Part 1 – Mowhinna Creek Campground – Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
Sunday, September 8, 2024 – Mowhinna Creek Campground – Salt Spring Island, BC – site 47
Left our trailer storage area at 10:30 am, which is amazing considering that I am not a morning person. So, getting up early is not something I look forward to regardless of what the day happens to portend.
But off we went without a hitch. Actually, we did have a hitch. Which of course is something you really need when pulling a trailer!
First stop – the Canadian border at Peace Arch in Blaine, Washington.
The Peace Arch is valued as a symbol of the peaceful co-existence of two nations and marks the western edge of the longest undefended border in the world. And just because we had absolutely adhered to every regulation we could read about regarding bringing food and alcohol from Washington State into Canada, the only questions we were asked by the nice man who held our life in his hands were 1) where we were going in Canada, 2) how long we would be in Canada, 3) did we have any firearms in either the truck or trailer, or 4) were we carrying any live animals on board? I wanted to answer that Mr. C. was a live animal, but I thought better of messing with the guy. Over the years it has been my experience that border crossing folks have absolutely no sense of humor. So, I showed remarkable restraint, and we were allowed to proceed onto the hallowed grounds of Canada after about a minute of intense questioning. So, now what to do with our time between noon and our 5:15 pm ferry reservation? Have lunch, of course!
So, we went into the thriving metropolis of Tsawwassen to look for any café or restaurant where we could find a place to park. Believe me, you haven’t lived until you have been in a town and your truck and trailer together are 45 feet long. (And we have a small 25-foot trailer. Imagine towing a 36-foot trailer! No, don’t even go there. It’s too horrifying to even imagine.)
Anyway, we found a place to eat (White Spot Restaurant) right next to a large parking lot and enjoyed a very nice meal.
After lunch we headed for the ferry terminal. When we got to the ticket booth, we were so early that the ticket lady had to call and see if we could get in line or if not, we would have to leave the area and come back later. Luckily, we were allowed to get in line. And yes, we were the first in line. So, 4 hours later, we were the second to the last vehicle escorted onto the ferry. (See how that works!)
But even though we were worried about getting totally bored for those 4 hours, they went by in a flash. There was so much activity going on at the terminal, we were absolutely captivated watching ferries come and go and all the employees doing this and that. We even heard an announcement for the driver of a black EVO to return to the ticket booth. We then saw the EVO sneaking in and out through the lanes trying to escape the police car that was right on its tail. Apparently, the driver had gone through a booth without paying. But just like at an airport, there is a tall structure that looks like an air traffic control tower where the entire terminal can be closely monitored. So, this poor EVO driver really didn’t have a chance. And since you too may have no idea what an “EVO” is, allow me to explain. The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution, popularly referred to as the ‘Evo’, is a sports sedan and rally car based on the Lancer that was manufactured by Japanese manufacturer Mitsubishi Motors from 1992 until 2016.
So, now we are on the ferry for a very calm crossing.
Looking down on our trailer from the sun deck
Then on to Ganges and our camp site for the next 4 nights.
After supper it was an early to bed. Suffice it to say we were so tired neither of us opened our books. That my friends, is a rare occurrence.
Monday, September 9, 2024 –Mowhinna Creek Campground
Slept in until 9:00 am. (We really needed the rest.) Then after a big breakfast, we decided to take a ride up the northern part of the island. We had been on Salt Spring Island 20 years ago for a wedding (nephew Rolfe and Rebecca) but had not been on this Gulf Island since. And since Rebecca calls Salt Spring Island her “favorite place on Earth”, we decided to pick her brain about what to see and do while we were here. So, with a list in hand, we hopped in the truck and away we went.
Our only stop on this first day was for seafood in Vesuvius at the Seaside Restaurant. Nice outdoor seating right next to the ferry terminal where we watched a ferry come in and leave. And we realized we could take that ferry when we left on Thursday for Vancouver Island. It would save us several miles (excuse me) “klicks” of driving. Plus, the boat was fairly small, and it looked like it would be fun to ride.
Picture of the ferry from our restaurant table
Then we decided to go to the Mount Maxwell lookout. Right! We made it quite away up the very poor road. But when it not only got rougher, narrower, and steeper, we turned around. Four-wheel drive truck and all, but it was just a bit too much for me. When Andy asked me if we should maybe turn around, I instantly answered yes. And there is still no question in my mind that we made the correct decision.
Then back to camp for me to sit outside our trailer and read while Andy took a quick hike around Ruckle Park where Rolfe and Rebecca had been married.
Upon his return to camp, it was time for happy hour. Then dinner and Andy back to his book and me to write up this post.
Then lights out thinking about what mischief we could get into the next day.
Tuesday – September 10, 2024 – Mowhinna Creek Campground
I actually slept until 9:00 am this morning. And it was delightful. I think I mainly sleep better in our trailer because I don’t have a cat cuddled up to me all night. Plus, fewer commitments at home that I sometimes worry to death when I should be sleeping peacefully. But the fact of the matter is that I love being able to sleep until I jolly well feel like dragging my old bones upright from delectable horizontality. And I know. It sounds like we take these mini vacations just to rest and relax. And you would be spot on! We appreciate our getaways so that Andy can take a break from our homeowners’ association on which he serves as treasurer and from his busy gigging schedule. But don’t get me wrong. We love our busy lives, but the 3 or 4 times a year when we can take a respite from reality, we kick back and relax like we can’t at home.
So, for today, it was more adventures on the beautiful Salt Spring Island.
And during our drive we saw some beautiful countryside. We climbed up and down over hill and dale, passed freshwater lakes, feathered friends,
encountered a myriad of saltwater inlets,
St. Paul’s Catholic Church, which is Salt Spring Island’s oldest church built between 1880 and 1885. Founded in 1878 by Father Doncklele who was the first Roman Catholic missionary on the Gulf Islands,
Fulford Harbour
and more farm stands than we could count. At one farm stand we bought tomatoes, pattypan squash, and beautiful green beans.
(Apparently there are about 200 farm stands on the island.) Then we stopped at the Salt Spring Island Cheese shop and purchased some delicious goat cheese. At the Tuesday Farmers Market in Ganges, we bought corn on the cob and a wool dryer ball.
And should you be as ignorant of dryer balls as I was until recently, allow me to explain. Dryer balls are commonly made of tightly compressed wool. They help prevent laundry from clumping together in the dryer by tumbling between layers and separating fabric. This action allows warm air to circulate better which can help reduce drying time. The movement of the dryer balls against fabrics can also help fight wrinkles, prevent static, and soften clothes. So, of course I had to have one.
Then we stopped at Buzzy’s Luncheonette, a small Jewish establishment where they proudly make their sandwiches with their own Montreal smoked meat.
Our final stop for the day was the Embe Bakery in Ganges. We had been advised to try one of their Eccles Cakes, but they were sold out. So, Andy enjoyed an Affogato, and I had a marvelous strawberry ice cream cone.
Then back to camp for a late afternoon read in the sun for me while Andy decided to take a nice beach walk.
So, off he went while I finished Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, winner of the Nobel Prize.
When Andy returned it was cocktail time and time to watch the Presidential debate. While we rarely watch debates, I really wanted to hear and see what each of the presidential candidates had to say. And once again I was reminded that there are responsible, caring people in this world, and others who are only in it for themselves. And I couldn’t help but wonder once again, why every American citizen over the age of 18 wasn’t seeing, hearing, and comprehending the same thing I was witnessing. One of the candidates was speaking like a wise and informed adult. The other candidate sounded like a spoiled 4-year-old with boundaries yet to be learned. And why anyone could believe that someone with a proven record of detestable behavior would care in the least what happened to them or to future generations is way beyond my comprehension. The thought that some of the listeners couldn’t see through all the elephant excrement left me absolutely repulsed! And very sad for what might happen to our country. Because the same people who depend most on social security, Medicare, Medicaid, low-cost medical insurance, and the rights of women to take responsibility for their own bodies, are the very ones who have the most to lose if an elephant is elected in November. An elephant, the symbol of the Republican party, supposedly represents intelligence, dignity, and strength. But that is not what I see represented any longer. I see just the opposite. So, for the immediate future the only thing I can do is forget about the whole mess and cook dinner. So, that’s just what I did.
After dinner it was read and write and lights out. Another wonderful day on Salt Spring Island.
Wednesday – September 11, 2024 – Mowhinna Creek Campground
Woke up several times during the night to the pitter-pat of rain on our trailer roof. Not a bad sound, but not a good omen for what kind of day we might expect upon awakening. But when dawn arrived there was a reduction of sprinkles, and patches of sun appeared periodically. So, although it wasn’t warm, it wasn’t cold either. We decided the first part of today’s road adventure would be a visit to the Embe Bakery in Ganges to see if they had any Eccles cakes with our name on them. But before I go any further, I should give you the reasons I was so determined to try one of these pastries. First, our niece-in-law Rebecca had told us we simply must buy one while we were visiting Salt Spring Island. The second reason is because Maisie Dobbs, the female private investigator protagonist in Jacqueline Winspear’s fabulous series set in post–World War I London, is crazy about Eccles cakes and orders them everywhere she dines. So, having read as many of the books in the series as I could find, I decided I too must find out what all the fuss was about. And boy am I glad they were available this morning. Not cheap. Six Canadian dollars for one very small pastry. But they are truly delicious. They are basically a spiced currant and candied citrus peel filled pastry covered with flaky sugar.
A whole Eckles Cake – looks big but it’s only about 4 inches wide. (It’s on a small plate.)
Cut so you can see the filling.
After leaving the bakery, we decided to visit the local arts and crafts store. Very nice works of art which included a wooden whale’s tail (fluke) that followed us out of the shop and now resides at Chez Carr.
A beautiful charcuterie board that didn’t follow us out of the store. (But I now wish it had.)
A lovely guitar that I also wish we had purchased, but figured Vicki could use this picture as a prototype.
Then we hit the local grocery store for a couple of provisions before starting another drive around the island.
One of the places that we found the most beautiful was Burgoyne Bay. I could have stayed there for hours just looking at the calm water and beautiful landscape.
As we were driving, I told Andy that I could happily live on this island. However, I would miss all the musical opportunities available to him where we live. And that I would also miss live theater and all the other cultural events at the level of competency with which we have become accustomed. Not to mention our dear friends that we couldn’t see on a regular basis. Or easy access for our relatives to come and visit us. So, although we plan to return to Salt Spring Island as often as possible, we think we’ll stay on Camano for the foreseeable future.
Back at our trailer we had a late lunch and Andy decided to take another exploratory walk. But for me it was to write up today’s events, which incidentally gives me a great deal of pleasure.
Oh, and if you happen to be wondering if Eccles cakes are in my baking future, if you don’t know the answer by now, you simply have not been paying attention or have never met me! (Of course, I’m going to make these as soon as I get home.)
After dinner we read our respective books until we could no longer keep our eyes open.
Tomorrow it’s on to Vancouver Island for 3 different camping sites. A total of 13 nights. And I can hardly wait. But I will really miss Salt Spring Island. The people are friendly, and the scenery is amazing. And I love all the farm stands. You can find everything from art to apples, corn to cucumbers, flowers to milled flour. And each time you are putting a bit of money in a local farmer’s or craft person’s hands.
(Segment 2 already posted – May 10 through May 15)
(Segment 3 already posted – May 16 through May 21)
MAY 22, 2024 – STEAMBOAT ROCK STATE PARK, ELECTRIC CITY – site 36
Woke up in the middle of the night to raindrops falling on my head. Not really. But raindrops performing a patter song on our trailer. Not what you want to hear, especially when it’s a day to hitch up and head to your next campground. But by about 10:00 am the rain had stopped. So, we managed to escape camp without having to change out of wet clothes. Always a good sign.
Then back down SH-153 along the Methow River to Pateros. Then left (north) on to US-97 (straight would have dumped us in the Columbia River) to Brewster. At Brewster we left 97, crossed the Columbia River and were now on SH-173. At Bridgeport we once again changed state highways. We were then on SH-17 which goes up and up over barren hills until we reached Leah and turned on to SH-174. Which continued our up, up, up and away until it was down, down, down to Coulee Dam. At which point we turned south, southwest on SH-155 through Electric City and to our final destination – Steamboat Rock State Park.
After getting set up we had a small lunch.
Who cares if it’s sunny or warm. I’ve got my love to keep me warm. That and a nice lunch and perhaps a safe arrival beer.
While happily sitting in our trailer it started to rain. So, we had just missed the rainstorm both hitching up and unhitching. Some days are just better than others. And we were safe and sound in a park we love, with our back window facing the lake. Banks Lake to be precise.
Banks Lake, part of the Columbia Basin Project, was created by building two rock-faced, earth filled dams at the north and south ends of the Ice-Age channel of the Columbia River, now known as Grand Coulee. The reservoir is 27 miles long with 27,000 water surface acres. Water is pumped for irrigation from Lake Roosevelt by 12 huge pumps up 280 feet into the lake.
We had previously stayed at this lovely park in 2016 and had been eager to return. It truly is beautiful in the Grand Coulee area.
But after a long day of driving, we were happy to stay in our trailer, me writing, and Andy plotting a short hike for himself the next day. At that particular moment (I call it a 15-minute lucky streak), all was all right with the world.
MAY 23, 2024 – STEAMBOAT ROCK STATE PARK
Woke to the promise of rain, wind, thunder clouds, and clear skies – a complete change every 15 minutes. So, after breakfast we decided a ride was in order. So, with our trusty Washington Road & Recreation Atlas in hand, off we went.
Our first adventure was to go north a short way along Banks Lake to the Northrop Point Day use area. A huge boat launching and picnic area. Then up Northrop Canyon to where Andy would take a 3-mile round trip hike later in the afternoon.
Steamboat Rock from our drive
Beautiful foliage along the drive. (Wild roses I’m guessing.)
Next, we drove south along the shore of Banks Lake to the very end and followed US-2 west to Jamison Lake Road which took us north through Moses Coulee to (you guessed it) Jamison Lake. And what a beautiful lake we found.
Up close look at the basalt formation
This photo shows the basalt sides of Moses Coulee. Amazing.
The lake was charming. Complete with a blue heron and various species of ducks including loons. And of course, throughout the entire drive up and back from the lake we were able to enjoy a close-up view of the majestic rock walls of this coulee. Most of the vertical walls consisting of basalt columns. And as everyone knows, basalt, which composes about 90% of all volcanic rock on earth, is an aphanitic extrusive igneous rock formed from the rapid cooling of low-viscosity lava rich in magnesium and iron exposed at or very near a planet’s surface.
After spending a bit of time enjoying the natural wonders this area had to offer, we headed back through Coulee City and up to Billy Clapp Lake. Our map indicated that there was a waterfall, but we sure couldn’t find one. But the ride was nice.
It’s interesting to be driving along and suddenly you are on one of the many bridges over the large canal (water released from Banks Lake) that supplies much of the irrigation water for the area around Ephrata and the upper Columbia Basin. Basically, the massive fields of grain, etc. north of Moses Lake. I would have expected the water to be murky. But it’s not. It’s crystal clear and blue.
Then we gassed up in Coulee City and drove back to camp for a small lunch before Andy took off for his afternoon hike. I stayed in camp and read outside until I was driven inside the trailer by a short rainstorm.
After Andy arrived back at the trailer a little after 5:00 pm, we headed over to Dave and Jeri’s trailer for dinner. Along with their dear friends Doug and Ramona, we had a fantastic meal. Chicken cordon blue lasagna, romaine salad with dried cranberries and glazed pecans, warm crusty bread, and strawberry tiramisu for dessert. All of which Jeri prepared in their trailer. And yes, I was more than impressed. I have never made anything that elaborate in our trailer. But it certainly was a call for me to up my game!
This was our second dinner with these lovely people. And had been planned before we left home. But because of our previous truck problems at Summerhill Farm, we had been fortunate enough to have not just one but two wonderful dinners and evenings in their presence.
Then back to our trailer for Andy to take a shower, me to do some writing, and the heavens to open. Nothing like a hard rain to settle the dust. And from the sound of things, there won’t be any dust around for quite some time.
Then to bed to dream of traveling to our next destination after yet another fun day in Eastern Washington.
MAY 24, 2024 – TUCANNON RIVER RV PARK – site 18
Well, once again it was time to hitch up Pullwinkle. The name of our trailer because we (and I use the term “we” loosely) have a whole “moose” theme going on in our 24-foot, 7-inch home away from home. But there was yet another wonderful RV park to visit on this trip.
We would have loved to stay longer at Steamboat Rock SP, but even though I booked our sites on January 7th, there weren’t any available for the Memorial Day weekend. In fact, we were lucky to reserve the Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights just prior to Memorial Day. Or as I refer to Memorial Day – “Campground Madness Day”. And then even luckier to be right on Banks Lake.
FYI – booking campsites has literally become a competitive sport! I’m just surprised it has yet to qualify as an Olympic sport because there are definitely winners and losers! And you must prepare for an upcoming “event” months in advance. (I rest my case!)
So, what did we learn on our drive from Coulee City to around the time we hit the Lyons Ferry bridge? Well, having never been on most of our route today, we were amazed by all the farmland. Mile after mile after mile of wheat and what we believe to be canola plants. More land devoted to crops than we ever imagined. (BTW, just driving along I-90 does not give you the same scenery or perspective on how this land is being utilized. I-90 provides you mainly with acre after acre of sagebrush!)
According to spokesman.com “Travelers driving through the rolling hills of the Palouse this summer may have noticed more fields that glow bright yellow. The yellow blossoms belong to the canola plant, which has become a hot commodity for Eastern Washington farmers.
Canola production and planting acreage in Washington has increased steadily over the last 10 years, according to data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. In 2011, around 11,000 acres were planted with canola, compared to more than 118,000 acres planted in 2021. In Whitman County alone, canola acreage doubled year-to-year in 2021.”
And where we used to think of this plant as simply rapeseed, it has become confusing. Rapeseed and canola oil are still from the same species. Rapeseed is the traditional name for the group of oilseed crops in the Brassicaceae family. However, that group is now divided into two products. Although derived from the same plant, rapeseed is used for industrial purposes. While canola is a genetically modified version used in cooking. And bottom line – canola oil along with olive oil and safflower oils are healthier choices overall than butter. (Since this report is being posted on a cooking blog, I felt compelled to make some kind of cooking reference.)
Along with all the planted fields, we also witnessed many, many fallow fields. Which made me wonder if we were still paying farmers not to plant crops.
According to Robert Frank, guest blogger for PBS when asked – Why does the government pay farmers not to grow crops?
“Paying farmers not to grow crops was a substitute for agricultural price support programs designed to ensure that farmers could always sell their crops for enough to support themselves. The price support program meant that farmers had to incur the expense of plowing their fields, fertilizing, irrigating, spraying, and harvesting them, and then selling their crops to the government, which stored them in silos until they either rotted or were consumed by rodents. It was much cheaper just to pay farmers not to grow the crops in the first place.
Of course, paying people not to do work is bound to be politically awkward (think of the old New Yorker cartoon of an accordion player on a subway platform with a sign next to his cup that read, “Will not play Lady of Spain, 25 cents”). So, the government described the program as an environmental one rather than an income maintenance scheme. As described to the public, it was compensation to farmers for retiring acreage to reduce fertilizer and pesticide runoff into the nation’s water supply.”
Washington Farm Subsidy Breakdown, 1995-2023
Commodity programs – $3.64 billion
Crop Insurance Subsidies – $1.78 billion
Disaster Programs – $718 million
Conservation Programs – $2.15 billion
Seems pretty high, but according to Pam Lewison, Director, Center for Agriculture in an article on washingtonpolicy.org “There are 14,700,000 acres farmed in Washington state. The U.S. Department of Agriculture 2017 Census of Agriculture shows there are 6.4 million acres of irrigated farmland and an additional 10,000 acres dedicated to other irrigated agricultural land uses. The counties included in the ECONorthwest study – Adams, Asotin, Benton, Columbia, Franklin, Garfield, Walla Walla, Whitman – account for 4,975,510 acres, or 33 percent, of the total farmland in our state.
Whitman County boasts the largest amount of farmland acres in the study with 1.2 million and has developed into the breadbasket of our state while remaining a largely dryland farming area. Whitman County leads the state in grain production with approximately $259 million in sales recorded in the 2017 Census of Agriculture.
Benton County has half as many acres devoted to farmland, with 613,000, but leads the state in production of some of Washington’s most irrigation-dependent crops – vegetables, melons, potatoes, and sweet potatoes and generated just over $1 billion in sales in 2017. Despite having half the acreage, the bounty of Benton County is more valuable than that of Whitman County, simply because it has more irrigated land.
Irrigation water in agriculture is extremely valuable. As demonstrated by the difference in revenue between Whitman and Benton counties, the assertion by this study that “dryland farming is economically feasible in the region” does not mean that it is the most effective means for all farmers in the region to operate their businesses.
Additionally, the study cites 198,227 acres of “non-irrigated cereal grains cultivated within a five-mile radius of the Lower Snake River Dams area. The ubiquitous nature of the number of acres of non-irrigated cereal grains in the region does not necessarily indicate a positive economic correlation to dry land farming. Referring back to the difference between Whitman and Benton counties, Whitman County, where non-irrigated cereal grains drive the agricultural economy, the average size of a farm is approximately 1,200 acres. In comparison, in Benton County, where heavily irrigated crops provide nearly five times as much income, farms are approximately 400 acres in size.”
But enough about the economics of farming in this part of the world. Just suffice it to say there is a lot of land being cultivated. And there isn’t enough money in the world to get me to live such an isolated existence. I’d be climbing the farmhouse walls within 2 days!
And since I probably will never come to this campground on the same roads we traveled today, even though I saw more flour and canola oil on the hoof (so to speak) than I could ever have imagined, it was interesting. Once!
After leaving Steamboat Rock SP, we turned right onto SH-155 to Coulee City. Then we headed east on US-2 towards the huge burg of Wilbur where we turned south onto SH-21 towards Odessa. (Hopefully the “Odessa” in the Ukraine is more interesting than Odessa, Washington. Just saying!) Anyway, then left onto Rosenoff Road and into the thriving town of Ritzville where we stopped for lunch.
From there it was under I-90 and south to Washtucna on SH-261. (We do find the most interesting places on our travels! Washtucna however, not being one of them.) Then SH-260 for a brief spell, and back on SH-261 to cross the Snake River at the Lyons Ferry Bridge and past the bustling dot on the map (Starbuck} and our final destination – Tucannon River RV Resort. Which BTW is worth the ride!
Then settle in, enjoy happy hour, and an early to bed for me.
MAY 25, 2024 – TUCANNON RIVER RV PARK
Once again it was windy, cloudy, sunny, you name it, we had it. Except for snow or rain, which of course was very nice.
After breakfast Andy headed out for a short hike to Marmes Pond. Not a hard hike, but enjoyable just being outside.
While Andy hiked, I wrote up yesterday’s adventures. When he returned, we decided to go for a drive. So, we turned left out of our campground and proceeded to Starbuck. Not Starbucks, because there was no coffee involved with this visit. We were simply driving through town (and I use the term “town” exceedingly loosely), looking for the Kellog Hollow Road. And of course there were no road signs. But how many roads can there be out of a town of 121 people (as of 2022)! So, with Mr. Cs innate ability to find his way through a dark cave blindfolded, we found the right road. And when I say the “right” road, I truly mean it.
This was one of the most beautiful drives I have ever taken. A narrow hollow through beautiful, cultivated fields and at the “top” of the road, a view into the snowy Blue Mountains. Gorgeous vistas. At a T in the road, we turned right onto Mackay-Alto, then onto Cannery Road for a mile or so into the charming small town of Waitsburg. Pretty older homes, well taken care of, with mature trees providing lots of shade, I’m sure absolutely treasured during the long, hot summer months.
Then back onto US-12 to Dayton where we shopped for groceries. Although Waitsburg and Dayton are not that far apart geographically, they are worlds apart when it comes to charm and pleasant amenities. Dayton is dry and pedestrian, whereas Waitsburg looks like a small college town. Filled with people who obviously take pride in their own homes and in their well-kept city.
Then back to camp to enjoy the late afternoon reading in our comfy outdoor chairs.
At about 5:30 pm I started dinner since we had not had any lunch.
After dinner it was reading for both of us until we could no longer keep our eyes open.
But what a wonderful day. If you are ever in this area and camped at Tucannon River RV Park, I recommend you drive the loop described above.
In May, when the wheat is only about a foot tall and the most beautiful green you’ve ever seen, the loop drive is amazing. In September, when the hills are dry, maybe not so much. But regardless, this is a unique and interesting part of our beautiful state. And we are thoroughly enjoying our time here.
MAY 26, 2024 – TUCANNON RIVER RV PARK
When is it not wonderful to wake up to clear skies? Well, perhaps in August, but definitely not today May 26th. Because the temperature is perfect, and we have a great plan for today. But first, a hearty breakfast. So, after a link sausage, sharp cheddar cheese, and 4 farm-fresh eggs scramble, a toasted half English muffin each, a half grapefruit each, and lime-flavored yogurt, we were ready for an adventure.
First, we headed up to Palouse Falls. We had been there last April, but we were a little later this spring and thought there might be more water careening down the face of a cliff. And we were right. The falls were magnificent.
As we were driving away from the park, Andy asked me if I would enjoy a longer ride because he had a suggestion if I was game. And of course, I am always up for a bit of an escapade. And what an exciting adventure it turned out to be. We decided to go check out the Lower Granite Lock and Dam. Never been there? Well, you will want to visit it after I tell you about what a great experience we had.
Between 1955 and 1975, the US Army Corp of Engineers built 4 dams along the lower Snake River. One of the dams being the Lower Granite Lock and Dam which is set in an area of towering walls of basalt columns and majestic views.
The drive down to the river and dam
The facility includes a dam, a navigation lock, powerhouse, a fish ladder, and associated facilities such as a visitor’s center. It provides hydropower, navigation, flood risk management, fish and wildlife habitat, recreation, and incidental irrigation. The dam is about 3,200 feet long with an effective height of 100 feet. And the really cool part is that you can drive over this concrete behemoth.
Of course, first you have to check in with a guard who writes down your vehicle license plate number and your driver’s license number. Then off you go making your way across this massive concrete structure which includes several tight turns. All the while every bit of the journey is just begging to be photographed. But there are very strict rules about stopping on the dam. Number 1 being – don’t stop. And unsaid but perfectly understood by anyone with half a brain – don’t jump! But as Andy slowly drove across this amazing man-made structure, I was able to snap a few pictures from the passenger side open window. As you approach the other side of the dam, there is another guard station and a gate to be raised if you have dutifully made no errors in judgement as you make the crossing. We apparently hadn’t been bad because they let us go through.
The following are pictures taken along our crossing
Our approach to the visitor’s center
Fish ladder system near the visitor’s center
View back across the dam
Another view back at the dam
Next, we stopped at the visitor center. Nice facility with bathrooms, a short film about the dam, and picnic tables right next to the churning water. All and all, a great place to visit.
But before you even reach the dam, the last part of the drive down to the river is worth the whole trip. So, before I go any further, I will record the route we took to get to the dam. It was part of another loop trip and made for a lovely way to see the surrounding countryside.
After leaving Palouse Falls, we turned right onto SH-261. Then 260 to Washtucna. Then 40 miles on SH-26 to Summers Road then turned right on Almota/SH-194 down to the water. Then left along the water until we got to the dam gate.
After crossing the dam and a quick stop at the visitor’s center, we proceeded along the river shore until it was up through more cultivated hills and away from the river.
Something you should know. There is not a straight road to be had in this part of the country. OK, maybe if you are on I-90. But the rest of the roads are up down curvy and fairly narrow. At least the ones we drove, that is! And paved. We were advised by the gate keeper at the dam to stay on the paved roads. So, that’s just what we did.
But he was not always able to provide us with the name or number of the roads he suggested we take. More on the “turn right at the intersection after the white house” kind of instructions. Turned out to be Gould City – Mayfair Road. Then a sweeping right turn (his description) onto (as it turned out) Dead Man Road (along Dead Man Creek) and down to SR-127 (the road that eventually goes over Central Ferry Bridge which we did not cross). Instead, we turned left and to US-12 which brought us back to camp.
At camp we rested for about an hour and then headed to and through Dayton to visit the Dumas Station Winery where Mr. C. thought the wine was great and therefore purchased 6 bottles. Then back into Dayton for pizza at the Chief Springs Pub.
Then back to camp for a bit of reading before our pillows kept yelling at us to “come to bed”. And as everyone knows, when pillows beckon, it’s futile to not pay attention. Pillows after all know what’s best for us! And we have learned after years of fighting their siren call, that even if we ignore them, they will win in the end.
Another fun day in Eastern Washington. But I swear, I am never going back to Washtucna!
MAY 27, 2024 – DAROGA STATE PARK, ORANDO – site 9
Once again it was time to move to a new location. Sometimes I am eager to get going. Other times like today, I’m sorry to say goodbye to an RV park that has become an old friend. And that’s how I felt today. Even though this was only our second time camping at Tucannon, I wasn’t ready to leave. It’s simply a well-run, clean, and lovely place to park a trailer.
But we had a long drive ahead of us today, so we were up early and on the road by 10:00 am.
I’m not going to make this a long report. It was just a travel day. But our route was basically interesting because most of the way was either new or infrequently traveled roads for us.
Leaving our campground, we turned left onto 261. Just before the Lyons Ferry Bridge we turned left onto Lyons Ferry Road until we reached SH-124. Turned right on 124 and drove to Pasco where we turned north onto US-395. Around Mesa we turned onto SH-17 through Moses Lake, Soap Lake, and past Sun Lakes SP. Just before Coulee City we turned west onto US-2 and followed it to Orando on the east bank of the Columbia River. Then right on US-97 for a short run to camp.
The most interesting part of our travel today was the last 6 miles while we descended to the Columbia River. Winding road, fairly steep, but absolutely beautiful. And when we pulled into the camp, we immediately knew we were going to be happy here. Nicely placed sites with a great view of the water. Large trees, green lawns, and no traffic noise. (There was a train track across the river, but we have never considered the sound of a train to be “noise”.)
Also, right across the river was an interesting geological site. I was immediately amazed that we had driven along alternate US-97 many times without realizing how the formation we were right beside was as tall and cliff-like as you can plainly see from across the river. Andy remembered that right out of Entiat there was a marker that referred to this area as Ribbon Cliffs at Earthquake Point.
The vertical face of Earthquake Point from our campsite.
Pictures of this amazing place from other areas.
According to roadsideamerica.com “Earthquake Point and Ribbon Cliffs are natural formations left by a huge earthquake. The debris from the resulting rockslide actually stopped the flow of the Columbia River in December of 1872. The Indians in the area were told six months before the earthquake to move to a reservation upriver. This earthquake was taken as a sign, since the riverbed dried up as a result of the temporary dam built by the slide of debris. There are also black “ribbons” visible in the cliffs that were long-buried lava, now exposed. That’s how they got the name, Ribbon Cliffs.”
Needless to say, the cliffs are very dramatic. Spectacular would also define this small area of exposed rock and lava perfectly. So, once again, the state of Washington has provided us with another terrific place to park our trailer.
All in all, another wonderful day of seeing new places and discovering some of the natural wonders that make our state such a fantastic place to live.
MAY 28, 2024 – DAROGA STATE PARK
Woke to semi-sunny weather but lots of wind and a small chance of rain. So, what to do today? Go golfing of course! So, Andy made a tee time for 11:49 am at a golf course in Chelan.
Now this was not just a golf course. This was a posh golf course. Up on the side of a mountain with fantastic views of Lake Chelan. And no, I don’t golf. I went along as the golf cart designated driver and staff photographer. And yes, I love to drive golf carts and watch as Andy spends time hitting a very small ball into a very small hole. While trying very hard to stay on the fairway and not hit any trees or lose any balls in either a marsh, lake, rattlesnake or bear (first hint) den, ruff, or the yard of one of the homes situated sometimes quite close to the fairway or green. But with a bit of luck, and a goodly amount of skill, he didn’t lose a ball or even end up battling his ball out of one of the plentiful deep sided sand traps. (To tell the truth, I was very impressed.)
Now, in case you were wondering what course we visited, I will give you the name later in my narrative. (Hints will be given along the way.) Because for those of you who have golfed in the area, you might find it fun to guess the name of the course as I describe the fun time we had.
When we first arrived, we were met by a nice older gentleman in a golf cart that would turn out to be our ride for 16 holes. He thought it was grand that I was along to act as this fine gentleman’s chauffeur. Then he explained some of the intricacies of a few of the holes to Andy and introduced me to the idiosyncrasies of the lithium battery powered contraption that would carry us up and down this very hilly mountain (second hint) golf course. But first to the clubhouse to pay for today’s adventure. Next bathroom stops for both of us before heading for the first tee.
Now I am not an expert golf cart driver, but I’m not a novice either. But this was the most fun I’ve ever had driving Mr. Carr from hole to hole. The majestic vistas along the way were enough to keep me thoroughly entertained. Along with Andy’s commentary about each hole. And to make driving more interesting, use of the large brake pedal was required between many of the holes. Also, the “give it gas” pedal was also put into play a lot since many of the fairways were uphill battles. And then there was the wind. And I do mean WIND. Not a nice gentle breeze, but a force that sometimes rocked the golf cart. By the 14th hole, I was forced to add a 4th layer to stave off frost bite. Not really. It wasn’t that cold. But it sure wasn’t warm either.
Some pictures along the way
Well, I suppose I should provide you with the name of this golf course. Because if you are ever in the Chelan area and want to drive yourself crazy by hitting a tiny ball into the habitat of bears, deer, cougars, snakes, and every kind of ground varmint known to civilized man, then this is the place for you! It’s called Bear Mountain Ranch Golf Course.
And from their website “The Golf Course at Bear Mountain Ranch is a Championship level 18-hole public play course providing residents and visiting golfers with upscale services and amenities.
Opened in 2005, BMR was recently ranked as one of the top six new golf courses in the United States by PGA Professionals and in 2014 it was rated 10th best in Washington State. The golf course utilizes the rolling terrain and natural plateaus, providing golfers with panoramic views and a spectacular golf experience. In addition to the lush fairways and bent grass greens, it is not unusual to spot a deer and other wildlife on any of the holes.
Open from April to the end of October, the immaculately maintained, 350-acre course with an elevation gain of 700 feet, compares with many of the finest resort courses in the country.
The course easily accommodates golfers of all experience levels, from beginner to expert, by offering five sets of tees per hole.”
By the time we got back to camp it was 4:10 pm. And we were hungry since our lunch had consisted of a granola bar each. So, after Mr. C. mixed me a drink, I got busy building big old hamburgers. With chips on the side.
After dinner we read for a while and then an early to bed for both of us.
Another wonderful day of fresh air, beautiful surroundings, and the joy of being in each other’s company. Who could ask for any more from life?
MAY 29, 2024 – DAROGA STATE PARK
A bit about Daroga State Park
Daroga State Park is a 90-acre camping park with 1.5 miles of Columbia River shoreline on the elevated edge of the desert “scablands.” The park features camping activities and water-sport access in a unique and beautiful outdoor environment. The name “Daroga” comes from the first letters in the first names of the three Auvil brothers, Dave, Robert and Grady, who started an orchard/ranch at this site in 1928. The brothers developed a new type of peach on the ranch, catalogued as “the Daroga Peach.” In 1981, Grady Auvil sold the property to the state of Washington.
Well, the sun was shining this morning when we awoke, but the wind was still blowing. I don’t think we’ve had a calm day since we arrived in eastern Washington. Not one. But it also hasn’t rained on any of our hitching or unhitching. Which is always desirable.
After breakfast Andy took a long walk around our campground while I wrote up yesterday’s golfing adventure. When he got back from his walk I was finished writing, so we decided to take a short loop drive back up into the hills immediately east of us.
Looking down at Wenatchee from the east
So, back to Orando and east on US-2 towards Waterville. Just before we reached the teeming metropolis of Waterville, we turned right onto P Road NW. At the T we turned right onto Badger Mountain Road past the Badger Mountain ski area (lame) and up into the hills. And what a nice ride this was. Then down, down, down to East Wenatchee. But all along the way down this long hill we could see everything from Mission Ridge to the mountains behind Leavenworth and even further north. We could also see all of Wenatchee sprawled before us. Actually, an incredible vista.
On the way back to camp we turned into Lincoln Rock State Park to give it a look see. We immediately decided that this was a state park that we very much needed to stay at in the future. Even the wildlife (marmots) came out to greet us as we were driving around this very popular campground.
Then back to camp for some lunch and reading our books outside in the sun. After a bit I decided even if the sun was shining, it was still too bloody cold to sit outside. The wind was still periodically whipping through the area and trying it’s darndest to knock over my comfy camp chair even thought I was still in the chair! The nerve of it! I finally decided the wind had won and came inside.
But I could still see Mr. C. and the mighty Columbia through the trailer’s back window when occasionally I lifted my eyes from the words of Michael Dibdin. A nice way to spend our last full day in camp.
When both of us became hungry, we drove into Wenatchee for dinner at Red Robin. I didn’t feel like cooking, and we didn’t have any local knowledge about where to eat. So, we chose a restaurant where we knew we could find something on the menu we liked.
Then back to camp for our last night in the trailer. And my last night for a while without my other bed buddy Max, the cling on kitty.
But I’m ready to go home. And best of all, we were headed back to our favorite camping place – Chez Carr. There truly is no place like home.
MAY 30, 2024 – CHEZ CARR, CAMANO ISLAND – site 1082 Lightning Way
Being the intrepid travelers that we are, we decided to take the North Cascades Highway home. Great choice.
There is just something about the grandeur of this part of our state that almost brings me to tears. How can anything be this beautiful? And how can any person living in this part of the world not want to make sure this beauty is still around for future generations?
Some pictures I snapped along the North Cascades Highway
I’ve said it before, and I will continue to say it – I am lucky. Lucky to have a wonderful husband, family, and friends who care about the environment, care about the rights of others, don’t care what “color” anyone happens to come in, doesn’t give a flying fig about a person’s sexual persuasion, and respects a woman’s right to make choices about her own body. To name a few of the qualities that make for thoughtful and humanitarian individuals.
So, my wishes for you – the joy of travel, an abundance of good friends, fabulous food at every meal (this is a cooking blog after all), the ability to laugh when really all you want to do is cry, and the independence and enjoyment that comes from just being comfortable in your own skin.
And of course, as always, peace, love and happy trails to all.
(Segment 1 already posted – May 3 – 9)(Segment 2 already posted – May 10 – 15)
MAY 16, 2024 – SUMMERHILL FARM RV PARK, CHELAN – site 1
Got up early. Why? Because both of us had been in bed by 9:00 pm. So, up and Adam (as they say) and a breakfast consisting of link sausages, easy over eggs, toast with wild blueberry jam (French, of course), a small easy peel orange each, vanilla yogurt with fresh blueberries, and juice. (We do not go hungry on our trailer adventures.)
Then for me – get the inside of the trailer ready for departure, and for Andy – to do all the hard work outside. But then there is the actual hitch-up. For us, this is a two-person job. And quite frankly, we are pretty darn good at it! So, now we are ready for our next adventure after a sad good-bye to our dear friends Craig and Marsha.
Then up and over Sadis Pass, to Toppenish, and north until we were through Chelan and on to the next three nights at Summerhill Farm RV Park. (Or so we thought!)
If we had known what was in store for us, we would have headed directly for the barn! Holy crap! Never again will I book a camping spot on Union “Valley” Loop Road out of Chelan when to get to the “valley” (if there really is one), you must first climb a 15% grade (or so it seemed) narrow road for 3 miles while your engine is screaming. (And in our case, I mean literally screaming!) And guess who is driving at this point? ME! And I’m telling you true – if I could have beamed myself to any other place in God’s universe, I would have done so with no regrets. Frankly, I was scared shitless! Yes, YOU READ THAT RIGHT! This intrepid woman who took on 3 stepchildren, started a company choir in downtown Seattle, designed a home and acted as the general contractor, and traveled all over the world with no ability to speak even one foreign language was worthless by the time we got to camp. And that’s just some of the adventures I have subjected myself to over the years. But driving up this road, just about did me in. Not to mention that our truck was not sounding well at all. Andy was very concerned. And when Mr. C. is worried, I might as well jump off a cliff!
Then came the ordeal of backing into our assigned site – site number 1. First of all, it was more than a 90-degree backup to get the trailer into position. And to make matters even worse, there was hardly any room in front of the site to allow for easy maneuverability.
Our gravel site
The site across the way from us. Notice the picnic table with the downward slant.
Another look at the site
And Andy is one of the best backer-uppers I have ever met. He should be since he’s been doing it for over 30 years! Whoever designed this layout obviously had never parked a trailer.
Because, in well thought out campgrounds, the sites are angled in such a way that the driver can pull ahead on the main road, then angle back to the left into the site using his or her left side mirror. Because the hookups for electric, water, and sewer are on the left and within sight. (Many campgrounds require backing in from the right. Which is fine if there is ample room, and the driver and spotter can easily communicate.) So, with the help of a partner to assist, it’s usually not that difficult to safely park a trailer, RV, motorcoach, etc.
If I had any doubt about the layout of this place, all I had to do was look at the barren hill and sites across from us. The lowest one especially caught my eye. Narrow, curved, fairly steep pull up tilted to the right. At the top of this drive-through site, complete with a picnic table which wasn’t even level and positioned right next to a drop-off, it was actually flat. But I can’t even imagine being on this barren site on this rocky hillside in mid-summer. The rocks would retain heat like coals on a BBQ. Crazy ridiculous!
After we got almost set up, two other trailers pulled in. And from watching them try to park their trailers, and have the same problems we did, we commiserated. One of the wives told me at this point her husband was absolutely furious. And I get it. So, was I.
So, do you think I was able to get a good night’s sleep. Not bloody likely! I dreamt all night of driving off cliffs. That is, when I could sleep at all! Maybe tomorrow will be better.
MAY 17, 2024 – SUMMERHILL FARM RV PARK
Well, after yesterday’s driving fiasco, I did not sleep well. Of course I didn’t. Sometimes I don’t sleep well when everything is fine and dandy. So, why would I even begin to think I could sleep soundly after yesterday’s death-defying experience.
The original plan for today was to drive to Leavenworth and spend the day with our dear friend Linda. But there was a definite problem with our truck. It was making a noise that was somewhere between a scream and a low whine, and at times kind of a growl. Not a noise you like to hear from your truck’s engine. And it would get louder when you turned the steering wheel.
So, as we were driving down the hill from hell into Chelan, we decided to seek out an auto mechanic to make the truck stop making that awful noise. Well, good luck with that! On a Friday, when the auto shops are already completely booked, you might as well be trying to buy a baby giraffe.
But one shop, Chad’s Quick Auto was very helpful. The owner took the time to come out and listen to the truck and offer his thoughts on what might be the cause of the problem. He felt our truck probably required a power steering flush, new fluid, and possibly even a new pump. Oh, happy day! But the shop was booked solidly for this Friday and would be closed Saturday and Sunday. (Of course, he and his guys need time off too. We got that.)
After calling numerous auto shops from Wenatchee to Winthrop, we were still in Chad’s parking lot. So, Andy went back into the office, and luckily got an appointment for Monday morning at 8:00 am.
We said thank you very much and drove away much relieved that maybe by Monday afternoon, we could be back on schedule. Of course, that meant paying for another expensive night at the campground that I firmly believe caused the problem IN THE FIRST PLACE. Or at the very least, exacerbated a problem already in the making. But sometimes you must just bite the bullet. And take it like an adult. Which has never been one of my top strengths. I’d much rather write a scathing review and see this place sink into the hillside, never again able to alienate another unsuspecting moron who thought she had discovered a fantastic new place to camp near Chelan! Who also just happened to be behind the wheel for the entire arduous uphill ordeal!
After much consideration about should we drive to Leavenworth or just go back to the trailer and wait it out, we decided a trip to Safeway first was in order. Then directly back to the trailer to sit out our time until Monday morning reading, writing, eating, drinking, and generally enjoying each other’s company. Actually, not a bad way to kill time. And of course, there is nothing we can do about the situation. We will make this work! And we will not kill each other in the process!
In retrospect, this could have happened to us far from any campground or reasonable place to be stuck for a couple of days.
So, as Andy was taking about a 4 mile walk up the road and back, I wrote up today’s events, read for a while outside in the sunshine, and then cooked a nice dinner for us. Beef stroganoff and microwaved petite peas.
Then we read for a short time, played two grueling games of Skip-Bo, then an early to bed.
One positive thing I can say about this campground is that it is free from traffic noise. Of course it is! No one in their right mind would drive this road at night! (But I’m still going to write a scathing review!)
MAY 18, 2024 – SUMMERHILL FARM RV PARK (still!)
I am going to call today – STUCK IN CAMP DAY! Because that is absolutely where we are at this point. Our truck is sick, and the doctor won’t be in until Monday. But at least we are in a safe place with electricity, water, and a septic dump. The propane situation is a bit iffy, but if worse comes to worse, we have a 20 lb. tank in the truck that we use for our BBQ and propane fireplace. So, we should be just fine cooking in the trailer and having the furnace on at night.
Despite the fairly warm temperatures during the day, it is still chilly at night. Which is good. Much easier (and quieter) to run the heater rather than having the air-conditioner on all night. (Air conditioners are bloody noisy.)
So, our forced day at this expensive campsite – $80 on weekends and only $75 on weeknights, which is basically a gravel area with very close sites (see pictures) with our big back window aimed at the owner’s lawn and house, and a portable toilet (one hole) with 2 shower stalls, and no laundry facilities, or play area for children, or fire pits, or any of the regular amenities (like paved sites) associated with a high nightly price tag.
As our next-door neighbor was getting ready to depart this morning, he knocked on our open door suggesting that we might want to close that side of the trailer because he was getting ready to dump his black and grey water. And because the utilities for his trailer were so bloody close to our door, he was worried that the smell might be a problem for us. Great neighbor, but lousy design for either privacy or functionality. There is really no room between sites, and even our two camp chairs were a close fit.
As I’m sure you have figured out by now, we were not pleased with this campground.
I haven’t decided how to warn people about the drawbacks of choosing this campground. But being charitable at this point is not an option!
But we made the most of our day. Read a lot, Andy took a nice walk, (see pictures below) and I served us chili dogs for dinner. When the times get tough, there is nothing better than a big old plate of comfort food.
Looking down on the north side of Lake Chelan
Looking north at Summerhill farm
Then lights out to the sound of people playing party music until after 10:00 pm and the dog in either a nearby trailer or neighbor’s yard continuing its all-day and all-night incessant barking. Another couple of reasons I wouldn’t recommend this campground to even someone for whom I had no regard at all!
One more day to go before we can take our truck to see if can be fixed.
MAY 19, 2024 – SUMMERHILL FARM RV PARK (needless to say – unplanned)
More views of our site. In this one, notice Andy reading behind our trailer and right next to the hookup for the next trailer. Absolutely unacceptable!
The restroom and showers.
Really special to be right next to your neighbors hook up. NOT!
A closeup of the picnic table on the site just across from us. BTW, the trees you see are between site 3 and 4 up the hill. Gives you an idea of how bloody close the hilly, barren sites really were.
The lawn behind us was pretty. But a working farm is not a quiet place. Farm workers were forever going to the house in their noisy golf carts, etc. The noise would have been OK, if everything else would have been reasonable. Which unfortunately, it was not!
You can see a couple of the farm vehicles parked by the house. Nice house, but not what I want to spend $80 a night to look at. Grrrrrrrrr
Well, we made it through the night. But again, another day without a lot of excitement was anticipated. But we were wrong.
Andy went for another walk, I wrote up my travel report for the 18th, we had lunch and lo and behold 2 trailers pulled into camp together.
Today’s view of the lake from Andy’s walk
At first, we paid them no real attention. Until the driver of the second trailer got out of his truck to check out the space. Andy recognized the driver first, and then his wife came around the back of the trailer. It was our good friends Dave and Jeri with whom we already had plans while camping at Steamboat Rock. The four of us all kind of looked at each other with that “what are you doing here” face, and then we told them our story.
They too were not pleased with the drive to camp from Chelan. The arduous uphill drive should be THE FIRST THING YOU LEARN ON THE CAMPGROUND WEBSITE! Along with one of the posted rules on a sign near the entrance to the campground that states “no alcohol”. Really! That should also have been disclosed on their website. (We usually obey rules. But sometimes they just scream to be bent. And that is exactly what we did!)
Unfortunately, all the other campgrounds in the area had been booked solidly when I remember feeling overjoyed at finding an opening at this park. Now I know why there was space for us. This is a “fool me once” kind of place.
I later realized that every other campground was full because there was a jazz festival in town over the weekend, which BTW, we would have enjoyed attending. Ya think?
Anyway, at least we now had not one but two other couples with whom we could commiserate. The other couple being Dave and Jeri’s dear friends Doug and Ramona. And of course, Dave and Jeri’s doggo Sophie. And after having happy hour and dinner with these terrific people, we can certainly understand why these four people have been fast friends for decades.
So, our day was saved by the presence of these fun, intelligent people. Sometimes when a door is slammed in your face, another door is opened, allowing friends to walk in.
After a wonderful, shared dinner, we all decided that it might be time to call it a day. And what a fine day it had been! So, a couple of games of Sequence, a bit of a read, and our heads on pillows by 10:00 pm.
MAY 20, 2024 – RIVERBEND RV RESORT, TWISP – site 40
So, at 7:45 am Andy headed down the road from hell to see if the nice folks at Chad’s Quik Auto Clinic could fix our truck. If not, we would have to either stay put, or find some way of moving our trailer to Andy’s sister Katie and husband Rick’s home in Winthrop. Rick had offered to tow our trailer with his truck to their home, but we really did not want to put him to that much trouble. But if worse came to worse, that would be the logical thing to do. And leave our truck at Chad’s until it was once again drivable.
But, at around 12:30 pm, Andy arrived back at camp with a clean and gassed up truck. So, after hitching up, we said good-by to our friends Jeri, Dave, Doug, and Ramona and were once again on the road. And a “we will not be back” to Summerhill Farm!
But what a pleasant ride after we safely made it back down the hill into Chelan. First along the mighty Columbia River on US-97 to Pateros, then left along the Methow River on SH-153, and in Twisp, north on SH-20 towards Winthrop. Our campground being between Twisp and Winthrop.
It was quite a revelation for us to see the Methow Valley in May. Usually when we go to Winthrop, it’s to visit Katie and Rick, and it’s sometime during the summer. And by then it’s hot, the surrounding hills are brown, and the high peaks have lost all their snow. But in May, the valley is glorious to behold. Green and lush everywhere you look.
So, if you wanted to take a long loop drive some sunny day in May, you could go up and over the North Cascades Highway, down through Winthrop and Twist, drive down US-97 (past Chelan), and in Wenatchee turn right and head up SH-20 to Leavenworth and then up and over Stevens Pass. A beautiful way to spend a long day.
Arrived safely in camp to find we had been assigned a lovely spot. Not right on the river, but we could see it from our side windows.
After a bit of lunch, we called Rick and Katie to tell them we had arrived safely. They told us to come on up to their home for drinks and dinner. That had been the plan all along. But with truck trouble, we weren’t sure we would even be able to see them this trip. But it all worked out. Lovely drinks and a marvelous dinner of braised lamb shanks, a cannellini bean and veggie side dish, and green salad with heirloom tomatoes. Yum!
After dinner, we excused ourselves. It had been a long day. But we would be seeing them again the next day for dinner at The Veranda at the Casia Lodge and Ranch.
So, back to our trailer and an early to bed for these 2 weary travelers.
MAY 21, 2024 – RIVERBEND RV RESORT
Right across from our trailer. We couldn’t camp there because at this time of year, the mighty Methow River sometimes escapes it’s assigned path.
Looking downriver
Downriver from our site
Both of us slept really well last night. Do you suppose that was because we were parked in a nice campground and had a truck that was running properly? You bet your sweet bippy THAT WAS THE REASON!
It was really hard on us being stuck in a campground not knowing if our truck was too sick to be fixed in a timely manner. While having to pay an extra exorbitant nightly fee for the most basic campground amenities! Grrrrrr. So, when the owners periodically appeared, I wanted to tell them just what I thought of their campground. And believe me, I would have, except that Andy, who is definitely the better person, would have been mortified by my behavior. So, I shut my mouth and stayed as far away from the owners as possible.
But now, here we were in a lovely setting, complete with laundry facilities, which BTW were sorely needed after 2½ weeks on the road. So, after breakfast it was 3 loads of wash and a trip to Hanks Market in Twisp for provisions. (Great market BTW.)
At about 3:00 pm we headed up to Winthrop to spend the late afternoon with Rick and Katie and then the 4 of us went up to Casia Lodge (outside of Twisp) for dinner. A fine meal, with wonderful people, and then back to our trailer about 9:00 pm. Then a bit of writing and reading and another early to bed for both of us.
I have said this before, but it never ceases to amaze me that I can easily sleep 10 or more hours when I am in our trailer. And I don’t think it’s just from all the fresh air. We get plenty of fresh air on Camano Island. I think it might be the fact that Max, one of our orange kitties, is not pressed up to my body every minute I am in bed. His favorite position being me on my right side with my left arm around him. (I believe that is called “spooning”.) If he could have his way, I would never roll over, get up to go to the bathroom, or even move an inch while I sleep. I have tried explaining to him that this is impossible. But he just looks me in the eye, and flops down as close to me as he can get. Purring all the while. Do I miss him? Yes, I do. But frankly, I sleep a lot better when he’s at home and I’m in the trailer!
And yes, another wonderful day spent on the road even though I am beginning to miss our beloved critters and all the creature comforts only a real home can provide. (I might actually be getting a bit homesick.)
MAY 10, 2024 – CASCADE PEAKS FAMILY CAMPGROUND – site 62
I must say, we were very sorry to leave Fort Flagler. The water, the mountain view, and the sunshine made for a very wonderful camping experience. But as with all good things, it had to come to an end. And in this case, it was once again time to push on to the next campground and hope for the best.
So far, we have been lucky. Both Crescent Beach and Fort Flagler were new to us. And both were great places to camp. La Push we had been to several times before and it was and still is undoubtedly one of our favorite places to park our trailer. But who knew what the future held because our next destination was yet another new facility.
But first we needed to pick our route. And that is always fun. Because both of us enjoy traveling over roads that are new to us or have only been driven a few times. And we like to stay away from major highways.
So, from Flagler we drove back to Chimacum. Then Center Road to Quilcene and US-101. South on 101 down Hood Canal and through Shelton. South of Shelton we turned off onto SR-108 to McCleary where we had lunch at the Bear’s Den, (Great burgers.) Took SH-8 west to Elma where we picked up US-12 up the Chehalis River valley to meet I-5 north of Centralia. We were only on I-5 for 20 miles. Left I-5 and headed East on H-12. From there it was 60 miles to our Camp which is 7 miles east of Randle. Much of the time along the Cowlitz River.
Well, Andy, with all his aptitude for reading maps, came up with a bit longer route than was absolutely necessary, but very scenic and with only 20 miles on I-5.
Before I book sites, I make sure they are not too far apart. I consult Google maps and get the time it takes to go from place to place. What Google can’t include in its analysis is the fact that a) we are hauling a trailer, b) we have to stop for gas, c) we are older and have to pee regularly, d) we need to eat along the way since we normally pull out of camp between 10:00 and 11:00 am, and e) every drive of any distance we are faced with at least 4-5 “road work ahead, reduce speed, stop for flagger, etc. etc.”. So, when Google told me it takes 3½ hours from point a to point b, I should have added at least 2 hours, which is about what it took!
When we arrived at Cascade Peaks Family Campground, the nice older lady in the office at first couldn’t find our reservation. I said I was sure I had made one and she looked again. Sure enough, the reservation had been filled incorrectly. Then the fun began.
When we reached our site as instructed by the lady in the office, we drove into a rather large field, truck first. At which point, Andy had to make a goodly number of turns in this small area to get to a point where he could back the trailer into the site. And then we had to add 3 blocks for the rear tires on the right side of the trailer to reach any semblance of level. But once we got unhooked and the water and electricity flowing into the trailer, we had time to look at our surroundings. And oh my. What a camping spot! Right next to the Cowlitz River and no one close by. Just a little bit of heaven to ourselves.
Since we had arrived after 5 and it had taken us a while to get set up, we were both ready for our safe arrival drinks. I really wasn’t in the mood at that point to fix a fancy meal, so we had tacos. Perfect repast after a long day. But still, another great day on the road.
MAY 11, 2024 – CASCADE PEAKS FAMILY CAMPGROUND
Woke up to a bright sun-shiny day. The best kind of day when you’re camping. Especially in May and you’re in the mountains. Or at least close to three major Washington State giants – Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. Adams.
After breakfast we decided to drive as far as we could towards Mt. Adams before the road was closed because of snow. From camp, we drove back to Randle, turned left over the Cowlitz River and proceeded about 2 miles to where Forest Road (FR)-23 heads to Trout Lake and FR-25 leads to Windy Ridge on Mt. St. Helens.
We decided to first drive towards Windy Ridge which is East of Mt. St. Helens. But after only a couple of miles, the sign told us the road to Windy Ridge was still blocked by snow. So, we turned around and went back to the intersection with FR-25 to try our luck with Mt. Adams.
We turned around at this point
But a lovely drive along the river where the snow had already melted
Well, we did have better luck on this road. And it was a lovely ride along the Cispus River in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. And the Dogwood trees were in bloom. And there were lots of them. As well as wild rhododendrons in full regalia.
We made it 28 miles before there were enough potholes and snow on the unpaved road that we thought it would be better to not continue any farther. (Hard to see potholes when covered with snow. Plus, we knew we would have to turn around at some point. Might as well do it while there was bare earth to back onto.) We basically decided at this point that there would be no more exploring for today. So, back to camp after a quick trip to Packwood for a bit of provisioning.
Then it was outside reading by the river for Mt. C. and inside the trailer writing for me.
Well, you know there is a problem when you stop paying attention to your computer and the floor of your trailer is flooded. Yep, full of water. So, I did what any good wife would do – I yelled for help from my husband.
Our trailer toilet had given us a bit of grief in August of 2023 on our last excursion for the year. The part of the toilet that allows a bit of water into the toilet bowl after flushing kept leaking. But we thought we had solved the problem. Apparently not!
Because obviously after going to the bathroom, the toilet just kept running water into the bowl, out of the bowl, and all over the floor. And had obviously been so engrossed in writing up my May 10th trip report, I hadn’t noticed that my toes were getting wet.
So, after mopping up the water, placing our 3 area rugs out to dry on our picnic table, we tried to fix the problem. Great! Two completely unqualified plumbers trying to make sense out of a schematic that offers no bloody help at all! We tightened fittings, turned off the shore water, and prayed that the damn thing would stop leaking. Well, there is definitely something to be said for prayer, because after a while, the toilet stopped dribbling water. And behaved itself beautifully all night.
(Further on in the trip I realized that the problem wasn’t the toilet alone, but rather the user was also to blame. In my own eagerness to get writing, I had contributed to the flood.)
If you are unfamiliar with trailer toilets, you can push the flush pedal down a bit to allow more water into the bowl if needed. (This doesn’t flush the toilet. That comes later.) But in my haste to get back to my computer, I hadn’t fully flushed the toilet which allowed water to keep flowing. At the time, something seemed a bit wrong, and in retrospect I should have stopped to listen to that little voice that was screaming “something isn’t right here dummy”, but I didn’t. Lesson learned.
And since I know you are wondering, nothing was hurt in the trailer. The only thing that was shattered was my pride. Which, incidentally, happens quite often! And more than ever since I turned 70!)
Now I am just waiting for the fourth shoe to drop. First the stabilizer bar, then the truck battery cable came loose, and now the toilet is being prickly. What next? I don’t even want to think about what that might be. I think I’ll just have a nice martini and forget about the whole messy business. Then go to bed and get up every hour to make sure all is dry. Oh well, tomorrow is another day!
MAY 12, 2024 – CASCADE PEAKS FAMILY CAMPGROUND
The following pictures are all from our drive up to Paradise on Mt. Rainier
Another beautiful day in paradise. (And no water on the floor.) And speaking of paradise, that was our plan for today. A drive to Paradise. (On Mt. Rainier.)
So, after a hearty breakfast, we left the campground at about 10:00 am to see if we could beat the crowd. (On a sunny day like today and it being Mother’s Day to boot, we knew every other family in the Seattle-Tacoma area would be headed to this amazing national park.)
When we got to the park entrance, we were only about the 15th car in line. And with our Senior National Park Pass, we got through in about 4 minutes. (We had our own line.) When we left the park at about 2:30 pm, there was an entrance line up for at least a half mile. Their wait time could easily have been 30 minutes. Or even more.
And having arrived ahead of most of the visitors, we could stop in every parking area. This allowed us to take the pictures you see above.
Even at Paradise, the closest parking lot to the lodge was full, but the other one still had room. We weren’t interested in stopping anyway because all the paths were still covered in snow. And who needs that much humanity when the real reason for coming to this area is for the wildflowers. Which probably wouldn’t even be showing their beautiful heads for at least 2 months! So, we turned around and leisurely took our time driving back through the park.
By the time we got back to Randle it was about 3:00 pm and we were hungry. We stopped for lunch at the Blue “something”, but I wouldn’t advise you to do the same. Just OK food and cowboy music playing a little louder than I would have preferred.
Then back to camp for me to write and Andy to read.
But again, I was reminded that we live in one of the most beautiful parts of the world. And I felt so blessed to experience the natural wonder that is Western Washington once again.
MAY 13, 2024 – PEACH BEACH RV PARK, GOLDENDALE – site 27
Cruise boats we saw while we were camped at Peach Beach. One close up, one in perspective.
Todd, Cindy, and me with before dinner drinks
Craig, Marsha, me, and their wonderful dog Murphy (if he ever goes missing, they might possibly guess where to find him…..)
Having survived another night without any camping calamities, we woke to some cloud cover but no rain. Always so nice not to have to de-camp in the rain. But we were excited to get on the road to stay once again at another of our favorite camping spots – Peach Beach RV Resort (right next to Maryhill State Park) on the mighty Columbia River. So, basically moving from our trailer parked right next to the Cowlitz River to backing right up to the Columbia River. But first we must make the arduous trek over White Pass.
Now, if you have never driven this pass from Packwood (think south of Mt. Rainier) to Naches (think close to Yakima) then you have missed out on one of the most scenic roads between Western and Eastern Washington. The route was first established in 1931 as State Road (SR)-5 in 1931, and the link was completed in August 1951 along the current route, later designated U.S. Route 12. The pass reaches 4500-feet at the summit and the route is between the headwaters of the Clear Fork of the Cowlitz River and the Tieton Basin. The pass was named for Charles W. White, a civil engineer, who discovered the saddle while working for the Northern Pacific Railway Company.
So, all along the way it’s beautiful mountain peaks, mountain streams, and glorious vistas.
After going through Yakima, we turned south at Toppenish (after grocery shopping at Safeway) to go over yet another pass – Sadis Pass. And because we could, we stopped at the St. John’s Monastery and Bakery for a late lunch. (The best gyros you are ever going to taste.) Plus, all kinds of other dishes and pastries. A “must stop” for us.)
Got into camp about 4:00 pm and sat outside reading until our dear friends Craig and Marsha arrived. They too had eaten a late lunch, so after they got set-up, we had appetizers for dinner along with safe-arrival drinks. Then an early to bed for all 4 of us.
Another day in paradise!
MAY 14, 2024 – PEACH BEACH RV PARK
How many trains did I hear last night while I was either trying to get to sleep, up for a night call, wondering what the flickering greenish light was that was in the next campsite, or just unable to get to sleep because I enjoy worrying about things over which I have no control? Well, I’ll tell you how many trains I heard – not enough! Because, although there is a busy train track across the Columbia River from us on the Oregon side, and just behind our campground on the Washington side, there still weren’t enough for me. I simply love the sound of trains in the night. The reason being that my dad loved trains. Our entire attic in the house where I grew up was a train set up. So, therefore, I too love trains.
And BTW, the green flickering light was where the cord attached from the camp electric post to the all-electric camper van that snuck into camp after we were already in bed. But even through our closed blinds I could see this shining green beacon. Weird, to say the least.
After a shower for me, breakfast for us both, and a leisurely morning, it was time for an adventure. So, the first stop for Craig, Marsha, Andy, and me was Maryhill’s Stonehenge.
Andy, Craig, and Marsha about to enter the inner sanctum.
View down the mighty Columbia River. Note Mt. Hood off in the distance.
According to maryhillmuseum.org., “Maryhill’s Stonehenge was erected as the nation’s first WWI memorial and dedicated in 1918 to the servicemen of Klickitat County, Washington, who died in the service of their country during the Great War, Hill’s Stonehenge Memorial is a monument to heroism and peace.
Hill erroneously believed that the original Stonehenge was constructed as a place of human sacrifice. Concluding there was a parallel between the loss of life in WWI and the sacrifices at ancient Stonehenge, he set out to build a replica on the cliffs of the Columbia as a reminder of those sacrifices and the “incredible folly” of the war.
Guided by leading authorities on archaeology, astronomy, and engineering, Hill combined their knowledge to duplicate, as nearly as possible, the original size and design of the ancient Neolithic ruin in England.
The original idea was to use local stone, however, when the rock proved unsatisfactory, Hill decided to use reinforced concrete. (The rough, hand-hewn looking texture was created by lining the wooden forms with crumpled tin.) Stonehenge Memorial was completed in 1929.”
After visiting this replica (both Marsha and I have visited the real Stonehenge), it was off to the Maryhill Museum of Art.
Some pictures of exhibits at the museum
Andy and I had explored this museum several times before, so it was like visiting an old friend. And since it was such a perfect day weather-wise, the view of Mt. Hood and the surrounding countryside made for even greater enjoyment.
Then back to our trailers for a bite of lunch, a possible nap, and preparation for “company for dinner”.
You know when all is right with the world when you have 2 sets of dear friends in camp with you. Craig and Marsha here at Peach Beach. And technically, Todd and Cindy were not in the same camp, but right next door at Maryhill State Park.
So, dinner for the 6 of us at the picnic table between our trailer and Marsha and Craig’s trailer.
Appetizers and drinks first, then 2 kinds of pasta, steamed Broccoli, and a chewy French baguette. Yum!
So, as you can imagine, much laughter, too much food, and possibly a bit too much adult beverage. But sitting in comfy camp chairs right next to a river with friends is my idea of the perfect way to spend an evening.
Then off to our own trailers and beds for 6 sleepy seniors.
MAY 15, 2024 – PEACH BEACH RV PARK
Although we had gotten to bed at a decent time (9:30ish), we still slept until 8:30 the next morning. I don’t know why it is, but when camping we can easily sleep for 10 hours, whereas at home that almost never happens. (I think it’s all the fresh air. Although we don’t exactly have stale air at home. But somehow, it’s different when it’s not the regular air you breathe at home. Or at least that is my conjecture!)
After a hearty breakfast, the 4 of us (Craig, Marsha, Andy, and I) decided to go on an adventure.
With the help of our trusty Benchmark Maps Washington Atlas, we decided to visit the Conboy Lake National Wildlife Refuge. So, up US-97 to Goldendale, and then head west on SH-142 towards our destination. As we were driving along Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams were always prominent features. Then we started to descend into a deep gorge formed by the Klickitat River. Absolutely gorgeous. (I now suspect that the word “gorgeous” must have been derived from natural wonders just like this one.) And wonder of wonders, the road was paved and in excellent condition. We saw a vulture, deer, a wild turkey, 4 deer who couldn’t decide which way to leave the road, and assorted squirrels, cows, and other farm animals. At one point, Andy described our drive as the “most scenic route in Washington that no one knows about”.
But as we were driving along, we could see a dark area at the base of Mt. Adams. As we got close, we realized it was smoke.
Finally, we reached the wildlife refuge. We drove all around it to finally see the sign that read, at the blocked entrance, “Prescribed Burn. Do not report!” So, all this way to take a 2 mile walk in this high meadow marsh to see birds and flowers, to only find a planned burn in progress. Oh well.
Our stop along the way to figure out “where in the hell is the entrance to the reserve”?
The drive itself was worth the time and effort. At this point we took a country road to the Trout Lake highway and down into White Salmon and onto SH-14 on the Washington side of the Columbia River.
And as planned, we stopped at the Jacob Williams Winery close to the Columbia Hills State Park where we shared a charcuterie board and did some wine tasting. Then back to camp for naps, reading, and me to write up this trip report.
At 6:00 pm we left camp to join Todd, Cindy, Craig, and Marsha for dinner in Rufus, Oregon at Bob’s Texas T-bone Steakhouse. Well, we had mixed feelings about our dinner. My sirloin steak was fine, Marsha’s smoked chicken was fine, Andy’s ribs were fatty, Todd had some kind of steak, and declared it fine. Cindy also had sirloin and was happy with her choice. Craig had a T-bone, but it was mostly fat and gristle. He said the flavor was OK, but who wants a chewing exercise at dinner?
Then back to camp, and beddy-bye. At least for us. The other 2 couples may have partied all night for as much as I would have noticed. Sometimes a rock and I have a lot in common!
Once again, we took our lives into our own hands and headed away from the safety and sanity of our home into the unknown wilderness. But unlike most of our other trailer trips, this year we stayed exclusively in the great state of Washington. And what an adventure we had.
You know, getting old isn’t easy. And the older we get, the less flexible (in ever so many ways) we become. So, whereas 30 years ago we would have just gone with the punches, now it’s (at least for me) OMG, we are going to die! What happened to that brave girl who shed unforeseen difficulties like water off a duck’s back? Where did she go? And who is this new person with the doomsday mentality? I’m telling you the truth; I much prefer the younger me. And I’d bet good money that Mr. C. does too. But we are what we are and there is no getting around that simple fact of life.
But we made it home safely with lots of great memories and some fun tales and pictures to share with you.
I’m dividing our trip into 4 segments. Makes it easier for me, and I know there is only so much of me you can stand at any one time!
So, there will be:
SEGMENT 1 – MAY 3-9, 2024
SEGMENT 2 – MAY 10-15, 2024
SEGMENT 3 – MAY 16-21, 2024
SEGMENT 4 – MAY 22-30, 2024
I hope you enjoy my trip reports. I love writing about our adventures. And I know many of you are travelers, either by pulling a trailer or seeing our beautiful land by car. And if I can help with a bit of insight about places you too might like to visit, then I have fulfilled my goal.
And as always, peace and love to all.
MAY 3, 2024 – CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK, PORT ANGELES – site 23
Well, even waking up early doesn’t always mean an early start. At about the same time, around 6:15 am, we both jumped out of bed rearing to get going. (OK, we don’t jump any longer, but you know what I mean!) Showers a pair, breakfast, and all the last-minute items packed in the truck. And away we go to hook up the trailer.
As we are driving along, I jokingly mention the hitch. Oh God, Andy says, “I knew there was something I forgot”. So, he drops me off at the trailer so I can store the last of our things (toiletries, pills, pillows, Aeropress, etc.) and basically get the cabin ready for takeoff. (OK, not takeoff, but just about!) So, muttering something under his breath, Andy drives back to the house to attach the one item we must always bring along when we head out on a trailer adventure. Almost everything else can be purchased along the way. But to hitch up a trailer, you must have a hitch!
Anyway, after returning to the trailer he remembered that to keep the hitch steady when traveling over bumpy roads or suddenly breaking, he needed to also attach the hitch vice. (To the hitch itself.) However, his socket set was still in our garage. So, second trip back to the house to retrieve the socket set. Good thing our trailer storage site is only 5 minutes from home!
At this point, we are still ahead of schedule, but thinking maybe we are getting a bit old for this game. Because I could have noticed that there was no hitch on the truck too. I was there. Oh well, we still left Camano Island at 11:00 am. Our first destination – the Edmonds-Kingston ferry. But in Stanwood we had to stop because one of the stabilizing bars was dragging. (First time ever!) Anyway, Andy showed that stabilizer bar who was boss, and away we went in less than 5 minutes.
I figured with our luck; we would have to wait at least 2 hours in line. It being Friday and all. But we only had to wait 15 minutes before we were safely parked in the bowels of the MV Suquamish. Then off the vessel and on to lunch in Kingston at Los Tres Compadres. Then, on to Crescent Beach and RV Park, site 42.
After checking in, I found that site 42 was not quite what I expected. So, after talking with one of the people who worked at the park, we were able to change to site 23 which was much more to our liking.
Having survived the early part of the day without flipping out or just packing it in, and since it was after 5:00 pm, we decided a safe arrival drink was called for. So, a martini for me and a Manhattan for Mr. C. were much appreciated.
After having a big lunch, we decided that a simple appetizer dinner was all that was required. Followed by a bit of reading and an early bedtime. So, 9:00 pm found both of our heads happily resting on our pillows which fortunately we did not leave at home!
MAY 4, 2024 – CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK
Great burl in the tree right next to our trailer
Andy woke up early and went for a walk at Salt Creek Recreation Area. (It’s right next door to our campground.) This area is considered Washington’s premiere shore diving destination because it apparently offers a breathtaking underwater park replete with sea urchins, anemones, sea cucumbers, and wolf eels.
For those of us who stay above water, there is wonderful tide pooling populated by a myriad of critters in their rocky pools at low tide. There are also plenty of coves and rocks to explore if you are a kayaker. Marine mammals are also abundant in this area. Salt Creek Rec Area is also on the Whale Trail, so it’s possible to see whale spouts from the cliffs. A perfect spot just to enjoy the beach, stroll, or find that perfect spot out of the wind to soak up the sun in a sheltered cove. Camping and RV sites are also available.
I got up around 8:00 am and started prepping for breakfast. Just as I was ready to sit down and read until he returned to the trailer, he walked in the door. Prefect timing. After a hearty breakfast, we decided to take a drive out to Neah Bay.
We had been to Neah Bay last a few years ago when we were camping at the Quileute Oceanside Resort in La Push. But I really wanted to see the area again. But for those of you who have not ventured along the coast past Port Angeles, you need to know there is no such thing as a straight road along the way. It’s up and down, twists and turns, 2 lanes (kinda sorta), paved most of the way, but gravel occasionally where slides have played havoc with the road surface and railing. And there have been lots of slides over the years. Lots! Actually, it was quite a bumpy ride.
So, it is not a quick ride. But scenic? You bet! And worth the drive? Absolutely.
So, state highway (SH)-112 from our campground to Neah Bay. Had a great lunch at the Warmhouse Restaurant, then decided it was time to head back. But with a bit of a different route. (Not that there are a lot of ways back to Crescent Beach. There are only two.) But at least part of the way was a new road for us. And we always like finding a new road to drive.
So, SH-112 to SH-113. Then at the end of 113, left onto US highway 101. Then just past Lake Crescent, a left onto East Beach Road, right on Joyce-Piedmont Road and finally onto Crescent Beach Road which brough us right back to our site.
After that, it was writing for me and another walk for Andy.
Then dinner, reading, and another early to bed.
An absolutely great way to spend our first full day away from home.
May 5, 2024 –CRESCENT BEACH AND RV PARK
After a great night’s sleep for both of us, Mr. C. went for a short beach walk while I started breakfast. Just as I finished frying up the bacon, he magically appeared. (The man has perfect timing.) After a leisurely breakfast, we decided to go into Port Angeles for a small bit of provisioning.
I always leave home with the basics (ground beef, ground lamb, flank steak, bacon, chicken, link sausages, dinner sausages, along with some type of homemade pasta sauce, soup or chili, cookies, and breakfast bread in the freezer. But depending on when and how I want to serve these items, I leave some purchases for when need dictates.
And for this evening’s meal I decided to serve ground lamb patties. And everyone knows you can’t enjoy the full on “ground lamb patty” experience without a side of tzatziki. Duh! Thus, the need for a cucumber and some plain yogurt. That and some hummus and cooked red skin potatoes liberally doctored with butter and sour cream, and you have an easy and delicious trailer meal.
And for those of you who have gone out in your trailer or motor home for a month will attest, you simply can’t bring every food item with you. Plus, it’s fun to go shopping when you’re camping if only to break up the monotony of fabulous natural wonders and quiet solitude that you often find when trapped in a beautiful setting. But enough about food. (You would think I was posting this trip report on a food blog!)
Anyway, after we left the Safeway in Port Angeles, we decided to take a side trip up the Elwha/Olympic Hot Springs Road. As with many spontaneous outings, we were thwarted by lack of knowledge. The road is now closed after 2 miles. Apparently when the upriver dam (Glines Canyon) was blasted away (completing the largest dam removal project in US history, BTW) the river decided to run free, including washing out the road. After parking the truck, we decided to get out and take pictures of the mighty Elwha River in all its glorious free flow.
Then back in the truck and back to camp for a bit of lunch.
After lunch Andy decided to drive up to Lake Crescent to take a short hike up to Marymere Falls. The falls are accessed by a 0.9 mile, well-maintained, dirt trail through an old-growth lowland forest consisting of fir, cedar, hemlock, alder trees and 2 wooden bridges.
I decided to stay in camp and whip up this report and help Harry Bosch solve another mysterious murder. Don’t know Detective Hieronymus “Harry” Bosch – look him up!
After dinner, a couple rounds of SkipBo, reading, and an early to bed. Another wonderful day in paradise.
MAY 6, 2024 – QUILEUTE OCEANSIDE RESORT, LA PUSH – site 11
The view out our back window
The sea stacks just offshore
The perfect spot
Well, once again we lucked out. No rain while hitching up. Now, that might not seem like a big thing to those of you who have never folded a tent or hitched up a trailer in the rain. If not, let me be the first to inform you that it’s really nice to leave camp in dry clothes. And yes, we can always go back into the hitched trailer and change into dry clothes. But if you’re tent camping, changing clothes in the confines of the front seat of your vehicle, is truly no fun at all. So, in either instance, it’s much more pleasant when changing clothes is not required. (Sometimes it’s the little things that go right that can cause the most joy. Or so it seems to me.) Anyway, we got off at 11:06 am without a hitch. Oh wait, let me rephrase that. We did have a hitch, but we got off without any problem. (The same word with its various meanings can be just so much fun! That’s the main reason I so love to write!) Anyway, by 11:06 am we were on the road again headed for the Quileute Oceanside Resort. One of our favorite places to park our trailer. But first, our road (US-101) would take us around Lake Crescent.
Now, if you have never driven this stretch of road, you are in for a surprise. There are very few settings as beautiful as this lake with its surrounding landscape. And because the lake and mountains are part of Olympic National Park, there are very few dwellings on the lake. Which makes the lake even more scenic.
When we reached Forks, we stopped for a couple of grocery items before heading West to La Push.
After lunch, Mr. C. went for a short walk on the beach while I put items together for the charcuterie board I planned to serve before our dinner with friends.
One of the main reasons we come to this camp so often is because it is close to the Quillayute River Resort which our dear friends Chip and Linda own and operate. (A fantastic get-away BTW.) Along with our close friends Jim and Margo, it’s like a family reunion.
So, while Chip was prepping for the pizzas (they have a real Italian pizza oven at the resort), Margo and I set up the charcuterie board, Linda baked homemade gougères, while Jim and Andy mixed M & M’s (Martinis and Manhattans).
The pizza oven
Chip the pizza master
Linda supervising the whole project
One of six perfect pizzas
After that we sat down to eat 6 different kinds of pizza, Linda’s grilled broccoli salad, and maple cream pie for dessert. OMG. I demanded the recipe from Linda after just one bite. The pie was just that delicious. So, in the future, I will pass the recipe on to you.
After a lovely evening spent with these amazing people, it was time to head for camp. After parking the truck, Mr. C. decided it needed to be closer to the trailer at which point the trouble began. The truck wouldn’t start again. No power. Andy couldn’t even lock the doors.
We had been having electrical trouble with the truck off and on for some time. But it had been running fine recently. And it had just started at our friend’s resort, just 15 minutes before.
So, Andy did what any intelligent person would do. He called an expert. And Jim, just happens to fit that description. Jim owned a very successful auto repair shop on Queen Ann Hill in Seattle for decades. So, the man knows car and truck engines.
Jim thought it was probably either the battery or possibly the alternator. He said he would come take a look in the morning. Which he did. And he was spot on. One of the wires from the engine to the battery had come loose. He tightened the fitting and the truck leaped into action.
Sometimes our guardian angels do indeed look after us. This could have happened in the middle of nowhere and with both of us possessing absolutely no mechanical aptitude, we would have been stuck. Sure, we have AAA, but often the areas we visit have no cell service. Considering everything, we were very, very lucky it happened when it did!
MAY 7, 2024 – QUILEUTE OCEANSIDE RESORT
Well, as you might expect, I didn’t sleep really well last night. I envisioned the whole next day spent finding someone to fix the problem with our truck.
We had even gone so far as to make an appointment at an electrical repair place in nearby Forks, if we could get the truck started with jumper cables.
As I explained in my May 6th post, the problem was solved withing minutes. And we were back to our regularly scheduled program. Which for today was nothing more than spending the evening again with our dear friends Jim, Margo, Chip, and Linda. Which meant that until 5:00 pm our entire day was open to get into whatever trouble we could find.
So, Andy went for a nice walk to Second Beach, while I wrote for a while, read for a while, and generally was completely lazy.
Where normally I would be accompanying Andy on some of his less strenuous adventures, this trip is different. It seems my arthritis is acting up again and my left leg is taking a beating. So, always being content with my own company and wanting Andy to enjoy the outdoors as much as possible, I sent him on his way.
But before I go any further, a bit about Second Beach. Source – The Outdoor Society.
The trail starts at a small parking lot, and quickly crosses a small wooden bridge, before heading into the woods. As you walk along, the forest gets more interesting. Giant trees sprout multiple spires, turning views of forests into wooded cathedrals. Every direction you look, branches and roots are grasping everything, large stumps intertwined with the life-force of its neighbors. Many hurry down the 0.7 mile trail to reach the beach. But don’t miss the beauty the walk itself has to offer.
As the ocean draws closer, the roar of the crashing waves increases. From here, the trail starts losing elevation fast, a series of supported switchbacks leading down to the forest wall before the beach officially starts. Even if you peek, the true beauty of Second Beach won’t be visible until you stand on the giant driftwood lining the beach. It is here, once the trail meets the driftwood, that Second Beach’s beauty is shown in full force.
To the south, endless sea stacks appear in the breaking waves, inviting you to walk down the coast until you hit Teahwhit Head. This immense wall of sea stacks and jagged, eroding land separates Second Beach from Third Beach, helping make this stretch of beach cut off from hikers on Third Beach. To the north, the beach quickly heads toward a rocky outcropping that is as stunning as anything on the Pacific Coast. Over time, the crashing waves found a weakness in the ridge, slowly chipping away until it created a bus-sized hole right near the crashing waves.
So, basically, 2nd beach offers something for everyone. A great place to visit.
At 5:00 pm, with more charcuterie board items for the appetizer course, we headed off for dinner with our friends. Another great meal (kale, sausage, veggie, and cannellini bean soup, warm homemade bread, and more of Linda’s Maple Cream Pie. Then hugs all around and back to our trailer for a great night’s sleep.
As I was drifting off to sleep, I wondered what life would be like without good friends. Luckily, I have never had to attain that knowledge firsthand. As I have said many times before, I am well and truly blessed.
MAY 8, 2024 – FORT FLAGLER STATE PARK, NORDLAND – site 50
The view from our site
Patti next to the trailer reading. What a novel experience for her. (Sorry, couldn’t resist!)
I am always sad to leave La Push. The setting is so beautiful, and we so love spending time with Chip and Linda at their fabulous resort. But it was time to push on to our next campsite at Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island. So, back around Lake Crescent, through Port Angeles, around Sequim, towards Chimacum (South of Pt. Townsend), over the bridge to Naval Magazine Indian Island (commonly called “Indian Island”), and along the fenced off road (read why below), and then over another bridge onto Marrowstone Island. Destination Fort Flagler and campsite 50.
A bit about Naval Magazine Indian Island
Naval Magazine Indian Island is a controlled access installation. Access is limited to authorized military personnel and Department of Defense civilian employees. The installation is home to a deep-water ammunition pier and a conventional ordnance storage site. Indian Island provides munitions support to the Navy and Joint and Allied vessels. The whole island except for the Marrowstone Island access road is therefore off limits to the likes of us. Their loss I figure! Humph! Our loss too, because the entire 2,700-acre island hosts a wealth of cultural and natural resources, including several Native American archeological sites, historical pioneer homestead sites, and WWII-era buildings. The island is also home to a wide diversity of wildlife species, including 10 established bald eagle nesting sites, several hundred deer, coyotes, otters, and an occasional cougar.
A bit about Fort Flagler
Fort Flagler was a Coast Artillery fort that along with Fort Warden and Fort Casey once guarded Admiralty Inlet, the nautical entrance to Puget Sound as part of a “Triangle of Fire” defensive plan. Admiralty Inlet was considered so strategic to the defense of Puget Sound that the three forts were placed at the entrance with huge guns creating a “triangle of fire.” This military strategy was built on the theory that the three fortresses would thwart any invasion attempt by sea.
Fort Flagler was established in 1897 and activated in 1899, then closed in 1953 and was subsequently purchased as a state park in 1955. But back to the present.
Since we had never stayed at Fort Flagler, we weren’t quite sure what to expect. But for anyone who loves a view of Port Townsend Bay and the Olympic Mountains, this is the place to stay.
Our site was out in the open, with the trailer’s large back window providing a million-dollar view. And it was nice out. The sun was shining and for the first time on this trip, we could take our books outside to read without putting on every piece of clothing we owned. And I must tell you, it felt just wonderful to sit outside in such a quiet and peaceful park. People were flying kites. Others were simply taking strolls around the camping loop we’re on. Others had their leashed dogs out and about smelling every bush, tree, log, etc. that the length of their leash would allow. In other words, the area was filled with happy campers and daytime visitors. Many here because of the minus 3 tides that allowed them to pick up some interesting edibles at around 7:00 in the morning. So, after setting up camp and taking it easy most of the day, we headed into Port Townsend for dinner.
When we were camping with our dear friends Craig and Marsha last year, we ate dinner one night at the Silver Water Café in Port Townsend. I really wanted to go back to that restaurant because the food they serve is excellent. So, that’s just what we did. And the food lived up to my memory. Wonderful.
Then back to camp to read for a bit before, for me at least, an early to bed. There is just something about camping that makes me want to get extra sleep. It’s like I am either catching up from our busy lives back home, or I am storing up energy for when we get back and our busy lives resume. Whichever, I don’t fight it. I go to bed when the urge hits.
MAY 9, 2024 – FORT FLAGLER STATE PARK
Woke up this morning to bright sunshine and very little breeze. In other words, a perfect day. The mountains were out in all their glory and the bay was calm. It could not have been more ideal.
Andy read outside while I showered, then the usual thing that happens every day happened again this morning. We had breakfast. After that I went outside with my book and read until it was time to go for a short exploratory drive around Fort Flagler. Since this had been a military installation, there were many indications of how important this military instillation had been in its day. Old cement gun bunkers, a fine light house, and beautiful officer’s quarters that were currently available for overnight guests.
On the way out to the lighthouse
But the one thing that struck me as a total waste of the taxpayer’s money, were the empty barracks that we believe must have been dwellings for single servicemen. OK, I get that this is no longer an active military base. But couldn’t these empty barracks be made useful as say, temporary shelters for homeless folks? No, they wouldn’t be fancy housing, but they would provide a roof over someone’s head, a warm bed to sleep in, and bathrooms. And there must have been a mess hall somewhere close by. So, food could be made available too. Then I woke up to reality.
Fort Flagler is too far away from anywhere to help those who are trying to get back on their feet. Job opportunities would be few and far between, and barracks would be no place for a family. And those who simply wanted a free ride for whatever reason – drug or alcohol addiction, mental health issues, etc. would be too far away from any of the agencies that provide the services they might need. But it still made me sad to see these once fine facilities apparently left to molder away.
After returning to camp, Mr. C. decided to take a hike. So, off he went to Mt. Zion.
2 pictures of signs near Chimacum (home of Betty MacDonald who wrote The Egg and I)
I stayed in camp to stare at the water and mountains, write up this report, help my protagonist solve a crime, and generally enjoy my own company.
I have learned over the years that my alone time is a blessing. Not that I would ever wish Mr. C. to just go away for a while. That has never happened. Because he understands that when he is at a rehearsal or performance that I can’t attend or sits at the piano for any length of time, I can happily entertain myself. That I don’t need him to prop me up or be a constant reminder that I am not alone. And I feel the same way. There are many days when I spend hours researching recipes, developing new recipes, and posting recipes on this site. I know he doesn’t feel neglected when I am in my own little world. I may physically be at home, but my mind is far away. So, being alone or together we are never apart.
When he returned from his hike, I made dinner. After dinner we played a rousing game of Bendomino, then off to an early rendezvous with our pillows. Another lovely day in paradise.
PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 5 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 3, and 4.
So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Sunday, October 8, 2023 –Villa Rigas, Pefkohori (4th day)
Well, we are now on the last leg of our trip. All our clothes are dirty. I have eaten enough Greek food to last me the rest of my life. And if I never have to bang my head while getting in the passenger side of an Audi, that will be just fine with me! I believe I have truly had enough vacation. But we are still here, and I plan to make the most of it.
Now, please don’t get me wrong. I have thoroughly enjoyed this country. The people are wonderful. Most of the traditional Greek dishes are fine if you like food that is mostly on the bland side. Our accommodations have all been between OK and fantastic. With none so awful as to make us want to find another place. And being in this area of the world has given me an even greater appreciation for my terrific life. No place is as wonderful as our home and the view we take for granted daily. Sure, the water is warmer here than in Port Susan Bay. A hell of a lot warmer to be exact! But I’m no more eager to go swimming here than I am at home.
But above all, I miss our friends, our two orange kitties, Andy playing the piano, live music, my kitchen with every convenience known to a cook, and my pillow. I know that might sound strange, the pillow part. Because what constitutes a pillow here can be anything from a bag full of foam that flattens to a pancake, or a pillowcase containing 2½ average sized pillows. And of course, the pillows are never the same from place to place. So, just as you get used to one, it’s time to trundle on down the road.
But today is another day. The sun is shining. There is a lovely breeze. We enjoyed a nice breakfast. This morning’s laundry that I washed in our bathroom sink is drying on the rack provided for just that purpose on our private deck. Andy has made and drunk his second cappuccino. And we are currently munching on mixed nuts. So, am I ready to go home? Yes, I am. But first, a bit more Greece.
Since I don’t think we will ever make it back to this ancient country, while I am still here, I plan to make the most of it. Because I realize the problem is not the country. The reality is that I’m getting older, and traveling is not as easy for me as even 10 years ago. So, for the remaining days we have in Greece, I am going to put on my “way-back” shoes, and travel like I am still young and eager for whatever adventure presents itself.
Part of the reason I wanted to visit Greece in the first place, was because this part of the world is widely referred to as the Cradle of Western civilization. And the Birthplace of Democracy largely due to the impact of its cultural and political achievements during the 5th and 4th centuries BC on the rest of the then-known European continent. I wanted to feel grounded again like I did in Turkey. To feel, once more, that I was a citizen of the world, not just a citizen of the United States.
It has been very hard for me to witness the changes happening recently to our democratic country. And as much as I would like to blame it all on certain politicians, past and present, it’s not all their fault. Too many Americans with only their own agendas in mind. Who seem to care nothing about anything or anyone but themselves. And not enough people, me included, willing to make sacrifices on behalf of others. I could easily volunteer at the Stanwood food bank, but I don’t. I could help at our local elementary school, but I don’t. I throw money at various charities, but that’s the easy way out. What I’m saying is that I could do more to help others. I think visiting the place where great minds examined their surroundings and decided things needed to change for the better may have influenced me to strive a bit harder towards becoming a better me. I will never be a scholar or a leader that changes the world. Of course, I won’t. But if I can make even one person’s life better, then the great Greek philosophers Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle can take part of the credit. Having placed my feet on stones that they might have stepped on is heady stuff. Hopefully I can take some of their hopes for a better world back with me. At least, I’m sure going to work harder to that end. But enough philosophizing Patti. Back to your trip report.
After deciding we were a bit hungry at 2:00 in the afternoon, we went to our local supermarket and bought another loaf of bread, some salami, cheese, mayo, and a tomato and I made us small, open-face sandwiches. Just enough sustenance to get us by until dinner.
We were advised by the owners of our apartment to eat dinner at a wonderful fish restaurant right in our own little town. I’ll let you know later how that turns out. But for now, I’m going out on our lovely and shaded balcony to start a new book. Meanwhile Andy has taken his Kindle down to the beach to park his butt up close and personal to the Aegean Sea.
Notice the distinct color difference in the water. The lighter color reflects the shallow and gentle slope away from the beach. The darker color reveals where the underwater land drops off.
When it was time for dinner, we headed into Pefkohori. With handwritten directions from our host, “the General”, and a neighbor, we blithely took on the challenge of finding this fine dining establishment on the water. Well, as with all towns in Greece, except when you are on quote unquote main roads, you are basically driving up or down very narrow roads. And of course, once we got off the main road through town, we were once again on donkey paths with every other “road” being one way. And because there are graffiti artists here too, some of the directional signs were obscured by paint. Not a great deal of help to us hapless tourists. So, down towards the water didn’t work the first time. While trying to find a way to turn around and start over, we got into the upper part of town. Again, a warren of shrinking streets (and I use the term “streets” loosely} until Andy found a place to pull over and seek the assistance of Google Maps. (A God send BTW! Well, at least most of the time!) Then down through the labyrinth to the main road. Then follow the little blue dot to our destination.
Of course, we made a wrong turn that led us to Google Maps alternate route. Which just happened to be the town folk’s favorite area to walk or stroll in the evening. So, now we find ourselves driving on this cement path that is basically used at night for la passeggiata. At least that’s what walking or strolling in the evening is called in Italy. Of course, there were a few other cars parked along the way. But I truly felt like an ugly American forcing stroller pushing families, arm and arm old couples, young children playing with balls, etc. to the side so that we could drive and park right by the restaurant.
The lovely fish restaurant where we had dinner.Picture of us taken by our waiter.
If only I could have explained that we were sorry for any inconvenience we had caused them, but unfortunately, we were currently completely clueless as to where we were and what we were doing. And darned right lucky to be where we were with both the car, both of us, and the pedestrians unscathed. With the hope that the same could be said when we got back to our apartment. But no one would have understood or cared.
People simply aren’t as prickly here as in America. They don’t have the same feelings about their territory versus everyone’s turf. None of the beaches seem to be privatized. There are people walking, sunbathing, swimming, and snorkeling at all times of day on the beach in front of the villa apartment where we are staying. Of course, most of the fancy homes, apartment buildings, villas, hotels, etc. are gated. So, there must be some concern about unwanted people on their private property. But the beaches are open to everyone.
After a wonderful seafood dinner, it was back to our apartment. After a short while reading, it was deemed appropriate to scurry off to bed. So, that’s just what we did.
Monday, October 9, 2023
Woke to a few clouds in the sky. Had breakfast, did dishes, wrote for a while, Andy went for a walk on the beach, and then it was time for another adventure. Our last one in this area. So, at about 1:30 pm we left our apartment and headed up to Mountain Holomantas. And the first thing we noticed was that fall was starting to show itself at higher elevations. And this ride took us through one of the most beautiful parts of Greece we had seen so far.
The mountain range held incredible beauty with breathtaking views in all directions.Imposing trees grew high up on the slopes, with oaks on the lower reaches, and chestnut, pine, fir, and beech higher up. The thing that was most interesting was that there appeared to be no old growth timber. All the trunks had narrow circumferences and were of uniform size. Of course, this is a managed forest, so all these trees may have been planted at the same time. There was also little to no undergrowth. And here and there, great piles of cut wood. And apparently in ancient times, this area was well known for the quality of its timber, much prized by shipbuilders.
Also, from what we learned about this area, there are many species of wild animals and birds in these mountains. We unfortunately didn’t witness any animals while we were driving around. But the area is reported to be the home to amazing fauna. Pretty nice flora too. The highest peak being 3800 feet.
And as we had previously experienced several times while driving around Greece, some roads were closed with little to no warning or explanation. Just blocked off. So, we were forced to find a way around the roadblocks. Which of course led to more adventures.
One such closure took us right through the narrow alleys of the small hill town of Arena. But eventually we found what looked like a main road. So, we eagerly followed it to wherever it led if it wasn’t through another maze! So, once again we escaped with our lives and our car intact. Our nerves, not so much. But they could easily be repaired with a good stiff drink!
Along the way we stopped for an early dinner, then back to Pefkohori and our cozy apartment. Another fine day in Greece.
My thought on the way down out of the mountain was most enlightening. At home I wanted to, and do, live close to salt water and look up into the mountains. If I lived in Greece, I would want to live up on Mountain Holomantas and look down at the sea.
Tuesday, October 10, 2023 – Alexakis Hotel & Spa, Loutra Ypatis
Took our time getting ready this morning because we didn’t have to check out and be on the road until 10:30 am. So, leisurely breakfast, followed by loading the car, paying our bill, and saying goodbye and thank-you to “the General”. It truly had been a quiet and slow-down 5 days. After the hectic past 3½ weeks, we really needed to relax and kick back before the last frantic 3 days of our trip. The drama of me trying to get everything we brought plus what we purchased in Greece in our suitcases. Finding the car rental place so we could give them back their car so they could in turn foist it off on the next unsuspecting moron. Then hire a cab to drive us to our last night’s accommodation. Then reserve a cab for the next morning to take us to the airport by 7:30 am. Etc., etc. None of these things are fun. But necessary. But today’s drive from Pefkohori to Loutra Ypatras was splendid and made the whole day worthwhile.
Beautiful scenery the entire 400 k (about 250 miles) to our 2nd to the last night in Greece. Great roads, incredibly up-close views of Mt. Olympus, and always the sea never far away. (Would have taken pictures, but with my point and click camera, there is no way to capture an entire mountain range in one snapshot.)
Interesting fact: Where we are used to giving a range of mountains a name and then singling out and naming individual peaks, “Mt. Olympus” is an entire mountain range with 52 peaks and many deep gorges.
But soon we were checking in to our hotel.
While waiting for our turn to check in, I heard the concierge ask the 2 ladies who had arrived just before us where they were from. America and the state of Washington. I must have gasped a bit, because the next thing I knew, they had both turned around as I explained that we too were from Washington state. Then one of their husbands came in carrying luggage and I explained that we lived on Camano Island. Turns out the gentleman had lived on Camano until he was three years old. Small world. The couple now live in Gig Harber and the single woman in Tacoma. We were practically neighbors! We talked for a bit and wished each other safe travels, then up to our room to sit on our balcony for a while and take in the late afternoon air and enjoy the view of the Oiti’s Mountains.
Then off to the nearby taverna for dinner. Carbonara for me and fried squid and French fries for Andy. Both were delicious. And then early to bed for us both. We needed to be on the road by 8:00 am in order to turn in our car by 10:30. And where we had to turn in our car was close to the airport, but not easily accessible.
Wednesday, October 11, 2023 – Nathaniel Athens Airport, Spata
Well, this turned out to be a “live & learn” kind of day. When we arrived at our hotel the day before, we were told that breakfast would start at 8:00 am. I told the very nice lady behind the desk that we would be leaving before breakfast. She then informed us that we could come early to breakfast. OK, so this morning we arrived at 7:30, and there were already 2 parties at tables. So, 8:00 am for breakfast is an arbitrary number, kind of like speed limits on the freeways at home? Apparently so. Which in this case worked to our benefit. Because we were due to turn in our car at the car rental place 216 k away.
Anyway, after a nice breakfast we were on the road by 7:55 am. Good roads and wonderful scenery. In fact, we drove along the base of Mr. Olympus with the sea just on the other side of the tollway for quite some time. So, nothing could have been nicer than that for our last real travel day in Greece. So, as they say, smooth sailing until we merged onto the road that would lead us to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport. Here we came to a complete stop.
Then 2 lanes to get our car to the toll booth with several available pay stations. Then a mass exodus from the toll booths back into 2 lanes. And I am here to tell you, politeness was not on display this morning for these drivers. Obviously, they wanted to get to the airport as badly as we did. But eventually we followed the other driver’s lead by bullying our way through the 8 lanes of hostile drivers all wanting to merge into two lanes. But we made it through with our lives and car intact and were once again heading toward the airport.
Unlike every other airport where we have rented a car, there was absolutely no signage for rental cars. Either hiring one or returning one. I saw one sign for long-term parking, but for those of us trying to return a rental car, well, basically we were – – – – out-of-luck. But we did find the airport arrival and departure area, which at this point did us no good at all! So, Andy pulled over, did a Google map search, got us somehow turned around, and headed in the right direction.
Then we had to pass the office on the main road, turn left when it was possible, turn around, and get on the frontage one lane road that led us ultimately to our destination. God, what a hassle! But we were met by the car rental guy, who took one look at the car, and wrote “CAR OK” on our receipt. I thought about telling him that “CARR OK” was not apt in this situation. But why confuse the poor guy since he had been so kind as to not look at the car too closely and order us a taxi. When the taxi arrived, we headed to Nathaniel Athens Airport. Which BTW, was the name given to our next over-night stay.
When I was making all the bookings for this trip, I searched under “hotels close to the Athens airport”. Booking.com came up with this listing which sounded good at the time. Wrong! But, in my defense, judging from the name Nathaniel Athens Airport, I assumed (and you know the definition of “assume” as well as I do) that it would be adjacent to the airport the same way hotels are close to the Sea-Tac Airport. Wrong! We were close, but not THAT close! I should have paid a great deal more attention when the description was for an apartment. And an apartment in a nearby town. Not right at the airport. With no bloody restaurants close by. And no one to let us in to our apartment until 1:00 pm at the earliest.
So, here we are at our “apartment” at 11:20 am, with all our luggage and no place to even park our butts. But it could have been worse. It could have been raining or we could have been left to wait in an area with no shade. But luckily, it wasn’t raining, and we had the covered parking for the building to keep us from sunburn. And yes, I had spoken with whomever answered the phone at the phone number listed on my reservation confirmation. But as she ever so nicely put it – right on the confirmation it plainly states that someone will be available to let you in to the apartment between 1:00 pm and 11:00 pm. So, once again I was reminded that I need pay greater attention to details when booking anything involved with travel.
Finally, the cleaning lady for the previous occupants finished. So, she gave us the keys to both the front door to the building and the apartment. What she failed to provide us with was which of the many apartments was ours. So, I got back on the phone again, and finally was given the exact location of our room. And into a lovely apartment we entered. Spacious, clean, modern, with two bedrooms and a very nice balcony.
But by now it’s after 2:00 pm and we are hungry. And nary a restaurant nearby. But someone, probably another unsuspecting tourist, had left several menus in the apartment from delivery eating establishments in the area. Most only in Greek, so no help there. But there was one with some English on it. Goody’s, the McDonalds of Greece.
So, after not finding a phone number on their brochure, we went online on our computer to order. After 45 minutes and several unsuccessful attempts to order online, we gave up. But persistent Andy figured out how to order using his cell phone. (Hunger will do that to a person.) (And kicking and screaming, we had been forced to learn how to use Goody’s phone application from the simple realization that it was either figure it out or starve!)
So, 30 minutes later we had a crispy chicken sandwich (OK), a regular chicken sandwich (OK), onion rings (ghastly), and a chicken Caesar salad for dinner in our fridge.
Well, let me be the first to advise you to never order a Caesar salad from Goody’s. And McDonalds, please be assured that Goody’s will never be a worthy competitor.
Then it was for me to pack as much as I could tonight, read until about 10:00, and to bed for both of us looking forward to sweet dreams about sleeping in our own bed, with our own pillows, and our kitties by our sides.
Of course, the going to bed part didn’t go as well as it could have. The top sheet on our bed wasn’t even wide enough to cover the width of the bed. Much less with any material left over to drape over the sides. Or tuck in the bottom for that matter. So, we took the top sheet from the bed in the second bedroom and tried, rather unsuccessfully I might add, to produce a make-shift top sheet for our bed. I know it seems inconceivable that sheets etc. should be a problem, but it wasn’t our first adventure with inadequate bedding in Greece, but it was certainly our last!
October 12, 2023 – Athens Greece to Camano Island, Washington USA
Well, after a night of not sleeping well for either of us because of bedding concerns and a couple of mosquitoes hovering over us all night long, plus anxiety (at least for me) about 1) will the alarm on Andy’s phone really go off, 2) can I do the last minute packing and get all our stuff in our suitcases, 3) will the taxi we hired the day before actually be at our apartment at 7:15 am as planned, 4) will everything go smoothly at check-in at the Athens airport, 5) will we make our connecting flight in Istanbul without having to run from one gate to the next and missing the plane anyway, etc. etc., we survived.
From all of this I have come to realize that the one thing that bothers me most about getting older, besides looking more and more like my mother when I catch sight of myself in a mirror, is the anxiety I feel about things that 20 years ago wouldn’t have bothered me in the least! Fast cars coming around us from other lanes drives me wacko. I almost panic on scary roads that never would have bothered me even a few years ago. I worry when Andy is on the roads late at night without me. That sort of thing. Really, what’s that all about?! Because today was fine. Everything went smoothly. No problems at any level. Even after collecting our car from the long-term car lot at Sea-Tac at 6:30 pm, the freeways were busy, but there were no terrible slowdowns. So, why did I have to go through the worry trauma when I couldn’t have done anything about any of the above concerns in the first place? If it’s just me, then knock it off Patti! If it’s a normal aging “thing”, then darn, that’s not fair. Aging is hard enough without unnecessary worry problems. Oh well, it is what it is. And I am who I am.
And very glad to be back home with the realization that we were so lucky to have been able to take one more overseas adventure. And were still alive to tell the tale. And that we had arrived safely back home, eager to see our friends, been welcomed home by our kitties, and ready to get back to our wonderful lives.
I won’t bore you with the details of our travel from Athens to Seattle except to tell you that we took off from Athen’s airport at roughly 11:00 am on the 12th and landed at Sea-Tac at 5:30 pm on the 12th. How could we have traveled 6,161 miles in such a short time? (Of course, it didn’t feel like a short time. Actually, it felt interminable. But isn’t that always the joy of air travel and just part of the deal? Yes, of course it is!)
And for the first time since we moved to Camano Island, I was able to see our wonderful paradise from the air. I was on the right side of the 787 with a window seat. As we were making our descent, we were over the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the Central Cascades Region. I had no idea there were so many lakes. And such a wide breadth of mountains and valleys. What a breathtaking view from our plane. Then to my delight, Mr. Baker and Glacier Peak came into view. We’re home!!! And because we were landing from the north, I had a great view of Camano and Whidby and all points west, south, and north.
It never ceases to amaze me how much water surrounds our dry land. Of course, we know it’s there. But to see it from above really brings the whole landscape into perspective. And I couldn’t help thinking what a marvelous introduction to the Pacific NW for first time visitors to our fair land. They must have thought they had reached nirvana. Which of course, they had!
So, what did I take away from our visit to Greece:
The land is beautiful. And the ancient sites are worth every penny of the trip. The sea shore seems to be everywhere. In fact, Greece has the longest coastline on the Mediterranean Basin and the 11th longest coastline in the world at 8,498 miles in length, featuring many islands, of which 227 are inhabited. All this, and Greece is 1.3 times smaller than the state of Washington.
The people are friendly, helpful, appear very happy, and proud of their country.
Even though Greece experienced a horrific economic crisis in 2007-2008, they appear to be on the mend and doing well now.
The food was not nearly as good as I thought it would be. Very limited menu and quite tasteless. But far cheaper than anywhere in America. And huge portions.
Never rent a car with a manual transmission in a land that is 70-80% mountainous!
Expect high humidity and bugs if you travel during the summer, September, or October.
If you don’t like dogs and/or cats – don’t go to Greece. They are everywhere.
The highways, freeways, and toll roads are fabulous. Well signed and with very few cars and trucks. And great public services along the way. We could not have run out of gas or gone without a toilet (all clean BTW) had we tried.
Side “roads” (or so they are called) in villages, towns, cities, etc. are narrow, not well signed, and originally designed for 4 legged critters. They are scary, ruthless, potholed, brick, stone, uneven pavement car, truck, and pedestrian hating necessities. If I never have to even be a passenger on one of these nerve-wracking roads again, it will be just fine with me. And for those of you who know me, you know I love to drive. I still enjoy and feel comfortable driving our car and truck even when we are towing our trailer. But I did not take the wheel once while we were in Greece. Even though we had paid extra money for me, being over 75, to help with the driving. There was simply no way I was going to get anywhere near the driver’s seat! Just too much for me at this time of my life.
And finally, I am so glad we went to Greece. If you ever get the chance, do not hesitate. Even with all the inconveniences and trepidations I experienced, I am so glad we went. We saw so many incredible things. Placed our feet on the same stones and paths that the ancients traveled. Slept in century old dwellings that had been modernized so they were fit for today’s visitors. Learned how hard the people of Greece have worked to pull themselves out of poverty. And how gracious they are towards visitors. Forever we will have wonderful (and sometimes less than pleasant) memories to talk about and laugh about as we continue into our golden years.
And again, with this trip, I was reminded that people everywhere are the same. That the average person, regardless of their ethnicity, the color of their skin, their religious persuasion, etc. simply wants a good life for themselves, their children, their relatives, their neighbors, etc. And to be allowed to live a peaceful, productive, and fulfilled life.
I firmly believe that no person should ever think of themselves as merely a citizen of a particular country. But rather, we should all consider ourselves and live our lives as stewards of planet earth. And appreciate and value each other for the diversity that makes every living person special and worthy of respect.
And yes, I know, life is never going to be that simple. There are just too many crazies for whom money and power are not only desirable, but addictive. Who live their entire lives showing no concern for how their actions can and usually do adversely impact everyone around them.
But I still have hope for a brighter future. Which as I learned from our visit to Greece, had been the dream of people far smarter than I am for generations. And just how lucky I had been to visit the place where they too envisioned a better future for everyone.
So, thank you for coming along with us on our latest adventure. May each of you live the life you desire, full of whatever brings you peace and love. Happy trails!
PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 4 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 3, and 5.
So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Sunday, October 1, 2023 – Theatro Hotel Odysseon, Kalambaka (second day)
We woke early even though we had set Andy’s phone alarm for 7:00 am. We had told the hotel concierge that we wanted breakfast at 8:00 because our tour bus would be picking us up at 9:00 am for our visit to the Meteora monasteries. All went as planned and soon we were in our small 28 passenger van heading up into the rocks. BTW, the Meteora rocks begins directly behind our hotel. But first we had to stop at a couple hotels to pick up other riders.
Our tour guide was a young man named Dimitrious. His command of the English language was impressive. Also, he had a great sense of humor. To the point where a few of us were internally groaning at some of his comments. But it was all fun and the facts he spoke about this area were very informative.
The Holy Monastery of Saint Nicholas of Anapafsas or Agios Nikolaos is the first active Monastery we encountered.
The monastery was founded at the end of the 14th century. For the name Anapafsas there are numerous interpretations, two of which are the most popular. The first one is that the name Anapafsas was attributed to one of the monastery’s benefactors, while the second explanation has to do with the monastery’s position.
Agios Nikolaos Monastery was the first monastery on the way to the other monasteries and probably served the pilgrims as a resting place before continuing onward and upward. Resting translates into Greek anapafsis, so Agios Nikolaos of Anapafsas literally translates into Saint Nicholas the one who rests you.
Well, there was no rest for all but two of our group at this first stop. Our guide told us there were many steps (about 140) up to this monastery, so another lady about my age from Mexico and I decided we would let our husbands enjoy the site and take the pictures of this first monastery. So, while we enjoyed talking to each other on a shaded bench, both our husbands made the climb and lived to tell the tale.
On our way up to St. Nicholas
Part way up to the monastery on foot.
Looking up at the monastery.
Getting closer. Almost there.
Looking across the valley.
Looking down on the parking lot.
Then it was back in the van and toward our next destination. But along the way we stopped to take pictures. I was having trouble getting my new camera to work properly (user error), so many of the sights I thought I was capturing were not recorded properly. So, we decided that the next day we would drive up into the Meteora in our rental car and this time get it right! But all the pictures from both days are included in this day’s post. So, some general pictures of the area.
Two happy people along the way enjoying the view. Notice the skirt on the lady. In order to visit a monastery, women must wear long skirts and have their shoulders and heads covered.No sleeveless shirts for men or shorts either. So, not total discrimination towards women. Just required respect shown for these sacred dwellings and their inhabitants. Made total sense to us.
Close up of the happy travelers. And why not? This is one of the most glorious spots in the world. And to be able to see this wonderland firsthand, makes us exceedingly lucky. We are well and truly blessed.
Mr. C. taking pictures too.Looking down through the rocks to the city of Kalambaka.
On our way we got a good look at Holy Trinity Monastery which is not open to the public.
Holy Trinity from another angle.
Holy Trinity from afar.
The second monastery, The Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron is the largest and oldest of the original 20 monasteries built on the top of these amazing rock formations. It was named the monastery which remains “suspended in the air” because of the cliff formation on top of which it was built. The Great Meteoro Monastery or “Megalo Meteoron” was founded in the 14th century by Saint Athanasios the Meteorite. The monastery would normally have been open to the public even though it was Sunday, but apparently it would not only be closed today, but also tomorrow for a religious holiday. So, the 300 steps up and 300 steps back that I might possibly have considered, I don’t have to feel guilty about not completing. But we got a good view of the monastery from the parking area, and it was still amazing to see this colossal monastery perched on its rock.
Looks like the monastery is on flat ground from this position. Right? Nope.
Four monasteries in this picture. Bottom left corner – Rousanou. Just above Rousanou on the left bottom – Saint Nicholas. Top middle – Great Meteoron. And last but not least, far right – Varlaam.
Varluum on the left, Great Meteoron on the right.
Great Meteoron from below.
Closer view.
Another view.From anotherangle.
Varlaam, the third monastery we visited on our guided tour was accessible to me. Yes, there were plenty of stairs (around 140 again), but somehow, I managed to climb and descend the stairs with only a tiny bit of assistance (balance issues) from Andy. And what a wonderful and exciting vista from every window and balcony in the entire monastery. And more tourists than we had encountered so far anywhere in Greece. Herds of foreigners, all being drawn to the history and beauty of this amazing place.
Notice the stairs with people climbing their way to this amazing highway to heaven.Closer view.The lift that bringssupplies to this monastery.At the top in the monastery. From the bridge to this rock. Andyes, it was a long way down.
For the fourth and final monastery of our tour, we descended a very long trail of wooden stairs and a dried mud path to the Holy Monastery of Rousanou. This monastery probably received its name from the first hermit-monk who settled on the rock in around the fourteenth century. The monastery is one single building occupying the entire available surface of the cliff. It creates the impression that the building was carved out from the cliff as the extension of the rock itself!
It was built on three main levels in the 16th century, in what is believed to be an effort to increase the available space inside. The main cathedral was founded at the end of the 16th century and was decorated thirty years later by a monk who was a very skillful artist and lived at the monastery.
Compared to other rocks where monasteries were built, Rousanou has a lower elevation, which makes it more accessible. The monastery suffered severe damage during World War II. In 1988 it became a convent and today more than 15 sister nuns live in this small and cozy nunnery.
From inside the monastery looking down on the road.
This is a very small monastery and very hard to photograph because of its location. But it was interesting to visit.
By the time we had visited the Meteora and all its marvelous sights and sites, I was ready to head for the barn. But ever so proud of myself for having actually managed to walk to and from 2 of the 3 monasteries we were able to visit without having an aid car involved. In fact, this whole trip has changed my attitude about my aging body. I am actually physically capable of doing a lot more than I had expected. Of course, some things are still not possible. But the old gal can still enjoy many of the offerings this amazing country has to offer. And I am taking advantage of every minute of feeling younger and more able than anticipated.
But I still don’t like the food as much as I thought I would. But you can’t have everything. Even the trips we took to Italy where the dishes were universally wonderful, I yearned for variety. I think we American cooks don’t give ourselves enough credit. We cook from the cuisine of many countries. And while we are at it, we blend spices, and change and adapt flavors that never get changed in their countries of origin. So, hurray to all of us who cook and create memories and traditions using the bones of favorite recipes from our own and other cultures and make these dishes our own. (And often, much better than the original if I may be so bold as to say so!)
And of course, just after I wrote the sentences about food above, we headed off to dinner. And this time, the food and ambiance at the taverna were wonderful. Plus, there was live music. A guitar playing singer and another older gentleman on the bouzouki. To our uneducated ears, the music sounded how one would expect traditional Greek music to sound. And the gentlemen certainly appeared old enough to have been playing these same tunes for 50-60 years. Plus, if there was any enthusiasm in playing this music, it certainly was not on display for the public. Taciturn might be the right term for these 2 old guys. The guitar player did smile once after an unusually enthusiastic applause. But other than that, another good word for these musicians would be dour. Nevertheless, it was nice to hear live music in a lively outdoor setting. And the Carbonaro we shared was fabulous!
Then we went back to our room to plan our next day’s adventure.
Monday, October 2, 2023
After a good night’s sleep, we had breakfast again at 8:00 am so we could beat the rush up into the Meteora to do some selective picture taking. It felt like fall this morning so we each grabbed a sweater. Then we proceeded up into the land of rocks and monasteries.
Although the monasteries had just been built this morning, geologically speaking, the rocks that support the monasteries were believed to have been formed some 60 million years ago. At that time, the area was submerged under a shallow sea, and layers of sediment, including sand, silt, and clay accumulated over time. These sediments eventually solidified into sedimentary rocks, with sandstone being the dominant rock type in this region. And to this day, these rocks are incredible to witness, both from right under foot and viewed from further afield.
After taking our pictures of the rocks and monasteries as close as we could get without paying more entrance fees, we headed across the valley of the Pinios River (yes, the river that overflowed from Storm Daniel on September 7, 2023) and up into the Pindus Mountains. (If you care to look for Meteora on a map of Greece, it is located near the town of Kalambaka at the northwestern edge of the Plain of Thessaly near the Pinios river and the Pindus Mountains.)
And what a lovely ride it was. A little difficult to map out the route because several of the roads and bridges were closed because of the flood. But we made our way into the mountains and through several peaceful little villages.
In the little village where we had a snack, there was a natural spring with 3 spigots. While we enjoyed our refreshment, we witnessed many people stopping for a drink or to fill their water containers. This little church was close to the natural spring. I assume it was built close to the spring so that people could pray after drinking the water. Who knows what kind of critters were in that water so, a bit of celestial help might be of assistance at this point. So, no, I did not drink the water. Are you kidding?
Then we turned around and decided to drive for a while through the plains along the Pinios River. But driving next to and just above the river was sad to witness. Rushing water had played havoc with hillsides, orchards, corn fields, and basically anything that got in its way. At one point in a lower dip in the road, we turned around because heavy construction vehicles were busy restoring the roadbed. Apparently, a small creek had become a major river during the storm. And oh, what a mess it made. And the riverbed of the Pinios River itself had obviously broadened during the flood. And along its banks where normally water didn’t flow, trees and vegetation had been stripped. And many of the roads we travelled on still held piles of rocks and other detritus.
Some pictures from the area.
One of the bridges that was still open.
Notice the small amount ofwater that usually flows in this river.
View across the river to the town of Kalambaka and Meteora.One of the bridges closed by the flood.Beautiful little side stream. Was it there before the flood? Who knows! More beautiful rocks on our way back to Kalambaka.
But now it was time to retrace part of our route and try and find a way back across the river.
Since we were in a rural farming area, where I’m sure many tourists would not bother exploring, there were no signs that indicated which roads or bridges would be closed ahead. Being local farmers, it was assumed we would already know which routes were unavailable.
But we had plenty of gas, time, and a burning desire to see everything there was to see, so, unphased we made it back to Kalambaka unscathed. Then pizza for a late lunch and back to our room for me to write and Andy to go down to the lovely, shaded area underneath our balcony to finish his current book.
I told him he might come back to the room, and I would be in a prone position. And that is indeed how I planned for him to find me! So, adieu for now.
Well, 5 minutes after I lay down, he walked through the door. Like they say, timing is everything. So, while the sun was already over the yardarm by an hour, we decided to go down to the bar and have a before dinner drink. And low and behold, they had Tanqueray gin. No vermouth of course, so for the first time on our trip I enjoyed gin over rocks. Which of course I enjoyed immensely. (Thanks, Mark, for the inspiration to simply order Tanqueray on the rocks.) (With a twist would have been nice. But who knows what kind of “twist” it would have been. Better safe than sorry!)
After sipping our drinks at a very leisurely pace, we decided it was time to go to dinner. So, back to the same taverna for moussaka.
Now, I basically have never liked moussaka. But, deciding that it is probably one of the foremost dishes associated with Greek food, I decided I really should eat it at least once while we were here. And once again, I was reminded that some dishes should be allowed to evolve into something a bit different and at the same time a whole lot better! OK, there was a potato and eggplant layer. So far, so good. But the ground meat layer tasted weird to me, and the bechamel sauce was, let’s see, how should I put this – ghastly. Basically, flour paste with no flavor whatsoever. Andy being the great guy that he is, let me off the hook. I ate the salad that came with the moussaka, while he finished off the main dish.
Then it was back to our room for a bit of reading before lights out. While we were out, the maid had changed our top sheet and light blanket for a full-on thick comforter in its own sheet like covering. And no option to go back to sheet and light blanket. Why, you might ask. Well, it had been fairly cool that morning and I guess the hotel felt we might freeze overnight. So, in order to get any sleep at all under this thick comforter, we were forced to turn on the air-conditioner. Sometimes, I truly cannot understand the workings of other people’s minds. Of course, I can’t. I can’t even figure out my own mind most of the time!
Tuesday, October 3, 2023 – Helen’s Little Castle, Thessaloniki
After a quiet and lovely breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to our hotel nestled right up against the rock formation called Meteora. I will miss eating breakfast with the rocks within view. But it was time to push on to our next destination.
When booking a vacation where you can’t see the location beforehand, it makes every new accommodation a surprise. The only thing I am sure of at this point is that I must have booked our apartment in Thessaloniki under the influence of a larger than usual martini. Because, as we were trying to find our “castle” driving up and down streets so narrow that a cow would have had trouble not touching the walls of the buildings on both sides, I vowed never ever again to be responsible for the mess I got us into today. But before I go any further with our present situation, I want to tell you about our drive here. It was lovely.
Through valleys, up hillsides, down again, and through farm country. A great view of the whole of Mount Olympus and even signs along the road warning us of bear crossings. When was the last time you saw a warning sign with a bear on it? (Andy thinks it’s a hoax. And I think he might just be right!) There was even one sign that I saw that warned of wild horses crossing the roads. And the roads in question were major 130k maximum roads. Imagine hitting a bear or a horse at 130k (a little over 80 mph). But luckily, there were not many cars on the road, and no bears, deer, horses, wild boars, or cows were in evidence, so driving was easy. Until of course, we hit Thessaloniki.
The metropolis of Thessaloniki has a population of over a million and is the largest city in the northern part of Greece. It is actually the second most populated city in all of Greece. Athens being the largest, at a colossal 4 million inhabitants in the greater Athens area. The Port of Thessaloniki is also one of the largest seaports in the Eastern Mediterranean. It is considered the gateway Port to the Balkans and Southeast Europe.
And according to Helen’s son, when we mentioned how difficult it had been to drive the roads, find the castle, and find parking, he informed us of three facts about living in this huge metropolis and especially where we were in the oldest and original part of the city. Too many people, too many cars, and too narrow roads. (As if we hadn’t figured this out for ourselves!) What he failed to mention was that cars shouldn’t be allowed in this area at all. Only donkeys! However, it was nice to hear that my take on the situation was spot on. But once again on this trip, I was almost in tears before my feet once again touched terra firma. (I’m almost sure the car rental folks will notice that the passenger side floor is indented from my trying to apply non-existent brakes on my side. But I’ll deal with that problem when the time comes.) (For now, I just want to live to tell the tale.) Because some of the twists and turns finding our hotel were so narrow and crazy, that they required Andy to back up, go a bit forward and turn, back again, etc. until he could proceed. And all of this in the area of the city within the remaining Byzantine walls that I had especially wanted to see. Well, we saw the walls all right. Absolutely too close and personal for my liking. And because we were still looking for our hotel, there was no time or place to pull over and take a picture. So, you will have to take my word for the fact that walls from centuries ago still remained in this ancient part of town.
The main construction phases of the wall were undertaken during the 3rd, 4th, and 5th century AD, while the parts that have been better preserved belong to the Byzantine period, particularly the time of Emperor Theodosius (4th century AD). Overall, of the 8,000m of Byzantine walls about 4,300m remain today. The walls were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list because of their outstanding Byzantine architecture. (One of the reasons I was so eager to see the walls.)
What I had failed to consider while I was blissfully planning where to stay in this town is that if the walls had been built to protect the city as late as the 5th century AD, the roads in and out obviously came into existence at roughly the same time! What was I thinking? So, this entire driving to our new digs’ fiasco was my fault! So, as God is my witness, I AM NEVER BOOKING ANOTHER DRIVING TRIP THROUGH A HILLY OLD-WORLD COUNTRY. IF THE COUNTRY HAS HILLS, I’M BOOKING A TOUR! NO MORE RENTING A CAR. ESPECIALLY WITH A MANUAL TRANSMITION! I CAN’T STAND THE PRESSURE. GIVE ME A BUS WITH A DRIVER AND I WILL GO ANYWHERE. BUT NEVER WILL I PUT US THROUGH THIS KIND OF TORTURE AGAIN. And yes, you are right, Holland would be OK. The highest points in that flat country are the road overpasses. The country is basically under sea level. And yes, I called the country Holland not the Netherlands, because the two couples we met from the Netherlands, referred to their country as Holland. So, who am I to correct the natives!
Speaking of meeting people on this trip, we have truly enjoyed several wonderful conversations with people from all over the world. But I must say, it is very embarrassing for me when someone for whom English is their second or possibly fifth language has a better command of my native language than I do. When they are finding the right word and having to explain the word to me, I feel darn right stupid! But I just nod my head as if I knew all along what they were talking about and go on from there.
And FYI, there is one thing that every couple we have met agrees to and is concerned about. In every case, it is universally felt that the entire world is going to hell in a hand basket. It’s not just our country that is a mess. It is seemingly worldwide. So, before this trip I was concerned about being classified as one of those ugly Americans. But no one has in any way made us feel bad or embarrassed about the political turmoil we as a nation are experiencing. Apparently, political upheaval is happening everywhere. And with most of the Greek people we have encountered, they are at first a bit reticent. But by the time we have conversed a bit, they seem to realize that we are pretty much OK people. In fact, one waiter told us he was not used to people being as nice to him as we were.
Well, as I am writing this afternoon, we are firmly ensconced in our newly refurbished apartment. Andy is out on our balcony reading and after demanding half of our 1 remaining can of Alpha beer, my nerves have settled down, and my heart rate is back to normal. But I have already declared that the next time I go anywhere in our car, it will be the day after tomorrow, and we will be on our way out of this place!
If all goes as planned, we will be picked up at the bottom of the rock path we are on, that the good people of this town refer to as a street, by some kind of conveyance that will take us from Thessaloniki to Mt. Athos and our Ammouliani cruise. I sincerely have my doubts that they will find us in this maze, but a girl can dream.
In the meantime, before dinner, I am going to lose myself in my book. Perhaps with my thoughts directed elsewhere, I will stop beating myself up for booking us into a small 3 room apartment in the middle of the second largest city in this country. And in an area where cars shouldn’t be permitted and only donkeys should be allowed to traverse the rock paths!
And should you wonder – Andy is doing just fine. Through all the turmoil of finding our room, he remained cool as a cucumber while his crazy wife went almost catatonic. Again! The man deserves a metal.
Then down the hill to dinner at the restaurant Stafylos. Caeser salad and fried zucchini for me and lamb souvlaki for Andy. Then we went back to our room to get an early to bed because the next morning we had to be at the bottom of our street at 6:30 am.
Wednesday, October 4, 2023
Up at 5:45 am so that we could be ready by 6:30 for today’s excursion. So, breakfast, as it was, was pretty darn simple. Instant coffee, a slice of processed cheese, a slice of pressed ham, and a roll each that we had snagged from our dinner the night before. But it filled our tummies, so what more could we ask?
Anyway, the nice young man who would be taking us from Thessaloniki to Mt. Athos and our Ammouliani cruise, was on time and only about a block from where we thought he would find us. But at 6:40 in the morning, it wasn’t very hard for him to spot us, and us to spot a van going backwards in an alley close by. So, having ascertained that he wasn’t someone out to murder us or hold us hostage, and we weren’t waiting in the street to accost people driving vans, we jumped in and were on our way to pick up the next adventurers. Who, lucky for us, turned out to be a delightful middle-aged couple (Michael and Laura) from St. Louis. And, where normally there would be 4 more passengers in this small van, we had plenty of room to spread out and no one had to sit on the driver’s lap. Always a good thing. So, off we went.
It took us about 90 minutes to get to our destination. But the time went fast as the four of us got to know one another. The poor driver tried to inform us of significant sights along the way, but we were simply too busy talking to each other for him to get a word in edgewise. But the land we passed through was lovely. Mainly farmland with agricultural evidence everywhere to be seen. Olive tree groves, fields of planted whatever, large wheat silos, plowed fields, etc. And often off in the distance, window sized views of the sea.
Our destination was the charming little port village of Panagias. Where we boarded a sailing vessel that we were told could accommodate 150 passengers. (And no there were no sails to be seen. We were under power the whole time.)
Since October is considered off season in Greece, we were lucky to be able to take this cruise at all. Apparently, this was the last week the cruise was being offered until next spring. So, there were far less people than in high season, which made it very nice for us.
Our cruise on the Singitic Gulf of the Aegean Sea took us to the base of Mt. Athos, the second highest mountain in Greece. Along the way we were accompanied by a school of dolphins jumping through the wake from our boat. Fantastic!
Mt. Athos is at the end of a large peninsula. And only men are permitted to enter the Mount Athos area, conveniently excluding half the population. For a thousand years no woman has been able to visit Mount Athos or the monasteries except from a distance. That distance means only to be seen by boat. And then no closer than 500 meters from shore.
An Orthodox spiritual center since 1054, Mount Athos has enjoyed an autonomous status since Byzantine times. The ‘Holy Mountain’, which is forbidden to women and children, is also a recognized artistic site. The layout of the monasteries (about 20 of which are presently inhabited by some 1,400 monks) had an influence as far afield as Russia, and its school of painting influenced the history of Orthodox art. Cloaked by beautiful chestnut and other types of Mediterranean forest, the steep slopes of Mount Athos are punctuated by these twenty imposing monasteries and their subsidiary establishments. Covering an area of roughly 110 square miles, the property includes the entire narrow rocky strip of the easternmost of the three peninsulas of Chalcidice which jut into the Aegean Sea.
Farming constitutes an important part of the monks’ everyday life. The landscape reflects traditional monastic farming practices, which maintain populations of plant species that have now become rare in the region.
The transformation of an entire mountain into a sacred place makes Mount Athos a unique artistic creation combining the natural beauty of the site with the expanded forms of architectural creation. Moreover, the monasteries of Athos are a veritable conservatory of masterpieces ranging from wall paintings (such as the works by Manuel Panselinos at Protaton Church ca. 1290 and by Frangos Catellanos at the Great Lavra in 1560) to portable icons, gold objects, embroideries, and illuminated manuscripts which each monastery jealously preserves.
Even seen from afar, the monasteries along the coast are massive. And whereas the monasteries in Meteora were beautiful, from afar these structures looked more like fortifications. Which they probably were originally. And of course, without a woman’s touch, well you catch my drift.
Another tidbit we learned. Not only are women not allowed, but the monks also prohibit female animals such as cows and chickens from entering Mount Athos. The only living females allowed on Mount Athos are cats. The cats are needed to catch mice and rats. And the reason for no female of any species being allowed was handed out in a 1406 document: so that the monks may be pure in all respects and “may not defile their eyes with the sight of anything female.” (My take on this whole female cat exception is perhaps the first recorded example of the “rules apply to all, except to us” syndrome. Where exceptions to any rule can be made if it makes life easier for yourself or your buddies. Or of course, as is all too frequent in today’s political world, there is financial gain to be made) Grrrr. To my mind, you can’t have it both ways boys. Either no females, or all females allowed. And we wonder why humans haven’t evolved into a better, kinder, and smarter species! No doubt in my mind!
Those funny ripples on the left side of the picture are dolphins following our boat and playing in the wake.
The last 3 pictures are of monasteries alongthe shore. (From a proper distance of course!)
Anyway, the cruise took us as close to Mt. Athos as we could get. Then dropped us off on the island of Ammouliani, the region (like our states) of Macedonia’s only inhabited island in the Aegean. We were on the island for a couple of hours. First to have lunch provided by the tour, and then to lounge in the shade or take a dip in the sea. We chose to park ourselves in chase lounges and Andy to take a short nap and me to wake him up when he started to snore.
Our sailing vessel.
1The beach we visited from our boat. Another view.
Then back on the boat for the 90-minute ride back to Panagias. Then back in the van and back into the teaming city of Thessaloniki and our humble abode.
Both of us were exhausted. Too much sun. To the point that going out for dinner was not appealing in the least. So, we stayed in our room, ate dry ham and cheese sandwiches, and read until we could no longer keep our eyes open. For tomorrow we were on to the last leg of our holiday. Five days in an apartment right on the water to rest and relax before it was back to the Athens airport, with a couple of 1 night stops in between, and our final destination – our wonderful home on Camano Island.
Thursday, October 5, 2023 – Villa Rigas, Pefkohori
Slept like the dead. We were both wiped out from our busy tour day. So, getting a good night’s sleep was exactly what was needed. And it worked. We woke up ready to tackle driving out of Thessaloniki and our tortuous 90-minute drive to Pefkohori.
And no, it wasn’t at all tortuous. Good road and fairly flat.
We stopped in the small beachy tourist town of Kalliphen for lunch, where I had a burger and fries. Real ketchup for my fries and all the rest of the condiments (except pickles) any good old American gal could wish for. Of course, the meat patty was half pork, half beef, but the bun had sesame seeds on it and had been toasted. (You rarely see that anymore in America, which is too bad.) Anyway, the burger was great. Andy had a great meatball gyro. Also, very good. Then we toddled down the road to find Villa Rigas. No problem. GPS got us there and a nice young woman met us at the gate. Along with the requisite number of cats that come with every abode.
Then up one flight to our apartment. Great view of the water from our balcony. And the beach right there for us to swim in any old time we choose. Nice.
Andy taking in the view.Pretty darn nice having your own beach. No complaints about the beach here.
And this dwelling being an apartment, we have a kitchen. Breakfast does not come with apartments. But frankly, calling any of the tiny spaces one might consider making anything fancier than a sandwich in, a “kitchen” is really a misnomer. Yes, there is a stove. Great. And a fridge. Very small and not very cold. A double sink with no stopper. So, how does one do dishes? No spatula. No toaster. No paper towels. No salt and pepper. The list goes on and on.
View of my computer station. No desk or even an inside table on which to write, much less eat. Banged my knees a couple of times, but although it was a bit inconvenient, I was still able to share my less than favorable feelings about the whole set-up with all of you.
But what this town does have is a great supermarket.
So, after Andy took a swim while I played lifeguard and read a book on our balcony, we went grocery shopping. A bit difficult since nothing in the grocery stores have English labels, but we managed. So, for dinner tonight, beef and pork patties with sauteed mushrooms, corn on the cobb, and bagged Caesar salad.
And for breakfast tomorrow morning – ham, eggs (going to be fun flipping eggs without a spatula), bread (no toaster) with jam or cheese, yogurt with mixed fresh fruit, cherry juice, and of course coffee from a pod. Life is still mighty fine. Considering!
Friday, October 6, 2023
We both slept really well. Woke when we were ready to get up, with no real plans for today. So, after a nice cup of coffee, I made breakfast. Turned out fine, but I will be extraordinarily glad to be home where conveniences such as spatulas are available and with a stove that I don’t have to figure out the logistics of the appliance in order to heat a burner.
For example: The stove in this apartment is just freakin’ crazy. First you must figure out which flush round button goes with which burner. Then how do you turn the dial? Silly Patti. You press it in, it pops out, you turn the dial to the level of heat you want, not in Fahrenheit or Celsius, but in 1, 1½, 2, 2½, etc. And to make things even more user friendly (not), most of the marks are worn off. But eventually, with Andy’s help, I found a burner that worked.
The “knob” all aglow is producing heat. What more could you ask for? And the answer is – a lot!
So, at least we will not starve. And truly, I am very glad to have even a tiny kitchen like this one at my disposal. I am extremely tired of Greek food. I’m totally craving Mexican or Chinese, or good old American cuisine.
After I made us a bread, cheese, ham, and chips lunch, we decided to take a ride around our peninsula. The peninsula of Kassandra is obviously the summer tourist retreat for affluent Greeks and Europeans. Beautiful villas, trendy shops, restaurants on every corner, and grocery stores, the like of which, I wish we had on Camano Island.
But after a bit of driving, I just wanted to head back to our apartment and read. We had been so busy the last 3½ weeks, that I just wanted to take it easy. No pressure, no narrow roads to traverse, no crazy drivers wanting to pass us on a curve at 80 k, and maybe a bit of a nap. That didn’t happen, but a had a chance to finish one book and start another. Then it was time to go to dinner.
On our ride today we had passed a pizza place called Casablanca. Complete with a full sized posterboard picture of Bogie. And since I was hungry for pizza, we chose that place for dinner. Bad choice. It wasn’t that the pizza was bad. It just didn’t have any flavor at all. But as anyone knows who has visited a restaurant for the first time (virtually everyone on this planet), you pays your money and takes your chances. Well, needless to say, we will not be going back to this particular restaurant!
Then back to our apartment, where we met the owner. He spoke very poor English, but seemed to know enough to tell us he was a retired Army General.
The place we are staying is truly in a wonderful setting. Big yard and the house is situated so that no direct sun comes in the water facing side. So, you can sit on the deck comfortably any time of the day. The owners have their own entrance and live in half of the dwelling. Then there are 2 apartments that they let to tourists. Ours is on the top level. And except for the fact that the kitchen is ridiculously small, there is no dining table inside, and the “L” shaped couch must have been purchased at a deep discount, the bed is comfy and the lighting better than in a couple of the places we have stayed. At least here I don’t feel like I’m in a cave!
Saturday, October 7, 2023
Slept late and woke up much refreshed. After breakfast, Andy decided he needed another cup of coffee. And this time he decided to froth some of the milk we had purchased. And yes, there was a milk frothing gizmo in our kitchen. So, after making the shot, he heated the milk, and used this new implement of mass destruction. Then he took a sip. Seems we had purchased buttermilk. So, down the sink it went. And back to the store for us later in the day.
But for now, I’m going to join Mr. C. on the balcony for a couple of chapters in my latest book.
At about 1:30 we decided to take a ride around the third peninsula of the Halkidiki.
The particular shape of Halkidiki resembles a small amount of land mass with three fingers pointing into the Aegean Sea. The 3 peninsulas are also referred to as Poseidon’s trident. The peninsulas are called Kassandra, Sithonia, and Mount Athos.
We had previously visited the most eastern peninsula, Mt. Athos, if you can consider seeing the peninsula by boat visiting it. But as I explained previously, the entire peninsula is inhabited by monks. So, we mere peons, especially those of us who were given female organs by the God these men profess to worship (I’m not going to say anymore on this subject), were not allowed to step on this land. Of course, regular men (and I use the term correctly) are also not allowed on this sacred ground unless they have obtained some kind of permit.
Kassandra, the furthest west peninsula is where we are currently stationed. And the one we explored the day before. So, for today’s adventure, we decided to drive around the middle finger, the lovely peninsula of Sithonia. And when I say lovely, I truly mean it! We were even lucky enough to see a jackal slowly loping across the road. He or she seemed totally unconcerned that we were there. And like most of the rural roads in Greece, there were very few cars on the road. Just the way we like it.
That mountain in the haze is Athos.A beautiful mini church along the way. A nice man I met outside the church. (Best place tomeet a guy wouldn’t you agree?) (Outside the church.)(Inside might have been a bit cramped.)
Another view of Mt. Athos.
The gulfs that surround this peninsula are the Singitic Gulf to the east and the Toronean Gulf to the west. With two very large peaks in the center of the peninsula. The landscape is covered with vineyards, forests, grasslands, shrubland, and mountains. With beautiful beaches on the northern, western, and southern part of the peninsula. And very large and lavish villas everywhere you look.
Porto Koufo, where we stopped for a late lunch, is the largest natural harbor in Greece. And by any standards you care to mention, the harbor is tiny. But extraordinarily beautiful. A very impressive area which puts you under a spell with its charming ambiance and secluded beaches. And apparently, it is the best fishing spot in the area. From the harbor’s exit we were driving on the most southern part of Sithonia.
The word koufo in Greek means “deaf”. This town was given that name because of one’s inability to hear the sea within the confines of the inlet. The inlet was also used to hide Axis (Nazi Germany & Fascist Italy) submarines during WWII. (Some claim to fame, eh!)
After our late lunch, it was already 5:00, so we had to bid adieu to this gorgeous area. We knew we had about an hour and a half drive ahead of us to get back to Pefkohori and our apartment on the sea. But first, we had to make a stop at our local supermarket for milk.
Since we had eaten such a late lunch, we made do with what we had in our apartment for dinner. No way could we have even shared an entrée. So, we read until about 9:30 pm, had a small nosh, read some more, and went to bed. Lulled to sleep by the charming sound of neighborhood dogs barking. But regardless of how hard they tried to keep us awake, we managed to sleep despite their incessant vocalization.
PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 3 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 2, 4, and 5.
So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Sunday, September 24, 2023 – Ippola Boutique Hotel, in the tiny village of Mezapos on the Mani Peninsula (still in the Peloponnese Region)
Looking down on our own private beach.
Looking back at the hotel from across the street.
Me sunning myself on our terrace.
Our very own canon right on our terrace. Now how many times does that happen?
A beautiful sunset from our terrace.
After a good night’s sleep, we both woke up about 7:30 am. It was “move to a new hotel day”. So, we wanted to get a reasonably early start. Because frankly, Google maps has no idea how long it is going to take to drive from one location to another. Oh, they know the number of kilometers, but they don’t take into consideration that you can’t drive 100k on hair pin turns. So, we have learned to take their estimated time to drive from point “a” to point “b”, and triple, if not quadruple it. (That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but you catch my drift.)
So, after another wonderful buffet breakfast, we lugged our luggage to POI (our name for our rental car) because POI are the letters that start our license plate combination of letters and numbers. And we like this car about as much as the poi (mashed taro root) we were encouraged to at least try when we were in Hawaii. Both “poi” are very much overrated in our humble opinion!
Anyway, the drive today was wonderful. Very interesting scenery and it still amazes me that so much of the land is so mountainous. Not just hilly, but sheer mountain majesty. With little villages tucked hither and yon to bring a bit of a break to the natural splendor.
Then back down to the coast for sights like this ferry. (This picture is for you Suzie E.)
Andy beside a church praying the brakes hold on the next downhill section of the road. View from one of the many hills we went up and down all day.
But even though we tried very, very hard, we found our hotel with only a couple of wrong turns. And for being in the middle of nowhere, it is a beautiful establishment. And like our room in Monemvasia, our room here has all the modern accoutrements you could ever wish for. But it too is cave like and very dark inside. And the lighting is terrible. But we will make do. We won’t be spending that much time inside, but the lighting is hardly adequate for reading or writing. Thankfully we both have Kindles, so the screens offer enough light to read. But typing on our computer is not fun. And of course, it doesn’t help that I am a horrible typist to begin with. But being unable to see the keys clearly doesn’t help! Oh well, the joys of travel. At least my cold seems to have gone away. For which I am most grateful. And I know Andy can sleep a lot better without me hacking all night.
After we got checked into our room (another room at the very top of the hotel) we decided to check out the beach so that Andy could have a bit of a swim. I waded in the water and tomorrow I will probably join him for a late afternoon swim. I wanted to check out the beach first before I got in the water. From our room, it’s a steep road down to the beach. And there is no sand. Just small to medium sized rocks and on a slope. So, not a good beach for someone whose balance is not what it used to be. But I want to go swimming, so I’m going to make it happen tomorrow. For now, I’m a happy camper in our air-conditioned cave. So, enough for now. I have a mystery to help solve. (Haven’t I always! Then it was off to dinner at our hotel.
We are in such a small village I’m not even sure there is another restaurant available to us without getting in our car. And believe me when I say I am not looking forward to driving out of this village. The road in and out is steep and very narrow. And with a standard transmission, every hill climb leaves me quaking. I’m not usually afraid of hills, and over the years we have driven up and down some very dicey roads. But with our powerless rental car and it being a manual transmission, my nerves may never be the same. But it is what it is. And Andy is a good driver. I am, however, not a good passenger. At least not when we are driving up a steep hill where there is hardly any room to pull over. But enough about my nervous condition.
We decided that at least for tonight, we would give our hotel restaurant a try. And OMG, I don’t know where their chef learned to cook, but my pressed lamb patty over feta mashed potatoes was absolutely delicious. And Andy’s fresh ravioli stuffed with ricotta, spinach, fresh dill, and lemon was amazing. And for the first time, there was not too much food. Just a perfect amount for our senior appetites.
Then it was back to our deck to watch the sun set. Then inside to read until we could no longer keep our eyes open.
View back at the small village of Mezapos from the next hill over.
Monday, September 25, 2023
Slept very well despite the heat rash or whatever that has magically appeared on the back of my legs from behind my knees to my butt. I think sitting in our car and it being hot despite the air conditioning is causing the rash. Either that, or sand fleas or some other critters have found me a tasty treat. Whichever, it itches! Not enough to drive me crazy yet, but it could well become the thing that puts me over the edge. But please don’t get me wrong. I am very much enjoying our holiday. However, after discussing the situation with Andy, we might be better off at this stage of our life, to get to know Rick Steves better. Although, we would never get to stay in small hotels and guest houses like we have experienced so far on our trip. And these off-the-beaten-track accommodations are the kind of places we like the best. So, if we live through this adventure, we may perhaps give it one more try. But this is not the time or place to make that decision. It’s time to go to breakfast.
And once again, there are more savory dishes, pastries, fruits, veggies, breads, etc. than we could ever eat. And fresh orange juice and the best Americano I have had since Camano Island.
Then back to our room for me to catch up on this travel report and Andy to plot out any adventures that might interest us. And what an adventure he came up with. Now, one thing I have discovered about myself that seems to have come upon me recently, is that I have developed a grand and formidable case of acrophobia. And when Dr. Andy identified my condition from my symptoms this afternoon, I agreed he had me pegged correctly. For those of you like me, who until today had no idea what acrophobia was, allow me to elucidate. Acrophobia is a mental health condition in which the individual experiences an intense fear of heights. It’s a type of anxiety disorder. A person with acrophobia experiences intense fear and anxiety when they think of tall heights or are positioned at a significant height.
On the way to “Land’s End”. Not at the end because it gets worse the further along you go. At least on this part, we could stop and take a picture. Towards the end of the road – no way in hell was I going to get out of the car!
Even further away from “Land’s End”. Still some houses, but already the roads are scary as hell!
Now something you should know is that never in my life have high places caused me anything but delight. But today, on our drive to the southernmost tip of the Mani Peninsula, and not coincidentally, the southernmost tip of Greece itself, have I ever been so scared.
We started from our hotel in Mezapoz, up and out of this beach town to the main road. And I use the term “main road” very loosely. Then we decided to go north a bit and check out the location of the Diros Cave tour we would be taking tomorrow. (More to follow about the cave.) Then north a bit more to the outskirts of Areopoli. And that’s where the fun began.
We have driven some exciting roads in the past. In lots of different countries. But either I am turning into a wuss, or we have suddenly become more adventurous. And when I say we, I really mean Andy has become more adventurous. Because today, the man was fearless. Never to the point of putting us in danger. But enough for me to be so anxious I could hardly breathe. (Are we having fun yet?) And you must understand. These are not 2 lane roads. In places there’s not even what you would call one lane. And never flat. Always either up or down and hairpin turns. WITH NO BLOODY GUARD RAILS! (How can these people live like this?) So, when he turned off the “main” road to go down to what is lovingly called “Land’s End”, I almost lost it. Needless to say, I wasn’t even talking to Andy by the time we got back to the “main road”. He asked me if I was better now, and my answer was an adamant NO! But we made it back to our little village and our hotel in one piece. And I am once again speaking to the driver. But I may never be the same again!
This delightful drive took us through what could only be called a loop. Would I ever go on this “loop” again? Not bloody likely. But we did see some amazing things. Like the little church in the town of Lagia where we stopped for lunch.
The outside of the church.
The inside with its beautiful frescos.
Picture of the church with a caravan parked in front. Talked with the owner for a bit and found out that people camping in Greece rarely stay in campgrounds. They just find a place to park on a beach and let their solar panels work their magic. And as for water, she told me it could be found easily and everywhere. Dump stations, not so much. (I didn’t ask how they handle black and grey water. I felt it might be better if I remained ignorant on the subject!)
On the north side of the Village Church is what appears to be the square base of a tower, in which resides an unusually large bell. The church contained some wonderful frescos, and the door was wide open and unattended. The church also had a tall, marble campanile, which contained several pieces of old marble, but like most of the churches, this was a more recent addition. The octagonal dome had arched facets with intricate brickwork decorations. The door of the church had a wonderful carved lintel. Walking round the outside of the church, you couldn’t fail to notice the massive rectangular blocks of marble, interspersed with sandstone blocks, with which the walls had been constructed. The intricate cloisonné brickwork decorations were also exceptional. An absolutely amazing find.
So, even though today’s adventure scared the pickles out of me, I’m very glad to have seen the sights we saw today. And hopefully some of the pictures we took will give you a glimpse of the beauty we witnessed in person.
Tuesday, September 26, 2023
Today was our day to go to the Vlychada Cave in Diros Bay. So, after another lovely buffet breakfast, we were on our way by about 9:30 am.
Vlychada Cave in Diros is one of the most beautiful caves in the world and is located on the west coast of the Laconian Peninsula, in Diros Bay. (And the main reason we chose to visit this out of the way part of Greece to visit.)
Its existence was known to the locals since around 1900, but exploration started in 1949 when the founders of the Hellenic Speleological Society were the first to conduct a systematic exploration. By 1960, 1,600 meters had been explored and mapped. Today this number has increased to 14,700 meters.
The cave began to form hundreds of thousands of years ago. The stalactites and stalagmites that are now underwater were formed when the surface of the sea was far below its current level. Under the sparse Mani landscape, nature has patiently and artistically sculpted a miracle beyond imagination – white stalactites and stalagmites, impressive waterfalls (in the Spring) and glittering crystals adorn every corner, creating an incomparable spectacle that takes your breath away!
Referred to as only the Diros Cave, the cave is perhaps the most important natural site in Greece. The Paleolithic and Neolithic artifacts found here, many of which are on display in the museum, mean that the cave was one of the earliest inhabited places in Greece. Some say that the cave goes even further than explored so far. Maybe as far as Mount Tagetos and Sparta.
Located at the top of the Mani Peninsula between the town of Pirgos Dirou and Areopolis, the entrance is a few meters above the sea and a beautiful stone beach. When you arrive at the cave you buy a 10 euro per person ticket at the booth and continue driving down to the parking lot just outside the entrance.
When you enter the cave, you walk down a stairway to an underground lake where there are small, maximum 7 people including the guide, boats waiting. You are given a life-vest, take your assigned seat (not an easy feat), and then the boat guide uses a pole to journey us through the caverns and tunnels, which are eerily lit and adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. You pass through many sections just wide enough to allow the boat, and where you must duck your head. Some areas are fairly large subterranean rooms where you can hear the voices of people on other boats in the distance. The air is a comfortable seventy degrees at any time of the year, so my bringing a light jacket was not necessary.
Even though Andy took a lot of pictures, the pictures don’t do justice to the magnificence of this natural wonder. It is truly a sight best seen firsthand. But I am going to post the pictures anyway!
There was even a dragon in the cave while we were on the walking part of our tour.
Then it was back to our room for me to do some laundry, write about our cave adventure, and Andy to take the car to the end of the road our hotel is on. For me, yesterday’s adventure to Land’s End was so terrifying, I firmly said “no thank you” to Andy when he asked me if I would like to go along. I have trepidations, and yesterday firmly reminded me when something should simply remain off limits for me.
After Andy returned from his solo adventure, that he promptly told me was not actually that exciting, and after a quick shower for him, we decided to visit the nearby village of Areopoli.
After finding a place to park, we walked a bit and decided that lunch would be nice. And I must say, this little restaurant made the best pork gyro I have had so far. Perfectly seasoned meat, the tzatziki was very flavorful, and the pita soft and tender. Andy had a kebab filled gyro and his choice was also delicious. After our simple lunch we walked around the pretty village for a bit before heading for our car and the return trip to our own tiny little village.
A pretty little church in Areopoli.
Then do some more laundry and read out on our balcony deck. Life just doesn’t get much better than this. Especially because we have a cloud covering so sitting outside is pleasant. Rain and possible thunder showers are in the forecast, so we might have an exciting night. But I’m sure the residents of this area would welcome some rain. Not too much rain, but enough to settle the dust and water the flora and fauna. Speaking of fauna – there are cats everywhere in Greece. Big city or tiny village – makes no difference. And although they aren’t fat kitties, they all look reasonably healthy. And they have begging down to a science. And of course, neither of us can refuse them anything. But we must choose our time carefully to “accidentally” drop a bit of meat or cheese under our dining chair. (The restaurant staff are obviously not as enamored of these little darlings as we are and basically just ignore them.) So, we have become as sneaky as the kitties. I mean really! How could we possibly resist feeding an orange kitty? Or any kitty for that matter!
Well, it’s about 6:30 pm and while Andy is plotting our route towards our next accommodation, I am finishing this trip report for today. Of course, if what we ordered for dinner is as wonderful as the first night and the fabulous pizza we shared last evening for dinner, I may have to add a comment about our dinner tonight. If not, then when we get back to our room, I will pack as much as possible this evening to give us more time in the morning to linger over our breakfast.
Well, the dinner salad was wonderful but the pasta for the Carbonaro was not al dente. And you know, I just about can’t eat pasta that is super mushy anymore. Spoiled? You bet! But my frozen strawberry daiquiri and Andy’s mojito were perfect.
I am going to miss this quiet village and the fine people at this hotel. But then, all the staff and owners of the hotels, guest houses, and apartments we have visited so far have been very gracious and kind. I really like the people of Greece.
Judging by how dark and ominous the clouds have become, we are in for a noisy night. So, with thoughts of thunder, lightning, and rain happening while we sleep, I nodded off.
Wednesday, September 27, 2023 – Vila Thailanda, Katakolo
Well, what a noisy night we spent. As soon as it got dark, and even before we went to bed, lightning appeared to the west over the water. The lightning was far enough away that we couldn’t hear the thunder and came in both bolts and what looked to me like heat lightning. But during the night it sounded like the lightning storm was happening right over our heads. Because the thunder followed immediately after the lightning strike. But to the best of my knowledge, it didn’t really start to rain heavily until this morning. About 20 minutes before we were ready to go to breakfast. So, we waited for a pause in the downpour and skedaddled down the outside stairs from our lofty room, up the sidewalk to the actual hotel entrance, and inside the dining room with as much speed as our old legs could carry us.
Most other meals we had enjoyed outside. Mostly covered with just a roof (no walls) or large patio umbrellas. But in a torrential downpour, you really need a real roof if you want to stay dry. And I’m positive the serving staff agreed with our decision to not dine al fresco this time. There is after all, a limit to their patience with crazy tourists! (As well there should be.)
Anyway, by the time we had finished breakfast, the rain had all but stopped. So, we hurriedly finished packing, and with the help of Dimitre, the young man who appeared to be available to assist guests at the hotel 24/7, we got our luggage in the car and were on our way before the next squall appeared.
And yes, we really got some serious rain as we were driving north on the Mani Peninsula. But after a while, the sun appeared periodically, and driving was easy. All the roads were good and for most of the way, the roads remained fairly flat, or as flat as this country allows.
When we arrived at what we thought was the right place, there was no actual address on any of the closely spaced gated villas. Each block, or what I would consider a block, was numbered. And our confirmation showed that we should be at number 12 Agios Gerasimos. (Whatever an Agios Gerasimos is. Or any sign that held that reference.) So, we called the number listed on our confirmation.
At first it felt a bit touch and go. The man who answered the call had no idea the Vila was rented for today and tomorrow and said he had to verify the reservation with “the lady”. (Whomever “the lady” was!) But he took our names, country of origin, etc. and said he would have to call us back. Which he did. All was fine. Then he said he would drive over to let us in and explain everything to us. And that he would be over in 6-7 minutes. Which he was.
He went over everything with us, lights, how to open and shut the gate, etc. etc. When I asked about the breakfast that was to be provided by the Vila and where I could find a supermarket, he told us to follow him. So, we got in our car and followed our guide to the closest supermarket.
Calling this tiny space for provisioning a supermarket is a bit of a stretch. In fact, it is such an exaggeration as to be ridiculous. For fresh produce, only a box of tomatoes and a few onions. No cheese or salami that wasn’t pre-packaged. No meat (or I think it was meat) that wasn’t frozen. In fact, the store was actually smaller than your average 7-11. But our guide was there to buy us groceries for our breakfast. So, 2 quarts of milk, 2 pint sized bottles of chocolate milk, 3 types of bread, a package of bologna and cheese, several small containers of butter, a big jar of cherry jam, some Cheetos (more like weak cheese straws), a 12 pack of bottled water, 2 packaged chocolate croissants, a milk chocolate bar, 4 small containers of yogurt, a quart of orange juice, several small packages of Nescafe (for our breakfast coffee) and 15 fresh eggs were packaged up and ready for our taking and all paid for by Vasilis.
After Vasilis (our host/guide/whatever) led us part way back to the Vila, we waved goodbye to each other and headed back to our residence for the next 2 nights to unload our groceries and bring in our luggage from the car.
Our 3-bedroom apartment. Our beach.Another view. Place to be right next to the beach but still semi in the shade.
And since it was nearly 3:00 pm when we got back to the Vila, I decided since we had so much bread, I might as well use some of our breakfast supplies to make us lunch. So, bologna and cheese sandwiches with a side of insipid cheese straws. Followed by Caprice. (Greek chocolate wafer rolls.) They at least were wonderful.
After lunch, Andy explored the sandy beach, and I got caught up on this travel report. And what a beautiful beach this is. Sandy and with a gentle slope into the water. And off to the right towards the marina, a huge floating hotel (aka cruise ship) was moored. Frankly, the ship looked like it was a picture of a cruise ship that had been cut and pasted into a picture of a small and quiet harbor. But we knew why it was in port. Because we too were in this area of Greece to see ancient Olympia. Which was on our agenda for the next day.
Since we had eaten lunch in the midafternoon, and it was much too early to think about dinner, we spent a bit of quality time with our Kindles. We normally would be sitting outside while reading, but with the rain we had received earlier, the lovely grassy area between the Vila and the beach was alive with some kind of annoying biting insect. So, being the fragile darlings that we are, we took shelter in our air-conditioned living room. Andy with a before dinner Scotch set before him and me with a glass of ice water. Life is good. Well at least until you decide it’s time to go out for dinner and you try to turn off the kitchen lights.
We tried every light switch in this 3-bedroom, one bath apartment to shut off the lights in the kitchen before we went to dinner. But to no avail. Of course, we found the light switch to turn on the colored lights around the perimeter of the kitchen floor and ceiling, and the switch to turn on the lighting under the counter that is open to the living room (totally worthless BTW), but not how to turn off the light by the stove. Oh, there’s a switch by the light, but nothing happens when you flip it either way. So, leaving the kitchen light on, we went to the marina for dinner. I wanted fish.
And there on the menu was a mixed seafood platter just waiting to be ordered. God help me if I ever do that again. At least in Greece. I swear the grease had not been changed since before Covid. The batter for the shrimp (head, tail, guts, and legs), anchovies, cod, and squid was fine, but the fat the seafood had been cooked in tasted rancid to me. And no aioli or tartar sauce for the fish. There was a very garlicky sauce, but it was horrible. Oh well, you can’t win them all.
Then it was back to our Vila for more reading and then lights out. And again, what fun we had with the various light switches. One of them turned on the overhead light in the master bedroom. Great. Always nice to see where you’re going. But how to turn on the lights nicely placed for reading in bed? Not a clue as to how to turn them on. And believe me we looked and then looked some more. But we did find a way to turn on a light under our bed.
Now you too might wonder what that light was for. And please, if you have a reasonable and not naughty suggestion, we would appreciate your input.
Then it was time to turn down the bed. And what to our wondering eyes should appear, but pillows without pillowcases. So, we went to the linen closet expecting to find a nice assortment. Nope. Not a pillowcase to be found. So, remembering that there were two other bedrooms from which to raid supplies, we found not only more pillows, but some actually had pillowcases on them. I chose one and off to bed I went.
Now, if you have ever slept on a scented pillow and enjoyed it, more power to you! But I woke up in the middle of the night thinking we were being poisoned. Because the air smelled so bad, I could hardly stand to keep breathing. I was sure there was a leak in the apartment of some kind that was going to prove fatal. But then I realized the odor was coming from my pillow. What? So, I changed to a different pillow. Still the horrible smell. So, I covered the second pillow with one of my jackets and finally could get back to sleep. It wasn’t till morning when I asked Andy if the odor had kept him awake when he answered, “what odor” that I began to question my sanity. Which now brings us to…..
Thursday, September 28, 2023
Andy in his infinite wisdom had not chosen a “Laura Ashley” pillow. And low and behold, his pillow did not stink. So, the first thing I did was get rid of the retched things and find one that was not scented. God, who would do such a mean thing to an unsuspecting tourist? Anyway, I think I have solved the problem and that I should be able to sleep better tonight. And today was going to be fun. After all, this was our day to visit ancient Olympia. But first, breakfast.
How to describe a packaged chocolate croissant? Well, for me horrible works just fine. And Nescafe powdered coffee? Not worth bothering. And the whole wheat bread that made great sandwiches yesterday, would have been fabulous, but the toaster was dead. And of course, because there was no fruit at the “supermarket” we had visited the day before, our banana apple yogurt was less than desirable. But the scrambled eggs I made were OK. And so was the dried bread (I think it’s called rusk) slathered with lots of jam. We didn’t even bother opening the orange juice in a carton and neither of us was interested in the chocolate milk.
So, after washing the dishes in the sink and letting them air dry, we were on our way to ancient Olympia. Which was fabulous!
Olympia, located in the Ilia region in the north-west of the Peloponnese Peninsula, dates back to the end of the final Neolithic period (4th millennium BC), and is considered one of the most important places to trace the roots of Western society due to its religious, political, and sports tradition. Olympia was the center of worship of Zeus, the father of the twelve Olympian gods. Some of the most remarkable works of art were created to adorn Altis, the sacred grove and sanctuary.
Great artists, such as Pheidias, put stamps of inspiration and creativity here, offering unique artistic creations to the world. Μany masterpieces have survived: large votive archaic bronzes, pedimental sculptures, and metopes from the temple of Zeus, and the famous complex of Hermes by Praxiteles. These are all major works of sculpture and key references in the history of art.
Olympia was also the birthplace of the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world. The Olympic Games took place here every four years from 776 BC to 393 AD. The Olympic Game, the most famous and important sporting event in the ancient world—paid homage to the finest athletes. That tradition continues to this day, nearly 3,000 years later. But Olympia was not just used every four years to laud mortals. It was also a place where remarkable works of art and culture were created and shared to worship the Greek god Zeus.
It is this melding of history and the molding of modernity that makes this site so special. The Olympic Games in the times of ancient Greece were about more than sport. They represented peace and the nobility of competition. These ideals, and elements of the events, have continued to this day.
The modern Olympic Games are undoubtedly the world’s most important sporting competition and have their basis here. From the marathon to the olive wreath and the regularity of the event, there are still clear influences today from the ancient Greek times.
Some pictures from Olympia.
Mr. C. enjoying the scene.A bathtub, ancient Olympia style.Originally the tunnel entrance to the stadium.Andy with his feet on the original starting line for the race. At first it was only the Olympic Game. Only one event. A race. Up and back on the track. Later it became a longer race. Up and back and up and back again. With more events added as time went on. Note that there are no stands. People sat on the slopes surrounding the track and enjoyed the races picnic style. On a blanket while munching on whatever they brought to provide sustenance while enjoying the show. Notice the white stone in the middle of the picture. It had recently been cleaned to show what it looked like originally. The stone just beneath it had also been cleaned a bit. But the others are as they appear after centuries of exposure to the elements.
Stepping into the stadium, you imagine the roar of the crowd. This is the same track where athletes raced from the very beginning of the games. While the remains of dozens of buildings and temples sit among the shade of trees on the archaeological site. Some were specifically built for sporting events, and some for the worship of Zeus. The on-site museum holds a collection of priceless artefacts that once decorated the sanctuary. And of course, we had to visit the museum.
How it is perceived Olympia looked in its heyday.
After walking around this amazing site and visiting the museum, we felt it must be time for ice cream (me) and iced coffee (Andy). After all, we had been on the same ground that the ancients used when competing against their fellow athletes. But at least we were allowed to wear clothes. Apparently during the first Olympics, the men competed naked and barefooted. Not a pair of Nike shoes to be found. But, to keep from being sunburned to a crisp, they were allowed to cover their bodies with olive oil and dusty earth. What a sight that must have been! Anyway, it was truly awe inspiring just to be on this site. A visit I hope I never forget.
Then back to our car, a stop for lunch, a bit of previsioning at a large supermarket that actually had produce, then back to our apartment for a swim.
Andy got wet but with grey clouds looming over us and the weather folks predicting more thunderstorms, we decided a swim might not be the smartest way to spend our time. So, back in our Vila with the air conditioner humming away and some quality time with our Kindles.
Since we had both just about had it with Greek food, I made dinner. A bologna and cheese sandwich, fruit salad, a sliced tomato, and more of the wimpy Cheetos cheese straws that hopefully we will never encounter again. Then part of a milk chocolate bar for dessert. Then to bed, perhaps to sleep without the stench of perfumed pillows.
Friday, September 29, 2023 – Galaxa Mansion, Galaxidi
Had called the day before to ask the caretaker to meet us so we could turn over the key and gate opener/shutter at 10:30 am. As we were taking our bags to the car at about 10:15, “the lady” appeared. Very pleasant, and truly I didn’t have the heart to tell her the inadequacies I mentioned earlier to her face. So, we thanked her for a nice stay, bought some of her brother’s honey, and were on our way by 10:30 am.
And right away, the terrain was different. It was flat farmland. Flat. The first flat land I think we had yet to encounter. But of course, it didn’t last. As soon as we got to the top of the western part of the Peloponnese Peninsula and close to the town of Patras, we were once again in hill and mountain country. And then, there it was. The bridge over the Gulf of Corinth.
Notice – no other cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. We had the bridge to ourselves.
The Rio–Antirrio Bridge is one of the world’s longest multi-span cable-stayed bridges. It crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponnese Peninsula to Antirrio on mainland Greece. Its official name is the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge. The bridge is widely considered to be an engineering masterpiece, owing to several solutions applied to span the difficult site. These difficulties include deep water, insecure materials for foundations, seismic activity in the area, the probability of tsunamis, and the expansion of the Gulf of Corinth due to plate tectonics.
Well, even with all the things that could have gone wrong while we were crossing the bridge, they didn’t happen. The bridge was just beautiful to see and drive over. However, it was the most expensive toll bridge we have ever crossed. But I guess that’s all right for a once in a lifetime experience. (13 euros, 70 cents) The bridge was sleek and modern and except for the expense was a joy to cross. So, now we are back on mainland Greece.
And what a beautiful ride along the mainland coast of the Gulf of Corinth. Up and around ragged hills and mountain slopes, with charming villages high in the hills to right on the shore.
We stopped for lunch in Zakynthos on St. Nicholas beach. Ordered cod that had just been caught by the father of our waiter. The boat was tied up right by our table. Then on to Galaxidi.
Beautifully fried fresh cod. What a treat.
Found our mansion with no trouble. The nice young receptionist told us we were given an upgraded room. No extra charge. Very quaint, with all the accoutrements we had expected. But very, very small quarters. And to my sheer horror, it also held the same horrific smell that had previously given me a headache. I have surmised at this point, that it may not have been the Laura Ashley pillows that smelled so bad. That the laundry detergent or some kind of drier sheet that is used by hotels etc. is scented and therefore the culprit. Whatever causes the smell, I am not liking it one tiny bit! So, tonight it’s Tylenol PM for me so that hopefully I can sleep through the night.
Breakfast the next morning.One of the3 resident tortoises at the bar.
After loading more library books on my Kindle, we went across the street to the mansion’s patio bar.
The bar and breakfast area across the street from our room.
Andy had an iced coffee drink, and I had a mojito. Fabulous drink. I plan to have another one just before I go to bed since the hotel bar is open until 11:00 pm.
Meanwhile, I am getting caught up on this travel report, while the unscreened windows stay wide open to hopefully carry some of the smell away. So, which is worse? The smell or a thousand new bites? I’m beginning to yearn for home! But with windows that open, I was able to get rid of the smell by air circulation. Yeah me! Then it was time for dinner.
Since our mansion/hotel is in a residential area, we decided to walk down our hill, around the first inlet, then along the road to the second inlet for dinner. Not a long walk but enough to work up an appetite. (About a half kilometer each way.)
We chose a restaurant that offered dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), because Andy is particularly fond of them. On the same menu was schnitzel, which I like very much. So, after ordering, we enjoyed watching other diners and since we were right on the bay, watching small boats come into the harbor. Andy also ordered a dish that was basically cream, feta, and a bit of spice (I think cayenne) whirled together.
When my schnitzel arrived, I thought the waiter had brought me a triple portion. OMG, there was enough meat on my plate to serve 4 hungry eaters. And the ever-present French fries. I swear, after I get home, I am not going to eat another French fry until next summer. French fries are served with everything here. And sometimes, they are even hot.
Towards the end of our meal, I realized I was being eaten alive. My lower legs felt like they were on fire. So, we hastened through the rest of our meal, eating as much as we could. But then, it was time to pay for dinner.
I am going to take a moment at this time to explain the etiquette of paying for one’s meal. And a bit of what it’s like to eat in restaurants in Greece. If you were so inclined, you could sit over your empty plates until the restaurant turned off its lights at 2:00 am. Or so it would seem. None of the citizens of this great country appear in a hurry to leave their table. They dawdle. And the waiters don’t appear eager to have patrons hurry off either. And then, most adults must have an after-dinner smoke or seven. I have seen more people smoking in Greece than any other European country we have visited. And there is almost always too much food. And often a small complimentary appetizer or bread plate and/or an after dinner treat unique to that particular restaurant.
So, after practically tripping our waiter to bring us our check, we made a hasty retreat from the restaurant. By this time, it was dark. And unlike other small villages, there was very little lighting. But we managed.
As we were approaching our room with the mansions’ lovely patio bar right across the way, we decided to have a seat in the bar and watch the moon come over the mountain and the bay.
Andy had a small glass of Kahlúa. I decided I really didn’t need another mojito, so I was prepared to just enjoy the ambiance of the setting. Well, that is, until a party of 4 seniors ordered dessert. Then, I simply could not resist ordering a chocolate soufflé. And OMG, I have never tasted anything so delicious. What a way to top off an evening.
Then, happily ready for a good night’s sleep, we crossed the road and into our room. After a few pages in our respective books, we decided we had enjoyed enough of what today could bring and decided to call it a day.
Saturday, September 30, 2023 – Theatro Hotel Odysseon, Kalambaka
After a fabulous breakfast on the hotel’s patio bar, complete with a visit from the resident tortoise I might add, we were ready to be on our way. But before we could leave, I just had to ask how a tortoise could live on a terrace complete with steps? I just could not imagine a small tortoise climbing and descending steps. But yes, tortoises can go up and down steps. How do I know this? I asked our hotel concierge if this was possible. He assured me that yes indeed the tortoises (it turns out there are 3 tortoises that call the patio bar their home) most certainly can get around just fine. Well, there you go. You learn something new every day. And yes, it was very charming having a tortoise as a breakfast mate. I just wish I had been able to meet the other two also. So, with luggage safely tucked in our car, and our adventure hats firmly affixed to our heads, we were on our way to our next destination.
Both of us had really enjoyed this beautiful little village with its clock tower that signaled the hour and its church bells that rang with what can only be described as “any old time they wanted”. There seemed no rhyme or reason for when they sounded, but then who are we to know the sacred signals that are known only to the residents of any given town. We are simply tourists blessed with the opportunity to witness paradise firsthand!
So, with fond memories to take with us and our trusty map of Greece close at hand, we were back on the road.
Today’s drive would take us north and inland and to the land of ancient monasteries. The area we will be visiting for the next 3 days is called Meteora. But along the way, we witnessed firsthand some of the devastating effects of Storm Daniel. Some roads were closed, even a part of the toll road we had planned to take, forcing us to make unplanned detours. But eventually we found our hotel, and no one was harmed in the process.
View of one of the rock or Meteora from our hotel room.
According to www.visitgreece.gr “One of the greatest monuments of the world, protected by UNESCO and characterized by it as “A Preserved and Protected Monument of Humanity”, Meteora is the most important after Aghios Oros (Mt. Athos) monastic center in Greece. The first ascetics came here in the 11th century. Meteora, however, flourished as a monastic center between the 13th and 14th century as many people who lived in the nearby areas embraced the monastic way of living. Many years ago, the only way of accessing the monasteries of Meteora was by climbing. Back then this meant that you must strive for isolation and pursuit of God. Nowadays this is considered to be an alternative activity and the best way to enjoy the uniqueness of the landscape. Furthermore, most visitors take the steps that have been carved in the rocks. It is also breathtaking to walk along the paths hidden behind the massive rocks, which are considered to be created by clysmian substances, rocks and other materials that were carried by a big river which used to be in this area. Constant wind and rain erosion, as well as other geological changes that happened in the course of time, gave to the rocks their present shape.”
One of the things many people wonder about is the meaning of the name Meteora. Apparently “Meteora” didn’t originate from a fallen meteorite. “Meteora” was the name the monks gave to the giant rock pillars they saw back in the 14th century. It is thought that monks felt the giant cliffs remained suspended between the heavens and the earth. The word Meteoro or Meteoron (plural is Meteora) in the Greek vocabulary translates into something that remains suspended in midair or a thing that floats in the sky. It’s a synonymous word to meteors and the meteorites used in the English language to describe the celestial objects entering our atmosphere or floating in space, originating both from the Greek word “meteoro”.
After arriving we had a late lunch (Latin American nachos) (don’t ask) then up to our room for me to write and Andy to read out on our small balcony. Then off to dinner where Andy was brave enough to order Trachanas – a soup (the pasta is made from flour and fermented milk or yogurt) and the broth (who knows). He liked it OK, but I don’t think I am going to be asked to duplicate it at home. (Fat chance of that anyway!) And of course, while dining, vicious nasty little critters decided my ankles were fair game, so all night I was driven crazy by bites that refused to settle down. Can we go home now? No, first we have to visit Meteora. So, with happy thoughts of climbing and descending stone and wood steps until my body was worn to a frazzle, I drifted off to sleep.
PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 2 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 1, 3, 4, and 5.
So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Sunday, September 17, 2023 – Anavalos Hotel, Day 2 (think private home with 8 guest bedrooms) – Kiveri
Woke up feeling much better and having slept very well, much refreshed. Still a bit of sore throat, but not as painful as yesterday. Still a bit tired too, so taking it a little easy today. And why not? We’re in paradise. A great bed, air conditioning, a fabulous view of the water, someone else to make our breakfast, and plans for later to take a drive, swim in the pool, and generally enjoy our holiday.
I can’t in all conscience call this a vacation. Sometimes I do refer to our trips as vacations, but being retired, it feels like we are on vacation every day. Whether we are at home or away in our trailer or overseas trying to acclimate ourselves to a new culture. Always hoping not to offend anyone in the process.
It is hard sometimes to know how to address someone, to tip them for services, or if in doing so, making them uncomfortable. My greatest fear is that it would be like someone tipping Andy and me after a JazzVox concert at our home. (Of course, no one has ever tried. More the pity! Just kidding.) But I’m sure you have found yourself in the same situation. You don’t want to offend either by doing something or not doing something. But that, in and of itself, is part of the whole travel experience. Learning about other cultures and seeing how other people live. And meeting people who are also new to the area. I’ve actually discussed politics with 3 people from other countries already. And have learned that regardless of where you are from, the political situation in your country isn’t any better than ours. It’s a mess everywhere. Now that should scare the pickles out of you because it sure did me. I was so hoping to hear that Australia’s (for example) government was doing well. Nope. Their political situation is as crazy as ours. But enough about politics and back to Greece.
After a leisurely start to the day and our bellies full of pastry, cheese, yogurt with fruit, veggie omelet, fresh orange juice, and fabulous coffee, it was time for me to write a bit and Andy to find a shady spot to read.
Then it was on to today’s adventure. But first, how am I feeling? Well, it’s Sunday so none of the apothecary shops are open, or I would have already taken a Covid test. Just to make sure that I’m not a living time bomb. I don’t have any of the usual symptoms of Covid, but more like the common cold. I don’t feel bad enough to even stay in the hotel and rest. But tomorrow, there will be a test happening just to make certain.
I feel no worry about being contagious to anyone except Andy, because all interactions with others are outside. All the restaurants, our breakfasts here at our hotel, our conversations with fellow travelers, etc. are in the open air.
Today’s afternoon adventure took us to the top of a hill and the ancient city of Nafplio. Nafplio is one of the most beautiful towns in the Argolis area (in eastern Peloponnese) as well as one of the most romantic cities in Greece. Nafplio was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823 and 1834. According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of the God Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone. The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when soldiers from this area participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War. The town declined during the Roman era but flourished again during Byzantine times. Frankish, Venetian, and Turkish conquerors left their mark in the town and strongly influenced its culture, architecture, and traditions during the centuries. Ancient walls, medieval castles, monuments, statues, Ottoman fountains, and Venetian or neoclassical buildings are everywhere to be seen. But our destination for the day is the Palamidi Fortress.
The Palamidi Castle/Fortressis located on the hill Palamidi of Nafplion at a height of 216 meters and at a strategic point for the control of the Argolic Gulf. It is the best-preserved and considered one of the most beautiful castles in Greece, being an achievement of fortification architecture.
An ancient fortress and an ancient lady
Quite a nice view all things considered.
Palamidi dominates the city of Nafplio, in the sense that it almost floats on a steep hill (216 m) over Nafplio. Between 1711 and 1714 the Venetians built the castle (an amazingly short time), and this is in fact the final fortress of importance the Venetians built outside their own country. It’s also considered one of the most impressive. Yet, in 1715, one year after completion, the Turks defeated the castle.
Nafplio is one of the first places in Greece that won independence. November 29th, 1822, a group of Greek rebels overpowered the Turks in Palamidi, and the next day the town could celebrate its freedom.
From 1840 and for nearly a hundred years, Palamidi was used as a prison, and in conjunction with this the stairs up to the castle were built. It is often said that there are 999 steps, but it’s actually “only” 857. (Andy actually counted them. Not!)
Palamidi is very well preserved, and it’s evocative and beautiful to walk on the worn stones, between the massive walls and buildings. Among the parts of the fortress to visit are a very small door to visit a small jail cell which of course Andy popped in to see, the Ag. Andreas Church, and the eight bastions within the sturdy castle walls.
While I didn’t walk to all 8 bastions because the walkways were unlevel rocks and up and down hills, Andy saw most of the fortress. And to say the vistas were amazing is to put it mildly. But after about 90 minutes, it was time to get back in our car and seek out some lunch. So, back to the fish restaurant we had eaten at the day before to share fried anchovies, taramasalata, and a Greek salad. Then it was back in our Audi and up and out of town. And as it turned out, easier said than done!
Most of the vehicles we encounter are small cars or motorbikes. But as we were going up an especially steep hill towards the main road, around the corner came an American sized truck. And where usually this would not be a problem if you met a car, the truck did not have the turning capacity required to make the turn, so he just stopped to let us go through. Well, on that steep hill and with a manual transmission with no hill-hold we were stuck. Andy tried and tried, but to no avail. Finally, the nice owner/waiter from a close by restaurant came over and offered to help us crazy Americans. So, Andy gets out, he gets in, and he couldn’t make it work either. So, not just us. He finally just backed into a side street and made a run for it up the hill. Then he parked the car for us, told me he loved me (twice), and Andy took over from there. But you should have seen this nice Greek man’s face when he couldn’t get us up the hill at first either. I could almost read his mind. “This piece of _ _ _ _ Audi is worthless.” At least that’s what I surmised he was thinking, because that’s sure as hell what I was thinking too!
Another instance of “I (we) get by with a little help from my (our) friends.” New friends they might be, but friends none-the-less.
Since we were now safely parked next to a grocery store and had just eaten a big meal at 3:30, we decided not to go out for another meal that night. But rather, just purchase a bit of cheese and salami to eat with our leftover bread from “lunch” if we got hungry later that night. Which of course we did. Then it was read outside for a while in the cool of the evening and then to bed with our air conditioner happily keeping us cool all night. Another memorable day in Greece.
Monday, September 18, 2023
After going to bed at a reasonable hour, we were both surprised that we had slept until 9:30. Then down to breakfast and then back to our room to decide on today’s plan of action.
After a bit of research, we decided to go visit Epidauras Theater. This ancient theater was constructed at the end of the 4th century BC. Praised for its symmetry and beauty, the theater has a maximum capacity of 13,000 to 14,000 spectators. The theatre hosted music, singing, and dramatic games that were included in the worship of Asclepius.
Actually, that stone seat was very comfortable. Please note the smile on the theatre goers face. OK, it really doesn’t look like you could sit through a whole play, concert, etc., but really it is much more comfortable than it looks.One of the original entrances to the theatre. Close to the bathrooms I might add.
Asclepius was a hero and God of medicine in ancient Greek religion and mythology. He was supposedly the son of Apollo* and Coronis**. Asclepius basically represented the healing aspect of the medical arts. Therefore, the theater was also used to heal patients, since the citizens of this area held the belief that the observation of dramatic shows had positive effects on mental and physical health.
Today, the monument attracts a large number of Greek and foreign visitors and is used for the performance of ancient drama plays.The first modern performance conducted at the theatre was played in 1938. Performances stopped due to World War II. Theatrical performances began again in 1954 as a theatrical festival. In 1955 they were established as an annual event for the presentation of ancient drama. The Epidaurus Festival continues today during the summer months.
*Apollo is one of the Olympian deities in classical Greek and Roman religion and Greek and Roman mythology. Apollo was known to be the God of archery, music, dance, truth, prophecy, healing and diseases, the Sun and light, poetry, and more. One of the most important and complex of the Greek Gods, he was the son of Zeus and Leto, and the twin brother of Artemis, goddess of the hunt. He was considered to be the most beautiful god and was represented as the ideal of the kouros (ephebe, or a beardless, athletic youth).
**In Greek mythology, Coronis was a princess and Apollo’s lover. By Apollo she became pregnant and the mother of Asclepius. While she was still pregnant, she was suspected of cheating on Apollo with a mortal man and was subsequently killed by a God for her betrayal. After failing to heal her, Apollo rescued their unborn child (Asclepius) by caesarean section. After her death, Coronis was turned into a constellation.
After finding a place to park, we paid our admission and walked up to the theater. Huge, and it is said that you can hear performers speak without voice magnification from the last row of the theater. The acoustics are purported to be just that good. And it had been a lovely ride to the theater. Mountainous roads but good, scattered villages, and very little traffic.
After viewing the theater and having a bit of ice cream, we decided to extend our adventure and head out to Methana.
The peninsula of Methana with its two steep volcanic slopes is a volcano that emerged from the sea. And is famous for its stunning volcanic landscape with dense vegetation, coastal villages, and diverse flora and fauna. The establishment of the spa complex in 1870 made it a popular spa town attracting mainly senior citizens from many European countries.
Well, these senior citizens couldn’t visit this area today because the road was closed. No explanation and even Google Maps didn’t know about the closure. So, it was back to our hotel for me to write and Andy to take a dip in the pool.
But even if we couldn’t get to this area, we had a great ride through the mountains and saw many lovely sights. And great vistas from along the road. So, not a total loss.
Tried to stop at our local apothecary, but by the time we got back to Kiveri at before 4:00 pm, the bloody pharmacy was already closed. So, yet again, no Covid test kit. Back to our room terribly unhappy with myself for leaving home without a kit. It will never happen again. Even if I am only going into Stanwood for groceries! To be continued after dinner.
One thing I have learned, the hard way, is that food portions are huge here. And once again, thinking I was just ordering three appetizers, I couldn’t clean my plate. So, for example, when I ordered meatballs for 3.50 euros, I got 8 2-inch meatballs with tomato sauce on the side. And fried eggplant, several pieces. And the tzatziki would have been enough for 4 people. And then there’s the bread that comes with every meal. It’s thickly cut, coarse textured, and slightly yellow. And delicious.
Andy ordered just a portion of moussaka, not a full meal, and still it was too much food for the two of us. And we hadn’t had lunch so by 6:00 pm we were hungry. Just an example of the generous spirit of this country.
Then back to our room. Andy for a swim, me to write a bit, and then a couple of chapters in our books. Then shut the large patio door, lower the metal blinds, and turn on the air. What a way to live.
Tuesday, September 18, 2023 – Bay View Guest House, Kalamata
Well, last night was not the best night’s sleep I have ever had. I kept coughing all night. I’m sure it must have nearly driven Andy crazy. But what can you do when your body is rebelling. For sure, before we do anything else today, I am going to find a Covid kit. But as sure as I am that I can find one with directions in English, Andy is just as skeptical. But I must try. Because I simply want to know. What I have feels just like a head cold, but if I have Covid I want to take every precaution with people around me.
Today we move to a new guest house, and I don’t want to assume that I am OK. While at Anavalos, we were never in a room with anyone. Like I said earlier, every encounter is outside. But that may not be the case at our next abode.
So, after extending a fond farewell to the owner Yacek, we were on our way. First stop – the local apothecary for test kits and more masks. Then on the road to Kalamata.
Over hill and dale and 3 toll booths later, we were in the small city of Kalamata. Then follow the directions given to us by the owner of Bay View Guest House, and up we climbed once again towards our destination.
Now, I believe I have already mentioned that our Audi is not the most pleasant of vehicles to drive. Oh, it’s OK unless you want to go uphill. Then you better put your foot to the gas pedal and pray that there are no oncoming vehicles because stopping on a steep hill is tantamount to disaster. We made it with only one wrong turn, but it was not easy even with Google maps (our new best friend by the way). Because we are at the top of the hill. Nothing behind us but one other villa and then a cliff. But OMG the view and accommodations are incredible.
The owner’s mother Olga greeted us. She and her husband had lived in the US for 17 years and she was thrilled to have Americans as guests. And the apartment was amazing. The only thing that caught me a bit by surprise was that I would have to cook our breakfast the next morning. But everything I could possibly want was either in the fridge or on the counter. Ham, cheese, eggs fresh from their own chickens, fresh fruit, yogurt, orange juice, you name it. I must say, instead of being upset, I was thrilled.
Breakfast on our deck. Check out the amazing view.
Being away from a kitchen too long often gives me hives. So, being able to cook our breakfast was a treat. And we were told not to do the dishes. They would be happy to do them for us. I tried to put a stop to that right there and then. I told Olga doing the breakfast cleanup was Andy’s job. (Actually, I do the breakfast dishes at home while Andy makes the bed and takes care of all things cat.) But I didn’t want these good people to have to clean up any mess that I made. But I got over it and left the dishes like a good little guest. (I could get used to this!)
But of course, now I am going to have to buy an apron. (Like I need one more apron!) But desperate times require desperate measures. And cooking without an apron just feels sick and wrong.
For dinner we took the advice of our hostess and went down to the marina area for dinner. Took a couple three wrong turns to find and place. But it was well worth the effort.
Andy had a dish he really wants me to repeat at home. It was a long thin slice of bread spread with taramasalata, grilled squid, and a small amount of brown gravy. I had battered cod with mashed potatoes, mashed beets, and probably cooked beet greens. Couldn’t tell for sure, but they were stringy but very flavorful. And of course, toasted bread drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with dried herbs. A very fine dinner. Then back up the bloody hill to our room in the sky.
Oh, and BTW, I took the Covid test, and it was negative. Of course, I am thrilled, but I’m still not feeling as well as I would like.
And just in case you ever need to take a Covid test while in a foreign country, and the directions look like Greek to you (and in this case they were), go online and search under the manufacturers name and Covid then type in “English instructions” and all will be revealed. (And Andy of course had been right. Nary an English word to be seen on the test kit instructions.)
Wednesday, September 20, 2023
Slept long and hard. I was only up three times during the night with coughing attacks, but the rest of the night I slept like the dead.
Woke up to sunny skies (no duh), had a cup of coffee, took my shower, made breakfast, cleaned up the kitchen, and then sat down to bring this travel report up to date. Now it’s time to decide what grand adventure to go on today. To be continued……
This afternoon we decided to take a scenic drive along the coast and up into the mountains to visit the tiny coastal village of Kardamyli. But just as we were leaving our room, the alarm system went off. We went back in our room, checked everything we could to try and make things right. Tried calling the owner (Nadia) and her mother (Olga) who lives on site but could not get through to either party.
Andy headed out to find Olga, and discovered it wasn’t our room that was causing the alarm. It was from one of the other rooms. And all they were doing was trying to leave their room and step onto their patio. At least it wasn’t us causing the trouble. At least this time! But back to our afternoon adventure. It appears it was just coincidental that as we were leaving our room, the alarm problem started. (Sure it was!)
At first glance Kardamyli is a sleepy fishing village. It lies about one hour south of Kalamata. The drive itself is beautiful, but at times it is hair raising to say the least. I don’t believe there was one single kilometer of flat the whole way.
Kardamyli has a long and varied history. First mentioned in Homer’s epic poem the Iliad, written about 1200bc, the village was offered to Achilles by Agamemnon to tempt him back to the siege of Troy. At that time, Kardamyli was the main port of the ancient Greek city-state of Sparta.
Many of the buildings in Old Kardamyli or “upper village” were built in the Venetian style. You can also see tower houses built by the Niklian clans. At the back of the old town are the tombs of the twin gods Castor and Pollux. Pausanias wrote that from the seashore here the Nereids came out to admire the sons of Achilles. In more modern times it was the jumping off point for the declaration of Greek independence from the Turks, when Kolokotroni and other captains from the Mani marched towards Kalamata on March 23, 1821. At one time, it was also known as a base for foreign pirates.
The village centers around the high street with upmarket boutiques, cafes, and bars. The older buildings in the main town tend to be around 300 years old and are built from local stone. There are no large-scale tourist developments, hotels, or guest houses. But what has been changed or updated blends in well with the local architecture.
After viewing the town, we had a wonderful dinner at a restaurant right on the water. After then it was back to our guest house, a bit of hand clothes washing for me, writing, and then back to help Miss Marple solve another mystery. Another great day in Greece if only my cough would go away! Luckily Andy is just fine. Because there isn’t any amount of money to get me behind the wheel of our rental car. Even though I learned to drive on a stick shift, on these roads that’s all you do. Shift, shift, and then shift again. Poor Andy. Every time anything gets dicey, I yelp. I don’t mean to, but it just comes out. Maybe I should be drinking more martinis before we get in the car. Who am I kidding. I haven’t had even one martini since we left home. I learned long ago that martinis made in a foreign country are basically terrible. So, why bother. Better to have the local beer. Which BTW, I am enjoying very much.
Well, enough for now. I am going to bed. But first one more comment. As we look down on the water, there are 4 large vessels just hanging out in the bay. We can’t figure out how or where they are going to unload their cargo. And have seen no sign of smaller boats coming to them to offload whatever product they are carrying. Or give them produce to take some other place. Very strange to say the least. We just hope we can figure it out before we leave. Tomorrow an olive oil and wine tasting tour.
Thursday, September 21, 2023
Set the alarm for 7:30 am. Wanted to have plenty of time to cook breakfast and get on the road by 9:00. Since everywhere we go is new to us, and even using Google maps, finding any new destination involves a great deal of luck. Because as you are maneuvering on steep, narrow streets, it’s very difficult to read signs and follow the little blue dot on your phone. Just trying to keep the car from stalling as you are going uphill takes all your concentration. And sure, as the navigator I should be of wonderful assistance. Not happening. First of all, the sun is always in a position to obscure the phone’s screen. Matters not at all where we are going. The sun is always on the screen. Then there is the matter of my old eyes. I need reading glasses and driving glasses. So, with two pairs of glasses on my lap, every other second switching back and forth, I am totally useless as a navigator. Really Andy should be navigating. But I am not getting behind the wheel of this car unless someone is holding a gun to my head or Andy is sitting in the passenger’s seat and I am driving him to a hospital.
Twenty years ago, it would have been a different story. But as much as I want to fight the idea, some things are getting just a bit beyond me. And luckily for everyone, I seem to know my limitations. And one of my limitations appears to be my desire to drive in a foreign country! But on to why we were out and about, to begin with.
Before leaving home, I had booked us for a Kalamata Olive Oil & Wine Tour with Traditional Lunch. For this event, we were to meet our guide at the castle in the small hill town of Androusa about 30 minutes’ drive from Kalamata. So, to make sure we arrived in time, we left an hour before we were to meet our guide. And sure enough, Google maps had no more idea of where the castle was in this town than we did. Luckily Androusa is not a large town. It’s actually a small village. So, with Andy’s keen sense of direction, we found the castle in time to not feel foolish.
Our guide was a lovely young woman (Dimitra) who has made it her life’s work to produce good quality olive oil and work as an olive oil sommelier. (An olive oil sommelier is someone who is trained to identify the different types of olive oils and their flavor profiles.)
Olive oil production has been in her family for generations. So, when she decided to make it her career too (and also her passion I might add) she went to college to study olive oil processing in the same manner as others study oenology. Oenology, derived from the Greek oînos (wine) and lógos (science), refers to the science dedicated to the study and knowledge of wines. It also studies the cultivation of the vines, the production of the wine, its ageing and packaging, its tasting, its consumption, and its marketing.
Us at the castle among the olive trees for our education about all things relevant to olive trees, growing olives, and turning them into something edible.
As we were going through our tour at the castle, there were pieces of paper with questions on them for us to answer (a treasure hunt, kinda sorta) hidden in used olive oil bottles. At one point Andy was given an olive wreath to wear on his head for answering a question correctly. Hard to see on this picture, but trust me, it was there. And as you can almost see from the picture, we were up on a hill. And of course, we were. We were at a castle after all!
Still at the castle. Up against the wall peasants. And look happy while doing so! (Which of course we were!)
After our visit to the castle our next stop was Psaroulis Winery. This winery produces wines of superior quality from its own vineyards which are in the Vasilada (village) of Messinia. It is a family-owned and operated business started by the father of the current winemaker. His nephew, who speaks very good English came down from Athens to talk to us about the production of the wine and to lead us through the wine tasting. Even though I don’t drink wine any longer, I did have to take a taste or two. And what I tasted was wonderful. Especially the merlot. (Sorry Jim!)
After our wine tasting we went back into Androusa for the olive oil tasting and traditional lunch. And boy was that fun. I learned I have rather plebian tastes when it comes to olive oil. And that I should be using various grades of olive oil for different dishes. After all, said the owner of the olive oil processing establishment, “you wouldn’t use the same wine for every dish you prepared, now would you.” And of course, she was right.
Of the two types of olives grown in this region, I was only familiar with kalamata olives and kalamata olive oil. The other olives grown in this area are the Koroneiki olives. Much smaller than the kalamata and still green when they are ready to be harvested. Kalamata olives are either dark maroon or almost black when they are ready to be stripped by hand from the branches of the kalamata olive tree.
And then it was time for lunch. And I must say, some of the dishes were OK, but none were anything I would serve to a guest. I actually felt a bit snarky at this point, because I had just been given a mini lecture on my plebian use and knowledge of olive oil, when I truly believe I could have made any of the dishes served 100% better! But being the diplomatic person you all know me to be (wink wink), I kept my big mouth shut!
After the tasting and lunch, we bid adieu to Anna and headed back to our guest house. But first a bit of provisioning at a local grocery store.
I didn’t want to go out for dinner when I had a perfectly good kitchen at my disposal. So, with some leftover Greek salad, I figured a simple fried hamburger patty would make a swell dinner.
Now, I don’t remember ever having beef ground right in front of me. When we first approached the butcher, he had a full cow carcass in front of him hanging on a hook. When I asked for ground meat, he ground us a half kilo of meat while we did our other shopping. (I should have watched the whole process, but I just couldn’t. Not while he had to take a chunk off the carcass to fulfill my request. Just too much reality for this gal.) Have yet to cook the meat but expect it to be very good. Fresh (ya think), if nothing else.
Well, that’s it for now. Think I’ll have a nice cold beer before I start dinner.
Cooking dinner was fun. Ground beef patties with just salt and pepper and Greek salad. But before I do my late-night reading in my jammies and turn out my reading lamp, I thought I might provide you with a bit of history about olive trees.
According to abea.gr “Symbol of peace, wisdom, fertility, prosperity, luck, victory. No fruit bearing tree in our land has been praised, painted, sung, as much as the olive tree. This tree, that loves the sea and the Mediterranean sun, grows even on arid and rocky soils, and survives under drought conditions and strong winds. It has accompanied the inhabitants of this land in times of both prosperity and deprivation and has left its imprint on every aspect of the cultural tradition of the Mediterranean people. In the Greek tradition, when a child is born, an olive tree is planted. The olive tree and the child will grow up together and when the child is 6 years old, the olive tree will bear its first fruit. It will grow with the family, survive through decades, and will still be there for all the coming generations to always remind us of the continuity and the evolution of life. The life expectancy of an olive tree is 300 to 600 years, yet there are olive trees more than 1,000 years old.
The history of the olive tree began around 7.000 years ago in the Mediterranean region and more precisely in the Eastern Mediterranean. It is speculated that it first appeared in Syria, as indicated by various depictions on vessels and by the multitude of myths of the people around the Mediterranean. It was Greece however, through Phoenician merchants, who brought it in the European Mediterranean area – Italy, France, Spain, Portugal – from where it spread to America and Australia.”
Friday, September 22, 2023 – Filoxenia Hotel, Monemvasia
Woke to the sound of the donkey braying and there he or she was. Our first glimpse of this handsome beast. (We had heard it braying several times before but had yet to see it.) Then when we looked outside our side window, there was a small herd of sheep coming down the hillside being “guided” by a small dog. We really are in rural Greece. Then it was packing our bags and saying good-bye to this lovely apartment. After breakfast that is. Then down the long and winding hill back towards Kalamata and a right turn towards the large city of Sparti.
Now to say this was a nice ride is like saying ice cream is an OK treat. Today’s drive to our new destination was probably the most beautiful drive we had taken in Greece so far. Greece is mainly one big mountain range. OK, there are a few flat areas, but we sure haven’t seen many of them since we arrived. But today it was saying goodbye to one large bay, go up and over the top of the world (Taygetus Mountains), and back down to the sea. This took us about 4 hours to complete a drive of about 100k. So, very slow, but with breathtaking vistas everywhere we looked. Sheer walls, deep valleys, narrow roads, you name it. Just a magnificent way to see what is undoubtedly one of the most exciting parts of visiting Greece.
We reached our hotel without any trouble. (Always a good thing!) Hard to get lost when your hotel is on the main road of a tiny village. And the view from our room of Monemvasia (the rock) is perfect.
View of “the rock” from our hotel room.Closer view. Note the fortress on top of the rock.
A quick note about the name of our hotel – Filoxenia. According to therealgreek.com, “Filoxenia has deep roots in ancient Greece, where ‘xenia’ was used to describe the virtue of showing generosity and courtesy to strangers and creating a true relationship between guest and host.
In ancient times Greece’s composition was very different to today; It was composed of numerous regions and islands, each one with different dialects and customs.
Trade was what made people from all these different regions come in contact, so ‘filoxenia’ was not just about hospitality, but mainly it was like an unspoken cultural law that preserved order amongst all these people who were simultaneously locals and strangers. Everyone could find themselves in the position of the host or the guest and even more, it was thought that any stranger might be a god under disguise, ‘testing’ the locals.
Strangers, ‘xeni’, were protected by Zeus – he was named ‘Zeus Xenios’ because of that – and they were very welcome because they also brought a lot of information about the rest of the world with them.
Thoukidides writes that Pericles mentioned how Athenians kept their city ‘open’ to all, they never turned away strangers and took pride in showing them the Athenian culture and civilization.
There were moral ‘laws’ to filoxenia: all visitors were to be shown the same hospitality and treated with the same respect, regardless of their social, economic or political status. They could never draw arms to fight each other, and that obligation concerned their offspring as well!
There were also physical obligations: they had to offer guests meals, baths and sleeping quarters. They had to offer them well wishes and gifts upon their departure- ‘Xenia gifts’.
All this meant they became bonded in friendship for life, a friendship inherited by the next generations.
Today, you can see that the Greeks have these moral and physical ‘obligations’ embedded in their culture, if not their DNA! If a visitor asks a local for simple info, it is very possible that the local might appoint himself as their tour guide, taking them around town, explaining history and mythology and treating them to a Greek coffee or ‘must-try’ local treats on the way. In the islands, it is impossible for locals to see someone walking/looking around without asking them if they’d like a treat or offering them any kind of produce they have just picked.
The Greeks are proud of their homeland and love all that it has to offer, and they really want ‘xeni’ to experience that as well.”
We actually witnessed and felt “xeni”. Everyone we encountered went out of their way to be helpful and gracious. But back to our hotel.
The Filoxenia Hotel is in the town of Monemvasia. The older part of the town and municipality is located on an island (the rock) accessed only by a causeway/tombolo (historically a drawbridge) or by boat. Its area consists mostly of a large plateau (on the other side of the rock from the town and our hotel) about 330 feet above sea level and then up to an area 980 feet wide and just over a half a mile long.
Founded in the sixth century, Monemvasia is one of the oldest continually inhabited fortified towns in Europe. The town is the site of a once-powerful medievalstorical fortress and was at one point one of the most important commercial centers in the Eastern Mediterranean. The town’s walls and many Byzantine churches remain as testaments to the town’s history.
So, tomorrow we are visiting this amazing historical treasure. But for now, it’s beer time and then the team laundress (me) must work her magic. There is simply nothing as exciting as washing underwear in a sink the size of a medium sized mixing bowl. But there is a nice drying rack right outside our deck door, so why not take advantage of it? Then a bit of relaxation because it is very hot outside with very little breeze. Then off to dinner.
Now I know there are those for whom Greek food is the be all and end all. Not me. Granted, the pastries are amazing. But one cannot live by sugar alone. When it comes to some of the meat dishes, there simply is not enough flavor for me. For example, last evening all I wanted was a simple gyro. And the meat came nicely tucked in a pita with red onion, cucumber, and tzatziki. But there was no flavor to the meat. I couldn’t even tell if the meat was beef, pork, or chicken. The tzatziki was great, but one does not live by tzatziki alone either. And some of the other traditional Greek dishes also leave much to be desired. For example – Strapatsada. Strapatsada is basically scrambled eggs with tomato sauce and feta cheese mixed in. If you are lucky, there is a bit of onion and oregano thrown in for good measure. But this is not a dish I am going to hurry home and try to duplicate. However, what I am going to try and prepare at home is Portokalopita (Traditional Greek Orange Cake with Syrup). But enough about food. It’s time for bed. Tomorrow is another day.
Saturday, September 23, 2023
After a night of shifting back and forth to keep the small top sheet and slippery bed spread equally divided over our sweaty bodies, we woke refreshed. How that could be is beyond me, but nevertheless, awake we were, and ready for another exciting day. First stop – the breakfast buffet at our hotel.
I’m not going to bore you with all the dishes that were available at this buffet. Just imagine anything and everything you could want for breakfast, and you would know exactly what was being offered. One example: for the egg portion alone. There were hard boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, and omelets. Take your choice or have all three. Amazing. After breakfast we went back to our room to get ready for today’s adventure.
First stop – the ticket office for the bus that would drive us to the other side of the rock. 1 euro each, each way. Worth every cent of the cost. And yes, euros come in cents. Coins come in 2-euro, 1-euro, and .50, .20, .10, and .05 cents. Very civilized. None of this penny stuff. And none of the ridiculous $9.99 either! People in Greece are obviously smarter than Americans because they have figured out that 9.95 euros is really 10 euros. It’s refreshing, I tell you! And simply displays good common sense.
Then hop on the small bus, drive over the cause way, and up and around the base of the rock. Then get off the bus and walk into a very bustling small village full of shops selling everything from wine to refrigerator magnets. And every type of restaurant, café, coffee bar, ice cream shop, fresh juice establishment, etc. that anyone’s taste buds could desire. And nice galleries selling quite unique and interesting items.
Beautiful wooden bowls made out of olive tree wood.
A wall hanging for our bedroom painted on olive tree wood.
The handmade box our wall hanging came in. The proprietor of the gallery where we bought both the wall hanging and the bowls told us the most enjoyment he experienced from running this gallery was making the boxes for the various items being sent all over the world. The only problem with the box, was trying to get it open. It took a chisel and hammer to get anywhere near the contents. Luckily, we had brought the bowls home in our luggage, or we would have had two such boxes to open!
Then, because it was very hot and humid, we decided climbing up to the Acropolis was completely out of the question. But walking around this lovely fortress town was most enjoyable. The next few pictures show a bit of the beauty.
Refreshment or heat stroke, take your pick!
So, after a strawberry smoothie for me and a fresh lemonade for Andy, it was a leisurely walk back through the village and back to the mainland and the quiet and cool luxury of our room. But before that, a lovely beer to quench our thirst.
Back in our room it was writing for me and reading for Andy. I completely get the concept of siesta time. It gets incredibly hot and humid between 1:00 pm and 5:00 pm. And for those of us from an area of the world that doesn’t suffer high humidity it is especially uncomfortable. So, retreating to our room becomes a pleasure not a punishment.
But after it got a bit cooler, it was off to dinner for us. And tonight, I craved Italian food. So, we found an Italian restaurant and we shared a wonderful caprese salad, then I had pasta with mushrooms and truffle oil and Andy had risotto. All 3 dishes were delicious. Then we took a stroll over the causeway to look back at the lights in the town. Last stop – ice cream. Great finish to a grand day.
PREFACE TO ALL 5 (really 4½) WEEKS OF OUR GREEK ADVENTURE
Just back from our last trip to the Cradle of Civilization – GREECE. As with every trip we take, I have documented our adventure with words and provided pictures we took along the way. And as I put my feelings into words, I don’t hold back on how I perceive a place or situation. So, if you want a glowing description of everything there is to see, eat, and experience in Greece, stop now, and find yourself a glossy brochure. Because even as I reviewed what I wrote before presenting it to you, I didn’t rewrite or change my very personal thoughts about what I was feeling or thinking at the time about any given aspect of our holiday. So, please know this is not just a glowing report of our travels. It’s what I experienced – wonderful, not so wonderful, or indifferent.
Plus, if you have ever read anything I have previously written, you know I tend to be verbose. So, come along for the ride if you want. But consider yourself warned. I tend to get caught up on a subject and assume you too would enjoy the history behind “whatever” as much as I do. So, feel free to skip ahead and just look at the pictures. But remember, context will always give you a more rounded picture of what we enjoyed or failed to appreciate along the way.
Now, if you have read up to this point, know that this post is only for week 1 of our trip. There will be 4 more opportunities to become bored stiff to follow. And all will contain this same preface. So, having read this explanation once, and you care to read more about Greece, you can skip to the meat of each post by jumping directly to Greece 2023 – Week 2, 3, 4, and 5. So, without further ado, I hope you enjoy reading about our time in Greece. But remember, this is just one person’s view of a country. And that person, who once was an intrepid traveler, is now a 79-year-old woman whose nerves of steel have diminished to nerves so cowardly as to be non-existent! But one who still loves to travel. Go figure! And as always, wishes you peace and love.
Saturday, September 9, 2023 – Camano Island
The Beatles had it right. Most weeks contain only 7 days, however, there are 8 days in a week when you are traveling. Because the day before you leave is all about getting ready for your departure. Making a list, checking it twice, adding this, re-thinking that, etc. etc. But invariably, things do not always go as planned!
First of all, our airline tickets (and I use the term “tickets” lightly) look more like an itinerary than tickets. With instructions to go online 24 hours before the flight to check in and print your boarding passes. Right! But first you must select your seats. Good luck with that. I could select seats for the first leg of our adventure (Seattle to Istanbul), but there was only 1 seat available for the second flight from Istanbul to Athens. So, no I couldn’t check in and print our boarding passes. So, I called Turkish Airlines customer service for assistance. I was told “not to worry, there would be no problem checking in and there would be seats available”. Being the worry wort that I am, I also called Skylux, the company that booked our tickets, and they said just go to check in and there would be no problem.
What both customer service people failed to tell me, was that unless you pay an additional $190 per person to choose your own seats, you get whatever seats Turkish Airlines assigns you. Had either of these people told me this, I would have been able to sleep more than 3½ hours Saturday night. But they didn’t and I tossed and turned ALL BLOODY NIGHT! (Subsequently, I learned that other airlines do the same thing now and others we met had experienced the same frustration.) So, be advised. This is the new reality. Well, until they change their ways again without any notification!
Sunday, September 10, 2023 and Monday, September 11, 2023 – Turkish Airlines and The Frogs Guest House, Athina (Athens)
We left home about 11:00 am Sunday morning. We were due at our car park by 2:00 pm. So, to provide more anxiety to my already worried self, I-405 was closed and there was a football game in Seattle starting at 1:30 pm. So, we knew traffic was going to be a mess. But we got to the car park by our appointed time, and were at the airport way before we needed to check in.
So, we waited in line, for an extra hour because our flight was delayed, with the other Business Class passengers until we were able to reach the counter and be told that we had not checked in as instructed and to just go home and forget about traveling in the 21st century! Just kidding. Everything went as smooth as silk. We hadn’t even needed to bring along any verification of purchased tickets, etc., because all the check in lady needed was a passport from each of us.
Of course, the lovely young woman I’m sure went home that evening and told her husband that there really should be an age limit or some kind of test to make sure older people were up to date on how to use apps, understood current airline rules and regulations, and were taking valium if they wanted to travel in a world where things change every 15 minutes! But I digress…..
After obtaining our boarding passes for both flights, we headed off to pay our respects to TSA. And because we were flying Business Class, we got through TSA in about 5 minutes. So, we did what all smart people do when there are 2 hours (at least) before their flight; we went in search of a beer. And lunch. In that order!
After a nice seafood lunch, we went to the Turkish Airlines lounge and sat around until it was time to go to our gate. Where again we sat around until it was time to board our plane, a Boeing 787.
Now in all our previous overseas adventures, we had always traveled steerage (economy class). But after our last adventure in 2019 to the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, and Hungary (BC – Before Covid), we decided that next time, we would go 1st class. For Turkish Airlines long flights, first class is called Business Class. And for those of you who have never had the opportunity, let me be the first to recommend going this route. Because for the first time ever, I could sleep during a flight. Well of course I could. I was fully stretched out flat, in my own little pod, having first been tucked in by a nice flight attendant. And the food was amazing! But a little bit of fun at the inflight “chef’s” expense.
It was touted that Turkish Air Business Class would have its own chef onboard. And sure enough, there was a gentleman walking around in full chef regalia. But, if you have ever flown on a commercial airplane, no matter its size, then you know that the galley on a plane is about the size of a half bath. And there ain’t no way in hell that any actual food preparation is ever going to happen in that galley. So that means, along with all the stewards and stewardesses, the “chef’s” responsibility was to look good and inspire confidence that the food will at least be palatable. And to help warm the entrées, place the entrées on a tray, and clean up after the trays are returned to the galley. If I had been more awake and in a snarky mood, I would have begged the “chef” for his recipe for the chicken entrée. But I showed remarkable restraint. You would have been very proud of me!
So, upon arrival at Istanbul, instead of being groggy and cranky, I was bright eyed and bushy tailed. Which is a good thing. Because landing in concourse B, we had to walk about 3 miles (actually, only about ½ mile) to concourse F for our flight to Athens. Istanbul airport is simply ginormous! And we had to walk from one end to the other!
But we got on our plane just fine, had a quick but fine dinner onboard, and arrived in Athens after only being in the air for 1 hour.
Then off the plane and prepared to stand in line for passport control for an hour or more. But for the first time ever in our travels, there was no one ahead of us and WE WERE THE FIRST PEOPLE TO GO THROUGH. All the nice man did was stamp our passports and we were on our way to wait for our baggage to appear. But again, there was no waiting. The bags were already on the carousel when we arrived. Then we went out the arrival doors in search of a taxi. But they were all lined up right in front of us, so we were only in line for about 3 minutes before we were tucked into the back seat of a cab and on our merry way to our guest house.
We were simply amazed at the efficiency we encountered at this airport. And our cabby had been very pleasant and got us safely to our destination without hitting another vehicle or person even though most of the way to our guest house he was driving at 130 k.
As we approached our accommodation, he told us we had chosen a great area of the city for our 5 nights in Athens. That it was a great low crime neighborhood with lots of restaurants and shops.
Marina, the young lady in charge of the small (3 room) guest house, restaurant, coffee shop, and bar was so gracious even though we hadn’t arrived until after 11:00 pm. She spent quite a bit of time with us, even at this late hour, explaining how things worked, and what and how the guest house could be of service. Then it was unpacking a bit, sitting out on our lovely large private deck, and then to bed.
We both slept well at first but were wide awake at about 3:00 am. Andy even got up for a while. After about 3 hours of tossing and turning, I finally went back to sleep. When I awoke at 9:47 am, Andy was sound asleep next to me. I showered then woke him up so that we could go to breakfast downstairs. (Breakfast hours were from 8-12. Terribly civilized.)
Tuesday, September 12, 2023
After a leisurely breakfast, we went for a walk around the area. We wanted to locate where we were to be picked up the next morning for our tour to Delphi. After locating our pickup point, we headed back to our room. But first, we had our first gelato of the trip. Then back to our room for me to write, Andy to read (and take a nap), and then some reading time for both of us before dinner.
But first, a beer at one of the outdoor tables where we are staying.
The front of our guest houseGreat beer!The “Frogs” sign and looking up from the street at the fun decoration in front of our guest house.
Then to a restaurant in the next alley for grilled calamari (fabulous) for me and incredible pizza for Mr. C. Then back to our terrace for a bit of reading before bed. A lovely first day in Athens. Well at least it was until I tried to get to sleep.
But a good night’s sleep was not in the cards for me. I was awake most of the night. Jet lag is a real thing. And Tuesday night I had what might be called “the mother of all loss of sleep jet lag experiences”. I believe I only got about 1 hour of sleep the whole darn night.
Wednesday, September 13, 2023(Delphi)
Up (please notice – I didn’t say “awake” because I hadn’t really slept) at the crack of dawn to pick up a sack breakfast and be on our way. For today’s adventure, we had received a text stating that we should be at our pickup location by 7:35 am. We got there 10 minutes early and the bus picked us up at 8:05 am. Then through Athens (population over 4 million) during rush hour to stop at several other pickup locations for additional riders. (And we think Seattle has traffic problems!)
Something I need to stress at this point. Everyone in this fine city is friendly, civil, courteous, and pleasant. If you step in front of someone and say excuse me or sorry, you always get some derivation of no problem or not to worry. Even from some of the scruffiest individuals you would assume would growl at you rather than offer you a civil retort. Nope. Doesn’t happen. Everyone seems to be polite. But back to our Delphi One Day from Athens with Pickup and Lunch tour.
According to history.com (and I paraphrase) “Delphi was an ancient religious sanctuary dedicated to the Greek god Apollo. Developed in the 8th century B.C., the sanctuary was home to the Oracle of Delphi and the princess Pythis who was famed throughout the ancient world for divining the future and therefore consulted before any and all major undertakings.
It was also the home of the Pythian Games, the second most important games in Greece after the Olympics. Delphi declined with the rise of Christianity and was ultimately buried under the site of a new village until the late 1800s. Located about six miles from the Gulf of Corinth in the territory of Phoics, Delphi is situated between the two towering rocks of Mount Parnassus known as the Phaidriades (Shining) Rocks.
The site contains the remains of the sanctuary of Apollo, the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia — meaning, “Athena who is before the temple (of Apollo)” — and various other buildings, most of which were intended for sports, such as the gymnasium used for exercise and learning.
When visitors approached Delphi, the first structure they saw was the sanctuary of Athena. This sanctuary contained the most characteristic monument at Delphi: Tholos, a circular building with a conical roof supported by a ring of outer columns.
Visitors would then walk along the Sacred Way, a path to the sanctuary of Apollo that was lined with treasuries and votive monuments. Given that Delphi was a pan-Hellenic sanctuary, it was not controlled by any one Greek city-state and instead was a sanctuary for all Greeks. The individual city-states constructed the treasuries as offerings to Apollo and to show off their power and wealth.
The central and most important part of Delphi was the temple of Apollo, where Pythia delivered her prophetic words in the adyton, a separate, restricted room at the rear. The temple of Apollo sat atop a large terrace supported by a polygonal wall.
The Sacred Way also led to the theatre of Delphi above the temple and the stadium (for athletic contests) further up. Delphi also contained settlements and cemeteries, which were built outside and around the two sanctuaries.
Greeks considered Delphi the center (or navel) of the world.
This sacred stone represented the “navel” of the world.
According to Greek mythology, Zeus sent out two eagles, one to the east and the other to the west, to find the navel of the world. The eagles met at the future site of Delphi. Zeus marked the spot with a sacred stone called the omphalos (meaning navel), which was later held at the sanctuary of Apollo. Greeks believed the site was originally sacred and belonged to Gaea, or Mother Earth, and was guarded by Gaea’s serpent child, Python. Apollo killed Python and founded his oracle there.
According to legend, natives of the island of Crete, accompanied by Apollo in the guise of a dolphin, arrived at the port of Delphi (Kirrha) and built the god’s sanctuary.”
The stadium
From the stadium looking down on the sanctuary of Apollo.
Pictures inside the Delphi Museum.
This “navel” was inside the museum.
One of the elaborate statues in the museum.
Although the tour got off to a rocky start (the bus was late getting to our stop and the time going through the narrow streets of Athens) the tour itself was a pleasure. We had an excellent tour guide, the scenery along the way was spectacular, and our fellow travelers were civil and friendly. And the lunch that was selected for us was delicious, but way too much food for this gal. But the beer was great and frosty cold. The lunch was so substantial that our dinner that evening consisted of 2 scoops of gelato each. Then back to our room to read a bit. And for me, an early to bed having taken a Tylenol PM to make sure I slept the whole night through.
Thursday, September 14, 2023(The Acropolis)
According to whc.unesco.org. “The Acropolis of Athens and its monuments are universal symbols of the classical spirit and civilization and form the greatest architectural and artistic complex bequeathed by Greek Antiquity to the world. In the second half of the fifth century bc, Athens, following the victory against the Persians and the establishment of democracy, took a leading position amongst the other city-states of the ancient world. In the age that followed, as thought and art flourished, an exceptional group of artists put into effect the ambitious plans of Athenian statesman Pericles and, under the inspired guidance of the sculptor Pheidias, transformed the rocky hill into a unique monument of thought and the arts. The most important monuments were built during that time: the Parthenon, built by Ictinus, the Erechtheon, the Propylaea, the monumental entrance to the Acropolis, designed by Mnesicles and the small temple Athena Nike.”
But before we visit this amazing wonder of the ancient world, a bit of reality about some of the problems of our modern world: Slept like the dead. Good thing too, because today things did not go as planned. Oh, we got a good enough start, but we always forget that taking public transportation (in this case Metro, the underground trains) in a foreign city means figuring out:
1) the location of the nearest underground station (and in this case, also the above ground trains running to other large cities).
2) how to buy a ticket
3) how to use the ticket
4) how to find the right platform
5) which side of the tracks you need
6) how to transfer to a different line and which way to your destination
7) and then once you are at the right destination, which set of stairs to use to get where you need to be
Well, we made it to where we thought we should be, gave our names to the tour leaders and found that they did not have our names listed. I even checked their handwritten lists. We were not on the lists, so we assumed we were at the wrong place.
Turns out after much checking, going to what we thought was the booking office, we were in the right place at the right time to begin with. For whatever reason, our names were not on their handwritten list. So, no guided walking tour of the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. Out $244.80 and told no way to get a refund. Well, we’ll just see about that! I plan to provide Trip Adviser with the following information:
We were at the appointed place on time. I gave the 2 ladies and one young man our names and even checked the handwritten lists myself. At which point we left thinking this couldn’t possibly be our tour. Wrong! It was our group.
Just before 11:00 am we went back to the meeting place and were approached by 2 women from tour groups asking if we were looking for something. We told them our predicament and asked if we could join the group for the museum part of the tour. They did some checking, asked if I remembered what the 2 ladies and 1 young man looked like, and told us to wait at the museum entrance for the 11:30 am tour booking for the museum. We got there 25 minutes early and never saw a group that had these 3 people in it. So, we gave up, bought tickets for the museum, and thanks to Rick Steves and his comments in our guidebook, had a marvelous time touring the museum on our own.
Please enjoy the pictures of some of our favorite statues etc. in the Acropolis Museum.
Supposedly Apolloon the leftAndy with his new carI love the folds on this garment.What’s left of a throne. The Acropolis from the Acropolis MuseumAndy on the museum terrace with a view of one of the other 7 hills of Athens.Another view of the Acropolis
At 2:00 pm we decided we had seen what we wanted to see, and that a nice cold beer would make everything better. So, we headed back to the Psyrri neighborhood where we were staying to have a bite at the local Turkish restaurant. And even though we may not know what we are doing the first-time round, we can learn. We caught the Metro, and traversed the many levels, line change, entrances and exits like seasoned pros. And soon we were back in Psyrri and ordering a well-deserved meal.
Since ancient times, the Psyrri neighborhood was populated by artisans and you could once find many craftsmen’s shops belonging to potters, sculptors, tailors, etc. In many ways, this tradition continues today, and you can still see many small shops and boutiques selling handmade objects or accessories, as well as art galleries displaying the works of contemporary artists.
For a very long time, Psyrri was not a trendy area. It was mainly a place where people lived and worked, so it did not offer any particular attraction. During the first years following the War of Independence, many people moved to Athens from the countryside and from the islands, and this area became their new home.
This now colorful and vibrant neighborhood received a facelift before the Olympic Games in 2004 and is now considered “gentrified”. Filled with fashionable bars, hip restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife, Psyrri is a fun area to explore by day or by night.
Granted, you won’t find museums or ancient monuments to visit while you are in this area, but Psyrri certainly has a lot of sights that attract hundreds of visitors.
For us, Psyrri’s most striking feature is that it truly is a real open-air street art gallery. Covered walls, store and house facades, parking lots and everything in between. Graffiti is everywhere in Psyrri. From colorful murals covering an entire facade to small doodles, you will find it all. While some have no artistic value, others convey a message or adorn the walls with a sense of beauty. And of utmost importance – WE LOVE IT HERE!
After our tall beers and some wonderful Turkish food, we came back to our room to relax, read, write, and do a bit of research for tomorrow’s fun filled adventure. We are going to see the sights from the open-air top level of a Hop On Hop Off bus. We have used these buses before and have always enjoyed the ride. So, if all goes well, we will be able to find one of the stops and our printed tickets will be valid. After today’s fiasco, anything is possible. But regardless, we are loving our time in Athens. Well, that’s all for now. It is cooling off nicely and I think I’ll go join Andy on our private balcony while we wait until we are hungry enough to even consider dinner. And as far as weather goes, it’s been warm, but not enough to cause us any inconvenience. And our room is air-conditioned.
After hanging around our room for a while, we decided to head out at about 8 o’clock for dinner. Since we had eaten a late lunch, we decided a couple appetizers would be perfect. And since we had dined at the Turkish restaurant for lunch and been told there would be live music that evening, and Andy was craving saganaki anyway, we returned there for dinner. The appetizers we ordered (saganaki, tzatziki, and cheese croquettes) were OK, but they were not as good as we had in Turkey and not as good as I can make at home. So, that was a bit disappointing. What wasn’t disappointing however, was the live music, the ambience, the people watching, the dancing, and the general joy de vie.
The music consisted of a drum and bass track, a live keyboard player/singer, a live bouzouki player/singer, and a live lead singer. The bouzouki player and lead singer were fabulous. The keyboard player was OK, but then I’m kind of spoiled when it comes to keyboard players. But the overall effect was of a fun and musically talented group.
When we got there, and after the first song we heard, we clapped for the group. We were the only ones clapping. But after that, others joined in, and the musicians seemed to be very pleased and grateful for us showing others the way to show respect and curtesy to any musician or group of musicians who are playing good live music well. And several songs later, they played the theme song from the movie Zorba the Greek. Well, that brought out the dancers. Right there on the street, where occasional cars, small trucks, and motorcycles seemed to think they had a right to the street too! But first I need to set the stage a bit.
It is not at all unusual, on very narrow side streets and alleys, for there to be dining tables on both sides of the street or alley. So, waiters and the dining public tend to feel they have first rights to the area. Cars, etc. are mainly just an inconvenience that must be dealt with. So, when a few people decided to participate in the circular line dance popularized by the Zorba soundtrack, and I associate with the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding, everyone was clapping and enjoying the show. It was truly a magical moment to be even a small part of that scene. People of all walks of life (foreigners, visitors like us, children, waiters, etc.) sharing a special time on a lovely September evening.
At about 9:30 pm, with people waiting for tables, we decided to give up our spot and head back to our room. What a grand experience that I hope I will remember for a very long time to come. Greece is just a fabulous country to visit.
Friday, September 15, 2023(The National Archaeological Museum)
Woke up after kind of a restless night for both of us. But we had plans for today and wanted to get going at a reasonable time. So, at about 10:00 am we were out the door and off to where we knew was the closest Hop On Hop Off point. We just missed a bus and the next one didn’t come for about 45 minutes. (They are supposed to come every 15 minutes. But in the crazy traffic in Athens, I’m surprised they can get around as quickly as they do.) So, we waited and waited, and finally one arrived. Completely full and for several stops we both were standing. When we got to the stop for the Acropolis, we finally got seats and we could relax on the covered upper level until we could get off at the stop for the National Archaeological Museum. Our destination for today.
But fate was not with us, because even though the driver verbally named the stop, there wasn’t one and therefore we missed our chance to escape. So, we got off at the next stop, luckily only a few blocks away, and hoofed our way to the museum.
Now this is one of the most prestigious archaeological museums in the world and houses some of the most important artifacts from a variety of archaeological locations around Greece from prehistory to late antiquity. And worth every tired bone in our feet, legs, and lower back.
Helmet made of bone. The origin of piggy banks?I’m a little tea pot short and stout…..Love the smile!
But knowing our limitations, after about 3 hours, we were out the massive doors and headed back to catch yet another crowded Hop On Hop Off bus. At least we got seats. But this bus did not have a cover, so we sweated through 3 stops until we were finally released just a few blocks from our guest house. But first a beer! Then back for Andy to read and me to catch up on my trip report. But now it’s time for dinner. So, to be continued.
This evening we were smart enough to ask the lovely young lady in the bar, guest house reception area, coffee shop, breakfast café, cab reservations, directions to Metro, etc. (you name it, they can help you) for the name of a great restaurant in the area. She directed us, literally with written instructions, to Karamanlidika. Which turns out to be affordable and served amazing food. With an “on the house” tiny plate of pastrami and cheese and an after dinner “on the house” small plate of yogurt topped with a sweetened topping containing carrot. What? Something that delicious mainly made with carrots. Can’t be. But our server assured us that the orange stuff in the marmalade like concoction was indeed the lowly carrot.
And our Greek salad and entrées had been fabulous. I had kefke (large meatballs) and Andy a ground steak (beef and lamb) that neither of us could finish. And we hadn’t even had lunch. Amazing food. And as it turned out, the food was Turkish rather than Greek. And from the Cappadocia region of Turkey. One of our favorite places on earth. Never heard of Cappadocia? Look it up. You won’t be disappointed.
Then back to the guest house to pack for a 9:00 am departure from this amazing guest house and the city of Athens. Except for all the people, cars, motorbikes, buses, and trucks of every shape and style, this would be a perfect place to live.
Saturday, September 16, 2023 – Anavalos Hotel – Kiveri
With a little help from my friends (back to the Beatles again), Marina at our guest house on Friday morning had ordered a taxicab for us for 9:00 am Saturday morning. We left this wonderful establishment with mixed feelings. We were eager to see new and exciting parts of Greece and to leave this busy city behind. But it was a bit sad to say goodbye to the wonderful people at the guest house. They were so helpful and kind to not only us, but every person with whom they came in contact. They had a plaque by the bottom of the stairs up to our room that read “May the next pandemic be love”. That pretty much says it all about this place. Everything was earth friendly, from the bamboo straws to the sources of the food they served. So, we were sad to leave, and they seemed sad to see us go.
But promptly at 9:00 am our cab arrived. I would have hugged everyone goodbye, but I had been feeling a cold coming on. Scratchy throat and a bit listless. (I blamed the lethargy on the heat and residual jet lag.) When the cabby asked where we wanted to be dropped off at the airport, we told him the arrival hall. His response – which one? Our paperwork only said that a man with a sign would be waiting for us in the arrival hall. Well, that was not enough for our cabby, so he decided he was going to get this straightened out for us. So, he called our car rental place, and got instructions for how to drop us off at the rental location. This saved us about 30 euros and much frustration. Andy figured that the instructions to meet in the arrival hall were probably a generic statement that appeared on every printed reservation.
So, like I said, with a little help from our friends (this time our taxi driver), we were all signed in and on our way in our brand-new Audi. Stick shift and all. I was actually amazed that they didn’t ask us if we even knew how to drive a a manual transmission. They must have considered our ages and assumed that we probably learned to drive on a stick shift car. And they would have been correct. But that was long ago and far away! Things have changed dramatically. This car tells you when it’s time to manually shift gears. And you really don’t have to remember to turn your lights on or off. This car does it for you automatically. We noticed this first when we went through a tunnel. Andy was looking for the lights lever, and the lights were already on. And you should hear the fuss the car makes when you forget to buckle your seat belt. And God help you if you inadvertently lock your steering wheel. We had to ask for help with that one. Thus, the consequence of Andy not having buckled up and the car alarm going ballistic when we started rolling down the road. You’d have thought we had just committed an egregious offence. But it’s all in the learning process. And all this fun just on the first day with this car. I can’t wait until later when we take the car up hill and down. (Actually, yes, I can!)
But on the roads, the signage (so far) has been marvelous. We couldn’t have gone wrong unless we had tried to miss a turn. And one of the many features of our drive today was crossing the Corinth Canal.
According to theculturetrip.com (and I paraphrase) “The Corinth Canal is a waterway that crosses the narrow isthmus of Corinth to link the Gulf of Corinth to the Saronic Gulf. As such, the canal separates the Greek mainland from the Peloponnese, turning it into an island. The Corinth Canal is an important navigational route which once allowed ships to enter the Aegean Sea. Dug through the isthmus at sea level, the canal is 6.4 k long with a width of only 25 meters. Impossible for modern ships to go through, the canal has now lost any significant economic importance it once had. The canal, though executed in the late 19th century, had been a 2000-year-old dream. Before its construction, ships in the Aegean Sea that wanted to cross to the Adriatic or anchor in Corinth, a rich shipping city, had to circle the Peloponnese Peninsula, which would prolong their journey an extra 185 nautical miles.
In the 1830s, the newly appointed governor of Greece after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, was the first to reconsider the idea of the canal. However, at an estimated cost of 40 million French francs, the project was too expensive for the newly established state. It was only in 1869 that the Parliament authorized the government to allow a private company to build the Canal of Corinth. Work began in 1882, but the Austrian company’s budget was insufficient for the task. So, the project was paused, with it restarting in 1890 by a Greek company with a capital of five million francs. This time, the job was completed, and the canal was used for the first time on October 28, 1893.”
Andy had mapped our route so well, and had all the details in his head, that we arrived early at our hotel. And what a place this is! Absolutely beautiful. A gorgeous room with a perfect view of Argolida Bay and across the bay the city of Naplio. Below our room is a beautiful swimming pool and further down the hill a short path down to the water if you fancy a dip in the salty Argolic Gulf.
View from our room of the pool and the sea.
Across the water is the town of Nafplio.
Our room upper left.Lounge chairs by the pool.Not an unhappy guy contemplating a swim.
We then found our way around the small village of Kiveri and to a lovely fish restaurant with only 6 or 7 wrong turns. And the fried calamari was fabulous and the setting could not have been more attractive. We were on a high shaded patio with the water basically lapping at the sea wall just below us.
Then back to our room for Andy to take a swim and me to do some writing. My throat is still sore, but with no other symptoms. A little bit tired, but I think that is mainly from the heat.
Then take a nap in our comfy lounge chairs on our deck and off to dinner. Great Greek food and then a bit of a read and an early to bed. This is the life!
