancy a dip in the salty Argolic Gulf.

Across the water is the town of Nafplio.

We then found our way around the small village of Kiveri and to a lovely fish restaurant with only 6 or 7 wrong turns. And the fried calamari was fabulous and the setting could not have been more attractive. We were on a high shaded patio with the water basically lapping at the sea wall just below us.

Then back to our room for Andy to take a swim and me to do some writing. My throat is still sore, but with no other symptoms. A little bit tired, but I think that is mainly from the heat.

Then take a nap in our comfy lounge chairs on our deck and off to dinner. Great Greek food and then a bit of a read and an early to bed. This is the life!

Now, this is not a trip report that I would expect anyone would enjoy who doesn’t know us personally. Because it was a short trip, with dear friends, but nothing amazing happened. Of course, there are some pictures, but again, nothing that would have much interest to someone who expects dazzling photographs or scintillating documentation regarding a 9-day world class adventure. That did not happen on this trip.

What happened was fun, friendship, lots of laughs, beautiful scenery, and a memory that I can re-visit when I can no longer get my old body into a travel trailer.

So, do come along if you would like. I love to share my wonderful life with each and every one of you. But don’t hold it against me if you are bored to tears from day 2!  

Monday, August 7,2023 – Dosewallips State Park (SP), site 86 – Brinnon, Washington 

  

Great site – lots of room between trailers.

Every other first day of a trailer trip in our 32 years of trailering has been different from this one. Normally, we get as early a start as we can. (Usually about 10:00 am.) Today however, Andy had a gig at the Angel of the Winds casino from 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. So, after playing for a 4-hour gig, carting his piano equipment out to the car as quickly as possible (through the casino security area), and then us driving home in our Prius as quickly as possible, we were able to climb in our truck and leave home by about 4:05 pm. Then a quick 5-minute drive to the trailer storage area to batten down the inside of the trailer, hook up the trailer to the truck, and be on our way. To our amazement, we beat our expected 5:00 pm departure time by 15-minutes. So, at 4:45 pm we were able to hit the road.

Luckily for us our guardian angels must have been being extremely diligent, because although we did encounter some slowdowns through Everett, we got to the Edmonds ferry dock by about 5:45 pm. In time to get in line for the 6:15 pm crossing. And to our surprise and delight, the boat was only about half full, so no waiting for the next ferry for this grateful couple.

Then smooth sailing for the 30-minute crossing and on to camp which only took about an hour. We reached our destination while there was still light, it wasn’t raining or snowing, it was warm enough to not need even a light jacket, and with good friends Craig and Marsha as our welcoming committee.

After we got all set up, Marsha provided us with some lovely snacks to tide us over until breakfast. I had enjoyed some flatbread pizza at the casino for lunch, but Mr. C. had only had time for a bite. So, while we were on the ferry ride, we had a bit of fried chicken that I had also purchased at the casino. But by 8:30 pm after getting the trailer ready for habitation, we were both a bit peckish. So, Marsha’s nibbles were much appreciated. Then it was a safe arrival drink, get caught up with each other’s lives for a short bit, and off to bed.

Tuesday, August 8, 2023 – Dosewallips State Park

After a good night’s sleep, we woke to some clouds, but it was still very warm. What a difference from our spring trip where our furnace ran 24/7. In fact, all the windows stayed wide open all night, and our wonderful Fantastic Fan, which can either gently blow air into the trailer or remove air from within the trailer was still happily doing its thing.

After breakfast, we joined Marsha and Craig for more coffee and a discussion of what we should do later in the day to move our bodies. It is ever so easy while camping to find that your bottom has become permanently attached to your camp chair. So, it behooves one to make a special effort to resist the temptation to become a slug. So, we decided to visit a couple of close-by areas that featured short, scenic walks.

Our first destination was Seal Rock National Forest which is located on the shore at the mouth of Dabob Bay. Just a very short walk with interpretive signs here and there explaining what exactly it was that we were seeing. Then another short walk down to the beach where there were several large rocks close to the water that were conveniently placed to accommodate 4 butts.

We stayed there for about 30 minutes just enjoying the shade provided by overhanging trees, and of course the waves lapping at the shore. Then it was off to Falls View to take another short walk to see the 300-foot drop of water. Which at this time of year, actually was just a drop of water. I’m sure in the spring the falls would be spectacular. But at this time of year, it is barely a trickle. It was still fun to see because the trail is right along a cliff edge. For me, having obviously been a buzzard in a former life, I love heights. But for some, the shear wall that you can’t really see while you are standing in the fenced area viewing the falls might be a bit intimidating. I loved it!

Marsha, Craig, and me at the falls.

Then it was back to camp. Andy decided to take a hike, Craig did some practicing on his trumpet and some exercise, and Marsha and I did some jazzercize outside our trailer. I’m not sure our neighbors enjoyed seeing two older women throwing their bodies around, but at our ages, who cares what people think!

View of our trailer from the ridge behind us while Andy was on his hike.

Then another gathering at Craig and Marsha’s trailer in their comfy camp chairs until about 4:30, at which time I decided it was time to go back to our trailer and start making the pasta dish I was serving for dinner.

Someone had a sense of humor when they built this bridge!

Then it was happy hour, dinner, conversation, and bed at about 10:00 pm for me. Whenever it was that Mr. C. came to bed, I was not a witness. All I know is that at some point during the night I woke up and it was raining lightly, and Mr. C. was next to me in bed. Not a bad combination.

Wednesday, August 9, 2023 – Dosewallips State Park

Woke up early (about 6:00 am) and tried to go back to sleep. Not happening. So, when Andy got up at about 6:30 am, I lay in bed until after he had his shower. I was still fighting the urge to get up when the smell of coffee lifted me right out of bed the way Snuffles, the floating, treat loving dog did in the cartoon series Quick Draw McGraw. So, now I’m awake, but only barely.

But there is just something about that morning cup that gets me going. And since Marsha was providing the main part of breakfast, I decided to start writing this trip report. And that’s just where you find me at this point. To be continued.

Just got back from enjoying a wonderful repast. A delicious frittata, plus fruit supplied by Marsha, and muffins and breakfast bread that I brought along for this trip. (We do not starve when we are on trailer trips. Actually, we eat like royalty!)

After breakfast Craig and Marsha decided to go for a bike ride, Andy for a hike, and me to catch up on email, Facebook, and this post.

One of my greatest pleasures is writing. And where some might find keeping a travel diary a chore, it brings me joy. Because my ability to bring up dates, places, events, and even people is becoming a challenge. Not that I am suffering from dementia (at least I don’t think I have that affliction yet), never-the-less, my memory is not as good as it was even a year ago. So, being able to re-live our trips in this manor is wonderful. And yes, I do go back and read about past adventures. And I’m sure as I grow older and less able to keep making memories, I will read about my past life even more frequently.

Well, it’s time to pause again. I realized this morning that I had not even cracked a book yesterday. Which for me is like forgetting to eat all day! So, you guessed it. I’m going to take my book outside and read until it’s time to either make lunch or take a nap. Whichever comes first, matters not!   

After Andy’s hike and everyone was ready for another outing, we decided to take the road (and I use the term “road” loosely) up to the top of Mt. Walker which purportedly has magnificent views overlooking Quilcene Bay. Whereas it was sunny in camp, just as we were reaching the top of Mt. Walker, we became part of the cloud. So, needless to say, there was no view to be seen either at the North or South viewpoint. So, down we drove having seen a lot of trees, spent rhododendron flowers, bracken, and a lone dandelion.

Then a bit of relaxation, dinner, and an early to bed.

Thursday, August 10, 2023 – Dosewallips State Park

Well, not every morning while on the road are we lucky enough to view elk grazing on the grass just outside our trailer. But today was our lucky day. (We should have gone out and bought a lottery ticket! Which we never do, but you know what I mean.) Not only were the elk close enough to easily capture with my cell phone camera, but they also appeared to be in no hurry to make their way through camp.  

Morning visitors. Not in the bit afraid of us. A couple of days later however, with several children running around, the elk did not stick around. Funny how that works.

Now I don’t know about you, but this is only the second time in 32 years of trailering that elk have graced us with their presence in such an up close and personal way. Of course, we have seen elk on our way to and from campgrounds over the years. But never so close that I was considering naming each of the ladies. And yes, they were all cows. And without doubt, there have been elk in other campgrounds we have visited. But they were obviously too shy to reveal themselves. So, today’s visit was a rare treat for us. And speaking of treats……

Today was the day we were going to drive up to Sequim to visit our good friends Pete and Anne. They had moved to Sequim from the Seattle area a couple of years previously and were eager for us to come for a visit. So, while camping in the area, we contacted them before leaving to see if they were up for a visit. They said yes, and a plan was made.

So, at 9:00 am we left camp for our 10:00 am arrival time.

Oh, what a lovely time we spent with these two incredible people. Talented, smart, thoughtful, caring individuals full of joie de vivre. We viewed all the wonderful things they had done to the property they bought. A huge amount of fencing to protect their extensive gardens from deer. Re-doing the split-log siding on their house. Generally making upgrades to meet their needs and desires. And then we had lunch. Grilled steak, home grown and dug up that morning potatoes cooked on the grill, green beans just harvested, and freshly picked grilled zucchini. Amazing. Just a perfect way to better get to know folks with whom we hope to become even closer in the near future.

Then back in our truck for the ride back to camp. Then a bit of reading, walking, and dinner with Craig and Marsha at a local café.

Then back to camp for a couple rousing rounds of Yahtzee (first time for me). Fun game. Then back to our trailer for a bit of reading before lights out. All in all, a fantastic day.

I love seeing the world. But I still feel that the Pacific NW is the best place on earth to live. We are well and truly blessed.

Friday, August 11, 2023 – Dosewallips State Park

Well, today was a special day. Marsha’s birthday. So, a day to celebrate!

After a quiet day of short walks and bicycle riding for some, we headed out for a walk through the Whitney Gardens and Nursery in Brinnon.

These amazing and beautiful gardens were established in 1955. A majestic seven-acre garden at the foot of the Olympic Mountains. Rare trees, ponds, and a stunning array of rhododendron hybrids and species. Also, an abundance of azaleas, magnolias, maples, conifers, kalmias, camelias, perennials, shrubs, and ground covers. Well worth the visit if you are in the area.

Andy and Craig at Whitney Gardens

Then on to the Port Townsend Vineyards in (you guessed it) beautiful Port Townsend. (Fancy name, right!) Anyway, we were there to hear a small jazz trio and of course sample a bit of the liquid offerings.

Mr. C., Craig, and Marsha had known the guitar/harmonica/vocalist Chuck Easton for decades. So, it was nice for them to re-connect a bit. And we all found the music very listenable. But we didn’t stay for their full performance because we had reservations at Silverwater Cafe at 5:30 pm which we did not want to miss. And boy am I glad we were able to get a last-minute reservation because the food and service were both outstanding.

Marsha’s sister had eaten at the restaurant just a couple of weeks earlier so on her recommendation, we went in expecting a wonderful meal and were not disappointed.

After a wonderful celebratory dinner, it was back to camp and a bit of reading until our pillows left us no choice but to give in to their beckoning call.

Saturday, August 12, 2023 – Rest A While RV Park, Hoodsport, WA – site waterfront 22

Just a bit too close together for us. (We are the Creekside behind the maroon truck.) But the canal was just across from us, so that made the site OK. Craig and Marsha were next to us too. That made the whole time at this private campground better than OK!

The canal looking south.

Hood Canal looking north.

After 5 nights at Dosewallips SP, it was time to move to our new location further down 101. Since we were within an hour’s drive of Hoodsport, we were in no hurry to de-camp. So, after a leisurely breakfast, and another visitation from a couple of elk, we were on our way by about high noon.

After an uneventful but scenic drive of about 22 miles, we were in camp. (Far from some of the exhaustive drives between camps we have experienced in the past.)

We had never before had the pleasure of camping at the Rest A While RV Park. And although we were right on Hood Canal, the sites were so close I could have yelled out our kitchen window and asked to borrow a bit of sugar from Marsha, without ever leaving the privacy of our own trailer. To say the sites were cozy would be an understatement. They were, if I remember correctly, the narrowest RV sites we had experienced in 32 years of trailer travel. But the sites had full hookups, which after 5 nights without dumping grey or black water, were very much appreciated. So, immediately after setting up camp, we made good use of the full hook-up facilities. Then it was stay in camp, read, write, and generally let lethargy be our guiding force.

Sunday, August 13, 2023 – Rest A While RV Park

Woke to sunny skies and the promise of another hot day. The temperatures here are actually warmer than Seattle or our neck of the woods. Which to me seems backwards. We are on the peninsula for goodness’ sake. And right on the water. But it’s hot. Not just a little bit hot, but about 88-degrees. But with the air-conditioner blasting away, no problems. And just like on Camano Island, it cools way down at night. So, no need to run the air all night. Just open the windows and let mother nature cool everything down.

After a quiet morning we headed out for a couple of simple hikes. Our first adventure was on the Duckabush River, past the Interrorem Cabin, and a short interpretive hike in this wonderful 2^nd growth forest. Then up the road for a bit of a hike to Murhut Falls. Because the trail was a bit much for me, I stayed with the truck while Marsha, Craig, and Andy hit the trail. I walked the road we had driven up so that I too got some exercise. Then it was back into camp for a bit of lunch.

After lunch we decided to visit the Hoodsport Winery which specializes in fruit wines. After paying an exorbitant price for a wild blackberry wine, we headed up to Lake Cushman.

I had never seen this lake and for Craig and Marsha it was a visit to an area of the state where Craig’s parents had lived for about 20 years after their retirement. Then Craig and Marsha took a dip in the lake while we viewed the lake and surrounding mountains from the comfort of our comfy camp chairs.

Then back to camp to prep for dinner, eat too much food, and sit by the water until it was almost dark. Another wonderful day in paradise.

Monday, August 14, 2023 – Rest A While RV Park

Some nights are just easier than others. Last night’s sleep was not pleasant. Not because it was too warm, or I didn’t feel well, or there was something on my mind. Oh no, nothing that simple. From about mid-calf down, my legs and feet were itchy and on fire. I don’t know what species of pest found my legs to be tasty targets, but something got me good and proper. I tried both anti-itch products we had on hand before going to bed. But an hour later I was still miserable, and the products hadn’t helped a bit. So, I got out of bed and slathered the area with my face lotion, and that helped a bit. I was able to get to sleep. However, after about 2 hours, I was awake again and slathering on more lotion. Then back to bed for another quick 2-hour “rest”. So, was I refreshed in the morning? Not a chance. But I made it through the day without a nap. I only mention that, because the other three members of our party (names withheld to protect the guilty) all gave in and spent a bit of time in the arms of Morpheus.

Craig with his mighty bug zapper. And yes, bugs go up in a blaze of glory when caught. But the zapper is not very effective when it comes to no-seeums. (These insidious little bugs must have a real name. But I have never liked them well enough to become that familiar with their real name!)

Well, I would love to say that today was exciting and amazing. But I can’t. We did try to find a beach where we could sit in the shade while contemplating life and why there are some who would still vote for Trump, but no perfect place presented itself. So, we stopped for a beverage and a small lunch at the Hama Hama Oyster Saloon. But even eating our lunch in a shady spot, it was so hot we just wanted to go back to camp and the comfort of our air-conditioned trailers.

When it was time for dinner, we grilled some prawns and assorted veggies, and called it an early night.

Tuesday, August 15, 2023 – Rest A While RV Park

Slept really well and even though the outside temperature never dipped under 70, we slept in comfort with only our Fantastic Fan providing a lovely breeze from above. No need for the air-conditioner to be its noisy self all night.

Then it was get up, shower, fix breakfast, and prepare the trailer for not only departure, but a thorough cleaning of its unmentionable elimination system. (The grey water and black water tanks.)

Usually this is not such an onerous task. But this is our last trailer trip of the year, so we needed to REALLY clean the tanks in preparation for the winterization process. Now this is never a pleasant task. But it was already beastly hot, so we just wanted it to be done so we could be on our way home.

After cleaning, saying our goodbyes to Craig and Marsha, our wonderful travel companions for this trip, we left camp at 10:50 am. Made good time getting home. But boy was it a workout schlepping all of our perishables, toiletries, pillows, and other essentials from the trailer to our house. Oh, once we got things in the truck, getting to our house was no problem. But because it was 3:45 in the afternoon and the temperature was over 90 degrees, and where we store our trailer is in the corking sun, we were beat by the time we unlocked our front door.

But the heat pump was happily doing it’s thing and our kitties were so very glad to see us.

After all the refrigerator and freezer items were tucked away, we pretty much gave up on making another run to the trailer to fetch all the remaining items that needed to be brought home.

There comes a time when it is wise to know when enough is enough. And we had reached that point. And of course, tomorrow was another day. But even if we were ready to be home, we agreed that we will be glad to be in our trailer again next spring. Because seeing all the great places you can visit while towing a trailer or driving an RV, is just so wonderful.

You have your own bed. Your own bathroom. Your own ice cream bars whenever the mood strikes! And what can ever be better than that!

Peace and love and happy camping to all.         

The first thing I must say about this post is that if you are a person who only looks at the pictures on my travel reports, you might as well stop reading right now. Because this was not a trailer trip for taking lots of pretty pictures. Oh, don’t get me wrong, we saw lots of beautiful sights. And there are pictures. Some pretty darn exciting. But if it wasn’t raining, it was snowing, or blowing. Not the kind of weather conducive to taking lengthy walks, getting out of the truck to capture the moment, or spending an inordinate amount of time in the fresh air. Because on this trip the air was mostly filled with some kind of precipitation. More rain than snow, thank God, but leaking clouds none the less. And wind. Quite a few days with wind. Enough that twice the chokes, that restrict our trailer wheels from moving while we are parked and allowing our trailer to run off on its own, were displaced.

But, if you like pictures of a trailer surrounded by 3-4 inches of snow, a herd of deer surrounding said trailer, a barge going through the lock on the Little Goose Dam on the Snake River, pictures of the Palouse Falls, and augmented reality sculptures, then you will just have to put up with my verbose documentary to get to the pictures. (Life isn’t always fair. Get over it!)

Also please be informed that this is basically a trip diary for us to relive our adventures when we are in our dotage. Definitely not a travel log written by an expert who only sticks to the facts about the sights he or she has visited. So, don’t be surprised if I talk about what we ate. Or the friends we met along the way. Or personal favorites. Or the one RV resort I would highly dissuade anyone from visiting even if that person were an NRA executive. (And that is saying something!) This is simply a personal report on our spring trailer trip.

So, for those of you who enjoy reading a bit about another person’s perception of life on the road, continue reading. Or enjoy learning a few interesting facts about some of the sites and sights we saw on our travels, keep reading. But if you only want pictures and cannot begin to fathom the joy of living for a month in a trailer that has less walkable space than your half bath, click on the “get me out of here” button and be on your merry way. But regardless, as always, peace and love to all. (And like I said, there are pictures. Just not as many as usual.)

Tuesday, March 28, 2023 – Fort Casey State Park, site 34

Our campsite, a ferry about to dock, and a look from the campground over the water towards Pt. Townsend and the Olympic Mountains.

There is always something exciting about gathering our last-minute items (toiletries, pillows, and the like) to add to all the other paraphernalia and consumables we have already stuffed into the trailer in preparation for yet another adventure. We have been trailering now for over 30 years. (And yes, time does fly when you’re having fun!) But this morning, as I glanced out our east facing windows, I wondered, and not for the first time, why we ever left home?! Because the mountains were glorious in all their snow-capped splendor. Port Susan Bay was shimmering in the sunlight. And the clouds that had dared to show themselves on such a splendid day, were few and far between. In other words, it was a perfect day to realize for maybe the umpteenth time how very lucky we are to live in such an amazing part of our state. So, why in the world would we want to go wandering dragging a small trailer over hill and dale? Of course, the answer came to me just as it always does. To see more of this glorious part of our world before we get to the stage where the only wheels that go round and round are on our wheelchairs! So, with that thought in mind, it was off we went. And to our first destination – Fort Casey State Park.

Now, if you have never visited Whidbey Island then you have never taken the Port Townsend ferry. And if you have never taken the Port Townsend ferry, then you have never seen the RV park that is situated adjacent to the ferry dock. And if you have never stayed at the park, then you have missed out on a delightful camping experience. Because who isn’t in love with ferries? OK, maybe our dear friend Susie is no longer enamored with ferries, having been an employee of the ferry system for decades, her last assignment being captain. But for the rest of us, there is just something magical about watching ferries come and go, and better yet, riding one to a fun location.

Plus, for us, coming such a short distance from home for our first night out is a blessing. Because, for us, un-winterizing a trailer is always an exasperating experience. Will everything still work after the winter break between our fall trip and our spring trip? Will we remember (even with detailed instructions) how to fill the hot water heater with water before we turn it on go? For normal people, this is not a problem. But neither Andy nor I were blessed with exceptional mechanical skills. Oh, we were blessed in other areas. I can cook and Andy can play the piano. But how to change a lightbulb or which way is righty tightie, lefty loosie is still of reoccurring concern! But, with the kind of luck only granted to people missing natural mechanical tendencies, not only did everything work, but we also managed once again to achieve hot water. Life is good!

After that, read awhile, then cook dinner, read some more, and an early to bed. First day out – magnificent!

Wednesday, March 29, 2023 – Fort Casey State Park, site 34

Well, do you ever have a day where the only thing to report is sleeping, eating, a walk (for one of us), and dinner at a fine restaurant with friends? If not, you should really give it a try! Because that was our day today, and it was WONDERFUL. Absolutely wonderful!

The day started as it always does, with a hearty breakfast. Then Andy decided to take a walk and I decided to take my book and visit the great out-of-doors to watch the Kennewick come and go. (Kennewick being the ferry that makes the Coupeville-Port Townsend round trip 10 times a day.)

Well, sitting outside didn’t last long. Because despite the lovely sunshine, there was just enough of a breeze to dispel all the fine work of keeping me warm that the sun was trying desperately to provide. So, back inside the trailer I hastened. Of course, the protagonist in the story I was reading didn’t care where I sat. Because as much as I wanted to help him solve the mystery of who killed the Count’s son Robert, Commissario Guido Brunetti was literally on his own. BTW, if you are a mystery lover, may I take this opportunity to recommend Donna Leon’s series featuring Brunetti. Very fun light reading. And perfect for bringing along on a trip. And especially delightful if you have ever visited Venice. Because that’s the main location detailed beautifully in this enchanting series.  

Anyway, after a bit Andy returned from his romp, we had lunch, and spent the rest of the afternoon going back and forth between the trailer and the sunny outdoors. Always with books in hand and high expectations that this time we would be able to both sit outside and stay warm at the same time. Never happened. 

At about 6:00 we changed into clothes more appropriate for dining at Fraser’s Gourmet Hideaway in Oak Harbor where we were meeting friends for dinner. After a fabulous meal and scintillating conversation with Barry and Kate, we closed down the place and headed back to our trailer. Then read some more and decided an early lights out was warranted. After all, hadn’t we survived a really busy day? Well, actually it hadn’t been busy at all. But we went to bed anyway.

Once again, another fabulous day in paradise.

Thursday, March 30, 2023 – Fort Casey State Park, site 34

After a lazy start to the day, we decided a bit of provisioning was in order. And one of the things I felt was definitely required before we proceeded any further on our trip, was some really fine sharp white cheddar cheese. (Doesn’t everyone need a great white cheddar in their refrigerator at all times? Of course, they do!) So, Andy went online and found the name of a specialty food shop in nearby Coupeville. So, off we proceeded.

Now to say that this was an OK shop would be like saying that chuck steak was comparable to filet mignon. Suffice it to say that if we lived in the area, we would undoubtedly make several visits a month to this fabulous establishment. Wow! Fine wine, fabulous cheeses and charcuterie, and everything in between. And not a new shop. The manager told us they had been in business for 23 years. And busy, OMG, the place was jumping. So, after obtaining a half pound of fabulous English white cheddar, a small round of fresh triple cream cheese, a chocolate truffle bite, and a bottle of Vin Santo, we left the shop vowing to return every time we are in the region. The name of the shop is bayleaf. If you are ever in the vicinity, I suggest you pay this shop a visit. But do remember to bring your credit card with a high limit. Like every specialty food shop, I have ever visited, the merchandise doesn’t come cheap! But worth the price? You bet!

After Andy dragged me out of bayleaf (and yes, the “b” of bayleaf is not capitalized) (I still have the receipt to prove it), we decided to take a bit of a drive through the neighborhoods around Penn Cove. Beautiful homes and vistas in this very pleasant area of the island made for a nice drive.

And as serendipity will have her way, as we were driving along, we saw a sign, welcoming visitors, to Price Sculpture Forest. Never heard of the place, but worth a bit of a gander. So, we decided “what the heck” and parked the truck. As it turned out, the sculpture forest was open to the public every day of the year. So, we took a chance and started down the path leading into the woods and not incidentally, the sculptures. Magnificent. The sculptures were fun, the walk was easy, and the entire experience was more than delightful.

Some pictures of the sculptures.

This “sculpture” was entitled “you” or words to that effect. Fun, fun. fun!

One of the displays that we found most engaging was the Augmented Reality exhibit. This is the very first Augmented Reality exhibition of real-world physical sculptures on this planet. For over 1½ years, the folks from the Price Sculpture Forest have partnered with tech startup XR-ROOM to create a completely new way of experiencing outdoor art.

Through this amazing technology, they were able to blend physical real-world sculpture with interactive technology creating augmented reality using personal devices. The result creates a new way to appreciate all 360 degrees of a 3D sculpture. A way to merge pieces of art with a natural background. So, if you look at the dais (round platform) built for this exhibit with your eyes only, all you see is the dais and of course the surrounding forest. If you look through the camera on your cell phone you see the dais, the forest, anyone who happens to be in the frame, and the sculpture.  And I have to say, this experience was really, really cool. See pictures below.

That big bird is not really there. Of course, I’m really not all there either. But that’s beside the point!

Again, I’m really there, but the big chicken is living life in a nice warm studio.

Now the reality of the picture you see is that it’s only the dais, the forest, and me. The piece of art you see is in someone’s studio or art gallery off site. So, with just an app download, and a couple of set-up steps even we could follow, the picture of that huge chicken appeared on Andy’s cell phone camera. And there were 3 other sculptures we could view in this very same manner. The entire experience with augmented reality was surrealistic, to say the least. But wonderful!

So, to sum up the entire experience – the sculpture forest was amazing. And free. Unless of course you wanted to support this type of art project and leave a donation. Which, of course, we did. Again, if you are ever in the vicinity, this is another must see, must visit, Whidbey Island treasure. In fact, it’s worth making a visit to Whidbey Island just to walk and view the sculpture forest. At least, I think it is!

After getting back to our truck, it was back to finishing our errands. Gas for the truck for tomorrow’s run to Belfair and a few other provisions from the Red Apple market in Coupeville that seemed necessary at the time. Then back to our trailer for a late lunch, a bit of reading for us both, a bit of jazzercise and trip reporting for me, and a walk on the bluff above Ebeys Landing for Andy.

After dinner, a brief read, and a long nap. Another wonderful day in the great state of Washington.

Friday, March 31, 2023 – Belfair State Park, site T43

There is just something about waking up to heavy winds and the definite possibility that rain is just around the corner. Especially on days when you are leaving a great campsite and moving to an unknown campsite. But with an 11:45 am ferry reservation, we knew it was time to pull ourselves and our trailer together for the move. And luckily, it didn’t start raining while Andy was hitching “Pullwinkle” to our trusty 2005 Toyota Tundra. But boy was it cold. So, until it was time to get in line for the ferry, (Coupeville/Port Townsend) we sat in camp in the hitched trailer with the blessed heat still filling the space.

Once we got in line after paying the exorbitant $60 plus fee for the privilege of cresting waves for the arduous 36-minute crossing, we sat in our trailer to wait. And to stay warm. The next thing we knew, a semi-truck had pulled up and parked beside us, on the door side, of course! Which presented a problem. Would we be able to get out of the trailer before it was time to load. Well, we made it, but there was little room to spare. Of course, the guys sitting in the truck right behind us were amused. But we did get two thumbs up from both at the fait accompli. (Points for style, I’m sure!)

By then, it had started to rain. Of course, it had! And it rained the entire drive down from Port Townsend to Belfair State Park. And then it really got serious just as Andy was unhitching. So, he was soaked when he came in and sat down to eat lunch.

Then it was read and enjoy the late afternoon. And soon it was time for dinner. So, with homemade marinara sauce over sliced Italian sausages, topped with grated Parmigiana-Reggiano and a salad on the side, we feasted in our warm and cozy trailer until we succumbed to the beckoning call of our pillows. A fine day all told.                   

Saturday, April 1, 2023 – Belfair State Park, site T43

We woke (please do not put any political spin on that word) up to reasonable weather. I know, define “reasonable weather”. Well, when you are camping in a trailer, it means that it’s not raining hard, snowing, or blowing excessively. Always a good way to start the day.

After breakfast we decided to take a drive and check out our reserved site at the Rest-a-While RV Park further up Hood Canal on the West side. We will be camping there with good friends Craig and Marsha for a few days in early August. And since neither couple had camped at this private campground, we wanted to make sure the pictures and amenities touted on the website matched the reality of the place. (Believe me, we have been fooled enough in the past to warrant an inspection if possible. And since we were in the vicinity, we availed ourselves of the opportunity to cancel if we had been terribly misled. Luckily, that was not the case.) Aside from checking the RV park, neither of us had spent much time in this locale, so we found the morning drive quite pleasant. On the way back we stopped for lunch at the Burger Claim in Belfair. Great burgers; fish and chips, not so much.

Then it was back to camp to get ready to drive into Seattle for a memorial gathering for our recently deceased close friends Dick and Eloise Etter. On the drive north, we experienced some dreadful weather. The sky was not only filled with a magnificent rainbow but there were vertical wide bands of white in the very dark grey sky. We soon came to understand what those white bands represented. Hail. Lots and lots of hail. So, driving through this mess was not pleasant. We did, however, drive under the rainbow. And that was kind of cool. But back to our reason for going north.

 I had been close friends with Dick and Eloise and their son John since 1970. And during our long friendship they had not only been great friends to me and then Andy, but to my kids as they were growing up. In fact, they were part of our extended family. As a “family”, we spent all our holidays together, saw each other for many wonderful dinners on weekends, and even vacationed together. So, the loss of these two friends was hard on all of us. But it was wonderful to get together to celebrate their lives. And the amazing part of the evening was the fact that there were 4 generations gathered together recalling the kindness, intelligence, and thoughtfulness of this truly special couple. And yes, there were tears shed. But the sheer joy of all of us being together to remember the privilege of being able to call these dear people close friends or relatives, far outweighed the sadness at their loss.  

The gathering was held at the Woodland Park Zoo. In the Nysether Riverhouse and Living Northwest Trail. Now calling the Riverhouse any kind of a room would be misleading. Yes, the enclosure has walls and a ceiling, and even a few lights. But really, it is basically an enclosure for domestic animals (humans in this case) to watch wild animals (grizzly bears, otters, and mountain goats). So, no heat, and a very large opening allowing ingress and egress for two legged creatures. Not to mention that fresh air was accustomed to freely entering this area also. Which of course it did with alacrity! And the bathrooms were in a separate building. So, into the cold you proceeded when nature called! Not the most hospitable environment for two legged critters. But a wonderful place to celebrate the lives of these two incredible people.  

Both Dick and Eloise had been true animal lovers. In fact, Eloise had been a docent at the zoo for many years. So, it was no surprise that their home had always been liberally sprinkled with real and stuffed animals. So, no other gathering place would have been nearly as appropriate as the zoo for their memorial.

After saying goodbye to family members (both genetic and selected) we headed back to Belfair and to the cozy warmth of our trailer. We arrived after midnight and went straight to bed! It had been a long, hard, tearful, and jubilant day full of wonderful memories and wonderful people. But we were pooped! But even being almost exhausted, it took me awhile to get to sleep. My brain would just not let go of all the memories associated with Dick and Eloise. We had been so close for so long that to think of life without them was very unsettling. Even though they had both been ill for several years, it still would never be the same without them. But I finally remembered that my dear friends would always be with me. I had all my memories of our time together. And with that reassuring realization, I drifted off to sleep.

Sunday April 2, 2023 – Cape Disappointment State Park, site B77

Luckily, we did not wake up to the sound of rain drumming on our roof. Because this was the day to hitch up and move the trailer to Cape Disappointment State Park. (One of our favorite state parks BTW.) So, not even a light sprinkle as Andy prepared the outside of the trailer for travel while I readied the inside.

It has always amazed me that moving homes (trailers, RVs, etc.) stay together as well as they do. I mean really, the refrigerator, heater, etc. still work after having been driven over some of the worse road surfaces ever imagined by civil engineers! And today’s ride was a good example of how certain roads should not be driven over in their current conditions. Because SR-107 and US-101 between Montesano and Raymond were in terrible shape. When we stopped in South Bend to use the trailer bathroom, the container holding all my herbs and spices had come out of the cupboard leaving bottles, jars, and tins all over the floor. So, we put them back in their container, stored them where they belong, and proceeded on down the road.

When we got to camp, Andy found that the electrical cord from the trailer to the truck receptacle had come loose and was destroyed by being dragged along the pavement. So, that meant that we would get to spend the next day trying to find a shop that could replace this cord. Without the connection, the trailer has no brake lights, turn signal lights, running lights, or trailer brakes. Important safety features that must always be in good working order. We were both hopeful that we wouldn’t have to spend the entire next day looking for assistance. So, to our cell phones and computers for research purposes. And of course, our luck being what it was that day, our camp site was without connectivity. And not being in a huge metropolitan area, we just crossed our fingers and hoped that there was someone close by who could provide assistance. So, we decided to go into town later that afternoon to do our research and make some calls. But in the meantime, Andy decided on a beach walk while I caught up on this travel log.

For dinner, I proclaimed that going out was the best option. I was still tired from Saturday’s round trip into Seattle and the memorial event itself. Frankly, what I felt I needed was a bit of pampering. Memorial get-togethers are cathartic, but they are also emotional. So many great recollections of fun times shared with these special friends over the 52 years of our friendship. Followed by the realization that there will never again be any new memories to be made with them. I know that not only for myself, but for others too, it takes a while to recover from the reality of loss. And to process the feelings that are very real and ever so close to the surface of every thought that jumps into your mind. And that this all takes time.

Luckily, Mr. C. was willing to give me the time and space to recover from all the emotional upheaval. It’s wonderful to have a partner who understands that everything is not about him. That my being quiet doesn’t mean I’m mad. That time spent on introspection can and often does lead to healing. And that the best way to help sometimes is to do or say nothing.     

So, that evening when we reached civilization and after leaving a message on a RV repair shop’s answering machine explaining our problem, we enjoyed a fine meal at the Depot Restaurant in Seaview. Then it was back to camp and to bed. We had had enough frustration and excitement for one day! And I especially needed the relief only a good night’s sleep can bring. 

Monday, April 3, 2023 – Cape Disappointment State Park, site B77

After a stormy, rain filled night, we were greeted this morning with a light sprinkle and intervals of sunshine. But still very cold outside.

We had left a message with an RV repair shop the evening before, but still with no connectivity on site, Andy headed into town to talk to the RV guy in person about our situation. He assured Andy that he would order the part and it probably would arrive tomorrow (Tuesday) by about 11:00 am. Of course, he could not guarantee that it would arrive that morning, but he expected it just might. (Not very reassuring, but we had to take what we could get.) So, Andy told him thank you and that we would arrive with the trailer in tow on Tuesday at noon.

Of course, we were scheduled to leave that day to spend the next three nights at Cape Lookout State Park on the coast near Tillamook, Oregon. The state park is only 91 miles from Cape Disappointment State Park, but if you have ever driven US-101, then you know there is no such thing as 70 MPH. The road is mostly one lane each way and slow, windy, and extremely narrow in places. It’s lovely for sightseeing, but not for getting from one place to another in any kind of a timely manner. So, even if the repair guy was able to fix our trailer tomorrow, we would still probably be getting into camp after dark. Not desirable, but sometimes it can’t be helped.

Worst case scenario, the part won’t arrive tomorrow, and we would need to spend another night here at Cape Disappointment. If that happens, the name of the park will surely represent our mental condition. But as the old saying goes – you pay your money, and you take your chances!

But nothing ever spoils all of our fun. So, after driving by the RV repair shop this morning to make sure we could find the place tomorrow, we checked out what was playing at the local movie theater (yuck), did a bit of grocery provisioning at Sid’s (always a pleasure), purchased some essentials from Dennis and Co, aka Ace Hardware (the greatest store for anything you might need on the Long Beach Peninsula), and filled the gas tank on the truck (a semi-religious experience). Then back to camp for lunch.

After lunch it was a walk for Andy near the Willapa National Wildlife Reserve Head Quarters.

While on his walk, Andy spotted a cute little salamander. Had to take a picture of his new friend.

And for me, to do what I like to do almost as much as cooking. Write and read. And of course, to do my 20-minute jazzercise workout. (And just for the record, I actually quite enjoy my workouts. As do my shoulders and back especially.)

Then dinner, read, write, and relax. Life is still good! 

Tuesday, April 4, 2023 – Cape Lookout State Park, site C49

Right behind our trailer, our very own marsh replete with skunk cabbage. Luckily, they really don’t smell like skunks.

So, will the part actually arrive that we need to continue on our way, or will we have to stay another night at Cape Disappointment? That is the question. I absolutely hate mechanical problems. And especially if they are remotely connected with electricity. Frankly, electricity scares the bejesus out of me. And therefore, I don’t handle electrical problems well at all. Poor Andy. He is always the one who has to metaphorically “talk me off the ledge”. But somehow, he always manages to calm me down and be the adult in the situation.  

So, after breakfast, off Andy went to check in with Ashlin, owner of Mobil West LLC (mobilwestusa.com) via cell phone to find out if the part had arrived. And joy of joys, yes indeed the kind people of UPS had delivered the part as promised. Now, if you ever have a need for RV assistance on the Long Beach Peninsula, or even as far afield as Astoria or points south, I recommend you give Ashlin a call. Because, unlike service providers in the northwestern part of Washington, we were not held hostage. The price for the part and the labor were both reasonable. So, write this phone number down if you own a moveable home (trailer, RV, motor coach, tent trailer, etc.) 360.929.7721. Hopefully you will never have to use this information. But if you need RV assistance in this lovely area of the state, then we highly recommend Ashlin as the person to give you excellent and quick service.

So, after once again enjoying the fact of brake lights, etc. we trundled on down the road towards Tillamook, Oregon and Cape Lookout State Park. On the way to the park after we had turned off 101, we were lucky enough to see a whole herd of elk right by the side of the road. What a delightful welcoming committee.

Arrived at Cape Lookout about 4:00 pm. After a complicated back in to our reserved site, we basically called it a day. As Andy finished getting the trailer set up with power and water, I finished the indoor set up and started prepping for dinner.

Since we had stopped for tuna fish and chips for lunch in Seaside, Oregon, we weren’t ready for dinner in the immediate future. So, I decided that documenting today’s events was much more necessary than serving dinner. Of course, we eventually had dinner, but not until much later. Then it was read our email (we actually had connectivity) thanks to a tower that must have been close to our campground and our hot spot. Having constant access to cell phones and internet can sometimes make me crazy. But being without them, especially when you need assistance, can be even more frustrating. So, I guess living with them is slightly better than being without. Now, if I could only find a way to stop all the spam calls coming into our land line at home, I would find this whole constant communication thing acceptable. But having an elevator in our home requires that we have a land line. So, there you go. Some things simply must be tolerated in the name of safety.

Once again as I lay in our cozy trailer bed, I offered up a silent thank you to any deity listening, for our speedy trailer fix. And of course, for another safe arrival at camp. Along with a general thank you for all the blessings that for whatever reason have been gifted to me. There isn’t a day that goes by that I don’t realize and appreciate my life. Even if some days every joint in my body reminds me of just how bloody old I’m getting! But as John McCutcheon (one of our favorite folk singers/song writer/tellers of tall tales) would say “I’m too old to die young”. So, I’m content. Even if my body is well past it’s pull date, I’m still getting around OK. And who can ask for more than that?!

Wednesday, April 5, 2023 – Cape Lookout State Park, site C49

Woke to gloomy weather but not gloomy spirits. Because the reality is that it’s April. And everyone knows April showers bring May flowers. And we’re on the coast. And it’s April! Duh! So, what to do on a rainy day in Oregon? Go shopping, of course. And since we happened to need a few things from a grocery store, going shopping made a lot of sense.

But first, we decided a ride out to Cape Meares was in order. And so, with our trusty Oregon Road and Recreation Atlas in hand, off we went. Nothing spectacular to see on the cape. Unless of course you consider being 100 feet from several white egrets and blue heron standing close together in shallow water fishing, of interest. Which we just happen to find very special. But everything else was just ordinary surroundings that anyone would experience when driving next to a saltwater bay, off shore sea stacks, old forests, a majestic coastal range to the east, and gorgeous vistas everywhere you look.

Then it was into Tillamook for provisions and gas. Our truck gets mighty thirsty when we are pulling our trailer. But I have heard other people with trailers often remark upon this reality too. So, I guess it isn’t just us who need to visit almost every gas station along the way while pulling a trailer or driving a motorhome. But even then, it is so worth the expense. Because at the end of the day, you get to sleep in your own bed, cook and eat your own food, and have ready access to your own favorite adult beverages.

And speaking of cooking, I had better cut this short and walk the three small steps it will take me to get into our kitchen. Because after all, pea salad doesn’t make itself. And I’m pretty sure, if I don’t prepare this dish, Mr. C. isn’t going to take it upon himself to mix it up. Even though he might just be the number one pea salad lover in this camp at this time. It just wouldn’t happen if it were up to him. So, that leaves me. So, post to be continued later.

And I’m back. With pea salad happily residing in our fridge and the rest of dinner prepped, I am free to read and write. So, before I reward myself with the final chapters in the latest police adventure starring Guido Brunetti, I will finish today’s post.

Rain, more rain, and still more rain. Eat dinner, finish my book, and light’s out.  

Thursday, April 6, 2023 – Cape Lookout State Park, site C49

Well, I have to give it to the weather guys who predicted rain again for today. Because we went to bed last evening listening to the constant drip from leaking clouds, paid our night calls to our bathroom hearing the constant patter of raindrops falling on our trailer roof, and awoke to a puddle outside our trailer door large enough to accommodate a large family of ducks. Not to mention that the small marsh area behind our trailer that is home to far too many skunk cabbages for my liking, is on the rise. But hey, at least we aren’t tenting. And for that I am seriously thankful. Because yes, there are people in this campground who are tenting. Why, I have no idea. Because for decades both of us were tent campers. But never at this time of year. Of course, we did experience rain while camping in the summer. But camping in summer rain and camping while the temperature difference is this great is a completely different occurrence.

So, as brave as these folks appear to be, I would be willing to bet that insanity runs in their family! Because what other reason could drive these folks to suffer such hardship? Of course, the same could be said for us. Why would we leave our spacious home to find ourselves sequestered in 160 sq. feet of space? Again, the question begs that insanity might be a part of the equation. However, in our defense, we are able to stay warm and dry and don’t have to suffer exposure to the elements each time we need to go to the bathroom. Which for anyone over the age of 60 knows, bathroom visits become quite frequent the older one becomes. (Another one of the joys of aging that you don’t learn about until you are there.) Grrrrr

But regardless of the rain, we are managing to stay happy and content. Plenty of good books to read, connectivity so we can stay current on what delicious scandals Trump is trying to blame on someone else, and Andy has suggested we go to a pub we know about in Pacific City for burgers. The man really knows the way to my heart. At the very mention of burgers, I get slightly giddy. So, without further ado, I will sign off for now and layer up for yet another adventure along the Oregon coast.

First to Fred Mayer again for new coffee mugs. Then down the road to Pacific City and the Pelican Pub for burgers. (The burgers were OK, but the beer was great.)

Then back to the trailer for a short nap for me, a long read for Andy, and an internet search for a recipe for chocolate Bath Olivers. Allow me to explain.

I am currently reading a mystery recommended by Andy written in 1970 by Michael Innes featuring Sir John Appleby. And in this book the author had the protagonist (Sir John) (retired Commissioner of Metropolitan Police) drinking tea and trying desperately not to be tempted into eating any chocolate Bath Olivers being offered by his wife. And of course, I just had to know what Bath Olivers were. Turns out they are biscuits liberally coated in chocolate. So, of course I tried to find a recipe. Well, not an easy task. I found a recipe in grams for the plain variety. But could not find a single recipe with even a fleeting mention of a chocolate coating. So, I have relegated my continued search to a time when I am at home and not paying for a hot spot. When dinner time arrived, neither of us was very hungry. So, it was decided that tomato soup would be the perfect choice.

Now some of you know that I love to cook. And I make almost everything from scratch. But there are just those times when nothing tastes as good as Campbell’s Tomato Soup. And of course, I don’t use water when I prepare this delicacy. It’s whole milk or nothing!

So, hot tomato soup liberally sprinkled with Italian Four Cheese Cheese-Its and life is good.

Then read awhile, write awhile, and enjoy the pleasure of being rocked to sleep. Because whether we wanted it or not, the wind was gently rocking our trailer as we drifted off.

Friday, April 7, 2023 – South Beach State Park, site D33

Apparently, we have either been very good or there is a deity somewhere who has taken a liking to us. Because we were able to dump our holding tanks and hook up the trailer without getting soaked. And this came as a surprise, because it had been raining almost non-stop for the past 3 days. And because we were now conditioned to expect more of the same, we assumed that breaking camp this morning was not going to be pleasant. Wrong. Not only was it not raining, but it wasn’t particularly cold either. And blue sky just offshore was threatening to come out in all its glory further throwing us off kilter. But we made the best of it. We escaped camp without having to change into dry cloths and with high hopes that the sunshine might take it upon itself to follow us to our next campground. So, with great expectations and fingers crossed it was back on good old US-101 heading south to our next destination.

Together, we have been trailer camping in this part of the world for over 30 years. And have visited most of the state parks along the Oregon coast as well as a few private parks. So, not only do we know US-101 pretty well, but we also know the campgrounds. Some we stay at every chance we get. Others, we have learned to omit from our itinerary. But South Beach SP just south of Newport is one that we try never to miss. The park is close to Newport and is very well laid out and spacious. And if you know what sites to reserve, the sites are quiet, and they back up to a wall of trees consisting of a variety of species. And of course, along with the trees come an abundance of four legged creatures. As I am writing, a squirrel is busy tree hopping. What he or she is after, I have no idea. And I’m pretty sure, the squirrel doesn’t have any better idea than I do. Or at least, so it would appear. Maybe he or she is concerned with all the dogs in camp. Because at last count, at least the sites near ours, dogs outnumber the humans. Or at least, that’s how it seems. Anyway, so far, the dogs appear to be well behaved, so they are fine with me. As far as with the squirrel, I have no way of knowing. But my belief is that he or she would have preferred the dogs stay in a kennel near their home while their keepers enjoy a quiet retreat without them. (Just a theory on my part.)

After arriving and setting up camp, we had a simple lunch. Then Andy went for a beach walk while I documented our day so far. A division of labor I find totally acceptable.

For dinner, shrimp pasta. Then read, write, and off to the land of Nod.            

Saturday, April 8, 2023 – South Beach State Park, site D33

Woke to windy weather, but it hadn’t rained overnight. After a late breakfast we were sprinkled on a bit, but nothing serious came of it. I had seen a funky looking establishment that appeared to be a seafood market on our way into camp, and decided fresh seafood would be great for dinner this evening. So, after a bit of provisioning at the local Safeway, a stop for gas, and a ride through the area between US-101 and the sea, we decided to make a quick stop for seafood.

What we found however was that everyone and their dog had the same idea. And there was only one line to both order from their menu (eat in) or buy fresh fish to take home and prepare. So, nothing ventured, nothing gained. We got in line. Fifteen, maybe twenty minutes later we had purchased a beautiful piece of halibut, some tartar sauce, a bowl of clam chowder to take back to the trailer, and a crab cocktail to share before dinner.

Then back to camp for lunch, Andy to take a walk, and me to catch up on my travel report and help the protagonist in my book stay out of trouble. Because at this point, Maisie Dobbs is totally over her head. And I have no way of helping her. (In case you too are a mystery lover, I highly recommend Jacqueline Winspear’s novels featuring Maisie Dobbs. Jacqueline’s characters are great fun, enjoy exciting adventures, and are mostly endearing, but with enough villainous exceptions to make the stories fun to read.)

As I mentioned in yesterday’s comments, there are several species of trees in this park. The ones I find most interesting are the Lodgepole Pines (Pinus Contorta) sometimes referred to as twisted or shore pine. They are nothing if not scruffy looking. Like they were designed to fall apart at any moment. Of course, it doesn’t help that every type of lichen, fungus, moss, etc. seems to feel free to attach itself to the bark of these multi trunked trees adding to their look of imminent death. Like they might just give up and fall over at even the whisper of a breeze. But as twisted and gnarly as they might appear, they seem to be able to withstand all kinds of weather and do so with aplomb! A quality I especially appreciate in some of my older friends too.

After a dinner of crab, halibut, and salad, it was read until our eyeballs demanded a respite. So, as early as 10:20 pm might seem to us when we are at home, it was the perfect time to hit the hay in our comfy trailer after an exhausting day of leisure.       

Sunday, April 9, 2023 – Sea Perch RV Resort, site 28

While we were camped at Sea Perch, Andy took a beach walk a bit south of camp but not as far south as Florence. While he was walking along, a lady and her horse came into view. If Andy and the lady hadn’t been laughing so hard, Andy would have captured the horse deciding that a roll in the sand would be great fun. So that’s exactly what happened. But like I said, the moment wasn’t captured on camera, because it was such an entertaining interlude. Animals are wonderful. If only humans were as spontaneous and less self-conscious. We would all have a lot more fun!

After listening to it rain overnight, it was no surprise to wake up to yet more rain. And puddles, less for us to maneuver around, but for some a real problem. Although this is a large park, it is fairly old. (As state parks go.) So, not all of the paved sites are still perfectly level. Over the years, ground water, being what it is, has played havoc with some of the once perfect sites. And of course, water will seek the lowest spot every single time. So, for some unlucky campers, just where they would need to stand to hook up their trailers, small lakes had formed. Luckily, we did not experience this inconvenience. None the less, Andy especially was pretty darn wet as we drove out of camp.

After leaving the Newport area, it was only a short jaunt south (28 miles) to Sea Perch. The drive had given us some indication of what we could expect when we arrived at our next destination. Driving rain and wind with enough force to make steering the truck a less than delightful experience. And when parked at our new location, opening the trailer door a hazardous contingency. But we managed to get ourselves set up, even though both of our coats were dripping wet when we could finally shed them and seek shelter in our trailer. But once inside, with the heat turned up and the kettle on, we were snug as bugs. How we will survive three days of this is yet to be determined. But we are fairly able to entertain ourselves, so I expect we will do just fine.

After a small lunch, it was watch as other trailers arrived, critique their backing up skills, and pray for a break in the weather. According to the weather channel, there is little chance of anything but rain happening any time soon. But we can hope. In the meantime, there is writing, reading, and games to play. And a very nice supply of various types of liquor from which to choose.  

After a simple spaghetti dinner, it was decided that playing a game might be too strenuous a task. So, with books in hand, we made it all the way to 10:00 pm before giving up for the day.

As you read this, you might get the impression that we were in agony sequestered as we were in our tiny trailer. Far from it. We lead a pretty busy life and taking 3 or 4 trips a year to relax and unwind works well for us. Sitting outside in sunshine and watching the ocean admittedly would have been our preference. But dang, as daughter Ursala would say, “You git what you git and you don’t throw a fit!” Words to live by, especially on a dismal rainy day! 

Monday, April 10, 2023 – Sea Perch RV Resort, site 28

Well, suffice it to say, nothing has changed from yesterday. OK, there might be a bit less wind, but the rain just keeps coming and coming. I would have written something different, but honesty prevents me from not telling it like it is. It’s wet. It’s dreary. And I can’t even get up the energy to do any laundry even though it needs to be done and the laundry facilities at this RV park are the best we are going to find anywhere along our path. But we still have tomorrow, and the weatherman has promised that tomorrow will bring rain changing to showers. How that is much of an improvement, I have yet to understand. But showers sound like a sometime respite from the incessant rain we are currently experiencing.

But for today, there is some grocery shopping to be done. And yes, obtaining additional groceries is not really necessary. But I have a hankering for mashed sweet potatoes and perhaps some sautéed fresh mushrooms to go with whatever meat I choose to serve tonight. And then of course, it’s something to do because walks are out of the question. And why drive to scenic sites when we can’t even get out of the truck to capture the moment on camera. So, Fred Meyer in Florence – here we come!

After shopping it was straight back to camp to stay inside, read, write, and relax until it was time to make dinner.

After dinner it was more of the same. Then to bed to say our prayers that the next day would be a bit better. Weather wise that is! I for one could not ask for better company, so I am still happy as a clam. (Whatever that means!)

Tuesday, April 11, 2023 – Sea Perch RV Resort, site 28

Waking up in the middle of the night to rain pounding on your roof is kind of delightful when it’s been sunny and warm for 3 weeks and a bit of rain would clear the air and provide some respite from the heat. But when it has been raining for days, it’s not as welcome. But when I crawled out of bed at about 8:00 am, there was actually some blue sky out to sea. (That’s when I took the picture of this camp site.) There were still clouds and threats of rain, but there was a chance that at some time during the day we might be able to walk outside without getting totally soaked.

And sure enough, after a leisurely breakfast we were blessed with a bit of sun and a rain-free walk up to the laundry room. So, with clean towels, bedding, and a few various and sundry garments, we were back in our trailer.

Andy had gone online to check out our route for tomorrow. And the prognosis, after checking Oregon highway conditions was not good. Santiam Pass was receiving snow and hazardous conditions. And the same was predicted for tomorrow. So, getting to Bend, Oregon from the coast was not going to work for us. So, I called Peach Beach RV Resort and reserved a site for us right on the river for 1 night.

After lunch we decided to go for a short ride and visit Cape Perpetua again. We had been to the lookout before, but can you ever get too much ocean view from on top of a cape? I think not.

As we were driving down, I remembered seeing what looked like a very nice gallery in Yachats. So, we went in search of what I thought I remembered. And sure enough, on the north side of Yachats I spied the Earthworks Gallery.

Now this is not a tourist gift shop. This is a real gallery much like the closed but not forgotten Real Mother Goose gallery in Portland. High quality, which of course means high price tags. But right where I wanted it to be, was the perfect metal piece for the narrow table behind our couch. Metal, and something our dear kitties couldn’t knock off and break. Because for the same reason that we all know that the earth is not flat, our kitties can’t knock this piece to the floor. Oh, they might be able to, inadvertently of course, but it’s not going to hurt this beautiful piece of art. And yes, I truly do believe that if the world were flat, cats would have knocked everything off the world ages ago!

Then it was back to the trailer for me to write and read while Andy went for a walk.

After his walk we had dinner and an early to bed. During the night my stomach started hurting worse than it had been (more nausea than hurt), along with back pain and trouble swallowing. Not pleasant and it had been going on for 5 days.

I had tried to restrict my diet to only bland food, but that didn’t seem to make a difference. Something was wrong and as I lay awake, I made a plan for the following day. And the plan involved daughter Paula. 

Wednesday April 12, 2023 – Tumalo State Park, site B26 (scratch that), then Peach Beach RV Resort, site 27 (scratch that too), and finally Mark and Paula’s driveway in Keizer, Oregon

As I stated in yesterday’s report, I made a plan for today while I lay awake wondering what was going on with my body. After breakfast I called a Kaiser Permanente consulting nurse in Washington, and after she and a doctor reviewed my symptoms, they advised me to go to a hospital. So, knowing that we were only about 3 hours out of Salem, I called daughter Paula and asked if we could park our trailer in their driveway overnight so that I could see someone for my ailment. What could she say but “of course”.

So, as we were driving up to Newport and then over highway 20 to Corvallis and then up I-5, I called and cancelled our reservation at Peach Beach. (BTW, going over the coast range on highway 20 is a piece of cake with a trailer. And quite scenic.) 

When we got to Salem, Andy dropped me off at the Kaiser Permanente urgent care facility. Where I received absolutely wonderful care.

They promptly got me started with a nurse, blood draw, another meeting with a nurse, then a doctor in training and then a full-fledged doctor. With prescription in hand, I was out of the clinic in a little over 3 hours. And truly, that short amount of time was amazing. Because that place was as busy as I have ever seen a clinic. Patients coming out of the woodwork. I have never seen such an efficient operation. Or one that was more cordial or accommodating. For example, as I was sitting in the waiting room for my turn with the doctor, a lady came around with snacks and water. Free of charge. Just a lovely way of making us all feel comfortable while we waited. Amazing. And the entire staff was so cheerful that I almost asked one of the nurses if they passed out happy pills with the morning coffee. These people were just that pleasant.

Well, after seeing the doctor and getting a prescription for acid reflux and a strong recommendation to see a gastroenterologist as soon as we get back from vacation, we headed over to Paula and Mark’s and set up camp. We didn’t unhook because, why bother? Paula was feeding us dinner and we would be inside visiting with them until it was time for bed.

After dinner daughter Eden came over and we spent a grand evening with these two amazing women and our wonderful son-in-law Mark.

Then out to our toasty trailer for a good night’s sleep. (And with some hope that I might start feeling better. After all, it was damn well about time!)

So, if you happen to have a medical emergency while on vacation, make sure it’s near family or close friends. They will make sure you are OK and then treat you like royalty.

Thursday, April 13, 2023 – Tumalo State Park, site B26

Well, after delaying coming over Santiam Pass yesterday when it was snowing and having instead to make an overnight stop in Keizer, Oregon, Andy learned that today’s forecast was for sunshine and clear roads. So, we decided to take a chance and travel on highway 22 over Santiam rather than going up to Portland on I-5, then onto I-84 east to Biggs Junction, then south on SH 97 to Bend. This route would have taken a great deal longer and burned a great deal more gas. So, after Paula fixed us a nice, hearty breakfast, we were on our way by 9:30 am.

And I am so glad we came this way. Highway 22 out of Salem and through the Detroit Lakes area is beautiful. Lovely, rolling hills to begin with, and then up and over Santiam Pass is a very scenic way to cross the mountains. The only hard part was seeing all the dead trees from the horrific Detroit Lakes fire of 2020.  The fire of September 9, 2020 produced damage of monumental, catastrophic proportions. The huge conflagration started as three separate fires. The Beachie Creek, Lionshead, and P-515 fires were all ignited by lightning on August 16, 2020. These three fires gradually grew in size, before explosively spreading in early September fanned by powerful east winds during a heatwave. Soon the three fires merged. This huge fire destroyed over 1,500 structures in the Santiam Canyon, which included massive destruction to the city of Detroit, becoming one of the most destructive wildfires in the history of Oregon. Just mile after mile of wildfire damage. But finally we landed safely at Tumalo SP.

After lunch it was a few household duties, then writing for me and a walk to the creek for Andy. Then dinner and bed. Sounds terribly boring, but believe me, it was not. Sometimes what a person needs is a bit of down time. And in this lovely setting, nothing could have been more relaxing than looking through our trailer windows at the pleasant surroundings.

Friday, April 14, 2023 – Grande Hot Springs RV (La Grande, OR), site 50

Well, boy oh boy was it cold last night! We had known it was going to be below freezing, so Andy had taken the liberty of unhooking the park water and storing the hose in the trailer storage area. No problem. For water all we had to do was turn on the pump and use the water in the trailer’s fresh water holding tank. And since we had wanted to get going early today, having one less thing to get done before heading out was just fine too.

So, after breakfast I saw to safely storing all items that could go crashing around inside the trailer, while Andy worked on the outside. Then at the stroke of 9:30 am we were on our way. And even though it was a long ride today, every bit of it was scenic. Some roads we had traveled before, and some brand new to us. But all roads we hope to travel again.

Leaving Tumalo State Park we headed north on a county road called Cline Falls Highway which follows the Deschutes River downstream on its west bank towards SR-126 just west of Redmond (Oregon that is). We could see Sisters and Mount Jefferson clearly as we drove north.

After about 25 miles we turned right onto SR-126 which took us through Redmond and 20 miles further to Prineville where we took on a full tank of gas and merged onto US-26. Heading east, still on US-26, we drove through the Ochoco Mountains. (Over 2 passes.)

I took a small nap as we cruised along the John Day River to Mount Vernon where we had lunch and gassed up again. (It sounds like we were going through gas like there was no tomorrow. But in this part of the world there aren’t that many towns which means you get gas where you can. And when you can!)

From Mount Vernon we headed north on US-395 over 4 passes and two major rivers. (Middle and north fork of the John Day River.)

Turned off at SR-244 near the small town of Ukiah. This route took us over the Blue Mountains (only 1 pass), which were still covered in snow. Then down into the head waters of the Grande Ronde River. After intersecting I-84, we were at our campground after a short 15 miles.

Then it was set up camp and relax a bit before dinner. Then after dinner we tried to play a game called Unstable Unicorns. But it was so convoluted, and the instructions were so poorly written, that we decided to give up and read. The game had been sitting on our picnic table when we arrived. At first, I thought maybe it was a gift from the park. But after we tried playing it, we came to the only conclusion possible. The previous campers must have given up too and left the game for whoever came next. And by golly, not a bad idea. I thought that could be our way of wishing happiness to the next lucky folk who happened to be assigned this lovely site. You know, spreading joy wherever possible. But Andy had kept the game. So, if you know how to play this stinkin’ game, would you please give us a brief synopsis so we can once again give it a try. Or if you too couldn’t figure it out, please let us know so we can stop feeling so stupid. And so that we can justify donating it to our local thrift store.  

After reading for a while, it was lights out. Another grande day.

Saturday April 15, 2023 – Grande Hot Springs RV Resort (La Grande, OR), site 50

Woke to sunny weather. But it had been really cold overnight. But with our lovely propane furnace, we stayed toasty warm.

After breakfast we decided to do a bit of provisioning. I love the word “provisioning”. It always sounds like instead of merely going into town for groceries, we are buying supplies to go on safari in deepest, darkest Africa. Which BTW, would be a lot more fun than going to the Safeway in La Grande, Oregon for hearts of romaine and grapefruit! But that’s what we needed, so instead of laying on a supply of Jungle Juice (insect repellent which is an absolute necessity when visiting Africa), we bought sour cherry juice (yummy fruit juice that Andy loves), along with everything else that was on our list.

After a stop at a nice liquor store, where they were offering flavored whiskey tastings, (how cool is that?), we headed back to the trailer to store our purchases and for me to build a picnic lunch. We decided a road trip was in order. So, off we went. And a picnic lunch at some point would be perfect.

The first leg of our drive was to turn right out of our campground, then turn right onto SR-203. As we started up and out of the small town of Union, we saw our first sign that stated we were on the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. And I’m telling you true; this road is truly a scenic adventure. Snow clad mountains in every direction. And cattle. Lots and lots of cattle. Up and down, round and round, in and out. Everything a windy scenic road should offer. And then at the bottom of this long and winding road, a “welcome to Baker City” sign.   From Baker City we took SR-86 up to the Oxbow Dam. And once again, a beautiful drive this time along the Powder River.

A couple of pictures of the lake behind the dam. And joy of joys, I was able to take off my brown raincoat for practically the first time this trip. But will this weather last? Heck no!

When we reached the dam, we decided it was time to turn around and head back to camp. But while we were at the dam, we spotted the Copperfield RV Park run by the Idaho Power Company. Lovely setting, and definitely worth a stay sometime in the future. Along the way we also spotted the Eagle Valley RV Park in Richland, Oregon. Also, a nice-looking RV park that would be a great place to spend a couple of nights.

But first, since it had been a long day, we decided to have dinner in La Grande. We looked at a few places before deciding on the Cock and Bull de la Roma restaurant. We decided to share a meal, which meant first a small salad for each of us (very good), then a huge split portion of manicotti (not so good), 2 baskets of bread (terrible), followed by 2 desserts (very good). Andy chose Black Russian Cake and for me cheesecake with a delicious strawberry topping. I had ice water and Andy had a draft beer. Total bill – $31.00. Amazing price!

Around home you can’t even walk in a restaurant for $31.00! But frankly, you wouldn’t be able to pay me to eat anything but salad and dessert in that restaurant ever again! Then it was home to write up our day and to read a bit before bed.

As we were drifting off to sleep, we agreed that we wanted to come back to this area and spend some time exploring. We had visited a viewpoint over Hells Canyon a few years ago from the NW side. So, we wanted to see it from the SW side this visit. But the road was still closed due to snow. So, that means we must come back between June 15^th and October 15^th. (The only time the road is open to the public.) But we will return because Hells Canyon is a must see for anyone who loves a spectacular view of wild and crazy water.

According to Wikipedia “Hells Canyon is a ten-mile-wide canyon located along the border of eastern Oregon, a small section of eastern Washington, and western Idaho. It is part of the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area which is also located in part of the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. It is North America’s deepest river gorge at 7,993 feet running deeper than the Grand Canyon in Arizona.  

The canyon was carved by the waters of the Snake River,  which flows more than one mile below the canyon’s west rim on the Oregon side and 7,400 feet below the peaks of Idaho’s Seven Devils Mountains to the east. This area includes 214,000 acres of wilderness. Most of which is inaccessible by road.^”

Back in the trailer it was time to read and then off to bed. Another amazing day in Oregon. And we haven’t been rained on now for two days. We’ll have to see what tonight brings in the way of extreme weather conditions. 

Sunday, April 16, 2023 – Lake Wallowa State Park, site B02

 

What we found at our site upon arrival at Wallowa Lake State Park.

When we first arrived, there was a bit of sun.

OK, last night was not the best night’s sleep I have ever experienced in the trailer because it was super windy ALL NIGHT LONG! To the point of shaking the trailer with periodic gusts which are not an easy thing to do considering the trailer’s weight and the stabilizer jacks on all four corners. But none the less, we were rockin’ and a rollin’ sporadically all night long. Good thing I don’t suffer from motion sickness, that’s all I have to say. The gusts of wind were severe enough to move one of our chocks out of position and under the trailer. Easy to retrieve this morning, but only after we had hitched up and Andy had pulled the trailer forward.

But before that could happen it was breakfast and dishes, then me to get the inside trailer ready for travel while Andy completed all the outside tasks. Including filling the freshwater tank up to the brim. Because we had been warned when I made the reservation for Wallowa SP, that the water might still be turned off at our site this time of year. Which sure enough it was. But before I go any further, sharing with you all the glories associated with camping in the spring (think winter), I need to write about our drive here.

Leaving Grande Hot Springs RV Resort on highway 203, we turned right onto Pierce Road which was a shortcut to SR-82. (Which meant that we didn’t have to go through La Grande proper.) Then we stayed on SR-82 all the way to Joseph. Then it was just follow the road through town and look for the sign to Wallowa Lake SP.

From Joseph, the drive was short but very scenic as it followed the shore of this water filled basin (Wallowa Lake) that is 80% surrounded by tall mountains. And what did we find when we got into camp? Snow on quite a bit of the park. Including some still piled up on our site.

Now, the first thing you should know is that snow on our site is a first for us. After 30 years of trailering, having snow on our site when we arrive, is not only a bit disconcerting, but also kind of scary. Especially since the weather forecast for the next 3 days is for possible snow flurries. Yikes! What could possibly be wrong with this picture? OK, we have been on sites before where we awoke to snow on the ground. That is just a hazard of camping in the shoulder seasons. But to know ahead of time that there might possibly be snow where we plan to camp, is shear craziness. But believe it or not, we were not alone. Of course, the campground was far from full, mainly because most of it was still not open to the public. But there were still enough rigs parked in our area to remind us that we are not the only crazies visiting this part of Oregon at this time of year.

But as of right now, 5:00 pm, we are cozy warm in our trailer looking forward to a nice steak dinner. Which reminds me, it is time to take the steak out of the fridge and lavish it all over with salt and pepper. Then let it sit for about an hour before we decide to completely lose our minds and fire up the grill. It would certainly be entertaining for our neighbors, but only time will tell if we follow through with our grilling plan.

So, full disclosure, the grill stayed in the back of our truck. We figured it was wiser to pan sear the steak in the trailer, than have Andy try to clean the grill since we have no water on site. Of course, we have our trailer water tank. But if it does snow, we will need that water to shower, flush the toilet, and do dishes. So, practicality won in the end. (And the steak was still delicious.)

After dinner we played a rousing game of Skip-Bo (I won), then read for a while, studied the forecast for the next couple of days, and to bed with thoughts of waking up to snow on the ground. Because that is just what was predicted. But before I leave you for today, some thoughts about this fine state and this area.

If you have never traveled through the great state of Oregon, what in the heck are you waiting for? The Oregon coast is beautiful and wild, but so is eastern Oregon. Especially the northeastern part of the state. And the drive to Joseph is truly scenic. The area around Joseph is something no one who loves the great outdoors should miss. It’s mountains and valleys everywhere along the way. And the small town of Joseph is cute. At least along the main street. Cute shops, cute restaurants, and well, just touristy cute. And being completely surrounded by snowcapped mountains sure doesn’t hurt Josephs appeal either. Neither does its proximity to Wallowa Lake.  

So, despite the fact that weather conditions might not be very conducive to sightseeing during the next couple of days, we are sticking to our plan. At least for now. Will keep you posted.

Monday, April 17, 2023 – Lake Wallowa State Park, site B02

Well, surprise surprise! When we awoke this morning, it was snowing. Beautiful, big old flakes of the white stuff. And why not? After all, we are camped at 4,383 feet above sea level and in the stinkin’ mountains! So, what else should we have expected? And the weather channel had predicted snow for this area. So, if we got ourselves into this predicament, we have only ourselves to blame. But boy is the snow pretty to watch. And being inside safe and warm with plenty of food to last us for a week, worst case scenario, we stay the course. Which means, we are going to be spending a whole heck of a lot of time in our trailer.

But this isn’t a new condition on this trip. We have already been spending most of our days confined to quarters. And for what it’s worth, we could have left our camping chairs, Andy’s golf clubs, and his bicycle at home for as much use as they’re getting so far on this adventure. I think the only time I sat in my camp chair was for a brief 10 minutes or so at Fort Casey on Whidbey Island. And a bit at Sea Perch. A little bit more time outside for Andy, but not by much. But then, we have a few days left on our trip, so things could improve in that regard. (I’m not holding my breath!)

After a late lunch, we decided to drive into town (Joseph) and fill the gas tank on the truck. (A religious experience each and every time.) Then a stop at the Stein Distillery to purchase a bottle of bourbon. Both Andy and our dear friend Jim are bourbon lovers. And since Jim and Margo will be joining us in a few days for a couple of nights, Andy thought it would be fun to share a wee dram of this delightful elixir with his “brother”. (I often refer to the two of them as the “booze brothers”, but please don’t tell them that’s my name for them.) But a bit about this distillery.

Stein Distillery is a family run, handcrafted, turn-key operation as well as the pioneer in eastern Oregon for micro-distilleries. And the line of products has steadily increased over time from its 2009 inception. The first releases were in 2011 – an American oak aged straight rye and a straight bourbon whiskey.  

What is unique to this distillery is that they only use grains that are homegrown on the family farm. Actually, each part of the spirit making process is done by hand – the farming of the grain, the harvesting of the grain, the distilling and bottling, and even the application of the labels on the bottles. Growing the grain on their own farms ensures that the quality of the products used in their spirits meets their exacting standards. The bourbon is aged in brand new heavily charred American white oak casks for a minimum of two years and bottled at 80 proof. So, if you are ever in the area, we recommend you give this distillery a visit.

After we left the distillery and after gassing up, it was back to “Camp Snowy” for us. But as we were approaching the state park at about 3:00 pm, we realized it had stopped snowing. So, Andy took a short walk around camp while I caught up on my writing. Then dinner, another game of Skip-Bo (I won again, but only by 1 card) and back to our books. Then off to bed. But before I sign off for today, a short note about the current book I am reading.

One of my favorite authors is Amor Towles. His other two books, A Gentleman in Moscow and Rules of Civility, were such a pleasure to read from the standpoint of both the excellent writing style and the endearing characterizations. And both books had taught me a great deal about kindness and how to be a better person.

This book, The Lincoln Highway, however, is not an easy read. Don’t get me wrong, the writing and story line are excellent. But the characters are so unlike anyone I have ever met and the situations they get themselves into are so far from my reality, that I find myself slightly hesitant to open the book each time I sit down to read. Because, as with many books, there are the characters that you like and those that you wish would just disappear because they make you uncomfortable. Well, boy howdy, this book has an abundance of both. So, while you root for the good guys, you know that good doesn’t always triumph in fiction. Any more than it does in real life. (Think “Trump” for example!)

So, while I am bothered by some of the characters, their back stories as to why they are who they are is very interesting, I keep reading. So, am I enjoying this book? I really have no answer for that. Am I going to finish the book, and do I recommend it for others to read? Absolutely. But for me, it’s just not an easy read. But again, as with Mr. Towles’ other 2 books, I am learning about life, love, and inherent kindness.

Tuesday, April 18, 2023 – Tucannon River RV Resort, site 23

Well, as the old saying goes, you reap what you sow. And in this case, what we have outside our trailer to reap is snow. Between 3-4 inches to be exact. Yep, we knew it had been snowing overnight, but we seriously didn’t think it would be such a vast amount of snow that literally covered everything in sight. Trees, roads, trailers, trucks, cars, and even the tent top to our neighbor’s truck. In other words, there was snow every which way we looked!

But even before I started making breakfast, one of the park rangers was out snow shoveling the path to the restrooms. And then, he hopped in his truck with a snowplow in front and proceeded to go through our loop several times to clear a path for us to leave this snowy haven, if we so desired. Which at this point, we so desired! So, after breakfast, we decided to wait a couple of hours so that other roads in the area could also be plowed, and then endeavor to dig our way out of this mess.

Luckily Andy had the foresight to bring his hiking boots along. (And no, not for hitching up the trailer in snow, but for actually hiking. Which so far, he has only had the pleasure of wearing for a brief one-hour stroll.) But today those sturdy boots are going to come in handy.

You know, I usually love new experiences. But getting out of this area under these conditions may turn out to be not one of those new experiences I appreciate. Even if it turns out to be a piece of cake, I doubt seriously if I am going to wish for a repeat. After all, it’s not like wanting to go back to the Eiffel Tower. Which is something I would definitely like to do. But hitching up the trailer and driving up and over snowy passes towing a trailer is surely not as pleasant as viewing all of Paris from the top of France’s most famous monument. Even if the Eiffel Tower is the most visited and costly monument in the world!

So, a little before 11:00 am we started our individual tasks towards departure. Now, I must say, Andy always gets the dirty end of the stick when it comes to these duties. And today’s hookup was a prime example. I stayed in our warm trailer performing my required tasks while Andy got on his knees in the snow, and basically turned himself into a human popsicle.

But we have played this game for so long now that we can practically do it in our sleep. So, in no time, we were heading out of the park. And low and behold, the roads were fine all the way to our present location which is about 200 miles from where we started. And frankly, about 200 miles from civilization. (Not quite that bad.) But we are in a very rural agricultural area. But upon check in, we were given several brochures that should provide us with fun things to do in the area. And the people who run the place are super nice. That always earns points with me.

And even though there were a few snow flurries during our escape, for most of the drive we had off and on sunshine.

So, as soon as we were set up, I started building a pot of chili. With a hot meal in our tummy, we read for a short while, then looked at each other and decided an after-dinner splash of Salted Caramel Bailey’s would be a fitting end to an exciting day. So, cheers to snow, safe travels, a trailer that keeps us warm and dry, and to the good life in general.

       

Our lovely site at Tucannon River RV Park

Wednesday, April 19, 2023 – Tucannon River RV Resort, site 23

Woke to sunshine. And even better, no snow on the ground. But it had been just a bit below freezing last night because when Andy turned on the water, there was none.

We had been using our tank water for several days by now, but Andy felt it would be safe to use the park’s water since the predicted nighttime temperature was just around freezing. But again, lesson learned. When in doubt, disconnect the hose and store it in the truck. And use the trailers pump and the onboard water supply. 

But after breakfast, Andy checked things out. And all he had to do was remove a few icy chunks from where the hose attached to the trailer, and once again we had fresh water from the resort flowing freely.

Then it was time for me to write a bit and then study up on all the fun things there were to do in this area of the state. So, while Andy was taking a short walk along the Tucannon River, I was making a list.

And the first thing I found to do sounded exactly like the kind of adventure we enjoy. So, a visit to Pataha Flour mills must happen while we are here. But that’s a visit for tomorrow, because they are only open on Thursdays and Fridays from 11:00 am to 2:00 pm. So, today – Palouse Falls (our 2nd visit)

Some friends we met along the way. Obviously scared to death of us. Yah, right!

Among the scablands scoured by floods from the Ice Age, Palouse Falls remains part of the unspoiled scenery that reminds us just how beautiful waterfalls can be when left alone to nature.

The Palouse River, which was responsible for the Palouse Falls, was the geological legacy of repeated glacial dams and floods (especially the Great Missoula Flood) from the Ice Age. In fact, Palouse Falls was said to be the only year-round waterfall that resulted from this turbulent history, and it actually resulted from a cataclysmic backup of the Palouse River that caused its watercourse to be re-routed!

The accompanying canyons and hills surrounding both the falls and the deep gorge here provided clues to violence of the geological forces at work from that last major Ice Age. The Palouse River runs through this narrow cataract and drops 200 feet to a churning bowl. From there, the current moves swiftly through a winding gorge of columnar basalt to its southern end at the mighty Snake River. Carved more than 13,000 years ago, Palouse Falls is among the last active waterfalls on the Ice Age floods path.

And boy oh boy was there a lot of water falling today. Dirty water, at that! (There’s been a lot of rain over in this part of the state too.) But even if the water wasn’t crystal clear, it was never-the-less magnificent to behold.

On our way back to camp from the falls, Andy asked me if I was interested in seeing the Little Goose Lock and Dam. And of course, I said yes! So, turning off state route 261, we proceeded 8 miles up the Snake River to the dam.

Little Goose Lock and Dam was the third of four dams constructed as part of the Lower Snake River Project, authorized in the Rivers and Harbors Act of 1945. Construction began in 1963 and three turbine units were operational in 1970. Then three more turbine units were added and operational by 1978.

The lake formed by the dam is called Lake Bryan and extends from the dam upstream for 37 miles to Lower Granite Dam. The dam provides navigation, hydropower generation, fish and wildlife habitat, recreation, and incidental irrigation. The dam is 3,200 feet long with an effective height of about 100 feet.

After viewing the dam from every angle, we decided to head back to camp for lunch. But after about 3 miles with the mighty Snake River on our right, Andy spotted a barge making its way up the river. So, we turned around and followed the barge back to the dam. We had been very impressed with the magnitude of the lock and truly wanted to see it in action.

So, one hour later we had pictures of the barge and tug on the river, going into the lock, then coming out of the lock, and on its way probably to Lewiston, Idaho. (At least, that’s our best guess where that barge was headed. We know for sure it wasn’t Portland, or the poor barge captain was headed in the wrong direction!)  Then back to camp for a very late lunch.  

View of the dam from the visitor overlook.

View into the lock from the drawbridge on the downriver side.

A barge heading upriver to the lock.

Notice the drawbridge going up as the barge approaches the lock.

Here it comes!

In it goes.

Once the barge and tug are safely in the lock, the heavy doors close and the drawbridge comes back down. And the lock fills, very quickly I might add. Probably only 5-7 minutes.

And there it is. Ready to come out onto Lake Bryon and be on its way.

But first the drawbridge on the upriver side has to be lifted and the water gate that is in place on this side lowered so the barge can pass over it. Very exciting to watch.

We were so close as the barge left the lock that we could have had a decent conversation with the guys on the barge without raising our voices.

And there she goes happily chugging her way towards the next lock at the Lower Granite dam, 37 miles upstream.

After a light lunch of cheese and crackers, we actually sat outside for a whole 20 minutes before the wind came up and sent us scurrying back into our trailer. For me that makes a total of 30 minutes on this entire trip that I have been able to sit outside and read. Next year – our spring trip will be in May! Maybe even June!

After a late dinner, it was read and off to bed at 10:04 pm. Another exciting day in the great state of Washington.       

Thursday, April 20, 2023 – Tucannon River RV Resort, site 23

Well, just as we thought things couldn’t get any better, we woke to blue skies. Not a cloud in sight. With predictions of warmer weather coming in. Yes, maybe a bit of rain this evening, but temperatures in the 60s for tomorrow. Happy days! Because our dear friends Jim and Margo were scheduled to pull into the site right next to ours later that afternoon. Then for tonight and tomorrow night we would be blessed with their company.

We always have a good time with these two wonderful people. I have known Jim since he was about 18 and I was 28 or 29. He was dating the daughter of good friends of mine and came to a Halloween party at my home. After he and our friend’s daughter stopped seeing each other, as a group, we decided to keep Jim because he was such a nice young man. And the rest, as they say, is history.

And when Jim met and married Margo, we were so happy for both him and for us. Because Margo is a peach. So, 50 years of friendship. With hopes for lots more years to come.

About 11:15 am we decided to head towards Pomeroy for gas and groceries. Pomeroy is the only incorporated town in Garfield County. Even so, we were not expecting a whole lot from this town. However, we had to go through the town of Pomeroy anyway to reach our real destination – Pataha Flour Mills. Which we were really looking forward to visiting.   Pomeroy not only had 2 gas stations, it was home to a very nice, but small grocery store. The produce all looked good, and we were able to find everything that was on our list. And the store was super clean and the man at the cash register very pleasant.  So, if you are ever near Pomeroy and need groceries or adult beverages, I recommend Pomeroy Foods. But before we went to the grocery store, we passed through Pomeroy on our way to Pataha Flour Mills for both lunch and a self-guided tour through the mill.

Pataha Flour Mills, also known as the Houser Mill, was originally founded by John Houser. PFM is unique in that it is one of the last mills left fully intact, with dozens of crafted machines, pulleys, and gizmos everywhere, almost untouched since its inception in the late 1800’s. (1878 to be exact) Having four floors, access is possible through a ramp system which meanders throughout the bin (crib) areas. 

Pataha Flour Mills is probably one of the most unusual stops in the area, as it is a cafe, museum, and a church with services on certain days of the week. The cool thing is you can go all the way to the top of the mill and all the way down to the basement. The tour is self-guided with explanations along the way.

The cafe serves a wide array of choices and the interesting and completely unique thing about this café is that there are no prices on the menu. And they do not present you with a check. There is no check. If asked, your server will tell you to pay what you can afford. So, of course we paid much more than the cost of the meal since there was no admission to walk through the mill either. A totally grand experience all around. I highly suggest you visit this treasure when next you are in this part of the world.

The dining room.

The church part of the establishment.

Andy at the very top of the mill.

We are so used to locking and setting our alarm system even if we are going to our local grocery store. When we arrived at this campground, we were told that the office is open 24 hours a day. And to please avail ourselves of their lending library. An office open 24/7? When was the last time you experienced that kind of trust. It still blows my mind. But I think it is wonderful. And I hope these folks are never given a reason to change their policy. Because it is truly refreshing.

When we got back to the trailer, I started preparing Pork Paprikash Stew with Egg Noodles for dinner. Then it was sit back and relax and wait for Jim and Margo to arrive.

And sure enough, around 4:30, the road weary warriors pulled into the RV park. They had left Stanwood around 10:00 am and driven about 290 miles. Jim in the motorcoach and Margo behind the wheel of their Ford Explorer following Jim all the way. So, after setting up their rig, they were ready for a safe arrival drink and appetizers. Then the pork stew I had made and salad. For dessert, apple pie (from the Pataha Flour Mills café) with either sharp white cheddar cheese or vanilla bean ice cream. (Or both.) Then an after-dinner tot.

Since we have a small trailer, and they have a big motorcoach, meals are always served either in their rig or if it’s sunny and warm, outside. But wherever we eat, the vittles are always good.

Then it was back to our trailer, a bit of reading, and into our cozy bed for a great night’s sleep. Another wonderful day on the road. 

Friday, April 21, 2023 – Tucannon River RV Resort, site 23

Well just like in Camelot, it rained during the night. But by morning, there were only fluffy clouds in the sky. And by the time we were up, about 8:30 am, the clouds were parting, and sunshine was happily streaming in the back window of our trailer. Oh, that it would always be the case. Rain while we slept and sunshine while we played.  

At 10:00 am we descended on Jim and Margo for eggs benedict. Now, not everyone serves eggs benedict for breakfast while camping. But Jim does. And what a treat. After breakfast we decided to go visit Palouse Falls because this would be Jim and Margo’s first visit. They were duly impressed.

When we got back to the RV park we tried sitting outside, but that only lasted for about 30 minutes before it was decided by all, that it was just a little bit too cold to enjoy the out of doors the way God intended. That is, without having to be wrapped up in every bit of outer clothing we own. So, back inside our respective wheeled domiciles for a couple hours of reading, writing, naps, and a game or two of solitaire.

At 5:00 pm it was happy hour. 

Then into the thriving burg of Dayton for beer and pizza at the Chief Spring’s Fire and Irons Brew Pub. Great beer and pizza.

Then back to camp for a nightcap in Jim and Margo’s motorcoach. After a wee dram, it was back to our trailer for about 30 minutes before we agreed that we had had enough fun for one day. Lights out at 10:00 pm. Yet another fine day in eastern Washington.

Saturday, April 22, 2023 – Potholes State Park, site 4 

Well, some days start great and end great, but in the middle, not so much. And some days you get lucky after a horrific experience. That was basically our day in a nutshell. After taking breakfast over to Jim and Margo’s rig for our last morning together, we hurried on back to our trailer to work our magic towards departure. So, after we were all ready to head out, there were hugs all around.

Now please realize, it’s not like we won’t be seeing this couple in the very near future since they live in the Smokey Point area. But still, hugs are always in order with these folks.

So, on the road again towards our next 3-night stay.

Now, some RV resorts are magnificent. The Warden Lake RV Resort, however, in my humble opinion, where we were originally booked, was about as far towards the other end of the spectrum as possible.

First of all, there was a gate at the entrance. Then there was no one in the office to sign us in or provide us with directions to our site. There was a number to call, where the phone was answered just with a “hello”. Not even the name of the resort. But we were provided with the secret pass number to open the gate and told that we were assigned to site number 6. And that someone would be in the office at 4:30.

Upon arrival at site number 6, we were greeted with mud all over the ground in front of the trailer parking area. Then the next thing that caught my eye was that when parked, our big back window would be about 4 feet from the side of a funky old trailer surrounded with junk. And we would have had to go into that trailer’s yard (if you can call it a yard) for our electrical hookup.

Next came the lifting of an overturned blue barrel over the water hookup. The water post and hook-up were encased with peeling insolation material, enough so that you would practically have to dig into this mess to find the faucet. And if that wasn’t bad enough, the dump portal was at the middle back of the site. We would have needed an extension dump hose to even use the thing. And everywhere along the perimeter of this “resort” were trailers obviously there on an all-the-time basis. The only sites reserved for travelers appeared to be sites 1-6. And 1-5 were vacant. At this point, we decided that there was no way in hell we were going to spend even five more minutes at this place. So, now, site number 6 was also ready to receive traveling guests at this “resort”.

I always like to try new places to camp. And really, I think this is only the 3^rd or 4^th time in 30 years of trailering that we have decided that taking our chances finding another campground was better than honoring our reservation. So, after going through the exit where a sign warned us not to back up because of the spikes that would blow our tires if we did so, we headed for Potholes State Park. Where I had tried to book a site back on January 2^nd but was unable to do so. And we got lucky. Even at 3:00 pm on a Saturday afternoon there were 4 sites still open. I asked the nice ranger to pick a good site since at this point, I was feeling less than adequate at choosing a campground much less a site. And we love this park, so we would be happy in any campsite that was open.

 As it turned out, site 4 had a nice amount of grass and trees behind our trailer and not a junky trailer and yard to be seen.

After we got set up, I called the RV “Resort” as a consideration to tell them we would not be staying with them. And I got a bit testy in my message, because I informed them that I expected a full refund. I later got a call from the manager informing me that they had a no refund policy. When I enumerated why I felt we deserved a refund, she apparently took umbrage to my calling the site we had been assigned the worst site we had ever encountered much less been assigned. She then proclaimed, “you could have asked for a better site”. Except of course, there was no one around to ask. And why weren’t we assigned a “better site” to begin with? Why were we given the worst site in the whole campground? Except of course, there were no better sites! (And no, I am not proud of my behavior during the conversation. But what I said was true. I just should have left it unsaid.) So, I sent an email apologizing, and I got one back telling me that they were going to make a huge exception to their rule and refund us for 1 night. So, instead of $165, we were only out $110. What I didn’t tell the manager was that I would gladly have paid another $165 just to not have to stay at their “resort”. Ever!

From the picture taken of the resort from probably a drone, I should have noticed how close the trailers were to each other. But what I could not have ascertained from the picture, or the written information provided on their website, was that most of the sites were occupied by year-round renters. And the trailers were close enough together that you wouldn’t have to leave the comfort of your Barcalounger to have an intimate conversation with the guy in the next trailer!

If you have never been in a campground where most of the sites are filled with full-time occupants, you would not know that some of the trailers can be dilapidated and surrounded by junk. In this resort there was a combination of nice trailers and some that were past their pull date.

Our first clue that this might not be the best place for us was the gate. Even though we were quite a way from Moses Lake, this indicated that there were some safety issues. So, lesson learned. Next time I plan a trailer trip, I will not book at a private park until I call the manager/owner first and really get the lay of the land. (So, to speak.)

But once we got settled in Potholes SP, and I had a chance to calm down, the late afternoon and evening were very pleasant.

Then an early to bed after a game of Skip-Bo and a couple chapters in each of our books.

Sunday, April 23, 2023 – Potholes State Park, site 4

It had rained overnight, and we woke to clouds, but the rain had ceased. We took our time over breakfast, then decided to visit the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge. We had visited the refuge last time we were camped at Potholes but were eager to see this interesting area again.

Paraphrased from Wikipedia – Columbia National Wildlife Refuge is a scenic mixture of rugged cliffs, canyons, lakes, and sagebrush grasslands. Formed by fire, ice, floods, and volcanic tempest, and carved by periods of extreme violence of natural forces, the refuge lies in the middle of the scablands of central Washington. The area reveals a rich geologic history highlighted by periods of dramatic activity, each playing a major role in shaping the land. The northern half of the refuge, south of Potholes Reservoir, is a rugged jumble of cliffs, canyons, lakes, and remnants of lava flow. This part of the Scablands, known as the Drumheller Channels, is the most spectacularly eroded area of its size in the world and was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 1986.

The favorable mixture of lakes and surrounding irrigated croplands, combined with generally mild winters and protection provided by the refuge, attracts large numbers of migrating and wintering mallard ducks, Canada geese, and tundra swans.

Mammal species that inhabit this refuge include raccoon, mink, badger, elk, coyote, skunk, Canadian lynx, two species of deer, bobcat, beaver, porcupine, river otter, muskrat, and cougar.  

The refuge is located in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains, and the climate is arid and desert-like. The park receives less than eight inches of annual rainfall on average. The wildlife is supported by water routed from the Grand Coulee Dam, and the park is part of the Columbia Basin Project.  

Exerts from nwcouncil.org “The Columbia Basin Project is an immense irrigation development in central Washington that provides water from the Columbia River to about 671,000 acres on the Columbia Plateau. The project is in the Big Bend area of the river, which includes the cities of Ephrata, Quincy, Moses Lake, and Othello.

Water from Lake Roosevelt behind Grand Coulee Dam is pumped uphill to a 27-mile-long reservoir, Banks Lake, from which it flows by gravity into a series of canals. The project includes more than 300 miles of main canals, 2,000 miles of laterals and 3,500 miles of drains and wasteways. The project provides irrigation water to 2,050 farms. Apples, wheat, and corn are the largest-volume crops. There also are large herds of dairy cows and beef cattle. Annually, the cash value of farm production in the Columbia Basin Project is about $630 million.”

Visiting this area for people like Andy and me is not just about its history. Or why it was created. It’s about the beauty of the land. While driving over the earthen dam that creates Potholes Reservoir, we had to make a stop and photograph a flotilla of geese close to shore. Although the picture below provides some of the beauty of this gathering, it does not reproduce the sound. It seems the geese were either having a sing-along, a huge argument, or a big old gab fest. Because the noise frequency would go up and down as if a serious discussion was in progress. Sometimes approval was expressed. Sometimes dissonance. But whatever the subject, there were definitely differences of opinion being rendered. Or so it seemed to these two uninitiated observers.

After leaving the flock to figure out whatever was causing the ruckus, we turned into the refuge itself. And for miles and miles we traversed gravel roads seeking yet another pothole, lake, or overlook. And eventually found an area that we had missed previously. On our way out we discovered another area yet to be explored but decided to save it for our next visit. Basically, we decided to wait because we were hungry. It was about 3:30 pm and we had missed lunch. So, we decided to go back to the trailer, change our clothes, and head into Moses Lake for an early dinner at Michael’s on the Lake.

After a nice dinner we did a bit of grocery shopping. Then back to the trailer for a game of Skip-Bo and a bit of reading before an early (again) lights out. Another wonderful day in this amazing part of the world.

The flock of geese.  

As we started into the reserve, these little birds kept landing then taking off then landing again and again to munch on whatever it was in this muddy gravel. We couldn’t figure out either what type of birds they were or what in the heck they were finding to eat. It was fascinating just to watch.

One of the potholes.

Pothole coming up on the right.

A canal we crossed.

Tuesday, April 25, 2023 – Wanapum State Park, site 22

Nice weather again today.

The sky as we were getting ready to leave Potholes SP.

Because we had only about an hour drive to our next campground, we took our own sweet time over breakfast and breaking camp. So, at about 11:00 am we were on the road towards Vantage. We headed up into the Frenchman Hills and down into Royal City and just stayed on SR 26 to SR 243 then onto I-90 for the short trip over the Columbia River at Vantage. Then the first exit after the bridge and into Wanapum SP. And site 22. (Actually, the new name for this park and area is Ginkgo Petrified Forest/Wanapum Recreation Area. But for me it will always be Wanapum SP. Sorry state of Washington. But I’m too old to change now. So, Wanapum SP it shall remain in my book!)

After setting up camp, we had lunch and basically did nothing but sit outside in the sun until about 6:30 pm when I decided it might be time for me to start dinner.

After dinner it was reading and writing until our pillows started calling our names. And of course, when our pillows demand attention, we most often heed the demand. After all, most of the time our pillows know what’s better for us than we do for ourselves!

Another truly wonderful day along the banks of the mighty Columbia.    

Wednesday, April 26, 2023 – Wanapum State Park, site 22

This morning the skies were a bit overcast, but not a drop of rain in sight.

After a late breakfast, Andy decided to take a hike while I caught up on my writing and reading. Since it was going to be warm again today, taking my book outside and enjoying the peace and quiet and watching the placid lake formed by the Wanapum Dam sounded like heaven.

Because I knew that as soon as we got home on Thursday afternoon, life would once again resume its frantic pace. Not that I don’t like to stay busy, but the older I get the more I appreciate the quiet times as well as the busy times. So, when almost forced to slow down, I take full advantage of the situation.  

And as usual, when approaching the end of a trip, whether it be trailering or visiting a foreign country, I get excited about getting home. Mainly because I miss our kitties and our friends. And of course, I miss the live music that comes along with being married to a musician. And listening to Andy practice classical music while I putter around the house performing various tasks.

And I miss trying out new recipes and passing the good ones on to all of you. Oh, I do try out recipes in the trailer, but writing them up and posting them never seems to happen. I am always too busy writing up my travel reports. And BTW, I love keeping a travel log. I have been keeping a journal of my trips since the first time I went to Europe in 1978. My former husband and I pulled our 3 youngest children out of school for 5 weeks towards the end of their 4^th, 5^th, and 6^th grade years. They were all doing well in school, but the teachers did ask that they keep a journal in lieu of homework. Since they were required to write down their experiences every day, I decided I would do the same thing. And I have yet to stop. And don’t foresee any change in that regard. It is just such a great way to not only remember the day but to also be almost forced to learn more about the area you are visiting. And I have always enjoyed learning. So, for me a win/win situation.

After Andy got back from his hike, we drove into Ellensburg for dinner. We enjoyed a nice dinner at the Ellensburg Pasta Company, where we had eaten a couple of times before.

Then back to the trailer to sit outside for a short while before climbing back into the trailer for our final night on the road. We would have stayed outside longer, but the wind was coming up not only chilling the air, but us right along with it. It seems like every evening along the river the wind comes up a bit as sunset approaches. But this evening it was particularly forceful. So, we went to bed. Before that, however, we folded our outdoor chairs and laid them beside the trailer. We thought the Koolatron sitting on our collapsible table would be fine. So, to bed with pleasant thoughts about our next trailer trip.      

Thursday, April 27, 2023 – Camano Island, site 1082 Lightning Way

Well, this had not been the good night’s sleep we had counted on. It was so windy that neither one of us slept soundly, that is, when we were able to sleep at all! So, both of us were pretty groggy when we awoke. Since this was our last day on the road, we had to dump both the black and grey water and basically clean the holding tanks as best we could. You can’t actually get to the holding tanks, but most modern trailers have a mechanism to force water through the black water tank to basically flush out most of the impurities. Then I always pour some dish washing detergent down the toilet and give the tank another flush. But all of this takes time. And we needed to be home in time for Andy to get to rehearsal in Mount Vernon by 6:30 pm.

We were doing just fine until we were nearly home. There was a huge backup starting as we were coming down the hill into Stanwood. And I said, wow, we hit rush hour. Nope, there was a crash on Camano near the Lutheran church, and I have never seen such a mess. All the back ways around the island, once you actually made it onto the island, were totally jugged up. Cars everywhere. But we made it to our storage area to park the trailer and then to the house with exactly 15 minutes to spare. So, Andy parked the truck, went inside for a quick change of clothes, and he was on his way. Luckily, we had stopped for a late lunch, so he wasn’t starving, but having that wasted hour would really have been nice. But we were home.

And even if this trip had seen more rain and cold weather than any of our previous spring trips, we still had a great time. We always have a fantastic time when we are visiting state parks and this beautiful country of ours. And who knows how much longer our good health will hold out. So, the more we can see and do while we are still able to see and do, the happier I’ll be. Because memories are a precious thing. I love to reflect on the things I can no longer do. Like ski. Because I have some terrific memories of our close encounters with snowy hillsides. And in my mind, I can still see me following Andy down a ski run wondering whether my legs were going to give out before my enthusiasm for the sport led to disaster. And then deciding that one more run surely wouldn’t be too much to ask of my weary legs. Etc., etc.

So, this trip with all its inclement weather was just as wonderful as if we had been able to sit outside every day. The snow was a bit unsettling. But we made it through in flying colors. Am I ready to go again? You bet I am!      

Theoretically Chez Carr Cuisine is a food blog. But if you have read any of the rhetoric that sometimes accompanies my recipes, you know that over the past few years I have started writing about other aspects of our lives. Often, I write about injustices that make me crazy. Hopefully that doesn’t offend any of you, but I simply can’t stop myself from making comments when I perceive an inequity that upsets my delicate sensibilities. (Or I consider just – plain – WRONG!)

Another thing I started doing a few years ago was writing a journal about our trailer adventures. For 30 years I have been documenting our overseas adventures, but not until lately did I decide our trailer trips should also be recorded for posterity.

So, what you will find below are my written thoughts and pictures of another great road trip. But first, I thought you might be interested in my food planning and preparations before our trailer wheels even begin to spin.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but I really do go a bit nutsy making certain that we eat like royalty while away from home. Why this is, I have no rational explanation. I just know that I have been this way since the first camping trip I planned for myself and others when I was 20 years old. Probably has to do with not wanting to starve in the wilderness. Or not letting my culinary standards suffer while I’m away from home. Like I said, there is just no accounting for some of my inclinations. However, I have never had anyone complain because I brought 2 kinds of cookies, prepared home-made salad dressings, or marinated meat to be BBQd while camping!

So, what does my overzealous outlook towards camping food look like? All will be revealed if you decide to read this introduction to the main event.

First of all, I live by making lists. I didn’t need to make checklists when I was younger, but those days have gone the way of reel-to-reel tapes. So, first I decide what dishes I want to make either before I leave home or on the road. Then I make a grocery list. Then either Andy or I make at least 4 grocery runs. (I’m not kidding!) Next, I prepare whatever I plan to freeze, refrigerate, or store in our trailer pantry. Then I make sure I have packed whatever I need to prepare the other dishes while we are on the road. Then, you got it – I check them off my list. Then the day we transfer everything to our trailer, I check the items off my master list as they get safely tucked away in our trailer.

This probably sounds a little anal to many of you, but that’s probably because you aren’t a senior citizen. If you are, then you know lists are almost mandatory!

Most of this trip we will be traveling with Andy’s sister Katie and her husband Rick. Which means Katie, who BTW is an excellent cook, will make dinner one night, and I will provide dinner the next. And if there happens to be a decent restaurant in the vicinity, we go out for a meal. Sharing the responsibility for furnishing a dinner for 4 every other night or every third night is the best of all possible circumstances. Katie and I each get a break, and we all know that dinner is going to be delectable.

So, what do I have planned for this trip? Which incidentally happens to be shorter than most of our usual forays into nature. So, only 2½ weeks rather than 3½-4 weeks.

The following is a list of the food items I made at home before our trip. Recipes already on this site are highlighted. BTW, this is by no means all the food I brought along, just the items I prepared ahead to give myself more time to read, relax, visit, and enjoy the out-of-doors.   

Oatmeal Raisin Quick Bread

Cinnamon Granola with Dried Fruit and Nuts  

Tomato Basil Soup

Beef Stew   

Viennese Liptauer

Marinated Goat Cheese  

Beef Jerky

Teriyaki Jerky

Marinara Sauce

Swedish Meatballs  

Beef Stew     

Oven Roasted Beets  

Creamy Balsamic Salad Dressing

Sweet and Spicy Glazed Pecans  

Cranberry Orange Oatmeal Cookies with Walnuts

Chocolate Chip Shortbread Cookies  

So, you see, I do a lot of prep work at home. Having pre-made sauces, soups, roasted veggies, granola, cookies, etc. makes my life so much easier while we are on the road. As much as I love to cook, our trailer kitchen is a bit confining if I am preparing a main, side, and salad all at the same time. So, as much as I can get done ahead of time, the better I like my trailer kitchen.

Thursday, September 8, 2022 – Lake Wenatchee State Park (SP) North Campground – site 178

Well, due to foreseen events over which we had no control, (house cleaners scheduled from 8:00 am to 10:00 am) we didn’t leave our trailer storage facility until about 11:45 am. This was just fine, because we were only driving about 134 miles today and didn’t want to arrive too early. Although all campgrounds have stated arrival times, as long as we don’t arrive before the required departure time (of the previous camper), we have never been turned away or asked to come back at the official arrival time. Or not yet at least!

Anyway, we made it about as far as Coles Corner (turn off on to Lake Wenatchee Highway) before we became aware of smoke. Actually, quite a bit of smoke. To the point where you could definitely smell smoke in the air. Apparently, there was a large fire in the Pasayten Wilderness, and it was drifting down valley to share its largess with us. (Somethings really needn’t be shared. And smoke from fires is one of those things.) But regardless, we arrived to find a lovely camp site.

As we were turning onto the Lake Wenatchee Highway, we called our dear friend Linda informing her that we were close to camp.

We had previously invited her to join us in camp for cocktails and dinner. So, about an hour later she pulled into camp. Linda has been one of our dearest friends for many years. So, it is always a joy to get together with her.

After dinner it was our usual read for a while and then off to bed. A great beginning to yet another wonderful adventure.

Friday, September 9, 2022 – Lakeshore RV Park, Chelan, WA – site 64

Woke to smoke. Lots of smoke. Since we didn’t have a long run, we piddled around camp until about noon and then headed out.

Great drive and as we approached Wenatchee through the beautiful Tumwater Canyon, there was less and less smoke. And when we were just outside of Wenatchee proper and had turned on to 97 heading north to Chelan along the mighty Columbia, the smoke had all but disappeared. Yeah! So, a beautiful and short (about 54 miles) drive to our next destination.

We had never camped at this city park before, but I am sure we will be returning again and again in the future. Nice sites. Fairly close together, but close to the lake and downtown Chelan. Lots of green grass and well-maintained facilities.

At about 4:30 we headed up to Pateras about 20 miles north of Chelan to enjoy happy hour with our great friends Tim and Suzie who were camped at the Pateras City Park. Right on the river (Columbia) and a first come, first served facility. So, no hookups, just a lovely and casual place to spend a night or two.

After spending about 90 minutes with our dear friends, we made our way back to Chelan for a less than exciting Mexican dinner at a less than exciting restaurant. Then back to the trailer for a bit of writing (me), reading (both of us), and another early lights out. My one regret about the visit with Tim and Suzie is that I didn’t take a picture of our dear friends. I guess I wasn’t yet in “photographer and blogger” mode. That obviously changed as the trip went on, but not in time to capture our time in Pateras. Grrrrrr

I don’t know why it is, but we both sleep longer when we are in the trailer. Maybe it’s because we are more relaxed. At least for me, I know for certain that one of the reasons I sleep better in the trailer is because I am only sharing the bed with one male. Perhaps, I should explain.

When we are at home, one of our cats (Max) spends his entire night cuddled up to me. When he gets up in the middle of the night for whatever reason, he is ever so gentle about lifting his body away from mine. But a few minutes later when he comes back to bed, he plops his whole weight on whatever part of my body he chooses to grace with his presence. In other words, no gentle cuddling up to me for this guy. And then only after he has made a dramatic jump onto the bed from the headboard. So, do I sleep better without at least two nightly daring leaps onto the bed? Yes, yes I do! But do I miss him and his brother while we are away? You bet I do!

Another great day on the road.

Saturday, September 10, 2022 – Lakeshore RV Park

Woke to sunshine and not very much smoke. Andy checked the weather and smoke conditions on his phone and learned that there was a bad fire on Highway 20 near Skykomish and that 20 was closed and probably would be all weekend. It was amazing to realize that we had just traveled that route on Thursday and there hadn’t been even a breath of smoke in the air.

We also learned that the west side of the state was experiencing smoke far greater than here on Lake Chelan. In fact, our dear friend and next-door neighbor Mark informed us there was ash on outdoor surfaces around our homes. So, whereas we thought before we left that we were going to the smokey side of the state, so far it is the exact opposite. But wind is fickle. Things could change dramatically in just a matter of hours. But for now, we are enjoying the sun and lack of a heavy smoke presence.

About 3:00 our good friends Craig and Marsha pulled into camp. Last year we had planned to camp together, but we cancelled our reservation at Sun Lakes because temperatures were reported to get up to 113-degrees, and that would be just too bloody hot for any of us. So, we bailed at the last minute.

This year, it appeared that our trip also might need to be aborted because of fires, but so far, we are doing OK.

We offered to host happy hour that evening, so Craig, Marsha, and their dear friends Doug and Joanie, who currently live in Port Ludlow but are camped right next to Craig and Marsha, came over for drinks and hearty appetizers. We sat around talking and noshing for a couple of hours. We had a great time. We thoroughly enjoyed spending time with Craig and Marsha and meeting their interesting and delightful friends.

Before they left our camp site, we made plans to meet for lunch and do a bit of champagne tasting the next day at Karma Vineyards.

Sunday, September 11, 2022 – Lake Shore RV Park

Woke to hazy skies, but warm enough to sit outside and read.

After breakfast Andy went for his second bicycle ride with Craig while I stayed in camp and got caught up on this travel log.

I have reached the age that if I don’t write down the events of the day the same day, they become lost somewhere in my head, possibly never to be recovered. So, a basically lazy morning for me and a good workout for Mr. C.

We had decided on Saturday that we would visit Karma Vineyards for some champagne tasting. So, off we went at about 12:30 to sip some champagne and indulge ourselves in a few of the appetizers this beautiful winery has to offer.  Karma Vineyards is on the south shore of Lake Chelan and the setting is absolutely lovely. Lush and plentiful plantings, an enchanting koi pond, and channeled water flowing freely from several man-made waterfalls. Delightful!

After visiting the winery, we decided to look for a fruit and vegetable stand. I hadn’t brought any seasonal fruit with me (plums, nectarines, peaches, etc.)  because, well, we were coming to Eastern Washington. It just seemed like the right thing to do was to wait until we got to the fruit growing part of the state and buy from local orchardists. Right! Although we looked all over Chelan and even up the north shore all the way to Manson, we didn’t find one open fruit and veggie stand. Bummer. But. Safeway to the rescue! (They at least carried local peaches!)

For dinner we decided to potluck. So, we all gathered at our trailer and ate, drank, and conversed until it was dark and time for all good boys and girls to head for their pillows. We have always referred to getting in bed after a long day as “blessed horizontality”. And that was actually my last thought as I drifted off to sleep. Well, that and thinking how lucky we were to have friends who shared our passion for camping. Again, another great day of friendship and fun.

Monday, September 12, 2022 – Lake Shore RV Park

Ah, waking up to the pitter pat of precipitation on the roof of our trailer. Not completely unexpected, so we were prepared for the eventuality. And a tiny spattering here and there was all we got until late afternoon. Late afternoon we actually got rain. Not just a sprinkle, drizzle, spatter, squirt, but the real thing!

And not too much smoke in the morning. However, we did learn that the fire near Skykomish was totally uncontrolled and highway 2 would be closed until further notice.

We also were pleased to hear that the air quality was better at home, so that relieved some of our concerns for our friends and family on the west side of the state.

After breakfast, Andy set off on a lakeshore walk with Marsha while I stayed in camp to write. At this stage in my life, I absolutely love to set my thoughts in print. So, spending a bit of time each day playing with words is heavenly.

At about 12:30 pm we descended on the Siren Song Winery for some wine tasting and to feast on a wonderful charcuterie platter and a delicious smoked salmon spread with crostini. Good wine, good food, and great company.

After a couple of fun hours sipping and tasting, we moved to Tsillan (the spelling of the word Chelan by the indigenous people of this region) Cellars for another round of wine tasting.

Both of the wineries we visited today were absolutely amazing. Great views of the lake and surrounding hills, beautiful architecture, and lovely and inventive outdoor areas to sit and relax and take in the scene. Very nice way to spend an afternoon.

For dinner, the six of us (Craig, Marsha, Doug, Joannie, Andy, and I) returned to the Tsillan Cellars to dine in their formal dining room. Great food, great ambiance, and again – great company.

After dinner we returned to camp to watch the tail end of the Seahawks versus the Denver Broncos game in Craig and Marsha’s trailer. The Seahawks won.

Then it was back to our trailer to help the hero of my book catch the bad guy and Andy to finish reading The Killing Room by Peter May. Another fine day in paradise.

Tuesday, September 13, 2022 – Cedar Mountain Farm B&B (and RV park), Athol, Idaho – site 3

After saying goodbye to our friends with promises to camp together again next year we headed out of Chelan at about 11:00 am. This was a driving day, so we knew we would be traveling some bi-ways almost new, and some that would be completely new to us. We dearly love driving new roads. There is just such a sense of adventure when you don’t know or can’t remember what’s ahead. And of course, with Andy on board, we can’t get lost. I don’t care if we are in Argentina, Turkey, New Zealand, or the Amalfi Coast of Italy – Mr. C. always knows exactly where we are. And a few times over the years, we have been in some very strange places where we should have felt at least a smidgeon of trepidation. But we have yet to sleep in a rental car or fail to find our lodging destination. (One of the many reasons I keep him around.)

Heading east out of Chelan we traveled towards Chelan Falls and across the Beebe Bridge before turning onto the MacNeil Canyon Road. This road led us up a very long ascent (about 8 miles of 12-degree grade) to a large, flat plateau. (We were very glad we hadn’t come down this road, because going down would have been very hard on both the truck and the trailer brakes. Not to mention our nerves!)

After MacNeil Canyon our route took us onto State Route (SR) 172 and through Mansfield. And then to a junction with Highway 2 west of Coulee City. We stayed on Highway 2 all the way to Spokane with only two stops. One for gas and one for a great burger at Doxie’s Diner in Wilber, Washington.

When we arrived in Spokane, we found that our route north out of Spokane required us to follow detour signs. Detours are never any fun. And towing a trailer through a city is bad enough. But always having to be on the lookout for detour signs while not having the slightest idea where you are is quite maddening. But like I said above, Mr. C. was born with a built-in compass, so it is impossible to get lost with him either as the driver or navigator.

Eventually we made it through the detour and got back on track heading northeast on SR 290 in Washington/SR 53 in Idaho towards our final destination – Cedar Mountain Farm in Athol, Idaho.

One thing I must say. Eastern Washington has some lovely areas. But they were not in evidence during most of our travels this day. Only when we got close to Spokane did we see any trees or vegetation worth looking at. And I know, wheat fields can be beautiful. (Waving fields of grain, etc.) But by September all that’s left is dry stubble. So, give me trees and mountains any time.  

Upon arrival at Cedar Mountain Farm, we were met by Vicky who welcomed us and assigned us to site 3. Quiet, wooded, with a vista out onto pastureland.

After setting up camp, we were sitting outside reading when Daryl came to welcome us with cookies for the evening and a large scone for our morning repast. And I have to say, I have hated snicker doodles since I was a child. And because I hated them so much, I have never let a single snicker doodle pass my lips as an adult. Until now. And boy oh boy, do I need to apologize to anyone who has ever offered me one of these darlings and had me only sneer at their offering. Because these cookies were fantastic. Now all I have to do is get up the courage to ask for the recipe. But please note: these cookies were not labeled “snicker doodles”. Daryl labeled them “Giggle Doodles” because she said they do a lot more giggling on the farm than they do snickering. So, if I get the recipe or am forced to develop a recipe of my own, my cookies too will be called “giggle doodles”.

After a late dinner of leftovers and a short read, the siren song of our pillows called us to an early bedtime. It had been very fortuitous of us to hide the Koolatron* under the trailer along with our camp chairs, because during the night we had a brief but busy lightning storm (complete with thunderous thunder and a light sprinkling of rain). But safely tucked in our bed we rode out the storm.

Once again, a fine day of comfortable companionship, sightseeing, and setting up camp in a new location. I love our trailer and I truly love visiting different areas of our country. I am well and truly blessed. And if you ever find yourself in this part of the state, we highly recommend this amazing B&B and RV Park. The owners are delightful, the treats (where else are you ever going to get free scones and cookies delivered to your doorstep) delicious, and the setting bucolic. I give this place 10 stars!

*Koolatron – a portable cooler that plugs into an adapter in our truck, so food stays cold while we’re driving. After we arrive at our destination, we plug the Koolatron in the AC outlet on the outside of the trailer. I keep fresh fruit and veggies in ours. If rain threatens, we slip the electric cooler under the trailer. Or if it’s going to freeze, we place it back into the truck until morning. We can’t plug it in unless the truck motor is running. But if it’s threatening to get cool enough to freeze outside, who needs a cooler anyway! Basically, a very handy and efficient means of keeping veggies and fruit (or whatever) cool.

Wednesday, September 14, 2022 – Cedar Mountain Farm B&B

Started the day with a sprinkle of rain. After breakfast which included half of the cinnamon and sugar cream scone that we had been presented with upon arrival, we read for a while outside before deciding how to spend the rest of the day.

Now I don’t know about other folks, but Mr. C. and I could spend our entire day with our noses in books. We fall in the “avid readers” category. So, sitting outside with our glasses firmly affixed to our heads and our minds fully engaged with characters only a truly great author could invent, an entire day could pass without us coming up for air (so to speak). But we hadn’t spent a great deal of time in this area, so we decided to go out for a bit of exploring.

First, we went to the fine town of Spirit Lake. Drove as far up the western shore of the lake as possible, and then back into town for gas and a bit of provisioning. Then we decided to check out Farragut State Park (SP). Farragut is the largest SP in Idaho. Built on the shores of Lake Pend Oreille, the park offers swimming, boating, and very nice camping facilities. After driving the area for a while, we decided to head back to camp for lunch.

After lunch we read for a while (big surprise), and then took a walk around the farm. As you can see from the pictures below, we had a great time playing with the animals. Then back to camp to read some more, cook dinner, and plan our route for the next day.

Then off to bed with dreams of Glacier National Park and spending time with Rick and Katie as we drifted off to sleep.

I don’t often take the time to write about a place we have stayed. But like I said above, the Cedar Mountain Farm is not only unique because of its location, but also because of the people who own and run the farm. Daryl and Vicky make this such a joyful and welcoming experience. And not just because of the cookies and scones. (Of course, that doesn’t hurt.) But mainly because they are genuinely great people, and this farm is so delightful. Where else can you camp and go for a walk and find goats, turkeys, cattle, a very mean horse (or so we were told), and enough farm cats to stave off loneliness for the cats you left at home. There were even 2 orange cats who were friendly and not only wanted to be petted but appeared to love every minute spent with total strangers. (Remind me to have a stern talk with Max and Miles about their people skills when we get home.)

Anyway, our site was quiet, peaceful, and secluded. Who could ask for anything more?

Thursday, September 15, 2022 – Moose Creek RV Resort and B&B, West Glacier, Montana – site 30B

Woke up early this morning because we had gone to bed early the night before. Somehow it often works out that way. Anyway, by 6:30 am we were both up and getting ready for a new day and a new adventure.

After a nice breakfast including the second half of our scone, we set about storing our belongings that if left out would wreak havoc with the inside of the trailer. So, all objects that needed to be contained were in their storage spaces and all of the outside paraphernalia was safely tucked away not to be seen again until we reached our next destination. So, at 9:10 am we said goodbye to the Cedar Mountain Farm and made our way north to Sandpoint, Idaho.

In Sandpoint we turned onto US Highway 2 and stayed on it all the way to West Glacier.           

Now we knew that if we wanted to go the fastest way, we could go the I-5 route. But that is just not our style. We like scenic routes and US Hwy 2 is definitely a very scenic road. We had just been on this same route in 2016, but neither of us had any recollection of doing so. In fact, we had eaten at the same restaurant (The Antlers in Libby, Montana) on our 2016 trip, and again with no remembrance of the occasion. Perhaps as we continue to get older, we won’t even remember the entire state of Montana. And it will be just a wonderful treat to visit this part of the world for the “first time”.

But we made it to camp to join Katie and Rick for the rest of our vacation. Katie is Andy’s sister and Rick is her husband. We have been traveling together for several years now and it’s always an enjoyable experience.

Katie cooked dinner tonight and after eating and drinking our fill, it was back to our trailer for some reading, writing, and another early to bed. As I said earlier, we tend to sleep longer on vacation than we ever do at home. It’s like we are catching up after months of sleep deprivation. Which is hardly the case. We are both retired and can sleep as long as we want. But somehow sleep in our trailer just comes easier. At least it does for me. And I think it must for Andy too. As I write, he is already gently snoring.

Well, that’s it for today. My pillow is beckoning, and I have learned over the years never to ignore the silent call it makes from the bedroom. Because it always knows what’s best for me. And I know it has my best interests at heart.

Friday September 16, 2022 – Moose Creek RV Resort

Woke to low clouds, but no apparent smoke. After a late sleep and a lazy breakfast, we decided that what we really needed was a bit of down time. (And yes, we are no longer the get up early, hit the trails, got to see everything there is to see travelers we used to be. We are more of the “we’ll get going when we get going” kind of folks these days.) Plus, we had been to Glacier 30 years ago when we were young enough to hike many of the fabulous trails that run through the park. And even in 2016 when we were last here, I could still maneuver well enough to do a bit of hiking. Not anymore. Oh, I can still get up a trail, I just can’t come back down. My knees are well and truly shot.

So, it was decided by mutual agreement (all 4 of us) that today was a good day for a drive. So, off we went at about 12:30 pm to join the throng of sightseers just as excited as we were to see or be back in this beautiful National Park. Our destination today was the top of the world, better known as the Going-to-the- Sun Road over Logan Pass. This 50-mile narrow, scenic, scarry piece of engineering excellence is the only American roadway designated as both a National Historic Landmark and a National Civil Engineering Landmark.

And if truth be told, this is not a road to be taken by someone who is afraid of heights or hasn’t been driving for at least 20 years. Because this is a very narrow and winding road, and you must be able to display patience and consideration towards your fellow drivers if you have even the remotest hope of surviving the adventure. This is simply not a road to get from A to B. This is a pull over “anytime the spirit moves you” kind of road. Even if there is no official “pull over” anywhere in sight! But this is truly a road not to be missed. The vistas are glorious even on a cloudy day like today.

After getting back to camp, Rick and Katie decided to do some provisioning while Andy and I sat in our comfy camp chairs and read our books. At about 5:00 pm I decided it was time for me to do some prep work for our evening meal for 4. I had marinated a couple of pork tenderloin that Andy was going to grill, but I needed to make a salad and get things started for cheesy grits.

After dinner and dishes, it was read a bit until Andy decided he had had enough fun for one day. So, being the good sport that I am, I joined him for another long sleep in our comfy trailer bed. And again, a lovely day on the road.

Saturday, September 17, 2022 – Moose Creek RV Resort

Well, what a joy to wake up to clear skies, except for a scattering of small almost round puffy clouds. But virtually no smoke. Lovely.

So, after a leisurely breakfast including a cinnamon roll from the tiny food area at the RV park office, we decided to go into the tiny burg of Hungry Horse (yes that’s the name of the town) to gas up, hit the liquor store (to spend money, not rob the place), and buy a quart of milk for Rick and Katie, we decided to go visit the Hungry Horse Dam.

According to Wikipedia “Hungry Horse Dam is an arch dam* on the South Fork Flathead River. It is located in Flathead National Forest about fifteen miles south of the west entrance to Glacier National Park, nine miles southeast of Columbia Falls, and twenty miles northeast of Kalispell.  At 564 feet in height, the dam was the third largest and second highest concrete dam in the world at the time of its completion in 1953, with a water volume of 3,100,000 cubic yards. The dams’ spillway is the highest morning glory structure** in the world. 

The spillway is controlled by a 64-by-12-foot ring gate. The surface elevation of the reservoir is 3,560 feet above sea level. Seven thousand acres were cleared to make way for the reservoir.

Construction officially began with a weekend of ceremonies in June 1948. In September 1949, workers poured the first concrete. The project eventually used 3 million cubic yards of concrete. Engineers adopted air-entrained concrete to reduce the effect of freeze-thaw cycles and to make the material more stable and workable. They also incorporated fly ash into the concrete mix. Hungry Horse was the first dam built with these innovations. The construction claimed the lives of 23 men.

Construction was completed on July 18, 1953. At a ceremony on October 1, 1952, President Harry S. threw a switch to start power generation. The road across the dam opened to the public on November 2, 1953.

The project contributes to hydroelectric power generation not only at Hungry Horse Dam, but by storing and releasing water for use by downriver hydroelectric dams on the Flathead, Clark Fork, Pend Oreille, and Columbia rivers. About a billion kilowatt–hours are generated annually at Hungry Horse Dam, while in an average year the release water will generate about 4.6 billion kilowatt–hours of power as it passes through the series of downstream powerplants.”

*Arch Dam – An arch dam is designed so that the force of the water against it, known as hydrostatic pressure, presses against the arch, causing the arch to straighten slightly thus strengthening the structure as it pushes into its foundation or abutments.

**Morning Glory Spillways – Morning Glory spillways are also called morning glory, (after the flower) or glory hole spillways. This type of spillway utilizes a crest circular in plan, the uncontrolled flow over which is carried by a vertical or sloping tunnel on to a horizontal tunnel nearly at the stream bed level and eventually to the downstream side. In areas where the surface of the reservoir may freeze, this type of spillway is normally fitted with ice-breaking arrangements to prevent the spillway from becoming ice-bound.

After visiting the dam, we came back to camp to read for a while and then have a bit of lunch. Being not quite sedentary, we decided to hop on US 2 and head towards the eastern gate of Glacier National Park. We made it as far as the Marias pass and turned around. Marias Pass at an elevation of 5,213-feet lies on the southern border of Glacier National Park. It is traversed by US Highway 2 and by the Burlington Northern railway.

Marias Pass is the lowest crossing of the Continental Divide between Canada and central New Mexico. It is also the northernmost pass in the United States open to automobile traffic year-round. (Not much to see at this pass, thus no pictures.)

But a beautiful ride for anyone interested in majestic views of mountains, streams, lakes, dense forests, and frequent train sightings. If you don’t like that sort of thing, well, there is just no hope for some people!

Dinner was provided by Rick and Katie. And as always, delicious and hearty. Grilled marinated boneless leg of lamb, butter and parsley slathered baby potatoes, and grilled romaine hearts. Lemon shortbread for dessert. Gourmet camping fare at its finest.

Then off to our trailer to finish the books we were reading and another glorious night of uninterrupted (by cats) sleep.

Sunday, September 18, 2022 – Moose Creek RV Resort

Woke to haze but not of the smoky variety. Decided to take a ride up to Bowman Lake. This part of the park, and the areas just outside the park, offer limited services. So, basically the remote west side of the park appeals to the more adventuresome and self-sufficient visitors.

Bowman Lake is tucked into the northwestern part of Glacier NP, about 30 miles from the west entrance. The lake is in one of the most remote sections of the park and the road that leads to the lake after leaving Polebridge (more about Polebridge later) is not for the faint of heart. Even though I have been on many a gravel, narrow, windy, uphill, downhill, pot-holed, dusty one lane road, never have I been on one with so many cars coming and going. And even though the last unpaved portion is only 6 miles long and the speed limit is 20 mph, you would have to be a reckless fool to travel at that speed! And yes, we met a few who fit that category perfectly especially on our way up to the lake. And this has to have been the longest 6 miles I have ever encountered. Had I been asked to state the number of miles under oath, I would have sworn that it was at least 15 miles. Maybe even 20! Because that’s what if felt like to me. But back to the lake. Because, even with the nasty road and larger numbers of visitors than I expected, the lake is worth making the effort.

Bowman Lake is absolutely beautiful and set in a perfect, bucolic and mountainous setting. The lake is 8 miles long and under a mile wide and stretches far back into the Livingston Mountain range. The mountains appear to rise directly from the Lake’s shores. The Lake is quite deep with a maximum depth of 253 feet. At an area of over 1,700 acres, Bowman Lake is Glacier’s 3^rd largest lake behind Lake McDonald and St. Mary Lake.

After a nice picnic lunch, we walked down to the lake shore. The water was so calm it looked like a sheet of glass. There was one kayaker out on the lake and a few people walking along the shore, but at the most we only saw about 15 people down by the lake itself. Then it was back in the truck for our way back to camp.

In order to get to Bowman Lake, you have to pass through Polebridge which is 27-miles from West Glacier along a primarily dirt road. Polebridge is not a town or even a village. The tiny community of Polebridge consists of a handful of houses, cabins, a hostel, small ranches along the North Fork Road, the Northern Lights Saloon (also a café), and the Polebridge Mercantile & Bakery.

The mercantile offers fresh baked goods, locally produced products such as huckleberry jam, jelly, and toppings, and sandwiches. Rick and Katie also traveled up as far as Polebridge and told us the hamburgers at the saloon were mighty tasty. They had already visited Bowman Lake on a previous visit to the park. After hearing me say I would never take that drive again, they decided perhaps they had enjoyed enough adventure for one day. And also headed for the barn. So, to speak.

After getting gas and yet another visit to the local grocery store, it was back to camp to read and start prepping for dinner.

After dinner it was a short read for me, a longer read for Andy, and a long sleep for both of us. Ah, vacation, ain’t it grand!

Monday, September 19, 2022 – Moose Creek RV Park  

Yesterday I had been together enough to purchase a huckleberry bear claw when we had visited the Polebridge Mercantile & Bakery. Actually, I was so glad to still be alive after our Bowman Lake ordeal, that I bought the bear claw in a celebratory mood. So, breakfast was especially good this morning. Of course, we don’t usually eat breakfast very early, much more of a brunch if truth be told. So, we are usually pretty hungry by the time I set our bacon and eggs on the table.

While breaking our fast, we decided to go into the beautiful town of Whitefish, Montana to see if we could find the bicycle/ski shop owned by our dear friends Jim and Margo’s nephew Willie and his wife Stella. Jim’s been telling us how great this shop is for years now. So, we decided to see for ourselves what all the fuss is about. But first a little bit about the town itself.

Whitefish is a resort town surrounded by mountain peaks, lakes, and glacier-carved steep valleys. Though it is primarily known as a skiing destination, it is a recreational hub for water activities, golfing, hiking, mountain biking, and snowboarding.   Downtown Whitefish is home to art and music festivals, concerts, and nighttime events. The streets are lined with art galleries, shops, and eateries. Frankly, it struck both of us with the same thought. The town looked just like we would imagine a perfect new age hippy haven would resemble. (Hipsters.)  With a few older hippies thrown in for good measure. It was actually a very lovely and welcoming place to visit. Now, back to the bicycle shop.

We were lucky enough to find both Willie and Stella in their shop. And boy oh boy, Jim was not exaggerating when he told us this shop was primo. Right downtown in the heart of all the activity, this shop is a biker and skiers dream come true. Quality merchandise and staff that are not only willing to help but take pride in providing expert assistance no matter your level of expertise. After having a brief but very nice chat with both Willie and Stella, we visited a few more shops and looked for a place to eat. Well, all the eating establishments downtown had lines outside. So, we decided to get out of town and take a ride up to Big Mountain Ski Resort.

On our way out of town I spotted a funky looking place called the Wich Haus. Very unpretentious couple of buildings but patrons filling almost all of the outdoor tables.

So, we parked and went inside to check out the menu.

The place was called the Wich Haus for very good reason. They serve sandwiches. And not just any sandwiches. These are gourmet to the max sandwiches. Along with the sandwiches they serve house (haus)-made potato chips. OMG. The chips were so good. Thick and ultra-crunchy and not too salty. And the sandwiches? Outrageous!

I had the Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich – Buttermilk fried chicken thigh with kohlrabi and cucumber marinated in nuoc cham fish sauce, pickled Fresno chile, mint, basil, and lemongrass mayonnaise on a haus potato bun. $14

Andy had a draft beer and a Smoked Chicken Sandwich – Smoked and sliced chicken breast with haus bacon, smoked gouda, onion jam, spring greens, and garlic mayonnaise on a haus wheat bun. $14.25

After we ate as much as our tummies would allow, we waddled back to the truck and headed up to the ski resort. We looked around a bit to see if we could find the condo we had rented for our honeymoon 30 years ago next February. After a few false tries, we decided to give up and start back to camp.

On the way back, the skies opened up and we went through a torrential downpour a few miles west of Columbia Falls. But back at camp, the sun was shining. We decided to dump both the black and grey water today rather than wait until just before leaving in the morning. Tomorrow was already going to be a long driving day, so one less task in the morning was to our advantage. Just as we were finishing up this odious task, it started to rain here too. Of course, the rain didn’t last long and for the rest of the afternoon, the rain clouds and sun played hide and seek with each other. While the weather couldn’t decide what to do, we mere mortals kept to the inside of the trailer writing (me) or moving the camp chair to take advantage of either the sunshine or to seek shelter beneath the trailer awning (Andy). At least Andy got a bit of exercise while the weather God had his/her fun at our expense.

After a nice dinner of soup and bread provided by Katie and Rick, it was a bit of reading and listening to an audio book, then lights out with dreams of more adventures to come. At our ages, we can only take so much fun in any given day.

Tuesday, September 20, 2022 – The Inn at Priest Lake, Coolin, Idaho – site 5

Today was a very long drive day. Somewhere around 275 miles. But the whole way from West Glacier, Montana to Coolin, Idaho was jam packed with absolutely beautiful scenery. Mountains, lakes, rivers, meadows, valleys, forests, almost more than the senses could handle. Even so, somehow, we managed. And for all the hours that our butts were forced to conform to the truck seats, not once did I want the drive to be over. The landscape was just that amazing.

We began today’s adventure by leaving camp a few minutes after 10:00 am. We stopped in Libby, Montana for gas and lunch and then continued on SR 2 until just before Troy, Montana where we turned and headed south on State Route 56. This took us up the valley of the Bull River past Bull Lake. We intersected highway 200 and turned west and went down the Clark Fork River past Lake Pend Oreille to Sandpoint, Idaho where we continued west to the small town of Priest River where we turned north on 57 towards Priest Lake.

Our final destination for the day was a small inn with an even smaller attached (12 sites) RV park. A nicely wooded park with only 2 trailers in the whole place. Our trailer and Rick and Katie’s trailer. Talk about having the place to ourselves! Fine by me. But the name of the inn and the RV park was a bit deceptive because we can’t see any part of the lake from the inn or campground. It’s close, or at least it appears close on our Atlas. But not close enough to see it through dense woods.

For dinner we travelled about halfway up the east side of the lake to eat at the restaurant attached to Elkin’s Resort. A charming dining establishment right on the shore of Priest Lake. Had a delicious dinner, then came home to enjoy dessert in the cozy comfort of our trailer.

Another grand day exploring the majestic wilderness areas of northern Montana and Idaho.

  

Wednesday, September 21, 2022 – Inn at Priest Lake

Sunny skies are almost always welcome when we are on vacation. Except of course, when the temperatures are in the high 90s or above. Then, not so much. But like today, when the temperatures are in the 70s, the sky is a lovely sky blue, clouds are high, infrequent, and decidedly puffy, and capri pants and sandals are part of the days’ ensemble, then life is good.

For me today was a quiet day of early prepping for dinner, reading, a nice afternoon spent with Katie, and a late afternoon nap.

Andy and Rick had left a bit after 10:00 am for a hike. Katie and I decided that a nice afternoon spent knitting (for Katie) and reading (for me) was much more appealing. So, off the guys went to climb up to a lookout. I will let Andy tell you all about their adventure. Take it Andy………

Mount Roothaan

We were camped at Priest Lake for two nights during our return from a two-week trailer trip to Glacier National Park with Rick & Katie.  Our layover day offered perfect hiking weather, sunny but highs only in the 70s.  Rick was game for a moderate hike, his first mountain trail since getting a new knee a few years ago.

Having pulled sketchy driving directions off the Internet, we departed camp in the old but trusty Tundra at 10:30 am.  4 miles up the east shore from our camp in Coolin, we turned onto Hunt Creek Road No. 24, from which point it is 12 miles of dirt road to the trailhead.

Unfortunately, none of the road junctions are signed, and I overshot the turnoff (at the 4- mile mark) for Horton Ridge Road No. 25.  We got well up the Hunt Creek drainage before realizing our error; and while retracing our route were fortunate to meet a couple heading for the Hunt Lake trailhead who helped direct us back to the correct turnoff.  From there the Horton Ridge Road is easy to follow and well maintained due to ongoing logging activity – until the final mile, where it abruptly degrades into a nasty 4WD jeep road, deeply rutted and rocky.  We arrived at the 6,000-foot road end and trailhead (a former lookout site) shortly after noon, fairly well shook up.

The trail’s first mile is a fairly gentle ascent through alpine timber, following the ridge top.  No serious blowdowns, just a few stepovers.  As elevation is gained the wooded terrain gives way to interspersed meadows; giant granite boulders thrust through the thin soil giving the ridge line a jagged appearance.  Being unaccustomed to physical exertion at this altitude, we paused frequently to re-oxygenate.  Hunt Lake came into view across the creek valley, a pretty little mountain lake tucked into the shoulder of Gunsight Peak. 

We could see the summit of Mount Roothaan directly above us; and could guess at the location of our destination, a saddle on the west ridge.  But the trail now changed character, tilting upwards to gain elevation in a hurry with nary a switchback over open slopes.  While we expected (from descriptions of the hike) for this final leg to be less than ½ mile, we were nonetheless mentally challenged to push ourselves up the relentless and rocky path.  Just as we were about to throw in the towel, the saddle finally came into view.  We topped out at 7,000 feet just after 2 pm. 

Tossing off packs and grabbing cameras/binoculars, we feasted on the dramatic view of Chimney Rock, a mere ¼ mile to the north.  Peaks of the Selkirk Crest continued in a line many miles to the north, while all of Priest Lake lay below us to the west.  We could see the smoke from wildfires rising from the forest lands abutting the Washington and British Columbia borders.

Following a hasty lunch, and descending with care, we returned to the truck at 3:30 pm, and were back in camp by 4:45 pm well pleased with our adventures.

Now, back to me…………

After the guys returned from their hike, Andy and I gassed up the truck, bought a dozen eggs, and returned to camp to host Katie and Rick for dinner. Brined and BBQd pork chops, romaine with balsamic dressing, roasted beets, and sweet and salty pecans, and mashed sweet potatoes.

Then a bit of a read and an early to bed. Rain was predicted for the next day, and sure enough, the weather people were spot on!

Thursday, September 22, 2022 – Curlew State Park, Republic, Washington – Upper Loop site 24

When we first woke up, there were just low clouds in the sky. But of course, as luck would have it, by 9:30 am when we were starting to unhook electricity etc. for departure, the heavens started spitting on us a bit. By the time we actually were hooking the trailer up to the truck, it was a drizzle. And as we were pulling out of camp, it was raining.

I love all the words we have for precipitation. And really, as a Pacific Northwesterner, we know all there is to know about the various stages of water falling from the sky. Because, we have it all. OK, maybe we don’t have monsoons. But we can pretty much count on every other type of atmospheric moisture hitting us with predictable regularity. Today was another driving day. Not a long day in the truck, but full of interesting roads that we have only travelled infrequently.

After leaving our camp at Priest Lake, we drove south to the small town of Priest River and turned west on SR 2 until we reached Newport, Washington where the same highway becomes SR 20.

This is a very scenic route as it follows the Pend Oreilles River. So, lovely glimpses of high hills, farms, and the river mile after mile. 

After going through Colville and Kettle Falls, we turned south (still on SR 20) and up and over Sherman Pass in the Kettle Range. Sherman Pass is the highest highway pass (5535 feet) in Washington. So, it’s up, up, up through beautiful forest lands, then down, down, down until we turned north onto SR 21 and our next destination – Curlew Lake State Park.

It always amazes me that the Northeastern part of Washington is so beautiful. Lots of hills, mountains, forests, lakes, rivers, and farm and ranch land. So much more appealing than most of the middle and southern parts of eastern Washington. Because at least for me, there is only so much sage brush I can look at before my eyes start to glaze over and I just want to turn around and head back to the coast. But up in the Northeastern corner of the state, not many miles from the Canadian border, there is beauty everywhere you look.

After we reached camp and unhooked, we fell prey to an acute case of lassitude. So, until Rick and Katie called us to dinner at about 6:45 pm, we sat in our camp chairs and read our books. At least I think I was reading all that time. I might have drifted off a couple of times. The time did seem to go by very quickly. Oh well, who’s to know? Or care!

After dinner it was plot our next day’s activities, do a little writing, read a couple more chapters in our books, and an early to bed.

Speaking of books, I am currently reading A Pilgrimage to Eternity by Timothy Eagan. What a delightful and insightful look and query into the author’s relationship to religion or spiritualism or simply what it means to be a human being. I haven’t finished the book, but I already feel like I am making the same pilgrimage of discovery that Mr. Egan wrote about.

Having been raised in a Christian home, I first embraced Christianity, then for years simply neglected the church, and lately have come to despise what some people who profess to be Christians can and will do in the name of their religion. If there is any Jesus in racism, hating people of different religions or orientations, or feeling superior to those who have differing opinions or are less fortunate, then I must have slept through those bible stories. Because the Jesus I learned about was a friend to everyone. Jesus practiced love, not hate. So, reading this book is helping me get back on track spiritually. I don’t have to buy into all the tenets of Christianity. But I can sure use all the reminders I can get to always be kind, love unconditionally, offer and accept forgiveness, not be judgmental, and be the best person I can be every day of my life.

Friday, September 23, 2022 – Curlew Lake State Park   

Well, today was certainly an interesting day. For about 10 days now, I have been fighting a sore on my back, from God knows what source. Andy has been faithfully changing Band-Aids slathered with antibiotic cream twice a day and the sore seemed to be getting better. But this morning, the sore seemed to be getting worse. We really didn’t know what to do at this point. We thought about breaking camp and going home a couple days early, but it would have been a very long run from Curlew to Camano Island. So, I went on my phone and searched google for urgent care facilities near Republic. As it turns out, there is a fine regional hospital just 6 miles from our campsite.

I tried making an appointment at the regional urgent care clinic, but after an hour of waiting for a call back, we headed to the hospital.

The nice young man who was the “check-in” emergency room person tried to call the clinic for me. He too got no answer. So, he had an emergency room nurse come out and get me so that I could be seen as an “emergency” patient. About 75 minutes later I had been seen by a doctor, had a culture taken, bandaged, and had picked up a prescription for an antibiotic from a pharmacy in downtown Republic. All very professionally handled, and very little time spent in the process. And both of us very much relieved that someone with medical knowledge had examined me and I was probably (hopefully) on the mend. With a newfound sense of freedom, and the feeling that I was probably going to live to see another day, we drove back to camp, had a bit of lunch so that I could take my first dose of the prescribed medicine, and plan the rest of our day.

For some years now we had been hearing about our dear friends Mark and Vicki’s lodge they had built in northeastern Washington. As it turns out, the lodge, no longer owned by our friends unfortunately, was within a little over an hour’s drive from our campsite.  So, armed with driving instructions from Mark, off we went to see their former digs.

We found the lodge and we could immediately see why they had built a 2nd home in this incredibly scenic area. And how could it be that this part of the state was virtually unknown to us? Why do we know the rest of the state intimately but have spent very little time in the upper northeastern part. All I’ve got to say is that’s it’s a dirty rotten shame! And one we plan to rectify on subsequent trailer adventures. Because majestic doesn’t even begin to describe the surrounding hills, valleys, lakes, ranches, etc. 

The only disconcerting moments traveling around the area came in the form of political signs such as MAGA, Trump won, Biden sucks, and Culp for Governor in front of or plastered onto barns, houses, dilapidated single-wide trailers, derelict fences, or vehicles which have obviously not had a working engine since Clinton was president. And the worst part is that Trump and his scary band of shysters truthfully could not give a flying fig for any of these folks! All I could do was shake my head and pray that politicians with greater minds and hearts would eventually prevail. Regardless of the political sentiments that just made us shake our heads in disbelief, we can hardly wait to plan another trip to this area so we can explore this amazing area of our state.

Then it was back to camp at about 4:00 pm so that I could make Pea Salad and prep for the polenta I planned to serve with the grilled flank steak.

This was our last night camping with Rick and Katie. And as with every other trip together, we had a great time in their company. Friends, relatives, and foodies. A perfect combination for success.

Saturday, September 24, 2022 – Howard Miller Steelhead Park, Rockport, WA – site 38

Both of us woke up early (6:45 am) (that’s early for us retired folk). Andy showered while I lazed in bed until he was finished with his ablutions. Then I got up, dressed, put on my face, and started breakfast.

In our little trailer, only one person can comfortably get dressed and ready to face yet another wonderful travel day, without stepping on, over, or through the other person. Not that I’m complaining about the close quarters. I love our little trailer. And I truly feel that any trailer longer than this one (24 feet, seven inches) would be too unwieldy for me to feel safe towing. So, yes call me a wuss if you must. But I know my limitations. At 78, my reflexes and coordination are still OK, but not what they used to be. So, I feel safe driving our truck and towing the trailer. But anything longer, I don’t think I’d feel as confident.

After hooking up and saying adios to Rick, Katie, Juno, and Beau (Juno and Beau being Katie and Ricks feline family members and sometime traveling companions) we left Curlew SP at 9:30 am. We wanted to get an early start because it would be a lengthy and stressful driving day. Stressful only in the form of uphill, downhill, sharp corners, speed up, slow down, move off the road to let others pass, watch out for vehicles with maniacs behind the wheel kind of day. But scenic? Absolutely, and well worth any frustration associated with pulling 6,000 pounds of dead weight that totally obscures any vision you might usually depend upon from your rear-view mirror. Sounds like fun, right? Actually, it is.

So, todays route basically was all about SR 20. All we had to do was follow the signs. SR 20 led us through Republic, to Tonasket, south through Omak and Okanogan, up and over Loup Loup pass, then west through Twisp and Winthrop, up and over Washington and Rainy Passes on the North Cascades Highway, to our final destination Rockport, Washington.

This is the first state park I can remember that had so little signage that I wasn’t sure we were even in the right place. But Mr. C and his uncanny sense of direction got us to our campsite right on the mighty Skagit River. With no wrong turns I might add.  

It is peaceful and quiet here, except for a yappy dog next door and the fire siren that went off twice just after we arrived. I haven’t heard an actual fire siren for probably 50 years. I was kind of worried that there might be a forest fire in the vicinity. But Mr. C., ever the pragmatist/romantic, thought it might mean that the Huskies scored a touchdown. We will never know.

After it got too cool to stay outside and read, we came inside the trailer for our final cocktail of the trip. Cheers to yet another wonderful adventure and to many more to come.

Sunday, September 25, 2022 – Camano Island, WA – site 1082 Lightning Way

After getting up at a reasonable time, we broke camp and started driving towards home. Basically, took SR 20 the whole way home. The only smoke we encountered was near Darrington. The Suiattle Creek Fire was reported on August 30, 2022, at 2:45 pm northeast and upslope of the Suiattle River Road (Forest Road 26). The suspected cause of the fire was lightning. The fire is located approximately 10 miles northeast of Darrington. As of this date, the fire is still burning.

We made it home safe and sound, with lots of wonderful memories of our time seeing natural wonders and visiting with family and friends.

For me, our last day on the road is always a day of regret and expectation. Regret that we won’t be seeing any new and wonderful sights every day, but the joyous expectation of being cozy at home with our two kitties, spending time with our close friends, and attending all the live music events possible. So, when on the road I miss being home. When I’m home I look forward to our next time on the road. As I’ve said before, I am well and truly a lucky lady. And an intrepid traveler. (Except for scary roads!)

Wednesday, September 22, 2021 – Wenatchee Confluence State Park (SP) – site 37

Well, you know what they say, if life throws you lemons, go visit Les Schwab. OK, the world doesn’t say that, but when you discover a flat tire on your trailer 2 days before you plan to leave town, visiting Les is the best option available.
All the fun began on Monday the 20th as we were taking the cover off the trailer. There it was in all its glory – the left rear tire nearly flat. Luckily, the trailer has 2 tires per side, so the one still perfectly inflated was holding up the trailer nicely. And the other tire (bad tire) was not flat as a pancake, just not fully inflated. So, Mr. C. pumped it up with his trusty traveling air-compressor (we never leave home without it) and remarkably, the tire held most of its air over night. Or at least enough for Andy to drive to Mount Vernon where he knew the Les Schwab facility could accommodate a truck and trailer. And within an hour the tire was fixed and back on the trailer – no charge. I love Les Schwab! Talk about good customer service! Anyway, Andy was back home late morning on Tuesday so that we had plenty of time to pack the trailer for an early departure on Wednesday morning.
Now for some, an early departure would be 6:00 or 7:00 am. For us, we are lucky to get hitched up and off Camano by 11:00 am. But we exceeded this time and left the storage facility at 10:30 am. So, on our way towards one of our favorite first night on the road destinations – Wenatchee Confluence SP. Plus our dear friend Linda lives in nearby Leavenworth, so coming to our camp site in Wenatchee for a visit is easily accomplished. We sat around and talked for a while, then off to a Mexican restaurant for dinner. Then back to camp, and for me an early to bed.
I am still recovering from Mohs surgery (look it up) to remove a cancer on my left leg. And although I had already experienced the same type of procedure on my forehead and left arm, I was completely unprepared for how much pain I would experience on my left shin. Yikes! So, with a Tylenol PM coursing through my veins, it was off to beddy-bye at 8:30.

Thursday, September 23, 2021 – Chief Timothy State Park (near Clarkston, WA) – site 18
Woke to a beautiful morning. And another day of adventure.
After a nice breakfast it was time to hit the road. Our travels took us over some old roads and some new roads. One segment which turned out to be very scenic was highway 260 from Othello thru Palouse Falls. Up and down, twists and turns thru wheat fields, orchards, and even a vineyard or two. A little slow, but no problem for our truck and trailer. And a segment of road that was new to us. Always fun to drive a road for the first time.
Arrived about 4:15 pm and spent a couple of hours reading outside under perfect conditions. Short sleeve shirt weather, shade from big trees, with just a bit of a breeze. Then in for supper and reading and writing till bedtime. Could not have been a nicer day.

Friday, September 24, 2021 – Creekside RV Park & Campground, New Meadows, Idaho – site 27
After a leisurely breakfast, we headed out towards our next destination. About an hour into our drive the “tire pressure” light on the truck’s dashboard started blinking at us. (The tire Gods must really be mad at us because we rarely have tire problems, and now the second tire situation has reared its ugly head.) Luckily there was a service center in the next town, so we stopped in their parking lot to see which tire was unhappy. Turns out it was the right front tire. The pressure was down by 4 pounds. So, Andy gave it some air and we started down the trail again.
We stopped after a few miles, and checked the pressure, which was just fine. Meanwhile the dashboard warning signal was still flashing away. So, either we have a real problem that is masked as “just fine” or the gauge on our 2005 Toyota Tundra is being visited by a gremlin. We will see what tomorrow brings. Luckily, we were close to McCall, Idaho, so, if necessary, AAA could jolly well bring their little truck to us and fix the problem. Or if need be, we could go visit Les again and turn the entire problem over to them!
Other than that, our site is nice, and after a safe arrival drink all was just swell with the world. On to more adventures tomorrow.

Saturday, September 25, 2021 – Creekside RV Park & Campground
So, the tire pressure was still just fine when Andy checked after breakfast, but the flashing alert light was still happily out of control. So, we decided to go into McCall and visit the Les Schwab center.
I am beginning to wonder if we shouldn’t buy stock in LS, because we are spending more and more time with them, and they are always slammed. But nice, and helpful, and ready to deal with numerous bizarre problems and not even bat an eyelash. So, after 90 minutes, we had two new tire pressure sensors and the blinking signal (give the word “blinking” any meaning you wish) on our dashboard finally decided all was well and retired back into darkness. And the tire was just fine!
Now if you have never been to McCall, Idaho, you should definitely plan a visit. McCall is a beautiful little tourist town on Payette Lake. We had stayed at Ponderosa State Park last time we were here, but this time when I tried to book a site, they were totally full. And with good reason. It’s a lovely campground. But I kind of like where we ended up. It’s quiet and perfect for relaxing and having some quality time with a book.
When we got back from picnicking at Ponderosa SP and doing a bit of grocery provisioning and gas tank filling, it was back to camp around 4:00 pm. Since we were just over the line into mountain time and there was plenty of time before sunset, Andy decided to hit a little round ball for 9 holes at a local golf course. Since there was no one in the office, he was able to play free of charge. Some fun and only 2 balls left for the locals to retrieve.
Then a lovely dinner of curry and salad, reading and writing, and a nice silent night of undisturbed slumber. Tomorrow on the road to Glenns Ferry, Idaho.

Sunday, September 26, 2021 – Three Islands Crossing SP, Glenns Ferry, Idaho – site 71
After a prolonged morning of breakfast and general laziness, we left camp about 12:00 noon. OK, really it was only 11:00 PST, so not as bad as it sounds. We choose a new route from New Meadows to Payette, highway 95, which I would recommend to anyone. Nice scenery, and not too many cars.
Arrived at our site, made dinner, and generally did nothing of value. In other words, a lovely evening after a perfect day.

Monday, September 27, 2021 – Angel Lake RV Park, Wells, NV – site 24
After showing our trailer to some nice folks from the Boise area who want one just like it, we finally got on the road. We decided to follow the scenic routes as much as possible. So, we started out on 84 south until we branched off in Bliss (does not live up to its name) onto US 30. Then on to 93 south between Filer and Twin Falls and into Nevada through the casino richly endowed city of Jackpot. (It also does not live up to its name!)
Highway 93 turned out to be a nice road complete with a long and time-consuming section of road work. But what really caused the lengthy delay, was a horrible accident that happened at the south end of the project. 2 cars were already on tow vehicles, completely mangled. Apparently, a truck and trailer combination hit one of the road maintenance/work trucks and was lying on its side looking like it would take a crane to move it. Police cars everywhere as well as long lines of very unhappy drivers. We didn’t see any ambulances, but given the condition of the two demolished cars, we were certain that some hospitalization must have been warranted.
But eventually we arrived at camp at 3:15 pm. Our very nice hostess advised us that after we dropped anchor, we should take a short drive up to Angel Lake. She said the trees were absolutely beautiful this year. We had previously taken this same drive, but during June. Well, we were sure glad we had taken her advice. As you can see from the pictures that follow, we were truly blessed with a riot of color.
There is a special place in my heart for aspen trees. And they were at their autumnal finest this year. Beautiful shades of gold and orange. And enough breeze that the trees actually seemed to be quaking! But then, so was I. Only because it was so exciting to witness this amazing part of the world in all its fall splendor.

Then back to camp to read, a nice walk for Andy on the grounds of the golf course across from our camping site, and a quiet time for me to log my thoughts from the last couple of days. Just so you know – it’s hot here. All the windows and door are wide open and the magic fan (or whatever it’s called) is busily drawing warm air out of the trailer.
As I’m sure you have figured out by now, this travel journal has very little to do with recipes. It is merely a travel log for Andy and me to enjoy in our declining years and to use as a reminder of where to stay next time, or where not to stay, as the case may be! And for our friends who love to tow their trailers or drive their motorhomes all over the western part of our lovely nation. So, there aren’t going to be any wonderful recipes or any new food revelations involved. Just a journal and lots of pictures as a way for those of us who travel together to stay connected. And for our friends to learn about new and exciting places they might also wish to visit. But please come along for the ride. We love sharing our adventures with all of you. (And yes, I will get back to posting recipes very soon. And thanks for being patient.)

Tuesday, September 28, 2021 – Ely KOA, Ely, NV – site 59
Woke early to very windy conditions. The trailer was a rockin’ and a rollin’, so neither of us could sleep past 6:30 am. So, after showers and breakfast, we were on our way before 9:45 am. (Practically unheard of for us!) (And this was the day with the least amount of miles to travel towards our next camp. Of course, it was!)
But after miles and miles of sagebrush and seeing mountain range after mountain range, we decided to do a little research about this area of the world after we arrived at camp.
According to Wikipedia “The Great Basin is the largest area of contiguous endorheic watersheds – those with no outlets – in North America. It spans nearly all of Nevada, much of Oregon and Utah, and portions of California, Idaho, Wyoming, and Baja California, Mexico. It is noted for both its arid climate and the basin and range topography that varies from the North American low point at Badwater Basin in Death Valley to the highest point of the contiguous United States, less than 100 miles away at the summit of Mount Whitney, elevation 14,505 feet above sea level. The region spans several physiographic divisions, biomes, ecoregions, and deserts.”
The term “basin” is a bit misleading. “Basin” conjures up images of big sink holes or hollows, when in reality, even the valley floors are over 5,000 feet above sea level. The numerous mountain ranges trend north to south, with many peaks over 10,000 feet. So, driving through this part of the world is truly a visit to a geological wonderland.

We made a visit to Cave Lake. But we could not get close enough to take a picture. So, you will have to wait until we return to this part of the country to learn more about this interesting area.

After visiting the Cave Lake area, it was a bit of provisioning in Ely. Then back to the trailer for reading and writing. Then a nice dinner of marinated flank steak, baby potatoes in butter and seasonings, and steamed broccoli with “secret sauce”. (OK, one recipe – secret sauce. Half mayonnaise, half soy sauce.)

Because it was reported that the temperature was to be below freezing that night, Andy unfastened the water hose and brought the koolatron (where we keep most of our veggies and fruit) inside the trailer. We also left the heat on and kept the water heater happily heating water all night long. And yes, it was cold outside. Inside the trailer however, it was nice and cozy.
Tomorrow a day of peregrination up and through the Great Basin National Park. (Our first visit.)

Wednesday, September 29, 2021 – Ely KOA
After a big breakfast, I packed us a lunch and away we headed for today’s adventure. Our campsite was about 60 miles from the Great Basin National Park, so we decided an early start would be advantageous.

Our first drive took us up to Wheeler Peak. Taking a drive along the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive is a highlight of any visit to Great Basin National Park. A true mountain road, the scenic drive hugs the mountains of the South Snake Range, slowly winding to a point above all others, where vistas reach the horizon, and one is met with a pristine view of the rugged & harsh, yet beautiful, Great Basin Desert.
Starting the drive by the Lehman Caves Visitor Center, we were already at an elevation of 7,000 feet above sea level. Here you are driving through a typical Great Basin eco-region that is dominated by the low-lying sagebrush.
As we left the sagebrush, we began to notice drastic changes as the low shrubs were replaced by taller and taller pine trees. By 8,000 feet, we were passing through a prime example of a pristine Pinyon/Juniper woodland ecological zone. Looking closely, we saw subtle differences between these two common trees. Pinyon pines have sharp, round needles emerging singly from the tree stem, while juniper needles are very short and lay close together, giving the appearance of scales. Ascending out of the pinyon/juniper ecological zone at around 8,500 feet, we began to encounter scrappy, rough looking trees, known as the Curleaf Mountain Mahogany. Looking closely at their leaves, we discovered small, waxy leaves that curl down at the edges, just as the name suggests. By 9,000 feet, we had left the mountain mahogany behind, and entered a forest of mixed conifers – white fir, Douglas fir, and ponderosa pine. By the 11th mile, we had reached an altitude of 10,00 feet above sea level. Ecologically, we had entered a region more characteristic of a Rocky Mountain alpine forest than that of the Nevada desert. This sub-alpine forest was dominated by the white-barked aspen tree. Interesting fact: each aspen grove is a single, living organism. Aspens reproduce through cloning by sending runners out underground that become new trees. Because of this, it is common that entire hillsides of aspens are all a single, genetically identical tree. And at this time of year, the aspen trees were in full glorious color. We were enchanted.
By the time we reached the Summit Trailhead, we had completed our journey from the harsh sagebrush flats to the surprisingly lush and diverse sub-alpine forests of the Snake Range. In just 12 miles, we had traveled through the same eco-regions that you would have encountered as if you drove from Baker, Nevada to the frozen Yukon, thousands of miles north.
On our way down we stopped at the Lehman Caves visitor center for a look at what we had missed by not 1) knowing about the caves, and 2) not making a reservation for a guided tour. Next time we visit this part of the world we will be better prepared! Then after a quick picnic lunch, we were on to the second part of our visit to this great National Park – Snake Creek Canyon.
Snake Creek Road runs approximately 13 miles deep into the backcountry of Great Basin National Park. The road is unpaved and passes multiple primitive group and single vehicle campsites along the winding road. The vegetation changes as you gain in elevation from the sage brush, Juniper, and Pinyon Pine of Granite Basin to Aspens and Elderberry trees at the top of the road.
After arriving back at the main road, truck and riders unscathed, we headed back to Ely to gas up for the next day’s adventure and to have dinner and an early to bed. A wonderful day spent under a perfectly beautiful blue sky. We could not have asked for better weather.

Thursday, September 30, 2021 – Sand Creek RV Park, Torrey, UT – site 14
If it were possible to make myself a little less specific sometimes, this morning would have been a prime example.
When I originally booked us into this park, I was told that they were full up. But they did have a couple of “dry sites” (electricity but no water or septic) if I would like one of them. Anna assured us the site would be great regardless. So, this morning before we dumped and added gallons of water to our fresh-water tank, I decided to call and see if they had any cancelations and to ask if there was possibly a full hookup site available. Or even just a site with water. (Who cares about electricity since our trailer has a solar panel which keeps us well supplied with electrical energy.) I had left the message too early for anyone to be in the office. (This is a very small RV park – only 15 RV sites.) But these lovely people called us back twice.
Once to assure us we could fill our fresh-water tank upon arrival at the campground and not have to carry gallons of water up and over several mountain ranges. Then a little while later, Anna called and said she had a full hookup site for us and she would give us a discount besides. Andy told her we would not require a discount, but when we arrived it seems it was a fate accompli. (Who could ask for better service!)
It had been a long day on the road, but we were not bothered by too much traffic, because most of the way from Ely, Nevada to Torrey, Utah was on US Highway 50, the loneliest road in America. The Nevada portion of 50 crosses the center of the state and was named “The Loneliest Road in America” by Life magazine in July 1986.
Blue Highways author William Least Heat-Moon writes about US-50, “for the unhurried, this little-known highway is the best national road across the middle of the United States.” The route offers such a compelling cross-section of the nation that Time magazine once devoted an entire issue to telling the story of the road it called the “Backbone of America.”
And yes, the road surface was great, and no car or truck was crawling up the back of our trailer so that they could arrive at the next town (and I use the term “town” loosely) earlier by 1 minute!
Now what you should know about today’s travels was that there was some new geological wonder to look at the whole darn day! Sure, there was sagebrush, but there were such amazing rock formations that the abundance of sagebrush could easily be forgiven. And up the sides of mountains, aspen trees in full color. If I live to be 100, and please God I don’t want to get that old, I could never get tired of looking at fall color. And aspen trees do fall color better than just about any other tree. (OK, vine maple does a pretty good job too!)
Well, that’s about all for today. We are in camp, it’s not raining, tomorrow we are going to be exploring Capitol Reef National Park which surrounds a long wrinkle in the earth known as the Waterpocket Fold, with layers of golden sandstone, canyons and striking rock formations. Among the park’s sights are the Chimney Rock pillar, the Hickman Bridge arch, and Capitol Reef, known for its white sandstone domes. In the north are the towering monoliths of Cathedral Valley.

Even though we’ve camped here before, it’s such a magnificent park, I can hardly wait to explore it again.
And tonight, for dinner, chili dogs. Homemade chili, lightly browned all-beef Hebrew National franks, on Dave’s killer bread toast, then decorated with grated sharp cheddar cheese and diced white onion. And for a side, the only possible choice – Fritos! (Could the side be anything else? I think not!)
Then a bit of reading and early lights out for me. And sweet dreams about rocks of all shapes and sizes.

• 

Friday, October 1, 2021 – Sand Creek RV Park
Now I know I should start by providing a bit of history about Capitol Reef National Park. So, that’s just exactly what I’m going to do.
Capitol Reef National Park was designated a national monument on August 2, 1937, by President Franklin D. Roosevelt to protect the area’s colorful canyons, ridges, buttes, and monoliths. However, all 241,904 acres were not officially open to the public until 1950. It became a national park on December 18, 1971.
But the area of Capitol Reef has been a homeland to people for thousands of years. Archaic hunters and gatherers migrated through the canyons. The Fremont Culture solidified around 500 CE (Common Era) (the secular equivalent of AD) from food foraging groups to farmers of corn, beans, and squash. Petroglyphs etched in rock walls and painted pictographs remain as sacred remnants of the ancient saga.
And that’s all well and good, but what I like the most are the rock formations. And I took lots of pictures so I could revisit this area any time I felt like petting a rock. (Which happens quite often in case you were interested!)
Anyway, with a picnic lunch in the back of the truck, binoculars safely on the back seat, and cameras at the ready, off we went. From this point on, most of the dialog will be under pictures, because as they say, pictures are worth a thousand words. And I wish I knew the names of all the amazing rock formations. But I don’t.

Saturday, October 2, 2021 – River’s Edge Campground – Heber City, UT – site 3
I’ve decided to call today the long and winding road (to visit son Sven, daughter-in-law Jill, and various and sundry grand-kidlets in SLC.)
The first part of our journey from Torrey was to Loa, heading NNE on state route 72. High sagebrush country with Aspen tree groves interspersed along the upper ridges. Very little traffic. From a high pass of 8500-feet we gazed eastward over canyon lands country. The road wound through upland valleys where small groups of cattle grazed beside shrinking ponds. The route ended by descended gradually to cross with I-70.
Now most major crossings, or even crossings with semi-major highways have some kind of service available. This meeting of highways was completely lacking in service. Thank heaven we didn’t need gas. So, onward hardy travelers. Next, the second leg of today’s journey – state route 10, from interstate 70 to Price, Utah.
Long, easy driving along the east edge of the Wasatch plateau passing through small towns like Ferron, Castle Dale, and Huntington where we paused at a delightful state park on a reservoir to change drivers. After preceding west a few miles on US 6 we branched off onto leg three of today’s travels – US 191 and 55 miles to Duchesne.
This wild route climbed 4,000-feet in 20 miles to a 9,100-foot pass where we paused to eat at the summit under a mixed rain and hailstorm.

Quickly descending from the pass, the road then wound through 20 serpentine miles of Indian Canyon, one of the longest canyons we had ever experienced.
In Duchesne we turned west onto US 40, leg number 4 of today’s adventure. 70 miles to Heber City along the Strawberry River valley. We passed 2 major reservoirs and flitted thru hills ablaze with fall colors. We arrived in camp around 4:45 pm, ready for a safe-arrival drink, which BTW we enjoyed thoroughly. Then smoked salmon pasta and cucumber salad for dinner. And an early to bed for me after writing up this day’s report and reading a few pages of my book.
Tomorrow – dinner with Sven and gang.

Sunday, October 3, 2021 – River’s Edge Campground
After a lazy morning, we decided a bit of provisioning was warranted. So, into Heber City and to Smith’s grocery store for us. After securing a few necessities including English muffins, bagels, an onion, and a small shallot, we came back to camp to stash our goodies. Then after a small lunch we decided to take a short drive before descending on Sven and Jill at the 3:30 agreed upon arrival time.
The drive we chose actually started very near our camp. Just across US 40 and up a valley to the Wasatch Mountain SP. After driving through the RV camping area, we both decided we would like to stay at this park next time we are in the area. Of course, it didn’t hurt that the trees surrounding every trailer site were in full fall color. But we shouldn’t assume that next time we make a fall visit, the trees will be as amazing as they are this year. Because we have heard from campground hosts through waitresses that this year is definitely special. But I’d come back anyway. Perfect location.
After leaving the camping area of the park, we turned left onto a fairly newly paved road that led up and over Guardsman Pass with turns for Park City and the top of the Cottonwood Canyon road and the Brighton Ski area to Salt Lake City. We didn’t drive all the way to the top, but far enough that the vistas were amazing and the trees absolutely glorious.

Now this is not a road that you would want to haul a trailer up and over. Very narrow, very windy, and with few areas to pull off. And because it was a beautiful fall day and the road had been recently paved, every adventurous hiker and biker from miles around had decided to take a Sunday drive or adventure. The cars, trucks, motorcycles, side-by-sides, etc., were not quite bumper to bumper, but pretty darn close! And because the road was so steep, by the time we got back to the bottom the air was definitely perfumed with the smell of hot brakes.
So, back to camp, a small lunch, change of clothes, and into SLC to visit with Sven and family. (And see their new house!)
Arrived right at 3:30 and the beginning of a wonderful visit. Sven and Jill had just gotten back from 10 days in Spain. Seven of those days on a bicycle tour. So, after a lovely dinner where we were joined by grandkids Lauren and Ethan, it was back to camp for us and an early to bed for the weary overseas travelers. Another beautiful day of vacation.

Monday, October 4, 2021 – River’s Edge Campground
With a few hours on our own before traveling into SLC to visit with Sven and Jill again, we decided a nice short trip up the Mirror Lake highway was warranted. Heading east from Kamas through the national forest, Mirror Lake Highway is one of the most popular mountain routes in the state. The road winds through farm and ranch lands and rises to heavily forested, mountain terrain, accented by meadows and rugged peaks. There are numerous access points into the High Uinta Wilderness along this byway. And of course, the trees were as beautiful here as they were throughout the state.

As we were driving along, we made a very interesting stop at a point of interest. Quite an unassuming small parking area for what turned out to be a very different kind of scenic attraction.
The Duchesne Tunnel is a six-mile-long engineering marvel that is a key to providing water to Utah County. The outflow from the tunnel can be viewed at this stop. Although some overgrown trees obscure a good view of the tunnel opening, a 100-foot-long path leads about 40 feet downward to a fenced viewpoint. (Of course, Andy went to the viewpoint.)
The concrete-lined tunnel is 9.2-feet in diameter and goes right through a core of the Uinta Mountains, taking water from the north fork of the Duchesne River (a tributary of the Colorado River) to deliver it on the other side of the mountain, to the Provo River watershed. What you see in the picture is the beginning of the outflow from the tunnel.

We spent a good half hour exploring around Mirror Lake.

After coming to the end of the road, we descended back to our camp still absolutely thrilled by everything we saw, including a moose munching away by the side of the road halfway back to our camp. For this gal, there could never be too many moose sightings.

After a brief stop at our trailer for a nibble, it was back to SLC for a late afternoon and evening visit with the kids.
After dinner with Sven and Jill at a lovely Indian restaurant, and several hugs good-bye, it was back to Heber City and straight to bed. When we travel I am often in bed by 9:00 pm. So, staying up to 10:30 was a real stretch for me. I have no idea if this vacation in continuous high elevation is playing a part in my unusual attraction for my pillow, but I know my nose and sinus are suffering. So, I’m choosing to blame the high elevation on my need for additional sleep. (And no, science or any factual information plays no part in my diagnosis.)
After a slow morning, and get away from camp, it was on to Bear Lake to meet up with Jim and Margo. Always the best of times with the best of friends.

Tuesday, October 5, 2021 – Bear Lake/Marina Side KOA – Garden City, UT – site 155
Lazy morning with us leaving camp at about 11:30. (Really late departure even for us!)
Now, never being the kind of travelers to take the easiest or fastest route, we decided to travel a couple of new roads toward our destination. We knew that our campground was only about 150 miles away, so that meant we could meander and still arrive in camp at a decent time. So, we chose to take the route that led us through the Logan Canyon. (Which BTW was new to us.)
Logan Canyon is in northeastern Utah. The canyon cuts its way through the Bear River Mountains, a branch of the Wasatch Range. Logan Canyon is popular for both summer and winter activities. The canyon rises to an elevation of approximately 7,800 feet above sea level after a vertical climb of about 2,900 feet from the city of Logan. Just beyond the summit is a very steep road (8% grade) leading down into the Bear Lake Valley with scenic overlooks that provide views of the lake. The western terminus of the canyon is at Logan in the beautiful Cache Valley, and the eastern terminus is at Garden City on Bear lake.
I can’t think of any other drive that delivered better fall color in the trees. And that is saying something, since the whole of Utah was ablaze with color this year. Along with the various peaks into adjoining canyons and glimpses of high rock formations, this canyon was absolutely delightful to travel through. It is now one of our favorite roads in this area that we will certainly wish to visit again on a future trip.
As you drive through the area you pass checkerboard farms, which radiate the gold, amber and pumpkin colors of the harvest season. Trees along roadways and streams are ablaze with yellow, scarlet and brown hues, often bumping up against the evergreens on the mountainsides and the deep blue waters of the many area lakes and reservoirs. The views are spectacular.
But I must say, the decline into Garden City was a bit scary. Twisty and steep roads are not a pleasant combination especially when it feels like the trailer you are supposedly hauling is trying to beat you down the hill. OK, of course there are brakes on the trailer. But still, I always heave a sigh of relief when we beat the trailer to the bottom!
We arrived safely in camp. And since we hadn’t stopped for lunch along our drive and it was nearing 4:00 pm, we had a nice nibble or cheeses, crackers, etc. Then we joined Jim and Margo in their new rig for cocktails. They had eaten a large late lunch, so after making plans for the following day, we headed back to our trailer for another small nibble and an early to bed. Life just doesn’t get much finer!

Wednesday, October 6, 2021 – Bear Lake/Marina Side KOA
This was another of those “no hurry” mornings that I love so much. After a nice leisurely coffee and writing yesterday’s trip report, it was time to walk over to Jim and Margo’s mega mansion motorhome for brunch. A fabulous hash made of small cubes of potatoes, onion, and red bell pepper sautéed to perfection. Then cubed ham and cheese. As we arrived Jim asked us how we like our eggs. (This is truly going to be another fine dining experience with Jim at the helm.)
After eating our fill, it was off to take a ride back up the road we came in on (Logan Canyon Scenic Byway) yesterday. (Amazing how the hill climb out of Garden City was no problem at all without Pullwinkle (our trailer) trying to keep up with us.) Until you have pulled a trailer up and over a pass, you have no idea how trepidatious it can be. At least, I had no idea until we pulled our first trailer some 29 years ago. But after all the adventures we have had pulling a trailer, I kind of know what to expect. But then, every damn pass is different. Some have easy grades and some make you so scared you almost wet your pants. And throughout the years we have seen many of both. So, at least for us, we like to park the trailer and drive the really hairy passes with our trailer safely parked at a campground. It’s not always possible, but definitely the preferred approach.

This scenic drive begins on the Logan Canyon scenic byway. A seven-mile paved road climbs to a height of 8050 feet (2454 m) to reach Tony Grove Lake and the Mount Naomi Wilderness area. The area around this glacial lake explodes into wildflowers in the early summer. (Or so I’m told!)

After this lovely scenic drive, it was time to get back to camp to prepare our portion of the evening meal to be shared with Jim and Margo. Since Jim and Margo had prepared our breakfast, I was to bring the appetizers, salad, side dish, and dessert for the evening meal. Jim was preparing the entrée. Brined and grilled pork chops.
So, I prepared a small appetizer spread including Braunschweiger pate (homemade), a couple cheesy offerings, black olives, and nuts to begin the meal. Then a green salad with apple and blue cheese, a mushroom rice pilaf, and cookies for dessert. (From our freezer). And of course, cocktails with the appetizers. Duh!
Then back to our trailer for another terrific night’s sleep.

Thursday, October 7, 2021 – City of Rocks RV, Almo, Idaho – site 24
After a nice breakfast and saying farewell to our dear friends, we headed up the west side of Bear Lake on highway 89 into Idaho. But we hadn’t seen the last of Utah by a long shot. We spent the whole day driving on roads up, down, and sidewise to get to our next destination. We went In and out of Idaho on our drive to the City of Rocks National Reserve near Almo, Idaho. After 89, we turned onto 36 and up and over a pass and then through the Strawberry Canyon. (Still in Idaho.) Turned left onto 34 and into Preston. (Yep, still in Idaho.) Stopped for gas and to change drivers. Then continued south on 34 to 61 (Back in Utah.) Then west to pick up 23 south. Then west on 30 to Interstate 15. Headed south again until we hit Interstate 84, then northwest to Snowville. (Still in Utah.) Then back on to 30 and into beautiful downtown Malta. (Now we are in Idaho again.) Then 77 to Almo Road. Turn left. Then turn right onto a dirt road when you get to the sign that welcomes you to City of Rocks National Reserve. (If you don’t turn, you’d run out of road anyway!) Whew! Even writing about our travels today is mind boggling.
But regardless of all the turns and roads we took, the scenery was delightful. Fall color everywhere. And a nice quiet campground waiting for us. Only one other rig. Can’t beat that! The campground also offers wide open mountain views and is right at the entrance of the City of Rocks National Reserve. Aside from that, it’s basically an open field with a few trees. But its right where it should be if you want to visit this incredible land.
After a nice dinner, it was early to bed to dream about re-visiting all the amazing rock formations we thought we remembered from our previous visit.

Friday, October 8, 2021 – City of Rocks RV

The City of Rocks National Reserve is one of southern Idaho’s best backcountry adventures. It is located in a little-known corner of Idaho, 2 miles from the Utah border. This part of the state lies right at the edge of the Great Basin Desert, and the land has the familiar topography of scattered mountain ranges separated by wide, empty, sagebrush valleys. The 14,407-acre reserve is situated at the south end of the Albion Mountains, and features towering granite pinnacles, fins, and domes that remind visitors of a “city of tall spires”. It has also been referred to as a “silent city”.
There are few roads in the reserve, but they bring you up close and personal to visit the many and varied rock formations. The mountains in the area are generally uninteresting from afar, formed of partly wooded (Pinyon Pine) sides sloping up to flat ridgelines. But for several square miles, the usual rounded, grassy summits are replaced by fantastic formations of eroded granite forming spires, cliffs, arches, and narrow ravines. But you can’t see most of the formations from the main road. (And I use the term “main road” very loosely.) You must go into the reserve and travel the unpaved roads at a leisurely pace. (You couldn’t go any faster than at a leisurely pace. These roads were not built for speed. They were built for Humvees. But Humvees are hard to come by and not very practical since it’s difficult to pass any DMV inspection!) But our trusty Toyota Tundra did just fine. (But a Humvee would have been more fun.)

Next, we visited Lake Cleveland. Only 47 minutes away from camp, Lake Cleveland is at an elevation of 8,300 feet. And the drive there is magnificent. It is one of those, “let’s drive up to the top of the world on a real scary road (albeit paved), view a small lake, look around for a while, and then drive down again – slowly”. And if you are lucky, you arrive back at your camp unscathed. But in all honesty, I’ve been on very few drives with any better views. At times you felt like you were seeing all of Idaho from the comfort of your vehicle. I would recommend this drive to anyone. OK, maybe not someone who suffers from acrophobia. This drive would not be a joy and a delight for them.

After seeing our fill, we paid a visit to Malta for gas. Also, a stop at the Batter Up bakery for cinnamon rolls and dinner rolls with honey butter. Yum!
Then back to camp for dinner, reading, writing, and pillows.

Saturday, October 9, 2021 – Bruneau Dunes SP, Mountain Home, ID – site 1 in the Broken Wheel loop
Left camp at a reasonable time, (At least, reasonable for us!) Then north on the Almo Road, north on 77 (bucking the wind the whole time), through the town of Declo, a thriving mini metropolis in the middle of nowhere, and west on I-84 to highway 78 which took us right to our destination.
Parked the trailer under blue skies and spent the afternoon outside the trailer. Andy took a short bicycle ride, and I might have fallen asleep reading.

A bit about the dunes, the main feature of the park. The dunes are unique in the Western Hemisphere. Where other sand dunes in the Americas form at the edge of a natural basin, the Bruneau dunes form near the center. The basin has acted as a natural sand trap for over 12,000 years.
The dunes may have started with sands from the Bonneville Flood about 15,000 years ago. With prevailing winds blowing from the southeast 28 percent of the time and from the northwest 32 percent of the time, the dunes stay fairly stable. And unlike most dunes, these heaps of sand do not drift far. In fact, the state park is the site of North America’s tallest single-structured sand dune, which is approximately 470 feet in height. The state park also includes desert, prairie, lake, and marsh habitat. So, a very interesting place to visit. And a very nice place to park a trailer.

Sunday, October 10, 2021 – Burns RV Park, Burns, OR – site 31
Originally, we were to have camped at the Quail Ridge RV Park in Burns. Got there and the “park” was basically a gravel lot. No amenities such as bathrooms, trees, grass, picnic tables, fire pits, etc. The place was literally a gravel parking lot. We stopped, looked around, found our site which would have had us backed up to a chain link fence with homes on the other side that were less than attractive. (Not the best part of town.)
We instantly decided this was not the place for us. Paid for, or not! So, we decided to take our chances with the nice campground we had seen as we drove into town. Turns out the Good Sam Burns RV Park had a lovely available site for our trailer, and we ended up having a very pleasant stay. Just another reminder that false advertising is alive and well. Quail ridge indeed!

After getting settled, we decided dinner would be nice. Upon a recommendation from our park host, it was off to Boomer’s Place in the booming metropolis of Hines, Oregon.

Now, this is not your ordinary diner. I mean really, how many dining establishments advertise – “where great food, craft-brewed beer, and fly fishing meet”! See! How could we possibly resist an opportunity to dine at such an establishment?
When we arrived, we were greeted by Boomer himself. Funny, caustic, friendly, satirical, fun-loving, and at the time – harried. It turns out he was the entire staff for the evening. Greeter, seater, chef, waiter, and producer of bill. I ordered a chicken fried steak and Mr. C. had a blacked salmon Caesar salad. Great food and fun surroundings.
As we were leaving, I casually mentioned that perhaps he should hire some help. (And of course I said this in my usual helpful and kind way.) He responded that if he could find someone to help, he surely would do just that! (I felt like such a dope. All kinds of small businesses are trying to find workers. I should have thought about that before I opened my mouth.)
But as I told Andy on our way back to the trailer, if I lived in Hines (next door to Burns), I would help him out even if I didn’t make a cent. Mainly because the food and ambience were worth protecting. And because Boomer was definitely the kind of person, who if given the opportunity, I’m sure could become a good friend.

Monday, October 11, 2021 – Burns RV Park
After a nice breakfast, we decided to take a drive to one of our favorite areas of the state. The High Desert Discovery Scenic Byway begins at Burns and proceeds south on Highway 205. Along the way there are great views of Steens Mountain to the south and Malheur Lake and the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge along the road.
Skirting the marshes of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, we soon came to the Diamond Loop Tour Route, which leads to Diamond Craters and the Peter French Round Barn.
The Diamond Craters area has some of the most diverse basaltic volcanic features in the nation clustered within a small, semi-accessible area. The 27-square-mile area consists of basaltic lava flows, cinder cones, and maars. (A maar is a broad, shallow crater formed by a volcanic eruption with little lava and in the right season, typically fills with ground water.) The road that leads you to these areas is not paved. Neither is it wide, or easy to navigate. So, caution is advised. (Where’s that Humvee when you need it?) Even in our 4-wheel drive truck, the road was quite challenging. But the effort was worth it. Unfortunately, the individual features did not photograph very well. (OK, the photographer didn’t really know how to capture these splendid formations to best effect. She did try, however. But they are at their best seen in person.)

Next it was a visit to the famous Peter French Round Barn.
We had visited this barn on our first visit to this area with Andy’s parents 20-some years ago. On our two subsequent trips, we had taken other drives including the drive south on the western side of Steens Mountain to Fields. And we had visited the wild mustangs. But we had not taken the opportunity to visit this unique barn again. And I am so glad we made the time this trip. Because, this barn is truly unique.
According to an Oregon State Parks site, “the Pete French Round Barn remains a monument to one man’s livestock empire. Peter French arrived in 1872 and began amassing land and cattle. By the mid-1880s, his enterprise had grown to 70,000 acres and 45,000 head of cattle.
Some claimed he didn’t legally acquire the land or water rights, which prompted land disputes and court cases and added to his controversial reputation. One of the disputes eventually led to his murder in 1897.
Although dubbed the ‘Cattle King,” French was the first rancher in the area to put up hay. He also raised thousands of sheep for their wool. The Round Barn was used to train wild horses to pull long wagon trains full of wool, hay and supplies to market in Oregon City.
The interior of the barn consists of a circular rock wall, constructed with local rock and mud, which enclosed the central stable area. The remainder of the structure is constructed from lumber that was hauled to the site from 60 miles to the north. The interior is unique in that it is supported by juniper posts. The center area was used as a horse stable; around the outside of the rock wall, there is a covered circular track that was used to exercise horses during winter months. The barn looks much as it did when cattleman Pete French constructed it.

In today’s landscape, this type of barn is unique. But during 1880–1920, round barns became popular in the Midwest where they were promoted as being efficient for progressive methods of farming. The Round Barn has sweeping views of the high buttes surrounding the low plains and marshes with the picturesque Steens Mountain towering in the distance.”
A great place to visit, and as in our case – re-visit.
Then it was on through Frenchglen and onto a dirt road that leads to the best area to view all the denizens of this marshy area. The refuge is 39 miles wide and 40 miles long and is home to 320 bird species. Spring is the most spectacular season for bird watching, but we decided to drive on the dirt road that cuts right through the refuge anyway to see if there were still any birdies that would appreciate having their picture taken. But alas, hardly any birds to be seen, and none that offered themselves to be immortalized on my blog post. So, we only drove half the way and then bailed back to the main road.

Then it was back to camp for dinner, reading, writing, and arithmetic if you consider Andy balancing our accounts and making sure we were still in the black.

Tuesday, October 12, 2021 – La Pine SP, La Pine, OR – site S23
After a big breakfast, it was time to break camp. Next stop La Pine State Park.
So, we hopped on US-20 bound first for Bend, OR. Now this was new road for us, but it certainly will not be the last time we drive this route. The reason being, that as you approach Bend from the east, on a clear day, like we experienced, you are blessed with an amazing view of the Oregon Cascades from Mt. Bachelor to Mt. Hood. But at first glance, the perspective was kind of funny. It was as if we were at a higher elevation looking down on the Sisters*. Strange. But as we got closer, the Sisters somehow shifted into position, and they loomed over us – as well they should!
*Part of the Cascade Volcanic Arc and the Cascade Range located in the Three Sisters Wilderness, Three Sisters were known to the pioneers as Faith (North Sister), Hope (Middle Sister) and Charity (South Sister).
Arrived safely in Bend to road construction and masses of humanity. And new townhouses, apartments, shopping centers, etc. every-damn-where! All I could think was for Andy to GET US OUT OF HERE! So, being the jolly good fellow he is, and a darned good mind reader to boot, he drove us straight to La Pine. And to the lovely state park nestled deep in the woods.

After setting up camp, it was time to read and write, then dinner, then an early to bed. And BTW, it was cold. And if truth be known, we were somewhat concerned about snow. OK, not somewhat in my case. I was darned worried about snow. Didn’t happen. But it could have!! But cold enough that we had to disconnect the water so the hose water wouldn’t freeze and/or cause damage to the park’s water connection.

Wednesday, October 13, 2021 – La Pine SP
For today’s grand adventure, we drove south to Crescent, then west on Crescent Cutoff to the southern end of the Cascades Lakes highway. Then up the highway. Next stop Lava Flow Campground just off the Cascade Lakes Highway on Davis Lake. Where, considering that it was fall and the end of a very dry summer, the water was very low. The campground, such as it is, is very primitive, but also absolutely unique. It is nestled in pine trees on a small stretch of beach on the NE corner of the lake, between the end of a gigantic lava flow (somewhere around 100-feet high) and a steep hill. The campground is essentially just a collection of picnic tables and a pit toilet, on a semi-flat area of otherwise unforgiving terrain. And lest you think the lava flow would be fun to climb, think again. The lava rock has nothing to offer besides sharp and jagged edges.
But amazing as it seems, there are a few pine trees that have rooted themselves in the lava rock. How they can maintain life with such an apparent dearth of soil and nutrients is beyond my comprehension. But there they are non the less!

Then back on the highway to turn up forest road 42 to visit Twin Lakes Resort. After turning in to check out the resort we drove to the end of the road to visit the Wickiup Reservoir. But before we got to the Wickiup Reservoir, we drove by a smaller reservoir. Where the reservoir had been full last time we visited this area, the only water remaining was the Deschutes River that had been damned up in the first place to form the reservoir.

Then up to Crain Prairie Resort and continued north to Forest Road 40 where we turned right and went into Sunriver. We encountered snow on the road over the shoulder of Dry Butte. Then lunch at the Big Belly Burgers and Brew.
Then we took Huntington Road back to camp. Andy went for a hike to Fall River Falls and I wrote up the day’s adventures.

I guess this is a good time to tell you my tale of woe. Every travel experience since the 6th of October had to be recreated when we got home. Some quirk of fate involving Microsoft Word, my computer, and an evil gremlin, conspired to delete all my written efforts after the 6th. So, I have had to go back and re-write the whole darn travel log from the 6th, from memory! And I’m old. I can’t remember what I had for breakfast most days. So, with help from Andy, I have tried to reconstruct our routes and experiences. But there’s a darn good reason I usually write up the day’s adventures on the same day they occur. Because, well, if you’re over 70 you will completely understand. If you aren’t over 70, your turn will come, and you too will probably be blessed with a flaming case of CRS. So, I know I’m forgetting a lot, and making errors, but it’s the best I can do with my faculties as they are.

Thursday, October 14, 2021 – Peach Beach RV Park, Goldendale, WA – site 39
After some grocery provisioning and taking on of fuel, it was on our way to Peach Beach, one of our favorite places to park our trailer. Our route took us up US-97, thru Bend (not again!), Redmond (where we had the best corndog – ever), Madras, Shaniko, and Moro straight to Biggs Junction, OR.

Biggs is a station on the Union Pacific Railroad (UP) at what was once a junction with the UP’s Grass Valley line, since abandoned. Biggs was named for a nearby landowner, W. H. Biggs, who settled in the area in 1880. The rail line was originally owned by the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company (OR&N). In 1885 the OR&N station at Biggs was called Spanish Hollow, after the canyon that opens onto the river at that location. The canyon was said to be named because a Spanish ox died there in the days of the Oregon Trail. (Oh, the things you learn on Wikipedia!) The Oregon Trail ran parallel with today’s US-97. Biggs is where travelers on the Oregon Trail would first see the mighty Columbia River after their overland journey.
The current community of Biggs Junction was named for the station, which is less than a mile west of the current junction at the intersection of I-84 and US- 97. And calling this massive truck center with an abundance of fast-food joints a community, is a bit of a stretch. But Biggs Junction has its redeeming qualities. Easy place to get gas when you are towing a trailer and it’s right across the river from Peach Beach!

Friday, October 15, 2021 – Peach Beach RV Park
Today was another fun day. We decided to explore some of the areas around Biggs Junction. So, turning right at Biggs Junction, after crossing the mighty Columbia River from the Washington side, we were minding our own business, when I happened to glance to my left, and there they were. Airplane wings. Stacked up in a roped off area right next to the road. What caused us to stop, was a need to capture these huge “wings” on film. (So, to speak.) Because on our way from Mountain Home, Idaho to Bruneau Dunes SP, we saw some of the largest and most diverse wide loads being hauled by semi trucks that either of us had ever encountered. Huge tube-like critters. And very strange looking generator like monstrosities. But one of the strangest loads on really long-bed trailers, were, what we thought at the time to be airplane wings. So, I asked Andy to turn the truck around so that I could get a picture.
I got out of the truck and started towards a good place to snap a picture, when this gentleman approached me to tell me that this area was off limits. I assured him I was not an industrial spy, or any type of spy for that matter, and that all I wanted was a picture for my travel log. He was fine with that. But he assured me that the items in question were not airplane wings. They were wind turbine blades. Of course, they were! So, he proceeded to tell me about all the new wind turbines that were being installed (planted) on the plateau above the river on the Oregon side. And that the blades had been manufactured overseas, unloaded off ships at the Port of Vancouver, and then trucked to their present location. He also explained how wind turbines work.
Wind turbines work on a simple principle: instead of using electricity to make wind, like an electric fan, wind turbines use wind to make electricity. Wind turns the propeller-like blades of a turbine around a rotor, which then spins a generator, which in turn creates electricity. A nice man, and a very helpful man.

By the time I got back to the truck, Andy had figured it out. We both felt like dummies because we had been seeing wind turbines in various places throughout our trip. Plus, there were no airplane manufacturers anywhere in the vicinity. Duh!
So, we took in all this new information, then got back on the road, and proceeded up the Fulton Canyon (206) to Wasco.
What amazed me as we came to the top of the canyon and onto the plateau, was the number and vastness of the wheat fields. I had no idea anything like this existed once you got to the top of the Columbia River canyon walls. Rolling hills with wheat fields dotted with wind turbines. Lots of wind turbines. And no wheat left at the base of those huge electricity making monsters. The term “picked clean” comes to mind! And the countryside, really lovely in its own way. Basically golden rolling hills at this time of year. Of course, the sun was shining, so that didn’t hurt.
Next, we continued on 206 to explore the Cottonwood Canyon and the Cottonwood Canyon State Park.

Cottonwood Canyon State Park, established in 2013, is the second largest state park in Oregon, encompassing 8,000 acres on the lower John Day River. The largest herd of California bighorn sheep live in the area, as do Rocky Mountain elk, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, and many smaller mammals. A variety of snakes, including the western rattlesnake, live in the park, which is also home to several lizard species. Fish in the river include Chinook salmon, steelhead, catfish, carp, and smallmouth bass. And because the park is so new, it practically sparkles.
So, after driving through the park it was time to head back to camp, with a small side drive from Wasco down Scott Canyon to Rufus, home of the John Day Dam and the Giles French Park. Stretching for 1.7 miles from Rufus to the entrance to the dam, Giles French Park is owned and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers and, like most Corps of Engineers projects, allows free camping for up to 14 days. And there were a few trailers and camping vehicles, but primarily there were green areas and parking areas where those who wished to, could spend a lovely day right on the river.

Then onto a frontage road that leads back to where we started – Biggs Junction. And just because we could – we shared a large chocolate shake from McDonalds. Age does have its privileges!
Then back to the trailer and a late afternoon read outside.

Saturday, October 16, 2021 – Yakima River RV, Ellensburg, WA – site 25
An easy run from Peach Beach up and over Satus Pass (elevation 3107 feet) on US Highway 97. The pass connects Goldendale and the Klickitat Valley with the Yakama Indian Reservation and the Yakima Valley to the north. The Simcoe Mountains lie to the west of Satus Pass, and Bickleton Ridge in the Horse Heaven Hills to the east.
But before you reach the top of the pass (about 10 miles north of Goldendale), we had to make a stop at one of our favorite dining establishments – St. John’s Monastery & Bakery.
The Holy Monastery of St. John the Forerunner was founded in 1995, when local Doctor Gerald Timmer donated his 48-acre property to the Greek Orthodox Diocese of San Francisco for the foundation of a women’s monastic community. There are now 20 nuns and novices at St. John’s Monastery. The monastery supports itself solely by the handiwork of the sisters and donations. They practice the traditional arts of the Orthodox church including: writing Byzantine icons, knotting prayer ropes, making incense, and dipping beeswax candles. They also mount icon prints and make natural soap and lotion and bake traditional Greek food and pastries for their bakery and gift shop.
For us, it would be practically sacrilegious to pass this bakery without stopping for a gyro or spanakopita and an espresso drink for Mr. C. The food is terrific, the nuns are delightful, the coffee is great, and the shop is very interesting to walk around while you wait for your food to appear as if by divine intervention. (The kitchen is off-site, so food is delivered to your table by one of the nuns.) After eating our delicious gyros, it was back on the road for us.
There are two ways to get from Yakima to Ellensburg. One way is to travel Interstate 82 up and over two ridges, Umtanum and Manastash. A nice way to go, but by far, the preferred route for us is SR 821, designated the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway.
The canyon was formed approximately 10 million years ago through the erosion of rocks formed by basalt lava flows. The byway passes through shrub-steppe habitats that are home to trout, bighorn sheep, mule deer, and a variety of visiting or permanent bird species.
Near the south end of the Yakima River Canyon, which cuts across the Umtanum Ridge, SR 821 crosses into Kittitas County. The two-lane highway generally runs along the bottom of the canyon, to the east of the river and railroad and paralleled to the east by I-82. At its south end, the highway passes downhill from an earlier alignment that was tunneled under a section of the ridge. At Roza Dam, the railroad crosses over to the west side of the river while SR 821 stays uphill from the river, cutting through part of the ridge. The highway continues north, following the cliffs along the meandering river and opposite the railroad and the Wenas Wildlife Area to the west. It passes through 9,000 acres of land owned by the Bureau of Land Management, which includes several campgrounds, boat launches, and four recreational areas. The area also has several cattle ranches and farms centered around the Burbank Valley. Midway through the valley, SR 821 passes the Canyon River Ranch, an isolated rest area with shops, restaurants, and cabins.
But the main reasons for us taking this route was because it is a beautiful canyon and we hadn’t visited it in many years. And at this time of year, the fall color would be spectacular. Neither of us could remember this canyon being so amazing, so we were simply blown away by the beauty. And a surprise, at least for me since I usually just go along for the ride, sat Yakima River RV. Perfect. Sorry no pictures of the canyon, but we were getting close to home and my camera finger was tired. But, this glorious canyon is close to home. So, we will be back. And we will take pictures. So, stay tuned.

Sunday, October 17, 2021 – HOME
After a small breakfast and cleaning as much of the inside of the trailer as possible, this being our last day on the road and in preparation to turn the trailer over to have it winterized, we were on the road by 11:11 am. (Pretty good considering all the stuff that had to get done before we left camp.)
Then onto I-90 and home. But on the way, even though we had traveled Snoqualmie Pass many times, the trees had never looked more glorious, especially the vine maple. It was like seeing the pass for the first time.
Safely back at our storage facility, we unloaded the fridge and freezer, grabbed a few items of clothing, remembered our toiletries and daily pills, and left the rest until the next day. We were tired and just wanted to set foot in our primary dwelling.
Traveling in a trailer is wonderful, but part of the pleasure is getting home. Kitties waiting to be loved on, a shower that you can do the can-can in if you so choose, and water that comes out of faucets that don’t have to first be hooked-up, pumped, or the hot water heater turned on. Water at home just appears as if by magic. And just like you want it. There really is no place like home.
But give me a trailer anytime over a hotel room. Your cloths don’t have to be unpacked every night, you can prepare your own meals, your booze is chilling in your own refrigerator, and maid service is complimentary.
As I looked out my kitchen window when we got home, I thought of all the wonders of nature I had seen on our trip. But the most beautiful view for me is still the one I see every day out my east facing windows. Trees, Port Susan Bay, and the Cascade Mountains. And I realized again, how exceedingly lucky I am. Not only to be able to enjoy my home, but be able to experience such wonderful travels with Mr. C.
So, thanks for coming along with us on our latest adventure. My hope for you is that you too have the chance to experience your own adventures and make your own memories.
And as always – Peace and Love to all.