Category Archives: VACATION LOGS

SPRING TRAILER TRIP 2021 TO EASTERN WASHINGTON, OREGON, AND THE NORTHWESTERN TIP OF CALIFORNIA

Dear readers,

This is basically a trip log so that Andy and I can remember the fun times we shared when we get to the point where we can’t even remember each other’s name. If you choose to read this, please remember it was written primarily for our own benefit and the benefit of our family and friends. It is definitely not a travel guide, but there are some interesting facts about the places we visited documented along the way. Well, at least of interest to us. And lots of pictures.  

So, pour yourself a nice cool drink, put your feet up, and come along for the ride.

Potholes State Park (SP) – site A-17

April 3rd – Potholes State Park (SP), Othello, WA – site 17

We always plan to get an early start on the day we start a new adventure. This time we were striving to leave our house at or before 9:00 am. Well, we came close. We backed down our driveway at 9:30, which really isn’t too bad for us! Then to the storage facility which happily is only a couple of miles from our home. No problem hitching up the trailer, and we were on the road at 10:20.

After an easy drive through Everett and Bellevue, we existed 405 onto I-90 heading East. Stopped for lunch at Mountain High Burgers in Easton and then back on the road. Arrived at Potholes SP around 4:00 pm. And then the fun began.

For those of you who don’t know us, Andy and I are two of the most mechanically challenged people you could ever hope never to meet. We are fairly clever in other ways, but put a mechanical problem in front of us, and our brains immediately shut down. They can be re-booted thankfully (with time) but only by pursuing the predicament with pure logic. But it takes a while to get to that point.

So, every spring when we arrive in our first camp, we must first clear the winterization from the water lines and then fill the tank of the hot water heater. And every stinkin’ year, we spend at least an hour agonizing over which way to turn the handle so that water will lovingly flow into the tank. (When the trailer is winterized, there is a handle that is (theoretically) turned to the bi-pass position. This prevents any water containing antifreeze from entering the tank and forever leaving it’s indelible mark.) And in case you are thinking to yourself, why don’t these non-mechanical people just take a picture or write down notes on how this process should work? Then next time, no brainer. And you would be so very correct! But the problem is, I did have notes written down. Copious notes, in fact. But they contradicted themselves. And I’m the one who wrote them, including of course, the contradictions! But you need not worry that this situation will happen again. My original notes are now somewhere in a waste-paper facility in Othello. And I wrote out new notes, that if we’re especially lucky, will make perfect sense next year at this time.

But once again, with the help of the guardian angel of non-mechanically inclined folks, we got lucky and the water heater actually had water in its tank when we switched on the button to place the system on GO.

After a simple dinner of dinner sausages, cheezy grits, and salad, it was reading and an early to bed.

April 4th – Potholes SP

I first met my dear friend Caroline (Nabber) when I transferred from the Bellevue branch of Seattle First National Bank to a downtown Seattle department in 1985. We worked together for several years until I transferred to a different assignment within the bank. But we continued to see each other through the Seafirst Chorale which Caroline sang in, I directed, and Andy accompanied. So, we have been good friends for a very long time. Caroline lives close to Potholes SP, so she paid us a visit. And it was like we had never spent time apart.

That’s what is so wonderful about having good friends. You may not see each other very often, but the underlying respect and love never goes away. It can be rekindled with just a simple hello, I’ve missed you. And that’s how it was with Caroline. As if we had just been together the day before. We spent a lovely three hours just reminiscing and catching up on our families. After Caroline left at about 2:00 pm to have Easter brunch with her family, we decided to go exploring.

Now, if you have never visited this part of the state and like I did until a few years ago, felt that the only thing this part of the world had to offer was sage brush, you too would be grossly wrong in your thinking! This area is a geological wonderland. First of all, potholes are really cool. The scientific definition is “a deep natural underground cavity formed by the erosion of rock, especially by the action of water”.

What my eyes perceive however, are pools of water, surrounded by cliffs, rimrock, lakes, and marshes. And inhabited by a variety of waterfowl and the usual dessert denizens. (See pictures below). If this type of geography and its critters interest you and you would enjoy additional information, search under “Columbia National Wildlife Refuge”. And if you’re in the area, do take the time to drive through this amazing wonderland. Allow yourself at least 2-3 hours, because you will want to get out of your vehicle, just to get a 360 degree look at your surroundings, and of course to take pictures.

 

One of the amazing geological formations in the area
A pothole, up close and personal
More potholes
A closer view along with friendly critters
Happy place on such a nice day
The white stuff on shore could either be salt or soda. We guessed soda because this pond/pothole was very near a body of water called Soda Lake. But your guess is as good as ours.

After our delightful drive, it was back to camp, dinner, and reading until we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer. Another great day of travel with a trailer.

April 5th – Potholes SP

Woke up to a beautiful clear day. Had a leisurely breakfast and then Andy went for a hike. I stayed at the trailer and wrote up day 1 and day 2 of our trip, did my 20 minute jazzercize work out, and spent the rest of the time reading.

If you are just getting to know me, you need to know that I am, and have been since I first learned my ABCs, an avid reader. My day simply is not complete unless I get some quality time with a book. And no, I’m not much of a Kindle or Nook kind of gal. I want a paper book that I can hold in my hands. And I know, it would be so much easier to go on vacation with a few books downloaded to my Nook rather than carrying around a filled to the brim book bag. And no, I’m not going to embarrass myself by counting the number of books I brought along with me on this trip. Because I don’t really want to know! Suffice it to say, it’s a lot of books. And I might not finish them all. But it’s ever so much better to have too many books, than not enough. I’m sure any reader would agree with me on that statement. Maybe not on my need for the “real thing”, but that whatever form the book takes, there is no way I want to ever be reduced to reading the instructions on the package of quinoa! (Unless of course, I am preparing quinoa, and then all bets are off!)

View down on to Potholes Reservoir. Andy took this picture while on his hike.
Looking back the other way
More vistas from Saddle Mountain
Still on Saddle Mountain
Notice the blue ski. Who could ask for anything more?

April 6th – Peach Beach RV Park – (next to Maryhill SP and across from Biggs Junction in Oregon via the Sam Hill bridge over the Columbia River) – site 28

Site number 28 (our favorite) at Peach Beach. Notice how the trees are just starting to bud out. On our return we will be once again staying at this RV park. But the leaves will be out and it will be much warmer.
One of the many barges we would see on the river
Always being pushed, never pulled (or as it appears). Turns out it can be either pushed or pulled.

After a nice breakfast we stashed everything inside the trailer that could slip, slide, or be bumped out of place. Then Andy hooked us up and away we went toward our destination for the next 4 nights.

Now we have stayed at Peach Beach RV Park several times in the past because the sites we love are right by the river. The river being the mighty Columbia in case you were interested. And from our big back window we can watch double wide and double long barges being pushed or pulled by tugboats either up or down river. We have speculated that those going up-river are full of fertilizer because all the fields and orchards we passed on our way south from Potholes SP seemed to be just at the stage where fertilizer might start being applied. Of course, this was just a guess. And as with a lot of guesses, according to the following excerpt from the Gorge Connection, we were completely wrong.

“Tugboats that move barges are a vibrant part of the panorama along the Columbia River shores. They support the area economy as well as add color to the landscape.

A tugboat looks small from the shore. One might guess it is 200 feet long altogether when it is pushing or pulling four or more barges. In actuality, a tug with its tow is 84 feet wide and up to 650 feet long, which is longer than two football fields end to end. Eight miles an hour is the speed that tugs usually move.

A tugboat operates twenty-four hours a day, 365 days a year. It is self-sufficient as the systems work together. 55 gallons of diesel and two quarts of lube oil are used every hour by each of the two 1500 horsepower engines. The boat’s brain is connected to seventy-five sensors to ensure all the systems are working properly. The sensors will also detect if any fluids are not at their proper levels and if there is smoke in any compartment. An alarm will signal if anything is wrong.

Electric winches are used by the tugs while hand-cranked type winches are on the barges. 1-1/8-inch cables are used to strap the barges together. Usually, to connect two barges requires six cables while eighteen to twenty cables are required for four barges.

It takes years to master navigating a tugboat. From the wheelhouse, the pilot operates the boat, 45 feet above the water. Thanks to modern technology, new tools have been introduced to help with the job. Some of these tools include global positioning systems (GPS), wind gauges, swing meters, and radar. Part of the company’s network includes an on-board computer and the main office can locate any boat in the fleet at any given time.

Tugs travel along the deep channel of the river. The pilot is aided by buoys, range markers, and GPS to keep the tow in this channel. Water on the Columbia River flows at 300,000 cubic feet per second during spring runoff or heavy rainfall and this rapid current is only one problem a pilot must be able to handle. Other problems include fog, wind, rain, ice, snow, bridges, and dams. Another potential hazard is people on the river. The pilot must always be watchful for activities on the water such as fishing, windsurfing, and pleasure boating which sometimes takes people into the deep channel.

It takes about 48 hours to make the complete trip from Lewiston, Idaho to Portland, Oregon. Eight dams must be passed through during the trip, four on the Columbia River and four on the Snake River. Locks on the dams are a maximum of 650 feet long and 86 feet wide presenting a tight squeeze for a large tow. Eight large floats which are set into the lock wall are roped to a tow when it enters the locks. This keeps the tow in position as it is raised or lowered. The John Day Dam has a lift of 100 feet which is the highest of all the dams.

The primary cargo driven downriver is wheat. Wheat from Lewiston and other upriver locations is brought down to Portland, Vancouver, Kelso, and Longview to be shipped to overseas locations. Barges on the Columbia River transport forty percent of all the wheat produced in the United States; another thirteen percent is transported by train. Four wheat barges will carry 14,000 tons of wheat making river barges the most efficient method of transporting wheat. 560 trucks or 140 railroad cars would be required to carry the same amount.

Wheat is not the only product that is towed on the Columbia River. Tugboat companies also transport scrap metal, wood chips, paper products, petroleum products, and garbage among other cargos. One million gallons of petroleum are also transported by 42-footwide barges. 2.2 million gallons of petroleum can be carried by the jumbo barges which are 84 feet wide and 274 feet long. A jumbo barge carrying that much petroleum is thirteen and a half feet under water.

The barges on the Columbia River have crews which include a captain, a pilot, usually two deck mechanics, and a third man for the largest barges. Six hours on and six hours off is the standard shift around the clock.

Each crew works half of the month. Off-duty personnel call in the day prior to the crew change to learn what boat they are assigned to. They will also be told approximately where the boat will be at noon the next day. The location for boarding may be anywhere between Lewiston ID and Astoria OR since the boats operate around the clock. Arrangements are made by the crew members with each other for the storage and retrieval of their personal cars.” And yes, they totally do not look as large as they really are from shore.

After we arrived late afternoon, we set up camp, enjoyed a safe arrival adult beverage outside in the glorious sunny evening, and shared a quiet evening of reading. And then off to bed. There is nothing like the sounds of trains in the distance to help rock one to sleep. (There is a main East/West line along the river on the Oregon side. And a main East/West line just behind the campground on the Washington side. And we love trains. So, for us it like being sung a lullaby as we drift off to sleep. Lovely.

The fun side of the trailer
The working sider of a trailer

April 7th – Peach Beach

Met the morning at a leisurely pace. Andy decided to go for a morning hike, while I read for awhile and wrote up my travel notes.

Views from above the river at Cherry Orchard

I had told Katie I would fix dinner for our first night together, so I took some time in the afternoon to prep for our evening meal. Then it was back to sitting in my comfy chair outside to watch the barges and various water critters as they maneuvered the calm waters. And of course, to monitor the progression of trains on the opposite shore.

We already knew that today was going to be grand, because we were to be joined by Andy’s sister Katie and her husband Rick for the rest of our trip. We had traveled together on previous adventures, so we knew our time together was going to be very pleasurable.

Andy arrived just as I sat down to read. After grabbing his book, we sat together waiting, not too patiently, for the arrival of the truck and Airstream trailer and its inhabitants. Three of the four we knew very well. But one, Beau, a totally darling orange and white kitten was being introduced to us for the first time. And of course, we were anxious to make this young male kittens acquittance. And he was totally worth waiting for. Of course, it was wonderful to see Rick, Katie, and Juno (their older female cat whom we had know for several years) too, since covid had made us getting together until now impossible.

After they got their trailer all set up, we had dinner. Then it was off to bed for a lovely night of drifting off to sleep knowing the next morning we would wake to more fun and fellowship. Sometimes we become overwhelmed by our luck. Not only are Rick and Katie family, they are also very dear friends. And how absolutely marvelous is that!

April 8th – Peach Beach

After a nice breakfast of bacon, eggs, bagel, granola, and yogurt, we did the dishes and got ready to greet the day and our traveling companions. For us old retired folks, on days we are not traveling to our next destination, we are usually ready to present ourselves to the world between 10:00 and 10:30 am. Now I know what you may be thinking. That sounds like a pretty lazy way to operate. But we both worked for many years. And throughout both of our careers, we had to get up at the crack of dawn. We don’t have to do that anymore, plus WE ARE ON VACATION! So, that means we can be carefree and sleep in as late as we want! And we do!

So, at about 10:30, it was time to move outside with books in hand to await word that our traveling companions were also ready for an adventure. Around 11:30 we made the decision to visit the Maryhill Museum of Art. (For the umpteenth time I might add!) But we all love the museum, so off we went.

The museum is situated on a bluff overlooking the eastern end of the Columbia River Gorge. The structure had originally been intended as a mansion for entrepreneur Samuel Hill (1857-1931), and named Maryhill for Hill’s wife, the daughter of James J. Hill, a Great Northern Railroad baron. The mansion was intended to be used as a home where they could entertain Samuel Hill’s school friend King Albert I of Belgium.  

Unfortunately, construction was halted with America’s entry into World War I. The unfinished building was dedicated on November 3, 1926 by Queen Marie of Romania, and was opened to the public as a museum on Sam Hill’s birthday – May 13, 1940. The mansion/museum’s first physical expansion was completed when the Mary and Bruce Stevenson Wing opened to the public in May 2012. The museum currently includes a plaza overlooking the Columbia River, an education center, a collections suite, a café, and a splendid little gift shop.

Even though the museum is quite small, it includes a very eclectic collection. Included are plaster and bronze sculptures and watercolors by Auguste Rodin, Native American art including baskets and beadwork from the Columbia Plateau region, mannequins and replica stage sets from the Theatre de la Mode, more than 300 chess sets from around the world, Eastern Orthodox icons including some donated by Queen Marie of Romania, palace furnishings and personal items that once belonged to Queen Marie, memorabilia associated with the dancer Loie Fuller, and Art Nouveau-era glass by Emile Galle, Rene Lalique, and several others.

If you are ever in the area, this museum is a wonderful place to spend a couple of hours. After leaving the museum, Andy and I had a fun treat to share with Rick and Katie. For more information about this very interesting and unique museum, give it a search on line.

Several years ago when we were in the area visiting daughter Ursala, her husband Soroush, and their two daughters Nika and Jaley, we learned about a farm open to the public where we could observe rare animals. The first time we visited this farm, it was such a timely opportunity for us, because we were just back from South Africa, and were missing the exotic animals we had come to love. So to find a farm in Washington State, where we could view zebras, giraffes, bison, camels, Black Buck antelope, Muntjac deer, and yaks, to name a few, in large outdoor enclosures, was very exciting for us. Plus the farm was free to anyone who wished to view these delightful animals. So of course we had to share this treasure with Katie and Rick. And as luck would have it, the giraffes and zebras were out in all their splendor, as were the antelope and camels. For more information, visit schreinerfarms.com.

After we said goodbye to all the animals, we headed back to our trailers for a relaxing afternoon of reading. Just before 4:30, Rick and Katie joined us to bask in the sun and spend a bit of time watching the barges going up and down the river. Then into Rick and Katie’s trailer for a lovely dinner of mushroom soup, salad, and olive rosemary bread. Then back to our trailer for a nice read before bed. Another lovely day in our trailer.

An interesting fact about the Columbia “river” in front of our camp. It isn’t technically flowing. Because of the many dams on the river (11 in Washington State alone, of which 3 share a border with Oregon), the only free-flowing section of the river in Washington is approximately 51 miles upstream in the Hanford Reach area. Named Hanford Reach after a large northward bend in the river’s otherwise southbound course. This area of the river is also distinctive because it was the former security buffer surrounding the Hanford Nuclear Reservation. And as such has been untouched by development or agriculture since 1943. The rest of the river is basically comprised of lakes.

April 9th – Peach Beach

After a very lazy begin to our day, we sat outside reading and watching the barges go by, both upstream and downstream, until around 2:00 in the afternoon, when we made a sojourn to a local winery for a bit of sipping. Luckily, the winery (Jacob William) is only a 15 minute drive from our camp site. And Andy, Rick, and Katie all enjoyed the tastings. I just went along for the ride because a few years ago wine started upsetting my stomach (wah) so I leave all the wine drinking in our family to Mr. C! (Boo hiss) Anyway, it was a fun adventure and just about as much fun as we could collectively handle.

That’s the wonderful thing about camping whether it’s tent camping or going the soft route by pulling a small home behind your truck. There’s lots of unplanned time. And nothing says you have to get up early, go to bed early, or serve your meals at any fixed time. If you choose to be highly energetic – great. You want to sit in your comfy chair all day long – who gives a hoot? It’s holiday time! So, no pressure. And I take my time away from home very seriously. I don’t care if it’s 9:00 am and I’m still dozing. Breakfast will be served when I’m good and ready. There are always things to munch on if Mr. C. gets peckish. And he knows that as soon as I am up, in short order, there will be a full breakfast set out before him! (He is ever aware that he will never starve as long as I’m around!)

So, all together, April 9th was a very fine day.

April 10th – Ft. Stevens SP, Hammond, Oregon – site L32     

Our large and lovely site at Fort Stevens
We went on a nice walk down to the beach after we got our trailer all set up. Beautiful day on the coast.

Great travel day. We had sun, clouds, rain squalls, hail, and a ton of wind that seemed to take delight in buffeting our truck and trailer about as we traveled from Peach Beach, across the mighty Columbia at Biggs Junction, and then West on Oregon I-84 towards Portland and our next destination – Fort Stevens SP in Hammond, Oregon. (Think Astoria.) We were very excited to stay at this park, because it would be a new camping experience for us. And we always like to explore new and different places to park our trailer.

Basically, to get to the park, you go to Astoria, then head south over the New Youngs Bay Bridge, and take the first right you come to. Then follow the line of trailers. At this point, signs are pretty much unnecessary. But it’s still nice to verify that you aren’t following a driver who is totally lost! So, signs are always a blessing even though they may seem a bit redundant at times.

Took a nice little walk through camp after getting set up. No sign of the clouds, etc. that we had experienced on our drive. That was definitely OK with us!

After our walk and afternoon reading, we had a grand dinner prepared by Katie, then back to our trailer for more reading and lights out.

April 11th – Ft. Steven SP

Woke up to sunshine. An absolutely beautiful day. Not warm, but with only a sweatshirt jacket I was warm enough to leave the comfort of our truck and visit several sites around this huge park.

Fort Stevens was once the primary military defense installation in the three-fort, Harbor Defense System at the mouth of the Columbia River (Forts Canby and Columbia in Washington were the other two). The fort was in service for 84 years, beginning during the Civil War and closing at the end of World War II.
Today, Fort Stevens has grown into a 4,200 acre park offering exploration of history, nature, and many recreational opportunities. Camping, beach-combing, a historic shipwreck, freshwater lake swimming, trails, wildlife viewing, and a historic military fort make Fort Stevens a uniquely diverse park. The park also boasts a network of nine miles of paved bicycle trails and six miles of hiking trails that allow you to explore a variety of habitats including spruce and hemlock forests, wetlands, dunes, and shore pine areas. Coffenbury Lake has two swimming areas, a picnic area, restrooms, and a boat ramp. Two neighboring, smaller lakes are great for fishing and canoeing.
Throughout the year, you can browse through displays ranging from the Civil War to World War II at the military museum and information center, walk through the only Civil War era earthen fort on the west coast, or explore the many turn-of-the-century, concrete coast artillery gun batteries.

For those of you who might wish to visit this beautiful state park, here are a few statistics:

Approximately 170 full-hookup sites
More than 300 electrical sites with water
Six tent sites with water nearby
15 rustic yurts (seven pet-friendly)
11 deluxe cabins (five pet-friendly)
Hiker/biker sites

As you can see, I was very happy to be by the sea, loving the heck out of the sunshine, and smiling at the man who makes my life so wonderful.

After viewing all of the areas of the park that interested us, it was back to camp for lunch. After lunch we drove into Astoria to visit the RiverSea Gallery displaying and selling contemporary works of art. This is definitely a destination gallery presenting original art and fine craft by established artists of regional and national recognition, and emerging artists of note. Very much worth visiting if you are in the area.

Then back to camp and a nice bike ride around the park for Andy, and for me, the donning of my favorite trailer apron to prepare dinner for the 4 of us.

April 12th – Cape Lookout SP, Tillamook, Oregon – site C 47

Nice site in the woods. Quiet too.
Rick and Katie’s site right next door
Oh, we ain’t got a barrel of money. Maybe we’re ragged and funny. But we’ll travel along, singing a song – side by side. (Sing along if you’d like.)

Lovely morning. Bright sunshine filtering into our trailer set deep in the woods. After a leisurely breakfast, we broke camp at Ft. Stevens and headed further south on scenic US Route 101 towards our next destination.

Some interesting facts about U.S. Route 101 in Oregon. It is a major north–south U.S. Highway in Oregon which runs through the state along the coastline near the Pacific Ocean. It runs from the California border, south of Brookings, to the Washington state line on the Columbia River, between Astoria, Oregon and Megler, Washington. And in case you don’t happen to know where Megler, Washington is located, it’s a small unincorporated community up-river from the Astoria-Megler Bridge on the Washington side.

The bridge itself is a wonder to behold. It is a steel cantilever through truss bridge that spans the lower Columbia River. It opened in 1966 and it is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America. The total length is 21,474 feet and the clearance below is 197 feet. Quite the point of interest (and a little daunting to drive) as you begin the southbound Oregon US Route 101 experience. But if you have not ventured to this part of the world, it is worth the trip just to cross this bridge. It is truly an amazing engineering feat. But back to todays’ drive to Cape Lookout SP.

After driving around Netarts Bay we headed east towards our destination. Now no one could ever say that this park is too close to a main highway. In this case, the main highway being US Route 101 and at least 10 miles from the park. The road meanders up and over headlands, through forests, ever twisting and turning towards its destination. But we finally arrived all in one piece. And happy to be seeing this delightful park for the first time. After setting up camp we had some lunch and then walked down to the beach. A nice flat walk in perfect weather.

Rick and Katie have dear friends that have a 2nd home in Oceanside just a few minutes from our campground. Oceanside is not really what I would call a town. More of a beautiful little village with a couple of small grocery etc. stores and a restaurant or two. No gas station and I don’t believe there is even a church.

Many of the homes are built on steep hillsides, so much so, that I felt we were back in South Africa where in many small towns along the east coast, there are beautiful homes on hillsides which can only be reached by driving down very narrow dead end streets. And sometimes, up very steep driveways. (Happily, not in this case.) Stan and Judy’s home was the last residence on one of the many narrow driveways. (To call this access a “road” or a “street”, would be presumptuous!) But, oh what a fabulous view from their home. We sat out on the deck for about an hour until the wind came up and we were all getting a bit chilly. Then it was inside to dine on a lovely Greek themed dinner.

After spending a lovely evening with these wonderful people, it was back to our trailers for reading and relaxing before lights out.

April 13th – Cape Lookout SP

Leisurely morning lazing in bed, then a full breakfast and a discussion of what we would like to see or visit today. That is always half the fun of traveling. Wherever we go, unless we have planned our every move down to a gnat’s eyelash, we have a discussion over breakfast regarding the day’s agenda. Well the unanimous decision today was to meet up with Stan and Judy again, and the 6 of us would visit Cape Meares together. When we arrived at the parking area, it was just a short walk to the lighthouse with several fenced in outcrops which gave us perfect views to the surrounding cliff faces and the haystacks just off shore. The lighthouse, which began operating in 1890, looked just how a lighthouse should look.

Katie meets a lighthouse
From the left, Judy, Patti, Stan, and Rick slowly strolling through the area
Katie and me taking the sun and enjoying the beautiful surroundings
Just amazing vistas

But what was of great interest to all of us, was the “octopus” tree, a 12-foot thick Sitka spruce (age somewhere between 250 and 300 years old). This old guy was magnificent. With its big old limbs and incredible height, it was quite the formidable giant. And as luck would have it, it was absolutely the perfect day to pay homage to this old fellow. The sun beams which found their way through the surrounding trees left beautiful dappled patches on this old denizen of the forest. And I’m sure the sun felt as inviting to this old tree as it did to all of us older humans. We could not have asked for better weather. Or better company.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to get every bit of this tree in one picture.
Another couple of ageless beauties
Two of the grandest people we know. And perfect traveling companions.

Then back to camp for a small lunch, a walk on the beach, dinner preparations, and travel blog writing.

April 14th – South Beach SP, Newport, OR – site F08

Lovely, spacious site
Rick and Katie enjoying the afternoon sun
Loved the open field behind our trailer

We broke camp at a very leisurely pace this morning because we knew our destination could be reached in less than 2 hours. And check out time wasn’t until 1:00 pm. And as with all Oregon state parks, check-in isn’t technically until 4:00 pm. Which, thank heavens, we have never been held to. We have even arrived before the park’s official check-out time and been told that if our spot had already been vacated, in other words the previous campers had already left, we were welcome to park it! So, in all cases, so far, and we’ve been trailering now for over 29 years, we have never been told that we must wait until the official check-in time. Because, the park rangers are not dummies! These rules were undoubtedly set by bureaucrats who obviously had never even been camping, or any realization that you don’t set up camp in 2½ minutes.

So, they have no idea what kind of congestion would occur if 100 trailers tried to check in at the same time. It would create utter havoc. But then, they were probably the same people who ordered the tsunami route in this campground to be closed off with Jersey blocks. Regardless of the big signs everywhere pointing to that very escape route. Truly, there are times when I wonder how the human race has lasted as long as it has. Pure, unadulterated luck, is all I can come up with! But back to the joys of traveling.

Instead of getting right back on State Route 101, we decided to take a scenic route through Pacific City. Lovely ocean vistas, and a new road for us.

We arrived at our site, shared a sandwich, and sat out in the sunshine reading our books. When Rick and Katie arrived, they joined us until it was time to get ready to proceed into Newport for our 6:15 pm reservation at Local Ocean, one of our favorite restaurants. Then back to camp for ginger cookies and Scotch. Lights out about 10:30. Another wonderful day in paradise.

April 15th – South Beach SP

Again, a relaxing morning with no pressure. Well, maybe a bit of pressure. I had brought a bit of my sourdough starter along for the ride (and so it wouldn’t die while we were away for a month), and it was high time I used the discard and gave my tiny yeasty guys something to eat. So, I made sourdough pancakes for breakfast. Sourdough starter, an egg, a bit of milk, and Krusteaz pancake/waffle mix. I wasn’t quite sure this would all work out, but OMG – these were some delicious pancakes. So, once again, I skated through a new recipe by the skin of my teeth!

Then after getting the kitchen cleaned up, I made a marinade for the flank steak Andy would be grilling that evening for our dinner. As accompaniments – Savory Israeli Couscous with Shiitake Mushrooms, and sautéed fresh asparagus.

Then into town for a bit of grocery shopping and a visit to Ace hardware and home again to read in the sun.

But we can only be slugs for so long before one of us gets antsy. So, we climbed in Rick and Katie’s truck and headed for Beaver country. Since it’s still April, and all of the marshy areas are still mucky, we couldn’t go for the walk we planned, but instead took a short walk in the Mike Miller Education woods. Short, but at least we got some exercise. Then back to camp for a small lunch, writing for me, and reading for the others. I love vacation.

Let’s follow this path. Right!?!?
A little too wet to navigate through this area. And no sign of beavers. Sigh…….

April 16th – South Beach

Woke to another glorious morning. Sunny, light breeze, absolutely pleasant. Slow start to the day. No real plans except to go to the aquarium. But first Rick and Katie went into town to do some laundry, Andy headed out for a beach walk, and I stayed around camp to read and do some exercise. I over-achieved at the reading part, and slightly under-achieved at the jazzercise part. (No fun without the music and of course I had forgotten to bring my Fat Friday CDs along with me.) But at least I got some exercise in before I turned completely into a slug!

Canoes along a narrow channel on Andy’s walk to the beach
Seal Rock
Sea grass drying in the sun
Then back to camp

Around 2:00 Rick, Katie, and I headed out to visit the aquarium. Sure we did. When we arrived, we were greeted with a sign that required that we show our pre-purchased tickets before we were allowed to enter. What? Last year when we were down here before Covid-19 was declared a pandemic, and a couple of times before that, there had been no such thing as having to make a reservation. But this year, with all the protocols associated with Covid-19, I guess it only made sense that entry would be limited. We had been so tied to our homes this past year that none of us even considered the fact that we might not be able to walk right in. It’s a brave new world in which we now find ourselves. And this had been yet another reminder that things are different now. (Another lesson learned the hard way.)  So we drove around some of the beach areas around Newport and then back to camp.

That evening we enjoyed a beautiful smoked/grilled salmon dinner compliments of Katie and Rick. Then sat around talking in our shirt sleeves until forced inside to avoid further being eaten by mosquitos. This was the first night we had been bothered, but then, this was the first night we hadn’t experienced wind. Can’t have everything. Thankfully, there are screens on our windows, so we can sleep peacefully without the buzz and bites from flying critters. Then early to bed so that we could wend our way South the next morning. Another wonderful day of camping.

April 17th – Bullards Beach SP, Bandon, OR – site A17

I would love to be able to say that the drive along the ocean provided us with delightful vistas, but the entire time we had low fog off the water. So, no wonderful glimpses of waves and beach. We had to rely on our memories of past visits. Of course, it was still wonderful driving through wooded glades, and through towns that we had passed through many times before. That was still wonderful. Like seeing good friends, even if we only see them infrequently. But we sure did miss seeing all the haystacks along the way. They make this beautiful coast so very inviting.

Stopped along the way for fish and chips at Griffs on the Bay Restaurant in Winchester Bay, then proceeded on to one of our favorite campgrounds.

We have stayed at Bullards Beach SP several times over the years. It’s not a fancy campground, but the sites are set well apart and it’s very quiet at night. And of course, as with many of the state parks in Oregon, there are fabulous day use areas attached, so beach walks are close and easy to come by.

So, after arriving at about 2:30 pm, we headed off to the public market to see if we could purchase some cheesecake from one of our favorite vendors – Chubbie Girl Cheesecakes. Yum. The owner makes both savory and sweet cheesecakes, and we’ve gotten kinda hooked over the years. But the market had just opened (that darn covid-19 thing again) and no Chubbie Girl offerings yet. Wah! But never to be distracted from the call of cheesecake, we found some at The Fleet Deli. It’s presently in our freezer waiting for just the perfect time to thaw it out and serve it up. Then back to camp to enjoy cocktails with Rick and Katie until it was time to go to one of our favorite restaurants in this part of the world. Edgewaters restaurant is close to the old town but set at the river’s edge. Good food, good service, and lucky for us, accepting reservations. And I know, most decent restaurants accept reservations, but this was the second restaurant that we had visited, that had only been open a short time to inside dining. The restaurant we had dined in at lunch time had only been open for inside dining for 3 days. And Edgewaters, only since the middle of March (or at least that’s what I think our waitress said). With my diminished hearing and everyone speaking through masks, I sometimes find it difficult to hear every word of a conversation. But I do know that inside dining hadn’t been available for very long.

And it’s not that we go out all that often for dinner when we are camping. But we are on vacation, and after a year of not going out for dinner, it’s like some kind of a rare treat to have someone else prepare our food. (And do the dishes!)

But I can’t complain. When we travel with Rick and Katie, Katie and I take turns cooking dinner for the 4 of us. And what a treat that is, to merely show up, have a drink and often a small appetizer, eat a delicious dinner (Katie is a great cook), then excuse ourselves to go back to our own trailer with a happy tummy and no mess to clean up. We cook our own breakfasts and lunches, but having every other night off from dinner preparation is heaven.

So, after a lovely dinner at Edgewaters, it was back to our trailers for quiet time and for me an early to bed. When we are at home, Andy usually is the one to say he’s heading off to bed first. And then I trundle along after a few minutes. But on vacation, I’m usually the one who gets sleepy first, and the only thing I can think of when my pillow starts calling my name, is blessed horizontality.

Even though the sun never really appeared today, there wasn’t any rain. In fact, when I face timed with daughter Paula in the late afternoon, she told me that drought had already been officially declared for Oregon.

But for us, it was another wonderful day in the glorious state of Oregon.

April 18th – Bullards Beach SP

Still no sun. Well, no sun we could see through the fog, that is. But that never keeps us down. We did what all people who are crazy about oysters do, we drove up to North Bend (about 25 miles north of us) and bought oysters to grill for an appetizer that evening, and a quart of extra small oysters for me to fry up the next night. (Who needs the sun to have fun, when you can buy fresh oysters?)

Then back to camp for lunch. And after lunch, off to get gas, post a birthday card, and visit one of my favorite galleries – Bandon’s Second Street Gallery.

We must always visit this gallery when we are in Bandon. I always seem to find something that absolutely refuses to stay at the gallery. It bugs me until I am forced to take it home with me. I seem unable to refuse! And of course, this year was no exception.  

Our new tile (on the left) now has a home on the shelf over the toilet in our guest bathroom. He definitely seems happy to have a new friend with whom he can now share all the joys of life.

Then back to camp for Andy to take a beach walk and me to catch up on my writing.

Dinner was provided by Rick and Katie – cold salmon, big old salad, and light rye bread. But the piece de resistance of the meal was the appetizer. Oysters on the half shell. Rick had heated them on the BBQ until the little darlings opened up enough for him to further pry open their shells. Then before they could even begin to complain, they were consumed by 4 oyster aficionados.   

Then back to our trailer for reading, writing, and an early to bed.

Before dinner time in Rick and Katie’s trailer. Their new kitty Beau was just as curious about us as we were delighted to be in his presence. A fine addition to the family.
Well we were OK to spend time with until some type of flying insect took his eye. Fickle critters be kittens.

April 19th – Harris Beach SP, Brookings, OR – site A03

Another lovely site

I love waking up late, startled a bit by the fact that we were breaking camp that day, but then remembering that we only had about 80 miles to our next camp. So, no worries. Time to take a leisurely shower, enjoy an unhurried breakfast, and break camp without breaking a sweat! Nice feeling not to be rushed and no pressure.

In past years, before we got smarter (and older), we would plan short stops and fairly long driving days. Since realizing that we aren’t in our forties any longer, we tend to stay longer in one place and try not to have a drive day over 4 hours. Of course, that can’t always be the case. But we endeavor to keep our destinations within a reasonable distance of each other. In Oregon, that’s not a problem because there are state parks everywhere along the coast. Which means, as many times as we have travelled along this route, we still have not stayed in them all. (But we’re working on it!)

So, even with a somewhat late start, we arrived at Harris Beach at about 2:30. Then time to unhitch and proceed into town for groceries and a camping stove. And I know you are wondering why I felt the need for an outdoor stove when I have a perfectly wonderful 3 burner stove in the trailer. Well, while we were in Bandon and I had purchased the oysters to serve for dinner that evening, I had temporarily forgotten what a mess it is to fry oysters. Now, if you have never fried oysters, then you can’t possibly know how much the little coated darlings splatter oil all over the kitchen as they cook. At home, I have a powerful fan and a splatter shield to help eliminate most of the mess. Or I can choose to cook them outside on the burners I have in our outdoor kitchen. But in a small trailer, the thought of oyster grease everywhere was daunting. (Not to mention disgusting!) So, to Fred Meyer we proceeded. No camping stoves there. But two helpful employees in the sporting goods area suggested Bi-Mart.

Now we were not familiar with Bi-Mart since there are none in our area of the world. But both of the helpful gentlemen at Fred Meter ensured us that Bi-Mart had a lot of camping gear, so off we went. Sure enough, they had several stoves from which to choose. And I must say, camping stoves have improved dramatically since the last one I purchased probably 40 years ago. This baby had some real BTUs. So along with coleslaw and sautéed fresh asparagus, we pigged out on fried oysters with lemon aioli. And I must say, I’m pretty sure I have never cooked that many oysters before. So many, that I thought we would be eating leftover oysters for days. Huh! All that was left was the paper towel used for draining the cooked oysters. And Rick even made some comment about eating it too. (The man loves oysters!) As do we all. And because of my new camping stove, no mess or smell in the trailer. And on warm days, I now have a way to cook outside and remain one with nature as I prepare our dinners. Not to mention, one more thing for Andy to pack in the back of our truck each time we take a trailer trip. Good thing he remains such a fine sport in spite of the fact that he gets all the dirty end of the stick duties! He loads the truck with all the camping essentials like camp chairs, hiking sticks, BBQ, golf clubs, extra water etc. etc. He always gives the truck an oil change and makes sure it’s fully gassed and as ready for travel as possible. I  plan, procure, and build the fun things for the trip. Like tasty delicacies to serve at appetizer time, planning the menus, baking cookies and other treats, and deciding which granola to take. You know – the fun stuff. All in all, the division of labor still works with nary a complaint from either of us. (But I really do get the better end of the deal.)

After dinner, it was dishes, and quiet time for reading before our pillows called to us that it was time to lay our heads down for the night. 

April 20th – Harris Beach SP

Woke up to another sunny day. So far on this trip (and yes I just knocked on wood), we have had no rain along the coast. Unbelievable for this time of year, but we’ll take it. Some trips we have taken in March along this same amazing route have found us indoors for days at a time. No problem, because we can always find a good book to read or a game to play. But it can get a bit boring just staring at 4 walls that are really too close for comfort! But we have survived, and I’m sure, there will be other trips with continuous rain for us to endure. But there is just something about Harris Beach SP.

If I am remembering correctly, we have always been able to spend some time outdoors. (And no, not wearing our ski jackets either.) And that’s just wonderful. Because like today, we love to visit the redwoods. It is just so incredible to walk in a redwood grove. The trees are so magnificent. It always reminds me how small and inconsequential I am when surrounded by such majesty.

One of our favorite redwood areas to visit is just over the California border from Brookings. The Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park is one of the most scenic places to observe redwood trees in their native habitat. There’s an unusual amount of variety in the color and texture of the trees, in the size of the trees, and even in the understory vegetation, making the woods an interesting place to walk. The park also has some trees of truly stupendous size: perhaps not quite as tall as the redwoods to the south, but bigger in diameter. With its huge swath of uninterrupted old growth, Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park is truly an unspoiled redwood park.  Our favorite redwood grove in the park is the Stout Memorial Grove Trail. Here the 300-foot trees are considered by many to be the heart of the park. In a short and very easy to walk half mile loop, you can wander through the forest and also get close to the Smith River. A glorious way to spend an hour in the land of giants.

A perfect bench seat
Perfect hiding place
Whole new meaning to being uprooted
Vegetation along the way
Burls anyone?
Wait for me!
One old lady talking to another old lady
Happy trails……..

Then back to camp with a couple of important stops along the way. A happy visit to a California liquor store (no tax on liquor in California), and back in Brookings a stop at the Port of Brookings harbor, for an exchange of US dollars for fresh ling cod and scallops from one of the several purveyors of fresh seafood. An interesting note about this huge and busy port:  

The Port of Brookings Harbor is the port authority for the city of Brookings and the neighboring community of Harbor. The district covers 400 square miles from the mouth of the Chetco River, south to the Oregon-California border, north to the mouth of the Pistol River, and east to the Curry-Josephine county line. It is the busiest recreational port on the Oregon Coast and one of the most active harbors for Chinook salmon on the coast.

Due to the unique south-facing bar orientation (as opposed to most Oregon bars facing due west) and enjoying the protection provided by Chetco Point on the north side of the river, the Chetco bar is more passable than any other in the state.

Chetco Point is a beautiful, rocky, nine acre peninsula where several dozen plant species and wildflowers grow. Vistas from its ridgeline extend a long way, north to Cape Ferrelo and south to Point St. George, near Crescent City, California.

After arriving back at camp, Andy took a beach walk and I spent my time writing up our days’ adventure. At my age, if I don’t write everything down immediately, no memory lingers very long and we would all be left with – we woke, we ate, we drove, and at last, we went to bed.

Then over to Rick and Katie’s trailer for a lovely East Indian dinner of marinated chicken, coconut and squash dal, and steamed pea pods.

Then back to our trailer for reading and writing. Again, a wonderful and sunny day along the Oregon coast.

April 21st – Valley of the Rogue SP, Jackson County, Oregon – site B18

The free-flowing Rogue River just behind our camp
Just a short snooze before it’s time to read or fix drinks

What a wonderful drive from Brookings to our next campground in Jackson County. We basically followed the same route we had taken the day before on our drive to visit the redwoods. So, into California again on 101 and then left onto state highway 197 (North bank of the Smith River), past Jedidiah Smith SP connecting to US highway 199 and north into Cave Junction, Oregon. From there up to Grants Pass, and then on to southbound I-5 (which at this point you are really heading east and up the Rogue Valley).

I should point out that the California border check point station was closed both the day before and today. This was a good thing. Because both sets of travelers had all kinds of fruit that we really didn’t want to sacrifice even for such a noble cause as preserving the integrity of the fruit grown in California. Not only would we not be smuggling mandarin orange seeds to California growers, or a pound of grapes to be turned into California wine, our lemons and limes probably started in California to begin with. And never mind nary a taste of fruit would happen in the short time we would be traveling over California’s sacred ground. But I’m pretty sure had the border crossing been manned, they would have taken all our fruit never-the-less. So, we arrived in camp with our fruit safely tucked away in our Koolatron.

The new love of my life – Sir Koolatron

When we arrived in camp at about 1:15 pm, our camp site right on the river was ready and willing to be occupied. And with such a glorious site and perfect weather, we sat outside (without jackets) and read until we were joined by Rick and Katie for leisurely late afternoon conversation until it was time for them to go into Medford to have dinner with Rick’s daughter Gretchen and family.

We stayed in camp, had a nice dinner of scallops and cheezy grits, and a quiet evening and early to bed.

April 22nd – Valley of the Rouge SP

Woke up to another fine morning. Today was laundry day. So into the fine little town of Gold Hill, Oregon situated along a large bend in the Rogue River. I was prepared for a dingy little village, but was delighted to find a very comfortable little town with an excellent laundromat. After a short time, we had clean towels, bedding, and all the usual clothing suspects all safely tucked into our truck for the short return trip to our camp ground. But first, a few groceries. Found everything we needed at the local Ray’s Grocery, and of course a few things we didn’t really need, but they came home with us regardless.

Then after lunch, Andy went for a bike ride, and I got lost in a book. I should mention that it was really warm this afternoon. Andy was in shorts and sandals, I was in capris and sandals. Perfect day to be lazy. The only thing that caused us to move once in a while, was to reposition our camping chairs to get out of the sun! At about 3:00 pm I decided it was time to do some prep work for the rice dish I was providing for our evening entertaining. There would be 6 of us this evening for a potluck dinner.

Don and Denise, dear friends of Katie and Rick’s would be coming up from their home in Ashland to join us for the evening. For Andy and me, it would be a real treat because we had not seen these lovely folks since we all went on an 8-day burrow trek into the Pasayten Wilderness in August of 1999. And 22 years is a long time not to see friends. So, of course we had a grand time getting re-acquainted.

We were also happy to see Gretchen and her husband Dwayne when they decided to come up from Medford for a late afternoon visit. We hadn’t seen them either for more years than I care to mention. So it was great to re-connect with them too.

So, it was a wonderful day of renewing friendships, spectacular weather, and fine dining on smoked and grilled fresh ling cod, green salad, mixed rice with shiitake mushrooms, and apple pie for dessert. We could not have asked for a more pleasurable day.

(And why I didn’t take any pictures is still beyond my comprehension!)

April 23rd – Valley of the Rogue SP

Woke up to nice weather, but with a promise from the local weatherman that rain was on its way. Maybe not during the day, but definitely paying us a visit during the night. I wasn’t excited to hear about rain in the forecast, but Southern Oregon is experiencing a severe drought, so on their behalf I decided to welcome the rain with open arms.

After a nice breakfast, we decided a short day trip was in order. So we drove the back roads into Rogue River (the town) and then north and north east through the Evans valley. We came out at Table Rock with views of Mt. McLoughlin to the East. Then we stopped at Gold Hill to pick up some street food. Patti – Bentos (jasmine rice covered with teriyaki pork and green onions) and Andy with a Philly Cheese Steak. OK, but not up to our usual rigid standards.

About 4:45 pm we jumped in Rick and Katie’s truck for a short visit to Don and Denise’s home in Ashland. It had been at least 25 years since we had been to their home for a visit, so of course there were lots of changes for us to ooh and aah over. But the one constant that had made a large impression on me the last time we had visited, was Denise’s studio. Denise is a renowned teacher and international artist. She has been teaching workshops and classes for 20 years in the creative arts including monoprinting, collage, mixed media, and book arts. She has presented “Awaken Amplify and Sustain your Inner Artist” with Jean Houston’s Seminars and Women of Wisdom conferences of Seattle Washington. She has been an Artist in Residence at the Horace Mann School of New York. She has been exhibiting and selling her original works since 1985. She is a recent featured artist on Oregon Public Broadcasting’s Art Beat.

Denise is represented by Hanson Howard Gallery of Ashland, Oregon. Her favorite place to teach is in her studio located in a garden setting with the sound of Ashland Creek in her back yard. Animals, birds, and the natural world fill her work with myth and stories. Her work is life affirming.  Denise has a working studio at the Ashland Art Center that is open to the public daily. You can view her new work and works in process. For more information on Denise, visit drawingonthedream.com.

So after a short visit with Don, Denise, and their daughter Amber for appetizers and wine, we left to meet Gretchen and Dwayne at the Belle Fiore Winery for dinner. The winery and restaurant are in what looks like a huge villa set on a hillside surrounded by a vineyard. Breathtaking. Gretchen’s son Brandon is the head chef. So not only did we enjoy a world class dinner, we were treated like royalty. An absolutely delightful dinner gathering. For more info on Belle Fiore, visit bellefiorewine.com. And if you happen to be going to Ashland for a visit, I highly recommend you visit this enchanted place.

Then after saying good night to Dwayne, Gretchen, and Brandon, and leaving the absolutely gorgeous villa behind, it was back to camp for lights out. Another wonderful day in paradise.

(And again, my camera stayed at home in the trailer. Where was my brain?)

April 24th – Valley of the Rogue SP

Woke to the tinkling of rain on our roof. I actually love to be cozy in bed in the trailer and hear the pitter patter of drops gently falling on us. Andy had made sure the night before that our camp chairs, drink table, and Koolatron were safely stashed under the trailer, so no worries there.

After a very unhurried breakfast and a couple of chores in and outside the trailer, we decided a short drive was in order. I had heard that the historic town of Jacksonville, the gateway to the Apple Valley Wine Trail, was worth visiting. And oh my, what a quaint, yet terribly sophisticated appearing little town. Beautiful homes, businesses that looked attractive enough to want to stay a while and visit each and every one of them. And restaurants galore. We definitely want to spend some time in this perfect little village on our next visit to this area.  

After our nice ride, it was time to come back to camp because we were having company for dinner. Gretchen and Dwayne were coming for dinner and Katie had purchased some ground turkey enchiladas, and I contributed beef stroganoff and some of the ingredients for a big old green salad. All-together, a very lovely picnic dinner at our campsite. After dinner, it was dishes, a bit of reading, and an early night-night.

(I have fired myself as the staff photographer! Next time it will be up to someone else to save all these precious moments on film, or disc, or whatever it’s referred to now!)

April 25th – Tumalo SP, Tumalo, Oregon (just outside Bend) – site C-059 (eventually!)

Our site for the first night. Nice enough, but NOT OUR RESERVED SITE! But read all about why we were in this site, NOT OUR OWN, below.
Our second night we were able to park IN OUR OWN SITE!
Great landscape behind OUR SITE.
Rock with no roll – thank heavens!

Snow had been predicted for our run from Valley of the Rogue (north of Medford) to Tumalo via the Diamond Lake Highway over Diamond Lake Summit (5400 ft.) and Cascade Summit (5900 ft.). (This highway passes by the north entrance to Crater Lake if that helps you get a bit more oriented as to where in Oregon we were crazy enough to drive in late April!) But we breezed over both passes with only about 30 seconds of not very serious snow/hail flakes. However, when Rick and Katie were heading down (East) after successfully passing over Cascade Summit,  on an absolutely straight 18 mile stretch of road, they experienced snow on the road and passed two cars in the ditch. Not a wonderful feeling when towing a trailer and you’re traveling downhill. But Rick is an old hand at driving in snow, so he brought them safely into camp.

An hour before Rick and Katie arrived in camp, we pulled into Tumalo SP to find a small trailer in our reserved spot. Now if you have never been camping or made reservations at a campground, you need to know that some type of post with the site number is placed right next to every camp site. And if the site is reserved, there is a large red sign with that indication. So, at our reserved site, on the post, it very clearly stated that the site was reserved. And right across the way from us were 2 sites that were very clearly labeled “open”. Whatever vehicle that had been used to pull the trailer (IN OUR SITE) was nowhere to be seen. So, we located the camp host to explain our dilemma and to ask for assistance. He checked our reservation and then went in search of the trailer’s license plate so he could give the culprits a call. And low and behold, no license plate on the trailer. (Big surprise.) Also, the poachers had not bothered to register and pay their camping fee. Now Buddy (the camp host) was mad too. He called the park ranger.

After a couple of minutes, she showed up and she was more than mad! She wrote them a citation. (Whatever that means!) Meanwhile, we learned that in most Oregon state parks, one site is marked reserved just for situations like ours. So, we were provided with a really nice site. Of course, it wasn’t next to Rick and Katie, but it was only a few sites away. Could have been much worse. Could have been in a whole other loop. Could have been no available sites at all!

Buddy had asked us to obtain the license plate number of the vehicle when and if it ever showed up. But to not get into any confrontation or put ourselves in any kind of awkward position. So, Andy casually walked by the vehicle and was about to write down the license number when a scrappy looking man asked him if he was the park ranger. He apparently was unsure why he had received a citation. (Right!?!?) Andy assured him that he was not the ranger, but that he (the guy with the citation in hand) had parked his trailer in a reserved spot. At which point the man went all “I didn’t know”, and “what reserved sign”, etc. etc. The upshot was, he left the next morning and we moved our trailer to its appointed spot. Of course we will never know the whole story, but my “bullshit” meter was all the way into the red zone when Andy explained how sorry the man was for parking in our spot and how he had just made an innocent mistake. And the reason there’s no license on your trailer? And you failed to register for the site because…..? Anyway, I didn’t let the air out of his trailer tires or hide his power cord, so except for being rather grumpy and irritable for the entire evening, I conducted myself like an adult! Grrrrrr Sometimes I hate being an adult!

But Katie fixed us a wonderful dinner of marinated grilled lamb steaks, oven roasted squash, and green salad with lots of blue cheese crumbles. So along with the fabulous meal that evening and the lovely martini Andy fixed me before dinner, I managed to get back to my normal, fairly reasonable self.

Then a good nights’ sleep. (That always helps too.)

April 26th – Tumalo SP

Woke up early after a really good night’s sleep for both of us. After breakfast we sat around waiting for the people who had stolen our site to leave. Now if it had been me, and I had inadvertently stolen someone else’s site, I would have crept out of camp really, really early before anyone could throw eggs at my trailer. So, when it got to be 10:00 am, I was ready to go knock on their trailer door and ream them a new one. But, fortunately for them, I watched while they had trouble hitching up their trailer. (If it even was their trailer. I have my doubts. Perhaps I’ve been reading too many mysteries. That could be a contributing factor to the suspicions I was having about these folks.) Anyway, we moved our trailer to OUR reserved site (righteous indignation being displayed here) and proceeded to have a wonderful day.

When we were all set up, I did some prep work for tonight’s dinner. I made a marinade for the chicken. I prepared pea salad. And I made the dressing for the mixed green salad I was also planning to serve. After that was all finished, the four of us took about a mile walk along the Tumalo River. Then back to camp for lunch.

Along our walk beside the Tumalo River

Then into the truck for a short drive around the area. Then back to camp to read, write, and finish making the green salad for our evenings’ meal. After that, reading until we could no longer keep our eyes open. Just before lights out we discovered that the sky was clear of clouds and we had obviously paid our moon tax, because from our bathroom, the moon was full and beautiful shining through the skylight over our bathtub. Reason enough to get up for a night call.

April 27thPeach Beach, site 3 (scratch that – we moved to our favorite site 28)

Back in our favorite site
Notice the trees. Since our visit earlier in the month, the leaves were out in all their glorious splendor. What a difference a couple of weeks makes when Spring is in the air!
Mama, papa, and baby swimming just off shore

After a cold night (outside only, our trailer was toasty inside) we woke to blue skies and a terrific day to travel north towards our next destination. All of the mountains were in top form, from Mt. Bachelor to Sisters, from Hood to Adams and even the top of Mt. Rainier could be spotted in the far distance. Amazing. If you have never traveled along 97 from Bend to The Dalles or Biggs Junction, you can’t imagine how amazing this drive is for mountain viewing. And because the air was so clean from the on and off rain storm we had experienced the last couple of days, the vista was better than we had previously experienced. And we had driven this route many times before.

So, even though the drive was fairly short, it was absolutely delightful. Of course there were quite a few truck and trailer combinations on the route. But that’s only to be expected because, even though it is a two lane road most of the way, it is a main route from Yakima and the tri cities, to Bend and all of Eastern Oregon.

At one point, the frustration of one of the truck drivers could have caused a massive and probably fatal accident for an oncoming car driver and could possibly even have included us in the fallout from his poor decision. And of course, there had been some road work, and that never helps drivers keep their cool or truck drivers keep to their schedules.

But this one truck driver must have had enough of the truck in front of us leading a long string of trucks and cars behind him. To the lead truck driver’s credit, he was going the speed limit and there really was no place for him to pull over and let others pass. But before we could even realize what was happening, this crazy truck driver was passing us and he barely got back on our side of the road in front of us before smashing into the oncoming car. It was the most reckless demonstration of poor judgement I have seen in a long time. And I’m sure the driver of the oncoming car is still giving thanks to his/her guardian angel for allowing him/her to live to tell the story. And I am sure as heck glad Andy was driving at the time. He remained calm and cool, and simply applied the brakes in a reasonable manner and didn’t panic in the least. I probably wouldn’t have panicked either, but the driver’s side seat might have had to be replaced. It was truly a close call.

But we survived and made it into camp, to find that our favorite spot on the river was available. So, instead of being right next to Rick and Katie in site number 3, we were happily set up just across the road in site 28.

Our evening was wonderful. Not only did the weather cooperate, our daughter Ursala and her husband Soroush brought us dinner. They live in White Salmon, Washington, about a 45-minute drive from our campground. We usually go to their place when we are in this part of the world, but with covid-19 precautions still in place, it made more sense to have them come here where we could eat outside. All 4 of us (Rick, Katie, Andy, and I have all been completely vaccinated, but Soroush and Ursala have only had their first shots, so protocols still needed to be followed.)

But what a glorious place to sit around a table enjoying great food. With the mighty Columbia River right beside us, and the weather agreeable to outside dining, we shared a lovely repast.

After Ursala and Soroush left to go home, we shared an after dinner Scotch (well Andy, Katie, and Rick enjoyed a Scotch) in their trailer. (Had to see their kitties after all.) Then it was back to our trailer for our evening’s quiet time with a good book.

Tomorrow, it’s in to White Salmon to see Soroush and Ursala’s new digs. And to visit granddaughter Nika in her new dance studio.

April 28th – Peach Beach

Woke to blue skies. After breakfast I drove to Hood River to visit some more with Ursala and to see their new apartment. Beautiful. Very cozy and perfect for just the two of them. And right next to the laundromat they own, so they can keep a close eye on things. We talked for about an hour then jumped in our truck and we proceeded downhill to the booming town of Bingen, right at the bottom of the hill and right on the Columbia River.

My son-in-law Soroush had built a beautiful auto body shop, complete with a paint booth, to service the auto repair needs of the people on the north side of the river. But for various health reasons, it became too much for him to handle. After their oldest daughter graduated from college, she was kind of at loose ends, not sure in what direction she wanted to go with her life. Nika is a very intelligent young lady, with terrific academic credentials, but her first love has always been dance. So, she and her dad decided that the perfect use for this large space was to turn it into a dance studio. And it just so happened that Soroush had designed the building to include an apartment on the 2nd floor. So not only does Nika now own and run her own dance studio, she owns a very nice apartment in the same facility. After Ursala and I had visited Nika for about an hour, I decided it was time to head back to the trailer.

The pandemic and all the protocols involved with keeping yourself and those you come in contact with healthy, makes long visits almost impossible. But it was glorious being able to spend at least a few hours with my kids.

When I got back to Peach Beach, I basically spent the late afternoon and evening doing nothing productive. It was wonderful! It was Katie’s turn to cook, so I just sat back and let the evening evolve around me. Isn’t that what’s supposed to happen when on vacation? I think so!

Andy took this picture in front of our trailer just as the sun was rising. Beautiful and calm beginning to his day. (I of course, was still asleep.)

April 29th – Wanapum SP, Vantage, WA – site 49

View from behind our trailer
Nice picnic area
Rick and Katie’s site right next to ours.

I always feel sad when I leave Peach Beach. We have always been lucky enough to get one of the premium sites right by the river. So as the barges go by, different water fowl stroll up and down the beach in front of us, or we watch any number of trains putt along on the Oregon side of the river, we feel totally at peace with the world. But once again, it was time to hit the road for out next to the last destination on this camping trip. (The final destination of course, being our own home.) And what a day to travel! Going north through Goldendale, Mt. Adams was out in all its splendor. And of course, we had to stop at St. John’s Monastery and Bakery for a gyro. (We absolutely cannot go past this amazing bakery without stopping for something.) If you will be traveling over Satus Pass anytime in the future, be sure and stop for espresso or fabulous baked goods or other typical Greek delicacies. The nuns are delightful and the food amazing.

After an easy drive, we arrived at Wanapum SP around 2:30. We set up camp and because it was really warm, just sat outside and enjoyed the quiet and peaceful surrounding. We were soon joined by Rick and Katie, and we spent another lovely evening together laughing too much, eating too much, and reminiscing about friends and family and many of the experiences that led us to who and what we are today. Most enjoyable.

Then we did the dishes, got everything put away outside in case the wind that had arrived after dinner got worse, then into the trailer for reading until our pillows called to us so loudly we could no longer ignore their siren song. Another wonderful day in the wilds of Eastern Washington.

April 30th – Wanapum SP

I really should entitle this day – “not worth mentioning”!

Woke to light rain. But knowing this was our last day to take it easy before heading home, I decided to completely relax and not do a damn thing. OK, I rode with Andy all the way into the sprawling community of Vantage to get gas. (Probably all of 3 miles.) Then we explored a bit within about a one mile radius before heading back to camp. I did take the frozen cheesecake out to thaw about an hour before dinner, so I guess that accounts for a bit of effort. But that was about the sum total of the expenditure of energy I exhibited for the entire day. It was truly wonderful and I have no feelings of guilt whatsoever! (It was Katie’s turn to cook, so I just sat and read and talked with Andy while Rick and Katie did all the work.)

Last night dinner grilled in very windy conditions. But both Rick and Katie persevered.
At one point, even Andy was pressed into service. Grilling in the wind is not an easy task!
Check out the concentration.

There are many reasons why we like to travel with another couple. And right at the top of the list is not having to cook dinner every evening. Now you all know I love to cook. But when on vacation, it’s nice to get a break too. But the main reason we love to travel with these wonderful people is because they are simply grand to be with.  Smart, interested in life, and they bring their cats along with them. (Helps ease us through the terrible pain of kitty withdrawal.) Oh, don’t get me wrong, we still miss Miles and Max, but being able to pet and watch Juno and Beau bounce off the walls of the Airstream, reduces our suffering considerably.

After the wonderful chicken sausage, grilled veggies, rice (for Andy), and potato salad (for the potato lovers in the crowd) dinner prepared for us by Katie and Rick, and of course the grasshopper cheesecake for dessert, it was back to our trailer for reading and an early to bed.

June 1st – Chez Carr

After a big old breakfast of sausage links, fried eggs, half a bagel each, yogurt, and a mandarin orange, it was time to clean the trailer, pack up, and head for home. So, with all accomplished in a timely manner, we were on the road home by 10:45 am. We said a quick goodbye to Rick and Katie with assurances that we would be seeing them in July when they came over to Seattle for birthday celebrations. Then with me behind the wheel, we started our long climb out of Vantage and back to our comfortable home on Camano Island. After a short stop for gas and a burger in North Bend, we were back on the road for the final leg of our trip. We arrived at our storage facility at about 3:45 pm. Just as we were getting the trailer backed into our spot, Andy received a text from Mark inviting us to dine with Vicki and him that evening. Of course we said yes, because we were eager to see them and after unpacking I sure wasn’t going to be in the mood to cook dinner! Plus, we wanted to hear all about what had been happening on the home front. So, we schlepped the refrigerator and freezer food, our toiletries, and a few cloths home and left the rest for the next day.

I always seem to end my travel logs by writing about how much I love seeing all the amazing sites that this wonderful planet of ours has to offer. But more than ever, with the past year of pandemic related trauma and the general chaos it engendered, I more than ever appreciated how lucky I was to be able to leave my home and witness all kinds of beauty first hand. And I was also reminded how much responsibility each and every one of us must absolutely now assume to keep our world from turning into a scorched planet. It simply must begin with each of us if we want future generations to experience what a lucky portion of us have always taken for granted. Like clean air, outside temperatures that our bodies can manage, drinkable water, a roof over our heads, and enough food to support healthy bodies. And these are just the basics of life, not superfluous niceties.

Please endeavor to be part of the solution. Let’s all work together to keep our planet alive and well. And work towards making life better for everyone everywhere.   

I hope you have enjoyed reading about our travels. Andy and I are so blessed. Blessed with good health, good friends, a wonderful family, and all the happiness and joy we can stand. May you too be so blessed.

Peace and love to all.

SEPTEMBER 2020 TRAILER TRIP – EASTERN WASHINGTON

Holy smoke! What happened to the river?

Sunday, September 13, 2020 – Wanapum State Park (S.P.), Vantage Washington (site 17)

Once upon a time, there was an older couple who lived in a nice home with an expansive view of salt water, mountains, trees, and sky. That is until wild fires starting burning all up and down the Western part of the West coast. While we could still see the trees planted in our own yard, we couldn’t have proven to anyone that there was water, mountains or even sky visible from our home. We could see the sun however as we were backing down our driveway shortly before noon. It was bright orange. This was how life was at our place just before we went to hook up our trailer and start on our journey.

Our hope was that once we left Western Washington, the smoke would lift a bit and we could once again enjoy this beautiful state park on the banks of the Columbia River. Well good luck with that idea. When we arrived at the campground, and our well-chosen site next to the river, there was no river to be seen. After all, it was a good 80 feet to the river edge. (I know, sarcasm and cynicism don’t become me, but I have to tell it like it is!) Hopefully before the three days are up, we will at least catch a glimpse.

The drive over had been OK, but everywhere the hazy smoke filled the air. It was a bit better at the top of Snoqualmie pass, but not enough to make a never mind.

There’s a river there, really there is. And it’s a big river too. And it’s wide. Really wide. (Because of Wanapum dam.) And usually it’s delightful to simply sit by the river and watch it flow to who knows where. Let yourself imagine that the water will someday become part of the Indian Ocean or pass close to the Cape of Good Hope. Lovely way to let your mind drift along with the water.

Anyway, to quote one of my favorite radio characters from my childhood, Chester A. Riley, what a revoltin’ development this is! Here we are in one of our favorite parks and it’s still smoky. Not a little bit smoky, but really smoky. So much so, that we can’t even open a window smoky. But all is not lost. We are here with Andy’s sister Katie and her husband Rick. And it is really great to see them. So social distancing, and staying outside, we enjoyed a before dinner drink, great conversation, and then a lovely dinner prepared by Katie. Then an early to bed. Still no windows open, which is very different for us. We usually have at least 3 windows open in our trailer even on the coldest of days. OK, not wide open, but at least cracked a bit. Perhaps the smoke will have lifted a bit with the start of a new day.

Monday, September 14, 2020 – Wanapum S.P.

Nope! Still smoky and still no sign of the river.

After a leisurely breakfast we moseyed over to Rick and Katie’s Airstream trailer (site 8) for a bit of a visit and to discuss plans for the day. As it turned out, we unanimously decided that the plan for the day was to do pretty much nothing but read, relax, and try to not breathe in too much of the local atmosphere. So that meant no hiking or fast walking (as if we could do that anyway!), but at least for me it was a good excuse not to do any real exercise. (I never turn down an excuse to be lazy.)

So after a comfort-food dinner of meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and salad at our trailer, it was each couple to their respective trailer for quiet time.

Tuesday, September 15, 2020 – Still at Wanapum S.P.

Yep – Still smoky

Ate breakfast, read our books. Ate lunch, read our books and took a walk around our loop. Ate a wonderful salmon dinner at Rick and Katie’s trailer, came home at about 8:00 pm and read our books till lights out.

Wanapum S.P. (site 19) 9/28/2019. The mighty Columbia River in all it’s glory. And smokeless!
Still 9/28/2019 – Looking SE towards Wanapum dam. Even with cloudy conditions we could see for miles. Love this park.

Wednesday, September 16, 2020 – Entiat City Park, Entiat, Washington – site 34

Our campsite at Entiat City Park

Took our time getting ready to depart Wanapum. No hurry because our destination was only about 80 miles away. So after a leisurely breakfast, and hooking up, we walked over to say goodbye to Katie and Rick. We really wished we would be spending more time traveling with them, but hopefully we can make that happen next year. If all works out as planned, we will be visiting them at their home in Winthrop while camped at Chelan State Park. But who knows? It all depends on the wildfire situation.

When we arrived at Entiat, the whole campground was practically deserted. And very, very smoky. Our campsite was right on the river, and at least we could see the river and the far shore.

Spent the day reading and being extremely lazy. After a nice dinner of leftover meatloaf, spaghetti in a light Parmesan sauce, and green salad, we read until we could no longer keep our eyes open. After a peaceful night’s sleep, we awoke to (you guessed it) another smoky day. (I was really tired of smoke at this point.) But at least we weren’t dealing directly with a fire. Or trying to save our home from being destroyed. Or worried about the ravages of yet another hurricane. So in the long run, we were doing OK. And still glad to be seeing another part of our fine state.

Thursday, September 17, 2020 – Entiat City Park

Woke up to, yes indeed, still smoke. So a quiet day reading, eating, drinking fine adult beverages, and enjoying each-others company. We’ve been in love now for almost 30 years. How Andy puts up with me I will never fully understand. But for whatever reason, he still builds my coffee in the morning, and graciously accepts the fact that some time during any given day, I am probably going to ask him the same question more than once. It’s all part of being partners as well as best friends. How truly lucky I am to have him as a partner.

So nothing remarkable to report today. Found a nice fruit stand less than a mile from our camp site. Always wonderful to buy fresh produce. Lots of enjoyment just watching the river run through.

At one point during the day, Andy took a short walk towards where the Entiat River flows into the Columbia. This darling troll was standing guard in an underpass.

Complete with mask. Good troll!

Friday, September 18, 2020 – Entiat City Park

Again, smoke is the theme for the day. But today, we got to spend time with our dear friend Linda who lives in Leavenworth. She arrived around 1:00 pm and we spent the afternoon and evening catching up on our kids, our friends, our hobbies, and all the fun and life we have shared for the last 39 years. Linda reminded me that we have now been the best of friends for almost 40 years. So we decided, that in honor of our lasting friendship, the three of us were going to celebrate by traveling somewhere together next year. I’m already thinking about the destination.

The kind of friendship I share with Linda, is one of the greatest blessings in my life. She has helped me through good times and hard times without ever condemning me, or making me feel stupid or inadequate. She just cares for me. And she lets me feel bad and recover at my own pace. Just there when I need her. No one could ask for a better friend. So anytime I get to spend time with Linda is a blessing. 

Saturday, September 19, 2020 – Entiat City Park

Still smoky but getting better. So we decided to take a driving trip up the Entiat River Valley. First few miles were full of orchards. You absolutely can’t tell from the main road (alt. 97) what you are going to find when you proceed up the river road. From alt. 97 it looks like the river valley is going to remain very narrow. Not the case. However, it never gets really wide either. But it’s certainly wide enough to allow good sized orchards on both sides of the road. As you progress up the valley, more and more trees start to appear. At least what’s left of the trees, that is!  

In July 2014, lightning sparked a fire in the pines, firs and hemlocks of the upper Entiat River drainage. The Duncan Fire began on a ridge between the Entiat River and the North Fork Entiat River, spreading east, burning 12,000 acres. Almost exactly one year later, lightning caused a fire on the south shore of Lake Chelan. The Wolverine Fire moved south, slowly at first, but eventually reached the burned area of the Duncan Fire, scorching a total of 65,000 acres.

Those fires prompted the closure of several campgrounds and recreation areas in Entiat Valley forest lands.

As we drove along it was interesting to see new cottonwood trees springing up everywhere. Some were at least 6 feet tall. So the forest was beginning to re-seed itself. But there were still masses of trees with no green and lots of black, sooty bark.

It was an interesting drive, and I’m glad to have seen it. But it was hard to witness all that devastation. I was glad to get back to our camp site. And to skies beginning to get cloudy and stormy looking. I don’t think we had any hard rain, but there was enough breeze to clear the skies.

Sunday, September 20, 2020 – Chelan State Park, Chelan, Washington – site 10

Woke to sunshine and a clear day. After a lovely, lazy breakfast, we left our campsite at about 12:15 pm under a mostly blue sky. A few puffy clouds here and there, but warm and pleasant. And – clear air. What a treat.

Clear skies – FINALLY- and of course the morning we are to move camp to Chelan S.P.
Looking down river from our campsite
Looking North along the trail that runs in front of the camp sites.

I’m not sure we have ever in almost 30 years of pulling a travel trailer, had 2 campsites with so few miles in-between. I think our whole time in the truck was under 40 minutes. So maybe 30 miles. Now that was a treat too. Usually we try to keep the miles to under 250 a day. But even at that, which is a short travel day when you are in a car, 250 miles is a whole different matter when you are towing a trailer. It’s not like just jumping in your car and blasting your way from point A to point B at 70 miles an hour. First of all, you can’t use cruise control. So your right leg can start to get pretty tired especially if your drive is up and down mountainous roads. Luckily we both feel comfortable puling a trailer, so we take turns. And we change drivers often. Also, pulling a trailer is like riding a motorcycle. It’s truly defensive driving at its finest. Full on complete attention to the road. And no letting your mind drift at any time when you are behind the wheel. But today, we felt like we had arrived before we had even gotten started. It was a delightful change of pace. And one that we plan to emulate in the future.

So after getting all set up, resting a bit, enjoying a bite of lunch, we drove into Chelan for some re-provisioning. We were out of peanut butter! An unacceptable circumstance. And one that needed our immediate attention.  

Then the rest of the day we read and enjoyed the beautiful weather. I had actually been contemplating baking a small loaf of sourdough bread in my toy oven. It’s not really a toy oven, but I’ve seen bigger play ovens in the kid’s corner of a doctor’s office. But I had baked cornbread the day before with reasonable results, so I thought – why not a tiny sourdough loaf? (And yes, I brought my sourdough starter with me.) But then reality hit me like a 4 day old baguette. What was I thinking? Our trailer is not equipped with a KitchenAid mixer. And kneading even the tiniest amount of bread dough on my kitchen counter would be like trying to turn a 10 egg omelet in a 4-inch frying pan. Not bloody likely and more mess than I care to even imagine. So – no homemade sourdough bread until we get home.

Monday, September 21, 2020 – Chelan S.P.

Lovely campsite with a whole big lawn to watch the sky and critters drift by.
Our new neighbors as seen from inside the trailer.

Lovely morning with almost no smoke. At least we couldn’t see or smell what smoke still lingered in the area. So we decided a drive up into the hills to the East of Lake Chelan would be fun. And it was fun, until we got onto a road (and I use the term “road” very loosely) that was unpaved, un-marked, narrow, steep, and “fall off the side of the mountain” scary. When we got to a junction at the top of the world, there were 2 “roads” from which to choose. Our choice was to turn around. And God help us if we had met a car or truck on that road. The soil was very sandy, so therefore slippery and unstable. Had we met another vehicle, one of the vehicles would have had to back up. I was very relieved when we were back on pavement. Andy decided maybe we should try and find a different route for the next part of our Chelan Butte exploration. Yah think!?!?

You know how T. S. Elliot wrote – “this is the way the world ends, not with a bang, but a whimper”, well that’s how our next try at getting to the top of the butte ended. OK, Andy really couldn’t hear me whimpering, but inside I was in full “whimper” mode! Because, as our first route took us, so did this one. Oh it started out just fine. Paved road, a curve sign here and there, and a nice house or two to trick me into feeling safe. But slowly the road began to disintegrate under our very tires. And of course – no place to turn around. By the time we got to a semi-wide spot in the road so that Andy could actually talk again, I was almost comatose with fear. That bloody path (no way I’m going to dignify it by calling it a road) had an incline of at least 12 degrees. And with each bump my back was screaming at me to abandon all hope and get out and walk! The only saving grace on this stretch of “road” was that there was no ledge to fall over. So plunging to the bottom of a canyon was not happening at least in the foreseeable future. Had we continued further up this double grooved “path from Hell”, perhaps we would have found that undesirable condition a part of this delightful little side trip as well. Thank God I will never have to know.

Anyway, Andy managed to turn the truck around. And ever so skillfully and slowly dropped us back down to the safety of pavement. I almost asked him to stop the truck while I got out and kissed the tarmac. But I wanted away from this area of the world in as short a time as possible. Either I’ve become a wuss in my old age, or we are finding roads that years ago were not open to the public. I’ve chosen to believe it’s not me. I think it’s the environmentalists who have decided that signs don’t keep people out. And that a few good scares will do the job much more effectively. And they are right. All I wanted at this point was to get the hell back to camp. So that’s exactly what we did. While I started dinner, Andy went into Chelan and took a short walk along the river front. (And yes, the walk was paved and flat.) I think both of us had been on enough up and down for the day.

One really great thing about today – we saw three big horn sheep up close and personal.

After dinner a quiet read and an early to bed.

Tuesday, September 22, 2020 – Chelan S.P.

Woke to a beautiful day. Blue sky with just a hint of a breeze and a few clouds just starting to think about becoming anything at all.

Andy took off for a hike and I’ll let him tell you all about it. Presenting Mr. Andy Carr. (Drum roll please……)

Crow Hill

Took advantage of being camped at Lake Chelan State Park to take a rare hike in the Chelan Mountains, far to the east from home base.  The smoke from Oregon/California wildfires had only cleared out from Eastern Washington a few days previously, and a wet weather system was due to arrive the next day; so all in all a fortuitous day for an early Fall high-country outing.

And high country it is, with a trailhead elevation of 6500 feet (one of the highest in the state).  Departed camp 9:30 AM under clear skies, drove back down to Entiat and up the Entiat River Road 29 miles (with a pause at Lake Creek CG), then up forest service road 59 (well graded) for 8½ miles to Shady Pass; then a final 2½ miles on spur roads to the Pyramid Mountain trailhead, arriving 11:15 AM.  No other vehicles on the roads nor at the trailhead.  The alternate approach, starting from 25 Mile Creek on Lake Chelan, is shorter in distance but is 20 miles of unpaved (dusty) road and is reputed to be a white-knuckler.

Skies has clouded up all morning over the mountains, mostly heavy cumulus, making for a nice walking temperature but poor lighting for photography; regrettable since the trail passes through groves of larch trees that were beginning to transition into their autumn phase of golden needles.  I doddered on the downslopes due to knee soreness (the left has been slowly recovering from a strained muscle sustained at the start of the trip), but no problems on the up-slopes despite the elevation.  After dropping to a saddle, the trail climbs gently while contouring around a knoll on the ridge, heading first west then north, occasionally on the track of an old fire break road.  Another saddle is reached at 1½ miles, whereupon the hiker’s route leaves the trail and climbs open grassy slopes to the summit of Crow Hill, 7366 feet.  Arrived at the superb viewpoint and lunch spot 1:15 PM.

There is a small window view of Lake Chelan, 5000 feet below at the base of a silver-forest drainage.  Beyond to the northeast lies the Sawtooth Wilderness, a sea of granite.  Rain shrouded the upper Lake basin towards Stehekin.  To the north, Pyramid Mountain shone in a shaft of sunlight, surrounded by the 8000-foot peaks of the North Fork Entiat headwaters (Cardinal, Saska and Emerald).  Panning left, the approach ridge to Duncan Hill was decimated by the 2015 Wolverine fire.  Unfortunately, westward views to the higher peaks of the Entiat Mountains, and beyond towards Glacier Peak, were completely cloud-obscured.

Retraced route at a leisurely pace, amid more frequent appearances of sunshine.  Back to truck 3:15 PM; to camp 5:00 PM.

Larch trees at trailhead
Larches along trail
Lake Chelan from summit
Pyramid Mountain
North fork Entiat River headwaters
Larch trees in full autumn foliage

Wednesday, September 23, 2020 – Chelan S.P.

Well they said it would rain, and they were right! Nice enough morning, but by 11:00 am I was inside changing into long pants, socks and real shoes. It was getting mighty chilly reading outside under our canopy. But another layer helped and it was back to reading, writing, and relaxing. The three Rs of a great vacation.

At 3:00 pm Mr. C. went on a wine tasting adventure to Fielding Hills. Since my body no longer tolerates wine, he went by himself. And for him, he showed great restraint. Only 7 bottles. (I was impressed!)

Then back to camp for afternoon reading, dinner, and lights out.

FYI: I love to hear the rain at night when we are in the trailer. It’s like listening to a lovely lullaby as we drift off to sleep. And because it’s a trailer rather than a tent – no leaks. And no getting wet during a night call. So no having to get dressed and put on shoes. And grabbing a flashlight so you won’t get lost on your way to the outhouse or camp bathroom. Because at our age, “night calls” come quite regularly. If you are still young, see what you have to look forward to! If you are over 50, then you know of what I speak. Pleasant dreams to all.

Thursday, September 24, 2020 – Chelan S.P.

What a grand day. Woke to no smoke and a fair amount of nice weather. Had plans to drive to Winthrop to spend the afternoon and early evening with Rick and Katie. So that’s just what we did. Nice drive and always a pleasure to spend time with these lovely people. Even if they are relatives. Just kidding. Well not about the relatives part. They are relatives, but we would want to spend time with them even if we weren’t related. I hope that makes sense. Sometimes you just get lucky. And you end up with a sister (Andy’s sister Katie) and brother-in-law (Rick) who are delightful people even if they are relatives. (I better stop now while I’m ahead. If I actually am ahead that is!) Anyway – we had a great time with them and love them dearly. Plus Katie served us a great dinner! Who could ask for anything more?   

Then back in our truck and back to camp.

Friday, September 25, 2020 – home again, home again, rain shadow and all.

Not only did it rain all the damn day, to the point where we looked and felt like drowned rats when we broke camp and left Chelan S.P. at 11:30 am, but it poured buckets all the way home. Well at least until we hit Smokey Point at which point we could see blue skies to the West.

Now I don’t know if you know about or believe in the rain shadow that the Olympic peninsula provides for some of us in the north sound area, but by the time we got to our trailer storage space on Camano Island, the sun was shining and it was dry. So very nice to un-hook, grab a few of the essentials we would need to keep body and soul together for our first night at home, and arrive at Chez Carr at a decent hour.

Of course, nothing ever goes exactly as planned. Our old kitty girl Squeeky, who was my late father-in-law’s cat whom we adopted when he died, was not well. To the point that she was curled up in her cat cave unwilling to even venture out to chew us up one side and down the other for leaving her, albeit in the capable and loving hands of our dear friend Peggy. So I left a message on our vet’s phone to see if we could get her in the next morning.

Plus our septic system was yammering it’s little head off that it was un-happy about something or other and was not going to shut up until we called in someone with more expertise than we had to fix whatever the problem was that was causing the system to rebel. (Never again will I end a trip on a Friday. Getting help on a weekend is really difficult.)

But we were home. And we had a great break, despite wildfire smoke, rain, Covid-19, and the ever present concern regarding the outcome of the November 3rd election.

I truly find it almost impossible to understand how anyone in their right mind could think Trump was worthy of their trust. He cares not one iota for any person other than himself. He doesn’t value honesty, or integrity, or honor. In fact he thinks anyone with these attributes are losers or suckers. What he respects (if you can even call it respect), are people who cater to his every whim, and uneducated white people, especially women, who tunnel vision onto one thing, like abortion, and look no farther. It’s sad. And truly scary. Our country has never been, and will never be perfect. Democrats aren’t perfect, and never will be. Can’t happen. But if we as a nation don’t take immediate action, democracy as we know it will be a thing of the past. And the only thing that will truly help make America great again, is if Trump is defeated.

So now that I’m home, I’m going to preach, beg, plead, and do everything in my power to help my grandchildren and everyone else’s offspring have the same quality of life I have always enjoyed. I’m going to preach the brotherhood of man, I’m going to beg people to vote for a future where science and education are valued, get down on my knees and plead with people not to narrow their scope to one issue, but rather look at the full picture. And then I am going to vote. I’m going to use my voice to let the current politicians in Washington D.C. know that not everyone cares just about themselves. That there are people like myself who want a better world for everyone. Who don’t care what color someone’s skin is, or who they choose to send their prayers to, or what their sexual persuasion happens to be. I want Washington to know I’m too busy living my life to worry about someone who happens to be different than me. I simply want someone in office that cares about justice for all. So I’m going to be busy. But until then, I’m going to bed.

As always, peace and love to all.

 

CARR TRAILER VACATION MARCH 2020 – FORT CASEY TO BROOKINGS, OREGON AND BACK

View from our trailer at Fort Casey State Park – Whidbey Island, WA
Ferry from Pt. Townsend to Whidbey Island
Entering the narrow channel to the dock
The back of our trailer

Tuesday, March 3rd – Fort Casey SP (State Park), site 16 (Whidbey Island, WA)

As with all good plans, events over which we have no control sometimes conspire to catch us unaware. And as such, the concrete truck parked across the bottom of our driveway was not part of our planned departure.

Don’t get me wrong, we were delighted to see the truck, because it meant that there was progress being made on Mark and Vicki’s home that was being built right next door on what had previously been our “north 40”. However, we were eager to get going. Finally I went over and talked to the workmen and told them we planned to leave at 11:00. They were very nice about it. You think? Since they had not even bothered to ask us if blocking our driveway would cause us any problems. But then they had also plugged into one of our outside electric outlets without as much as a “by your leave”. So what should I have expected! But as Mr. C. reminded me – it’s always easier to ask for forgiveness rather than obtain permission. As it turned out, the departure delay was really no problem. It allowed us a bit of time with Mark and Vicki to watch the concrete pour and to say a proper goodbye.

Finally we were allowed to back down our driveway and off we went to hook up our trailer and get on down the road towards our destination. And what a fabulous camping spot for our first 2 nights.

Of course it was raining as we unhooked. But after putting the kettle on, turning the furnace to 70, and a small snack to tide us over to dinner, we felt downright cozy in Pullwinkle. (That’s the name of our trailer because the theme throughout is moose as pictures to follow illustrate.)

For those of us who are avid RVers and semi-regularly ride the Coupeville/Port Townsend ferry, just looking out the ferry windows at the happy campers parked right next to the ferry dock never brings out my best side. I always feel jealous. But this time it was us looking at the ferry from our perfect camping spot right by the entrance to the channel. And oh it was nice. Until I woke up in the middle of the night to high winds buffeting our trailer from all directions. But I soon got used to the movement and drifted back to sleep. The next day it was still gloomy weather, but who cares. Our trailer was parked at the perfect location and we had a day free to wander around the island.

Looking down on the campground from up on the bluff
Sunset
Sunset from the bluff

Wednesday, March 4th – Fort Casey SP

After a nice breakfast, we headed out in our truck for a tour of places on Whidbey Island that we wanted to re-visit or had never explored. Like Andy’s parents’ home that John designed. It was good to see how well it was being taken care of and the lovely enhancements that the new owners had made. Then it was off to the southern part of the island to visit South Whidbey SP, Double Bluff, Possession Point, Langley, and around Holmes Harbor.

Then it was a late lunch/early dinner in Oak Harbor at Orlando’s (Southern BBQ) and back to Pullwinkle. A nice libation and an early to bed. Again we were rocked to sleep by the wind, but not as severely as the night before.

View from beside our trailer at Quileute Oceanside Resort – La Push, WA . The beach is just on the other side of the driftwood.
Sea stacks. Oh how I love sea stacks!
Sea spray from crashing waves

Thursday, March 5th – Quileute Oceanside Resort, site 11 (La Push, WA)

When we awoke, our first thoughts after lifting the blinds were that our ferry trip to Port Townsend might be cancelled because the water was extremely choppy. So much so that Andy walked over to speak with the ferry ticket taker. The nice gentleman seemed to think it would be fine, but of course things can and do change with regularity at Admiralty Inlet (the entrance to Puget Sound). So we hooked up and got in line for our ferry crossing half expecting that we would have to make different plans if we hoped to reach La Push at a decent hour. We had plans to have dinner with our dear friends Jim and Margo (also camping in their trailer) at the home of our mutual good friends Chip and Linda. Chip and Linda own the lovely Quillayute River Resort. (For information or to make a reservation at this wonderful resort, type Quillayute River Resort in your internet search box. You may thank me later!)

Since we sailed on schedule, we arrived in La Push around 4:00 and were able to unhook during a semi-lull in the torrential downpour. We were able to stay merely wet rather than being totally soaked. After a nice warming cup of tea for Mr. C. we gathered some goodies together and headed out for our evening with friends.

And of course as you can imagine, we had a great time. We ate pasta and Caesar salad, and for dessert an amazing chocolate pudding and shortbread cookies made by Linda. Then back to our trailer for a nice, quiet nights’ sleep.  

Friday, March 6th – Quileute Oceanside Resort  

Woke to a golden orb shining down on us from a beautiful blue sky and an amazing view of the sea stacks that grace this lovely coastline. Then breakfast and a bit of time on our computers. Andy to deal with some HOA business, me to write down the past couples days’ events before they were lost to me forever. And off we went for another wonderful day spent with our friends.

Since the sun was shining (a rare event in this part of the world where the annual average rain fall is 110 inches), we sat outside by the river and just talked and reminisced about past good times, and generally enjoyed each other’s company. When it came time for dinner, we stuffed ourselves on Chip’s incredible pizza. He makes his own crust, Linda lays out a vast array of topping, and one after another the small pizzas go into the 900 degree Italian pizza oven to be baked to perfection. (And yes, this is a real, imported from Italy pizza oven.) If there is any better pizza to be had outside of Italy, I sure as heck don’t know where that would be. What a wonderful way to spend time with dear friends. Eating fabulous pizza and drinking our favorite libations.

After eating and drinking our fill, it was back to our cozy trailer with its perfect view of 1st beach.

For more information about the La Push area, visit nwtripfinder.com/hike-three-beaches-near-la-push.

Saturday, March 7th – Quileute Oceanside Resort  

Again we had a nice breakfast in our trailer. Now just to let you know that camping in a trailer has its advantages over camping in a tent (especially at this time of year), while we were dining on Canadian bacon, fried eggs, banana bread, homemade granola, and yogurt, it started to snow. Not lovely light snow. No, this was the heavy slushy kind. The super slippery kind of snow. The kind of snow that collects very rapidly on areas of road that never really see the light of day. So as we were driving to the resort to meet up with our friends for a trip to one of our favorite wineries, the tribal police had a section of road on the reservation marked with caution signs and flares. We didn’t see any cars in trouble, but we appreciated the precautions taken on our behalf.

After we arrived at the resort, we piled into Chip and Linda’s van and we headed towards Port Angeles for our 2:00 pm appointment at Camaraderie Cellars. Now this was not a new experience for us. We had been visiting this winery now for many years. In fact Mr. C. is a club member. On two occasions, he has also played tango music for customers during the summer while they enjoy tasting the wonderful wine and enjoying the beautiful setting. So in a way, visiting the winery was like visiting a friend whom we weren’t able to see as much as we would like.

And since I’m sure you would enjoy knowing, it snowed on our way to Port Angeles, but the roads remained clear, and the ride home was devoid of any of that messy white stuff.

After arriving back at the resort safe and sound, we returned to our trailer for a short while to collect our thoughts and some chocolate to share with the group. (Godiva chocolate and gourmet malted milk balls.) But first a fabulous dinner of Jim’s three bean chili and Linda’s delicious cornbread.

Around 9:00 we said thank you and goodbye to our dear friends Chip and Linda, and a “see you down the road” to Jim and Margo. Into our truck and back to our trailer being skillfully guided by a full and glorious moon. Then to sleep knowing that the next day would be a long one.

Our campsite at Cape Disappointment SP – Ilwaco, WA
Nice and private
Resting after a walk on the beach with the Cape Disappointment lighthouse in the background.
View from a bluff above campground
Lighthouse

Sunday, March 8th – Camp Disappointment SP, site A 47 – Ilwaco, WA

Finally got on the road about 11:30. We can usually get out of camp by about 10:00 am, but with daylight savings time and the abysmal loss of an hours sleep, we ran a bit later than planned. But even with a gas and lunch stop, we got into camp by 5:30. Then a simple dinner, a short walk, and some quality reading time before heading off to bed.

Monday, March 9th – Camp Disappointment SP

Woke to bright sunshine. Hurray. After a leisurely breakfast, we headed out to perform a few errands. First we drove to Warrenton, Oregon (just outside Astoria) to the Verizon store to see if we could get our new hotspot up and running. Turns out, the person who sold it to us had entered an incorrect password (or some such problem) but the nice man in Warrenton who helped us had it up and running within 5 minutes. Then it was back to Long Beach and a visit to one of our favorite stores – Dennis and Company (Ace Hardware.) New jeans and shoes for Andy. And a small salad spinner for the trailer. Then groceries, back to the trailer, and a short walk on the beach. Then me to my writing and Andy for a longer walk up to the lighthouse. And the whole day – sunshine, beautiful sunshine. About 3:45, Jim and Margo pulled into site A 50.

After they got all settled and we had enjoyed a bit of appetizer and a drink, we headed into Long Beach for dinner. We have two favorite restaurants in this area. 42nd Street Café and The Depot Restaurant. But neither of these restaurants are open on Sunday or Monday. Rats. So we asked a couple of the locals for recommendations. They suggested the Pickled Fish Restaurant in Long Beach or MyCovio’s in Ocean Park. Since the Pickled Fish was closer and featured seafood (or so we believed), we went there. Wow. What a funky and interesting place. Margo and I both dined on rabbit (very flavorful but tough does not begin to describe the texture) served over whey grits and seasoned kale. Both delicious. When I get home, I am going to try and duplicate the rabbit (not the texture but the flavor). The rabbit tasted like it had been marinated as in hossenpfepher, and then lightly coated and fried. I am going to try marinating chicken breasts, coating them, then frying them, and serving grits and sautéed kale on the side. If I perfect this dish, I will send the recipe to the restaurant. Couldn’t hurt! (As it turns out, our choice to go to Pickled Fish was prescient. MyCovio’s is only open Wednesdays through Sunday.)  Meanwhile the guys both chose a pasta ragu dish. Both were very pleased with their choice. Then back to our respective trailers guided by a beautiful full moon for a peaceful nights’ sleep. It just doesn’t get any better than a lovely night in a quiet campground after an evening of food and fun with friends.   

A quick stop at a view point between Cape Disappointment and Sea Perch RV Resort in Yachats, OR. That’s Margo walking between our trailers.
Jim and Margo
Loved the trees on the bluff

Tuesday, March 10th – Sea Perch RV Resort, site 4 – Yachats, OR

We had stayed at Sea Perch RV Resort last year, so we were very eager to camp there again. But before leaving the Long Beach Peninsula, we were determined to eat at least once at the 42nd Street Café. And they are open for breakfast. But, as it turned out, not on Tuesday mornings any longer. Grrrrr. I get it though. The owners are getting on in years, and each time we visit Long Beach I expect the ownership to have changed. But it’s still the same owners, but they simply aren’t open as often as they were when we owned our Long Beach condo. And we haven’t owned the condo for 15 years (or so).

So here we are at 9:00, hungry but eager to get on the road. So back in Jim and Margo’s truck and in search of a restaurant. We found an open café – Benson’s By The Beach, but they were absolutely slammed. It took a while to get our breakfast but it was tasty. Then back to camp to hook up and get on the road.

And oh what a beautiful drive along the Oregon coast on route 101. And of course it didn’t hurt that the sun was shining. We stopped at a fairly long and flat overlook just before descending into Newport, made sandwiches, and enjoyed the vista from Jim and Margo’s trailer. Then back on the road. We arrived at Sea Perch around 5:00.

Andy and I had no problem getting unhooked, but Jim had an issue with the front left “foot” on the fifth wheel. The pin snapped. Of course with Jim, mechanical issues are no problem. So the broken pin that was supposed to hold the foot up was replaced by a hefty screw driver. After that a nice drink didn’t hurt. I made dinner (meat loaf from our freezer, a wild and black rice dish from a package, and a romaine (spun dry in our new salad spinner) salad with marinated goat cheese dressing.) Then cookies for dessert and a movie (Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them) before it was time to say goodnight. Another wonderful day camping along the Oregon coast with great friends.

Our campsite at Sea Perch
Another view of the site. Long, wide and as close to the ocean as can be.
Just in back of Jim and Margo’s trailer
Windy but beautiful beach walk with Margo
Lovely sand to walk on
Mr. C. preparing his before dinner drink in our trailer

Have Penicillin (name of drink) will travel
Mr. C. mixing a drink for Mr. H. while he cooks dinner in their trailer.

Wednesday, March 11th – Sea Perch RV Resort

Started out slow this morning. I didn’t even wake up until 9:30. And then only because Jim and Margo knocked on our door to see if we were breakfasting together today or was it to be tomorrow morning. We quickly agreed that tomorrow would work better for us. So after a nice shower and a look at email and Facebook (our first day with connectivity on this trip) I made breakfast. After breakfast we conferred with Jim and Margo regarding the days’ events. We decided to make reservations for dinner at Local Ocean (our favorite restaurant in Newport) and we would leave the campground at 2:00.   

Andy took a short walk before leaving for Newport. Looking north from Heceta Head toward our sites at Sea Perch RV Resort.

Left for Newport enjoying the ride along the beautiful Oregon coast. No matter how many times we have driven along this stretch of road, I never tire of looking at the ever changing ocean or the many sea stacks. Even slowly moving through the small towns along the way remains interesting. There are always new businesses, galleries, or houses that catch the eye. Plus there is no getting around going right down the middle of the small but interesting business districts. So might as well put the best spin on it and enjoy the ride. (So to speak)

Margo fell in love with this dragon we saw along the way up to Newport

Our first stop in Newport was to obtain a new pin for Jim and Margo’s 5th wheel. While the guys were in Ace Hardware, Margo and I visited Safeway to purchase steak, baby potatoes, and mushrooms for Thursday night’s BBQ. Then it was off to the Oregon Coast Aquarium.

As far as I am concerned, the aquarium is a must see if you are visiting this part of the world. It is beautifully laid out and the exhibits are wonderful.

In the main building, there are four permanent displays: Sandy Shores, Rocky Shores, Coastal Waters, and a changing exhibit area. The first features fish and invertebrates that live either close to shore or in bays such as Yaquina Bay. Progressing, the aquarium displays feature animals further offshore ending in a kelp forest and sea jelly exhibit. Flanking the permanent displays are the changing exhibits.

There are also exhibits focusing on small marine life in the area including jellyfish, and a tide-pool exhibit in which visitors may touch sea stars and sea anemones.

The largest exhibit is “Passages of the Deep”, which features walk-through acrylic tubes surrounded by deep water marine animals such as sharks, rays, and rockfish.

Passages of the Deep was created in Keiko’s (see Keiko’s story below) former home, and has three sections. Orford Reef contains mostly rockfish and other smaller Pacific-Northwest fish. Halibut Flats contains halibut, ling cod, a small ray, and other large fish, and includes a mock sunken ship. Open Sea is last section in the tunnel, and holds many species of sharks including seven gill sharks, as well as rays, mackerel, anchovies, and salmon.

The aviary at Oregon Coast Aquarium exhibits sea and shore birds. The seabird aviary includes two large pools and rocky cliffs. The Aquarium has the largest outdoor Seabird Aviary in North America, which is home to tufted and horned puffins, black oystercatchers, common murres, rhinoceros auklets and pigeon guillemots. The Aquarium also exhibits two turkey vultures in a separate outdoor area. Outdoor exhibits also showcase marine mammal species native to the Oregon Coast, including sea otters, harbor seals and California sea lions. There is also a coastal cave that houses a giant Pacific octopus. The Aquarium is also home to a nature trail that overlooks the Yaquina Bay estuary and features native plants and free-roaming wildlife.

happy penquins
other happy sea birds digging the sunshine

After viewing the aquarium it was time to head for Local Ocean. We had made a reservation because the restaurant had always been packed in the past. But for whatever reason, Coronavirus perhaps (you think??), there were several tables available when we arrived. Even as we were leaving at about 6:30, there were tables to be had downstairs. And judging from appearances, no one was seated upstairs either. We had heard earlier in the day that Oregon was going to be very proactive in fighting the spread of the virus, and if this extremely popular restaurant was any indication of how hard hit businesses were going to become, the whole western coast of the country was in for a dynamic shakedown. With Washington State the epicenter for the United States, we may have gotten out of dodge just in time. Who knows? We could have been exposed before we left. All we can do is try to use caution.

When we arrived back at our trailers, we decided cookies were called for. So we sat around talking and munching until around 8:00 when we returned to our trailer to bury our noses in our respective books. Then lights out about 10:45 for another wonderful nights’ sleep. There is just something to be said for gently being rocked by the wind as the sound of the surf acts as a background for sweet dreams. Nothing like it my friends.

Thursday, March 12th – Sea Perch RV Resort

After yet another wonderful nights’ sleep, we proceeded down to Jim and Margo’s trailer at 10:00 am for breakfast. Smoked pork chops, hash browns, and scrambled eggs. Are we spoiled? Yes we are! Then a walk on the beach. Windy, cold, but glorious. Then back to our trailers and a quiet afternoon of reading and working on our computers.

The lookout at the top of Cape Perpetua

At about 4:30, after Andy arrived back from his walk on Cape Perpetua, we trundled down to Jim and Margo’s trailer for dinner. We had planned to grill steaks. But the wind was blowing so hard, we decided setting up the BBQ and cooking outside was out of the question. So Jim fried the steaks in his trusty electric frypan. He also roasted small potatoes and sautéed mushrooms to accompany the meal. Along with a nice salad, we dined like royalty.

After dinner it was cookies, ice cream, and Fantastic Beasts (the second movie in the series). Then home to our trailer for a bit of reading and writing before lights out.

I simply must note that while we were camped at Sea Perch, the weather was absolutely glorious. Can’t wait to return to this beautiful RV park again next year.

Our new neighbors at Bullards Beach SP – Bandon, OR
head guy
Very private and sunny campsite

Friday, March 13th – Bullards Beach SP, site 50 – Bandon OR

After hooking up in a light rain, we bid farewell to our dear friends who were heading home. We had spent 7 nights in each other’s company, and we knew we would miss spending more time with them. But we were headed south to visit some of our favorite locations and to spend more quality time relaxing in our trailer. They were headed home to have concrete and fencing work done at their home. (I think we got the better end of the deal.)

On our way to Bullard’s Beach, we stopped in Florence to shop at the Fred Meyer. And OMG, what a busy place that was. I made the mistake of going up and down every aisle just cruising to see if there was anything I needed that had not been on our shopping list. When I got towards the middle of the canned food aisle, I became totally stuck behind a woman who was buying many, many cans of beans. I was going to mention to her that dried beans would be a better, more efficient, healthier, and less expensive way to go, but she didn’t look like the type who would welcome a suggestion from anyone, much less an out-of-towner. So I waited it out, and finally escaped from the aisle from hell. Apparently the 4 foot rule doesn’t apply to people in a super market. Hopefully we won’t need to do any shopping for the next several days.

Of course, with all the coronavirus closures, we did consider breaking and running for home. But we decided until it became evident that going home would be the prudent thing to do, we would continue our travels as planned.

After a lovely dinner in our trailer, we read and by 9:30 we were cozily tucked in our super comfortable queen sized bed. But just to prove Mother Nature was still in control, it rained and hailed all night. Only large puddles in our campground in the morning to remind us of the overnight storm. Jim and Margo however, awoke to snow on the ground at their Kelso campground. There was actually enough snow to thwart their intention to make it home that evening. So they hunkered down for the day and returned home a day later than planned. But safe and sound. Just a subtle (or not so subtle) reminder that winter still has this part of the world firmly in its grip!

Saturday, March 14th – Bullards Beach SP

Awoke to hail loudly pounding on the roof of the trailer. But no accumulation of white stuff on the ground. Just the afore mentioned puddles.

After Andy took his morning shower, it was time for coffee. Then I begrudgingly left the delightful warmth of our bed to perform my morning ablutions. This usually involves me sitting at the table applying the small amount of makeup I wear, while sipping on my coffee. After which I find just enough energy to make breakfast. (It always amazes me how lazy I become when on vacation.) But then, what is there to do in a small trailer after breakfast has been consumed, and the clean dishes put away? I can always give the floor a sweep. But that only takes 3 minutes. And the rest of the inside of the trailer we keep clean as we go. So lazy actually works very well for me. And on a day like March 14th, when it was very wet and gloomy outside, well there’s a post to write and good books to read. Life is good in a trailer. I recommend it highly.

Since I have been showing you the outside of our trailer parked at different locations, I will now show you what the inside of our very compact 24 foot, 7 inch long (about 20 foot long inside) trailer has to offer in the way of amenities.

The back end of our trailer, aka the dining, reading, writing, computer set up, movie watching, game playing, radio listening, and viewing (when we are parked at a site with a view that is) part of the trailer.
Food and drink prep area complete with 3 burner stove with oven, microwave, overhead light and fan. Double sink, pantry, and enough counter space to actually prepare a meal. I love this little kitchen.
A walk-around queen sized bed with overhead storage and closets on both sides of the bed.
View of the “bedroom” showing the pantry and part of the stove on the right. Door to the bathroom on the far left.
Half of the bathroom
Other half of the bathroom
The capacious refrigerator and freezer. And I am not being facetious. I have yet to run out of room in either the fridge or the freezer. And I pack a lot of food when we leave home for a month.

There is however one chore that can’t be done in a trailer. OK, yes you can do it in a trailer, but aside from a couple of pairs of underwear or the like, towels and blue jeans are not easy to wash in a trailer. Or dry! So it was off to the laundromat for us.

We tried hard to plan our trip to town between torrential downpours, but as with all good plans, sometimes you get caught anyway. We loaded the dirty cloths etc. into a washer, fed the machine lots of quarters, and spent the next 42 minutes making a reservation at Edgewaters, our favorite restaurant in Bandon, visiting Second Street Gallery, one of my all-time favorite art galleries, and filling one of our two propane tanks. Then back to the laundromat to dry our cloths. (Adventurous aren’t we?!?!) All in all, a trip worth making. Then back to the trailer for a bit of lunch.

Since we have been traveling this same route and staying at many of the same campgrounds for many years, we had discovered through trial and error, some very remarkable restaurants. And Edgewaters is one of our favorites. So after a small libation in Pullwinkle, we headed off for our 6:30 pm reservation. And once again, not only was the service perfect, the view terrific, our dinners were more than delicious. I had crispy fried oysters, pan seared asparagus, and a basmati rice medley. Andy ordered a very rare tenderloin steak topped with Béarnaise sauce that came with pan seared asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes. OMG. Wonderful food. To top off the meal we shared vanilla cheesecake with raspberry coulis. And since I had no alcohol with dinner, I appointed myself the designated driver. Andy appreciated my valiant offer and ended the evening with a lovely glass of tawny port. And yes, I did drive us back to the campground.

Sunday, March 15th – Harris Beach SP, site A11 – Brookings, OR (ANDY’S BIRTHDAY)

Andy at work stabilizing our trailer in our new site at Harris Beach SP
Andy still setting up the trailer
Our very own semi-enclosed site. Very spacious and comfortable. No close neighbors. Always a plus!

Awoke to a nice day with short periods of sun shining through the clouds as we prepared to leave for our next camping destination. But I must say, it’s always hard for me to leave Bullards Beach SP. I love the park, and I love Bandon. There is just something about this part of the Oregon coast that makes me happy. Perhaps it’s the endless coastline and the sea stacks, or maybe it’s just the freedom I feel when we travel from place to place with our trailer. Whatever the cause – I love this part of the world. So as hard as it was to say goodbye to Bandon for another year, I knew that Harris Beach was just down the road.

We also love staying at Harris Beach SP because from some of the sites we can see the ocean. This time however, the prime sites were already reserved. So our site this year was across the road from where we usually camp. But no complaints. Our site was spacious and sunny. No trees to block the sun or view. And at this time of year, a sunny spot is perfect. So after unhooking, going into Brookings for an absolutely wonderful late lunch of halibut and fries at the Hungry Clam café, we came back to camp and spent a lovely hour reading our books outside in the sunshine. When the late afternoon breeze arrived at about 5:00, we headed inside and cranked up the heat.

A couple hours later I made smoked salmon fettucine and Caesar salad for dinner. After dinner we read until we couldn’t keep our eyes open any longer and trundled off to bed at about 11:00.

Monday, March 16th – Harris Beach SP 

Woke up to sunshine. Absolutely delightful. After a nice breakfast we went into Brookings to replenish a few grocery products. The Fred Meyer parking lot was absolutely packed. But inside, everyone was respectful of distances and except for toilet paper, there appeared to be no shortage of items on the shelves. (At the checkout counter, the clerk told us that a near fight had broken out between 3 ladies (in this case I use the term loosely) over cases of toilet paper.) But we personally had not witnessed anyone acting in any way disruptive or aggressive. Just average people about their business. After putting away our groceries in Pullwinkle, we decided a ride was in order.

Last year we had taken the southern part of the Carpenterville Highway 255 (originally part of old highway 101) to the Cape Ferrelo junction, then back to 101. This visit we decided to take the northern part of the highway starting at the Cape Ferrelo turn off. And up into the coastal mountains we climbed. And again as in last year, we were surprised by the number of homes and farms up in the coastal mountains. If you just drive along 101 you can’t possibly fathom how many people live in them there hills. Because to all outward appearances, there is nothing up above the highway other than trees, more trees, and lots more trees. But as you climb along, you find fire stations and other features common to an area that although not considered heavily populated, is non-the-less in need of basic services.

As we climbed through the mountains we finally reached a high enough elevation that there was a bit of snow on the ground. The road was clear, but there was still snow along the road and in the clearings. Then down again to the coast and a short stop at Cape Sabastian. Some pictures from our ride.

From old highway 101 down to the current 101
More “new” highway 101 and the magnificent Pacific ocean
Now from current 101
From the viewpoint on Cape Sebastian. In the background the famous Arch Rock
Looking down from Cape Sebastian
Cape Sebastian – an absolutely wonderful viewpoint

Since highway 101 in Oregon is one of the most scenic roads in America, I thought you might also be interested in a bit of its history. The following clip is from beachconnection.net

“(Oregon Coast) – You probably haven’t stopped to think about it, but there was a time when Highway 101 didn’t exist along the Oregon coast. What did early Oregon settlers do to get from one coastal town to another? (Below: the road going around Hug Point, near Cannon Beach)

Hug Point in the past

Also, we don’t always know how lucky we have it here in Oregon, with pristine beaches open to everyone (unlike most other coastal states, where the good beaches – that aren’t private – all charge an admission fee.)

These two situations are connected.

Before the 1930’s, all that settlers of this area had for public roads were the beaches (evidence of which can still be seen at the road carved out of the rock at Hug Point, just south of Cannon Beach.)

In 1914, Governor Oswald West declared the beaches public highways, and construction on what was to become Highway 101 began shortly after. The Columbia Highway was to run from Seaside to Astoria and then along the Columbia River to Pendleton. The Oregon Beach Highway was to run from Seaside down to the California line.

Newport’s Bayfront and its muddy road, about 100 years ago

Travel up and down the coast was rustic and difficult to say the least. What now takes around a half hour once took two days. In 1912, a group of men called the “Pathfinders” took a two-day journey by car from Newport to Lincoln City – which was a landmark adventure then. They had to create their own roads via planks at times.

In 1915, an unpaved highway between Astoria and Portland opened up. And after several name changes, Highway 101 was paved and finished in 1931. Then, and only then, could coastal towns connect with each other. According to some state documents, Oregonians at the time discovered incredibly different cultures had evolved in each coastal town, the result of decades of isolation from each other and the rest of the state.

After West’s declaration that beaches were to be public, several laws were passed giving the Highway Commission more control over the beaches over the years. The Oregon State Parks system was an offshoot of this legislation, starting under the highway department in 1925. All this helped pave the way for Gov. Tom McCall to finalize Oregon’s beaches as public in the 60’s.

Neahkanie in the old days

There is little evidence left of these beach highways now, except at Hug Point. But plenty of historical photos of the Oregon coast show lots of ruddy, muddy roads where vehicles became stuck. Newport itself was divided up into Nye Beach and Bayfront – two different towns at the time. These were connected by just such roads.

One interesting bit of evidence discovered in recent years was the remains of a mail truck from around 1920 that was uncovered by low beach sands around Waldport.

Aside from that, there’s no hint that the ten-minute drive you now take – from, say Yachats to Newport, or Oceanside to Netarts – took days back then. A few of the overlooks around the coast are from that period of New Deal work projects, like at Cape Perpetua or Manzanita’s Neahkahnie Mountain. But by and large, you have to stare down at the beach and use your imagination.”

After arriving back at our trailer, we sat outside in the sunshine, had a bit of lunch, and Mr. C. went for a nice walk on Whale’s Head Beach.

Whale’s Head beach

I decided to take it easy. So I read outside until the wind came up about 5:00. Then back into the trailer to await Andy’s return. Then dinner and a quiet evening of reading, writing, and blogging.

Tuesday, March 17th – Harris Beach SP 

Awoke to mist. Then drizzle. And eventually rain. So we basically stayed in the trailer and read, played on our computers, and spent the day in idle relaxation. The only adventure of the day was when Andy decided to make a run to the local adult beverage emporium. (His scotch supply was getting low.) I on the other hand, remained sedentary for the entire day. Actually I entertained myself by reading about the coronavirus and the effect it was having on the world. With all the closures that were happening, I started being uncomfortable about being so far from home. I wondered what would happen to our kittens if our dear friend and house sitter Peggy got ill. I quickly realized how difficult it might become just to get home. On that happy thought, we enjoyed a nice dinner and decided to watch a movie.

We rarely watch movies, either at home or when we are in our trailer. We simply prefer to read. But Andy had brought along a couple of movies, and so, why not watch a movie? Now this was not just any movie. This was Double Indemnity, the 1944 film noir classic starring Fred MacMurray, Barbara Stanwyck, and Edward G. Robinson. Now, that was a movie! I enjoyed every minute of the film. Amazing acting, great plot line, and the cinematography was fabulous. After that it was time to brush our fangs and head for the land of nod.  

Wednesday, March 18th – Columbia Riverfront RV Park, site 58 (Woodland, WA) 

This day began with a difficult decision to be made. Should we continue our trip south or should we run for home? We were scheduled to leave that morning for Patricks Point SP in Trinidad, California. But we had heard that travel might be restricted between states and we didn’t want to get stuck so far from home. So we decided instead of continuing our trip we would break for home. So I made a reservation at Columbia Riverfront RV Park in Woodland, WA for that evening.

It took us until 7:00 pm that evening to reach our destination. But we were greeted by a lovely young lady who helped us get set up as quickly as possible. The campground was packed. Our hostess explained that many of the sites were filled with Canadians. There had been rumors that the border between Canada and the US might be closing. So we were not alone in thinking it was time to head for the barn. After a nice dinner we turned in early.

In case you are interested, the remaining campgrounds we had planned to visit this trip were Patricks Point SP (Trinidad, CA) (as mentioned above), Emigrant Lake County Park (Ashland, OR), LaPine SP (LaPine, OR – near Sunriver, OR – near Bend, OR), Maryhill SP (on the Columbia river about 1 hour east of Portland on the Washington side), Columbia Riverfront RV Park (where we stayed our last night out), and finally Belfair SP (Belfair, WA)

Thursday, March 19th – Camano Island

First thing I learned upon waking was that all the state parks in California had been closed the day before. If we had not decided to head home, we might have been met with a closed gate. Having learned that we made the right decision, we started our day a bit relieved that although breaking for home had felt a bit unseemly, our concern had been valid and our decision appropriate.  

After breakfast we cleaned and prepared the trailer for storage. Then after building a sandwich for our lunch, we set off for home. Easy driving all the way. There were lots of vehicles on the road, but I was very pleased that a good percentage of them were trucks. Trucks mean merchandise is still available and being distributed.

Once parked at our local storage facility, we unloaded some necessities, and drove home. It’s always wonderful to come home. And we are so very lucky to have a home to return to. One that is safe and secure. And a pleasant spot to wait out whatever the future brings. With each communication regarding the coronavirus it becomes more apparent that everyone’s life is being affected. There are no lines of demarcation. It matters not if people are rich, poor, black, white, male, female or any of the other descriptors that reflect our differences. We, all of us, are in this together. So to all who read this trip report – stay safe. And look for new recipes to follow. After all, I have to do something while I am confined to quarters. Might as well try out new recipes and share them with you all.

Love, peace, good eating, and good health to all.

Keiko’s Story (from The Oregon Encyclopedia)

“Keiko, a male orca (orcinus orca) originally captured in 1979 from a pod in Iceland, lived in Oregon for less than three years. During that time he became one of Oregon’s best-known celebrities and a major attraction at the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport.

For centuries orcas were assumed to be savage predators, roving wolf packs of the sea, attacking seals, sea lions, and other whales many times their size. In the early 1960s it was discovered that orcas could adapt to captivity. They were able to form relationships with human trainers and learn spectacular tricks. A huge orca leaping from the water became a feature of aquarium shows.

An orca’s ability to sell tickets made up for the difficulty of capturing the animals and the expense of providing a habitat where they could survive. The demand for orcas led to the decimation of pods in the North Pacific, causing growing concern about the advisability of the entire enterprise.

The orca who became known as Keiko was captured in Iceland in 1979. He was exhibited there for three years, then sold to Marineland in Ontario, where he began performing for audiences. Although Keiko appeared to enjoy contact with humans, his dorsal fin began to droop. He also developed skin lesions.

In 1985 Keiko was sold to Reino Aventura, an amusement park in Mexico City. Warmer temperatures and chlorinated water aggravated the lesions and Keiko’s deteriorating health. Keiko would most likely have died within a few years under these conditions.

However, in 1993, Warner Brothers released Free Willy, a film about a boy who frees an orca from an unscrupulous amusement owner by returning him to the sea. Keiko starred as the orca. The success of Free Willy and its sequels posed a moral dilemma for the studio, the filmmakers, and its audiences. How could they cheer Willy’s final leap to freedom knowing that Keiko, the real orca, was living under less-than-adequate conditions?

Warner Brothers and Craig McCaw, a Northwest cellular communications entrepreneur, established the Free Willy Keiko Foundation in 1995. Donations large and small funded the building of a special facility for Keiko at the Oregon Coast Aquarium in Newport. With the help of the United States Air Force and UPS, Keiko arrived at his new home in Oregon on January 7, 1996.

Keiko thrived in his new environment. He gained weight and his general health appeared to improve. He also became a major attraction at the aquarium. This posed a second dilemma. Keiko was ultimately supposed to be released into the wild. His stay in Oregon could only be temporary, until his health improved enough for him to be released into the wild.

Many marine biologists felt this was unrealistic. Having depended on humans for so many years, they doubted Keiko could learn to survive on his own.

Nonetheless, on September 9, 1998, Keiko left Oregon. He was flown to a sheltered bay in Iceland when Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ocean Futures Society took over his care. Part of his training included swimming in the ocean outside the bay.

Keiko disappeared on one of these excursions. He eventually turned up 870 miles away off the Norwegian coast. Again, he became an attraction as boatloads of sightseers came out to see him. Keiko appeared to enjoy the attention. He accepted food from the visitors and even allowed some to climb on his back, defeating the whole purpose of bringing him from Oregon.

Keiko’s handlers eventually herded him to Taknes Bay, hoping he might join a passing orca pod. These hopes never materialized. Keiko remained in Taknes Bay as his health deteriorated. On the morning of December 12, 2003, Keiko beached himself. He died of pneumonia.

The Oregon Coast Aquarium held a memorial service for Keiko on February 20, 2004. Seven hundred people attended. Keiko was never replaced. Oregonians are no longer comfortable with the idea of turning orcas into tourist attractions.

One positive outcome of Keiko’s story is that it became an early step in changing public attitudes in the United States and worldwide towards the morality of capturing orcas for exhibition in public and private aquariums. Keiko’s experience convinced large numbers of people that while orcas might adapt to captivity in some ways, they could not thrive in such limited environments. Unlike the story of the orca in the film Free Willy, Keiko’s experience proved that even with the best intentions and the guidance and support of marine biologists, it was extremely difficult to return a captive orca to the wild.

The final shock to the idea of captive orcas as happy, gentle giants occurred at Orlando, Florida’s Sea World in 2010 when a trainer, Dawn Brancheau, was killed by one of the animals she worked with. Gabriella Cowperthwaite’s documentary film Blackfish, premiering at the Sundance Film Festival in 2013, focused on that orca, Tillikum, who had also been involved in two other fatalities besides Ms. Brancheau’s. Blackfish documents how a highly intelligent and active animal, used to swimming 100 miles or more a day, deteriorates physically and mentally in the limited concrete pool of an aquarium. It is the equivalent of locking human beings in a clothes closet and keeping them there for decades. The film sparked a public reaction against Sea World. As a result, the company ended its performing and breeding programs in all its aquariums.

Keiko lived in Oregon for fewer than three years. Even so, Oregonians still think of him as one of their own. Although his story did not have the happy ending of Free Willy, it changed attitudes toward “animal attractions.” Increased legislation world-wide protects orca pods as endangered species. Only one orca has been taken captive in North American waters since 1976.”

SEPTEMBER 2019 TRAILER TRIP – CANADA (and a bit of Washington state too)

From our campsite in Yoho National Park (Kicking Horse Campground).

OK, I don’t usually write a trip report when we go on trailer trips. I don’t know why I’ve never written one before, but this time I decided I would post about our recent camping adventure. I realized more and more of our friends have discovered that living out of a trailer while seeing some of the most beautiful countryside in the world is as enjoyable as we have always said it was. (Actually it has very little to do with us. It’s just that our friends are getting older right along with us, and sleeping in a tent (strike that) getting in and out of a tent on knees that are starting to develop or are already suffering from arthritis, is not fun anymore! And getting soaked while trying to cook dinner in a horrific rain storm has jolly well lost its appeal too. Just like carrying a heavy pack while traversing mountain trails somehow doesn’t hold the cachet it did when we were say – 40. So where some of our friends used to be avid tenters and/or owned boats and enjoyed fun adventures on Puget Sound, age and reality just naturally led to discovering the joy of land yachts.)

Now for some of you who have never spent a night in a travel trailer or RV, let me begin by laying out some of the reasons why going to all the trouble of hauling one of these babies around is such a delight. First of all – you always have a bathroom at your disposal. And for those of you who are over the age of 60, you understand how comforting that can be. Also, you unpack your cloths once. Once. No more getting in and out of luggage at every change of location. Then of course, you have your own bed and pillow. And, you can open windows.

Now that may not seem like a big thing to some of you. But I hate sleeping in a hotel room and not being able to get fresh air when I want it! Then of course there is the food aspect of having your second “home” with you everywhere you go. You can bring supplies for breakfast, lunch, and dinner should you so choose to have all 3 squares in the privacy of your own space. (You don’t have to of course, but the option is always there!) And ice. Our freezer make ice overnight. The freezers in most trailers today are large enough that you can bring enough frozen items for a whole month of meals. Even ice cream. And I have to say. If you have never been in the middle of absolutely nowhere, and enjoyed a frozen Dove Bar in the middle of summer, you have simply not lived! And I have never yet been in a hotel that allows you to keep your door open, sit outside in the fresh air, feel the sun on your face, listening to ocean waves or the gurgle of a river, reading a good book, with your favorite libation on a little table beside you. At least, not for $40-$50 a night!

Now of course there are the drawbacks. But frankly sitting here in Kootenay National Park looking at the aspen trees whose leaves are just starting to change color, I can’t think of a single one.

So please enjoy the brief daily log of where we were and where we stayed. But please understand. This is mainly a record for Mr. C. and me and for our friends who also spend time in their trailers. This post records the route we took, the campground plus site number where we stayed, and any recommendations (including restaurants along the way) we think you might consider valuable.

Tuesday, September 10, 2019 – Camano Island to Hope, British Columbia (BC)

Had lunch at Bob’s Burgers and Brew in Sumas (where we crossed the border.) Good burgers and fries.

At Abbotsford, took Trans-Canada Highway (TCH) 1 to Hope, BC (beautiful scenery)

Coquihalla Campground, fabulous site 113 on the river. And since we would only be in camp for one night, we didn’t unhook. (Makes for a fast get-away!)

the Coquihalla River

Wednesday, September 11, 2019 – Hope, BC to Hedley, BC

Jumped onto Hwy. 3 (Crow’s Nest Highway) thru Manning Park and on to Hedley.

No lunch on route.

Riverhaven RV Park, site 8 on the river. Fabulous campground. Very clean and well-manicured.

Could not have been a more beautiful camp site. And the owner was wonderful. She went out of her way to make us feel welcome. She genuinely wanted us to enjoy our stay in her park. Even had charming neighbors. Not invasive, just pleasant.
lunch by the Similkameen River
happy camper

Thursday, September, 12, 2019 – Hedley, BC to Christina Lake, BC

Continued on Hwy. 3 to Christina Lake

Had lunch in Midway, BC in the Kettle River Valley at Mile 0 (zero) Diner. Wonderful food!

Schulli Resort, site 16 near lake
OK campground. Very pleasant owner. $40 (Canadian) Cash only

OK campsite.
We were fairly close to Christina Lake. This picture taken from my reading spot in the shade of a lovely old tree, complete with squirrels.

Friday, September 13, 2019 – Christina Lake, BC to Cranbrook, BC

Hwy 3 all day!

Lunch in Creston, BC at Jimmy’s Bar & Grill. Food was fine. Beer was great!

Beer – not just for breakfast any more!

Cranbrook/St. Eugene KOA, site 31 right on the river

Brand new campground. Lovely setting on First Nation land. And right next door – casino and golf course. But very quiet and lovely grounds. Would stay there again. People in office were charming.

St. Mary’s River

Saturday, September 14, 2019 – Cranbrook, BC to Kootenay National Park (NP) – Redstreak Campground, site F 31 (pull-thru with lots of room between sites)

Hwys. 93 and 95 (beautiful scenery)

No lunch on route.

Sunday, September 15, 2019 – Kootenay NP

Drove through the park all the way to the Banff NP entrance (also the Continental Divide and the Alberta border). Turned around and drove back through cloudy and rainy weather. Hopeful that weather the next day would be better. What we could see was absolutely beautiful.

Monday, September 16, 2019 – Kootenay NP

Drove back north through the park as far as Vermilion Crossing where we had a picnic lunch (in the truck) because once again, the weather was not conducive to being outside. But what we could see was glorious. We definitely want to return and explore this park in better weather. Beautiful does not even begin to describe what we saw.

Wild life was abundant. Several sightings of big horn sheep (even in camp), mountain goats, and one lone elk with a rack larger than the rest of his body. He was splendid and he knew it!

Picture taken right next to the Vermillion River Crossing.
Looking further down stream.

Tuesday, September 17, 2019 – Redstreak Campground through the Northern part of Banff NP which leads to Jaspar NP – Pocahontas Campground – Site D 15

What an incredible ride. We drove north on 95, then turned East on TransCanada 1 to hwy. 93 North to Jaspar. In Jaspar we turned North East on hwy. 16 to our campground which is only a few klicks from the East Gate entrance to Jaspar NP. It was a long day. But the Canadian Rockies are exquisite. In any direction we looked, high incredibly beautiful mountains and lovely valleys filled the horizon.

Bighorn Sheep
One of many glaciers and snowfields we saw from the road.

When we finally reached camp, we were tired. But when we saw our camp site, our energy returned. Our camp site was tucked into the woods, with a lot of room between sites, and our trailer backed up against a creek. Lovely and very, very quiet.

Mountain creek behind our camp site. We could hear it at night. Lovely.

Wednesday, September 18, 2019 – Jaspar NP

Today we decided to go north and east out of the park to the town of Hinton to get gas. With a full tank of gas we decided to go even further afield and do some exploring. So we drove north on the “scenic route to Alaska” (so described on the road signage) headed for the town of Grande Cache which is about 143 klicks from Hinton. We had never traveled as far north in all the many times we had camped in British Columbia and Alberta. So this was a real adventure. New territory. And we so love to explore new areas of the world.

And we were not disappointed. We were basically in the eastern foothills of the Rocky Mountains. Up and down hills, around lakes, and trees everywhere we looked. The larch, aspen, and cotton wood trees were all turning yellow so the color contrast with the evergreens was delightful. The weather never got boring either. One minute the sun was shining. The next minute our wipers were barely able to keep up with the liquid onslaught.

Then back to our dry camp. (Dry camp definition. No water, electric, or septic hookups.) Note to friends thinking about buying a travel trailer. Get one with a solar panel on the roof. And yes it costs more. But – you can dry camp without fear of losing power. OK – you can’t run your microwave or toaster. So what! You can however, read into the wee small hours of the night. You can re-charge your phone, Nook, or Kindle. You can run the fan above your stove and your fantastic fans (look it up) so you are never without a lovely flow of air even in very warm weather. And – now this is important so pay attention – you can turn on lights and read until your eyes fall out of your head. (We love to read, can you tell?) But no, you can’t watch TV when dry camping. So if you are accustomed to watching TV every night – don’t dry camp! Simple solution.

Thursday, September 19, 2019 – Jaspar NP

A slow start to our day this morning. A leisurely breakfast and time spent studying our map to plot out our destination for today’s trip in the park. Since we had stayed in Jaspar previously, we had already visited most of the hot tourist spots. But we had not visited Maligne Lake. And I am so glad we decided to make this lovely lake our destination for today. We saw a moose. A moose! In the woods. Not in a marshy area where you normally think a moose would be found munching away on tender shoots. Nope, this guy was just off the road in a forested area. And this was no little guy. This was a full grown male moose. Big old rack and all. It was thrilling to say the least.

As stated above, we were on our way to Maligne Lake in the East Central area of the park. Up through forested areas and next to rushing rivers. When we arrived at the lake, there were scores of people. We finally found a place to park and walked down to the shore to take pictures. It was only about 50 degrees and the threat of rain was ever present. So we didn’t spend too much time walking around.

Then back in the truck and back towards camp. But first a stop at the Maligne Canyon. Again rain was sputtering at us when we got out of the truck. But with rain jackets on and trekking poles firmly affixed to our hands, off we proceeded to bridge 1 & 2.

Now I have seen narrow canyons before, and rivers at the bottom of canyons before, but I have never seen a narrower canyon with the water so far below us. It was crazy exciting to view. An easy walk too. (Always like that!) And because of the nature of the rock that formed the canyon walls, there were potholes of every size for the water to swirl around in.

Couldn’t even see the water it was so far down in the canyon.
a dry pothole
View from the 2nd bridge
The first bridge (I think)
Up near the top of the canyon

Then back to the truck and on to Jaspar (the village) to gas up and check our email. (No service at our camp ground.)

Along the way back north to our campground, we saw more bighorn sheep, a nice elk, and about 5 trains. (Being train lovers, we are always on the lookout for bright single headlights on tracks.)

Then a bit of shopping in Hinton (we had forgotten to get new batteries for our trailer smoke alarms while we were in Jaspar). And because we hadn’t had any lunch and it was getting on towards 5:00, we decided to stop for dinner at Mr. Mike’s Steak House (casual). OK, but not amazing.

Friday, September 20, 2019 – Yoho NP – Kicking Horse Campground – site 85

What an incredible drive through Yoho and into Banff NP. Past innumerable ice fields and glaciers.

Andy thinking to himself – see anything you like, dear? Patti thinking to herself – it just doesn’t get any better than this! I can’t wait to come back.

Then onto TransCanada 1 and down to Kicking Horse Campground.

Got into camp about 10 minutes before Rick and Katie (Andy’s sister and her husband).

Had a wonderful dinner with them and then off to bed with dreams of all the wonderful sights we would see the next day.

Saturday, September 21, 2019 – Yoho NP

Got an early start (10:45) on our sight-seeing trip to see beautiful Takakkaw falls conveniently located at the end of the road our campground was on.

Andy, Patti, Rick & Katie – the intrepid travelers
waterfall runoff

While taking the short path to get a close and personal look at the bottom of the falls, we realized there were several climbers on the vertical walls of this giant rock. Good grief! We watched them for a while through our binoculars, then slowly wound our way back to our trucks. Next destination – Lake Louise. But first a stop at the spiral tunnels. And of course, not a train in sight this visit. When Mr. C. and I had visited this area 7 years before, we had watched a train go into one end of the tunnel, and then out the other end with some of the cars still going into the side of the hill. Amazing. For more information about the spiral tunnels, go online and watch one of the many YouTubes that show this marvel of railroad engineering. But on to Lake Louise. And OMG!

Seven years ago when we were in the area and had visited Lake Louise, same time of year BTW, we had no problem parking and walking around the lake. This time, all the parking lots were full and it was a total mad house. At least we had cell phone service, so we decided that none of us wanted to fight the crowds and we would go somewhere else for the day. So we left Lake Louise behind and headed for Fields. On our way to Fields, we stopped along the road for a picnic lunch. While we were eating, Rick spied Mountain Goats on the rocky mountain face across the highway. So we spent some quality time checking out the white fuzzy critters hanging out on bare rocky outcrops. Delightful.

When we reached Fields, it was basically just a small town very close to our camp ground. But it was delightful in its rural simplicity. Tiny homes, tiny yards, but lots of charm. And of course like everywhere else in the vicinity, lots of people. All we really wanted was a cup of coffee. But apparently everyone else wanted something too, so we decided to just go back to camp and make our own coffee. So there!

While Rick, Katie, and Mr. C. went for a hike near our campground, I worked on dinner. Then a quiet evening in camp and an early bedtime. 9 plus hours later we got up for Sunday’s adventure.

Sunday, September 22, 2019 – Yoho NP

Again an early start around 10:15. (OK, so 10:15 is not early by some standards, but we are on vacation. And what that means is that we can get out of bed any old darn time we want! And then there are showers to be had, coffee to be drunk, breakfast to be made, and plans to be hatched. This all takes time!)

So today’s agenda included a drive to, and a hike around Emerald Lake. And again – people everywhere. So parking quite away from the lake, we got out our warm jackets and trekking poles and away we went. Well I got about 1/3rd of the way around the lake (over 3 miles around the whole lake) when I decided I had walked far enough. But Rick, Katie, and Mr. C. decided to continue walking around the entire lake. And when they were finished and telling me all about what I had missed – muddy areas, roots jumping out at them from the path, and mud everywhere (I mentioned the mud already, but it bears repeating) we re-connected, with me dry and happily sitting on a comfortable rock, and them a bit tired and ready to crawl back to camp for refreshment. So that’s just what we did. We had packed picnic lunches, but with so many people and the weather not looking conducive to sitting outside, we headed back to camp and ate our lunches in our respective trailers.

Emerald Lake

Ready to walk. Note the beautiful lodge in the background. Not to mention the scenery itself!
Flowers along the path.

But it was only early afternoon, so we headed out again. This time to visit the boundary of Kootenay NP and Banff NP. (Coincidentally the border between British Columbia and Alberta and also the continental divide.) Having reached that destination, we decided to back track a bit and head North West of Lake Louise towards Jaspar NP and the beautiful Bow Lake.

Now Bow Lake in and of itself is lovely. But when you have it as a foreground to two glaciers, you just can’t beat it for spectacular! So we walked around a bit, but when it got chillier than we liked, we headed back to our trucks and made tracks for home.

Then a pleasant evening enjoying drinks, dinner, and companionship. A great day.

Monday, September 23, 2019 – Sicamous, BC – Cedars RV Resort – site 190

Trans Canada 1 all the way through Revelstoke NP due west to Sicamous. Stopped in the small town of Revelstoke to obtain groceries and have lunch. Then on to our camp ground.

Now most of the time when we reach our destination with our previously printed out campground reservation confirmation in hand, we simply walk into the office, say howdy to the nice host or hostess at the desk and they help us find our site and all is peachy keen and dandy. But between the time I booked our sites in April and when we arrived in September, the campground had been sold and all the sites were now individually owned. (This seems to be very common in Canada BTW. People buy RV sites then actually live on them either year round or for a certain portion of the year.)

Well at least for us, the previous resort owners had made sure that the new owners honored our pre-paid reservations. So instead of a friendly person directing us to our camp site, the office was closed and all we had was a site number and a map, but no guidance. OK, we’re smart people and we know how to read. But never the less, it was a bit disconcerting. And of course it was time to do laundry. But with no one in the office to make change for us, and us without a roll of Canadian quarters, I had to wash underwear in our kitchen sink. 24 hours later, our underwear was still wet, and the prospects were not good that they would be dry in any foreseeable future! (We are truly ruffing it here!)

But we found our sites, enjoyed a nice dinner together, and slept very well in our quiet and secluded sites right next to the pond that brought us to this RV resort in the first place.

Now pictures and written descriptions can be deceiving. And had it not been late September, the pond lovingly referred to in the description of this fantastic trailer site would have been grounds for battle. Because if ever I saw a mosquito breeding ground, this pond was the poster child for a haven for mommy and daddy mosquitos with dreams of over populating the world with flying, stingy nasties. Not a bit of flow to be seen on this pond. And only murky waters that probably only saw the light of day twice a year. Before the trees budded out in the spring. And just after all the surrounding deciduous trees lost their leaves in the fall. Other than those two times, the pond would have been in shadow with no hope of ever feeling a breeze ripple the surface water. And no critters of any kind visiting the area. No ducks, no fish, no apparent beaver activity. No nothing alive. Like I said – a perfect breeding ground for mosquitos!

But we survived. But I can’t help but wonder who was buying these sites and whether they ever planned to spend any time outside their trailers? Because some of the rigs were enormous. In fact, one of the 5th wheel trailers was longer and larger than any trailer I had ever seen before. And I have seen some large trailers. I was going to measure it, but our tape measure would not have come close to recording its length, so I decided not to bother. Anyway, all I can hope for the new owners, is that they like to stay inside their trailer during the summer. Because the mosquitos are really not going to be their friends.

The pond

Another view of the pond
Picture through the trees from our neighbor’s site. Notice the lovely flowers.

Really a lovely site (in September)


Would return to this park again if this site had not been sold. Oh well. There are always more parks and new sites to visit and enjoy.

Tuesday, September 24, 2019  – Sicamous

This was another of those leisurely days when we didn’t have any real plan, so things kind of happened spontaneously. Our first adventure was to drive down the road to Sicamous to get gas. Gas is always a nice thing to have. And getting gas without a trailer attached to your truck is always preferable to having to find a station with enough room to pull up to the pumps and then get away from the pumps with every part of your trailer and truck still intact. I know this sounds simple. But until you have had the pleasure of hauling your home on your back, you can’t quite understand how nerve racking it can be to complete even the most simple of maneuvers. So with gas tanks full and time to spare, we decided to head for the town of Salmon Arm.

Now had I been the founder of this most delightful burg, I’m almost positive I could have thought of a better name. Salmon Arm? Why not Arm Pit? Or Pork Belly? Because this is a beautiful little town right on a lovely lake with room enough for suburbs with views both to the lake and to the surrounding foothills. And to my thinking, it deserves a nicer name! But who am I to recommend a name change at this late date. Salmon Arm it is! (But don’t miss this lovely little town if you visit this part of BC.)

Our first stop – the Visitor’s Centre. Then we walked out on a pier and paid tribute to an osprey and a blue heron. After getting back in our trucks we took a side road to Canoe Beach. We parked and in order to get to the beach we had to walk through a culvert- like train underpass. And with luck on our side, a big old train just happened to come along. And of course, because I absolutely love trains, I had to walk through the tunnel while the train was steaming over my head. So today I was run over by a train. But not a bruise to show!

Of course I didn’t think fast enough to have Mr. C. take my picture in the culvert with the train steaming overhead. But you can use your imagination.

After our adventure with the train, we decided to head back to camp for lunch. After lunch we decided to drive back to Revelstoke and to re-visit Revelstoke NP and drive to the top of Mt. Revelstoke. We had visited this area 7 years before and had made this same drive. But 7 years ago it had been sunny and nice. Today it was sunny when we started up the mountain, but the weather soon deteriorated into a heavy rain shower. By the time we got to the top, the rain was threatening to turn to snow and the fog was so thick, we could have cut it with a knife. So we did what any other reasonably intelligent couple would have done. We turned the truck around and beat feet for home.

One interesting aspect to our visit to the NP, was the signs posted along the drive. Watch out for amphibians. Every few klicks there would be another sign posted with a picture of a salamander and a frog. Really folks. Watch out for amphibians when nary a sign of caution for all the hikers who were on the trail that went from the bottom of the mountain to the summit and must have crossed the road 8-10 times. Perhaps the park rangers were more enamored with amphibians then with humans. We will never know!

And dogs were not allowed past a certain point on the road because a grizzly bear had been sighted at the top about 2 weeks before. Maybe I’m mistaken, but I would think a grizzly bear could be quite a few miles away after 14 days. And what does a grizzly have to worry about from a 10 pound dog anyway? Apparently some things are to remain mysteries. Just shut up Patti, obey the rules, and don’t ask too many questions.

So after getting rained out, we headed back to camp and a lovely dinner and evening with Rick & Katie. Tomorrow – Kelowna.

Wednesday, September 25, 2019 – Hiawatha RV Park – Kelowna BC

Highway 97 south out of Sicamous to our camp in Kelowna. I didn’t take a picture of our camp site because I don’t plan to ever return to that campground! Our sites (C10 & C11) were so close together that our picnic table sat right next to the septic hose from our neighbor’s trailer. Not a place I ever want to see again.

However, had a nice visit from Rick and Katie’s friends Gord and Dianne who retired to Penticton from Vancouver. They drove up and spent a couple of hours visiting with us. Brought us cookies too! After they left we took a short walk along the lake in our very upscale neighborhood with fancy hotels and condominiums.  

This beautiful sculpture was along our lake walk in front of some very fancy resort accommodations.

Thursday, September 26, 2019 – Kelowna, BC to Lake Chelan State Park (SP) site 8

Stayed on hwy. 97 south all day. Lovely drive because we were never far from a beautiful lake or river. They call this area Lake Country for a reason. It is also the heart of wine country. So there were an abundance of wineries we could have visited. Of course we would have had to pay duty on any wine we would have purchased, so we just kept driving until we reached our destination.

Boy oh boy has Chelan expanded since we were last in the area. Gorgeous new homes and condos and such. Everywhere you look, there is another million dollar home being constructed or not more than 5 years old. But all you have to do is spend a little time in the area and you understand why people want to live here or have their 2nd home here. Today was the first day of our entire vacation where it was actually sunny most of the day. And the temperature was in the 70s. Beautiful. Got to camp about 4:00. Took a few minutes to hook up hoses and dig things out of their hiding places, but we were soon on our way to the local Safeway for provisions. I’m telling you. The deli case and pre-made food case was the largest I have ever seen. Obviously that is what sells at this very large store. The fresh meat case was about half the size of the one on Camano Island. But had I wanted a ready-made sandwich, cooked chicken, or meal of almost any kind, I would have had no worries. Kind of a sad commentary actually. At least I would have felt pretty bad if I lived in Chelan and was trying to eat healthy and provide my family with nourishing food on a full time basis. All that prepared food is not only costly but not nearly as nourishing as most food cooked from scratch. Oh well. This appeared to be a store that caters mostly to tourists and retirees. (Or so it seemed.) And if truth be told, when I am on a trailer holiday, I tend to purchase a few things, like store bought hummus, risotto mixes, and marinara sauce, because either they have a greater shelf life than homemade, or they take a lot less time and effort to prepare after a long travel or adventuring day. So I am just as guilty as the next guy when it comes to convenience when on vacation.

Our fabulous and spacious camp site at Chelan State Park
You can see Lake Chelan just across the large grassy area behind our trailer. When we first arrived, I practically had to use my broom to encourage 2 deer to move while Andy backed the trailer into position. They liked our site too.

Friday, September 27, 2019 – Lake Chelan State Park

Late start to our day. We had some emails that required answers and some reservations to make and by the time we finished with our “chores” it was 11:30. So we decided to drive to the end of the South Shore road. (The campground is on the South Shore road, but only about a third of the way to the end.) As we were driving along I was completely taken aback by all the homes both along the shore and up in the hills. I had no idea Lake Chelan was this populated.

Since the early 70s and up to about 12 years ago, we used to wilderness camp on Kootenay Lake. And since we still lived in our Bellevue home, we would go I-90 to Cle Elem and then to Wenatchee and then North through Lake Chelan to cross the border at Osoyoos. And every year we would make a stop in Chelan for a root beer float at the A&W along the main drag north out of Chelan.  But we never stopped to look around the lake. Chelan was merely a quick stop along the way.

And Mr. C. and I many years ago took the Lady of the Lake (boat) up to Stehekin to spend a few nights at the Stehekin Valley Ranch. But we never drove around the area much that time either. So I was completely blown away by all the development on both sides of the lake. After lunch we drove along the North shore. (May actually be called the Manson highway.) Again, I was amazed at the sheer numbers of homes, condos, orchards, schools, fruit packing plants, and humanity in general living in an area I had assumed held only barren and unpopulated dry desert hills. I know better now! But back to our drive up the South Shore road.

We decided to turn in at Field’s Landing. Field’s Landing is the first stop the Lady of the Lake (boat) makes each day on its way up the lake to Stehekin. As we were driving down the entrance road, a black bear sow ran right in front of our truck. Now we know it was a black bear (we later talked to the park ranger regarding the sighting), but this female (we think) was the color of cinnamon. She was absolutely beautiful. All 150 (plus or minus) pounds of her.

FYI: Though they are called black bears, the species comes in a range of colors. According to the North American Bear Center, “Black bears come in more colors than any other North American mammal. They can be black, brown, cinnamon, blond, blue-gray, or white. The variation in color has to do with their environment. A lighter color is more common in black bears in Western states, as the lighter shades help them blend in better in open meadows as well as reduces heat stress. In the Northeast, on the other hand, around 97 percent of black bears are black in color, whereas around half of the black bears in the West are shades of brown.”

Regardless of the color – WE SAW A BEAR TODAY! Absolutely fantastic.

Then back to camp around 4:00 to check our email, have a small libation, relax, and decide where to go for dinner.

We mainly eat dinner at our campsite, but a couple times each trip we go out. Usually it’s at the beginning of our trip and near the end of our trip. With only one more campground before we return to civilization, this is our night to splurge and let someone else cook our meal and do our dishes. (Our last campground is one of my favorites – Wanapum SP. But Wanapum SP is in Vantage Washington. And if you have ever been across the Columbia River at Vantage, you know there is no fine dining establishment around for miles.)

So for our last trailer dinner we will just have to content ourselves with home grilled New York steaks, with a caramelized onion and Stilton Blue Cheese sauce. Corn on the cob and a fresh romaine salad will complete the meal. (Our last campsite meals tend to be pretty special too. And probably better than tonight’s meal. But I will let you know when we return from dinner.

Note: We had dinner at Tin Lilly’s in down town Chelan. OK, but not special and very noisy.)

Saturday, September 28, 2019 – Wanapum State Park, site 19

Raining buckets as we were hitching up at Lake Chelan SP. Left camp about 10:30. Drove south on the west side of the river – 97 alt. Easy drive with no complications. There was rain and wind here and there, but nothing too difficult to handle. Arrived at Wanapum in fairly nice weather. Set up camp and had a leisurely afternoon. However, as evening approached the wind picked up and so did the rain. So my plan of grilling steaks was thwarted by Mother Nature. So instead of steak we enjoyed ground lamb burgers with Tzatziki sauce, Mexican black beans, and salad. Oh well. The steaks will taste really great when we grill them at home.

Our site on Wanapum Lake

Wanapum Lake is a reservoir on the Columbia River. It was created in 1963 with the construction of the Wanapum Dam. It stretches from the Wanapum Dam upstream to the Rock Island Dam. The dam and lake are named for the Wanapum people.

For more information about the Wanapum people, visit https://www.historylink.org/File/9524

Could we get much closer to the lake? I don’t think so! Lucky us. No wonder we keep coming back to this fabulous campground. Already looking forward to the next time.


Sunday, September 29, 2019 – home again

The end of a vacation always causes me sadness and happiness at the same time. Sadness to be leaving the joys of travel and seeing new and glorious surroundings. But happiness too because we are returning to glorious surroundings filled with new adventures on the home front. Back to regular musical rehearsals and gigs for Mr. C., and new recipes to try and write about for me. And back to our fuzzy family members – Miles, Max, and Squeaky and to the joy we always find from spending time with our dear friends. All in all, life for us is good. We are incredibly lucky to still be able to travel and never take the opportunities we have been given or the gifts we have received for granted.

I hope you have enjoyed this short narrative and the pictures from our trip. We had a wonderful time. But then, we always have a wonderful time. We simply make it happen.

Special thanks to Rick and Katie for their part in making this a terrific adventure. Can’t wait for the next trailer trip with you guys. And to our other traveling friends. Just let us know when and where, and we will be there if possible. Happy trails everyone.

BELIZE VACATION 2016 – FOUR FOR THE ROAD

Tourists at the Curve Bar

Four for the road at the Curve Bar, Sittee River

Thursday – 11/3/2016

Our traveling companions Mark and Vicki picked us up at 6:45 pm and off we proceeded to the airport. Our flight was scheduled to take off at 11:45 pm so we wanted to allow plenty of time to park the car, catch the car park shuttle, and arrive the required 2 hours ahead of time for check-in. And of course, because we had left home with time to spare, we made it to the airport with nary a traffic problem, car-park hiccup, or security hassle. In fact we were at our gate by 9:00 pm, way too early. So off we went in search of a drink and a nosh.

We were seated on the airplane and ready to take off at 11:45 pm when the captain announced that takeoff would be delayed because of a medical emergency.  So we were 25 minutes late getting off the ground. Then after spending 3 or so hours in the Houston airport, we left an hour late due to a problem with a fuel pump. (I can forgive safety concern delays. It’s the delays caused by someone trying to board the plane who is “sick” (aka medical emergency) because of an obvious hangover that brings out the “throw the turkey in jail” response in me!) But after 2 hours and a semi-rough flight, we landed safely at the Belize airport

Unless you have experienced high humidity, you really can’t appreciate all the stories you hear and read about it until you step off a plane and into a sauna. And what was it doing outside? Well, of course, it was raining! (Wait a minute – we came here for the sun, or so I thought at the time. I later discovered that clouds were my friend, but that’s a story for later in the narrative!) So after buying gin for Mark and me and 12 year old Scotch for Mr. C. and Vicki at the duty free store, we headed outside to find that Mark had already collected our rental car. So off we headed to our destination – Hopkins. Mark in the driver’s seat and Mr. C. as shotgun/navigator.

Before I go any further, I must tell you about the roads. There are only 4 paved highways in all of Belize and we were lucky enough to hit them all! The Northern, Western, Southern, and Hummingbird highways. And just so you’ll know what we got ourselves into by renting a car, let me describe a Belizean highway for you. Two lanes, most of the time, unless the road narrows to a one lane decaying cement bridge basically designed for a Smart Car or Mennonite horse drawn wagon.

One-lane bridges

One-lane bridges

And traffic control bumps, signed (if the sign is still in place that is) as pedestrian ramps, speed bumps, or speed humps.

There were all varieties of speed bumps, lumps, humps, and "pedestrian ramps"

There were all varieties of speed bumps, lumps, humps, and “pedestrian ramps”

These bumps appeared at every approach to or retreat from settlements along the highway, in front of every school (mostly private Christian schools BTW), as well as shortly before bus stops. Sometimes the bumps were rather benign. Sometimes they took on huge proportion. Sometimes, even though signed, there were no bumps at all. Not nice! So of course, we were never quite sure how slowly we should approach these speed limitation devices because they were craftily constructed at various heights and widths. So throughout our trip, whoever was driving had to constantly hear a litany of “bumps” from the three passengers in the car. Then to make driving even more interesting, once you left the “highway”, you were not only challenged with bumps, you were besieged with potholes. Some of which were large enough to swallow a small manatee. (More about manatees to come.)

On secondary and lesser roads (some paved, some not) after a rain, there were actually puddles that covered the entire roadway. And of course because we couldn’t see through the water, we never knew whether or not we were not only fording a small pond, but crossing an area with multiple potholes. Never a dull moment for the lucky person behind the wheel.

I should also say a few words about road lines while I’m on the subject of roads. You know, those white and yellow painted areas that help you safely navigate the treachery of ditches, not running into power and light poles, or meeting a vehicle head on, etc. etc. Actually only one word is necessary to describe the whole road line situation – rare! We didn’t really realize how rare until our last evening in Belize as we were returning from our visit to Xunantunich. (Read all about Xunantunich on the entry for Tuesday, November 15th) Before that evening, we had either been back in our room before dark, walked back to our room from a nearby restaurant, or driven through Hopkins where street lights were prevalent.

So here we are, driving home from an exciting but tiring day, its late afternoon/early evening, and we are suddenly driving at dusk amid pedestrians, bicycles, cars, buses, trucks, horse drawn wagons, etc. with no lines to tell us if we are about to veer off the road or into the oncoming lane. And to make things even more hazardous, there was a thin mist or fog to further obscure the driver and white-knuckled passenger’s vision. So crawling up the back of a dump truck or horse-drawn wagon, or colliding with a pedestrian or bicycle driver was an ever present possibility. Plus, and this too was unexpected, the low beams on our rental vehicle were damn near worthless. The high beams were fine, but there were way too many oncoming vehicles to reap any real benefit.

I would like to say that our drive home from the Mayan ruins was pleasant, but it definitely was not! I would have kissed the sandy ground when we arrived safe and sound at the Carrie Bow suite at Buttonwood Guest House in Hopkins, but I was afraid of getting sand fly bites on my lips! (These darling little critters are known as sand fleas to us, but in Belize they are referred to as sand flies. Regardless of what they are called, they are nasty little beasties and their bite itches for days!)

I already mentioned that our first destination upon arrival was the small village of Hopkins.

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We decided to stay in Hopkins because this rural and not too touristy village was comprised of both the Garifuna and Mayan people. And we had all agreed ahead of time that we wanted to stay as close to a cultural center as possible.

The Garifuna, a people of mixed indigenous Caribbean and African descent, who make up about 11% of the country’s population, trace their history back to the island of St. Vincent, one of the Windward Islands in the eastern Caribbean.

At the time of Columbus’s landing in the Americas, the island of St. Vincent in the Lesser Antilles had recently been settled by people from the South American mainland who had subdued the previous inhabitants, the Arawaks. Then in 1635, two Spanish ships carrying slaves from Nigeria to Spanish colonies in America were wrecked off St. Vincent and the survivors took refuge on the island. The Caribs and Africans instantly clashed, but over the centuries, the descendants figured out how to live together peacefully, married, raised children and became jointly known as Garifuna. According to tradition, the first Garifuna arrived in Belize, then British Honduras, on November 19th, 1802. This day is now a national holiday in Belize celebrated with drumming, dancing and pageantry. The Garifuna people still embrace their own language, but it is the rare villager who doesn’t speak English. The village of Hopkins and surrounding towns are also home to many Mayans. All the inhabitants of this region seem to have adapted well to living with each other and we witnessed no discrimination. Everyone seemed happy, healthy, and eager to make our visit as pleasant as possible.

A little about our accommodations in Hopkins. Vicki had done a lot or reading beforehand and suggested that we book only one accommodation for our entire stay. We all agreed on Hopkins because the places and things we were most interested in seeing and doing were fairly close. None of us were scuba divers or had any desire to spend all our time lying on a beach applying sun screen every 30 minutes. So staying on one of the tourist islands in the barrier reef was totally out of the question. As I stated above, we wanted to expose ourselves to the culture of the country. So Hopkins, with its central location and cultural heritage was the perfect place for us. So we rented a 2 bedroom suite with a full kitchen.

Our beach

Our beach

our beach

Our beach

Our apartment

Our apartment

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our roof top deck

Our roof top deck

Moon over the water right in front of our suite

Moon over the water right in front of our suite

The kitchen was actually quite well appointed. Our only surprise in our rented unit was the air conditioning situation. The air conditioning units were operated automatically, and only offered us relief from the oppressive humidity from 6:30 pm to 6:30 am. Apparently electricity is very costly in Belize. If we had known better, we would have paid the additional $10 a day to run the air conditioners continuously (or at least when we were in the suite). But none of us had enough experience with heat and humidity and were too tired when we checked in to make the decision to pay the extra charge. Knowing what I know now, I would have paid the additional charge in the time it took to swat a sand fly. Just as an example of how hot and muggy it was; when we got out of our nice air conditioned car, our glasses would steam up!

A note about the bumps labeled “Pedestrian Ramps” mentioned above. Since these bumps were everywhere along the road and every vehicle had to approach and cross the bumps at low speed, small merchandise stands set up right next to the bumps festooned the countryside. At these stands you could buy everything from coconut water and fresh corn, to fresh fruit and homemade tamales. Talk about curbside service!

Also, it was not at all uncommon to see men walking along the roads with machetes in their hands or hanging from their belts. Or to see the men using their machetes out in the fields or even just in their front yards. And even though machetes can be used as lethal weapons, I felt no fear seeing them being carried about. In Belize they were merely a necessary tool, not an overt weapon.

Note to self: add extra air to your list of lessons learned for the next time you visit a tropical country!

Friday – 11/4/2016 

Lest you haven’t already ascertained that the roads in Belize were in very poor condition, let me further inform you that even the “main” roads sometimes had potholes.  And on many of the secondary roads, pavement was apparently forbidden, while huge numbers of potholes were obviously encouraged. And on every road, lots of pedestrians who appeared to suffer from late stage death wishes, truck drivers with gambling inclinations (they loved to pass on curves), suicidal bus drivers, and as already stated, speed bumps designed to insure that shock absorber shop owners could easily send their children to college!

And every contrivance known to man was to be found on the motorways, including horse drawn wagons belonging to the Mennonites. We never saw a dog cart, but it wouldn’t have surprised me a bit!

Now at this point, I must defend our choice of renting a car, regardless of all the trials and tribulations associated with said action. We were free to go anywhere we chose. We could visit areas of the country we would never have been able to visit without our own four wheels, and we got to enjoy some terrific rhetoric mainly at the driver’s expense. (Life just doesn’t get much better than that, right?!?!) We estimate that we drove about 850 miles while we were in Belize. And this doesn’t even count the time our car spent in the air from being driven over speed bumps at a high rate of speed! (Not on purpose I assure you!)

We arrived at our guesthouse after first taking a couple of turns through the town (and I use the term “town” lightly). Not really a town as much as a village. Real people living in real homes. Lots of kids and everyone smiling and saying hello. Restaurants which, in many cases, were nothing more than converted home porches remodeled into service kitchens. The dining areas were often just an extension with open sides and a thatch roof.

At Scotchy's, a Jamaican restaurant

At Scotchy’s, a Jamaican restaurant

Very casual, but serving fresh food in a very inviting environment. And no such thing as “fast” food! Every dish was prepared as needed. And always fresh juices on the menu – orange, lime, watermelon, pineapple, and even sorrel at one restaurant. (Sorrel juice is made from the flowers of a member of the hibiscus family. The taste is best described as a unique sweet-sour, mellow pleasant, cranberry-like.)

Our first evening in Hopkins we decided to dine at a small restaurant (The Gecko), owned and operated by a Canadian couple from Toronto. There were only 5 tables outdoors, and the small indoor area was comprised of just a tiny bar with a few bar stools. The outdoor area patrons were all tourists or ex-pats, eating quietly and displaying their best manners. The real fun seemed to be coming from the bar! That’s where the regulars hung out. And they were obviously having a great time. Much laughter was heard. The highlight of the dinner was an appetizer called “Gecko Balls”. And on the menu, in good sized print, appeared a statement to the effect that “no Geckos were harmed in the making of these balls”. The balls were deep fried coconut rice balls served with a BBQ sauce. Absolutely delicious. Very much like an Italian Arancini only with coconut as one of the ingredients.

Then it was home to an early bedtime since none of us had been able to get any quality sleep on the flights down. So after a good 10-12 hour sleep, we began our first full day in Belize – 11/5/2016

Saturday – 11/5/2016

Woke up around 9:00 am desperately needing a cup of coffee. OK, every morning I awaken desperately needing a cup of coffee, but I was especially in need this morning. While all of us were drinking our coffee on our own private lanai, Matthew, one of the resort workers came by to offer us each our own fresh coconut. Well, when in Rome, or in Belize, of course we said yes. So we watched while he climbed a coconut tree (yes climbed the tree, bare feet and all) in the back yard of the guest house.

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He harvested several immature coconuts while he was at it, and one “ripe” coconut.

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Then back down on the ground he explained about the different uses of immature and mature coconuts as he was using his machete to lop off the top and bottom of 4 immature coconuts.

7 green and 1 ripe coconuts

7 green and 1 ripe coconuts

Matthew

Matthew

Immature coconuts are a light caramel color, whereas mature coconuts are a dark brown and smaller. Mature coconuts are used in cooking, while the immature coconuts are cut for the water.

Vicki's turn

Vicki’s turn

So each of us received our own fresh coconut, served with a straw, accompanied by Matthew’s invitation to add a splash or two of coconut rum if so desired.

Andy, enjoying some rum-enhanced coconut water

Andy enjoying some rum-enhanced coconut water

Mr. C. of course had to try his “water” adequately laced with coconut rum. (Well it’s traditional to drink your coconut water with rum. And Mr. C., ever the polite tourist, was not going to fly in the face of a well-established Belizean tradition! In other words, he took one for the team!)

The “water” was not real sweet, nor did it taste very much like coconut. I, in all my naivety, thought the coconut would be filled with coconut milk. Wrong! Coconut milk comes from combining water with grated coconut, then pressing it together with your hands, wringing out the liquid, then placing the grated coconut meat in a colander and letting the “milk” drain into a container. What’s left is merely fiber, which is lovingly referred to in Belize as “trash”. (Gives new meaning to “please take out the trash dear”, that’s for sure!) Apparently all the oils and flavor are removed in the making of coconut “milk”.  The “trash” is then either fed to farm animals or used as compost. (The grated coconut that we buy in stores has not been used to make coconut milk, so therefore it still retains its flavor and oil.)

After our coconut water experience and way past time for food, Tina the owner and chef of Tina’s Restaurant was busily making coconut milk when we arrived at 11:00 am. So we had a chance to witness this process in person. (Little did we know we’d be making our own coconut milk just a few days later.)

Tina’s restaurant was only a block and a half from our guest house. The close proximity to our lodging and the fact that the sign board outside the restaurant advertised Fry Jack were both compelling reasons to let this lovely Garifuna woman cook for us. We had read about Fry Jack in our Rough Guide to Belize and on the internet. It was highly touted as one of the food items we simply had to try while we were in Belize. So of course, we really wanted to experience Fry Jack. Fry Jack is basically fried bread dough, not unlike Navaho fry bread, and every bit as delicious. And even though the breakfast hour was officially over when we arrived at the restaurant, Tina fixed us breakfast regardless. And it was absolutely delicious. I ordered one of the standard items off the breakfast menu – 4 pieces of Fry Jack, fried fresh barracuda fillets with salsa, and refried beans. OMG, I could happily eat one of Tina’s breakfasts every other morning for the rest of my life! And all for the whopping sum of $10 US. (BTW – US dollars were gladly accepted everywhere we went. The exchange rate was 2 to 1. So if the menu stated breakfast was $14, we were actually paying 7 dollars US. And worth every penny I might add.

While we were finishing our breakfast a pickup truck stopped in front of the restaurant. The two gentlemen who got out of the truck were selling fresh fish. We watched as Tina sorted through the entire catch, choosing only the fish she felt were worthy of her cooking expertise. And as we were finishing our breakfast, we were entertained by Tina’s daughter as she used a large sharp knife to scrape the scales off the newly purchased fish. (I must say, I would not have even let my children near an implement of destruction like that knife when they were this little girl’s age, much less use it! Different cultures, different circumstances, different expectations, different necessities!)

A bit about the food we enjoyed while in Belize. Beans and rice are a staple of the Garifuna and Mayan peoples.

Lunch at Monkey River

Lunch at Monkey River – red beans, rice, and fried barricuda

The beans, red kidney beans, are grown locally on cleared jungle slopes mainly on large farms owned and farmed by the Mennonites. (Often referred to by the locals as “Moneynites). The rice (white) is grown in the northern part of Belize. Rice and beans are served in combination, or as separate dishes. I personally loved the beans served like Mexican refried beans. They were absolutely delicious.

We also ate a lot of Barracuda and other types of fish. Mainly I would categorize the food in the area we visited as Mexican influenced with fresh fish (including lobster), fruit, and vegetables (often in the form of coleslaw or pico de gallo) with a smattering of Jamaican in the form of jerk chicken and pork thrown in for good measure. Tortillas, both corn and flour were usually available breakfast, lunch, and dinner. And of course – Fry Jack.

After breakfast/brunch we decided to visit a couple of places on our “must see” list. But first, a visit to our local grocery store for a few provisions. Breakfast supplies, paper towels, cookies, and of course the obligatory vacation treat – Cheetos!

So with a refrigerator and larder full of supplies, off we proceeded to a chocolate centre. We wanted to take a tour of a cocoa plantation and a class to learn how to make our own chocolate bars. Well, tours were not offered on weekends, so we made a reservation to take a tour and make a chocolate bar on Monday.

Next we drove to Marie Sharpe’s hot sauce facility for a tour of her factory. As it was explained to us by Mariano, our unofficial waiter and provider of valuable information at Tina’s restaurant, Marie was recently inducted into the International (actually intergalactic) Hot Sauce hall of fame. Belize invest.net or Marie Sharpe for more info.

Anyway, Marie’s facility wasn’t open either! So we are now at 2 strikes. So next we decided to visit the Sittee River area because the area is known for having Toucans in every tree. Not a Toucan in sight! But what we did find was a great bar right on the river.

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View up the Sittee river from the Curve Bar

View up the Sittee river from the Curve Bar

So after 3 strikes on places and things we wanted to see, we commiserated over drinks and an appetizer before we headed home to lick our wounds and assuage our dashed hopes with liquor and more food.

When we arrived home, we spent a nice hour or so catching up on our reading, internet surfing and generally enjoying each other’s company. For dinner we headed out to the resort where Mariano (unofficial waiter at Tina’s) was the bartender. The fanciest place we had seen so far. The food was only adequate, then it was home again to do some more reading and partake of a little night cap. When we walked in our door, a small gecko was on one of the walls in our suite. Upon seeing us he hid under a brightly colored hammock that was being used as a wall decoration. He took one look at us, thought tourists, and to the best of my knowledge is still under the decorative hammock wondering if life was really worth living if all you had to look forward to was the company of foreigners!

Sunday – 11/6/2016

It being Sunday, and not knowing whether or not restaurants were open, we decided to fix breakfast in our suite. So I got out the frying pan, slapped some bacon in it, and about 10 minutes later the bacon was happily draining on a paper towel lined dinner plate. Next raisin bagels into the toaster and strangled eggs (some people refer to them as scrambled eggs) on the stove. Nice homemade breakfast. After breakfast we decided to head for the town of Placencia to while away our Sunday afternoon. But to get there, we must first drive over the Maya Beach Isthmus aka Merry Isthmus (I kid you not) to reach our destination.

Proof that the isthmas is called "Merry Isthmas" by the locals

Proof that the isthmas is called “Merry Isthmas” by the locals

Modern Mayan ruin - entrance to a banana plantation

Modern Mayan “ruin” – entrance to a banana plantation

Holding up concrete forms with sticks

Holding up concrete forms with sticks

Home being built in a high-end housing development on our way to Placencia

Home being built in a high-end housing development on our way to Placencia

"Moat" around the housing development

“Moat” around the housing development – OK, maybe just a way to bring boats to the individual homes, but it sure looked like a moat to us!

The town of Placencia is perched at the end of a peninsula. The town is charming. It is shaded by palm trees, cooled by sea breezes, and the day we visited, drenched by a torrential rain storm! So we did what every other Northwest Washington foursome would do in our place. We turned around without even getting out of the car!

This dead boat was tied to a dock in Placencia, the same town where we would later in the trip book a water tour. This proves we are a) dumber than stumps, b) crazy, c) adventurous, d) all of the above!

This dead boat was tied to a dock in Placencia, the same town where later in the trip we would book a water tour. This proves we are a) dumber than stumps, b) crazy, c) adventurous, d) all of the above

At this point in our travels we had as yet to experience a sunny day. But that was just fine as it turned out. Because when the sun does show its face, it’s hotter than a hibiscus. Consequently, every cloud that shields a person from the blazing sun on a super-hot and humid day becomes a blessing rather than a curse. Speaking of hibiscus, they were absolutely beautiful. (Some of the other flowers weren’t so bad either!)

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Now of course, we are all avid eaters. So on our way to the Placencia, but still at the southern end of the isthmus, we passed an Indian restaurant. All of us being East Indian food lovers, we decided we could easily enjoy a lovely bit of Indian food for lunch. So on our return trip back down the peninsula, we stopped at Tiger’s Restaurant (self-proclaimed – best Indian food ever!). Unfortunately, Tiger’s Restaurant was under renovation to become a “Mexican street-food eatery”. But Tiger himself recommended that when we reached the village of Maya Beach, we should eat at the Maya Beach Hotel and Bistro. According to Tiger, this restaurant had the best food in Belize! He told us to tell the staff – Tiger sent us. So, based on his recommendation and following his instructions, we drove through Maya Beach, and after passing the Chinese restaurant on the left, we were to look for lots of cars parked along the road on the right. We easily found our destination, parked our car, and headed into the restaurant. As we were being seated, we told the waitress that Tiger sent us. Her response was – which one? So there is more than one “Tiger” in this tiny community? Anyway – it was a lovely restaurant right on the beach, with a menu that set our taste buds on high alert. Everything was delicious, but the winning dish was ordered by Vicki. It was a lobster and cheese grilled sandwich with a not too spicy pumpkin dip. OMG – amazing! No idea what the cheese was. Not like cheddar, just extremely melty. Not stringy or greasy either. Just delectable. And to top off the sandwich, very thinly sliced grilled onions. Absolutely over the top delicious.

After our wonderful and filling late lunch, we came upon a stand near the turn off to Hopkins selling homemade tamales. We purchased 4 for our dinner. We knew we would not be hungry for a large dinner, so something small like a tamale would be just perfect. I would love to say the tamales were fantastic. We ate them, but they were a bit scary. The orange filling was strange, especially at the center where there were small pieces of chicken complete with bones. The outside, which we assumed would be like the masa we all knew and loved, had kind of a gelatinous consistency with very little flavor. For dessert each couple shared a coconut muffin. These were very dense, with mashed banana in the middle. Not much flavor, but a gut bomb if I ever ate one. Again, quite unusual. We all toddled off to bed that night hoping that we wouldn’t be racing for the shared bathroom at 2:00 am in the morning. But we all survived, but decided not to buy any more tamales from street vendors.

Monday – 11/7/2016

After living through the night and all intestinal problem free in the morning, we enjoyed our morning cup of coffee then headed out to Tina’s for breakfast. I was ready for some more fish and Fry Jack. But Tina’s was closed so we continued through town to find an open dining establishment. We decided on Virge’s Kitchen. Not a swanky place, just a covered area with a kitchen in the back. The entire time we were waiting for our food we were entertained by the owner/cook’s two little girls, ages roughly 3 and 4. Both girls were endearing and a pain in the bucket at the same time. After about 30 minutes, included in which the father of the chef had to make two short bike trips to the local grocery store for ingredients, we had our food. FYI: There is no such thing as a speedy meal in Belize, or at least in the area of Belize that we visited. Believe me, I am not complaining. You just have to plan your time commitments accordingly. So, breakfast accomplished, we set off for our 11:00 am appointment to tour a cocoa plantation and make a chocolate bar.

Narciso, our guide at the plantation was a very friendly and knowledgeable Mayan gentleman.

Narcico

Narciso

He showed us young cacao trees that were only a year old, and older trees that were bearing fruit. The young trees were interspersed in an orchard with blighted orange trees. Narciso explained that he had grown oranges on his land for decades before the orange blight hit. He felt his only choice since his orange trees had been devastated, was to grow cacao trees even though farming cacao was a much more labor intensive process. But as he further explained, one has to make a living.  And being a small two-man (he and his son) operation, he felt growing cocoa for chocolate was his best alternative. But back to our tour.

Cacao pods grow on the trunk of the tree.

Cacao pods

Cacao pods

And they never fall off of their own accord. When the pods are mature, if the squirrels, bush dogs, and woodpeckers have not already broached the pods for the beans/seeds, farm workers have to cut the pods off the tree trunk individually. The people who harvest the pods have to be extremely careful because if the pods are cut off too close to the trunk, that spot will never again bear fruit.

The harvested pods are then cracked open, typically with a machete, to expose the beans.

Cocoa beans wth all the "trimmings"

Cocoa beans with all the “trimmings”

I think I was most surprised by what was inside the pod. A cacao pod (fruit) has a rough, leathery rind about ¾ to 1-inch thick and is filled with a sweet, thick,  gluey pulp enclosing 30 to 50 large beans/seeds that are fairly soft and a pale lavender to dark brownish purple in color. The pulp and cacao seeds are removed and the outer rind  discarded. The pulp and seeds are then heaped in piles, placed in bins, or laid out on grates for several days. During this time, the seeds and pulp undergo “sweating” where the thick pulp liquefies as it ferments. The fermented pulp trickles away, leaving cocoa seeds behind to be collected. Sweating is important for the quality of the beans. If sweating is interrupted, the resulting cocoa may be ruined; if underdone, the cocoa seed maintains a flavor similar to raw potatoes and becomes susceptible to mildew. Due to heat buildup in the fermentation process, cacao beans lose most of the purplish hue and become mostly brown in color, with an adhered skin which includes the dried remains of the fruity pulp. This skin is released easily after roasting. About 400 dried beans are required to make one pound of chocolate. (No wonder good chocolate is so darned expensive!)

Please note: cocoa and cacao seem to be used interchangeably; as are seeds and beans.

After leaving the plantation we went to a one room production room to make our own chocolate bars. Julio, the owner of the chocolate business encouraged us to help grind the nibs and take part in actually making our candy bars.

Julio

Julio

One happy lady is our Vicki

One happy lady is our Vicki

Another happy lady in the kitchen

Another happy lady in the kitchen using a traditional Mayan mortar and pestle

So using a mortar and pestle to grind the nibs (roasted cocoa beans broken into small pieces), then adding sugar and cocoa butter, we each made our own chocolate bar. We all found the texture of the chocolate to be a bit grainy, but the flavor – excellent!

It was a lot of fun making our own chocolate bars mainly because Julio was quite the guy. He was a Mayan miniature version of Danny DeVito, but with dark skin, hair, a fabulous sense of humor, and a smile that lit up the room. In addition to being a chocolatier, Julio was an inventor. He was very candid about not having enough money to buy expensive equipment for making chocolate on any kind of grand scale. So when in need, he built his own equipment. For example, his cocoa bean grinder was powered by both motors from a disassembled washing machine. Very entertaining man was our Julio, and amazingly ingenious! Truly a renaissance man.

As amazing as Julio appeared, he was not that uncommon. Most of the people we had the good fortune to spend any amount of time with, were clever, smart, well educated (maybe not formally, but never-the-less well informed), and resourceful. And everyone we met shared the one attribute I consider necessary to live in today’s world, be it first world, or third world as in Belize. A good sense of humor. Everyone we met laughed a great deal, and showed no hesitation in bantering back and forth with us in a joking and playful manner. Absolutely delightful. The citizens of Belize made us feel welcome, and even more important, valued as fellow human beings. If only we Americans could feel and treat other ethnicities with as much grace and humanity. When people ask me why I love to travel, it’s hard for me to explain that mostly it’s to feel, for even a short time, like I’m a part of another culture. That I am more than just a US citizen, but rather a citizen of the world. I have learned more about gracious living and the true meaning of happiness from the people in some of the countries I have visited, than I would ever have imagined. As a result, I feel truly blessed to have had the opportunity to grow in my awareness of what constitutes true happiness. And from what I have witnessed, it has nothing to do with money or worldly goods. It seems to stem mainly from the relationships we humans make with those around us. And when you meet someone, as we did from the remote village of Monkey River, who told us how much he wanted his child to have the same advantages he had as a child, you know that money has nothing to do with a person’s quality of life. It mainly has to do with how one lives his or her life. And how much one can give to, rather than take from his fellow man, even if all that can be offered is friendship and civility. But back to our adventure with chocolate.

While we were at the chocolate facility, we also sampled cocoa wine (tasted more like vinegar to me if truth be told). Would have been delicious as an ingredient in a salad dressing along with some olive oil, a little Dijon mustard, clove or two of garlic, salt, and pepper. Just sayin’. So after experiencing chocolate making (and eating) and saying good-bye and thank-you to our new friend, we decided some “real” food was in order. So we headed for Dangriga.

Dangriga is the largest town in southern Belize. It is also the main cultural center of the Garifuna. We drove around the town for a short time, but what we really needed was nourishment! What we found was a fairly modern restaurant with everything on the menu from pork chops to lo mein. Fairly decent food, but not at all what we were expecting. We were still wanting more traditional Garifuna cuisine. But when you’re really hungry, you pretty much eat anything that doesn’t eat you first!

After lunch we stopped at a vegetable and fruit stand. We decided we needed fruit. So we bought a large cantaloupe, some sliced pineapple, a couple of bananas, and I can’t remember what else. Then back to Hopkins to chill out on the upper deck of our guest house for the rest of the afternoon. Met the owners, Tony and Tracy from Atlanta, and spent a lovely hour or so watching the Frigate birds drift over our heads and the alpenglow on the clouds over the barrier reef turn lovely shades of pink.

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When you are as close to the equator as we were, it gets dark very quickly when the sun goes down. So 2½ minutes after the sun set it was dark. (OK, 2½ minutes may be a slight exaggeration, but it really does get quite dark in a very short time. Has something to do with the sun setting perpendicular to the horizon at low latitudes.) Then down to our apartment, a before dinner drink, and a long arduous 2 minute walk to our dining destination.

Dinner was at The Gecko restaurant again. And as before, our food was wonderful. Mark and Vicki shared what I believe was the house specialty, a 1 lb. Jamaican spiced pork chop. They both raved about the flavor and actually ordered it again the last time we dined at this casual, café style restaurant. After dinner, James the chef and owner came to our table and we had a lovely conversation about life in Belize. He and his wife were both from Toronto although he had a Jamaican accent from his mother’s side. Just a charming, erudite gentleman. Absolutely comfortable in his own skin. Long dreadlocks and a killer smile. We asked him if he missed Canada. Having come from a very sophisticated urban environment, among other things he missed cheese shops, specialty gourmet food shops, and especially good beef. Cattle are not raised for eating in Belize. Even if they are slaughtered, the meat is not aged, so it is tough and very lean. So the main thing James missed was a truly delicious thick marbled medium rare steak.

After talking with James for about 30 minutes, we walked the short block and a half back to our apartment at the Buttonwood. We read and surfed the internet for a short while, then off to bed. Another fun day in Belize. I guess I should mention that there are bugs in Belize. I’m sure you already knew that, but I felt it only fair to speak about the downside of vacationing in a country which is comprised mainly of jungle and rainforest. But more about bugs later on.

Tuesday – November 8, (election day) 2016

After a stay-at-home breakfast of bacon, strangled eggs, raisin bagel, and fresh fruit salad, we headed off to our scheduled Garifuna drumming lesson.

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For an hour we went through several drumming patterns on Garaon drums. The patterns we learned were – Punta – versions 1 & 2, Paranda – variations 1 & 2, and Watine, variations 1, 2, & 3. And just because I know you are wondering how we did, let me put it as succinctly as possible. Andy and Mark – like they’d been drumming all their life; Vicki and Patti – we had fun! That pretty much sums it up!

Our drumming instructor

Our drumming instructor – Jabar

Hands on demonstration (so to speak!)

Hands on demonstration (so to speak!)

It takes concentration - no doubt about it!

It takes concentration – no doubt about it!

One more instrument for Mark to add to his list of achievements - awesome!

One more instrument for Mark to add to his list of achievements – awesome!

After drumming we did a little shopping at the local market and then off to find Charlie the birdman.

Charlton Castillo, aka Charlie the bird man

Charlton Castillo, aka Charlie the bird man

We had been told that Charlie was the man to see for a bird shooting expedition. Now before you get all hot and bothered, we had no intention of using guns in our quest for birds. We would only be armed with cameras so none of our avian brothers and sisters would be harmed in the adventure. Well, I suppose they could get their nose/beak out of joint if we didn’t film them from what they considered to be their “best” side. But that would be the extent of their discomfort.

Next we headed to Palmento Grove to schedule cooking classes for Hudut (Wednesday morning) and (Thursday morning) Belizean Black Fruit Cake.

After setting our appointments, we headed out to take a tour of Marie Sharpe’s hot sauce plant. Unfortunately there were no tours being offered that day, but the tasting room and store were open. So we tasted and we purchased.

At this point we decided to search out some lunch. Food always helps, especially after ones plans have been thwarted! (We were really looking forward to a hot sauce plant tour.) After lunch at Bahay Fiesta we stopped at the Garamaya Gift Shop. Vicki and I had fun at this gift shop! I found my apron! (Always have to buy an apron as a souvenir.) Also found some other lovely items to bring home as gifts and mementos of our trip.

Got back to our room and were accosted by 4 little ones who hung around with us on our lanai until Mark gave them $5.00 to basically “get the hell out of here”. The money was handed over in the guise of a donation to support one of the boys’ soccer team. Of course we knew the money would soon be consumed in the form of candy. But OK. We liked candy when we were little ones too. In addition, Vicki gave the only girl in the mob some colored pencils and paper. The girl looked like she had just won the lottery. After a little drinky-poo out on our lanai, we adjourned to the living room to read, surf the web, write about our experiences, and bask in the glow of our living room air conditioner.

Later, we decided to go down to hear the drumming concert that had been arranged to entertain a group of Canadians who had come down to Belize to volunteer in the local national park. We had been invited by our drumming instructor after our class. But when we got to the Driftwood Bar (the best pizza in town) there was nowhere to sit and after about 3 minutes of hearing the drummers and singers, I was ready to leave anyway. So off we went to Tina’s, our local restaurant for a nice dinner and quiet evening.

Wednesday – 11/9/2016  

After sitting around drinking coffee and discussing the election we headed out for breakfast before going to our Hudut class. At 9:30 we arrived at Palmento Grove. At the entrance, a hollowed-out shell of a concrete-block building was festooned with large Iguanas basking in the sun. These were later identified as Ctenosaurs, a.k.a. Spinytail Iguanas.

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At first they looked like they were made out of the same material as the derelict building. But our instructor Eugene assured us they were real. And sure enough, as soon as he informed us that they were cold blooded and breathing, they seemed to come to life before our very eyes.

Instead of being just a cooking lesson, our class turned out to be a cultural tour of Garifuna history. After learning a bit about the history of the people of Belize we started our cooking adventure. We thought we would be learning how to make Hudut as it is prepared today. Instead, we were taught the traditional method, which in case you were wondering, is never going to happen in my kitchen! No offence to Eugene, but I don’t happen to have an open fire pit in my kitchen! And God gave me a food processor for a reason, which incidentally, I plan to continue using!

Basically Hudut is a Belizean mashed plantains and fish stew, the base of which is coconut milk. So we hulled and cracked mature coconuts, grated the flesh, made our own coconut milk, and then prepared the coconut broth. Meanwhile we peeled both ripe and green plantains and threw them into boiling water to cook over the open wood fire. We also added fresh okra to the pot towards the end of the plantain cooking time. (Don’t want your okra over cooked, right?)

Plantains on the hoof (so to speak)

Plantains on the hoof (so to speak)

Two happy ladies about to take a cooking class. My darling outfit was provided as an apron for the class.

Two happy ladies about to take a cooking class. My darling outfit was provided as an apron for the class.

Picking my beverage of choice right off the tree

Picking my beverage of choice right off the tree

Eugen made husking a coconut look easy

Eugen made husking a coconut look easy

Not so much!

Patti, not so much!

 

Not to worry - Andy's using the blunt end of the knife!

Not to worry – Andy’s using the blunt end of the hatchet to crack open our coconut!

Weapon of mass destruction, that is if you happen to be coconut meat!

Weapon of mass destruction, that is if you happen to be coconut meat!

Go Vicki go!

Go Vicki go!

Coconut milk anyone?

Coconut milk anyone?

Eugene hard at work

Eugene hard at work

Team effort

Team effort

Plantain masher

Plantain masher

Mark still hard at work

Mark hard at work mashing plantains

Next?

Next?

Fish fry anyone?

Fish fry anyone?

The final product

The final product

Into the coconut milk we added half a head of garlic, half an onion, a small amount of cilantro, and about 4 leaves of basil. (Way not enough.) Also, a bony piece of barracuda for additional flavor. That mixture lightly simmered for about 15 minutes over the wood fire. Finally the cooked plantains were mashed and several fillet of Barracuda were seasoned with a mix of herbs and spices similar to Old Bay Seasoning, granulated garlic, and black pepper, then fried in vegetable oil. (I almost mentioned to Eugene that a purchased seasoning mix and a large container of granulated garlic were probably not traditional ingredients, but why spoil the fun?)

To eat Hudut in the traditional manner, you dip the mashed plantains, cooked okra, and fried fish in the coconut milk broth with your hands. No utensils are sullied in the eating of this meal. Honestly, all in all, very underwhelming dish.

However, Vicki and I both being ladies who love to cook, decided right there and then that we could come up with our own versions. After we each try our hands at reinventing this dish, I will post the recipes on this blog. That is to say, of course, if we can turn out a coconut broth that doesn’t taste like warm dishwater! We plan to call our recipes:  Pseudo Hudut or Voodo Hudut or Son of Hudut or Hudut You Think You Are? or something to that effect! Stay tuned!

As I said, all four of us tried the Hudut, but to our sophisticated palates, it was less than desirable. After lunch, Vicki and I were to have taken a drumming lesson included with the total Hudut experience. The guys took our places however, because both of us were tired and my hands were still fatigued from our drumming lesson the day before.

But you know, the whole cooking class was worth learning just this one particular technique for adding flavor to a dish without adding too much heat. When preparing a liquid base calling for a chili pepper such as a jalapeño or habanero, throw the whole pepper in the broth. (No more seeding, de-veining and chopping.) That way the amount of heat can be regulated by however long you allow the chili to bask in the hot liquid. When you feel you have reached the right level of heat, pull the whole darn chili out and discard. Smart, right? And to think I had to go all the way to Belize to learn this trick!

After our Hudut experience, we retired back to our apartment. Vicki enjoyed a 90 minute massage, while Mark, Andy, and I vegged on the thatch covered roof-top deck. Fantastic!

For dinner we headed down to The Curve Bar at Sittee River for fresh lobster. Unfortunately the lobster promised to the restaurant (and to us) did not arrive. But, I ordered lobster fritters anyway. OMG! They were absolutely delicious. There were 7 large fritters chock full of lobster served with a fabulous tartar sauce. In fact all of us were more than pleased with our dinner choices in this lovely river side setting.

Sun set as we were having dinner

Sun set as we were having dinner

Then home to read, surf the net, and read emails from friends all centered on the results of the election. Then off to bed.

FYI: We only ate in one air-conditioned restaurant the entire time we were in Belize. Most of the eating establishments were outdoors, usually with only 4-5 tables and covered with a thatch roof.

Thursday – 11/10/2016 (Mark’s birthday)

After breakfast at Thongs Café run by a Russian (we think) proprietress, Vicki and I arrived at Palmento Grove again for our Caribbean Black Fruit Cake class. It was so hot and humid when we arrived, I thought I would never survive. But our cake preparation lesson was given outdoors on the drumming stage. In comparison to the building where most cooking lessons were given, we were in paradise.

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Now black fruitcake has many similarities to the fruitcake we are all familiar with in that the batter has a lot of spices and booze. But there the comparison ends. If you are interested in the recipe for the cake we made, please find it at the bottom of this post. For the edited version with pictures only, please continue.

That's not a smile, it's really a grimace. I had been beating the batter for about 45 minutes and my arm was falling off

That’s not a smile, it’s really a grimace. I had been beating the batter for about 45 minutes when this picture was taken and my arm was falling off.

Owanie adding golden syrup to the batter

Owanie adding golden syrup to the batter

Owanie, the head fruit cake!

Owanie, the head fruit cake!

Looks good to me. (Anything to stop using that darn hand mixer!

Looks good to me. (Anything to stop using that darn hand mixer!)

Owanie mixing flour in with the drained fruit

Owanie mixing flour in with the drained fruit

Sprinkling fruit over the batter just before placing on the oven,

Sprinkling fruit over the batter just before placing in the oven

While the cakes were baking we went out for lunch, then returned to collect our precious keepsakes. As you may have gathered, the recipe made a lot of fruit cakes. Many more than just the 2 small cakes we took away with us. The rest of the batter was used to make several more cakes that our owner/teacher Owanie would be serving in her restaurant. After we left Palmento Grove, we spent the afternoon just lazing around.  Then off to The Gecko for dinner. And for Mark’s birthday cake – you guessed it. We sampled one of the Black Fruit Cakes. And I’m here to tell you, it was one of the best cakes I have ever tasted. And yes I will be making Black Fruit Cake for Christmas gifts this year. Truly out of this world. And yes, I will be scaling the recipe down to a reasonable proportion.

Friday – November 11, 2016

After a leisurely breakfast, we decided this was the day to go for a boating experience. So Kyra, the concierge for our guest house booked us on what she too believed would be a simple boat ride. Well, this simple boat ride turned out to be a boat ride out to the cayes (pronounced keys) to snorkel. This was a complete surprise to all of us. I didn’t have my bathing suit on, but what the heck, I’d gone swimming in my shorts before. So we all got fitted for fins and snorkels and walked down to the boat.

Mark and Vicki checking out the boat

Mark and Vicki checking out the boat

We learned that it would be a 45 minute ride (14 miles) with no cover on the boat. And then when we got there, very little shade for those who didn’t want to snorkel, or snorkel for only a short time. So Vicki and Mark decided this was not for them.

Mr. and Mrs. Carr off to visit the cayes

Mr. and Mrs. Carr off to visit the cayes

Andy and I decided to go for it, so after 45 minutes of vigorous pounding over the waves we went ashore at South Water Caye where we got our first ever snorkeling lesson. OMG – I loved it! You know the old saying “like a duck takes to water” – that was me. I put the mask and tube thingy on my head as well as flippers on my feet and I was ready to explore the ocean. Mr. C. on the other hand, was, in his own words “a spectacular failure at mastering the basics of breathing through a tube”. I decided then and there that when next I had the opportunity to snorkel (notice I said next time) I was going to make certain that I bought my own snorkel and then practiced beforehand at the local YMCA pool. But after deciding that I had had enough sun and Mr. C. had had enough salt water consumption, we told our instructors that we were ready to head back to the mainland. So back in the boat for another 45 minute back-breaking boat ride. We landed on the shore right in front of our guest house and I headed immediately for the shower. Since I had been wearing my regular clothes, I showered and did laundry all in one fell swoop. We then spent a couple hours reading, then off to dinner. After dinner it was early to bed because we had to be at Charlie the birdman’s place at 6:00 am the next morning.

BTW, my clothes were still wet the next morning. Perhaps the humidity?

Saturday – November 12, 2016

Let’s go birding! So after a quick cup of coffee and half a bagel we arrived at Charlie’s place right on the stroke of 6:00 am. But before leaving our rooms, we decided that since we were basically heading for the jungle, we ought to don our hazmat outfits. Do let me explain.

Before leaving home, all four of us selected a few items of clothing that would be sprayed with Permethrin, a Super Man strength bug repellent. If one can believe the statement on the Permethrin bottle/toxic-waste container, there wouldn’t be a self-respecting mosquito worth its various viruses that would come near us when we were wearing clothes sprayed with this product. Ticks would also be repelled. The scariest part of the entire ordeal was reading the warnings on the label of the Permethrin bottle. For example:

If inhaled,

1)      move person to fresh air (this implies that the person wouldn’t be able to move themselves)

2)      If person is not breathing, call 911 or an ambulance, then give artificial respiration, preferably mouth-to-mouth, if possible

3)      Call a poison control center or doctor for treatment advice

And that was just the warning for inhaling the fumes! After that there were also dire warnings if you swallowed the stuff or got it on your skin or in your eyes. (Refer to number 2 above, and then tell me why I would want to give anyone, even my own dear husband, mouth-to-mouth artificial respiration after readings the warnings about what happens to you if you swallow the stuff or get it on your skin!) But being folks that are not easily daunted (some would say stalwart or more to the point – crazy), we dressed ourselves carefully with gloves, masks, goggles, hats, and full body armor. Mark performed the ritualistic “save yourself from mosquito bites” task for his team and I sprayed the noxious hazmat cocktail on our clothes for team Carr.

Mark dressed to kill (or at least ward off) the dreaded mosquito

Mark dressed to kill (or at least ward off) the dreaded mosquito

Having accomplished this chore, it meant that each of us had a set of long pants, high collar and long sleeved shirts, hats, and socks that were packed separately and at the ready for anytime we suspected that mosquitos or ticks might rear their ugly heads. Or in the case of ticks, bury their ugly heads.

Now you do realize we only needed our hazmat clothing when we were going to the jungle/rainforest. Which BTW, seemed to be about 50% hotter than our balmy, ever present breezy home base. So here we are, in a virtual steam oven wearing clothes appropriate for life aboard the Polar Express! So by the last day that we thought it advisable to protect ourselves, I threw caution to the wind and wore my regular clothes. There simply comes a time when you just have to trust the Gods of good fortune to “watch your back” so to speak. Of course, I did slather my entire body in mosquito repellant before leaving the car. Another case of “trust but verify” which just so happens to be my new mantra. So thus dressed, we arrived at Charlie’s place where we transferred our cameras, binocs, purses etc. to his rented van.

Vicki by the side of the road capturing birds

Vicki by the side of the road capturing birds

One happy lady heading out to see even more birds

One happy lady heading out to see even more birds

We headed out over roads we had traveled several times before. Then we started inland (West) into the jungle and a much more densely vegetated area. During the course of the next 5 hours we saw many birds, plants, and even some indigenous critters. The Green Iguanas we came across were fantastic. Mature males can actually reach a length of 6 feet. As the male ages and his interests turn to love and procreation, he turns a lovely shade of orange during mating season. The female iguanas, on the other hand, are quite small and remain black.

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Immature male Green Iguana

Immature male Green Iguana

During our drive, we actually saw 55 types of birds including Toucans, Parrots, Parakeets, Tropical Mockingbirds, and one Baltimore Oriole. (Not kidding here folks, we saw a Baltimore Oriole, and no he did not have a mitt in his hand!)

Some of the birds we saw while in Belize.

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Pale-Vented Pigeon

Pale-Vented Pigeon

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Roseate spoonbills, Great Egrets, Jabiru Storks

Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

 

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Tropical Mockingbird

Great Kiskadee

Great Kiskadee

 

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Red-Lored Parrot

Two Plain Chachalacas

Two Plain Chachalacas

Not a bird or animal. It's a termite nest - yuk!

Not a bird or animal. It’s a termite nest – yuk!

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Collared Aracari

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Cattle Egret (+ cattle)

Great Egret

Great Egret

Juvenile Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

Juvenile Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

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Northern Jacanas and Great Egrets

Black-Necked Stilts

Black-Necked Stilts

Tricolor Heron

Tricolor Heron

Tricolored Heron, fishing

Tricolored Heron, fishing

Vermilion Flycatcher

Vermilion Flycatcher

Long-billed Dowitcher and Great Egret

Long-billed Dowitcher and Great Egret

After our amazing tour with Charlie, we headed out for breakfast/lunch and then back to the room for afternoon siestas. (No wonder not much gets done here in the afternoon. It’s just “Too Damn Hot”. )

Sunday – November 13, 2016

It’s Zoo day! So after a bacon, eggs, bagel, and yogurt breakfast cooked in our very own kitchen, we headed out on what turned out to be an amazing adventure.

The Belize Zoo is not in Belize City as I would have expected, but rather on its Southern outskirts. The zoo is a 2 hour drive from Hopkins via a circuitous inland route passing Belmopan, which interestingly enough has the smallest population of any capital city in the world.

We drove through the zoo arches and into the parking lot. There were only 7 cars in the lot. This was not at all what I was expecting. So after a cursory glance around the small area, my first thought was that we had yet to come to the official zoo parking lot or that the zoo wasn’t really open. But after determining that yes the zoo was open, and yes this was the parking lot, we parked our car, used the rest rooms and paid our money. Apparently there just weren’t many zoo visitors that day. Now you realize, I was not upset about us being virtually alone at the zoo. But then, anytime a tourist destination parking lot is not overrun with tour buses, I’m a happy camper.

We soon realized that this was a very small zoo, and I was kind of concerned that we had come a long way for nothing. Boy was I wrong! We started walking and after a couple of exhibits, a young man stopped us and told us that if we wanted to see a jaguar being fed, we should hurry along the path. When we arrived, we saw the jaguar immediately. He was in his enclosure, but he was circling a small cage containing 5 people. (My thought at first glance was that there was something mighty wrong with this picture! But I soon realized that the 4 visitors and one game keeper in the cage were there on purpose. Duh!)

The jaguar was performing for the caged people by doing somersaults and walking in circles. Then upon direction from the enclosed game keeper, this absolutely magnificent animal jumped on top of the cage and gladly accepted chicken necks from the hands of the people in the cage. As the jaguar was eating, the incarcerated people were invited to pet him, but warned to stay away from his head. Just watching, we were entranced.

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But what caused all of our jaws to drop was when Junior (the jaguar) licked the people’s foreheads through the wire on the top of the cage. The keepers called this raspy tongue gliding over foreheads – jaguar kisses. After Junior was put back in his small pen and the people were released from their cage, Junior was once again released into the large enclosure. At this point, it was a crowd of 5 observing Junior – the four of us and the keeper.  We hung around, watched Junior eat some more chicken and asked the poor game keeper a myriad of questions about this beautiful animal. After a bit he got the hint that we were all really enamored. So he offered us the chance to have our own close encounter. We jumped at the chance. (Vicki and I literally jumped at the chance. You would have thought we were 5 year olds jumping up and down excitedly after being told we were about to visit Santa Clause!) After a few minutes, and both of us having composed ourselves as much as possible, we were led into the enclosure. (BTW, this once in a life time adventure cost each of us $12.50 US. Unbelievable!)

Now please understand, while we were walking to our “cage”, the jaguar was safely residing in another cage. But once through the main enclosure fence, first ducking under an electric wire, and safely in our small cage, which is securely padlocked BTW, Junior was released. And of course he headed right for us. He knows the drill. Apparently Junior was born at the zoo and knows the ropes very well. I should mention that this is a rescue zoo. All of the animals, except the ones that were born on the premises, were rescue animals. None had been hunted and brought into captivity. They all had been either hurt, ill, or in some way in need of human assistance to survive. And their enclosures were not cement. They were natural floor to ceiling forest. But back to Junior.

After Junior performed his tricks on the jungle floor, he would always receive a piece of chicken as a reward. Then it was time for him to jump on the cage. If I live to be 105, I hope I never forget the thrill of being so close to such a magnificent animal. Both Mr. C. and Mark fed Junior, and we all got a kiss. You have to be very careful when you receive your “kiss”. If you have long hair, you are discouraged from receiving a kiss because Junior might inadvertently pull out some of your hair. But since the guys and Vicki and I all had short hair, we went for it. It was like being touched by a piece of wet, coarse grade sandpaper. BTW – I still haven’t washed my forehead! I have to mention here that Mark noticed that the chicken neck pieces Junior was so enjoying looked a lot like fingers. A bit unnerving to say the least. Mark mentioned this fact to the zoo keeper, but all he did was laugh. Yikes!

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Mr. C. receiving his "kiss"

Mr. C. receiving his “kiss”

My kiss

My kiss

And a jaguar kiss for Vicki

And a jaguar kiss for Vicki

One more big old sloppy kiss for Mark

One more big old sloppy kiss for Mark

 

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After our time with the jaguar, we continued to go thru the zoo exhibits. We saw the other 4 members of the cat family that live in Belize – Puma, Ocelot, Jaguarundi, and Margay. The other critters we viewed were the King Vultures, White Tailed Deer (not like ours), Central American Tapirs, Toucans, Blue-crowned Mot-mots, Ornate Hawk-Eagle, White-lipped Peccaries (Boars), Black Howler Monkeys, Tayra (Bush Dog), Morelet’s Croc (fresh water), American croc (salt), Coatimundi, Guon, Curassow, Harpy Eagles, Parrots, Frigate bird and one lone Scarlet Macaw. Some pictures of the other animals we encountered:

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Ocelot

Ocelot

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The smallest cat - Margay

The smallest cat – Margay

After leaving the zoo we went to lunch and then home to read and computer. We were so hot and so tired from our adventure that none of us felt like going out to dinner. So the guys went out for pizza and brought it back to our room. Really good pizza.  Really good guys! Then early to bed because we had an early date the next morning in Placencia for a cruise up the Monkey River.

Monday – November 14, 2016

Up early for our tour up the Monkey River. We left at about 6:45 am for our drive to Placentia to catch our tour boat. Now let it be known right here and now, there is nothing fancy about the tour boats in Belize. Our tour boat was really just a dory with a less than useful canopy. The canopy didn’t keep the rain out, the sun out, the bugs out, or anything in between! But we survived the boat trip, and I guess you can’t ask for more than that! (I mean what else could we have realistically expected to find in a very unpopulated jungle/rainforest area that routinely receives an annual rainfall of over 200 inches and is the quint essential environment for bugs of every type?) You’re going to get wet, and you’re going to get bit!

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Our captain, Jeremy, was great. He knew all about the flora and fauna along our route. But in order to reach the mouth of the river, we had to travel south along the coast for about 45 minutes.

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Much of the time we were in and out of small mangrove islands. At one point we had to kill the engine so that Jeremy could listen for a boat heading towards us through a very narrow passage. There was just enough room for one boat, and the last thing Jeremy needed was a head on collision with a boat full of tourists who might possibly keep an attorney on retainer. So we stopped, listened, and proceeded at full throttle. Of course! Why tarry?

After 45 minutes of fairly smooth sailing, we landed in Monkey River Town.

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This was really just a small fishing village where our captain lived with his wife and children and where he professed to be related to about 60% of the residents. A bit of a scary thought, but all inhabitants seemed to be perfectly normal. After making our lunch menu selection at, and I kid you not, Alice’s Restaurant, it was back on our boat and up the river.

Amazing flora

Amazing flora

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Juvenile Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

Juvenile Yellow-Crowned Night Heron

Anhinga

Anhinga

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Insect bats all in a row

Insect bats all in a row

Howler Monkey, howling

Howler Monkey, howling

Howler Monkey

Howler Monkey

Montezuma Oropendola

Montezuma Oropendola

Montezuma Oropendola Nest

Montezuma Oropendola Nest

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The cruise was a wonderful inland water trip to a practically untouched area teeming with wildlife. We saw many types of birds, small Sac-winged insect bats sleeping in a row on the bark of a tree, fresh water crocodiles (both large and babies), howler monkeys, and a turtle. At one point we got off the boat and walked a short distance through the jungle until our guide found a troop of howler monkeys and we could hear their growl. Of course to make them growl, our guide had to hit the trees with a stick and make howler like noises, but the monkeys didn’t seem to be too upset. Of course we were safe because the monkeys never set foot on terra firma, or so we were told. I personally didn’t care to stick around too long anyway because I was truly worried about a snake falling off a tree and onto my head. I told Andy if that happened, to just leave me in the jungle. Because I’d be scared to death way before the bite could do any harm, regardless of whether or not the snake was venomous.

Future travelers to Belize, please note: We didn’t see one snake or scorpion the whole time we were in Belize. We did see a couple of tarantulas, but they were just crossing the street in front of our car. I know, we are all aware of the age old question of why did the tarantula cross the road. But, no, it’s not just to get to the other side.  Fall is the time of year when male tarantulas seek female companionship.  It’s not that they particularly look for roads to cross, but on their quest for the love of their life, they must assume some risk. And believe me when I say that crossing a road or driving on a road in Belize is truly a risky business, be you human or be you tarantula. But back to our river adventure.

After our walk in the jungle, we returned to the boat with muddy feet but big smiles on our faces. My smile was mostly from not seeing a snake, but I have to admit, the jungle walk wasn’t nearly as creepy as I expected. However, I would have hated to try and beat my way through the bush. Navigating the path was hard enough. Trying to actually build a path would have been almost impossible. The flora is not only dense, but sturdy. And it grows on every surface, even other plants.

At the mouth of the river, which BTW is fresh water all the way out to the surf, we stopped and enjoyed our lunch at Alice’s Restaurant. Then back on the boat and up the coast to the landing in Placentia. I need to mention that on our way back we cut the motor for a few minutes in an area just off a small inhabited island to watch for manatees. As you may or may not know, manatees are referred to as sea cows because like cattle, they feed off of grasses. (In the Manatees case, the grass happens to be on the bottom of the sea.) Manatees rarely live in water deeper than 19 feet. When manatees are active (eating), they must surface every 3-4 minutes. If they are resting they can stay submerged for up to 20 minutes. We actually saw a couple manatees breaching, but only their nostrils were visible. Oh well, next time! Then back on our way, getting thoroughly drenched by a short but furious rain squall on the way.

FYI: There are more than 1100 types of bats around the world which together amount to approximately one quarter of all mammal species. They are found everywhere except in Polar Regions and the most extreme desert environments. The majority of bats inhabit tropical forests where they outnumber all other mammals combined.

Tuesday – November 15, 2016 

After a lovely breakfast at Tina’s Café, we headed out for our visit to the Mayan site of Xunantunich, pronounced “Shu-NAN-tun-ich”. At breakfast, Mariano who I previously mentioned hangs around and helps Chef Tina whenever he is not working at the resort, thankfully gave us directions to the site. Unlike every other country we have visited, there are very few highway or road signs directing us anywhere, even to this important site. Getting there included maneuvering the streets of two small villages, Santa Elena and San Ignacio. Then thankfully, still following a narrow, business fronted road, we accidentally stumbled on the unsigned, almost obscured, right-hand turn down a short steep ramp-like road which led us to the hand-winched cable ferry we were told would take us across the river to our designation.

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Ramp to the hand-cranked ferry

Ramp to the hand-cranked ferry

This two car plus passengers “modern” piece of technology (circa 1650 or earlier by the looks) allowed us to cross the Mopan River without having to wade. Of course only the driver could remain in the car.

Jeremy and the hand-crankers (sounds like the name of a band) on our way back from our visit

Jeremy and the hand-crankers (sounds like the name of a band) on our way back from our visit

The hand-crank ferry across the river to Xunantunich

The hand-crank ferry across the river to Xunantunich

So Mark, Vicki, and I walked on while Mr. C. carefully drove onto the ferry. Not a long ride here folks. We practically arrived at the other side before we knew we were moving at all. Then back in the car and up to the visitor centre. From there, further up the hill and to the ruins themselves.

This Mayan site was built on the top of an artificially flattened hill. Xunantunich incorporates 5 plazas, although the remaining structures are grouped around just 3 of them. The city’s tallest building, at 131 feet, is commonly known as El Castillo and is a prominent symbol of Belize’s national identity. As is often the case with Mayan ruins, the buildings were layered, with the most recent version on top. El Castillo is ringed by an extensively restored stucco frieze decorated with abstract carvings and depicting human faces, jaguar heads, and a king performing rituals associated with authority. (Don’t ask!)

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Xunantunich

Xunantunich

El Castillo

El Castillo

Xunantunich outer staircase

Xunantunich outer staircase

Inner staircase

Inner staircase

view from El Castillo

view from El Castillo

Almost to the top guys

Almost to the top guys

 

Made it!

Made it!

Crazy tourist viewed from the top of Del Castillo at Xunantunich

Crazy tourist viewed from the top of Del Castillo

And of course everywhere you look you find the ubiquitous Spinytail Iguana climbing about or simply resting on the walls.

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So of course, it was El Castillo that Mark and Mr. C. had to climb. I would have joined them except the riser part of the stairs looked to be about 14-16 inches tall. Much taller steps than I could have managed, that’s for sure! And to think that the Mayan men and women who built and lived in this city were much shorter then men and women are today. And they had to frequently climb these steps? Boggles the mind!

After our visit to the ruins we had lunch before setting off on our 3 hour return trip. (I believe I already mentioned our harrowing road adventure in my 11/4 post.) All in all, an amazing visit to the heart of the Mayan culture.

Wednesday – November 16, 2016

Up early, fast breakfast, drive to airport, drop off rental car, check in, wait, fly, land, buy lunch, wait, fly, land, gather luggage, pick up Mark and Vicki’s car, stop at McDonald’s (we were all starving), arrive home tired, happy, and glad to see our respective kitties.

Final analysis: beautiful country, wonderful sites, terrific experiences, unforgettable birds and animals, delightful and welcoming people, and the perfect place to adventure with dear friends

A huge thank-you to Mark and Vicki for contributing their amazing photos for this post. And to anyone who reads this and finds vocabulary and punctuation errors, they can all be attributed to me. Also, opinions expressed in this post are mine and mine alone. And at this point, I find no compelling reason to justify or change them, so I sincerely hope you don’t find anything I have written offensive.

Respectfully submitted,

Patti Carr – Chez Carr Cuisine

Black Fruit Cake (Owanie’s recipe)

3 lbs. candied fruit including candied papaya in different colors

1 lb. raisins

1 lb. toasted pecans

Rum to cover (Our instructor started with a 1750 ml bottle of rum. When she was done covering the fruit with rum, she used almost the rest of the bottle in the batter. There was only about 3½ inches left in the bottle when she proclaimed that the batter was perfect!) When our instructor makes fruitcake for her family, friends, and restaurant patrons, she marinates the fruit and raisins for a week before preparing the batter.

5 lbs. dark brown sugar (more like demerara sugar than our fine grained brown sugar)

2 c. butter

3½ c. Blue Bonnet margarine

Cream the butter, margarine, and brown sugar until your arm falls off!

Note: Normally it would be prudent to start with butter or margarine that you have allowed to come to room temperature by setting out on your kitchen counter for a few hours. But in Belize, not necessary. As soon as you take butter out of the refrigerator, it’s at room temperature within 10 minutes!

5 orange rinds and 1 lime rind, grated

½ c. whole cloves, toasted and finely ground

½ c. whole allspice, toasted and finely ground

2 large cinnamon sticks, toasted and finely ground (about 2 tablespoons ground)

2 whole nutmeg, ground

15 eggs, separated and whites and yolks each beaten before adding to batter

1 (28 ml) bottle Rose flavoring (Benjamin’s or Rayners)

5 c. (5 containers Bradley’s Caramel Coloring)

1 T. espresso powder

3 c. golden syrup

Add to butter mixture

5 lbs. all-purpose flour

7 T. baking powder

5 T. baking soda

Sift together and add to batter

2 c. sweet sherry

2 c. of rum

1 bottle Negra Modelo

Add to batter

Drain fruit and set aside.

Add leftover rum to batter.

Stir and let sit for several hours.

When ready to bake, butter and flour your pans.  Coat the drained fruit with enough flour to prevent it from sinking when spread on top of the cake.

Sprinkle the fruit over top of batter.

Place pan of water on lowest rack in your oven.

Bake cakes in a 350 degree oven 1 hour or until done. 

Remove from oven and let cool completely.

Store for several months adding additional rum once in a while. (Can’t hurt, right?)

To serve, pour a little rum over cake and serve with rum flavored whipped cream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SOUTH AFRICAN VACATION – FALL 2015

Ok, I promised my family and friends that I would tell them all about our South African vacation, plus show them some of our pictures. So while I’m at it, I thought my cooking blog readers might also enjoy reading about our marvelous adventure. So therefore I have chosen my blog as my delivery method. So here goes – South Africa in 200 words or less. (Well not really in 200 words, but I am going to try and keep my narration as short and to the point as possible.) Right!!

Sunday, 10-25-2015

First of all – getting to South Africa from Camano Island, Washington is a pain in the derrière. (Both literally and figuratively!) Unless you have a crazy friend who wants to pick you up at 3:30 in the morning and take you to the airport (2 hours away) the day of your flight, you have to get a friend to pick you up the day before and drive you 30 minutes to your local airline shuttle pick-up-point.

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(Andy at Stanwood shuttle stop, exit 212, I-5)

Then you have to ride the shuttle to the airport, then take another shuttle to your hotel, spend the night at the hotel so that the hotel shuttle can take you first thing in the morning back to the airport 3 hours before your flight is due to take off! All this before you have even seen the inside of an airplane!

Monday, 10-26-2015

So now it’s 5:15 am and we are on our way along with what seems like a zillion other people headed for the airport. Delta wants us at the airport 3 hours early so that we have plenty of time to check in, check our baggage, obtain our boarding passes, and clear Security in a timely fashion. But really Delta, is it absolutely necessary to be at the airport 3 hours early, when the whole process usually takes about 30 minutes? But being good little travelers who do as we are told, we are now at our gate 2½ hours before the airplane is scheduled to lift its considerable weight off the tarmac.

We are now in the air for the first of 3 connecting flights to our destination – Cape Town, South Africa. After a flight duration of 4 hours and 50 minutes, we land in Atlanta, Georgia. At 7:10 pm EST, we board our next aircraft that will find us in Johannesburg a mere 15 hours and 20 minutes later. After what seems like 15 hours and 20 minutes of no space to put our legs, no ability to get up and move around, (except of course when we wake up the man sitting in the aisle seat), of choking down what we laughingly refer to as fodder, but the airline calls food, and having our back sides feel like they are about to fall off, we arrive at 4:30 pm in Johannesburg. Somewhere in all this time in the air it becomes………

Tuesday, 10-27-2015 – Cape Town (Villa Bianca)

After only an hour and 45 minutes we again board an aircraft for our final flight (a mere 2 hours) to our final destination – Cape Town. It’s now 8:20 pm in Cape Town. (I could add up all the hours we spent either waiting for an airplane or riding in said aircraft, but I am absolutely positive I would never travel again if I actually did that. So let me just say – it was an excruciating long time!)

After landing and a pleasant and easy taxi ride to our B&B, we fell into bed, slept like the dead, and spent the whole next day touring Cape Town as if we had been in South Africa for weeks.

Moral of the story. For long International flights, plan your arrival time for late evening when it’s not only dark, but everyone else is going to bed too. It makes the jetlag problem much easier to tolerate.

Oh yah, another little thing I should mention. Once we stepped off the plane in South Africa and realized we truly were in another world, all the misery of getting there started to fade away. And as the days went by and we found South Africa to be one of the most amazing places on earth, our hated airline adventure seemed but a distant nuisance. South Africa is simply like no other country.

So if you too are thrilled by beautiful scenery, fantastic people, wild animals, and terrific accommodations, food, and drink; South Africa is the destination for you.

Wednesday, 10-28-2015 – Cape Town (Villa Bianca)

Woke up and walked to the back deck of our B&B for our first really good look at Table Mountain. The night before it was dark when our host took us to see the lights streaming down the side of the mountain. Apparently, in the spring and summer months when the moon is at its fullest, hikers go up the mountain in the daylight hours and come down in the evening with headlamps and the light of the moon to guide their way. So from down below, it’s just delightful to watch this procession of lights slowly moving down the mountain side.

After breakfast, we took the tram up to the top of Table Mountain. We walked around for about 90 minutes taking in the amazing views and feeling incredibly lucky that we had visited the mountain under no cloud cover.

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But we were anxious to explore Cape Town, so we caught the red tourist bus at the bottom of the tram and rode around Cape Town on the open upper deck.

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We stopped at the Victoria and Albert (V&A) wharf and walked around an amazing high end Arts & Crafts building, enjoyed our first calamari and chips plate together, and then hopped the red line tourist bus again. We got off close to our B&B (Villa Bianca), took a taxi from there, relaxed a bit and went to a local restaurant for dinner.

Some sights along our way around Cape Town.

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Thursday, 10-29-2015 – drive day to Swellendam (Arumvale Country House)

Before David our host at Villa Bianca drove us to pick up our rental car, we decided to have one more look from the B&B’s back deck at Cape Town’s beloved mountain. And again we were blessed.

There is an incredible phenomenon that occurs on Table Mountain. The top of the mountain becomes shrouded in clouds. (Sounds fairly common for the top of a mountain, right?) But what’s amazing is that the clouds appear to be falling off the top. And in all seriousness, it looks like water spilling over the mountain and dissipating into thin air before it hits the ground. (I wish I could have attached a video, but this format for presenting my dissertation/travel log does not allow videos.  Plus I am so terrible at such things, you could barely have seen what I’m talking about anyway.) But as you look at the still picture, imagine the clouds falling away into nothingness.

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At the Avis office, we were given a red Hyundai I-20 to drive, which turned out to be the most gutless car ever engineered. In addition to no oomph, the car was cursed with a schizophrenic transmission. If the car was cold, the engine would race. If you wanted it to go uphill, which incidentally was about a third of the time, the transmission appeared to abhor the effort. It would lug, then race its demented engine, then lug some more, etc. etc. the entire incline. Very unnerving. Plus the turn signals were on the right side of the steering column! Which meant that every time I wanted to turn right or left, I turned on the windshield wipers. (Ok, Ok. That was not the car’s fault. That’s just how it is when a car is built for driving on the left side of the road!) After leaving the car rental place, we headed east to our next destination – Swellendam and the Arumvale Country House.

Our drive took us inland along the N2, the main East West highway in the area.

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We arrived mid-afternoon safe and sound, which by-the-way is not easy when you are driving from the passenger seat!

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Unpacked and drove into “town” for breakfast supplies, then dined at an amazing restaurant that evening. (I had wildebeest!)

Friday, November 30, 2015 – tour day

Sometime after midnight, I woke up and realized we were not alone. We had left our windows open and we now had a nocturnal visitor in our suite – a large orange cat whom we had met upon arrival back at the guest house after dinner the night before. (We think he was just seeking shelter from the terrestrial downpour that was hammering the area.) But now, what to do with the cat? We tried opening the door and shooing him out. No luck! Ok fine! We would close the window in our bedroom, shut the bedroom door, and leave the kitchen window open so the cat could escape. Well that worked swell until the cat left by the kitchen window and once again pawed our unlocked bedroom window open and entered our bedroom, complete with shut door. We tried again to encourage the cat to leave, but neither of us was willing to have a vein opened in the attempt. So….we left him in the living room again, but this time we locked our bedroom window after shutting our bedroom door. We both fell asleep and when I was awakened by Thomas the brat cat, as he is not-so-lovingly referred to by the guest house owners, I quickly got up and shut and locked (the girl can learn) the kitchen window too. I came to Africa to see wild animals, but I never dreamed our first encounter would be with a semi-feral domestic cat! This whole adventure kept us from sleeping soundly, and when we finally did awaken, it was 11:30 am. I fixed breakfast and we left the guest house at about 1:30 pm for our planned day trip.

One of the drives that was recommended by our guide books was the western leg of the Little Karoo. This drive offers a glimpse of what much of South Africa’s vast hinterland looks like. It’s a narrow strip of land, wedged between the Swartberg and Outeniqua ranges, and is a sere world of fantastic rock formations and scrub land. It is also the home to lots and lots of ostrich farms. (And baboons, as it turned out!) There are several dramatic passes that traverse the mountains to the coast and later on in the trip we tried to drive over one of them, but our car, the feckless machine that it was, simply would not allow us to proceed to the top. (More about Swartberg Pass to come.)

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Back in Swellendam, we enjoyed another marvelous dinner (I had kudu), then drove back to our self-catered country guest house to read, write in our journal, and lock all the windows before we turned out the lights!

Saturday, October 31, 2015 – drive day to Pt. Elizabeth (Admiralty Beach House)

Checked out and said goodbye to our hostess about 10:00 am. Our poor hostess was absolutely aghast that we were going to drive as far as Pt. Elizabeth in just one day! Apparently, people in South Africa do not drive long distances like we do. It was a long drive (520km or 336 miles), but the road was good, and we were used to covering vast distances in just a few hours. Along the way we stopped for a long lunch at a Mozambique café in Plettenberg (Plett to the locals) Bay. Saw our first vervet monkeys along the road and arrived at the 5 star Admiralty Beach House at 5:45 pm to be told that we had been upgraded from a basic room to a suite. (No extra charge.) Everything from Port and chocolates, to a large soaking tub and huge shower. Cuddly robes, fresh flowers – the full meal deal! Also, right across from the beach access. Truly first cabin! We went out for a lovely dinner, then an early lights out.

Sunday, November 1 – Addo Elephant National Park

Got up at 7:30, had breakfast and headed up to Addo Elephant National Park. Along our drive out of Pt. Elizabeth, we rounded a curve (on-ramp to another freeway), and found ourselves bumper-to-bumper with parked cars. The cars had stopped to collect the hundreds of plastic (thank God) 2 liter bottles of Diet Coke that had fallen off a soft-sided tractor trailer. Apparently the truck had taken the curve too fast, because he definitely had lost part of his load. There were Coke bottles strewn all over the road and on both shoulders. (This BTW, was the third truck we had seen in 3 days that had lost its load.)

Now one thing you have to say for the South Africans. They can absolutely make lemonade out of lemons! There was not one car, bus, truck, etc. that didn’t have people pouring out of its doors to collect bottles of Coke to stash safely in their trunks, back seats, peoples laps, wherever! People were even offering us bottles of Coke as we slowly wound our way through the parked cars and detritus.

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By the next day when we again drove that same route, not much remained of the horrific mess. The clean-up effort could not have been better choreographed had it been planned weeks in advance. And no class distinction here folks. Rich, poor, black, white. Everyone was laying claim to the spillage!

But back to Addo. Arrived a little past 11:00 am and immediately booked a 2 hour guided tour.

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Our guide was most knowledgeable and during our guided trip and afterwards, just driving around the park on our own, we saw: elephants, lions, red hartebeests, common duikers, Burchells zebras, a black-backed jackal plus 2 babies (which apparently is very rare), ostriches, blue cranes, warthogs (my personal favorite), bush-bucks, both a yellow and a large grey mongoose, meerkats, bok-maklerie (small green bird), Egyptian geese, buffalo, elands, kudu, vervet monkeys, flightless dung beetles, black headed herons, leopard tortoise, guinea fowl, and millipedes (about 4-5 inches long).  (Not bad for a simple drive through a National park!)

A few pictures of the animals we saw in the park – elephants, zebras, lions, kudu (a species of antelope) and ostrich

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Returned to Pt. Elizabeth through pouring rain, wind, and occasional fog. Had a wonderful seafood dinner and another early lights out.

Monday, November 2, 2015 – Schotia Safaris Private Reserve

A slow start to our day and a leisurely breakfast. Drove up to the office of Schotia Safaris and arranged for an afternoon and evening tour which included dinner. But the safari started 3 hours later, so we decided to drive around the area. Had coffee, then lunch, (I had Bobotie – recipe on blog) and saw more of the beautiful surrounding area.

When I first envisioned visiting South Africa, all I could see in my minds’ eye, was a picture of a large savanna, complete with a low rounded hill containing a single large tree, and a pride of lions happily resting in the sparse shade created by the tree. Well, that may be the way things are in other parts of Africa, but not in the Eastern Cape region. Here the vegetation is varied and plentiful. Large trees, short and tall bushes, and a variety of native grasses and flowers. So traveling around the area is a treat for the eyes. Of course, it didn’t hurt that our visit was in late Spring. The trees were flowering and all the bushes were green and lush, at least in this part of the country. South Africa in general, and especially a little further NE of Pt. Elizabeth, is suffering from a terrible drought. Watering holes that the wild animals depend on are either totally devoid of water or the amount of water is greatly reduced. And of course the farmers and ranchers are having a terrible time keeping both their crops and herds alive without their usual supply of water. Very much like what is happening in California and Syria.

While we were waiting for our tour to begin, we almost decided not to go because it was quite rainy and cold. But when in South Africa for perhaps the only time, you go on safari when the opportunity presents itself. So at 3:00 pm we boarded our Land Rover with two other couples, plus all the clothing we had brought with us that day, along with 2 blankets and ponchos provided by the safari company. (I should mention here that safari vehicles usually have roofs, but no side protection from either the beating sun or as in our case this trip, horizontal rain showers.) So understandably, we were not what you would call – warm. Regardless, the whole adventure was still worth every penny.

Some of the animals we saw that day:

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We had fabulous close up encounters with elephants, one of which explored pushing the Land Rover over with its tusks, but decided instead that the left front of the vehicle would make a great scratching post.

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Nothing like being gently rocked by an elephant as large as the truck you’re sitting in! Even our driver couldn’t believe what the elephant was doing. Those are our drivers arms and camera you see in the right hand part of the picture. After about 2 hours, we stopped for a hot tea break, then back on the trail. Still cold, still wet, still having the time of our life!

At about 7:15 pm we stopped for dinner in a huge open air lapa. A lapa is a thatched roof supported by wooden walls. This lapa was very large, and had reed and Sneeze-wood walls and was open to the skies, except for the outer edge where the dining tables were arranged. (The outer ring was covered by a thatch roof.) Several huge Schotia trees and a log fire were inside the circle.

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Dinner was typical South African food served by our drivers. We had rice, boiled potatoes, mixed veggies in a cheese sauce, rings of butternut squash, beef stew, roast chicken with a mushroom gravy, and rolls. For dessert, our first taste of Malva (recipe on site).

Then once more into the cold and wet Land Rover for our trip back, (complete with night-time elephant viewings), to where we had parked our car.

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A totally grand adventure that I am so glad we took. Then straight back to our B&B to plan our route for the next day, a nice warming sip or two of Port, and a wonderfully warm and cozy bed. (While we were out, the staff had turned on the electric blanket for us.) Like I said – first cabin accommodation.

I guess at this point I should take a moment to mention that getting to South Africa is not cheap (lots of air miles after all). But once you get there, at least in October and November of 2015, the price of everything was incredibly low. For example, in US dollars, our 3 nights spent at this beautiful 5 star B&B in Pt. Elizabeth cost us $291.73. That’s less than $100 a night! And dining too was amazingly inexpensive. Even dinners like the one we enjoyed at Dale’s Black Angus in a suburb of Cape Town cost us less than going out for burgers and beer at Red Robin! Andy had Chateaubriand, served with Béarnaise sauce flambéed with brandy, a shredded potato cake, sautéed veggies, a glass of wine, and an incredible Dom Pedro for dessert. They call it a Don Dales. A chocolate Dom Pedro with a double shot of Frangelico and Chantilly cream. (Recipe for a Dom Pedro’s at the end of the travel log.) I ordered what they call their “Special Reserve 21 Tenderloin”, which came with a baked potato and sautéed veggies. Total for both of us including tip – $38.17.

Same goes for the price of our rental car. For the 24 days we had the car the total was only $656. And we had ordered an automatic (always more expensive) and had paid for as much insurance as Avis offered. That’s only a little over $27 a day. Even gas was not expensive. And the price of art and the other treasures that we purchased as souvenirs were a bargain. So all in all, a very inexpensive place to visit.

Tuesday, November 3, 2015 – drive day to East London (Cove View B&B)

After another delicious breakfast we were once again on the road for the day. Destination – East London. We decided to take the lovely “sunshine coast road”, stopping only for lunch and gas. Arrived late afternoon only to be met by a guard at the gate of this very well protected community. After telling him where we were headed, and him making the appropriate phone call, we were allowed to proceed to our B&B. We were greeted by the manager and shown to our absolutely charming room with a stunning view of the Indian Ocean.

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Since we were in the country and not sure where we could find dinner, we asked our hostess for suggestions. She gave us a few, but then told us if we would like, she could order dinner for us and would gladly collect it from the gate and bring it back to the B&B. Amazing hospitality. So we took her up on her offer and enjoyed a casual and tasty dinner “at home”.

A note about security in South Africa. Almost every home or building is protected by fencing or solid walls topped with barbed wire or some other unwanted visitor preventative. Theft is truly a problem everywhere in this magnificent country. During lunch on the road to East London, the owner of the restaurant where we dined had warned us about safety especially once we got away from large cities. But we had not experienced what that truly meant until we got to this destination. The community of Cove Rock where our B&B was located was basically, for lack of a better word, an enclave. Our hostess said she never walked on the beach by herself. She always walked with a partner, and even then, never at night. From a stranger’s point of view, it looked like the houses were all imprisoned. (While driving inside the security fence to our B&B, I half expected to see guard towers along the route.) I must say, as dissatisfied with the US and its ridiculous general belief that America is the most impressive and civilized country on earth, I at least still feel safe in my own home. In South Africa, it’s constant vigilance.  And not just from the human population. South Africa has other home invaders that can cause damage, steal your possessions, and generally keep you at full alert. Monkeys, naughty little fellows that they are. Cute as the dickens, but faster than a speeding bullet at snatching everything from cameras and purses, to fruit happily residing in a bowl on top of a buffet. So the term “be prepared” is very appropriate to living or visiting South Africa!

Wednesday, November 4, 2015 – drive day to Port St. Johns (The Lodge on the Beach)

Now we are seeing the real South Africa. Small towns (villages really) packed with people, market stalls, cars, trucks, buses, domestic animals –  all coming at our car from every direction. Women with huge bundles on their heads, children in their school uniforms, delivery drivers parked in the middle of the street and pushing their product laden carts toward the vendors and shops along the street edges. All the visual stimulation you could ask for along with the cacophony that is indigenous to anywhere masses of humanity congregate. Unbelievable!

And along the highways and backroads, people walking or standing along the road waiting for a ride. Not uncommon to feel like you are miles from civilization, when suddenly one or two people are standing beside the road waiting either to hitchhike to town, or be picked up by one of the many privately owned buses (they look like a 12 passenger van) that are everywhere. And to our inexperienced eyes, there appear to be no structures (be it homes or barns) for miles around. And animals. We decided that all the fences we were seeing around people’s homes were not there to keep animals in. They were in place to keep animals out! You couldn’t drive a klick without sheep, cows, goats, horses, donkeys, or pigs grazing freely along the side of the road. And how at the end of the day anyone could tell their goat from the next guy’s goat, is way beyond my comprehension.

Rest stops? Are you kidding? Nary a one did we encounter. Plenty of pull outs with picnic tables, but not a one with bathroom accommodations. But oh the scenery. Tall hills and deep valleys with little clusters of homes (some of them shanties) everywhere you look. And students in full uniform – everywhere. And no matter how rickety some of the shanties appeared, there were usually clean clothes hanging on the line, small children and people milling around, and no one looking the least bit hungry. People would smile and wave, and yes, sometimes stare. But no rude or threatening gestures even if we were driving in areas that probably hadn’t seen a lot of tourist traffic.

We finally arrived at our destination late afternoon, settled in, and went for a walk on the beach along with a trip to the village bottle store we had passed on our way in.

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I wanted some gin. And Andy thought a nice bottle of Scotch would not be unwelcome. No Tanqueray for me, but they did have Gordon’s which seemed to be South Africa’s gin of choice. It is definitely not my gin of choice, so I decided to go native and bought a small 200ml bottle of Old Buck Dry Gin, produced and bottled in South Africa. I should have bought a larger bottle, because it was really nice gin. I looked for it later on in the trip, but never did find it again. Andy bought a 375ml bottle of Johnny Walker Black Label, and both bottles set us back about $17.

Now the Lodge on the Beach in Port St. Johns was the most rustic accommodation we stayed in the whole time we were in SA.

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A view back to The Lodge on the Beach safely tucked away in the trees.

20151104_151348The view from our deck

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Our deck

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Morning coffee on the main deck before breakfast

Our room was very simple, kind of run down actually, and the bathroom (just for us) was across the hall. But we had a small deck off our room (seen above) and a million dollar view of the small bay pounded by rolling surf! That evening we had dinner at a restaurant, and I use the term loosely, that was just up the hill from our B&B. This was your average 1960s hippy restaurant, complete with benches, big pillows, and a menu signboard. But the view was wonderful, the food decent, and the nice bonfire right in front of our tent-like dining room was not only warming but welcoming. By the next morning, I had decided that this was now my definition of paradise and I was sorry that we couldn’t stay longer. So farewell to Port St. Johns and on to Ballito and my favorite guesthouse of our entire vacation.

Thursday, November 5, 2015 – Ballito (Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse)

We left Port St. Johns about 10:00 am. Spent the day driving through more tiny villages and small towns and beautiful rolling hills speckled with homes – some ramshackle, some not so much. And along the road, lots of big trucks and tiny buses, and the ever present grazing domestic animals and people walking to God knows where. But it seemed like everyone made it eventually to the small conclaves of commerce to purchase their groceries and other supplies. Because if the women didn’t have large bundles on their heads, they were on their way to obtain large bundles to carry home with them. But no one seemed in a hurry. These walks appeared to be not only for business, but also for pleasure. It was not at all uncommon to see 2 or 3 women walking together, brightly dressed in flowing garments complete with ruffled aprons. (I liked these ladies immediately!) Some of the women even carried parasols against the afternoon sun. They looked as if walking along a freeway (or toll-way) in rural South Africa was as pleasant as leisurely strolling along the ChampsÉlysées in Paris. (Only I think these rather poor (by our standards) South African ladies smiled and laughed a lot more than their wealthy Parisian counterparts!)

(And no I don’t have any pictures of South African people. To my thinking, it is extremely rude to take pictures of folks without first obtaining their permission. So you will just have to form mental images.)

And again, lots of children walking home from school. All looking clean, happy, some munching on snacks, some listening to some kind of device that required ear buds, and all looking happy and healthy. And most notable of all, no one was in a hurry. And no one looked stressed! Truly amazing.

Late afternoon we came to Durban, the third largest city in South Africa. I drove while Andy navigated us through rush hour traffic. We made it through without either harming ourselves, any South Africans, or our car. But I was darned glad to reach our destination.

When we arrived at our guesthouse, we were greeted at the bottom of the driveway by our hostess Erika. This whole area of the town of Ballito is a steep hillside. So all of the homes and guesthouses are situated off narrow roads (lanes really) with sheer drop offs to the homes on the downhill side and incredibly steep driveways to the homes on the uphill side. Our guest house was on the uphill side.

Now those of you who have been to our home know that we have a steep driveway. But in comparison to the driveway at our guesthouse, ours looks like a shallow sand pile. This driveway was steep, short, and banked to the right. You had to stay to the far left or your car would get high-centered. And then when you got to the parking area, there were less spaces for parking than there were cars. So some lucky guest was always having to back and fill his car as not to cause damage to other cars or the building itself.

Since I was still behind the wheel when we arrived, I drove up the driveway successfully. But when we decided later to go out to dinner, Andy decided to back down the driveway.

Well our car was apparently not designed to go backwards. The engine was simply not equipped for that much downward pull. The engine made a horrible noise, and had Andy not been such a good driver, we would have gone over the road and into the garage of the home across the street from our guesthouse! Needless to say, we didn’t try that again! (The going down the driveway backwards, that is!)

But for all the travails with the driveway, the Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse was absolutely beautiful. Our room was divine, the view amazing, the guesthouse breakfasts unparalleled, and the owners, Herbie and Erika, as amicable as any two people I have ever met. And Herbie – what a cook! Gourmet breakfasts every morning, complete with jokes and smiles. Example of the kind of jokes we heard over breakfast: A midget psychic escapes – signs posted – small medium at large! (Drum roll please.) And – a concrete truck collides with a police van (you ready?) hardened criminals were released! (Sorry.)

We stayed at the guesthouse in Ballito for 4 nights and I was not ready to leave when our visit was over. Truly, if ever I decided to live in South Africa, it would be in Ballito.

Friday, November 6, 2015 – Ballito (Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse)

After breakfast we headed back towards Durban and then NW into The Valley of a Thousand Hills. Simply a wonderful area offering stunning views of hills and valleys dotted with traditional Zulu homesteads. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant we considered “the best of both worlds”. The restaurant was catered by the Thousand Hills Chef School. And next door to the chef school – the Porcupine Quills Brewery. So not only was the food exceptional, the beer was wonderful too. And all was served at a picnic table perched at the top of a hill overlooking the wooded hillside and the valley below. After lunch and a few stops at craft shops, we headed back to Ballito and a good nights’ sleep.

Saturday, November 7, 2015 – Ballito (Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse)

After another wonderful breakfast including Portuguese Chicken Livers, we headed out for another drive north of Durban called The Midlands Meander. Again through rolling hills, sugar cane fields, and fine craft shops. Our first stop of the day was the Nelson Mandela Capture Site Museum. The museum is a tribute to this amazing individual and the exhibitions display the political and personal journey of this beloved hero. In addition to information and pictures of Mandela, there was a 50 steel column construction, 31 feet tall that as you walk down a path comes into alignment to form a portrait of Nelson Mandela against a backdrop of rolling hills and valleys.

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As I walked through the museum, and down the path to the statue I was in tears. Such an amazing man, with such lofty goals of equality for his fellow Africans. Makes one feel humble just to walk on the same path he once walked. And to realize how far some of our brothers and sisters have had to walk, and how much they have had to endure, just to receive recognition as human beings. If for no other reason than to visit this museum, I will forever be glad I visited South Africa.

After visiting the museum and sculpture, and fixing my eye makeup, we went to lunch at a famous restaurant in the vicinity – the Cavesham Mill Restaurant. This was the first restaurant we had visited that was owned and operated by black Africans. I loved it! After having just visited the Mandela exhibit, it was like coming up for fresh air after having spent days in a mine shaft. Plus the food was marvelous!

After lunch, we visited one of the most admired ceramic shops in South Africa. It is located on the Ardmore Farm in the foothills of the Drakensburg Mountains of KwaZulu-Natal. If you want to explore their website to see some of the most magnificent ceramics imaginable, visit them at www.ardmoreceramics. Wondering through their shop, or even looking at their work is like visiting a ceramic museum. Absolutely amazing pieces of art.

Even though it was early afternoon, we decided we would head back to our room and just read and hang out for the rest of the day. Too many emotions and too much beauty can tire a person out very quickly. It can also lead a person to want an early martini or a wee dram of Scotch, along with an early dinner and early lights out in a lovely air-conditioned room.

Sunday, November 8, 2015 – Ballito (Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse)

Up early and to yet another wonderful Herbie breakfast. All the while we were at the Zimbali View Eco Guesthouse, I kept thinking that our friend Jim would absolutely feel like he had met his brother by another mother if he had been there with us. Of all the people I know, Jim would have captured the heart of Herbie, and Herbie would never have let go of Jim. If ever there were two peas in a pod, it’s these two guys!

So after a good night’s sleep and a tummy full of wonderful food, we decided to be brave and drive through downtown Durban again. This time with a goal in mind besides just making it through alive. Our destination – uShaka Marine World, the largest aquarium in the Southern hemisphere. It has a capacity of nearly 6 million gallons of water. You enter through the side of a giant ship, and walk down several stories to enter a “labyrinth of shipwrecks” – a jumble of 5 different fake but highly realistic wrecks, from an early 20th century passenger cruiser to a steamship.

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Within the labyrinth are massive tanks, housing more than 350 species of fish and sea life, including the biggest variety of sharks in the world, including ragged-tooth and Zambezi (bullsharks). And for whatever reason, the aquarium was not busy even though it was a Sunday afternoon. So viewing the exhibits and lingering as long as we wanted at each tank was no problem. After visiting the aquarium, we were hungry. And of course the only choice for me was fish and chips. (And no, I feel no shame over my choice of fish for lunch!)

On our way back to our car, we walked through a huge covered area full of shops. And outside one of the shops, just standing there waiting for me, was my favorite keepsake from our visit to South Africa. His name is Zimbali, and he is an 8-inch tall, 9½-inch long, by 5-inch wide metal warthog.

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He is absolutely wonderful. And why a warthog you might ask? Well I simply fell in love with the first warthog I saw at Addo Elephant Park. He (I think it was a he) was at a watering hole, and absolutely dancing around the other animals. His little feet were barely even touching the ground, and I was immediately reminded of one of my favorite Flanders and Swann songs – The Warthog. Now if you are unfamiliar with this British comedy duo, the actor and singer Michael Flanders and the composer, pianist and linguist Donald Swann, who collaborated in writing and performing comic songs, you are in for a treat. They are worth researching on the internet. If you would like to hear their delightful song about a warthog, and the reason for my love for this endearing creature, visit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWenRlN-sjI. (Sorry for the digression, but some things are simply too wonderful not to share with others.)

After my major purchase we headed back to our room and spent the late afternoon reading, sipping, and planning our route for the next day.

Monday, November 9, 2015 – Richards Bay (Aristo Manor)

As with most good things, there has to come an end. Leaving Ballito and our wonderful hosts at the guesthouse was like leaving home. We hugged each other like we had been close friends since childhood. And to think no more Herbie breakfasts, accompanied by the sight of dolphins playing in the water just off shore, was hard to imagine. But there were more wonderful discoveries to be made and it was time to be on our way. So we drove down the driveway from hell for the last time, waving frantically at Herbie and Erika, and me close to tears.

Before we left, Herbie had warned us that our next destination, Richards Bay, was basically an industrial city. That we would find it both dirty and stinky, so we were a bit worried. But by the time we got to “the manor”, we could find nothing to complain about.

One of the things I had wanted in the B&Bs and guesthouses that I booked for us was variety. And the Aristo Manor turned out to be a bit too fussy for our tastes. But it was nothing if not large, comfortable, beautiful, and had we happened to have been English royalty, I’m sure we would have felt right at home! So we did what any other travel savvy couple would do under the same circumstances. We had a drink, (pinky finger crooked ever so slightly in deference to our surroundings), went out for a fine dinner, planned our next day’s adventure, and went to bed early.

Tuesday, November 10, 2015 – Richards Bay (Aristo Manor)

We requested an early breakfast (6:30 am) so that we could get an early start to our day. We planned to visit Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve. And if you are interested in how you pronounce Hluhluwe, I will give you the same advice I was given by a nice older couple from Johannesburg. “Pretend you have had too much to drink, and then slur your words. If it sounds like schlu-shlouwee, you’ve got it right!” So bright and early (7:10 am) we hit the road.

Over the years we have driven on some very hairy roads and in some pretty awful conditions, but this day’s drive was white knuckles the entire time. Cars passing us on the right side, vehicles moving anywhere from 10 to 120 klicks an hour, buses stopping in front of us with no prior warning, animals grazing everywhere, and people walking in front of our car as if they were about to exercise their death wish. By the time we got to the gates of the park we were both mentally and physically exhausted. But we had pre-booked a 3 hour safari, so we proceeded into the park.

Now not unlike other parks and nature reserves we had visited, most of the roads inside are unpaved. But we had just entered “pothole hell”. And if there weren’t potholes, the road surface was washboard. And if you have ever driven a washboard surface for any distance, you know how frazzled you can become even after a couple of miles. So by the time we arrived to check in for our safari, we were both ready to take the first  park official we encountered, and feed him or her to the first lion we found! Of course it didn’t help that it was a nice mild 97 degrees outside, accompanied by high humidity. And then of course, the animals don’t like hunting or moving in super-hot weather either. So they were mostly sticking to the shady areas under trees and bushes and as far away from the nasty, smelly Land Rovers as possible.

We were however lucky enough to see some animals in spite of the weather – giraffe, zebra, warthog, nyala, buffalo, and both a white and a black rhino. (The black rhino appeared to be in just about the same frame of mind as we were, because at one point all of us, including the driver, thought the rhino was going to charge our Land Rover.) It turned out to be a fake charge, but I wouldn’t have blamed him in the least if he had followed up on his threat. We also saw a 10-12 year old male elephant who appeared quite agitated.

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Part of the reason there were fewer wild animals showing themselves in this park then others we visited, and then some appearing anxious, is because the Elephant Coast, where this park is located, is currently experiencing a terrible drought. Normal watering holes are gone, and the animals sometimes have to travel long distances just to drink from man- made water receptacles. Not the best of conditions for a wild animal. (Nor a frazzled American, if truth be told!)

After our tour we had lunch and Andy finally had an opportunity to taste “Bunny Chow”. Bunny Chow is a spicy East Indian curry dish that originated in Durban during the apartheid years. It is basically just a delicious curry served in a hollowed out small loaf of bread. Over the years Bunny Chow has become a favorite South African fast food. (BTW – no rabbits are harmed in the preparation of this dish.)

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After driving south out of the park, and finally leaving the potholes behind, we headed back to our country manor. I took a power nap while Andy also lay down, but just to read. (Or so I’m told!) Then down to the towns lovely marina for an early dinner. Andy, the more adventurous epicure in our family ordered Eisbein, a local favorite. Eisbein is a deep fried pickled ham hock. Really! As Andy put it – “a once in a life-time experience!”

Wednesday, November 11, 2015 – Richards Bay (Aristo Manor)

We requested breakfast at 8:00 am this morning since our day’s adventure was not terribly far away. So after yet another lovely South African morning repast, we headed north to the small town of St. Lucia. We experienced our first massive road construction project, complete with zig-zaggy detour routes along the way. One detour took us through the town of Mtubatuba. So Andy, with his ever active mind and stunning wit named our detour the “Mtubatuba Manuvah”.  Cute, right? Hey, don’t shoot me. I’m just the scribe!

We finally reached St. Lucia and promptly booked a seat on a river cruise boat. We were eager to see hippos and crocodiles in their natural habitat. And boy did we see hippos and crocodiles, along with a wide variety of beautiful birds wading along the shore or perched in the dense tree foliage.

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That “log” you see is really a crocodile

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I should mention that before our tour began we took a drive around the small town of St. Lucia.

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A fruit market in St. Lucia

On almost every street there was a sign warning people to look out for hippos after dark. We thought it was a joke. So while we were on our cruise we asked the captain of our vessel about the signs. He said he lived in St. Lucia and that every evening the hippos wandered from the river into town. Apparently they prefer drinking the water out of people’s private swimming pools to the water in the river. Then in the morning they make their leisurely way back to the river to spend the day in mud, glorious mud. (Not a bad way to spend ones’ life, wouldn’t you say?) The boat captain also told us, and we later substantiated his statement, that hippos are responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than any other large animal. So please take note. When in Africa, no selfies with hippos!

It was 4:00 pm when we left our cruise boat behind, and not wanting to be confronted by a hippo after dark, we decided to head back to Richards Bay and the Aristo Manor. After all, we had only one more evening to practice putting on English royalty airs! So as any other self-respecting member of the royalty would do in late afternoon, we had a stiff one before proceeding to yet another wonderful dinner down on the waterfront.

Just as we were finishing dinner, the wind came up, it started to rain heavily, and there was lightning all around the marina. Frankly, I was a bit scared. But Andy remained calm and drove us safely back to our room.

Let me tell you, life for an American on vacation in South Africa is pretty darn wonderful. Speaking of Americans, I should take this opportunity to tell you that after visiting all kinds of tourist attractions, staying in first class accommodations, and eating in lovely restaurants, we met no other Americans the entire time we were in South Africa. We met tons of Europeans, especially Germans and Swiss, but nary an American. First time ever on our travels that we haven’t been surrounded by tourists from our own country. For that matter, there weren’t that many tour buses lurking behind every pillar or post either. Very refreshing and delightful.

Thursday, November 12, 2015 – Kokstad (The Old Orchard Guest House)

Left Aristo Manor after breakfast and headed back along N2 towards Kokstad and the beginning of our return trip to Cape Town. The drive was quite nice without too much traffic, but it was foggy and raining lightly the entire way. Luckily we had seen the area in sunshine on our way up to Richards Bay. But what a difference in temperature between the two trips. When we had been driving towards Richards Bay it had been anywhere from 32C (90F) to 36C (97F). On November 12, the temperature was 11C or 51F. Brrrr!!!

We arrived at The Old Orchard Guest House mid-afternoon. What a delightful setting. Had the area not been experiencing a severe drought, our room would have been right over the water. As it was, the water was still only a few feet from our deck.

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Even though the water had receded, the birds were still in evidence. So we had a nice late afternoon drink and read on our private deck.

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As it turned out, the guest house also had a restaurant only 20 feet or so away from our room. Very nice just to be able to lock your room, go through your own personal gate, and within 5 seconds be at the front door of a lovely, circular hut-like building complete with a wood burning fireplace situated in the middle of the room. Needless to say, we chose a table right next to the fire.

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We hated to leave after only one night, but after breakfast we were back on the road and headed to East London.

Friday, November 13, 2015 – East London (A River Rest Bed & Breakfast)

Long driving day which included a nice morning side trip through fertile hills. We arrived at 5:00 to an absolutely beautiful and very modern B&B complete with a parking place in the garage. Wow!

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After getting settled, we took the maid’s advice and had a magnificent dinner at a restaurant named The Country Bumpkin. Now we all know that names can be deceiving. And if there ever was a restaurant ill named, this one could top the list. There was absolutely nothing “bumpkinish” about this gourmet restaurant. It would be like Canlis here in Seattle deciding to start calling itself the “Aurora Avenue Roadhouse”. Not in a million years! Back to our room and early lights out.

Saturday, November 14, 2015 – East London (A River Rest Bed & Breakfast)

After a lovely breakfast at 8 am, we headed out for a day drive along the Wild Coast Jikeliza Route. This road, potholes included free of charge, passes through some of the most vibrant coastal villages and some of the most remote beaches in the country. The area is known to be one of the most carefree areas on the planet, and to an outsider, most of the locals appear to be not in the least concerned with subsistence living. They just look like happy, easy going people.

Then back to our room and out for the only truly bad meal we experienced the entire 4 weeks of our trip. I decided that I was in the mood for Chinese food. Very bad mistake. The place was absolutely packed. And everyone and their dog was in line to pick-up meals to take home. So I figured this must be a great place to eat. Wrong. The worst Chinese food I ever ate. Andy too. If I had had just one more finger of gin in my over-the-yard-arm drink before going out to dinner, I swear I would have marched into that kitchen, whipped the wok out of the cooks’ hands, and prepared a decent low mein. Then after sharing some of my creation with our fellow diners, I would have shoved the rest down the cook’s gullet! The food was truly that bad. (OK, I got that out of my system. I can now return to my normal calm and reasonable narration.) In the restaurant’s defense however, everyone seemed to be having a wonderful time. Joviality ran rampant. It was simply a pleasure to watch and hear large tables of people so thoroughly enjoying themselves. The experience taken in whole was just another reason we so love to travel our home planet.

Change of subject. We loved the crossing signs, warning signs, and humorous signs posted all around South Africa. Crossing signs along the roads for animals – elephants, hippos, antelope, tortoise, and penguins. Warning signs posted in parking lots, along roads, virtually anywhere and everywhere – don’t feed the monkeys and baboons are dangerous. (Don’t see many signs like that in America!)

But what we enjoyed most were the humorous signs like the ones below. South Africans, as a whole, have a great sense of humor. Everyone seems to find humor in even the most tedious and mundane of circumstances. It is truly delightful to witness. Just another thing we so loved about the country.

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Sunday, November 15, 2015 – Jeffrey’s Bay (Dolphin Sunrise)

Drive day complete with “driving” rain most of the way. Arrived about 3:00 pm to our delightful cottage/hut and sunny skies. Splendid views from our cottage and right on the shore of St. Francis Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in the world.

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Apparently surfers come from around the world to “take the waves”. It must be true because there was never a time, during daylight hours of course, that we would look at the water and not see surfers riding the waves. Since we had driven through rain all day long, and were a bit fatigued, we decided to just stick around our cottage for the rest of the afternoon. We read, surfed the internet (some people surf on water, some on their computers), and generally just hung out until it was time to make the arduous drive to dinner, about 5 minutes away.

The picture below is of one of two extended port holes designed as children’s sleeping quarters in our cottage. And I tell you, any kid would love sleeping in one of these tiny capsule rooms. I almost slept in one myself. But better judgment prevailed. But I considered it, I really did!

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Monday, November 16, 2015 – Jeffrey’s Bay (Dolphin Sunrise)

Although we had originally planned to spend the day travelling around the area, we decided instead to go back to Addo Elephant National Park since we had so enjoyed our first excursion. And I am so glad we made that choice. Because we saw more of our beloved animals, especially elephants, than we had on our first visit. It was glorious.

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One of the high points of our second day in the park was seeing a lion really up close and personal. We were just slowly driving along, minding our own business, when we came upon a couple of cars pulled off to the side of the road. We stopped also and just waited until the traffic cleared. As we rounded a shallow bend we saw what had caused the other cars to stop. Here was a male lion, right next to the road, for all the world looking like a spectator at a parade. He wasn’t at all concerned that we were watching him. He was in position to watch us! That was absolutely evident. But not in a menacing way. Just hanging out in the shade of some bushes, taking in the action on what could have been for him, just another boring day in the jungle. Delightful!

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Tuesday, November 17, 2015 – Calitzdorp (Soeterus Guest Farm)

Drive day to Calitzdorp. Arrived just after 2:00 pm and was immediately greeted by the owners and shown to our room. They also mentioned that if we were interested, they were preparing dinner for their guests that evening and would we be so inclined to join the others? Would we be interested in having marinated grilled ostrich, sides, wine, and dessert prepared by our hostess Hannelie, who by-the-way, was a chef? You bet your Amarula and Brandy Malva Pudding we’d be interested! So we said yes thank you and proceeded with our original plan to drive to the top of Swartberg Pass before dinner.

Now for those of you who haven’t driven over this pass, allow me to tell you a bit about it. First of all it’s considered to be one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the world. It offers some of the most amazing views imaginable. The pass also prides itself on being one of the steepest passes in South Africa. And like any pass worth its reputation, it’s absolutely replete with twisty hair pin corners and very narrow lanes. (Lanes heck – there’s only one lane, and it’s narrow!) But the views of other mountains and deep valleys are stunning, along with close up vistas of striking warped and twisted rock formations and interesting plant life. But unfortunately, the road proved too much for our poor little Hyundai (we feared for its transmission), so at about 2/3rds of the way to the top we turned around.

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We were so disappointed, but we still had seen enough to know what all the hype was about. If ever we return to South Africa, we are going to rent a vehicle that can go the distance! But as it turned out, it was time to turn around anyway. We absolutely did not want to be late for dinner.

But we still had time for a scenic route on the way back to the guest farm. Lots of free range ostriches, including a pen of young ones.

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But we were certainly glad we made it back in time for dinner, because dinner turned out to be incredible. We had marinated ostrich steaks that Jamesly (our host and owner) grilled on his Braai (BBQ). Hannelie made three salads – a green salad with an amazing vinaigrette, a shredded raw carrot salad with fresh pineapple, and a fresh green bean and feta salad. Along with the grilled ostrich and salads, she also served tiny buttered new potatoes. All of the dishes were wonderful and we ate until we were totally stuffed. Then she served dessert. OMG. Big squares of this amazing concoction (Amarula and Brandy Malva Pudding) with vanilla ice cream on the side. (Hannalie’s recipe for Amarula and Brandy Malva Pudding is on this site BTW.) And as dinner companions, our fellow lodgers could not have been more affable. We had a fabulous time getting to know them and exchanging bits and pieces of our lives with each other. I think this was the first time someone asked us if the whole Donald Trump thing was a joke, albeit somewhat tentatively. We assured all in the room that it was not a joke, but that we sure wished it was. I think we shocked everyone by our candor. But we weren’t about to sugar coat how we really felt about the whole subject. We made some new friends that evening and were sorry to leave them and the wonderful guest farm behind the next morning.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015 – Stellenbosch (Marianne Wine Estate)

Said goodbye to our wonderful hosts and our new friends and onward for our last long drive day. We drove the R62 which took us through the Little Karoo area again. Truly beautiful countryside. We got so lost in the town of Ladysmith that the police had to escort us out of town. (Only the Carrs can get a police escort without being either famous or infamous!) But thank God the police officers took pity on us. Or we would still be in Ladysmith trying to find the main road. How this happened. You all know how scenic roads can be. But in South Africa, scenic also means unpaved and unsigned. So getting lost in Ladysmith came about only because we decided to take the scenic route into town. And as we should have surmised, had we been paying closer attention to our atlas, our scenic little drive ended on the outskirts of town. And being away from any main roads, there was nary a helpful road sign to be found.* (That’s our story of how we ended up being run out of town by the police and we’re sticking to it!)

But eventually we arrived at the Marianne Wine Estate and were promptly told that if we liked, we could partake of that evening’s tapas and wine pairing dinner (it was a winery after all). We liked. So again we enjoyed a wonderful evening of fine dining and charming comradery between the overnight guests.

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*In general the road signs were great everywhere we drove, be it large city or small village. But if you got off the main road, you were totally on your own. Unless of course you stopped a police car and appeared lost and pathetic. (Not hard for us to do!)

Thursday, November 19, 2015 – Stellenbosch (Marianne Wine Estate)

Up at 7:00 am and after a delicious breakfast headed out on a day trip to the Cape of Good Hope. I was really excited to see this area because I had been reading and hearing about this part of the world since I was a small child. And the first thing I discovered was that this section of Table Mountain National Park covers over 19,000 acres. And like many of the misconceptions I had about South Africa, this area was not verdant, it was dry and consisted of rolling hills with low growing bushes until you reach the rocky cape itself.

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The route we chose to get to the park was along the Eastern shore and through many small and beautiful little towns. At one point we began seeing smoke drifting above the hills (they call them mountains, I call them hills!) Finally above the beautiful seaside resort town of Simon’s Town we actually saw flames. It looked like the fire had been set deliberately because it was burning along a long line parallel to the road and way up the side of the hill. Plus we passed 3 firetrucks right along the road, complete with full crews drinking coffee and having what looked like a high old time. We assumed (you know what that makes us) that they were just keeping an eye on the situation. So we continued on our merry way leaving all thoughts of fire far behind.

We drove into the park and headed first to the lighthouse. Rode the funicular most of the way up to the lighthouse, but then had to climb a fairly short set of stairs to the top. Absolutely amazing views and not like any other place on earth.

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After visiting the lighthouse, we drove down to sea level and actually walked on the southwestern most point of the continent. Kind of an amazing feeling to stand on ground that has been so loved by the South African people and so feared by mariners for centuries.

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On our drive out of the park we took a side road and saw bonteboks grazing not far off the road. (Bontebok are an endangered species of antelope.) As we approached the main road in the park, we were stopped and told that we would have to take the western road back to Cape Town. Apparently the fire we had seen earlier had not been set on purpose and the fire was basically out of control. It had already destroyed four homes and had actually made its way down the hill to the main road through Simon’s Town. The road we had traveled earlier that day.

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View from the lighthouse of the smoke from the fire above Simon’s Town.

On our way back into Cape Town, we drove along Chapman’s Peak Road. Work began on this drive in 1910 when it was considered an impossibility. But Charl Marais, a mining surveyor, wasn’t deterred by the task and set about surveying the route by sending a worker ahead of him to chop footholds and create rudimentary platforms for his theodolite. His tenacity paid off, and with the help of 700 convicts, the road was chipped and blasted out of the rock. It officially opened in 1922.

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The drive is absolutely amazing and beautiful beyond words. You drive along narrow lanes that look straight down to the sea. You also drive under overhangs of solid rock. Again, like nothing we had ever experienced.

But soon we were in something we experience all too often. Rush hour. Just like in any other large city, getting anywhere at 5:00 pm in Cape Town is impossible. But we eventually made it home and decided to treat ourselves to dinner at the prestigious Big Easy in Stellenbosch. Apparently the restaurant is partially owned by Ernie Els. Whoever that is! Then back to our pleasant room for another great night’s sleep.

Oh, one more thing about our drive to the cape; we saw Pink Flamingos. I absolutely love Pink Flamingos! (Couldn’t stop to take any pictures because we were zipping along at 120km on a busy freeway.)

Friday, November 19, 2015 – Cape Town (Sunset Decks Guesthouse)

Short day drive to Sunset Beach in the Northern suburbs of Cape Town and our final B&B. Since we had plenty of time we decided to take a side trip through Franschhoek, the culinary capital of the Western Cape region. The town is hemmed in on three sides by mountains, has a very Frenchified atmosphere, and is ever so lovely. I wish we had stopped and walked around, but we had an afternoon destination already planned. After leaving Franschhoek, we drove north over the beautiful Helshoogte Pass complete with troops of baboons. Several females were in each troop. And on the backs of these females – babies. It was marvelous to see.

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Eventually we worked our way down to the main road that leads into Cape Town.

In the afternoon we visited Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, which in 2004 was named a world heritage site. One of the features of this magnificent garden is the Tree Canopy Walkway, a raised steel and timber path that snakes its way up and through the trees of the Arboretum, with panoramic views of the garden and surrounding mountains.

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A truly delightful way to spend an afternoon.

Then on to the B&B and a safe arrival drink with our charming host Lance and his lovely wife June. After dinner at (and I kid you not) Dale’s Black Angus Restaurant for one of the most memorable meals I have ever eaten, it was early to bed.

Saturday, November 21, 2015 – Cape Town (Sunset Decks Guesthouse)

After breakfast, we had our car washed in preparation for returning it to the Avis car rental office. Now we have had our cars washed dozens of times over the years. But never like this car was washed. It took the crew about 40 minutes to go over this vehicle. They cleaned every surface inside and out until there was not a spot of dust, much less dirt clinging to any visible surface. I was absolutely astonished at the level of detail these fine folks applied to this totally unworthy car! But by golly when we returned the car to Avis, no points were taken off for anything! And we had ridden that poor car far and wide across the land. So with car keys turned in, and a free afternoon, we headed to the nearest open air tour bus stop and hopped aboard. We rode the bus until we got to the Victoria & Albert (V&A) Wharf, disembarked and I got down to some serious shopping.

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V&A Wharf with Table Mountain in the background.

Found my beaded giraffe, beaded bowl, and 3 batik panels.

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Had lunch at the local brewery and then headed back to the bus stop for a long two hour bus tour around Cape Town and environs. Back to the V&A Wharf for dinner and then a taxi ride back to the B&B to do some serious packing. Then early to bed so that we could get up, have breakfast, and be shuttled to the airport for our return trip.

A couple other souvenirs from our trip – a hand stitched wall hanging and a mask.

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Sunday, November 22, 2015 – Back to America

No problems with flights, connections, luggage, immigration, shuttles, or anything – except of course tired backsides and legs. But wonderful memories and a lasting appreciation of how lucky we are to be able to travel to such exciting places and see such amazing things.

Monday, November 23, 2015 – Back on Camano Island

Home again, home again – jiggity-jig!

My lasting impressions of the part of South Africa we visited:

Spring is a delightful time to visit

The countryside is beautiful

There are mountains everywhere you look

The Indian Ocean is marvelous

Vegetation is both beautiful and plentiful

Wild animals are fabulous to watch in their natural habitat

Getting out of your car in wild life reserves is forbidden (yah think?)

South Africans are generally friendly, happy, and come with a good sense of humor

Tourist accommodations are fabulous

Road signs are generally good

Roads themselves – sometimes good, sometimes not

The food is fantastic, especially the seafood and beef

Africans sing while they work

Almost everyone speaks English

Speed limits are for everyone else

In general, bathrooms in service stations (and I mean service stations) and restaurants are always clean

Cross walks – you’re kidding, right? Same with rest stops!

The right-of-way on roads is in the following order: children in school uniforms, small buses, trucks, grazing animals, adult pedestrians, everything else, rental cars containing tourists

Prices compared to the USA and Europe – low

Breakfasts, at a minimum, must include – granola, fresh fruit, yogurt, bacon, sausage, cheese, eggs, breads and pastry of various kinds, fresh juice, fried mushrooms, and hot tomatoes

Monkeys are naughty and should not be given food

Baboons are dangerous and should not be given food

Selfies with hippos are not a good idea

DOM PEDRO (ADULT BEVERAGE)

1 pt. good vanilla ice cream

½ c. heavy whipping cream

¼ c. Amarula liqueur (cream liqueur made with the fruit of the Marula tree. BTW – elephants love marula.)

2 tsp. brandy

grated chocolate, for garnish

Put all ingredients (except the grated chocolate) in a blender and whirl until smooth. Pour into glasses and sprinkle with chocolate. Serve immediately.

Variation: use chocolate ice cream with Frangelico liqueur