Wednesday, September 10, 2025 – Waterwheel RV Park and Campground – Chiloquin, Oregon

Well, sometimes it isn’t raining when you break camp, and then sometimes your poor spouse who does the outside work like dumping the black and grey water, undoing the freshwater hose, unhooking the electricity, etc. etc. gets soaked. But that was not the case this morning. It was actually sunny and warm. 

So, off we went.

Now, there is a reason why our camp was called “Mountain Gate”. Because as soon as we left camp it was, up, up, up and into the Siskiyou Mountains. And what a scenic drive we had again today. And then it was time for a break. So, we stopped at a rest stop for lunch. As we were sitting in the trailer enjoying our sandwich, the sky decided to dump on us. Pouring down rain and hail. Yes, hail!

And yes, that is hail on the grass in the first picture. And as you can see, the rain/hailstorm was a downpour. A good reason to sit for a bit and let the storm pass over before heading off.

We waited for it to stop for a few minutes before we once again headed north. But in just a few miles, the rain had all but stopped (for the time) and we were able to enjoy the amazing countryside.

Our run today was beautiful.  That is the only way to describe I-5 to Weed, California where we turned off onto SH 97. And then all the way to Chiloquin, there was something lovely to capture our attention. Going around Upper Klamath Lake was just grand, although driving through rain was not the ideal way to enjoy the ride. But by the time we got into camp, the rain had stopped. So, setting up camp without rain was a blessing.

Then I spent a bunch of time getting ready to serve spaghetti, salad, and garlic bread to the 6 of us.

Our campground is quite small. But the sites are flat and some backup to the Williamson River. Very nice.

After dinner it was back to our trailer (we had dinner in T&P’s trailer because they had room for all 6 of us) for me to write up today’s drive and to get yet another early to bed. I sleep more when we are in our trailer than ever at home. Somehow, my body just lets me know that there are not any pressing things that must be done. That basically it’s just fine if I relax and take it easy.      

Thursday, September 11, 2025 – Waterwheel RV Park and Campground – Chiloquin, Oregon

After a quiet morning, breakfast dishes but a distant memory, and the truck gassed up, we headed for Crater Lake National Park.

We had been to Crater Lake before, but it had been at least 25 years. So, the awe and majesty of the park left us breathless once again. Even before you go through the park gate, the canyon of Annie Creek is a wonder unto itself.

The walls of Annie Creek Canyon are primarily made of volcanic materials, including columnar scoria (cinder – a hardened, frothy volcanic rock) and volcanic. These formations are the result of Mount Mazama’s catastrophic eruption and the subsequent geological processes. 

A lovely waterfall in the Annie Creek Canyon.

Atop the scoria, layers of petrified volcanic ash and buff dacite pumice can be found. These deposits are remnants of the massive eruption of Mount Mazama approximately 7,700 years ago.

The canyon also contains interesting volcanic spires, particularly along the southern portion. These formations, known as fossil fumaroles, were created when hot gases escaped through the pumice deposits, cementing the ash and making it more resistant to erosion. Annie Creek has since eroded the softer surrounding pumice, leaving the spires behind. All this even before you go through the National Park gate. Amazing. Then it’s into the park you go. And unlike most state or national parks, we drove right up to the entrance station. No line. Unbelievable.

And then it’s up, up, up a very windy but well-maintained road. And through beautiful forests.

Crater Lake National Park features four main forest zones dominated by different coniferous trees: Ponderosa Pine at lower elevations, transitioning to Lodgepole Pine higher up, then Mountain Hemlock around 6,000 feet, and finally Whitebark Pine in open woodlands at the highest elevations. Other conifers include Douglas Fir, White Fir, Western White Pine, and Alpine Fir. Some deciduous trees and shrubs are also found in moist areas and the underbrush.

And then you get your first glimpse of this magnificent natural lake. Unlike many lakes, there are no inlets or outlets, making Crater Lake one of the purest water lakes in the world. At 1,943 feet, Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States and one of the deepest in the world. It is also one of the snowiest places in America, often getting over 40 feet of snow annually. A few pictures of this beautiful lake.

This upthrust in Crater Lake is called The Phantom Ship. Those spikes aren’t all trees. They are rock.

It is truly a magnificent natural wonder. And we feel blessed to have been able to see it in fairly decent weather. It wasn’t sunny and bright, but neither was it pouring down rain or too cold to be outside. As the old saying goes “you pays your money and takes your chances” and we got lucky.

Just outside the park entrance, the Annie Creek Restaurant (and gift shop) magically appeared. And since it was after 2:00 pm, we were hungry. Just as we were seated, T&P and J&M appeared. So, table for 6, please. And I must say the Bacon, Blue cheese, Bison burger Andy and I shared was one of the best burgers I ever had the pleasure of sinking my teeth into. The meat was thick and cooked to perfection. And the onion rings were plentiful and marvelous.

Then back to camp after topping off the gas tank and making a few, short, exploration side trips.

Once in camp reality reared its ugly head. Time to do laundry. So, on that happy note I will leave you to strip the sheets off the bed and count my quarters to see if I have enough.

After the sheets were safely back on our bed, it was time for dinner in Tim and Phyllis’s trailer. Wonderful ribs that Tim had prepared and had spent the day in a crock pot, along with mashed potatoes, risotto, and fresh veggies.

After dinner it was back to our trailer to read until the words became blurry and my pillow was calling me so loudly, I was afraid it might wake up our neighbors.

Another fabulous day in Oregon.

Friday, September 12, 2025 – Bend Sisters Garden RV Resort, Bend, Oregon

We had a leisurely start to our day, because we didn’t have all that far to go. So, at 11:00ish, we pulled out of the Waterwheel RV Park and back on to 97 going north. This is a very interesting stretch of road because at one point there is only one slight bend (about 10 degrees) in the road for almost 20 miles. You could practically take your hands off the wheel and take a nap if there weren’t other vehicles on the road to take into consideration. And except for a slight rise when you get just outside Bend, there is very little change in elevation the entire way from Chiloquin to Bend. Lots of trees along the way, and the area does not appear heavily forested.

After going through Bend, it’s a short drive until we take the exit to start our ride west on 20. And, as was not our experience the last couple of times we were in the area, it was lovely driving through Bend because of the new and very improved 4 lane road.

Last year when we were here with Todd and Cindy, it was a total mess. Construction all along the way through Bend. Now it’s smooth sailing. And the turn off to Sisters has also experienced wonderful new road improvements. Where there used to be lights, they have been replaced with traffic circles. So, smooth sailing all the way to our camp. And what a camp it is. Beautiful grounds including a man-made lake. And our sites are lovely.

After an enjoyable afternoon of reading it was time for dinner. I served guacamole, salsa, and chips for happy hour. Then Jim served a fantastic pollo al crema over rice. And for dessert, Phyllis brought us each, a mini-ice-cream bar. Just so you know, we do not go hungry when we camp. In fact, all of our waistlines are expanding at a very scarry rate! But we are on vacation. So, let the fun continue.

Then off to our own rigs to honker down for the night. Rain was predicted, so all chairs and little tables ran for cover. Assisted of course by their respective owners.

At one point during the night the rain was beating on our roof. But only for a short time. But loud enough to wake me up. Ah, the joys of a real roof over your head rather than a canvas tent. But I put my time in when I was younger with wet tents, moist sleeping bags, wet dogs, grumpy wet kids, and cooking under a tarp. But those memories remain some of my fondest. But at our ages, roughing it means having to use ice cube trays in our trailer instead of having a fridge/freezer combination at home with an ice maker.

Saturday, September 13, 2025 – Bend Sisters Garden RV Resort, Bend, Oregon

Today was very special. We were invited for lunch at our dear friend’s Tim and Susie’s camping site on the Metolius River. So, after a lazy morning we headed west on 20 through Sisters, then continued northwest on 20 until we turned right on to 14 after a few miles.

On 14 we drove north through Camp Sherman to the Smiling River campground. And followed the camp road until we found Tim, Susie, and Timber, their Brittany Setter waiting for us.

After saying hello and catching up a bit, we took a short walk along the river to see where they had happy hour every evening (unless it was raining of course). Then back to sit and talk about our adventures and hear what was happening to mutual friends. (And why I didn’t take any pictures of this lovely couple and their fabulous camping spot is beyond my comprehension. But sometimes I just get lost in the moment because I am having such a wonderful time. This was one of those times.)

Then lunch was served. A wonderful, curried chicken salad (I asked for the recipe), fresh bread with honey butter, crackers and a wonderful cheese, and chocolate for dessert. Yum, Yum, YUM!

After saying goodbye to our friends, we drove back and did some grocery shopping at the Ray’s grocery store in Sisters, (Nice store BTW.) Then back to camp to sit around and decide where to have dinner.

We ended up in Sisters at the Three Creeks Brewing Company for pizza.

After dinner it was back to camp, and since it was dark, we decided to call it a day. And what a nice day it had been.

As I was drifting off to sleep, I remembered to say thank you to whichever deity might be paying attention, for all the blessings I have been given throughout my life. And right at the top were our dear friends we are currently traveling with, and our dear friends we were lucky enough to visit today.

Sunday, September 14, 2025 – Peach Beach Resort, Goldendale, Washington

After a tasty (if I do say so myself) Patti MacMuffin (toasted English muffin, meat of choice (today’s meat – link sausage), sliced sharp cheddar cheese, and a fried egg, we leisurely broke camp because today was once again a short travel day on a road we knew very well. Our destination being Peach Beach, one of our favorite places to park our trailer. 

But, while I’m on the subject of traveling pulling a trailer or driving any other type of RV, I must tell those of you who have never had the pleasure, that it’s simply not at all like driving a car. The entire time you are behind the wheel you must remain vigilant. No playing lookie lookie, no getting into any kind of serious conversation with your passengers, no eating a messy sandwich and dreaming of tonight’s steak dinner etc. etc. Not every driver out there knows or remembers that if you are pulling a trailer or driving a large rig, it takes much longer to stop or get out of the way of your foolishness. And believe me, there are lots of foolish drivers out there. And it is never more apparent than when you are hauling or commander of a very large rig.

Another aspect to be aware of when you see or are behind a RV, is that the driver may not know the location of their next stop. Oh, they know it by name, but not by ever having been there before. So, if they slow down, it may be because they will be turning soon. They just don’t know exactly where that turn will present itself.

So, when we consider how far to drive in one day, we try to keep it to around 150 miles. Just because it is a totally different experience when you are in a vehicle that takes every bit of your attention every mile of the way. So, the shorter the drive, the better. That doesn’t always happen, but it is our goal. That and switching drivers whenever the driver becomes the least bit fatigued. Which is happening increasingly as we fight our way into the golden years. But enough about traveling etiquette, and on to the trip itself.

When we left the beautiful Bend Sisters Garden RV Resort, we headed east to catch 97. Then north through Madris and right at the 97/14 junction where our road (14) brought us down to the Columbia River in Biggs, Oregon.

Then a short crossing of the mighty Columbia and a quick right into the entrance to both Maryhill SP and Peach Beach.

I happened to be driving at the time and was met by the camp hostess who not only checked us in but presented us with 2 wonderful peaches. How nice is that?

Then after getting all set up, all 6 of us sat in our comfy camp chairs between T&P’s trailer and our trailer to enjoy the afternoon. As the dinner hour approached, Phyllis brought out warm crostini topped with brie and jelly for us to enjoy along with our “it’s 5 o’clock somewhere” libation.

Then it was time for Jim to grill a marinated tri-tip, to go along with baked potatoes (Jim) and peas salad that I had prepared earlier in the day.

After dinner I provided the gang with cookies and chocolate.

So, as you can imagine, another fine meal.

But by the time we had consumed dessert, my body was letting me know that I had had enough fun for one day.

So, back to our cozy little trailer to read until the sentences failed to make any sense at all. I was first in bed, but after about 10 seconds of tossing and turning, I was gone for the night. Andy tells me he was right behind me but far be it from me to know if that actually happened.

Another wonderful day in paradise!

Monday, September 15, 2025 – Peach Beach Resort, Goldendale, Washington

Today was another fun day, especially because we were going to have lunch with daughter Ursala and her husband Soroush. Yeah!

So, after a quiet morning of reading and writing, we left to meet the kids in The Dalles. When we arrived, we were thrilled to find out that both Nika and Jaleh (our granddaughters) were free to join us. Nika has her own dance studio and Jaleh has various interests including working part time at the White Salmon hospital as a clinical dietitian. It was just wonderful being able to spend time with daughter Ursala and family. We simply don’t see any of our kids as much as we would like. Not when one lives in Salt Lake City, 2 in Keiser, Oregon, and one in White Salmon, WA. But they all lead happy lives. And what parents could want more than that for their children. Of course, I miss seeing them more often. But being as busy as we are, they might never find us at home anyway. So, time together is precious.

From left to right, Nika taking the selfie, Soroush, Ursala, me, Andy, and Jaleh.

After saying goodbye, we did some provisioning and gassed up the truck. Then back to camp to sit outside our trailer and read until it was time to fix dinner.

Jim had brined, then marinated, the pork tenderloin I had brought along to BBQ. I made mac and cheese and cut up some heirloom tomatoes and a cucumber we had purchased at a local fruit stand. Phyllis warmed some bread, so another great meal was had by the 6 of us.

By the time we finished our picnic dinner, it was dark. So, to our individual rigs we hastened. To wash our dishes and hunker down for the night. What a great time we’ve had again while camping at Peach Beach. And as always, I can’t wait to come back here again.

Tuesday, September 16, Ellensburg KOA Journey, Ellensburg, Washington

Since we had a fairly short run today, we dawdled through breakfast and hitching up. Our aim – 11:00 am, the parks official checkout time. Plus, we simply didn’t want to leave this lovely park any sooner than necessary.

But at the stroke of 11:03, we were driving out of this wonderful campground, past one of the beautiful peach orchards, and turning right onto 97 for the short uphill pull away from the Columbia until we meet highway 14 heading east and west. Then left onto highway 14 for about 100 feet. And another quick right back onto 97 for   the long uphill drive to Goldendale.

After Goldendale, we rolled through semi forested areas, some agriculture (but not much) and miles of seeing nothing but dessert terrain and occasional trees lining the Satus Creek after we start down into the Yakima Valley.

But along the way there is an obligatory stop that we always make. And that stop is for a bit of Greek food at St. John’s Monastery (Greek Orthodox) and Bakery.

The Holy Monastery of St. John the Forerunner was founded in 1995, when local Doctor Gerald Timmer donated his 48-acre property to the Greek Orthodox Diocese of San Francisco for the foundation of a women’s monastic community.  
Geronta Ephraim, a priest-monk and former abbot from Holy Mount Athos, Greece, was contacted to help establish the monastery in Washington. (“Geronta” in Greek means an “Elder” or “Abbot”.) Already the spiritual father/elder of 11 monasteries in Greece, 1989 he began the work of establishing monasteries in North America.  There are now 17 such monasteries in North America. These communities have prayer for the world as their primary profession, and then to provide spiritual guidance to the faithful and help preserve the Holy Traditions of the Church through exemplary Christian life and devotion to God.

In their shop you can expect to find fabulous Greek food, (our favorite is their gyros with extra tzatziki sauce). But all the baked goods are delicious. You can also find, jams, jellies, candy, Christian icons, and fabulous espresso drinks. (Andy never takes a pass on their coffee drinks. They are always amazing!)

After our brief lunch, it was back in the car for me to take a short nap (luckily Andy was driving at the time) and to arrive at our destination about 2:30 pm.

We decided not to unhook since we would only be here for one night. But while Andy was attaching the electric and water hoses, I decided to turn on the air conditioning. After a short 7 minutes or so, the electricity went off. Then it was try to fix the problem.

Now, if you don’t know us well, you might be surprised to learn that we are the least mechanical couple you will probably ever meet. And if it had not been for Jim, we would still be trying to replace fuses in the trailer’s electrical panel with no success. In fact, both of us had gotten down on the floor to have a go at putting 2 new fuses in their respective receptacles. When, had we known what the heck we were doing, we would have just reset the main breaker switch, and the problem would have been immediately resolved.

But thank heaven Jim knew what to do. So, now Jim is on our floor and has taken the facing panel off (2 screws) and flipped the main switch and retrieved the fuses we both dropped in trying to get them properly seated in their receptacles. And now, we have electricity again. So, after everything was back on again, Andy decided to turn on the air conditioner. And after about 5 minutes, the same thing happened. But at least now he knew how to fix it. And not to turn the air conditioner on.

While we were discussing what could be the problem, both Tim and Jim thought it might be that the air conditioner coils and filters were probably coated with dirt.

So, there will be no air conditioner for the rest of the trip. But a thorough cleaning of the air conditioner added to the list of items to be looked at when we take the trailer in to be winterized. Who knew we should clean our air conditioner? Oh well. Live and learn.

After all this excitement, we decided to go out for Mexican food. Since both T&P and A&P decided not to unhook our trailers since we were only spending one night in Ellensburg, Jim ferried us to and from a nearby Mexican restaurant.

By the time we all arrived safely back in camp, it was time for my tired old body to call time out! So, after reading the same page in my book about 4 times, I took my evening pills, brushed my fangs, changed into my pajamas and after tossing and turning for about 10 seconds, I spent a good 10 hours in the land of nod.  

Wednesday, September 17, 2025 – Icicle River RV Resort, Leavenworth, Washington  

All together now, all together now……left to right, J&M, T&P, and A&P

Because we were still hitched up, I took my own sweet time getting dressed and getting breakfast on the table. So much so that we were 15 minutes late getting out of camp. Since most of the campground was already empty, the camp police did not come by and ticket us or charge us or in any way push us to hurry up. In fact, I don’t think they would have noticed if we had stayed a couple of hours. No nickel and dimming us in this campground.

However, for our next campground, we would have had to pay a $25 fee to arrive early. We chose instead to take our own sweet time getting to Leavenworth. So, instead of heading right to camp, we went into Wenatchee, and I made sandwiches as we sat under a shade tree at the Wenatchee Confluence SP.

After lunch, while we were driving north to Leavenworth, we were a bit apprehensive. Wenatchee had clear skies. But over Leavenworth there was what looked like one huge white cloud. Wildfire smoke. And the closer we got to our destination, the more we could smell smoke in the air. In fact, while Andy was sitting outside after we had gotten all set up, a cinder landed on his arm. And T&P’s picnic tablecloth was blessed with ash that had floated into our campground to say hello.

Every hour or so, a helicopter would fly fairly low directly over our RVs. It felt like we were either in a war zone or on the set of Mash.

After spending a leisurely late afternoon reading and napping, we enjoyed a wonderful chili and cornbread dinner provided by T&P.

Then, after a bit of dessert and after dinner libation, it was once again an early to bed for me.

I must state that I rarely get home from a trailer trip, tired. I sleep longer in our trailer than I ever do at home. But I do know that my bath scale is just gleefully waiting to once again prove that fresh air does not necessarily equate with weight loss. Quite to the contrary, in fact. Because on trailer trips we always eat as if calories don’t count when we’re on vacation. Now of course we know that isn’t true. But at our ages we have fooled ourselves for so long now that old habits are hard to break.

But there will be a reckoning the moment we set foot in our home. No more Cheetos or Fritos until our next trip. More salads and less desserts. Reality will once again raise its ugly head. (And people wonder why we travel so much. We blame it all on Cheetos and Fritos.)

Another wonderful day on the road.

Thursday, September 18, 2025 – Icicle River RV Resort, Leavenworth, Washington 

After a great night’s sleep, we woke up to, what seemed like, less smoke in the air. And for me, the knowledge that we would be seeing our dear friend Linda this morning.

Linda and I have been the dearest of friends now for almost 45 years. And since she lives in Leavenworth, we don’t see each other nearly as much as either of us would like. But when we do see each other, it’s like we have never been apart.

And this morning T&P were serving all of us, including Linda, brunch. A yummy breakfast casserole and English muffins. I contributed a bowl of fresh peaches and blueberries to go with homemade granola. And one lone bran muffin and my favorite breakfast bread to round out the menu.

After brunch Linda headed back to her home since the next day, she and two friends were flying from SeaTac to spend a week in the Big Apple (NY City.)  So, she had things to do to get her home ready for another great adventure.

5 good friends who have known each other for a very long time. Left to right – Mr. C. Mrs. C. Linda, Margo, and Jim.

After Linda left, I climbed in the trailer to get caught up on this travel report. Next thing I know, I’m in my favorite camp chair and trying not to fall asleep. (I’m getting quite good at napping. All it takes is a comfy chair, and a really good book, and I’m sound asleep. One of the joys of being not only retired but old.)

And since we were going out for dinner, I had the whole afternoon to be lazy. BTW, I’m getting quite good at being lazy.

About 4:30 pm we left for the bustling berg which calls itself Leavenworth. We had reservations for 6 at Larch. An Italian restaurant. We each ordered a different dish, and they were all very good. So, I highly recommend this dining establishment next time you are lucky enough to be in this Bavarian village.

Then back to camp for ice cream bars and for those so inclined, an after-dinner tipple.

But as soon as it was dark, my pillow started calling me. Since it was only 8:00, I decided to ignore the pillow’s siren call, and read for about an hour. But eventually I felt that my pillow had the right idea. So, off to bed I went, knowing full well that it was the last night in the trailer. And the last night’s sleep without our kitty Max slammed up against me with his constant demands to pet me, pet me, pet me. But I would not trade that silly kitty or his brother Miles for the world. Our boys are a constant reminder that we aren’t only responsible for ourselves. But that other critters (human and not) depend on us for their good life too. If only certain politicians and their slimy compatriots understood that we are all in this together, and to feel truly free and fulfilled, we all need to help others find the same contentment.

But for the life of me, I can’t understand why some supposedly intelligent people can’t understand that we all do better when we all do better. How hard is that to grasp? And what do they lose or have taken away from them by helping others? What they do lose, is being able to look in a mirror and think to themselves – I’m proud of who I am, and what I’ve done, and how I’ve helped. And if there is a better feeling than doing the right thing, I have yet to figure out what that could possibly be.         

Friday, September 19, 2025 – home

Left Leavenworth at 10:15 am. Heading west was easy. But it was amazing to see how much traffic was on highway 2 coming east. Especially this early in the day. I would not have traded places with any of those poor folk just trying to get where they were going. What a mess!

Along the way we stopped at our favorite highway 2 drive-in (Alpen) in Startup. Shared a burger and fries and chocolate milkshake.

Then back on the road to get to our trailer storage facility, unload all the perishables, along with our toiletries, computers, and most importantly our pillows.

Then after being home for a couple of hours, it was to get back in a vehicle, and drive to Oak Harbor for Andy’s gig with Herding Kats at Orlando’s BBQ.

By the time we were heading home, at 10:30 pm, we were both very tired. We basically kept a running commentary going the whole way home to keep each other awake. I’m still not sure who was actually driving, but whoever was behind the wheel managed to get us home safely.

Then to bed and had anyone been witness to our sleep that night, they might have mistaken us for two snoring logs. I honestly don’t think I even rolled over once during the 10 hours I slept. And the same goes for Mr. C.

So, what did I learn or rediscover on this trip:

We live in a beautiful part of the world

Camping on the Columbia River is heavenly

The Oregon coast is magical

Redwood trees are huge and magnificent

San Francisco is a really cool city to visit

The wineries in the Napa Valley are so prevalent that none are flourishing the way they were 20 years ago. Napa Valley is home to more than 400 wineries, with some sources citing over 500, making it one of the most concentrated wine regions in California. And the wine produced there, some of the best and most expensive. So, according to our hostess at Regusci Winery, sales are way down. Not only at their winery, but throughout the entire valley.

The Bend and Sisters, Oregon area is a wonderful place to spend several days

Crater Lake is a magnificent natural wonder     

Peach Beach is still one of our favorite places to camp

Fresh peaches are a gift from the Gods

FROM NOW ON, STAY LONGER IN ONE PLACE. DO LESS DRIVING.

And the best thing of all – being reminded by all the wonderful places we were lucky enough to visit, how well and truly blessed we are. And how we wish everyone could make that same statement.

I hope you have enjoyed riding along on yet another adventure. And as always – peace and love to all.

Wednesday, September 3, 2025 – Giant Redwood RV Park, Meyers Flat, California

Tim and Phyliss’s trailer on the left. Jim and Margo’s rig on our right. Fabulous neighbors, BTW.

After a leisurely breakfast and knowing that it wouldn’t be an excruciatingly long day on the road, we left Harris Beach SP at about 11:15 am. Our next stop was Thomas H. Kuchel visitor center just south of Orick, California for lunch and bathroom break.

After lunch I wanted to take over the wheel, so with Andy navigating us through semi-remembered territory, we arrived at our campground at about 3:45 pm. I must say, even though much of our travel today was through marine onshore flow and therefore if there was water out there, it was hidden from view, what we were able to see was amazing. And driving through redwood habitat is an absolute treat.

And since you were wondering if redwood trees and sequoias are one and the same, the answer is no. They are, however, in the same family of trees and considered cousins. The primary difference is that coast redwoods are the world’s tallest trees, while giant sequoias are the world’s largest trees by volume. Coast redwoods, typically found in fog-prone coastal areas, have tall, narrow trunks with scalelike foliage and grow faster, whereas giant sequoias grow at higher elevations in the Sierra Nevada, have broader, more massive trunks, and possess egg-sized cones and juniper-like needles.

Giant sequoias are older than redwoods. The oldest known giant sequoia is around 3,200 years old, while the oldest known coastal redwood has been around for around 2,500 years.

After setting up camp, I did the prep work for tonight’s meal. Swedish meatballs served over mashed potatoes. Phyllis contributed salad and Jim and Margo, sliced tomatoes and cucumber. A very nice dinner enjoyed by all.

After dinner we sat around and chatted until we were ready to head in the trailer for me to write up today’s adventure, and Mr. C. to read.

Eventually we both decided we had enjoyed enough fun for one day and slid under our covers and were asleep almost immediately. Another fun day in our trailer.

Thursday, September 4, 2025 – Giant Redwood RV Park, Meyers Flat, California

Today we broke our fast with Eggs Benedict provided by J&M. Wow, talk about roughing it! Not! Fantastic!

After letting our breakfast settle a bit, we decided to take a drive through the Avenue of Giants. Along the way we stopped and took a short 7/10 of a mile walk through these amazing behemoths in Miranda, Humboldt Redwoods State Park. And as luck would have it, today was sunny and warm. So, no jackets were required. But not too warm either.

That is some burl! Redwood trees develop burls as a natural stress response to injuries or infections, serving as a protective, wound-healing mechanism and a storehouse for unsprouted bud tissue. These knobby growths act like a protective scar, which contains the tree’s genetic code and can sprout to form new, cloned trees if the parent tree is damaged or falls.

 

Next stop, gas and a brief bit of grocery shopping at a remarkably nice (for being in the middle of nowhere) (but expensive) grocery store in Miranda. Since we all were a bit warm when we got back to camp, beer was a requirement upon arrival.

After a very pleasant late afternoon of sitting outside reading (all 6 of us), it was time for dinner. T&P provided Turkey Tetrazzini, while our offering was green salad with blue cheese dressing and garlic bread.

Then to top off the meal, T&P offered us a special treat. Vin Santo and biscotti, which is a pairing made in heaven. In case you are unfamiliar with Vin Santo, it is an Italian dessert wine, predominantly from Tuscany. It is made from grapes that are dried before pressing to concentrate their sugars, then aged for several years in small wooden barrels. Vin Santo is known for its amber color and complex flavors of honey, dried fruit, and nuts. Typically, a sweet wine, it can also be made in dry styles and is traditionally served with biscotti, though it pairs well with various desserts and cheeses.

And for the uninitiated, biscotti is a type of twice-baked Italian cookie, named for the Latin word “bis-coctus” meaning “twice baked”. This distinctive double-baking process gives biscotti its signature dry, hard, and crunchy texture, making it perfect for dipping in coffee, tea, or sweet wine. While traditionally made with flour, eggs, almonds, and sugar, modern variations include ingredients like chocolate chips, dried fruits, and citrus zest to create a variety of flavors.

After thoroughly enjoying the Vin Santo and biscotti, we continued to sit outside until, believe it or not, it cooled off enough to send us into our respective rigs to get warm.

Then we read for a while and finally – lights out. Another wonderful day in sunny California.       

Friday, September 5, 2025 – Giant Redwood RV Park, Meyers Flat, California

After a great night’s sleep, we both woke eager to see what today would bring. But first, time to do laundry. So, with clothes happily being bathed in soapy water, I fixed breakfast.

After the breakfast dishes were done, we retrieved our clothes from the dryer and waited to find out when everyone was ready to go exploring again.

At about 11:00 am we headed north on the Avenue of Giants. Our aim today was the Humboldt Redwoods State Park Visitor’s Center. And what a nice center it turned out to be. We were all very impressed and glad that Phyllis had suggested we make this a priority.

After leaving the center we drove further north to Founders Grove where we took a one-half mile, 20-minute (for those who can walk fast, that is) level walk through an ancient forest. This nature trail provided us with a glimpse into the past and a look into one of the greatest forests on earth.

Not only were there many standing trees, but there were also many fallen with the base revealing the magnitude of the root system. (Which BTW is very shallow.) As trees get older, some can no longer withstand wind and rain. These trees give up their spot in the sun and fall to the forest floor.

The Dyerville Giant (see picture below), which stood for as long as 1600 years, was taller, larger, and older than any other tree around it. It just looked like it had started as a seedling in a far distant past. And it was lovely to see this very old tree, because very few of these ancient relics remain.

Then back to camp for a “charcuterie” lunch. After that, reading, writing, and arithmetic. (Just kidding about arithmetic.) (Well almost, as Andy checks our credit card purchases every day to make certain we really are where we think we are!)

Then off to dinner at The Brass Rail in Redway, California for burgers and beer. Great burgers and great beer.

After returning to our trailer, I proceeded inside to get warm and read. Andy decided to share some wine outside with Jim and Margo.

Then in bed for both of us at about 10:00 pm. I love the redwoods and would not have missed these three nights and 2 days of revisiting the area for anything.

And tomorrow we leave for our Napa and San Francisco excursions. This is such a fun trip.

Saturday, September 6, 2025 – Petaluma RV Resort, Petaluma, California

After an unhurried breakfast and on the road again at 11:00 am, we were once again heading south on 101. There is just something about 101 that is unique to other highways. It provides beautiful vistas every stretch of the way.

On one previous trip heading south, we left US 101 at Leggett, to drive west on the start of California Pacific Coast highway 1. Stretching from the beautiful redwood forests of northern California, all the way to southern California, this coastal highway winds along some of the most spectacular ocean views in the U.S. The highway contains countless examples of the many intrinsic qualities that make a highway a National Scenic Byway. Qualities like perfect views of ocean waves breaking on rocky shorelines and cliffs, dozens of historical landmarks like Spanish Missions and Spanish settlements, and limitless opportunities to participate in every kind of outdoor recreation imaginable. A traveler would have to take numerous other byways spread across the nation to view all the qualities contained on just this one byway.

But there are drawbacks to cutting over to highway 1 that anyone who gets nauseous while riding on exceedingly twisty-turny roads or pulling a trailer can attest to. This stretch of road which ends at the ocean, is not an easy or quick ride. Basically, there is nowhere on highway 1 that gets you from point “a” to point ”b” quickly. But if you have never gone this route, it certainly should be added to your travel “bucket list”.

Anyway, we did not cut over to highway 1. We stayed on 101 until we reached Petaluma and our 3-night stay in the Napa and San Francisco area.

One thing you should know about this campground. It’s HUGE. And noisy with children running amuck on every kind of mobile contrivance known to man! And many unsupervised. So, parking our rigs and trying desperately not to run over a kid while doing so, made a “safe arrival drink” absolutely necessary.

After our beer on T&P’s patio, it was time for some serious drinking and a fine dinner of leftover tetrazzini, Swedish meatballs, and a warm Italian loaf of bread. For dessert, cookies and a chocolate bar.

Then back to our trailer for reading and early to bed for me. Tomorrow – wine tasting.

Sunday, September 7, 2025 – Petaluma RV Resort, Petaluma, California

After a great night’s sleep, we woke up to another sunny day. After breakfast and getting ready for our day’s adventure, I wrote for a while then sat outside our trailer until it was time to head for Napa Valley. Our destination today, Regusci Winery.

If you ever find yourself in the Napa Valley region, and are looking for the best cabs, best experience, greatest winemakers, most knowledgeable, friendliest staff, and best pours in the valley, Regusci is the place for you.

Since Andy is a wine club member, (no charge to wine club members) with everyone’s agreement, he booked a tasting experience here for our group of 6. What a great decision. The wines were simply marvelous, and several bottles came back to camp with us.

A glimpse at the wineries garden.

From another angle.

Tasting wine on our semi-shaded patio.

Still tasting wine. (Tim and Phyllis at the far bench.)

Emigrating to California from Italy more than a hundred years ago, Gaetano Regusci chose Stags Leap to put down roots for his family. Today, the fifth generation is being introduced to the ranch he acquired in the 1930s.

The grounds are spectacular with a thriving vegetable garden. The wines are excellent. The tasting experience was perfect with just enough conversation and attentiveness from our hostess Desirey.  

We absolutely loved our experience at Regusci. There was no rush, and we were welcome to stay as long as we wanted. And as we were leaving we were encouraged to take, free of charge, fresh veggies from their gardens that were beautifully presented at their veggie stand.

After finishing at Regusci, we headed to dinner at Scala in nearby Napa. Wonderful meal. Then back to camp to sit outside and just mellow after a wonderful day in California wine country. Tomorrow – San Francisco – HERE WE COME.     

Monday, September 8, 2025 – Petaluma RV Resort, Petaluma, California

The plan was to leave camp at 10:30 am to catch the 11:50 am ferry in Larkspur to carry us across the San Francisco Bay to the ferry terminal Embarcadero.

View of SF as we approach “the city by the bay”.

Tim on the left, Jim, and the birthday girl Phyllis back right in the ferry on our way to SF.

On our left as we were on our way – San Quentin, officially the San Quentin Rehabilitation Center, California’s oldest correctional facility. Established in 1852, located in Marin County. It is currently undergoing a major transformation into a model rehabilitation and re-entry center, aiming to prioritize education, healing, and community reintegration over warehousing. This transformation includes the creation of a new facility for individuals nearing release, inspired by the Norwegian correctional model, with a focus on vocational training, academic programs, and services to reduce recidivism.

The clock tower. Part of the Ferry Building Marketplace.

Our ferry standing by to take us back to the car park.

The Embarcadero is an amazing stretch along the bay is a boulevard that runs all along the waterfront from the Bay Bridge, past the Ferry Building, and down to Pier 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf.

A number of San Francisco attractions are sprinkled along this street and it’s a popular place for strolling.

First, we visited the iconic Ferry Building Marketplace. After a brief stop at a wine bar, and purchases that simply had to be made, we headed to the Waterbar Restaurant to celebrate Phyliss’s 73^rd birthday. She wanted fresh oysters for her birthday, and that’s exactly what she got! We were lucky enough to score an outside table for six on a covered patio. Beautiful view of the bay and the Bay Bridge which connects San Francisco and Oakland. It could not have been a more pleasant temperature. Perfect for dining in style.

Let’s see, should we order 24 raw oysters, or 48? Oh, what the heck, make it 48!

After our amazing meal, we headed back to the ferry terminal for a couple more purchases and our ferry boat trip back to Larkspur. We sat on the back deck with our jackets on and although we had been warned that there would be some water spray, that just didn’t happen.

After we got off the ferry we headed back to Petaluma and to Safeway for a bit of provisioning. Then back to camp for us to mellow out and catch up on our email, Facebook, my travel log, and each to our own books. It had been a long day, and even after we had planned to get together after a brief pause, all three parties decided simultaneously to remain in our respective rigs for quiet time. There is only so much fun our senior bodies can accommodate in one day. Luckily, we all know when enough is enough!

Tuesday, September 9, 2025 – Mountain Gate RV Park, Redding, California

Woke up to cloudy weather with impending showers likely. And of course, it stayed dry until it was time to hitch up and head out to our next destination. Andy got very wet. But by the time I had secured the inside of the trailer and was needed for the hitching part of the process, I didn’t even need a jacket.

But now we were on our way to Redding. And what a pleasurable ride we had today.  

Lots of new (or possibly completely forgotten) countryside.

First, we headed south on 101, then east on highway 116, then south on Lakeville Road (along the Petaluma marsh), left and east on Highway 37, which crossed another marsh (the Nape-Sonoma marches), to Vallejo and I-80, which is the main road from San Francisco to Sacramento. In Vacaville we went north on I-505 which took us into the Sacramento River Valley where we merged onto I-5. At this point we were seeing a lot of agriculture. Amond tree groves, pistachio nut trees, rice fields, etc.

Our only stops along the way were for lunch at a rest stop, and another rest stop to change drivers, and our final stop for gas.

When we arrived at camp, we decided unhitching would work fine on our site. And since this was only a one-night stop and we didn’t need the truck for any provisioning or sightseeing, if it was once again raining the next morning, Andy’s life would be a whole lot easier.  

Then a lovely chili dinner was provided by J&M. Then for me, another early to bed.

END OF PART 2 – STAY TUNED FOR PART 3

Monday, August 25, 2025 – Home to Skamokawa Vista Park

Left home to hook up the trailer at 10:30 am. All was fine until we had to wait to turn into the trailer storage area because of road work on East Camano Drive.  And then after we hooked up the trailer, we once again had to wait for stopped cars to proceed forward before we could get back on the road.

So, after waiting, what seemed like hours but was just minutes, we were finally free to be on our way. I need to mention here that I truly hate road construction. But I am savvy enough to realize that potholes, road widenings, etc. do not magically happen by themselves. That road work is a necessary evil. But that realization doesn’t make any inconvenience caused by “road work ahead” any easier to take. But once back on track, everything went smoothly (relatively speaking) until we crept through the huge road construction around Jblm. (Joint Based Lewis and McCord.)

Then of course, we had to stop for lunch at Red Robin outside Olympia. Decision time. Do we continue west to Montesano and then south taking the scenic route to camp. Or do we go back on to I-5 where a sign had warned of road work for the next 11 miles (you know how I feel about road work). So, of course, I wanted to take our beloved route to Longbeach. We wouldn’t actually be going to Longbeach, but turning left on highway 4, and east to Skamokawa.

So, we didn’t arrive until about 5:30 to hook up with Jim and Margo and Tim and Phyllis, our travel partners, for this entire adventure. Jim immediately made me a martini and Andy a Manhattan. (And just so you wondered, M&M’s really do smooth out the road.)

Then Phyllis fed us wonderful enchiladas and salad, while I provided queso dip and tortilla chips. And for dessert peanut butter cookies and oatmeal raisin cookies. Then it was early to bed for us.

Tuesday, August 26^, 2025 – Skamokawa Vista Park

Both of us slept very well and long. We were both pretty fatigued from gigs (Andy) and trip preparation (both of us). But what we woke up to this morning was amazing. 

And frankly, words simply do not do justice to this setting. We are backed up to the Columbia River and being entertained by ocean going ships cruising up and down river after going to or leaving various ports along the way to Portland. And fortunately, because of the various depths (from constant dredging) of the river, ships float by the Washington shore very close to this county park.

Magnificent! And this morning, there was a barge that landed just downstream from us that appeared to be picking up full garbage containers and huge empty water containers and taking them away. Fascinating to watch.

And then of course there are the smaller crafts that come and go just for our pleasure. We definitely want to come here again. But suffice it to say, if you only appreciate big towns, museums, fancy restaurants, movie theaters, and luxury accommodations, etc. etc., you will find this area terribly boring. For us, it’s a marvelous place to watch the world go by.

Andy went on two small walks and a longer walk on a nature path, so he got his exercise for the day. My only physical movement today came from going in and out of the trailer and turning the pages of my book. And no, I feel no guilt in spending my day trying mightily to resemble a sloth!

Wednesday, August 27, 2025 – Harborview RV Park, Garibaldi, Oregon

Well, I would love to report that the sun was shining when we got up around 8:00 am, and that there was no precipitation in sight, but that would be a lie. Granted, we didn’t hook up in a downpour. But there was evidence of either heavy mist or light rain on our trailer sky lights and our picnic table. But being the seasoned trailer hooker uppers that we are, we didn’t even put on raincoats.

Then it was out of camp by 11:00 am and on our way to the Astoria Bridge, into the great state of Oregon, and south on 101 to Garibaldi. It took us about 2½ hours, and all three parties arrived safe and sound.

We had been through Garibaldi numerous times in the past but had never camped in the town. But here we are parked just across the road from the waterfront. And of course, since we are right next to the water, and it’s so cloudy we can sometimes not even see the water, it’s bloody chilly. So, after having a small lunch in our trailer we decided to join the others outside. Of course, I had started the day in short pants and sandals. It is still August after all! But, after about a half hour, I changed into long pants and shoes and socks. And I put the heat on in the trailer.

As I’ve gotten older, I have absolutely no patience with being cold. And even changing to warmer clothes didn’t work. So, I am now writing up this trip report happily getting warm in the trailer as the others sit outside and freeze. But enough about my regret at not remembering to bring my thermal underwear!

Today’s drive was magnificent. If you have never driven along the Washington side of the Columbia River from Longview to Ilwaco, then you need to do so before too much time passes. It’s a lovely ride. And then when you cross over the river and into Astoria and head south following 101 along the Oregon coast, you soon find yourself leaving all cares behind you and just concentrating on all the beauty this part of the world has to offer. I truly find the west coast of Oregon one of the most beautiful places on earth.

After setting up camp, and a light lunch, we took our camp chairs over to join the others for an afternoon of adding more clothes layer by layer. It wasn’t raining but marine onshore clouds made it very chilly. Finally, I had gotten to the point of either going in the trailer and turning on the heat or suffering the chances of frostbite. OK, it wasn’t that bad, but darn, it’s still August, and we have the God given right to expect to be able to sit outside this time of year.

When it was time for dinner, we all assembled in J & M’s bus and were served a wonderful taco dinner.

Then back to our trailer for a short read and an early to bed for me.

Thursday, August 28, 2025 – Harborview RV Park, Garibaldi, Oregon

We woke up to foggy weather but no rain. After showering and breakfast, I decided to read the paper (Seattle Times) online. Why do I bother? I am so tired of reading about more gun deaths, bombings in Gaza, what fresh hell Trump has thought up for America, etc. etc., that I’m going to give reading the paper a pass for a few days.

After breakfast, we decided to do a bit of provisioning. So, first gas, then groceries at Fred Meyer, and an obligatory visit to Blue Herron for some really not necessary, but who can refuse, cheese purchases. And a hot dog from their food truck.

Then back to camp to be terribly lazy all afternoon. I even managed to take a lovely 1-hour nap. Then outside in my comfy camp chair to read and converse with our buddies while Andy took a walk at Bar View Jetty County Park.

Tonight, Jim made paella in honor of Tim and Phyllis’s 21^st wedding anniversary. What a great way to celebrate. And of course, the paella was fantastic.

Then off to bed at a decent hour because tomorrow we move on to Coos Bay.    

Friday, August 29, 2025 – Bay Point Landing, Coos Bay, Oregon

Luckily, we woke up at a decent hour and were just about to leave when Phyllis let us know they would not be heading out for a while. On the way to camp over sometimes very bumpy road, a spring for one of the trailer wheels had severed. Luckily for Tim, he not only had a spare part but Jim to help him install the new spring. But at this point Andy and I couldn’t do a damn thing to help. So, we decided to go ahead and if they couldn’t get into camp until late, we would have dinner ready for them whenever they arrived.

Now I must mention how much we love the Oregon coast. Even though we were on the road for over 4 hours, which BTW is a long time when towing a trailer, the drive could not have been more scenic. And even though we have traveled this same route many times, it never gets old. But back to dinner plans.

Jim had previously made a 6:00 pm dinner reservation for the 6 of us at the Blue Herron in Coos Bay. But if they couldn’t be in camp and set up by then, we would cancel our reservation, and it would be spaghetti and salad at Chez Carr. (The mobile Chez Carr that is.)

But at 4:45 pm they pulled into camp. So, at 5:35 pm, we set out for dinner in town.

And what a fine meal we had. The Blue Herron serves German specialties and a fine selection of seafood entrees.

Then back to camp to sit in our camp chairs and watch the sun set over North Spit. An absolutely lovely way to end the day.

Saturday, August 30, 2025 – Bay Point Landing, Coos Bay, Oregon

We woke to onshore flow, but it soon burned off. Even though our site doesn’t back right up to Coos Bay, we can see it very well from our back window.

After breakfast we decided to go into town for gas and a few grocery items, and then a ride out onto North Spit.

The North Spit of Coos Bay is a strip of land between the Pacific Ocean and the waters of Coos Bay. You can only access the spit by car or truck along a man-made causeway, by boat, or train. (The non-passenger train is used by the huge lumber mills to move lumber.)

In essence, the spit is basically an industrialized, semi-wild peninsula, and a huge protected, endangered species habitat. Made up of open sand dunes, forested islands, and wetlands, the North Spit of Coos Bay is at the southernmost end of a series of sand dunes extending along the Oregon coastline from Florence to Coos Bay. There are 10 miles of hiking/horse trails, sand-driving roads, an undeveloped staging area and miles of beach waiting for exploration. The North Spit boat launch offers a full-size boat ramp, ample trailer parking, restrooms, and running water.

After returning to camp, we read for a while and visited with our friends until it was time for me to pull dinner together. First appetizers, then grilled marinated flank steak, mac and cheese, and salad provided by Tim and Phyllis.

After cleaning up after dinner, it was back to Tim and Phyllis’s to sit outside, enjoy their propane firepit, and watch another beautiful sunset while eating freshly baked snickerdoodles. Life simply does not get better than this!

Sunday, August 31, 2025 – Bay Point Landing, Coos Bay, Oregon

This morning, we had breakfast (blueberry pancakes and bacon) provided by Tim and Phyllis. Wow – what a treat to have someone else fix breakfast.

After breakfast we decided to go exploring. So, with our trusty Oregon Atlas in hand, off we went in search of Cape Arago. Which we found. But then, where next? How about taking Seven Devils Road, cutting over to Beaver Road, and right onto Whiskey Run Road to check out Seven Devils State Rec. Site, then Whiskey Run Beach. After that we went further south to check out Randolf and the Bandon Dunes Golf Resort.

Along the way we met some new friends with four legs. Now, I have met interesting critters on hikes and walks along various types of waterways. Horses, dogs, cats on leashes, crabs out for a stroll, shore birds of various persuasions, etc. etc. But until today, I had never met adolescent goats off, and then on leashes returning to a parking lot after having been for a nice walk on an ocean beach. I just had to have a picture and find out from the goat’s owners, why they were taking their young goats for a walk. Didn’t they have anything better to do with their time? Well, I was soon to learn that these darling critters were being groomed to be pack goats. Yet another thing I had never witnessed before. I’ve witnessed pack horses, donkeys, mules, etc. But pack goats? Proves you are never too old to learn something new. But boy oh boy were these goats cute. I could have gladly taken one home with me.

At this point we decided it was time to head north again, so where our road intersected with 101, we turned north and proceeded along this glorious highway until we hit Beaver Hill Road and followed it until it dead-ended at Seven Devils Road.

At this point we had come full circle.  

Then after turning right, we found ourselves, in just a few miles, going through Charleston where we stopped for fish and chips at the Monkey Business Restaurant Express. (Great fish and chips BTW. And the coleslaw was delicious.)

Then back to camp for me to write up today’s trip report and Andy to sit outside and read.

After I finished writing, we joined the others basking in the sun and moving our chairs to avoid too much wind, until it was time to leave for dinner.

Dinner this evening was at the Seven Devils Brewery and Public House in Coos Bay. Food comments ranged from very good, to “shouldn’t there be clams in clam chowder”? But the beer was darned good.

Then on the way home we gassed up and back in camp it was over to T. & P’s site to sit around their propane fire pit until we all decided to call it a day. And for me, I would call it a really nice day. Enough time spent exploring, socializing, writing, and reading. My definition of heaven.

Monday, September 1, (Labor Day) 2025 – Harris Beach State Park, Brookings, Oregon

This was an easy morning. We had such a short run to Brookings, that we piddled around until 11:00 am, by which time we needed to have vacated our site. The RV people even sent us a “reminder” that the checkout time was not just a recommendation. (They didn’t state it that way. But the inference was there.) Never mind that we were already on the road. So, obviously, we were not singled out. We were just one of the many rigs that were slated to be once again either going up or driving down 101.

Once on the road, we were again reminded of why we absolutely love the Oregon coast. And this stretch of the route between Coos Bay and Brookings is probably our favorite. It is simply beautiful everywhere you look. Lots of places to pull over and just enjoy the many haystacks and sea stacks that line the coast. And along with all the sandy beaches and the winding roads that take us through lovely, forested areas inland from the many headlands and capes, there is always something incredibly beautiful to capture our attention.

For a break, all three parties pulled into the same area for lunch. Then out came the chairs and little tables. Sandwiches, chips, pepperoni sticks, beef jerky, hummus and peapods, and cookies were shared around. And all the sunshine we could have asked for. Not to mention the sound of the ocean waves gently braking on the beach. Perfection.

Then back on the road headed for our next destination.

We were a little concerned that the others would not love Harris Beach as much as we do. But our sites, although a bit tight for our traveling companions, are beautiful. And far enough away from 101 so that there is no road noise at all.

Road noise is always a consideration when traveling in the summer months. In the winter, it is no problem because our closed windows usually hide any noise made by motorcycles or trucks and trailers employing air brakes.

But in the summer, when we tend to have multiple windows open, road noise can be very distressing.

But now we are in camp. And sitting outside for a before dinner libation. And for dinner, pulled pork in a flour tortilla (burritos), corn and black bean salad, and guacamole and tortilla chips provided by Tim and Phyllis. Yum, yum, YUM!

After dinner the guys sat outside, and we ladies went into T & P’s trailers to do the dishes, chat, and get warm in front of their propane fireplace.

All together a lovely day in the great state of Oregon.  

Tuesday, September 2, 2025 – Harris Beach State Park, Brookings, Oregon

Since Jim was providing breakfast, we doodled around in our trailer until 10:00 am when it was time to head off to J & M’s trailer for homemade hash and toasted English muffins. Fabulous way to start the day.

Then back to the trailer for me to write and Andy to read. Next plan for the day. The guys – drive just over the California border to buy booze. (Booze is much cheaper in California than either Oregon or Washington. So, when we travel to California, we take full advantage of the lower prices.) While the “Booze Brothers” were doing their thing, we ladies hopped into Margo’s Ford Explorer for a grand visit to the teaming metropolis of Brookings to pay Fred Meyer a visit. And perhaps make short stops at other establishments that take our fancy.

When we got back to camp, I read until it was time to get-together for “over the yardarm” libations.

Then a fine spaghetti dinner at the Hobbs. And for me an early to bed. Tomorrow, the Redwoods. Yeah!

STAY TUNED FOR PART 2

Monday, June 9, 2025 – Château d’ Aviette – Rancennes, France

Just had to have a picture of the entrance to the Colmar Hotel. Such a nice way to be greeted every time we came back from yet another fun adventure.

After another wonderful breakfast, it was time to start heading Northwest from Colmar, France to our one-night stay along the border of France and Belgium before turning in our rental car in Amsterdam.

A lovely drive through farmland and through both Luxembourg (where we had lunch) and Belgium eventually making it back into France.

Along the way. And once again bicycles everywhere.

Luxembourg lookout. Here we come!

And big trucks on every major road.

When we arrived at the castle/château, there seemed to be no one around. We just parked our car and walked in like we owned the place. Finally, the owner found us and took us on a mini tour of the castle. The owner referred to this imposing structure as a castle, but it is titled a château. Whatever you want to call it, it was built in the late 18^th century, and it is a large, stately, imposing, fortified (it has a tower), luxurious, and historically significant building. What more could you ask for? 

The chateau/castle.

A couple of old Rolls Royce cars just waiting to be driven.

Lovely grounds around the chateau/castle.

After hauling our luggage up a winding wooden staircase to our room, we decided reading while sitting on the patio overlooking the river on this warm and sunny afternoon was absolutely the right thing to do. So, that’s what we did.

There was only one other couple staying at the castle. So, of course we had a delightful conversation with them as we enjoyed a late afternoon libation together. And as often happens, the subject of politics came up. We found we agreed on just about everything that is currently happening to our world. 

When it came time for dinner, we drove into the small village while they rode their bikes. We happened to meet at the same restaurant, so we decided to dine together. We thoroughly enjoyed more convivial conversation with this interesting couple as we ate a nice dinner right beside the river Meuse.

All together a very nice way to spend a sunny day in France.

After a leisurely breakfast at the castle, we packed our luggage in the car and said goodbye to the lovely couple from the Netherlands and to our host, hostess, and their baby girl. Then we asked Rhoda Scala (our trusty cell phone directions guide) to plot our course to the Avis car rental-return location at the Amsterdam Schiphol airport.

Tuesday, June 10, 2025 – Hotel Corendon Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, Badhoevedorp, Netherlands

Well, in all my life I have never seen so many trucks on any highway anywhere! Seriously, there were as many trucks as there were cars. And the backups on our route were atrocious! Especially around Brussels, the Port of Antwerp, and the Port of Rotterdam. And then we came to the exit for the airport. I told Andy the traffic we witnessed today made going to SeaTac look positively tame by comparison! It literally took us 20 minutes to go only a few blocks. But after dropping off our car, which BTW was a breeze, there were very clear signs of where to go to catch a shuttle bus which would take us to our hotel.    

When we arrived at the shuttle bus stop, there were masses of people waiting. But after a bit of time, we realized that every hotel had its own shuttle bus and ours came within 15 minutes. But a lot of people were also waiting for our hotel bus. So, all of us trying to get on the bus with our luggage would have made a great comedy routine. But we all found a place for luggage and some of us, me included, found a place to sit.

Then it was about a 7 to 8-minute ride to the hotel. Then, get off the bus, enter the hotel lobby, and get in line to check in. This also took about a 15-minute wait.

But before going up to our room, we made a reservation for dinner in the hotel’s restaurant and learned how to get a taxi for our ride into Amsterdam the next day for our visits to both the Rijks and Van Gogh museums.

Then, up to our room for me to write up today’s trip report and both of us to relax before dinner. And even though rain threatened to dump on us all day, nary a drop was shed.

After a simple dinner in the Bistro (we decided not to choose the “all you can eat buffet”) it was read our books for a while and hit the hay.

We slept OK, but pillows in this part of the world are huge and hard. And they always give you two each. So, why not make them different sizes? Nope. They are always the same size and hard as rocks! We both finally got to sleep, but I must be truthful when I say I am getting anxious to get home to my wonderful pillow. Of course, I miss Miles and Max too. I can’t wait to pet our two critters and tell them all about our travels.

Wednesday, June 11, 2025 – Hotel Corendon Amsterdam Schiphol Airport, Badhoevedorp, Netherlands

Well, that explains the horrific traffic we experienced while getting from Rancennes, France to our hotel near Schiphol Airport. There was a one-day train strike in the Netherlands yesterday which meant no one could get anywhere by train. And believe me, everyone rides the convenient and reasonably priced trains. So, of course, anyone who had counted on taking a train from Amsterdam to the airport had to be driven. And anyone who wanted to get to work, and then home again the same day, had to take their car instead of the train. What a mess! So, no wonder traffic was crazy bad everywhere yesterday. And based on the terrible traffic we experienced and not knowing that there was a reason for the huge delays at the time, we went so far as to allow an extra 45 minutes for our taxi ride this morning to make certain we were at the Rijks Museum by 10:30 am.

So, at 9:30, we were at the entrance. And because it must have been a slow day at the museum, they allowed us to enter a full hour before our reservation time. (Now, the nice folks at the museum must have seen this as a slow day, but there were still masses of people.) Everything from people even older than me, to pre-school age kidlets. And the clothing/costumes some museum attendees felt were acceptable, I could not possibly adequately describe. One young Asian woman was wearing what looked like a fancy layer cake. Not kidding. Another woman, old enough to know better, had on puffy short bloomers with short puffy sleeves to match. Good God! Have these women no clothing sense?

And tattoos! Almost everyone, young or old, had tattoos of some sort. And believe me, these folks weren’t afraid to show them off. Anyway, it was almost as exciting to watch the people as to view the amazing works of art. But a bit about the Rijks Museum before I share with you a few pictures of our favorite works of art.

The Rijksmuseum is huge and considered one of the finest art museums in the world. It functions as the national museum of the Netherlands with the mission being to honor Dutch cultural heritage. Through the beautiful neo-Gothic design, the museum showcases eight hundred years of Dutch artistic and historical achievements which define pivotal moments in art development. Since 1885 “The Night Watch” by Rembrandt continues to guard the museum halls in a position of pride while attracting millions of viewers to the pictures luring interplay of lighting effects and darkness.

Another picture of the museum. Please note that bicycles have their own lanes right through the museum. And as always, walkers beware. In some ways, bicycles are more hazardous than cars.

A few examples of the works of art we viewed.

Rembrandt’s “The Night Watch”. Notice the scaffolding in front of the picture. An art restoration expert is working on the bottom right of the picture as you will see in the next picture.

The building itself is a work of art.

Now, this is what I call a library. And yes, those books are all real and people on the bottom floor were studying from them.

I want a fireplace like this one in our home. Andy is studying the detail so he can replace our current fireplace with one just like this. Not!

I’d like this piece of furniture too.

A Van Gogh self portrait.

After a light lunch in the Rijks Museum Cafe, it was time to walk the couple of blocks to the Van Gogh Museum. What a way to spend a day. My idea of heaven, that’s for sure!

But before I show you a few pictures from the Van Gogh Museum, a bit of information about this incredible facility and about the painter himself.

The Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam houses the world’s largest collection of works by Vincent Van Gogh, including over 200 paintings, 500 drawings, and 700 letters. It also features exhibitions on 19th-century art history.

Vincent van Gogh, born in 1853, was a Dutch Post-Impressionist painter whose work, though not widely appreciated during his lifetime, became highly influential in the 20th century. He is renowned for his bold colors and dramatic brushwork, contributing to the rise of Expressionism. Van Gogh created approximately 2,100 artworks, including around 860 oil paintings, in a little over a decade. His life was marked by periods of mental instability and intense artistic activity. He died in 1890 at the age of 37, likely from a self-inflicted gunshot wound. It is believed that only one of his paintings was sold while he was still alive.

Another Van Gogh self-portrait. We were told by our guide that Van Gogh painted himself a lot because he had no money to hire a model.

Van Gogh, in his later years, tried to replicate Japanese works of art he admired.

Another self-image.

And my personal favorite. It would look so wonderful in our living room.

As you can imagine, we thoroughly enjoyed both the Rijks and Van Gogh museums. But by the time we were done with both museums and on our way back to our hotel, my feet had pretty much stopped working. Actually, I did much better on this trip than I thought I would. We did a lot of walking and standing. Much more than at home. And somehow, we both were able to keep going even if at times, the going got kind of tough. Hurray for us.

Back at the hotel we had a nice dinner at the Bistro again. Then it was time to go up to our room and for me to check in for our flight home the next day.

So, now, after typing up today’s adventure and checking in with the airlines, I read until I can no longer tell an “a” from an “o”.

I had asked the front desk people at the hotel to print our boarding passes, but I have yet to get any kind of reply. I am keeping my fingers crossed. It’s not really necessary to print your boarding passes ahead of time. But for people like me who have anxiety issues when in a foreign country and don’t know what the heck they are doing, it can cause concern.

The morning of our flight, Andy went down to the front desk and sure enough, he came back to our room with boarding passes in hand.

One thing this trip proved once again, was that most people are considerate. I had younger people give up their seats on buses for me. I had people help me with my luggage. Everyone seemed eager to help. It’s simply refreshing to experience. No one seems to assume that you are out to get them. Or in some way take advantage of them. Their readiness and openness to offer assistance is remarkable and something I would like to see happening more often in America.

Thursday, June 12, 2025 – Chez Carr

After a reasonably good night’s sleep, hard pillows and all, we both woke up ready to pack and go find us an airplane to take us home.

Our flight was scheduled to take off on June 12^th at 3:20 pm and land in Vancouver at 3:55 pm on June 12^th. Wonderful when a flight only takes 35 minutes (right!). But due to issues with the airplane’s toilets not flushing properly, the flight was delayed by about 1½ hours. But even on a 35-minute flight, it really is necessary to have toilets available.

But once on board, and in our comfy business class seats, we were in the air for only 9 hours.

One thing I must mention is that KLM got us to Europe and back to Vancouver BC with no problems. However, whoever fixes the food for KLM both in Vancouver and Amsterdam should be fired. In my estimation, at least 80% of the food was inedible. They were trying too hard. Too many ingredients they felt would impress even the most sophisticated gourmet, just didn’t work well together. So, needless to say, I was not less than impressed.

But the flight attendants were marvelous. And being able to stretch out and try to sleep was lovely. But I was getting a cold, so I couldn’t sleep on the return flight.

After we landed and collected our luggage, we caught the shuttle bus back to collect our car. In all our trips, we have never experienced an easier long term car rental experience. Jetset made it so we could not go wrong.

Then on to the border crossing which took us about 90 seconds. And home by 8:45 pm and in bed by 8:47 pm. Well, not quite, but almost.

All in all, a wonderful European getaway. Even though at times during our overseas travels I have wondered if we would make it out alive (not really, but close), I would not trade even the worst of times for just staying safety at home. Because our planet has so much to offer. And the main thing you learn when you travel, is that everyone, no matter their color, ethnicity, religious beliefs, etc. all want the same thing. People everywhere want to be able to provide for themselves and their family. They want to be treated with respect. And they want to live in peace and harmony. There are no real differences in people no matter where they happen to live or how they choose to live their lives. It’s only people’s perceptions of someone who appears different that causes all the turmoil. That’s where travel comes in.

So, do yourself a favor. Travel. Go places and see things. Learn about our fabulous world.

And on that happy note, as always, peace and love to all.

Thursday, May 29, 2025 – Basel, Switzerland to Auberge du Manoir – Chamonix, France

Well, this was the day to bid farewell to our new friends and fellow Viking travelers. And a night where neither of us slept very well. But regardless we had to disembark our boat, the Gersemi, at 9:00 am, after having left our luggage in the hallway at 8:00 am to be taken off the boat by people stronger than us. (Thank you, Viking.) When we got off the boat, there was a taxi waiting for us to take us to Basel airport. (Again, thank you Viking!) The taxi driver dropped us off at the car rental area and proceeded to wheel our luggage trolleys (that’s what they call rolling suitcases here) right to the Avis check-in desk. Then after a few signatures here and there, and more money spent, we walked only a few yards to our car. A Skoda Scala (Andy named it “road scala”.) (Later re-named “Rhoda Scala”.)

Then it was on our way to Chamonix, France.

Everything went smoothly until we hit a huge back up where we had to turn to go through Bern. Complete stop. Nothing moving. So, we decided to take a different route, and boy am I glad we did. Because the traffic coming from the other direction also headed for Bern was backed up for miles.  

So instead, we drove around Luzern (Lucerne), then on to Interlaken, then drove up a side road which took us through the town of Zwisimmen, which is home to the famous Gstaad Ski Resort. From there we descended to the town of Aigle which is on the Rhone River upstream from Lake Geneva.

A few pictures of our drive today.

Back on the autobahn we went South to Martigny. We then proceeded West over a high pass on a secondary road into France. And from there we went steeply down towards our hotel in Chamonix, Switzerland gasping at views of Mt. Blanc all along the way.

One of the more picturesque sites along the way was the abundance of little, dark wood huts located all over the hills. I later learned that long before the Swiss Alps became known as a skiing and hiking destination, ingeniously designed stilted barns sustained entire communities.

Blackened by the sun, stilted pitched-roof barns seemingly floated above the flower-strewn meadows, framed by the Matterhorn, Switzerland’s famed pyramidical peak. I also learned that the barns’ facades were festooned with weather-worn scythes, pitchforks, and even a toboggan-like contraption used to transport hay.

These centuries-old stadels (grain-storage barns) are an intrinsic part of the landscape and still dot this landlocked country’s high alpine valleys. Many are located in Zermatt, a resort town located in southern Switzerland’s Valais region, and the barns have borne witness to the monied ski and hiking destination’s humble beginnings as a farming community. Beyond their rural romanticism, these monuments to the past served a very practical purpose: to feed self-sustaining mountain communities.

The hotel Auberge du Manoir.

From our hotel.

Another view of Mr. Blanc from near our hotel.

After checking in to our hotel, we promptly went in search of dinner.

On our walk to dinner.

When we returned at about 8:30 pm, I went straight to bed. I was totally wasted. Andy steadfastly stayed awake until 9:30. 

Friday, May 30, 2025 – Chamonix, France

Well, it isn’t every day you get to see the Matterhorn and Mt. Blanc both on the same day. But that is exactly what we were lucky enough to experience today.

After a nice breakfast, we jumped in our trusty Skoda and headed up valley back toward Martigny. After going around Martigny we drove up the Rhone valley hoping to see glimpses of the Matterhorn.

Driving in the Rhone Valley.

Finally, we stopped to ask Google where we could get the best view of this magnificent peak. Google told us we needed to go to Zermatt by way of a short 3-mile train ride. Which of course, appealed to us since Zermatt is a “no car” town. So, we parked in this huge 2100 space underground parking garage. And please note, the parking spaces were basically large enough for a motorcycle, but everyone was parking their cars in them anyway. (Thank you, God, for little cars!) Then off to buy our tickets for the train ride. This could not have been easier. (I mean really, if we can figure it out, anyone with even half a brain could figure it out!) Anyway, after about a 10-minute wait, we hopped aboard the train and set off on our arduous journey. Uphill all the way and through tunnels galore.

Now before I go any further writing about today’s adventure, I want to talk a bit about tunnels. We have never driven through so many tunnels before on any of our previous world-wide adventures. There are roughly 1300 tunnels and galleries with a total length more than 2000 km to be found in Switzerland alone. And new tunnels are continuing to be built. BTW, a gallery is one of several tunnels driven sequentially and in parallel.

Now of course, we didn’t drive all the tunnels and galleries Switzerland had to offer. But just enough to be genuinely impressed. And of course, the French and Italian Alps are replete with tunnels and galleries too. But back to today’s excursion.

After we got off the train in Zermatt, we decided to try and find a view of the Matterhorn. I had assumed we would just get off the train and there it would be. Hardly. Zermatt is a booming tourist, ski resort, and mountaineering destination. But before we tried to find a viewing place, we needed sustenance, because by now it was 2:00 pm.

After a shared focaccia and a beer for me and some wine for Andy, we started walking toward the mountain through hordes of people. I was about to give up when just around the corner we came to a place that looked promising. And what a view we found. And just a perfect day. No clouds, which is quite unusual. Apparently, this amazing natural wonder likes to hide from the viewing public and is often shrouded in clouds. But not today. The God of beautiful mountains obviously understood that we had come a long way and took pity on us.

The booming town of Zermatt, Switzerland.

We found the Matterhorn!

A little closer view.

Wonderful view of the Matterhorn from the graveyard attached to the Parish Church of St, Mauritius.

So, after grinning ear to ear at each other, we decided to walk back to the train. But first gelato to help us stay cool on our way back down to the train. Because yes, it was quite warm.

So, back on the train and back in our car for the reverse trip. Nice sights along the way.

And then once again, coming into Chamonix, Mt. Blanc was out in all its glory to welcome us back safely.

Another thing to know. There are more bicycles on the roads than cars. Not really, but it seems like it. And these are narrow, windy roads. My fear was that we would come around a bend and run into a bicyclist because there is absolutely no shoulder and many with cement block walls. Crazy. And many riders without helmets. Even crazier!

But we made it back safely and without injury to ourselves or any others.

Picture from our walk to dinner.

Another view of Mt. Blanc from close to our hotel.

Once back, it was off to enjoy a fabulous caprese salad and four cheese pizza. Then a leisurely stroll back to our hotel. What a wonderful day in the Alps.

Saturday, May 31, 2025 – Chamonix, France

Today we decided to go through the Mont-Blanc tunnel into Italy and see if we could find the valley that we had loved so much on our first trip to Italy in 2000. And of course, neither of us could remember the name of the valley.

But first, some information about Mont-Blanc tunnel. The Mont Blanc Tunnel is a little over 7 miles long and costs E54.80 one way. YIKES! Connecting France and Italy, this very pricey tunnel has been dubbed “the most expensive” toll tunnel in Europe. Ya think! Holly Molly! This unique driving experience links Chamonix, France with Courmayeur, Italy.  

The road through this amazing tunnel is one of the major trans-Alpine transport routes, transporting as much as one-third of Italy’s freight to Northern Europe. So, were there lots of trucks? You bet your sweet bippy. I’d hazard a guess it was a one-to-one ratio. One truck to one car. And no bicycles. So, now we are on the other end of the tunnel, and now in Italy we headed North up a side valley.

Just a lovely road along the way.

And then road construction which looked a bit dicey. Oh well, grin and bear it!

Oh, how I wish we could park our trailer here. Of course, no such things as hookups. Not even electricity or water. Much less septic. As I was taking a picture, a lady walked past me in her bathrobe. Towel wrapped around her hair. She had obviously just taken a shower and was headed back to her trailer. Oh, the joys of roughing it!

But, oh the vistas.

Takes your breath away……..

After much uphill and winding road, we eventually reached the small commune of Bionaz where we stopped for lunch. Since we were basically at the end of the road, we turned around and decided to take the Grand St. Bernard tunnel leading to Martigny and back to Chamonix. It may sound like a quick little adventure, but we left at 11:00 am and didn’t get back to Chamonix until after 6:00 pm. You simply can’t go quickly from place to place when you are in the Alps. All the roads except for the main tunnels are slow, steep, two lanes, and very, very windy. And you are always being passed by motorcycles and slowing down for bicyclists. But this entire area is overwhelmingly picturesque. It’s like every way you look; a picture should be taken. Impossible of course, but hundreds of postcards could have been made from just our drive today.  

When we got back to our room, we decided to head out immediately for dinner. We found a nice little café and shared a warm sandwich. It was basically a thick piece of toasted country bread about 9-inches long and 4 inches wide, topped with cream cheese, thinly sliced ham, rounds of warm fresh Chevre cheese, and kalamata olives. This lovely sandwich was served with a small green salad with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and topped with different types of raisins. Amazingly delicious. And a perfect size for the two of us to share.

Then back to our room for me to write and hopefully stay awake long enough to plan tomorrow’s adventure.

All and all, another great day in the Alps. And today was amazing in the fact that we were in three different countries. France, Italy, and Switzerland. Bring it on is all I have to say!

Sunday, June 1, 2025 – Chamonix, France

After another fine breakfast we were in our car by 10:00 am. Today we were heading west out of Chamonix towards Geneva, Switzerland. We wanted to get off at Cluses but couldn’t get off there so continued to Bonneville. From there we backtracked and then drove up into the hills to the north to the town of Taninges. We then turned east and proceeded to Sixt-Fer-a-Cheval. And all along the way, steep sided mountains and many waterfalls.

Andy stopping to check out waterfalls.

Waterfalls every way you looked.

Lunch by a river.

Yeah pizza! And beer of course!

And while dining, happy rafters coming ashore.

Then back in the car and on to Cirque du Sixt-Fer- à -Cheval.

We then drove to the end of the road which brought us to the Cirque du Sixt-Fer- à -Cheval. (A cirque is a half-open steep-sided hollow at the head of a valley or on a mountainside, formed by glacial erosion.)  

The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval gets its name from the shape of its cliffs which resemble a horseshoe (fer à cheval in French). Due to the impressive height of these cliffs (6,500 feet), there are a multitude of waterfalls, the number of which varies depending on the season. In June, there are more than thirty waterfalls gushing down the cliffs. This entire area is easily accessible by car.

Very similar to the Cirque de Gavarnie in the Pyrenees, it is the most visited and most famous site of Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. This huge amphitheater of limestone closes the eastern part of the Giffre Valley, stretching over about 3 miles, with steep cliffs up to 6,500 feet. It is the largest Alpine mountain cirque.  

This was one of the most amazing places we had ever seen. If you continue past the cirque (which of course we did) up a narrow road, you can actually drive over a bridge that crosses right over the middle of this long and beautiful waterfall.

View of Cascade de Rouget from below.

Cascade de Rouget from where our car is parked.

Up close and personal with this magnificent waterfall.

The bridge over this waterfall is located about halfway up the falls. And on a truly hot day, I’m sure the mist would be thoroughly appreciated.

Downstream of the falls.

Then we turned around. (We had no choice. We were at the end of the road.)

On the way back to Chamonix, we took a side excursion hoping to get a glimpse of Lac Leman, the lake the city of Geneva, Switzerland is on. But after about 15 miles, we decided it was getting late in the afternoon and turned around. We will have to see this famous lake some other time. But what an amazing day. Beautiful vistas everywhere you looked. Then back to our room to do a bit of reading before heading out to dinner.

Tonight, we decided to have fondue. And in all the restaurants we came across, the minimum was “fondue for 2”. And the choice of fondue we ordered (there were 5 options), came with a large basket of torn bread, a small bowl of olives, 6 large (count them 6) boiled potatoes (baked potato size), a charcuterie plate that could have easily served 6, and a small bowl of cornichons.

Notice the bowl of potatoes. Really?!

We ate until we couldn’t eat even one more bite. And still there was enough meat left for a huge sandwich and potatoes that would happily feed 6 hungry adults. Ridiculous amount of food.

We had learned after ordering our first meal in Chamonix that we would have to order just one entrée to share from now on. We decided that we could always order more, but ordering less, after the fact, is simply not acceptable behavior. And that had been working fine for us. But with this order, we had no choice. And I really wanted to taste real French fondue. And yes, it was very good. But it truly was a ridiculous amount of food.

But what a wonderful day we had shared. And more adventures to come. Life is goooooood!

Monday, June 2, 2025 – Chamonix, France

Today’s driving adventure started once again at 10:00 am. From Chamonix we headed southwest to exquisite Annecy, which is purported to be France’s most beautiful lakefront town. Of this I have no doubt.

The drive took us through an incredible region with exceptional landscapes, fairytale towns, and natural wonders galore. Absolutely perfect for nature lovers like Andy and me. And along the way when driving through narrow gorges, we were in the company of Goat’s Beard, a flowering herbaceous perennial.

This part of the French Alps is a popular destination during the ski season, and it appeared that every little village had its own lift and ski runs. But we were lucky enough to visit it in the Spring, when the mountain flowers were in full bloom and there was no snow on the ground. Frankly I would have been scared stiff if there had been snow. Because like everywhere else in the Alps, the roads are narrow, twisty, and only designed for horse drawn wagons, not little cars with more horsepower than needed to get the job done. Absolutely no one can go very fast on most of the roads. Too many twists and turns. And drivers are different here. Yes, they drive fast on Autoroutes (motorways) with a default limit of 130 km/h. But drivers aren’t rude here. They have manners. They don’t have to prove they are macho by cutting people off or in any way showing that they are in some way superior. And even though there is sometimes graffiti, there is no trash along the road. People take care to make things nice.

When we got back to our hotel, we had time before dinner to do some reading. When it was time to go for dinner, the heavens opened, and we were tempted to get in our car and go look for a restaurant. But it isn’t the same in towns that have been around for centuries. Parking is a problem. And many parking lots cost money. And almost always, they are full anyway. So, even if you can get a parking space, you still must walk some distance.

So, we put on our raincoats and headed out to see what we could find. And if it seems like it might have taken a long time to get to the restaurants, it only took no more than 10 minutes to walk to any of the restaurants we visited. Since we had already been to 4 different restaurants, (Josephine Restaurant, L’ Atelier, Casa Valerio, and Le Monchu), why not make it 5? We settled on the Rose Du Pont. Very beautiful building and as we had learned the hard way, we split a delicious green salad and fish and chips (frites). Perfect amount for us.

Then back to our room to read some more and for me to write up today’s adventure.

Tomorrow, we leave this beautiful alpine town, and head into the interior of France.

Tuesday, May 20, 2025 – Camano Island to Vancouver, BC to Amsterdam

Got off to a great start. We wanted to leave home by 10:00 am and actually backed down the driveway at 10:04 am. Hurray us!

Then an easy drive to Peace Arch crossing with not even a 5-minute wait. And then a less than 1 minute questioning by the Canadian crossing guard including where are you headed, when do you plan to return, and do you have any guns etc. along for the ride. After that brutal inquisition, we were on our way to YVR (the Vancouver BC International airport). But before we could go through all the security, check in, and interminably long wait to board our flight, we first had to a) find the airport, and b) drop off our car. Piece of cake! There were signs everywhere. (Thank you, Canada and Jetset YVR Parking.)

Then onto the plane we proceeded. Business Class, which BTW I adamantly recommend, especially if you are a senior citizen. For this trip, we were, for the first time, flying the friendly skies with KLM. The seats were wonderfully comfortable, but their idea of gourmet fare and mine are worlds apart. Suffice it to say, I ate hardly any of the dinner and breakfast provided. But sleep, that I did. All tucked away in my own little cocoon. With Mr. C. right next to me.  

After landing and collecting our luggage, it was time to find a taxi. Easy. And there was no waiting time. Then it was off to our BNB.

Wednesday, May 21, 2025 – bnbheerhugowaard

Now, when I was reserving a place to lay our heads the first night in the Netherlands, I decided against staying in Amsterdam proper. Hotels in Amsterdam are very pricy.   Well, I should have realized that a taxi ride of 57 km from Amsterdam airport to bnbheerhugowaard, would cost quite a bit of money too. But I never imagined that it would cost us 200 Euros, plus tip! Way to go Patti. And then, how in the hell were we going to get from our bnb in the Netherlands hinterland to Amsterdam and then to the Viking River Cruise terminal? Because as we were informed by our host when we arrived, there are no taxis in this small town that go as far as Amsterdam. Well then, now what should we do? So, Andy went on his phone and found a local taxi company where we could book online for a quick 6 kl car ride that would take us to the town’s (and I use the term “town” loosely) train station. But mind you, at this point we are sleep deprived, hungry, and I am totally anxious and ready to turn around and JUST GO HOME! So, instead of making a taxi reservation for 10:00 am on the 22^nd, he made it for the 23^rd. And after securing a taxi, Andy went online and bought us 2 first class train tickets to Amsterdam.

Our own little room at the bnb. Notice the pen in the foreground with chickens. There were also rabbits.

Pretty little church near the bnb in Heerugowaard, Netherlands

Thursday, May 22, 2025 – Amsterdam and all aboard Viking’s Gersemi river boat in Amsterdam.

After partaking of a lovely breakfast provided by our host, we find ourselves checked out and waiting at 10:00 am for our taxi. At about 10 after, Andy looked at the reservation again and realized his mistake. Now, what in the bloody hell are we going to do? Just about then our host must have seen us still waiting and we explained that we had made an error, had called the taxi company, confessed our mistake, and they said they would try and get a cab to us in half an hour. “Try” being the operative word. Our host took pity on us, and after unloading a whole bunch of stuff from his car, took us to the train station. So, here we are waiting for the next train, not really knowing what to do. I must at this point tell one and all that when an old lady with a smile on her face, and a confession of being completely confused asks for assistance, it is gladly given. Because this lovely young man, who was also waiting for the next train, who BTW spoke beautiful English, helped us figure out which train to take.

But then, now that we have the train reservation on our phone, what in blue blazes do we do next. There is no scanner or any railroad personnel to assist us at the station. God must have taken pity on us, because now we are at least traveling in the right direction. That destination being Amsterdam. A nice ride and we got to see a lot of lovely homes, fields of cows and sheep, water canals everywhere, and more bicycles than I have ever seen in any place before.  

So, we got off the train, and again, not a soul to tell us where to go. And I’m telling you true, I wanted to shout at just about anyone who would listen, just exactly where I wanted them to go! No signs, and of course I led us astray. At about the time I was afraid I might break into tears; Andy calmly directed us to the exit. And of course, we had to prove that we had actually paid for our ride. But perhaps at this point the Gods of foreign travel decided to once again take pity on us, because the gate opened immediately as soon as Andy showed the bar code, or whatever that squiggly square thing is called, and we were no longer train station captives. Then, where do we find a taxi. Again, no signs. But Andy spotted a taxi, and we toddled off to claim it at a good clip for a couple of weary senior citizens. And the taxi driver gladly opened the car doors for us.

And then our next adventure began. We gave the nice taxi driver as much information as we had, but unfortunately, he dropped us off at the wrong dock. But as luck would have it, a nice lady who was helping people board a huge floating hotel, sent us off in the right direction. And after about a 20-minute brisk walk, we finally arrived at our destination.

Now I must confess, I haven’t walked that long or that fast in many years. It’s amazing what the fear of not knowing where you are and how you are going to get to where you need to be, to put your body into – full steam ahead mode! But we were welcomed aboard our Viking ship, shown to our room, and were advised that lunch was being served.

And the really ridiculous part of this whole unnecessary taxi ride was the fact that the train station was closer to where our boat was moored than where the taxi driver dropped us off! But that is just one of the aspects of traveling. Not having a clue what you are doing. Will I ever forget this mix-up, of course not!

After a nice repast, we went back to our room, took everything out of our freshly delivered suitcases, and stowed everything in drawers and closets. I was amazed at how much storage there actually was in our tiny room.

We chose not to pay for a fancy room because we didn’t plan to stay in our room when there were so many lovely areas on the boat just begging to be used. 

After a light lunch, it was time for me to start my travel report.

Andy decided to go for a short introduction to Amsterdam guided walk at 3:30 pm (5 people) into the heart of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam’s train station

Amsterdam Centraal Station has two new underwater bicycle parking facilities with a combined capacity of approximately 11,000 bicycles.

I decided to stay in our room, start my trip report, and if luck was on my side, take a bit of a nap before toddling up to the lounge for drinks at 5:00 pm.

Interesting fact about Amsterdam. Amsterdam consists of 90 islands. Basically, a patchwork of islands connected by 1,500 bridges.  

Met a lovely couple from Nashville who were retired music educators. We thoroughly enjoyed talking with them. Then at 6:00 pm we were given a welcome briefing and safety instructions. 7:00 pm was dinner. Again, we met a nice couple from Salem, Oregon. And after our initial banter, we realized we were of like minds when it came to the situation, we Americans are currently facing. So, we talked about our leaders. Of course we did! Then after dinner we decided to check out the trio that would be providing entertainment in the lounge. After 30 seconds, we gave it a pass, headed back to our room, and were in bed by 9:30 pm hoping to sync our bodies with the local time zone.

I have no pictures from this day. I took plenty, but they somehow disappeared from my cell phone camera. We looked everywhere for them, but they are simply gone. Grrrrr

Friday, May 23, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Kinderdijk, Netherlands

Both woke up early. Andy decided to go top-side and find a cup of coffee. I read for a bit then got ready to join him for breakfast at 7:00 am.

After breakfast, we joined our group at 8:20 am for a shore excursion to the Kinderdijk Windmills.

Kinderdijk is a village community in the Alblasserwaard province. This corner of South Holland, part of the scenic Waal and Merwede regions, has long been shaped by Rhine Delta waters. Kinderdijk is most known for its 19 remarkably preserved 18th-century windmills. The charming hamlet is located amid low-lying polders, tracts of land reclaimed from the sea by the power of the windmills and enclosed by embankments or dikes. This legendary place calls to mind the 1865 novel Hans Brinker, in which a heroic boy plugs his finger into a ruptured dike.

In this beautiful, water-rich area near Dordrecht we walked to one of the windmills that was built around 1740. These 19 remaining magnificent windmills serve as part of a larger water management system to prevent flooding in this area. This is very important because 60% of the Netherlands is under sea level. And rain, no rain, etc. requires a very complicated system of keeping the water level consistent.

Simply put, these few historic windmills symbolize Dutch water management and in 1997 they were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Why? The Kinderdijk windmills were built to keep the low-lying land of the Alblasserwaard dry. Once you visit this area, you simply must admire the tenacity of the Dutch and their many waterways, dikes, mills, and locks that have been using water to their advantage for over 1000 years.

Of course, during our walk, the heavens opened, and we survived a short but very impressive deluge. And in typical NW Washington manner, 5 minutes later the sun came out and along with a bit of help from the wind, we were dry again in 15 minutes. Of course, I did feel a bit of pressure during the walk, because we had been warned at the start of our tour that we had to be back at the boat by 10:30 am. If not, we would be left behind. Needless to say, we made it back in time, but now safely on board and back in our room, I immediately lay down for a bit of a nap. One hour later, it was time for lunch and afterwords, a nautical talk including a slide show on the workings of our boat.  

Of course, the talk was a bit over our heads, so upon conclusion, we both decided a nap would be the perfect way to spend the next hour. So, lights out, curtains drawn, and logs sawed until 4:30 pm to once again return to the lounge for a talk on upcoming optional excursions. Then drinks in the lounge until dinner was served at 7:00 pm.

After dinner we decided we had socialized enough today and proceeded back to our room for me to write up today’s report and Andy to bury his nose in his kindle.        

Saturday, May 24, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Cologne, Germany

Well, today was a strenuous day for us. After breakfast we joined the “leisurely” group for the Cologne Walking Tour which took us, with the help of short bus ride, into the market district of bustling Cologne.

After passing some other old structures, we finally arrived at Cologne Cathedral.

This Gothic cathedral dominates the skyline of Cologne and is one of Germany’s most famous landmarks.  It is also one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture in the world.

The building of the Cologne Cathedral commenced in 1248. But it took over 600 years to complete. And even after all the years, the cathedral still dominates the skyline of the city.

Currently the cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne, and it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. Upon its completion on the 14th of August 1880, the Cologne Cathedral held the title of the World’s tallest building until 1884.

The Cologne Cathedral dominates the city of Cologne even today and can be viewed from anywhere in the city. The cathedral’s famous twin towers stand out boldly as the symbol of Cologne’s proud history. On the outside the cathedral is dark and rather menacing; inside it is just awe-inspiring.  At the end of the gigantic nave is the reason for the cathedral being built; the shrine of the Three Magi, the Three Wise Men whose relics were brought to the city in 1164.

Then it was back to the boat for lunch.

After lunch we boarded another bus for yet another excursion. This time we visited the Brühl UNESCO Palaces.

The Augustusburg Castle was built on the foundations of a medieval castle in 1725. Shortly thereafter, in 1729, a hunting lodge was designed to the southeast for the owner to practice falconry.

The main block of Augustusburg Palace is a U-shaped building with three main stories and two levels of attics. The three wings are made of brick with roughcast plaster. Two orangeries (a room or dedicated building, historically where orange and other fruit trees are protected during the winter, as a large form of greenhouse or conservatory) adjoin the main building on the north and south sides. The magnificent main staircase is made of ornate marble, jasper and stucco. The main garden directly south of the Augustusburg Palace is a complex, embroidery-like parterre (a level space in a garden occupied by an ornamental arrangement of flower beds) with four fountains and a mirror pool, flanked by alleys lined with lime trees. A path runs diagonally south from this garden to the Falkenlust lodge.

The Falkenlust lodge was built in the style of a country home. The main building has two floors, flanked by two single-story buildings that housed the prince-elector’s falcons. On the ground floor is an oval salon.

After this excursion to this beautiful palace, it was back to the boat for cocktails, dinner, and a short but wonderful classical concert by a flautist and pianist. By the time we were back to our room, I was thoroughly and completely exhausted. But all and all a wonderful, adventure-filled day.

Sunday, May 25, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Koblenz, Germany and Braubach, Germany

We had an early start today. Breakfast at 7:00 am, then 8:30 – 12 noon, a walking tour of historic Koblenz, including the market square and The Liebfrauenkirche. Built on the highest point of the city, the Liebfrauenkirche was the main parish church of Koblenz from the late Middle Ages until the French Revolution. Its beginnings date back to the 5th century, when the Franks built a place of worship in a previous Roman building. Using the foundations, it was rebuilt and extended several times. The onion domes, built in the 17th century, destroyed in 1944 and restored in 1955, characterize the silhouette of the Koblenz old town.

Then back for lunch at noon and from 1:00 pm to about 4:30 pm we sat on the sun deck as the boat made its slow progress through the Middle Rhine. This area is the most beautiful section of the Rhine Valley. It lies between Koblenz and Bingen. Here, the river cuts through the mountains, (we consider them hills rather than mountains) creating a winding valley of pretty villages with Gothic-style houses and fairytale castles. As for the weather, we had patchy clouds, sun breaks, wind, calm, and everything in between. Fortunately, no rain. But it was, huddle in your raincoat, take it off, put it on again, etc. etc. the entire time we were on the sun deck.

Happy campers along the shore.

Andy taking in the sights.

At 4:30 pm it was time to go down to the lounge, for a briefing on tomorrow’s excursions and events.

After that it was a nice drink, and then for me, back to our room to catch up on my trip report, while Andy wandered around the boat until it was time to collect me for dinner.

Not a bad way to spend the day. Ya think?!

Monday, May 26, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Speyer, Germany 

Today was just what the doctor ordered. A morning with nothing planned, besides breakfast, of course. So, I slept in until 8:20 am. And boy was that nice. Then, to the dining room for breakfast. And then, because it was such a beautiful day, a quiet few hours up on the sun deck reading, chatting with fellow adventurers, and generally taking it easy.

After lunch, it was time to get ready for our shore excursion: Speyer Walking Tour. Like our other tours, we had a local guide who kept us well informed as we visited the area.

Speyer Cathedral*, a basilica* with four towers and two domes, was founded by Conrad II in 1030 and remodeled at the end of the 11th century. It is one of the most important Romanesque monuments from the time of the Holy Roman Empire. The cathedral was the burial place of the German emperors for almost 300 years.

Speyer Cathedral is historically, artistically, and architecturally one of the most significant examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe. It is, by virtue of its proportions, the largest, and, by virtue of the history to which it is linked, the most important.

In its size and the richness of its sculptures, some created by Italian sculptors, it stands out among all contemporary and later Romanesque churches in Germany, and it had a profound influence on the pattern of their ground plans and vaulting. Today – after the destruction of the Abbey of Cluny – Speyer Cathedral is the largest Romanesque church in the world. 

*A basilica is a church that has special importance for worship or history, while a cathedral is the seat of a bishop. Speyer Cathedral just happens to be both. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After walking around the town and visiting the cathedral, it was back to our boat by 5:00 pm. And into the lounge for a drink and an announcement about tomorrow’s exciting excursions and events.

I think it is time I told you about our experience on this cruise. The staff is friendly and very helpful. The rooms and public areas, like the lounge and restaurant, are beautifully appointed, comfortable, and the food is fabulous. And the information provided about every aspect of our boat tour, including the next day’s events, is provided every day so you can’t miss out on anything.

We spoke with many of the guests and have heard not even one complaint. In fact, all the folks we have visited with, especially the ones who have been on large boat cruises, tell us that they much prefer the intimacy of a smaller group. Even if there aren’t casinos, movie theaters, swimming pools, etc. etc., they much prefer everything this type of cruise offers. The Viking people know how to do it right. We are having a wonderful time.

Well, it may be only 10:00 pm, but I’m calling it a day. Tomorrow’s excursion starts at 8:05 am tomorrow. That means breakfast at 6:45 am. 

Tuesday, May 27, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Kehl, Germany 

Even though our cruise ship was now docked in Kehl, Germany, our adventures today were in Strasbourg, France (just across the river) and a bus ride into wine country for Alsatian wine tasting.

But first, panoramic Strasbourg by land and water. Our group left for our land and water tour at 8:05 am as dictated. Then it was a short, but up many stairs, walk to our bus, get on the bus, drive into Strasbourg, get off the bus, get on our tour boat, and ride along the canals for an hour and 15 minutes. (We went through 2 small locks on our water tour. One up, one down. Great fun!)

Then, off the boat and a nice walk and interesting facts about the area given by our guide as we proceeded to Notre Dame Cathedral of Strasbourg France.

Interesting fact. There isn’t just the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris. (The one that was partially burned recently. And the only Notre Dame I had ever read about.) But in fact, in France alone, there are more than a hundred churches dedicated to “Our Lady” (“Notre Dame”) scattered around the country. And we were lucky enough to visit this incredible cathedral. To put it mildly, it was freaking huge!

And truly, nothing can prepare you for your first glimpse of Strasbourg’s Cathédrale Notre-Dame, completed in all its Gothic grandeur in 1439. The lace-fine facade lifts the gaze little by little to flying buttresses, leering gargoyles, and a 466-foot spire. The interior is exquisitely lit by 12^th to 14^th century stained-glass windows, including the western portal’s jewel-like rose window. The Gothic-meets-Renaissance astronomical clock strikes solar noon at 12.30 pm with a parade of figures portraying the different stages of life and Jesus with his apostles.

After going through the cathedral, we headed off on our own to visit the statue of my great, great, great, etc. etc. grandfather Jean-Baptiste Kléber.  Born in 1753 and died in 1800. Gramps was a French army officer and architect who served in the War of the Bavarian Succession and French Revolutionary Wars. After serving for one year in the French Royal Army, he joined the Imperial Army of the Holy Roman Emperor seven years later. However, his humble birth hindered his opportunities. Eventually, General Kléber joined the French Revolutionary Army in 1792 and quickly rose through the ranks.

 

After saying goodbye to my famous ancestor, we decided a bit of a sit down was in order. Although I am managing to walk a great deal better than expected, there comes a time each day when my body tells me enough is enough! So, upon finding an establishment that served both coffee drinks and gelato, we availed ourselves of a table and chairs to wait the 20 minutes or so until our fellow travelers re-grouped, and together we toddled our way back to our bus.  

After enjoying the most delicious lemon gelato I have ever tasted, we joined our tour group and arrived back at our boat just in time for lunch. A first for me. Even with Andy’s help, I could not finish my 2 scoops of gelato. It still boggles my mind to even think that this could happen!

At 2:00 pm after enjoying yet another delicious lunch, we joined yet another tour. This time it was up to the bus again (huffing and puffing all the way) to once again manage the steep stairs up onto our tour bus. After about an hour of driving out into the countryside, which BTW at least half of which I missed because I fell asleep, we arrived at the Achillees winery.

Each of the barrels had their own special picture. I have no idea if the pictures meant anything, but they were all fun.

Andy examining the vines.

After seeing the workings of the winery, we sat down and did a bit of sampling what this fine winery had to offer. I only took one tiny sip of each wine, but truthfully, I wasn’t very impressed. And wonder of wonders, Andy didn’t purchase even a single bottle. (Amazing restraint on his part.) 

Then it was back on the bus for another hour’s ride back to our boat. At least for the return trip I was able to stay awake. Then hurry to our room, shed a few layers of clothing, and hurry up to the lounge for a drink, and a port talk including disembarkation details.

Then down to the restaurant for our special “taste of Germany” dinner.

After dinner it was time to go up to the sun deck to assist our captain as he brought our boat through a lock safely. And I must say, we did a terrific job.

This was a very large lock. The barge carrying containers was only inches away from our boat. These boat captains really know what they are doing.

The boat captain and his assistant were steering our boat from a side control station rather than the regular, middle of the boat station. It was amazing to watch.

You can see how close the boats were together. Fantastic piloting.

Of course, the fact that I was offering my expertise didn’t hurt. Right!

Then it was back to our room for me to write up today’s trip report and to obey my pillow which had been calling my name all day!  

Another great day on our “Viking” adventure.

Oh, I must add. So far, the only thing I have heard about that I want to purchase before we leave this area is a Kitchen Witch.

A Kitchen Witch (KW) is a traditional home décor with the functions of an amulet, that has deep roots in European traditions. It usually is a hanging poppet with a broom, witch’s hat or headkerchief, and often also other attributes like spoons, forks, bowls, herb sachets and so on. Kitchen Witches are usually homemade and are considered poppets rather than dolls.

To get technical, a doll is a plaything and a poppet is a small figure resembling a human that is used in witchcraft. But before you panic and think that all poppets are bad, remember that these are good witches. Specifically tasked with overseeing your home and kitchen. 

There is some debate over where the Kitchen Witch originated, some claiming Scandinavia and other Germany, but consensus points to older Northern European customs, as it seems to have been more widespread earlier.

The poppet is supposed to depict a “good” witch who inspires productivity and safety in a kitchen, but also counteracts any ill-will directed to the home. It is considered good luck to give a Kitchen Witch to a friend or family member.

And I can attest to that. Many years ago, my sister-in-law Evelyn gave me a Kitchen Witch. I loved my KW. But with the years, it became dusty and so it left our premises, I’m pretty sure, of its own volition. Apparently, we were doing just fine, and perhaps there was another home that needed more assistance than we required. (My story and I’m sticking to it!)

Anyway, I want a new one. So, I am on the lookout.

After another fine dinner, it was back to our room to read until our eyes could no longer focus on words.   

Wednesday, May 28, 2025 – Viking’s Gersemi river boat – Breisach, Germany 

You would think that on vacation you wouldn’t want to miss out on anything. Wrong. At least wrong, when you are 33 days from turning 81 and your knees are shot! So, this morning, after breakfast, Andy visited the charming town of Breisach while I took the opportunity to write up yesterday’s adventures and do a bit of reading.

Notice how the bricks are positioned. Very clever.

While I was writing I considered what the average age of this cruise ship’s guests might be. I know the youngest guests are 22 and 20. But like us, most of our fellow travelers are retired. So, if I were to hazard a guess, I would say 65-70. Some, of course, are older, some younger. And I would also say, except for a couple of curmudgeonly elderly gentlemen we had tried to engage in conversation, who were obviously on this trip only because their wives insisted, everyone had a burning thirst for travel. And as you might expect, most of our fellow travelers were from the US. And except for one of the curmudgeons, who expressed the beginnings of a positive opinion about our present administration, all the others, if the subject came up, also were truly appalled at what is happening in our country. (And as you can probably imagine, when Mr. Curmudgeon began to speak, we suddenly were finished with our dinners. Funny how that works!)

But all in all, I would have to give our fellow adventurers a 10. Maybe even a 15.

Well, I must stop my narrative now, because it is getting close to lunch time. Not that I’m hungry. In fact, quite the contrary. But we have a 4 hour tour this afternoon into the Black Forest region of Germany. And of course, I don’t want to begin any adventure on an empty stomach. So, once again, I must put in a good word for Viking cruises. There is no way in hell you could go hungry on this boat. There is food everywhere. No matter what time of night or day, there is something to nibble on. And lovely and comfortable places to just hunker down and read.

And just so you know, I will not be purchasing a cuckoo clock while visiting the Black Forest. I made that mistake when I visited the region while on a tour with my church choir in 1988. When I got home, my new cuckoo clock drove me “cuckoo” and I took it down after only a few weeks. Somehow, it too, like my old Kitchen Witch, disappeared without a trace.

But just for fun, a bit of history about these amazingly noisy ways of telling time.

The story of clock making in the Black Forest begins around 1630. People there had always crafted and carved using the local wood that was one of the few natural resources in the area, especially during the long winters when the land was covered with snow and they could hardly leave their houses.

It must have happened around 1630 that a peddler who sold glass from the Black Forest to foreign countries, returned with a clock, perhaps from the land of Böhmen (today’s Czech Republic). Somebody in the Black Forest must have been fascinated by this technical wonder that kept time much better than hourglasses or sundials that were used in the area at that time. So, this person built his own clock and started the tradition of clock making.

Those first clocks were rather primitive. They used toothed wheels made of wood and simple stones as weights. Instead of a pendulum, they used a piece of wood called a “Waag” that moved forward and back above the clock dial, to make the clock keep time.

Most of the people who made clocks at that time were not the rich farmers, but the so-called “Häuslers”. In the Black Forest area, usually the oldest son of a farmer inherited the farm; his siblings only got a small piece of land. Those “Häuslers” had to work for other farmers to survive during the winter-months, and clock making was a welcome way for them to earn a little money. In 1690, the whole industry of clock making was developed in the Black Forest.

Clockmaking became more and more important for the rather poor Black Forest area. It is known for example that in 1808 in Triberg, and the surrounding villages, 790 of 9013 inhabitants were involved in clock-making. In 1850 the Herzog (Duke) of Baden founded a school for clock-making in Furtwangen, where students learned math and drawing as well as making cases and movements for the clocks.

At 1:45 pm, we climbed aboard a bus to take us into the Black Forest to the quaint little village of Hofgut Sternen.

The glassblower doing his thing.

From our ship it took about an hour and twenty minutes to arrive at Hofgut Sternen. On our way we drove through parts of the Black Forest, and that was most enjoyable. The drive is incredibly beautiful, but the roads are very narrow and very twisty. When we arrived at Hofgut Sternen we were given the opportunity to watch a glass blower in action. And of course, a lovely shop displaying beautiful hand-blown glass objects for sale. Also, a cuckoo clock demonstration providing us with a bit of information about how cuckoo clocks are put together. And then of course, you could choose your favorite clock and have it shipped home. There was also a Black Forest Cake demonstration, but I skipped that. While I was shopping, (bought a beautiful glass bird) Andy took a guided hike to a beautiful little chapel.

To be perfectly honest, my favorite part of this excursion was seeing the Black Forest.

Then back on the bus to arrive back aboard our cruise boat at 6:15 pm. There was quite a bit of traffic, so the ship’s departure time was held up. But as soon as the last person was onboard, we were on our way.

Then down to our cabin to clean up a bit, and up to the lounge for a well-earned drink. Then 7:00 pm dinner. By 8:30 pm we were back in our room packing our bags because our bags must be outside our door at 8:00 am. So, waiting until the next morning would never work for us. 

While our bags were being taken off the boat, we waited in the lounge. Our taxi was scheduled by the cruise line to take us to the car rental place at the airport at 9:00 am. So, I will close for today and try to get a good night’s sleep.

This cruise was worth every penny. Even though it was sometimes physically strenuous, we survived. There was plenty of time to relax and just enjoy being on holiday. And the sights we experienced and the things we learned will stay with us for a very long time. We are well and truly blessed.

But now, on to the next part of our European adventure. Tomorrow we are off on our own, in our own rental car, having to find our hotels, meals, gas stations, etc. etc. all by ourselves. Hopefully we are still up to the task. We shall soon find out if we can continue to consider ourselves inveterate travelers. Time will tell,

Part 5 – Salt Creek Recreation Area, Port Angeles, WA

Wednesday, September 25, 2024 – Salt Creek Recreation Area, Port Angeles, WA – site 32

Well, rain was forecasted, and rain it was. What a lovely way to hitch up a trailer and set off on yet another day of traveling from point A to point B. In this case, Vancouver Island, BC to Port Angeles, WA via the Black Ball ferry. So, having to be out of camp by 11:00 am, meant that we would be in line at the Black Ball ferry dock at around noon for the 3:00 pm sailing. But what were we to do in Victoria towing a trailer. There are no parking garages for truck and trailer, nor any areas where trailers are welcome. So, thinking we might just be turned away and asked to move on down the road when we approached the ticket booth for the ferry because we were so early, we were greeted with open arms and told to just get in line. So, once parked, we moved into our trailer, had a nice lunch, and waited patiently for 1:30 pm when the border patrol would come through and check our passports. While we waited, we took a few pictures.

View across the harbour. (And yes, I spelled harbour correctly. We are still in Canada thank you very much!)

Cute little water taxi.

The “Empress” herself.

Cars disembarking from the Black Ball ferry. Notice that they are coming out of the side of the vessel, not the end. This should be fun boarding with a truck and trailer. Not!

Then another hour before we drove onto the ferry.

Then upstairs to sit in comfort while our ship crossed the Straights of Juan de Fuca. Luckily it was calm sailing. But even then, the boat was rocking side to side more than some of the passengers appreciated. Had it not been raining I would have been out on the bow of the ship doing my Kate Winslet impersonation because I love the ups and downs of riding the waves. But I restrained myself and sat inside reading my current book, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn by Betty Smith. Which BTW, I am enjoying immensely.

Not an easy read because it deals with poverty. And how rough it was for immigrants in the early 1900’s. But the writing is beautiful, and the story portrays how resilient folks had to be to survive at the very lowest level of educational or work opportunities, or class and nationality distinctions. The book is truly a classic in every regard. I highly recommend you add it to your list of “must read” books.

After leaving the boat we had to go through US Customs. We were prepared with a detailed list of how much liquor we were bringing into the country, how many semi-automatic weapons we were smuggling into Washington, and of course, how many citrus fruits we were bringing into the US from the rich and plentiful tropical citrus groves all over Canada. And the only questions our nice border guard asked us was if we purchased anything in Canada (yes, a wooden sculpture) and did we have any fruit or veggies, (yes, part of an onion, some carrots, and pea pods). (What we forgot to report was the garlic we had purchased on Salt Spring Island. Had it been found; I may have had to write this report while awaiting deportation. Sometimes luck favors the well prepared. And in this case, it proved true.)

No mention whatsoever about drugs, guns, or live animals. Of course, we didn’t have any illegal drugs, guns of any sort, or live animals (except for a possible spider, mosquito, or common house fly trying to immigrate to a warmer climate). But all that effort on our part gone to waste.

Anyway, out of Port Angeles and on west to the Salt Creek Recreation area and our new home for 3 nights.

After unhitching and getting set up, it was way past happy hour. So, after safe arrival libations, we had dinner and a fine evening of reading and an early to bed. Nice to be home in the beautiful state of Washington. We are livin’ the good life, that’s all I have to say!

Thursday, September 26, 2024 – Salt Creek Recreation Area

Well, what to do when it’s mighty cloudy and there is rain in the forecast? Hey, why not drive up to Hurricane Ridge? Actually, that was not our first thought. Before starting out, we had decided to head into Port Angeles (PA) and visit the Fine Arts Center. But as we were driving towards PA, we could see the tops of the nearby Olympic Mountains. So, being the grand adventurers that we are, we took a chance and headed up into the Olympic Nation Park. After all, Hurricane Ridge was only 17 miles from the outskirts of Port Angeles. So, we weren’t investing too much time if all that happened was a nasty old cloud bank completely obliterating Mount Olympus.

But as luck would have it, we had lovely vistas all the way to the viewpoint that looked out at Mt. Olympus and it’s few remaining glaciers.

Eastward view from the ridge.

Gone was the day lodge (visitor’s center) that burned down on May 7, 2023. In its place was a nice his and hers portable washroom. Which for some of us in our golden years, is like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow!

But what fun to actually see the namesake of the “real” Mount Olympus that we had visited on last year’s adventure to Greece.

So, a few facts about Mount Olympus – Washington State and Mount Olympus – Greece:

Washington State: Mount Olympus is the tallest mountain on the peninsula, stretching 7,980 feet into the sky. It is also the most glaciated peak in the Olympics. The mountain is not directly accessible by car but can be seen from afar on a clear day from sites such as Hurricane Ridge.

Greece: Mount Olympus is part of an extensive massif (a compact group of mountains, especially one that is separate from other groups) which consists of 52 peaks and deep gorges. The highest peak being 9,570 feet above sea level. And even at that altitude, it only receives a slight dusting of snow in the winter. And unlike Washington’s Mount Olympus, you can drive or walk along the very base of this incredible massif which appears to just rise directly out of the sea.

So, after taking pictures of our Mt. Olympus and availing ourselves of the facilities, we headed back to PA to find some lunch. Having no idea where to eat, we ended up at a nice pub/café calling itself Moby Duck. The fish was fresh and plentiful, and the beer was great.

After lunch we decided to take, as much as possible, local coastal roads back to camp. We hit a few dead ends, but then that was just part of the fun. Finally, we found our way back to camp at about 3:30 pm just in time for the heavens to open.

But safely tucked away in our cozy, warm trailer, we read, wrote, and generally stayed dry.

After a nice dinner of chili (made at home before we left) which was absolutely perfect for a rainy, cold evening, we read for a while until it was time for bed. I feel like this whole trip has been about catching up on sleep. We stay very busy at home. But on our trailer trips, we become lazy. And that is exactly what we need to recharge our batteries.

Friday, September 27, 2024 – Salt Creek Recreation Area

Woke to sun gallantly trying to find its way through the clouds. And by golly, it finally won. And because it definitely is Fall, the leaves are turning color. I just loved this tree with its leaf tips giving way to the inevitable.

After a late breakfast, we decided to go into town (the town being Port Angeles) and visit the Port Angeles Fine Arts Center. Their current exhibit being – Sparks of Connection- In Celebration of Fem Fabrication. According to the center’s website “The featured artist, Heather Dawn Sparks, uses her metal fabrication expertise to create intentional space for other fem fabricators to learn the craft. As an artist she uses metal as a primary foundation for her art and she interweaves paper cutout design, creating a beautiful balance between soft and hard form as she explores the interplay between light and shadow. Exhibiting alongside her to delve into the sparks of connection made through creative collaboration will be emerging and seasoned regional metal artists.”

These were huge spiders. Floor to ceiling.

What nice legs you have my dear!

Not a great picture of the metal piece, but it gives you an idea of the layout of the building.

Another beautiful piece of metal art.

Along with the fine arts center there was a fun outside sculpture park.

Now, that’s my kind of fence!

We walked the whole 5 acres and didn’t get lost. (That would have been impossible because the path was very well laid out.) But still, we made it through without having to ask for directions. Some of what we saw.

Then we headed back to camp for lunch and for Andy to go for a walk up Striped Peak.

And after that, for both of us to read (or nap) outside in the afternoon sun.

After sitting in the sun until I nearly froze to death, I climbed back in the trailer to read until once again it was time to drive into Port Angeles. This time to have dinner at the 929 Woodfire Grill.

We loved the metal sculpture outside the restaurant. This picture is for our dear friend Cindy who absolutely adores giraffes. But then again, who doesn’t?

The restaurant served good food, but no cocktails. And they were out of the beer I like. Oh well, that was OK because we were seated outside under umbrellas. At least there was a propane fire nearby. But still, it was chilly. Enough so that we didn’t even look at the dessert menu. And usually, I like to at least look at the dessert menu because you never know if something new and exciting might be listed. Doesn’t happen often, but it could!

Then back to camp for our last night on the road.

This has been a very pleasant three weeks. Only 5 different campsites, so we really got to know each of the areas we were visiting.

But I’m looking forward to being home. We both miss our kitties and all the conveniences only a real home can provide. But we also know that our hectic pace is waiting not so patiently for our return. Gigs, and doctor’s appointments, and home concerts, and the holidays just around the corner. But fall is also an exciting time of year. Leaves drop, flowers fade, and there is never enough daylight to suit either one of us. But it’s also the time of year for soup and homemade bread, pot roasts, meat pies, and all the other comfort foods that entice us to stay home and stay warm. And just hunker in. We are so lucky. So, yes, I am ready to go home.

Saturday, September 28, 2024 – Camano Island

It’s always sad when a trip comes to an end, even though I am more than excited to be going home. But for me, going home has always meant warmth, family, and a safe and comfortable place to get away from the world. Oh, that everyone was as lucky.

And it really came to mind the difference in how people are looking at the upcoming election from totally different perspectives.

On our way out of Port Angeles, I noticed that more cars were coming into town as opposed to heading east out of town. Then I noticed that some of the vehicles, especially the trucks, were flying American flags and Trump banners. What we were seeing was a rolling, albeit seemingly peaceful, rally of Trump supporters. And it made me very sad.

Note: You may want to skip the next few paragraphs because I feel driven to write about the upcoming election, and it may not be what you want to read.

I don’t care that Trump is a republican. If he were a democrat, I would still hold him in disdain. This election should not be about standing by your party. It should be about good versus evil. And for goodness’ sake, if anyone thinks that if a democrat gets elected, taxes will automatically go up, gun ownership will be eliminated, immigrants would be free to pour into our country and take all the good jobs, and the economy would only get worse. If you truly believe that, because you have been spoon-fed information from a biased, unreliable news source, then you need to set aside some time to search out unbiased information for yourself. Because, in fact, the economy is doing very well. And besides, nothing of real value is getting done because the house and senate can’t even agree that Tuesday comes after Monday. And that wouldn’t change overnight no matter if a democrat got into office. We as a country are at a stale mate regardless of who wins!  

But if Harris were elected, as a nation we would have a person who actually cares what happens to America and the rest of the world from an intelligent, educated, concerned perspective. And she would have a great staff to support her and help her lead our government so that every citizen benefited.

And the bully who once gave high governmental offices to his unqualified buddies and then got rid of them when they dared to have a different opinion, would no longer have the opportunity to hurt our nation. And maybe institutions like FEMA, federal aid for disasters, Obamacare, social security, and other benefits badly needed by many American citizens might stay in place. Or even get better!      

So, please don’t think “I must go along with the party line”. Think, I need to vote for the person who will do the best job of running our democratic country so that it will stay a country of the people and for the people.   

Note: OK, I’m done talking politics. Back to traveling.

We had left plenty of time to reach Port Townsend for our 2:00 pm sailing to Coupeville so we had lunch at a small Mexican restaurant before getting in line. With full tummies we got in line, and after boarding had an uneventful crossing.

In line to board the ferry.

After dispensing with ferry travel for the foreseeable future, we disembarked the vessel and enjoyed an easy and well-known drive to our trailer storage facility.

We cleared the trailer of essentials – perishables, our pillows, toiletries and pills, computers, books, and a clean pair of underwear each. The rest we left for the next couple of days because basically we were pooped. Plus, we just wanted to honker down with our kitties Max and Miles. And of course, an early to bed since Andy had a gig the next day.

All in all, a peaceful, lazy, delightful fall trip.

Thank you for coming along with us on our latest adventure.

And as always, peace and love to all.  

Part 4 – Weirs Beach RV Resort, Victoria (Vancouver Island) British Columbia

Saturday, September 21, 2024 – Weirs Beach RV Resort, Victoria (Vancouver Island) BC – site 10

Our site backed up to a beautiful pond complete with ducks, geese, and a stately blue heron.

The pond through our back window.

The beach just across from our trailer.

Our own driftwood fortress.

Got on the road by 10:00 am. Thought we would arrive at Weirs Beach by about 3:00 pm but instead didn’t arrive until 4:45 pm. And why the delay? Well of course we had to stop for a potty break. Then gas, then lunch. But the main reason we got into camp later than expected was because the main coast highway between Parksville and the turn off to the southern shore of Vancouver Island, has traffic lights every 10 yards. OK, not that frequent, but when you are trying to get from point A to point B, it sure seemed like it!

And then, after passing the small burg of Crofton where we had landed by ferry from Salt Spring Island, we were completely dumbfounded at what we found. Neither of us had ever traveled from this point south to Victoria. (Or north for that matter!) So, instead of a 4-lane highway, it was a windy, slow, at sometimes 2 lane mountain road with of course the obligatory road construction. What? Weren’t we just a few klicks from a major city? How could the road be so rural appearing and like we were in the middle of freaking nowhere? Like I said – we were flabbergasted.

But finally, we were able to head southwest towards our destination. And even then, it felt like we were a thousand miles from civilization. Two lane roads with very poor signage. But Mr. C. couldn’t get lost if his life depended on it. He just instinctively knows how to find where he needs to go. Amazing.

And once again, I didn’t get behind the wheel. Too many places where the good drivers pulling a trailer that we are, pulled over to let other cars pass us. But the pull-outs were narrow and seemed totally too short and scary to me. So, poor Mr. C. did all the driving. And I must say, he was a very good sport about it. (But I still feel guilty.)

And then we got to camp. Right on the water with a beautiful sandy beach with our big back window facing away from the water. But it’s OK. We can sit on the beach that is barely a cars width from our trailer. And it’s quiet here. So, sleeping and relaxing will be the order of the days to come. Well, along with going into Victoria to visit the Royal BC Museum and Butchart Gardens, I may even try to twist Andy’s arm to take me to high tea at the Empress Hotel. The options are endless. I love Victoria.

Sunday, September 22, 2024 – Weirs Beach RV Resort

After a late breakfast, we decided today was perfect for a ride. Since neither of us had been on the southern shore of Vancouver Island (VI), except for Victoria itself, we felt duty bound to go west Mr. and Mrs. Carr, go west.

So, at about 11:30 am we hopped in our truck and headed for Sooke. Of course, along the way we took various offshoot roads because, after all, we were exploring. First stop – Rocky Point. And if ever a place was properly named, Rocky Point is it! But then, every place name on the entire southern coast of VI should start with Rocky. Rocky Metchosin, Rocky East Sooke, Rocky Sooke, and even Rocky Jordan River. Because I have never seen such hilly, rocky landscape in my life. The fact that any animal can actually live off this land is amazing to me. Yet there are signs to watch out for deer, bear, and wolves all along the road, and I do mean road (singular), because there is only one paved road in this area. What could these poor critters possibly be finding to eat? Boggles the mind! And as far as 2 legged critters, there’s not much for us to eat along the way either. Very few dining establishments. Our next main diversion was to leave Rocky Point Road and turn left onto Sooke Road and head to East Sooke. Nothing really there, except a magnificent view of the waterway into Sooke.

So, finding ourselves at a dead end, we turned around and headed north on Gillespie Road until we turned west on highway 14 and on into the tiny burg of Sooke. But before actually going through Sooke, we turned right (north) to follow the Sooke River Road to check out Sooke Potholes Regional Park.  Due to a wildfire located north of Sooke Potholes Park in July of this year, the park was closed until further notice. But it was still a lovely ride as far as we could go. Then back to Sooke and on west to Jordan River. Which of course we just had to cross. Because the Jordan River has since biblical times been imbued with powerful symbolic meanings: it is a boundary and a crossing point, a metaphor for spiritual rebirth and salvation, and a source of holy water.

Now I’m pretty sure the “Jordan River” referenced in the bible is not now nor has it ever been in British Columbia. But it’s never smart to ignore every opportunity to hedge your bets! So, after crossing the river we immediately turned around and crossed it again. It’s called double indemnity.

But the real reason we turned around was because we were starving. And a few klicks back we had seen a sign for Stoked Wood Fired Pizza. Well, by golly, we ate every bit of our Spicy Pepperoni pizza. In fact, the box it came in was almost in jeopardy.

After filling our tummies, it was back to the trailer for a bit of a read outside. For me that lasted about 5 minutes because it was a little bit too cold for my taste. So, inside and onto writing today’s trip report. About 6:00 pm Andy decided he’d had enough nature for the day and came inside to prepare our evening libation. And that’s where I will close for now. Happily sipping a martini while Andy enjoys his Manhattan. M & M’s a pair.

After dinner, more of the same. Read, write, sleep. Not a bad trio.

Monday, September 23, 2024 – Weirs Beach RV Resort

OK, I was awake several hours last night. FOR NO GOOD REASON. If I was anxious about something or didn’t feel well, then I would understand my new tendency towards periodic insomnia. But nothing was bothering me, and I felt just fine. I had heard that sometimes older folks can’t sleep as well as they did when they were younger, but I never thought it would happen to me. (I never counted on wrinkles either, but I’m starting to look like a dried-up prune!) (But that’s neither here nor there.) (Shit just happens!)

Anyway, I slept in a bit longer than I had planned, so we didn’t leave for Victoria until about 11:30 am. Today’s agenda consisted of the Royal BC Museum. So, after parking about 4 blocks from the museum, my legs were so tired by the time we got to the museum, that I was ready to turn around and come back to the trailer. But once I got into the museum, I was raring to go.

Because I love this museum, and it had been too many years since my last visit. But just as Andy was getting in line to buy our tickets, we read that the IMAX theater was about to screen a documentary on Blue Whales. So, we decided to watch that first before going through the museum. (Plus, I could rest my weary legs before strolling through the museum.) And boy oh boy was Blue Whales an interesting and educational production. We both loved it. Next, we toured the museum. But first, 3 views of Victoria from the top floor of the museum.

Then the museum itself.

One of the current exhibitions is about Stonehenge. Very interesting and informative. And it recalled the time my former husband and I had taken our three younger children to Europe for 5 weeks. And one day just minding our own business, we happened to drive by a field that looked empty except for some large stones seemingly enjoying themselves in the afternoon sun. We looked at each other, and even though there was no sign indicating what we were seeing, we were savvy enough to immediately recognize that what we were looking at was Stonehenge. So, all by ourselves, the 5 of us in 1978 walked through these ancient ruins. It was freaking amazing. And we were the only people there.

Now you practically have to offer up your first born, to even stand behind a fence to view this ancient marvel of engineering.

After touring the museum, it was after 3:00 pm and we decided a bit of sustenance was in order. And right in front of us was The Spaghetti Factory which we had eaten at maybe 30 years ago. So, why not? We had two appetizers. Steamed mussels in an amazing wine broth, and fried calamari. Both were delicious.

Then it was back in the truck to head towards our campground. But first, a bit of provisioning. Then back in camp it was cocktail hour and time for me to write up todays’ experiences.

Then cook dinner and do a bit of hand laundering. Andy was out of socks and clean underwear would be in short supply for both of us after tomorrow. So, with no options available, Patti the laundress was put to work!

Then read for a while and an early to bed for me. My body was a bit tired from walking in Victoria and going through the museum. So, knowing we would be doing some more walking tomorrow, I decided to give in to gravity and lay my tired bones down and give them a long rest. When Andy made it to bed, heaven only know?

Tuesday, September 24, 2024 – Weirs Beach RV Resort

Well, I must have been harder on my body than I thought, because this morning I could hardly get out of bed. So, after fixing breakfast and discussing our options for today, we decided Butchart Gardens was out of the question. My arthritic knees just were not up to the task of walking any distance. That left – golf.

We had seen a nearby golf course (Metchosin Golf and Country Club) on our way back from Victoria on Monday. So, armed with golf clubs for Mr. C. and my burning desire to drive a golf cart, off we went for 18 holes of frustration, excitement, zeal, exhilaration, euphoria, discouragement, and every emotion in between. (And that was just my emotional take on the game from a spectator’s perspective. Andy was calm as a cucumber!)

Nice and easy does it every time.

Hazard! What hazard? (And people wonder why I don’t golf!)

And then of course, there are the moving objects to avoid……

But what a grand time we had. Andy played well, and I actually drove the golf cart with as much assurance as if I’d been trained by Mario Andretti. And no Canadian Geese were hurt in the process. Which is amazing since they were happily wandering the fairways as if they owned the place. And the day was perfect for being outside. Sunny and warm with only a slight breeze to remind us that it is indeed fall.

After skipping lunch, we decided to have an early dinner at My-Chosen Café. Wonderful food and charming ambiance. I had liver and onions, with bacon and gravy which came with garlic bread and a lovely fresh veggie salad. (Even the blue cheese dressing was wonderful.) OMG. If I lived here, I would eat at this rustic eatery at least once a week. My entrée was just that good. Andy had pesto linguini with chicken and garlic bread. He also loved his meal.

Then back to the trailer to get some work done in preparation for tomorrow morning’s departure. (Dump black and grey water, put camp chairs away along with our outdoor tables, that sort of thing.)

We usually wait until the morning when we leave to do all these chores, but the weather report was for rain starting about midnight and continuing during the day tomorrow. And neither of us enjoy doing chores and hooking up the trailer in the rain. So, whenever possible, we do as much as possible ahead of time.

Tomorrow will take us back into Washinton state for three more days of trailering. And our last trip of the year.

It is always sad to say goodbye to our trailer for the winter because after all, it is our second home. And we always have so much fun pulling it along with us as we explore new and exciting areas or visiting places that beckon us back year after year. But our dear Pullwinkle needs time off too.

But we’re not done yet. Port Angeles here we come!  

End of part four. One more to go.     

Part 3 – Bella Pacifica Campground, Tofino, Vancouver Island

Monday, September 16, 2024 – Bella Pacifica Campground, Tofino, Vancouver Island – site 26

Because we were informed that we must be out of our campsite by 10:00 am, we got an early start. We actually left at 9:56, which believe me, is not easy for us.

We like a leisurely beginning to our day. We read the paper online while slowly sipping our coffee, followed by a good-sized breakfast to tide us through to lunch. But with an early departure deadline, I skipped reading the paper and went full speed ahead into breakfast preparation. Quickly followed by getting the inside of the trailer ready to move on down the road. While Andy secures the outside. (Unhook water and electricity etc. etc. etc.) After 32 years of trailering, we pretty much have our individual duties down to a science. Which is good, because I am not a morning person. By 4:00 pm I can accomplish great feats of daring. But at 9:00 am, I am basically worthless.

Once out of camp, we turned west on highway 4 towards Port Alberni and on till we reached the shores of the mighty Pacific Ocean. And I must say, the road all the way was not the best road we have ever encountered. Not the worst either. (And yes, we had been warned by our dear friend Tim that the road was rough.) Lots of up and down, a couple 18% grades, around more curves than I ever would have dreamed possible, past two big lakes, large growth forests, and mountains with bare, vertical pinnacles. But an absolutely lovely, unparalleled ride in terms of natural beauty. In terms of smooth and easy to drive, not so much!

Arrived at the “T” in the road. (Going straight would have landed us in the ocean.) Turning left would have taken us to Ucluelet – pronounced you-clue-let (just like it’s spelled) (how often does that happen with “first nation” names). But even with its pronounceable name, we turned right. Our campground was just a few klicks south of the teeming metropolis of Tofino which just happens to be at the very north end of highway 4.

Point of interest: Tofino has grown 58% in the last 20 years. It is no longer a sleepy little village. Several huge resorts are now occupying vast stretches of prime coastal land. Beautiful facilities, but it’s very costly to stay on their hallowed property. But a great place to get away from it all.    

Andy had received a text on his phone while we were driving towards Tofino that provided us with our campsite number and informed us that we were now officially “checked in” and didn’t have to stop and register at the camp office. Great! So, to our site we proceeded. Well, the sites are so close together with very little place to park your pulling vehicle, that we had to ask the kind gentleman across the road from us to move his truck so that Andy could back into our site. He was most accommodating and even helped me guide Andy as he backed our trailer into a site designed for a Volkswagen Beetle. But we made it work.

But what a site. Probably one of the best in the camp which had 265 sites from which to choose. Of course, we wouldn’t fit in 98% of the sites, but here we were for 5 nights with our back window looking out at the ocean, small offshore islands, and a lot of beautiful sandy beach. Lovely.

After getting set up and a enjoying a bit of lunch, Andy decided to take his camp chair and go sit on the beach and read while I typed up the first part of today’s trip report.

While he was down on the beach, he witnessed an episode (presumably) of Canada’s Ultimate Reality Challenge (who knows what that is) being filmed.

For this challenge, each team had to fit 10 pieces of material together to make the rectangular banners and then get them into place on the frame. As you can see from the size of the man standing to the left of the frame, these banners were big and probably quite heavy. It took a great deal of teamwork to accomplish this task and about an average of an hour to complete.

20 people (5 teams of 4) swam to our beach from a barge that was anchored right offshore, then worked in teams to complete different tasks. The above being just one of the assignments.

Some required a bit of strength, but none where anyone was in real physical danger or being asked to eat raw rutabagas or anything that disgusting! The tension was high and screams between teams could be heard. So, it was definitely a serious (at least to participants) competition!

Andy thought it was kind of fun to watch and stayed down on the beach until he got too cold. Then it was back to the trailer for a shot of heat and a couple shots of bourbon in his cocktail of choice this evening – a Maker’s Mark Manhattan.

And oh, the sunset this evening. Magnificent!

After dinner it was the usual. We each read our respective books for a little while before taking those few short steps that afforded us blessed horizontality and a chance to get a good 10 hours of sleep.  Another delightful day in Canada.

Tuesday, September 17, 2024 – Bella Pacifica Campground

Well, the guys predicting rain were not wrong. We woke to a wet world with big old drops of rain. Not a gently little mist or a charming little sprinkle. The ground may have been sodden, but nothing could dampen our spirits. Until Andy tried to light our oven. No way was that sucker going to be lit. So fine! I decided if I couldn’t bake the biscuits for our breakfast of biscuits and sausage gravy with an over easy egg on the side, I would just have to improvise.

The sausage gravy I had made at home and was currently residing in our trailer freezer. The biscuits, in the form of a package mix, were just waiting to be mixed up and baked. But with no oven I had to get inventive. So, I “baked” them on my griddle. I used low heat, flipped them several times, and the result was nicely done biscuits with a crust that was even crispier than if they had been baked. Hurray for me. And since I had made enough gravy for 2 breakfasts, I now had the biscuits in our freezer for the next round of biscuits and gravy. Score 2 for Patti, score 0 for oven!

After finishing breakfast (about 10:30 am) and doing the dishes we decided to take a ride and see what this area had to offer. So, into Tofino we drove. And boy oh boy has Tofino changed since the first and last time I visited this part of the world.

About 25 years ago, my dear friend Linda invited me to come along with her to stay a couple of nights in Tofino and attend some kind of local sculpture garden event. And Linda suggested staying in a hostel. (I had never stayed in a hostel before.) (Or haven’t since and never will again!) Anyway, we got to our hostel and found out that the 4-person, 2 bunk-bed rooms were co-ed. What? Wait! I am not sharing a room with a man. Period!

I was ready to spend any amount of money to get us a room in a hotel/motel or any reasonable accommodation that did not include a strange man listening to me snore! But we had brought all our own food to prepare in the hostel kitchen, so I put on my big girl panties, plus every other article of clothing I had brought along and decided to just go with the flow. But the bottom bunks had already been claimed when we got there. And with my arthritic body I wasn’t going to climb up to the top bunk. So, the delightful young man, as it turned out, who was one of our roommates, offered me his bottom bunk but I declined. So, he helped me move the top bunk mattress to the floor where I slept for the couple of nights we spent in hostel hell. (And no there was nothing we read or were told about the hostel that referenced co-ed in the reservation process. So, be advised, if you plan to stay in a hostel, you might want to call before booking and ask a few pertinent questions. Better to be informed than gob smacked like we were!)

The only good part of staying in the hostel was cooking in the community kitchen and feeding anyone who needed an extra little bit of sustenance. (I do so love to feed people.) But stay in a hostel ever again? Not even if Mark Harmon was one of my bunkmates! Or, I should say, especially if MH was one of my room mates. Yikes! How horrible would that be to have to confess to him that I would be getting up at least 3 times every night to go to the bathroom! These are the things of which nightmares are made! But enough about hostile hostels and back to our exploratory drive.  

In order to not bore you more than I already have, I’m going to make this next part short and sweet. We drove through Tofino, bought fresh fish (halibut and scallops for dinner), drove down to Ucluelet, then back to camp.

Back in camp I wrote up this trip report until it was time to cook dinner. (And yes, it was still raining.) But who cares. We were dry, warm, and had plenty of provisions to ward off hunger or alcohol deprivation. For dinner I made a big salad and fried up the halibut and scallops we had bought in Tofino. I’ve never had better halibut. I simply sprinkled seasoned salt and pepper on one side and fried the fish in half olive oil, half butter and served it with a simple fresh lemon and mayonnaise aioli. Absolutely yum!

Then I read some of my book, wrote up this day’s report, and luxuriated in another early trundle off to bed. Another wonderful day in Canada.

Wednesday, September 18, 2024 – Bella Pacifica Campground

Well, we decided today was going to be another quiet day in camp. It wasn’t raining, and the sun was trying its darndest to break through the clouds, but to no avail. So, after a late breakfast we decided to try and find the hostel where I stayed all those years ago. But nothing we found looked or felt familiar at all. (I have a suspicion that some other unsuspecting guest might have burned the building down years ago. Of course, I’m sure that didn’t happen. And no, it wasn’t me! I didn’t do it!)

Next, we searched out where we were going for dinner that evening. That we found. Then into the sculpture garden parking lot that I immediately remembered from all those years ago. Yes, we found the place, but it was closed for the season. Then we decided to check out where the other half find lodging when they visit this area. In other words, the posh resorts. And oh my, there are some pretty fancy digs in this area now. Big money has found its way to this remote spot.

And I sure as heck can understand the appeal. This unbelievably beautiful area with its rugged coastline, numerous offshore islands, abundance of wildlife, surfing opportunities, and lush forests is just such a restful place to leave the hustle and bustle of life behind. It is simply, a nature lovers paradise. And for all you biking enthusiasts, there are biking trails everywhere you look.

After our drive we came back to camp for Andy to take a beach walk and me to do some writing.  Some views from the back of our trailer.

After Andy returned it was time for us to go back into Tofino for dinner. But first a bit of a walk around the many shops and galleries.

For dinner we chose The Schooner Restaurant and had a first-class meal. Had a chance to talk with a charming couple from Alberta that were sitting next to us. Every time we begin a conversation with any unknown person or persons, usually a couple, especially when we are traveling outside the US, I want to start by apologizing for what is happening politically in our country. And inevitably, they just smile and wait for us to bring the name of a certain former president into the conversation. Then they just shake their heads and empathize with us. Because what is happening in America is adversely affecting their nation as well as making America look like a country of unintelligent jerks. So, we do our best to let them know that we aren’t all idiots. And that those of us with half a brain, absolutely hate what is happening to women’s rights, immigrant status, civility, humanity, empathy, and all the other bedrock tenets of democracy. And that hopefully in our upcoming election, good will win over evil.

And then they tell us that their country is also having problems. And I don’t care what country you care to mention. There are seemingly problems everywhere.

After our lovely dinner, it was back to the trailer for another few chapters in our respective books. Which reminds me, I am currently reading Harlan Coben’s second published novel, Miracle Cure. And I especially loved reading the note Mr. Coban wrote about this book many years after it was first published, which BTW was in 1991 when he was in his early twenties.   

He wrote, “Okay, if this is the first book of mine you’re going to try, stop now. Return it. Grab another. It’s okay. I’ll wait.” (BTW, I’m loving the book.) But then, I love Mr. Coben’s writing.

Then it was off to bed to be rocked to sleep by the sound of gentle waves washing up on shore.

Thursday, September 19, 2024 – Bella Pacifica Campground

Took our time waking up and getting started on our day. But soon we had happy tummies and were ready to set off for another day of adventure.

First stop – the Ucluelet Aquarium in (you guessed it) Ucluelet (or as the natives refer to their town – U-kee). And what a nice aquarium this turned out to be.

Hanging on the outside of the aquarium

This is a non-profit aquarium. It opened on June 1, 2012. The aquarium exhibits marine plant and animal life (invertebrates and fishes) native to the west coast of Vancouver Island. The aquarium fosters an “up close and personal” visitor experience through their educational approach, which encourages active participation with staff and volunteers in learning about the marine life on display.

All the specimens in the exhibits, with the exception of freshwater juvenile salmon, are collected from the nearby Pacific Ocean, specifically from Barkley Sound and Clayoquot Sound, and are seasonally released back into the ocean.

After our visit to the aquarium, we stopped for some fried calamari and cod and chips. Then a few provisions at the local Co-op (grocery store) and back to camp to bask in the lovely afternoon sunshine. Well, bask might be a bit of an exaggeration. I stayed in the trailer to write up this report. Andy went for a short beach walk and came back and got his down jacket so he could stay outside to read.

Then it was time for me to start dinner.

After a late dinner we did the same thing we do most evenings whether we are at home or on the road. We read until we can’t keep our eyes open.

And I know, for some of you, reading every evening puts us in the “boy are these two boring individuals” category. We will gladly accept that assessment. Because we also go to a lot of plays, concerts, opera presentations, dinners at friends’ homes, etc. And don’t forget the 3 or 4 trips we take every year. Or all of Andy’s gigs. But for us, being in our golden years, there are still hundreds of books we want to read before we pass on to never-never land. And I don’t have any idea where or if there is a never-never land. But if there is, mine will be filled with wonderful books and an eternity to read every single one of them! And to never-never again have to go to bed before finishing my current book. And I’m pretty sure Andy feels the same way. Except in Andy’s case, our Bösendorfer piano would have to go along with him. (That would make me happy too.) But enough about the afterlife. We are content to stay a while longer on planet Earth just for all the natural beauty that surrounds us. And it doesn’t get much lovelier than where we are right now.

Friday, September 20, 2024 – Bella Pacifica Campground

Woke to sunny skies. Delightful.

After breakfast we decided to take another drive to see what we could find. First stop – Grice Bay. And wow, was that a beautiful place.  

Then we tried to go to the visitor’s center for the Pacific Rim National Park. But it was closed for a cultural event. So, we went in and out a few other offshoots of the main highway, until we decided we had seen everything we wanted to see.

Before returning to the trailer, we went to the same fish market where we had purchased the wonderful halibut and scallops, we had dined on three evenings before and bought the same combination again. And I’m going to cook them exactly the way I did that evening. (Can hardly wait for dinner.)

Then back to the trailer for a small lunch and Andy to take a walk to Tonquin Beach.

While Andy went for his walk, I took my book outside to catch a few rays and hopefully not freeze in place.

Well, as it turned out it was too bloody cold to sit outside, so I stayed inside and wrote a bit and read a whole heck of a lot.

When Andy returned, I cooked dinner, we played 4 or 5 rounds of Bend Dominoes, then it was off to the land of nod for both of us. Our last night at this perfect location.

End of part three. Two more to come.                              

Part 2 – Paradise RV Park, Parksville, Vancouver Island

Thursday, September 12, 2024 – Paradise RV Park, Parksville, Vancouver Island – site 9

After an easy hitch-up, we were on our way to our next destination at 10 minutes after 11:00 am. After being stopped for road construction, we still arrived at the Vesuvius ferry terminal at about 11:30 am. We were directed to the center line and told we would definitely make the next crossing. (Always good news.)  

Andy went for coffee while I rolled down my window and dove into my current book – Eight Perfect Murders by Peter Swanson. And wow, what a story. I’ve decided that from now on, I am going to include in my recipe prefaces and on my travel logs, what book I am currently reading. I love “who done it” books, but I also like to read a smattering of classics. So, I figured everyone needs book recommendations periodically, especially ones that someone else has found entertaining. But back to sitting in line at the ferry dock. There are actually six ways to get off Salt Spring Island. By air, by private boat, swimming (not recommended), and one of three ferry options. We chose the Vesuvius to Crofton option because it got us closer to our destination – Parksville.

Look at that sky as we crossed from Salt Spring Island to Vancouver Island.

The other options that we could have taken – Ganges (Long Harbor) to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island or Fulford Bay to Swartz Bay. So, after a delightful 20-minute ride, we were driving north on Vancouver Island to Parksville.

Upon arrival we went to check in and found that the reservation I had made months before had not been described to me accurately. Our original reserved site, number 3, was a site that backed into woods, even though it was described as an ocean view site. Although in all fairness, if the trees hadn’t been there, we could have seen the ocean. But being the pain in the ass that I am, I told the nice young man that I wanted a site that bloody well had an OCEAN VIEW! Because that was what I had reserved and what was plainly stated on my confirmation sheet. As it turned out, site number 9 for motor homes was available. We took it!

I tried to explain to the young man at the reservation desk that we would be going into site number 3 for just a few minutes before heading to number 9 because we needed to dump both our grey water and black water holding tanks. But the poor guy had no idea what I was talking about when I mentioned grey and black water. He just kept insisting that we go straight to site number 9. Of course, he was extremely busy the whole time we were talking because this RV park also offers bumper boats and miniature golf to not only the campers but everyone up and down the Discovery Coast. And the place was packed with people needing his attention. He never understood my reasoning. I tried several times to explain that the hook up for motor homes was on the opposite side from trailers. Motor homes just pull straight into a site, so the power etc. in on the left side as seen from the road. But with trailers, we back them into a site so the power etc. is on the right when you look at the site from the road. He is probably still trying to figure it out! For all I know, he may still be wondering what a hook-up is! So, to spell it out for those of you who are unfamiliar with what I am talking about, allow me to explain what we did.  

We first pulled into our new site truck first. We then dumped our black and grey water, then Andy backed out of the site. Then he drove out of the RV area, went into a large parking lot and turned around, and came back to the site from the opposite direction.  He then backed our trailer with its lovely big back window up against the sea. We knew there would not be any problem hooking up the water and electricity because we have plenty of length on both our water hose and electric line. And that there was no problem not being hooked up for 4 nights to the septic system. We would simply dump when we got to our next campground.

Our view from the trailer’s back window.

Once we were parked and I had stripped myself off the ceiling, it was time for me to make us a late lunch. Then it was plunk down in our comfy camp chairs outside and read until it was time to make dinner. Then read some more until it was time for an early-to-bed, at least for me. First day in “Paradise”. And just so you know, 2 other trailers did just the same thing we did. They decided that for at least this trip, they too were driving motor homes.

Friday, September 13, 2024 – Paradise RV Park

Slept long and hard. Woke to clouds and the promise of rain. And through our back window, I quickly perceived that the bay water was gone.

OK, the water wasn’t all gone. But there was enough gone for me to wonder if someone had inadvertently pulled the plug!  I also quickly realized that Andy was also missing. But even without my glasses, I could see someone that walked just like him way out on the sandy flats.

Out on the mud flats looking back at the shore and our parked trailer.

Bonfire out on the flats just waiting to be lit.

Closer in view of the shore with the back of our trailer smack dab in the middle again.

Andy got back to the trailer after a few minutes and eventually the water must have missed the shore, because it eventually came back too.

During breakfast, the heavens opened, and it began to rain in earnest. But never to be denied a bit of fun each day, we decided rain be damned, we needed an adventure.

While we were driving from Crofton (the ferry landing on Vancouver Island) north to Parksville, we quickly realized that we were in vacation country. RV parks, motels, hotels, restaurants, galleries, cute little boutique shops, museums, and every possible type of tourist trap you could imagine, were still in full tourist mode. So, our first few visits today were to the RV parks in the vicinity. We decided they each had some interesting qualities, but we would be content with where we were currently parked.    

Then up the coast as far as Qualicum Beach before we headed back to camp for lunch and for me to write and Andy to read. And yes, it rained the entire time we were driving.

We had decided that we would go out for dinner that night. So, when we returned to camp after our ride, I did some research. What I learned was that the Bayshore Restaurant and Lounge in The Bayside Oceanfront Resort, which just happened to be right next door to our RV park, had a first-class menu and very good reviews. So, I made a reservation, and we were seated within 5 minutes of locking our trailer door.

The food was marvelous, and our table was right next to the window looking out on the water. So, we had a lovely evening.

Then back to our home away from home for me to finish my book and start a new one. More to come about my new read. But that can wait until what seemed like a long overdue assignation with my pillow.

Saturday, September 14, 2024 – Paradise RV Park

After a good night’s sleep, I awoke to clouds with a bit of sunshine peeking through. The sun really wanted to present itself more, but the clouds would have nothing to do with sharing the sky. But eventually around 11:00 am, the sun took over for a few hours. There were still clouds here and there, but it was warm enough to shed some layers and go for a ride.

Andy thought he remembered going to a Provincial Park in this area when he was a boy. So, we decided to take a ride and see if going through the camping area of the park he had in mind brought back any memories. The park, Englishman River Falls, is right next to the Englishman River (duh), and he thought those sites looked familiar. So, that was fun.

Then we just followed a few roads that looked interesting until we decided to stop at a BC Liquor store for a bit of provisioning and then up to Qualicum Beach for fish and chips.

Earlier in our trailer trips, the only time we would eat out was for lunch if we were on our way to a new destination. But since I’ve gotten older, I appreciate not cooking three meals a day. So, every two days or so, we have one of our daily meals out. And that suits me just fine. Sometimes it’s not possible to dine out because we are so far from civilization with decent cafés or restaurants, that it seems silly to eat mediocre food when I can jolly well cook something tastier in the trailer. And of course, that’s just what I do. But, when the opportunity presents itself, I enjoy the heck out of someone cooking for me.

After our mid-afternoon lunch, we came back to camp to sit in the sun and read. Well, that didn’t last long. There was a cold breeze coming off the water and we soon sequestered ourselves in our cozy trailer.

But sure enough, the wind died down and the sun came out, so off to the 36-hole mini golf course we proceeded. I came in two strokes ahead on the first 18. On the second 18, I completely lost it, and Andy stopped taking score. (He knows where his bread is buttered!) Anyway, we had a great time and made it back to our trailer just in time for the rain to start. You would think we were still in the Pacific Northwest. But I suppose the Canadians refer to this as the Pacific Southwest. But basically, it’s all the same regardless of what it might call itself! Note to self: Ask a local if we are currently in the Pacific Southwest. That only makes sense. But then, when does anything that makes sense happen?

Since it was almost 6:00 pm, and I had no idea where I was, cocktails were in order.

With martini in hand, I wrote up todays adventures and now must stop writing and cook dinner. Meatloaf (made at home before we left) and corn on the cob we purchased on Salt Spring Island.

After dinner it was a rousing few games of Bend Dominoes. Then we read our books until all the letters started to blur. And finally, we took those 8 arduous steps to find ourselves nestled in our snug queen-sized bed, while visions of adventures danced in our heads. 

Sunday, September 15, 2024 – Paradise RV Park

Just another day in Paradise. After a late breakfast, we decided to head back to Nanaimo and take a short ferry ride to Gabriola Island. (“Gabe” to the residents and locals.)

Our mighty Toyota Tundra out for another ferry ride.

BTW, Gabriola Island is the furthest northern island in the Gulf Islands which is part of the Gulf Islands/San Juan Islands archipelago. (Called the Gulf Archipelago.)

The tip of Lopez Island being at the southernmost point. But back to Gabriola Island.   

Had a bit of difficulty finding the ferry dock in Nanaimo, but once there and ticket purchased, we were soon on our way on yet another BC ferry. And I must say, (sorry Suzie), that BC ferries have got the whole “ferry thing” down pat. From the ticket booth person to the crew that gets us on the boat, to the people that direct us off the boat, we were in very respectful, capable hands. The signage however, to direct us to the boat and what to do when we actually found the terminal, sucked! Big time! You practically had to have been born in the area to understand just exactly what they wanted you to do, and when they wanted you to do it! (And yes, BC folks, riding a ferry is not our first rodeo (so to speak). But a little signage would have been ever so helpful. So, ferry folks – thanks for being so wonderful. Ferry officials who sit in glass towers and feel no directions are necessary because “everyone” already knows how to find these hidden terminals, may the bird of paradise fly up your corporate noses!) (OK, I feel better now. Thanks for listening.)

But once on the island, we were enchanted. Very rural feel, with lots of beautiful homes and wooded areas. Just a few cleared fields. But on those cleared areas cows, horses, sheep, and at least one lama.

Then to the only shopping area we found on the island for a quick sandwich purchase, and back to line up for the next ferry back to Vancouver Island.

BTW – This ferry did not run on a schedule. When the boat gets full (or almost full), they head for the opposite shore. There are two boats which can each accommodate approximately 47 cars. The crossing takes about 20 minutes. So, at either end we didn’t have to wait at all.

Then a bit of grocery shopping in Parksville before returning to camp. The sun was shining, so before dinner we sat in our comfy camping chairs and read until it was time for me to start dinner. A beautiful way to spend a lazy late summer day.

I love it here. The people are friendly and between the water and the mountains it feels just like home. And what can be finer than that!

End of part two. Three more to come.