PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 1 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 2, 3, 4, and 5. So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Saturday, September 9, 2023 – Camano Island
The Beatles had it right. Most weeks contain only 7 days, however, there are 8 days in a week when you are traveling. Because the day before you leave is all about getting ready for your departure. Making a list, checking it twice, adding this, re-thinking that, etc. etc. But invariably, things do not always go as planned!
First of all, our airline tickets (and I use the term “tickets” lightly) look more like an itinerary than tickets. With instructions to go online 24 hours before the flight to check in and print your boarding passes. Right! But first you must select your seats. Good luck with that. I could select seats for the first leg of our adventure (Seattle to Istanbul), but there was only 1 seat available for the second flight from Istanbul to Athens. So, no I couldn’t check in and print our boarding passes. So, I called Turkish Airlines customer service for assistance. I was told “not to worry, there would be no problem checking in and there would be seats available”. Being the worry wort that I am, I also called Skylux, the company that booked our tickets, and they said just go to check in and there would be no problem.
What both customer service people failed to tell me, was that unless you pay an additional $190 per person to choose your own seats, you get whatever seats Turkish Airlines assigns you. Had either of these people told me this, I would have been able to sleep more than 3½ hours Saturday night. But they didn’t and I tossed and turned ALL BLOODY NIGHT! (Subsequently, I learned that other airlines do the same thing now and others we met had experienced the same frustration.) So, be advised. This is the new reality. Well, until they change their ways again without any notification!
Sunday, September 10, 2023 and Monday, September 11, 2023 – Turkish Airlines and The Frogs Guest House, Athina (Athens)
We left home about 11:00 am Sunday morning. We were due at our car park by 2:00 pm. So, to provide more anxiety to my already worried self, I-405 was closed and there was a football game in Seattle starting at 1:30 pm. So, we knew traffic was going to be a mess. But we got to the car park by our appointed time, and were at the airport way before we needed to check in.
So, we waited in line, for an extra hour because our flight was delayed, with the other Business Class passengers until we were able to reach the counter and be told that we had not checked in as instructed and to just go home and forget about traveling in the 21st century! Just kidding. Everything went as smooth as silk. We hadn’t even needed to bring along any verification of purchased tickets, etc., because all the check in lady needed was a passport from each of us.
Of course, the lovely young woman I’m sure went home that evening and told her husband that there really should be an age limit or some kind of test to make sure older people were up to date on how to use apps, understood current airline rules and regulations, and were taking valium if they wanted to travel in a world where things change every 15 minutes! But I digress…..
After obtaining our boarding passes for both flights, we headed off to pay our respects to TSA. And because we were flying Business Class, we got through TSA in about 5 minutes. So, we did what all smart people do when there are 2 hours (at least) before their flight; we went in search of a beer. And lunch. In that order!
After a nice seafood lunch, we went to the Turkish Airlines lounge and sat around until it was time to go to our gate. Where again we sat around until it was time to board our plane, a Boeing 787.
Now in all our previous overseas adventures, we had always traveled steerage (economy class). But after our last adventure in 2019 to the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, and Hungary (BC – Before Covid), we decided that next time, we would go 1st class. For Turkish Airlines long flights, first class is called Business Class. And for those of you who have never had the opportunity, let me be the first to recommend going this route. Because for the first time ever, I could sleep during a flight. Well of course I could. I was fully stretched out flat, in my own little pod, having first been tucked in by a nice flight attendant. And the food was amazing! But a little bit of fun at the inflight “chef’s” expense.
It was touted that Turkish Air Business Class would have its own chef onboard. And sure enough, there was a gentleman walking around in full chef regalia. But, if you have ever flown on a commercial airplane, no matter its size, then you know that the galley on a plane is about the size of a half bath. And there ain’t no way in hell that any actual food preparation is ever going to happen in that galley. So that means, along with all the stewards and stewardesses, the “chef’s” responsibility was to look good and inspire confidence that the food will at least be palatable. And to help warm the entrées, place the entrées on a tray, and clean up after the trays are returned to the galley. If I had been more awake and in a snarky mood, I would have begged the “chef” for his recipe for the chicken entrée. But I showed remarkable restraint. You would have been very proud of me!
So, upon arrival at Istanbul, instead of being groggy and cranky, I was bright eyed and bushy tailed. Which is a good thing. Because landing in concourse B, we had to walk about 3 miles (actually, only about ½ mile) to concourse F for our flight to Athens. Istanbul airport is simply ginormous! And we had to walk from one end to the other!
But we got on our plane just fine, had a quick but fine dinner onboard, and arrived in Athens after only being in the air for 1 hour.
Then off the plane and prepared to stand in line for passport control for an hour or more. But for the first time ever in our travels, there was no one ahead of us and WE WERE THE FIRST PEOPLE TO GO THROUGH. All the nice man did was stamp our passports and we were on our way to wait for our baggage to appear. But again, there was no waiting. The bags were already on the carousel when we arrived. Then we went out the arrival doors in search of a taxi. But they were all lined up right in front of us, so we were only in line for about 3 minutes before we were tucked into the back seat of a cab and on our merry way to our guest house.
We were simply amazed at the efficiency we encountered at this airport. And our cabby had been very pleasant and got us safely to our destination without hitting another vehicle or person even though most of the way to our guest house he was driving at 130 k.
As we approached our accommodation, he told us we had chosen a great area of the city for our 5 nights in Athens. That it was a great low crime neighborhood with lots of restaurants and shops.
Marina, the young lady in charge of the small (3 room) guest house, restaurant, coffee shop, and bar was so gracious even though we hadn’t arrived until after 11:00 pm. She spent quite a bit of time with us, even at this late hour, explaining how things worked, and what and how the guest house could be of service. Then it was unpacking a bit, sitting out on our lovely large private deck, and then to bed.
We both slept well at first but were wide awake at about 3:00 am. Andy even got up for a while. After about 3 hours of tossing and turning, I finally went back to sleep. When I awoke at 9:47 am, Andy was sound asleep next to me. I showered then woke him up so that we could go to breakfast downstairs. (Breakfast hours were from 8-12. Terribly civilized.)
Tuesday, September 12, 2023
After a leisurely breakfast, we went for a walk around the area. We wanted to locate where we were to be picked up the next morning for our tour to Delphi. After locating our pickup point, we headed back to our room. But first, we had our first gelato of the trip. Then back to our room for me to write, Andy to read (and take a nap), and then some reading time for both of us before dinner.
But first, a beer at one of the outdoor tables where we are staying.
Then to a restaurant in the next alley for grilled calamari (fabulous) for me and incredible pizza for Mr. C. Then back to our terrace for a bit of reading before bed. A lovely first day in Athens. Well at least it was until I tried to get to sleep.
But a good night’s sleep was not in the cards for me. I was awake most of the night. Jet lag is a real thing. And Tuesday night I had what might be called “the mother of all loss of sleep jet lag experiences”. I believe I only got about 1 hour of sleep the whole darn night.
Wednesday, September 13, 2023 (Delphi)
Up (please notice – I didn’t say “awake” because I hadn’t really slept) at the crack of dawn to pick up a sack breakfast and be on our way. For today’s adventure, we had received a text stating that we should be at our pickup location by 7:35 am. We got there 10 minutes early and the bus picked us up at 8:05 am. Then through Athens (population over 4 million) during rush hour to stop at several other pickup locations for additional riders. (And we think Seattle has traffic problems!)
Something I need to stress at this point. Everyone in this fine city is friendly, civil, courteous, and pleasant. If you step in front of someone and say excuse me or sorry, you always get some derivation of no problem or not to worry. Even from some of the scruffiest individuals you would assume would growl at you rather than offer you a civil retort. Nope. Doesn’t happen. Everyone seems to be polite. But back to our Delphi One Day from Athens with Pickup and Lunch tour.
According to history.com (and I paraphrase) “Delphi was an ancient religious sanctuary dedicated to the Greek god Apollo. Developed in the 8th century B.C., the sanctuary was home to the Oracle of Delphi and the princess Pythis who was famed throughout the ancient world for divining the future and therefore consulted before any and all major undertakings.
It was also the home of the Pythian Games, the second most important games in Greece after the Olympics. Delphi declined with the rise of Christianity and was ultimately buried under the site of a new village until the late 1800s. Located about six miles from the Gulf of Corinth in the territory of Phoics, Delphi is situated between the two towering rocks of Mount Parnassus known as the Phaidriades (Shining) Rocks.
The site contains the remains of the sanctuary of Apollo, the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia — meaning, “Athena who is before the temple (of Apollo)” — and various other buildings, most of which were intended for sports, such as the gymnasium used for exercise and learning.
When visitors approached Delphi, the first structure they saw was the sanctuary of Athena. This sanctuary contained the most characteristic monument at Delphi: Tholos, a circular building with a conical roof supported by a ring of outer columns.
Visitors would then walk along the Sacred Way, a path to the sanctuary of Apollo that was lined with treasuries and votive monuments. Given that Delphi was a pan-Hellenic sanctuary, it was not controlled by any one Greek city-state and instead was a sanctuary for all Greeks. The individual city-states constructed the treasuries as offerings to Apollo and to show off their power and wealth.
The central and most important part of Delphi was the temple of Apollo, where Pythia delivered her prophetic words in the adyton, a separate, restricted room at the rear. The temple of Apollo sat atop a large terrace supported by a polygonal wall.
The Sacred Way also led to the theatre of Delphi above the temple and the stadium (for athletic contests) further up. Delphi also contained settlements and cemeteries, which were built outside and around the two sanctuaries.
Greeks considered Delphi the center (or navel) of the world.
This sacred stone represented the “navel” of the world.
According to Greek mythology, Zeus sent out two eagles, one to the east and the other to the west, to find the navel of the world. The eagles met at the future site of Delphi. Zeus marked the spot with a sacred stone called the omphalos (meaning navel), which was later held at the sanctuary of Apollo. Greeks believed the site was originally sacred and belonged to Gaea, or Mother Earth, and was guarded by Gaea’s serpent child, Python. Apollo killed Python and founded his oracle there.
According to legend, natives of the island of Crete, accompanied by Apollo in the guise of a dolphin, arrived at the port of Delphi (Kirrha) and built the god’s sanctuary.”
The stadium
From the stadium looking down on the sanctuary of Apollo.
Pictures inside the Delphi Museum.
This “navel” was inside the museum.
One of the elaborate statues in the museum.
Although the tour got off to a rocky start (the bus was late getting to our stop and the time going through the narrow streets of Athens) the tour itself was a pleasure. We had an excellent tour guide, the scenery along the way was spectacular, and our fellow travelers were civil and friendly. And the lunch that was selected for us was delicious, but way too much food for this gal. But the beer was great and frosty cold. The lunch was so substantial that our dinner that evening consisted of 2 scoops of gelato each. Then back to our room to read a bit. And for me, an early to bed having taken a Tylenol PM to make sure I slept the whole night through.
Thursday, September 14, 2023 (The Acropolis)
According to whc.unesco.org. “The Acropolis of Athens and its monuments are universal symbols of the classical spirit and civilization and form the greatest architectural and artistic complex bequeathed by Greek Antiquity to the world. In the second half of the fifth century bc, Athens, following the victory against the Persians and the establishment of democracy, took a leading position amongst the other city-states of the ancient world. In the age that followed, as thought and art flourished, an exceptional group of artists put into effect the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman Pericles and, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument of thought and the arts. The most important monuments were built during that time: the Parthenon, built by Ictinus, the Erechtheon, the Propylaea, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis, designed by Mnesicles and the small temple Athena Nike.”
But before we visit this amazing wonder of the ancient world, a bit of reality about some of the problems of our modern world: Slept like the dead. Good thing too, because today things did not go as planned. Oh, we got a good enough start, but we always forget that taking public transportation (in this case Metro, the underground trains) in a foreign city means figuring out:
1) the location of the nearest underground station (and in this case, also the above ground trains running to other large cities).
2) how to buy a ticket
3) how to use the ticket
4) how to find the right platform
5) which side of the tracks you need
6) how to transfer to a different line and which way to your destination
7) and then once you are at the right destination, which set of stairs to use to get where you need to be
Well, we made it to where we thought we should be, gave our names to the tour leaders and found that they did not have our names listed. I even checked their handwritten lists. We were not on the lists, so we assumed we were at the wrong place.
Turns out after much checking, going to what we thought was the booking office, we were in the right place at the right time to begin with. For whatever reason, our names were not on their handwritten list. So, no guided walking tour of the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. Out $244.80 and told no way to get a refund. Well, we’ll just see about that! I plan to provide Trip Adviser with the following information:
We were at the appointed place on time. I gave the 2 ladies and one young man our names and even checked the handwritten lists myself. At which point we left thinking this couldn’t possibly be our tour. Wrong! It was our group.
Just before 11:00 am we went back to the meeting place and were approached by 2 women from tour groups asking if we were looking for something. We told them our predicament and asked if we could join the group for the museum part of the tour. They did some checking, asked if I remembered what the 2 ladies and 1 young man looked like, and told us to wait at the museum entrance for the 11:30 am tour booking for the museum. We got there 25 minutes early and never saw a group that had these 3 people in it. So, we gave up, bought tickets for the museum, and thanks to Rick Steves and his comments in our guidebook, had a marvelous time touring the museum on our own.
Please enjoy the pictures of some of our favorite statues etc. in the Acropolis Museum.
At 2:00 pm we decided we had seen what we wanted to see, and that a nice cold beer would make everything better. So, we headed back to the Psyrri neighborhood where we were staying to have a bite at the local Turkish restaurant. And even though we may not know what we are doing the first-time round, we can learn. We caught the Metro, and traversed the many levels, line change, entrances and exits like seasoned pros. And soon we were back in Psyrri and ordering a well-deserved meal.
Since ancient times, the Psyrri neighborhood was populated by artisans and you could once find many craftsmen’s shops belonging to potters, sculptors, tailors, etc. In many ways, this tradition continues today, and you can still see many small shops and boutiques selling handmade objects or accessories, as well as art galleries displaying the works of contemporary artists.
For a very long time, Psyrri was not a trendy area. It was mainly a place where people lived and worked, so it did not offer any particular attraction. During the first years following the War of Independence, many people moved to Athens from the countryside and from the islands, and this area became their new home.
This now colorful and vibrant neighborhood received a facelift before the Olympic Games in 2004 and is now considered “gentrified”. Filled with fashionable bars, hip restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife, Psyrri is a fun area to explore by day or by night.
Granted, you won’t find museums or ancient monuments to visit while you are in this area, but Psyrri certainly has a lot of sights that attract hundreds of visitors.
For us, Psyrri’s most striking feature is that it truly is a real open-air street art gallery. Covered walls, store and house facades, parking lots and everything in between. Graffiti is everywhere in Psyrri. From colorful murals covering an entire facade to small doodles, you will find it all. While some have no artistic value, others convey a message or adorn the walls with a sense of beauty. And of utmost importance – WE LOVE IT HERE!
After our tall beers and some wonderful Turkish food, we came back to our room to relax, read, write, and do a bit of research for tomorrow’s fun filled adventure. We are going to see the sights from the open-air top level of a Hop On Hop Off bus. We have used these buses before and have always enjoyed the ride. So, if all goes well, we will be able to find one of the stops and our printed tickets will be valid. After today’s fiasco, anything is possible. But regardless, we are loving our time in Athens. Well, that’s all for now. It is cooling off nicely and I think I’ll go join Andy on our private balcony while we wait until we are hungry enough to even consider dinner. And as far as weather goes, it’s been warm, but not enough to cause us any inconvenience. And our room is air-conditioned.
After hanging around our room for a while, we decided to head out at about 8 o’clock for dinner. Since we had eaten a late lunch, we decided a couple appetizers would be perfect. And since we had dined at the Turkish restaurant for lunch and been told there would be live music that evening, and Andy was craving saganaki anyway, we returned there for dinner. The appetizers we ordered (saganaki, tzatziki, and cheese croquettes) were OK, but they were not as good as we had in Turkey and not as good as I can make at home. So, that was a bit disappointing. What wasn’t disappointing however, was the live music, the ambience, the people watching, the dancing, and the general joy de vie.
The music consisted of a drum and bass track, a live keyboard player/singer, a live bouzouki player/singer, and a live lead singer. The bouzouki player and lead singer were fabulous. The keyboard player was OK, but then I’m kind of spoiled when it comes to keyboard players. But the overall effect was of a fun and musically talented group.
When we got there, and after the first song we heard, we clapped for the group. We were the only ones clapping. But after that, others joined in, and the musicians seemed to be very pleased and grateful for us showing others the way to show respect and curtesy to any musician or group of musicians who are playing good live music well. And several songs later, they played the theme song from the movie Zorba the Greek. Well, that brought out the dancers. Right there on the street, where occasional cars, small trucks, and motorcycles seemed to think they had a right to the street too! But first I need to set the stage a bit.
It is not at all unusual, on very narrow side streets and alleys, for there to be dining tables on both sides of the street or alley. So, waiters and the dining public tend to feel they have first rights to the area. Cars, etc. are mainly just an inconvenience that must be dealt with. So, when a few people decided to participate in the circular line dance popularized by the Zorba soundtrack, and I associate with the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding, everyone was clapping and enjoying the show. It was truly a magical moment to be even a small part of that scene. People of all walks of life (foreigners, visitors like us, children, waiters, etc.) sharing a special time on a lovely September evening.
At about 9:30 pm, with people waiting for tables, we decided to give up our spot and head back to our room. What a grand experience that I hope I will remember for a very long time to come. Greece is just a fabulous country to visit.
Friday, September 15, 2023 (The National Archaeological Museum)
Woke up after kind of a restless night for both of us. But we had plans for today and wanted to get going at a reasonable time. So, at about 10:00 am we were out the door and off to where we knew was the closest Hop On Hop Off point. We just missed a bus and the next one didn’t come for about 45 minutes. (They are supposed to come every 15 minutes. But in the crazy traffic in Athens, I’m surprised they can get around as quickly as they do.) So, we waited and waited, and finally one arrived. Completely full and for several stops we both were standing. When we got to the stop for the Acropolis, we finally got seats and we could relax on the covered upper level until we could get off at the stop for the National Archaeological Museum. Our destination for today.
But fate was not with us, because even though the driver verbally named the stop, there wasn’t one and therefore we missed our chance to escape. So, we got off at the next stop, luckily only a few blocks away, and hoofed our way to the museum.
Now this is one of the most prestigious archaeological museums in the world and houses some of the most important artifacts from a variety of archaeological locations around Greece from prehistory to late antiquity. And worth every tired bone in our feet, legs, and lower back.
But knowing our limitations, after about 3 hours, we were out the massive doors and headed back to catch yet another crowded Hop On Hop Off bus. At least we got seats. But this bus did not have a cover, so we sweated through 3 stops until we were finally released just a few blocks from our guest house. But first a beer! Then back for Andy to read and me to catch up on my trip report. But now it’s time for dinner. So, to be continued.
This evening we were smart enough to ask the lovely young lady in the bar, guest house reception area, coffee shop, breakfast café, cab reservations, directions to Metro, etc. (you name it, they can help you) for the name of a great restaurant in the area. She directed us, literally with written instructions, to Karamanlidika. Which turns out to be affordable and served amazing food. With an “on the house” tiny plate of pastrami and cheese and an after dinner “on the house” small plate of yogurt topped with a sweetened topping containing carrot. What? Something that delicious mainly made with carrots. Can’t be. But our server assured us that the orange stuff in the marmalade like concoction was indeed the lowly carrot.
And our Greek salad and entrées had been fabulous. I had kefke (large meatballs) and Andy a ground steak (beef and lamb) that neither of us could finish. And we hadn’t even had lunch. Amazing food. And as it turned out, the food was Turkish rather than Greek. And from the Cappadocia region of Turkey. One of our favorite places on earth. Never heard of Cappadocia? Look it up. You won’t be disappointed.
Then back to the guest house to pack for a 9:00 am departure from this amazing guest house and the city of Athens. Except for all the people, cars, motorbikes, buses, and trucks of every shape and style, this would be a perfect place to live.
Saturday, September 16, 2023 – Anavalos Hotel – Kiveri
With a little help from my friends (back to the Beatles again), Marina at our guest house on Friday morning had ordered a taxicab for us for 9:00 am Saturday morning. We left this wonderful establishment with mixed feelings. We were eager to see new and exciting parts of Greece and to leave this busy city behind. But it was a bit sad to say goodbye to the wonderful people at the guest house. They were so helpful and kind to not only us, but every person with whom they came in contact. They had a plaque by the bottom of the stairs up to our room that read “May the next pandemic be love”. That pretty much says it all about this place. Everything was earth friendly, from the bamboo straws to the sources of the food they served. So, we were sad to leave, and they seemed sad to see us go.
But promptly at 9:00 am our cab arrived. I would have hugged everyone goodbye, but I had been feeling a cold coming on. Scratchy throat and a bit listless. (I blamed the lethargy on the heat and residual jet lag.) When the cabby asked where we wanted to be dropped off at the airport, we told him the arrival hall. His response – which one? Our paperwork only said that a man with a sign would be waiting for us in the arrival hall. Well, that was not enough for our cabby, so he decided he was going to get this straightened out for us. So, he called our car rental place, and got instructions for how to drop us off at the rental location. This saved us about 30 euros and much frustration. Andy figured that the instructions to meet in the arrival hall were probably a generic statement that appeared on every printed reservation.
So, like I said, with a little help from our friends (this time our taxi driver), we were all signed in and on our way in our brand-new Audi. Stick shift and all. I was actually amazed that they didn’t ask us if we even knew how to drive a a manual transmission. They must have considered our ages and assumed that we probably learned to drive on a stick shift car. And they would have been correct. But that was long ago and far away! Things have changed dramatically. This car tells you when it’s time to manually shift gears. And you really don’t have to remember to turn your lights on or off. This car does it for you automatically. We noticed this first when we went through a tunnel. Andy was looking for the lights lever, and the lights were already on. And you should hear the fuss the car makes when you forget to buckle your seat belt. And God help you if you inadvertently lock your steering wheel. We had to ask for help with that one. Thus, the consequence of Andy not having buckled up and the car alarm going ballistic when we started rolling down the road. You’d have thought we had just committed an egregious offence. But it’s all in the learning process. And all this fun just on the first day with this car. I can’t wait until later when we take the car up hill and down. (Actually, yes, I can!)
But on the roads, the signage (so far) has been marvelous. We couldn’t have gone wrong unless we had tried to miss a turn. And one of the many features of our drive today was crossing the Corinth Canal.
According to theculturetrip.com (and I paraphrase) “The Corinth Canal is a waterway that crosses the narrow isthmus of Corinth to link the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf. As such, the canal separates the Greek mainland from the Peloponnese, turning it into an island.
The Corinth Canal is an important navigational route which once allowed ships to enter the Aegean Sea. Dug through the isthmus at sea level, the canal is 6.4 k long with a width of only 25 meters. Impossible for modern ships to go through, the canal has now lost any significant economic importance it once had. The canal, though executed in the late 19th century, had been a 2000-year-old dream. Before its construction, ships in the Aegean Sea that wanted to cross to the Adriatic or anchor in Corinth, a rich shipping city, had to circle the Peloponnese Peninsula, which would prolong their journey an extra 185 nautical miles.
In the 1830s, the newly appointed governor of Greece after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, was the first to reconsider the idea of the canal. However, at an estimated cost of 40 million French francs, the project was too expensive for the newly established state. It was only in 1869 that the Parliament authorized the government to allow a private company to build the Canal of Corinth. Work began in 1882, but the Austrian company’s budget was insufficient for the task. So, the project was paused, with it restarting in 1890 by a Greek company with a capital of five million francs. This time, the job was completed, and the canal was used for the first time on October 28, 1893.”
Andy had mapped our route so well, and had all the details in his head, that we arrived early at our hotel. And what a place this is! Absolutely beautiful. A gorgeous room with a perfect view of Argolida Bay and across the bay the city of Naplio. Below our room is a beautiful swimming pool and further down the hill a short path down to the water if you fancy a dip in the salty Argolic Gulf.
Across the water is the town of Nafplio.
We then found our way around the small village of Kiveri and to a lovely fish restaurant with only 6 or 7 wrong turns. And the fried calamari was fabulous and the setting could not have been more attractive. We were on a high shaded patio with the water basically lapping at the sea wall just below us.
Then back to our room for Andy to take a swim and me to do some writing. My throat is still sore, but with no other symptoms. A little bit tired, but I think that is mainly from the heat.
Then take a nap in our comfy lounge chairs on our deck and off to dinner. Great Greek food and then a bit of a read and an early to bed. This is the life!