Category Archives: SAUCE AND GRAVY RECIPES

THE 5 MOTHER SAUCES OF CLASSICAL CUISINE (MADE EASY)

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“Sensible shortcuts” is the way Mr. C refers to my recipes for the magnificent 5 classical French mother sauces. This statement came the day after we had watched the charming movie “The 100 Foot Journey” starring Helen Mirren. On the way home from the movie Mr. C had asked me all about these sauces. I knew for sure about Béchamel, Velouté, and Hollandaise, but I was unsure of the other two, although, as it turns out, I have been making all 5 of these sauces most of my adult life. Of course the way I prepare each sauce is not exactly the way they are prepared by a Michelin 3 star chef! You think! (And yes, I did read up on how to prepare these sauces in Mastering the Art of French Cooking.) As it turns out, my recipes are certainly close to how the masters prepare their sauces, but mine are easier. And since I have never really tasted the “real thing”, I find mine an acceptable substitute. (Well of course I do!)

But I do know how to use each of these mothers (sauces that is), and really, isn’t that the important thing! And I’m sure after you read the recipes for these 5 classics you will realize you have been making your own version of these recipes for years too. Every time you make a white sauce, you are making the French classic Béchamel Sauce. Each time you start a spaghetti sauce, you are making a version of the French classic Sauce Tomate. And good old fashioned chicken or beef gravy; your take on Velouté Sauce (chicken sauce/gravy) and Espagnole Sauce (beef sauce/gravy). And Hollandaise Sauce; merely an extremely rich and decadent butter and lemon emulsion.

So below, please find my way of preparing each of these classic sauces. Each one is lovely by itself, but fabulous as a base for an endless variety of flavors you can achieve through the inclusion of just a few additional key ingredients. With each recipe I have included a few of my favorite dishes starting with the basic sauce.

And for all you foodies out there, if you really want to treat your culinary senses to a non-edible gastronome experience, go see the movie. In truth the movie is more of a fable or fairy tale than a believable story, but the cooking scenes alone are worth the price of admission. Bon Appétit!

Béchamel Sauce (basic white sauce)

  • 2 T. (¼ stick) unsalted butter
  • 3 T. all-purpose flour
  • 2 c. milk, heated to almost boiling (or more to reach desired thickness)
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • pinch white pepper

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan. Do not let the butter turn even the least bit brown. Whisk in the flour and cook slowly for about 2 minutes. Slowly stir in the hot milk, salt and pepper; let simmer gently for about 2 minutes or until thick and creamy.

Common Uses: To prepare creamed vegetable dishes (always with a tiny bit of freshly grated nutmeg), base for cream soups, lasagna (my Lasagna Bolognese calls for Béchamel Sauce), cheese sauce for macaroni and cheese or fresh veggies, and mustard sauce to accompany roast meats (just add a little Dijon)

Lasagna Bolognese

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Velouté Sauce (chicken flavored sauce)

  • 2 T. unsalted butter
  • 3 T. all-purpose flour
  • 2 c. boiling chicken stock
  • kosher salt to taste
  • white pepper to taste

Melt butter in a heavy saucepan. Do not let the butter turn even the least bit brown. Whisk in the flour and cook slowly for about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk in the hot chicken stock and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute or until sauce is smooth and velvety. Remove from heat, taste, and add salt if necessary and a very small amount of white pepper. Remember: white pepper actually has a stronger flavor than black pepper, so use sparingly.

Common Uses: Mushroom sauce for pasta, shrimp sauce, base for chicken stew, chicken pot pie, chicken and biscuits, and gravy for roast chicken

Chicken Gravy

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Espagnole Sauce (beef flavored sauce sometimes called Brown Sauce or Sauce Brune)

  • 2 T. unsalted butter
  • ½ c. diced onions
  • ¼ c. diced carrot
  • ¼ c. diced celery
  • 2 T. all-purpose flour
  • 3 c. commercially prepared or homemade beef stock (see recipe for homemade beef stock below)
  • 2 T. red wine
  • 1 T. tomato paste
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 T. chopped fresh parsley

In a heavy sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the mirepoix (term for the combination of onion, carrot, and celery) to the butter and sauté for about 5 minutes or until the veggies are lightly browned. Whisk in the flour and cook for about 5 minutes or until the paste (roux) turns a lovely light brown. (Watch carefully so that it does not burn. It will smell kind of nutty when it is done.) Whisk in the beef stock, red wine, and the tomato paste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and add the bay leaf, thyme, and parsley. Simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes or until mixture has reduced by about one-third. Stir frequently. Discard bay leaf. If a smooth consistency is required, purée the sauce in a blender or food processor.

Common Uses: Base for beef stew, beef pot pie, beef gravy, Swiss steak, beef stroganoff, and as a delicious drizzle over grilled steak

Beef Stew

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Homemade Beef Stock

  • 3 lbs. beef and veal meat, bones and scraps
  • 1 onion, chunked
  • 1 carrot, chunked
  • 2 sprigs parsley
  • 6 black peppercorns
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 3 qt. cold water

Spread meat and bones out on a large rimmed baking pan. Bake at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes or until the meat, bones and scraps are well browned. Remove from oven and allow to cool for a few minutes. Transfer bones and all drippings to a large covered stock pot. With a small amount of water, lift all the browned bits off the bottom of the baking pan and add to stock pot. Add onion, carrot, parsley, pepper corns, bay leaf, and water. Bring liquid to a simmer, cover, and cook gently for about 4 hours. Remove from heat. Let cool for about 30 minutes. Slowly strain into another container. Discard bones and vegetables. Chill broth. (I usually refrigerate overnight.) Lift off as much of the fat as possible from the top of the now thin jelly like broth.

Hollandaise Sauce

  • 4 egg yolks
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • ½ tsp. dry mustard
  • 1 T. fresh lemon juice (must be from a real, picked from a tree, lemon)
  • dash hot sauce
  • ½ c. (¼ lb.) butter

Put all ingredients in blender except butter. Cover and whirl for 30 seconds. Melt butter until very hot. Add to blender in a steady stream through the little lid in the big lid until mixture is completely emulsified. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Common Uses: Eggs Benedict, slathered over cooked veggies (asparagus is our favorite), served over scrambled eggs that have been scooped onto cut croissants, and my personal favorite – dolloped onto any kind of baked, poached, or BBQ’d seafood. (Well actually, that’s not quite accurate. My all time favorite way to eat hollandaise is with a spoon, right out of the container in the refrigerator.)

Asparagus topped with Hollandaise

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Sauce Tomate (basic tomato sauce – recipe number 1)

  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 T. butter
  • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 lg. carrot, diced
  • 1 c. chopped celery
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 (28-oz. cans) Italian tomatoes (chopped, diced, or whole – your choice)
  • 2 c. chicken or beef stock
  • ½ c. dry white wine
  • 2 T. tomato paste
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch sugar
  • 1 bay leaf
  • ½ tsp. dried thyme
  • 2 T. chopped fresh Italian parsley

Pour olive oil and place butter into a large covered sauce pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and sauté until onion is tender. Stir in the canned tomatoes, stock, wine, tomato paste, pepper, sugar, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley. Cover pan and bring contents to a low boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently for about 2 hours. Stir frequently. Add water if mixture becomes too thick. After 2 hours, adjust seasoning. Discard bay leaf. Purée the sauce in a blender or food processor if a smooth consistency is required.

Note: If the sauce is not as thick as desired, mash 1 tablespoon flour into 1 tablespoon room temperature butter and whisk into sauce. Stir for about 2 minutes or until thick. Not thick enough; repeat process.

Common Uses: basic vegetarian base for any pasta dish calling for red sauce, eggplant Parmesan, chicken cacciatore, etc.

Sauce Tomate

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Sauce Tomate – Classic Marinara Sauce (recipe number 2)

  • 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ c. chopped onion
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 (28-oz.) can chopped or diced tomatoes (Italian tomatoes preferably)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • pinch crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 T. chopped fresh basil leaves
  • 1-2 T. butter, optional

In a large covered sauce pan, heat the oil over medium high heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for an additional minute. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, oregano, salt, and pepper. Stir to combine ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes. (Take the lid off part way if the sauce is too thin.) Remove from heat, remove bay leaf, add basil and adjust seasoning. If the sauce tastes acidic, add butter 1 tablespoon at a time to round out the flavor.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SEARED SCALLOPS WITH BEURRE BLANC SAUCE

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So, just to prove that I can cook fairly sophisticated food when need be, I decided to post this recipe for seared scallops. Actually, I was recently asked if I would give a class on sauces, especially sauces for seafood, but I had to respectfully decline. I’m already way over committed, plus my good friend Gay and I made a pact on New Year’s Eve that in 2014 we would get a whole lot better at saying no. Two months ago she told me she had said no to what would entail a great deal of effort on her part, something to do with a conference if I remember correctly, and I had nothing to contribute. Now at least I can tell her next time we meet that I too have conquered my addiction to the word “yes”. And just like with any other addiction, it wasn’t easy for me to break my lifelong habit. It actually took me a few days to come to my decision, but I know I made the right one. But I did promise the person that requested the class that I would post a recipe for an easy and almost fool proof recipe for beurre blanc within the next few days.

So here ladies and gentleman is my way of preparing one of the best known classic sauces. Considering that you only need a very small glazing of this simple and elegant sauce to add a depth of unparalleled flavor to any type of simple seafood preparation, any lack of healthy attributes in the sauce can and should be forgiven. (My subtle way of telling you that this sauce is full of “f” and “c” – fat and calories.) But truly, a tablespoon or two is sufficient. In fact, any more would take on the aspect of “gilding the lily”. Which brings up a subject near and dear to my heart; the idea that if some is good, a whole lot is better!

I believe this notion of more, more, more is one of the differences between an OK cook, and a really excellent cook. In fact, I think the better the cook, the more that person is able to show restraint. An excellent cook doesn’t over season food. Or add too much cheese, for example, or ever allow any one ingredient to overpower all the other flavors in a dish. If I may use a musical analogy, no section of a choir, band or orchestra should ever be allowed to drown out the sound of all the other singers or instrumentalists. The term we use musically is “blend”. And that’s exactly what we want to achieve in every dish we prepare – a perfect blend or marriage of flavors. Every ingredient should compliment every other ingredient. In other words, we should simply not allow any one ingredient to become a bully! And to take the concept one step further, we shouldn’t allow a base, like pasta, rice, or as in this recipe, perfectly seared scallops to be ruined by too much sauce.

In conclusion (I feel like I have been delivering a lecture and lectures always come with a conclusion) I should at least mention that the seared scallops in this recipe are pretty darned delicious too! (Nothing new or exciting about the preparation, in fact, possibly the easiest way there ever was to cook a scallop.)

So next time you are in the mood for a seafood dish that’s fit for even the most discerning palate in your family or group of friends, give this recipe a try. It is simply a perfect marriage of flavors.

Beurre Blanc Sauce:

  • 1 shallot, very finely chopped
  • ½ c. dry white wine
  • 1 T. fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
  • 2 tsp. heavy cream
  • 6 T. cold unsalted butter, cubed
  • pinch kosher salt
  • pinch white pepper
  • cut fresh chives, garnish, opt.

Combine the shallot, white wine, and lemon juice in a non-reactive fry pan over high heat and reduce to 1 tablespoon. Reduce heat and whisk in the cream. Once the liquid bubbles whisk in the butter one cube at a time until there are only 2 or 3 cubes left. Remove from heat and continue whisking while adding the last few butter cubes. Continue whisking until the mixture is fully emulsified. Add the salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning. To keep the sauce warm while you cook the scallops, place the fry pan over a bowl of hot water.

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Seared Scallops:

  • 8 good sized scallops (or as many as you need)
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 T. vegetable oil, or more as needed to lightly coat the bottom of your pan

Pat the scallops dry with paper towels. Lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a fry pan until just about smoking. Add the scallops and sauté for about a minute or until you start to see brown around the lower edges of the scallops. Flip the scallops and cook for about another minute. Remove from pan and serve lightly glazed with the Beurre Blanc sauce and garnished with fresh chives. Serve immediately.

 

 

CHICKEN PARMESAN

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A couple of days ago I asked Mr. C. what he would like for dinner. He usually responds with either “whatever you feel like fixing” or “anything is fine with me” or words to that effect.  But this time he said he would love some Chicken Parmesan. No problem. I could just look up the recipe in one of my own cookbooks and be on my merry way. Well low and behold; I had never written out a recipe for Chicken Parmesan. (Out of 888 recipes contained in those 2 cookbooks, you would think there would be a recipe for Chicken Parmesan.) But no cigar! So that meant I had to do some research. So I started by looking in my 2  favorite sources for all food Italian – Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Marcella Hazan) and The Splendid Table (Lynne Rosetto Kasper). Nothing. Turns out Chicken Parmesan is not an Italian classic. In fact it’s about as American as apple pie! Hmph!

So never being one to be afraid of a challenge, I took the bold step of going online. My exploratory journey took me far and wide. But it finally came to rest on this recipe by Giada De Laurentiis. (Well the chicken part is Giada’s, with a few minor changes, but the Marinara Sauce is my very own.)

I liked the look of Giada’s recipe immediately because there was no breading action required. Not that I’m lazy or don’t appreciate a nicely breaded and sautéed cutlet, but with all the other rich ingredients cuddling up to the partially fried chicken, I felt it totally unnecessary to add more steps and not coincidentally more calories to an already very rich dish.

So the following recipe is my answer to the age old question – what would you like for dinner dear? I hope the next time I ask Mr. C. that question I will again be required to do some research. For me, a lot of the pleasure associated with cooking is in trying new recipes. (One of the reasons I never wanted to be a cook in a restaurant. I’d be forced to cook the same things over and over. I’d go stir crazy, both literally and figuratively!) So for me, most of the pleasure of adapting or creating new recipes is in the hunt. No guns required!

I hope you enjoy the recipe. Lovely served with a green or a Caesar salad and a side of buttered pasta.

  • 2 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • ½ tsp. chopped fresh rosemary leaves
  • ½ tsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves
  • ½ tsp. chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
  • 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts
  • kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 c. Marinara Sauce, recipe follows, or purchased marinara sauce
  • 1/3 c. shredded mozzarella
  • ¼ c. grated Parmesan
  • 1 T. unsalted butter

Whisk 1 tablespoon of the oil and herbs together in a small bowl. Set aside. Cut each chicken breast into three pieces. First cut off the thinner end. Then slice the thicker end in half horizontally. (Or if the chicken breasts are fairly small and of uniform thickness, just slice in half lengthwise.) Dry off the chicken pieces with paper towels if necessary and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Brush both sides of the cutlets with the herb oil. Heat a large heavy oven-proof skillet containing the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil over high heat. Carefully whirl the pan so that the oil coats the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken pieces and fry just until brown, about 2 minutes per side. Remove the skillet from the heat.

Spoon the Marinara Sauce over and around the cutlets. Sprinkle the mozzarella and Parmesan evenly over each piece of chicken. Cut the butter into very small bits and scatter over all. Bake in a pre-heated 500 degree oven for 3-5 minutes or until the cheese melts and the chicken is cooked through.

Marinara Sauce:

  • 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil
  • ½ c. chopped onion
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 (28-oz.) can chopped or diced tomatoes (Italian tomatoes preferably)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • pinch crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • ½  tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 T. chopped fresh basil leaves
  • 1-2 T. butter, optional

In a large covered sauce pan, heat the oil over medium high heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for an additional minute. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, oregano, salt, and pepper.  Stir to combine ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer for about 30 minutes. (Take the lid off part way if the sauce is too thin.) Remove from heat, remove bay leaf, add basil and adjust seasoning. If the sauce tastes acidic, add butter 1 tablespoon at a time to round out the flavor.

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Note: this is a very basic marinara sauce that can be used in a myriad of recipes. Leftover sauce freezes beautifully.

 

 

PIQUANT TARTAR SAUCE

I love seafood. And I know I should love it best when it is baked, grilled or poached, but there are just those times when my entire body yearns for fried fish with a yummy tartar sauce on the side. And really, who am I to deny my body anything it really begs for, especially since it has been ever so good to me over the years?

And since I pretty much gave up desserts at the first of the year, I feel almost obliged to reward my body with at least one of the foods it periodically craves. (That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!) So the other evening I gave in to my bodies demands and fixed fried cod and this tartar sauce.

Now I almost always make my own tartar sauce and this evening was no exception. But I was in the mood for something different. So I went in search of tartar sauce recipes on the internet. Do you know how many recipes there are for tartar sauce out there in cyberspace? Thousands, maybe even millions! So doing what I usually do I looked at several sites and came up with this version which is a conglomeration of several of the recipes I thought looked mighty tasty.

Well the upshot is that Mr. C. and I thought this was really, really good. And it took no time at all to whip up. Better and better! And yes I could have taken a picture of the sauce, but truly, who does not know what tartar sauce looks like? I figured taking a picture of the sauce would almost be an insult to you all. But if there happens to be any one out there for whom tartar sauce is an unknown (as they say in the vernacular) “commodity”, please go on line and search for “tartar sauce recipes”. You will soon be provided with more pictures of small bowls filled with white stuff than you ever dreamed imaginable.

  • ½ c. mayonnaise
  • ½ c. sour cream
  • 1 T. drained capers
  • 2 T. rough chopped dill pickle
  • 1 small shallot, peeled and rough chopped
  • 2 tsp. chopped flat leaf parsley
  • 1T. fresh lemon juice, or to taste
  • 1/8 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
  • ½ tsp. course grained mustard
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper

In a small food processor, combine all the ingredients and pulse several times until the pickle is finely chopped and all of the ingredients are well mixed but not pureed. Adjust seasonings and refrigerate several hours before serving.

 

CREAMY CHICKEN GRAVY

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Ok, isn’t fried or roasted chicken really all about the gravy? I mean truly, what is chicken, or life for that matter, without a little sauce to smooth out the rough edges. And I’m telling you, this gravy can fix any boo boo, can lift any spirits that need lifting, or can turn your day from mundane to magnificent in just a few minutes time. All it takes are a few simple ingredients and a little patience. Well that, and of course some pan drippings. So go forth and fry or bake yourself up a whole chicken or some various chicken parts. Set them aside while you prepare your gravy, have a lovely sip or two of wine, and prepare to forget the cares of the world. Oh, and change into slippers too, that always helps!

  • pan drippings from roasted or fried chicken
  • flour
  • chicken stock
  • heavy cream or milk
  • ½-1 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1-2 chicken gravy mixes (just in case)
  • 1-2 tsp. cognac, opt.

Place the roasting or frying pan on the stove after the chicken has been removed. Turn the heat to very low and begin making your gravy immediately. (Good gravy flavor and consistency require time to develop.)    Do not remove any fat from the pan, do not strain the liquid, do not do any of the things most cook book writers tell you to do to make good gravy (except me, that is!)

Whisk in enough flour to absorb the fat. Let burble for a couple of minutes. (This process takes time, so be patient.) Slowly whisk in equal parts chicken stock and cream (or any combination you prefer) until you reach the desired thickness you like. Add the Kitchen Bouquet (gives the gravy great color) and some freshly ground black pepper. No salt yet! Taste the gravy. If you think it needs more depth of flavor, begin by adding one of the gravy mixes and a small amount of stock. Let it simmer for a couple of minutes and taste again. Add salt at this time if needed.

Turn heat as low as possible and let the gravy simmer away for the next 10 minutes or so, whisking periodically. (You will probably need to add more stock during this time.) Also, after the chicken is plated, don’t forget to add the juices that have accumulated to the gravy.

Just before serving (and gravy should be the last item plated), taste the gravy and make any final adjustments to the seasoning. Stir in the cognac and serve piping hot.

 

 

TURKEY GRAVY WITH COGNAC

All is fair when it comes to making gravy. And truly great gravy starts with the pan drippings left in the bottom of the roasting pan after the turkey has been removed to cool. (And yes, we are talking cholesterol city here, but once or twice a year, leave your worries behind and travel to the dark side!)

For a great recipe for roasted turkey, please see my recipe for Herb Salted Turkey. You will not believe how easy it is to prepare. Happy Thanksgiving.

  • pan drippings from roasted turkey
  • flour
  • turkey or chicken stock
  • 2 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 2-3 turkey gravy mixes (just in case)
  • 2-3 tsp. cognac

Place the roasting pan on the stove after the turkey has been removed. Turn the heat to very low and begin making your gravy immediately. (Good gravy flavor and consistency require time to develop.)    Do not remove any fat from the pan, do not strain the liquid, do not do any of the things most cook book writers tell you to do to make good gravy (except me, that is!)

Whisk in enough flour to absorb the fat. Let burble for a couple of minutes. (This process takes time, so be patient.) Slowly whisk in turkey or chicken stock until you reach the desired thickness you like. Add the Kitchen Bouquet (gives the gravy great color) and some freshly ground black pepper. No salt! Taste the gravy. If you think it needs more depth of flavor, begin by adding one of the gravy mixes and a small amount of turkey stock. Let it simmer for a couple of minutes and taste again. Repeat if needed.

Turn heat as low as possible and let the gravy simmer away for the next 30 minutes or so, whisking periodically. (You will probably need to add more stock during this time.) Also, after the turkey is sliced and plated, don’t forget to add the juices that have accumulated to the gravy.

Just before serving (and gravy should be the last item plated), taste the gravy and make any final adjustments to the seasoning. Stir in the cognac and serve piping hot.

Note: if the gravy seems a little salty, you might try adding a teaspoon or two of fresh lemon juice.

EASY FRIDAY NIGHT FISH FRY!

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To me, there is just nothing better for dinner on a fall or winter Friday night than fish and chips. But I don’t always want to go out for fish, and really, I would prefer not to be tempted by the “chips” that are always a part of the package. So that leaves me with making my own “fish and chips”.

We also love to have dinner companions on Friday nights, so this is my win/win way to entertain and have my favorite Friday night meal. The amounts shown are perfect for 4 normal people.

Even though I am retired, I still like to do a lot of the prep work ahead of time. So the following recipes are designed to take Friday night time constraints and exhaustion levels into consideration.

Although the fish preparation steps need to be done Friday night, the tartar sauce can and actually should be prepared the night before. Also, the dressing for the coleslaw is better if it has time to let its ingredients mingle for awhile. And the cabbage and other veggies can be cut or grated the night before and refrigerated until needed.

So that just leaves the potatoes to get in the oven before you start working on the coleslaw and fish.  And both the coleslaw (mix the dressing into the veggies) and the fish preparation could not be easier.

A little hint: A nice before dinner drink helps a great deal towards making this process run smoother. Even if you don’t drink adult beverages, a simple tonic with a slice of lime makes you feel like the party has already begun.

And because it’s Friday night, and both you and your guests are probably one step from zombie level, forget making any fancy appetizers. Put out a small bowl of olives or nuts, and a couple kinds of raw veggies, and call it good. It’s Friday night people. Time to relax so that you have the strength for all those weekend chores!!

CRISPY FRIED FISH

  • 1/3 c. all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp. seasoned salt
  • 1 egg
  • 1/4 c. dark beer or water
  • 1 c. panko or more as needed
  • oil for frying
  • 1 1/2 – 2 lb. fish fillets (we love cod, halibut, and tilapia)
  •  lemon wedges, opt.

In a shallow dish, combine the flour and seasoned salt. In medium bowl, whisk
together the egg and beer. Place panko in a large re-sealable food-storage
plastic bag. In an electric skillet or deep fryer, heat about an inch of oil to 350 degrees. Coat both sides of the fish with flour mixture. Then dip in beer mixture, letting excess drip back into bowl. Place 1 or 2 pieces of fish at a time in the plastic bag with panko; seal bag and shake to coat completely. Fry fish in batches in hot oil for about 4 minutes, turning once, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.

IVAR’S FAMOUS TARTAR SAUCE

  • 2 T. chopped yellow onion
  • 1 T. chopped green bell pepper
  • 1 ½ tsp. plain old fashioned white vinegar
  •  ¾ tsp. sugar
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 T. dill pickle relish
  • 1 c. mayonnaise

Combine the onions, bell pepper, vinegar, sugar, and salt in a food processor; process for 10 seconds. Add the relish and mayonnaise and process for an additional 10 seconds. Serve chilled. Best made at least a day ahead.

CLASSIC COLESLAW

  • 2/3 c. mayonnaise
  • 1/4 c. minced onion
  • 3 T. minced dill pickle
  • 2 T. pickle brine
  • 2 T. old fashioned white vinegar
  • 2 tsp. prepared creamy horseradish
  • 1 T. sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 c. shredded green cabbage
  • 2 c. shredded red cabbage
  • 1 large grated carrot
  • 1 celery stalk, sliced lengthwise, then cut into very thin slices on the bias

Whirl the mayonnaise through black pepper in a food processor. Prepare at least 1 day ahead, if possible. Combine with veggies about an hour before serving.

ACCORDIAN BAKED POTATOES (HASSELBACK) – from the Relish Section of The Seattle Times

  • 2 T. butter, melted
  • 1 garlic clove, finely minced
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 medium sized Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled

Combine butter, garlic, salt, and pepper. Slice potatoes crosswise, leaving about ½-inch at bottom still attached. (Place pencils on each side of the potatoes when cutting to ensure you don’t slice all the way through.) Using a pastry brush, coat the potatoes with butter mixture, carefully working it between the slices and coating all sides. Place potatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for about 60 minutes or until golden brown, crispy, and soft when pierced with a fork. Serve immediately.

BOURBON BBQ SAUCE

Spring is in the air and I am starting to think more and more about that lonely piece of equipment that lives year round just outside my kitchen door. And yes I know my BBQ can be used all year long, but we live near the crest of a hill on an island. And inherent with island living is an almost constant breeze. Spring, summer, and fall that breeze is welcome. Winter, not so much! So during the winter months I pretty much forget about cooking outside. But it’s spring now, and my bulbs are producing flowers, our weeds are growing, well like weeds, and I’m starting to fantasize about BBQ chicken and ribs. And I must admit, I absolutely adore meat slathered in BBQ sauce. (Just my old sauce addiction rearing its ugly head!) So even though I often apply a dry rub to meat before it goes on the grill, I still want to be able to apply liberal amounts of tangy BBQ sauce to my meat before the succulent flesh passes my lips. So for the next couple of days I’m going to feature 2 of my favorite recipes that begin with a good rub down and end with this BBQ sauce. Here’s to spring and here’s to cooking outside. Cheers! (And yes I am well aware that rubbed meat doesn’t really need a sauce. But I pride myself in never doing anything by half!)

  • ¼ c. butter
  • ¼ c. minced onion
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • ¼ c. brown sugar
  • 2 tsp. whole grain mustard
  • 1 c. ketchup
  • 1/3 c. Worcestershire sauce
  • ¼ c. fresh lemon juice
  • ¼ tsp. hot sauce, or to taste
  • ¼ tsp. cayenne
  • 2 T. bourbon

Melt butter in a medium sized covered saucepan. Sauté onion until caramel colored; add garlic and cook until garlic releases its aroma, about 1 minute. Add remaining ingredients, bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover pan, and simmer gently for at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

 

BLENDER HOLLANDAISE

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I decided I just had to post this recipe for Hollandaise Sauce because Hollandaise is generally regarded as an emulsion that requires a great deal of practice to perfect. Phooey! This incredible sauce is as easy as getting out a blender, putting a few ingredients into said blender, and then melting butter. Sound hard? Right – not in the least. Now if you were to prepare this sauce, probably the most famous and often most dreaded of sauces the correct way, you might be asking for disaster. But using a blender makes the whole process almost foolproof. And do I really care to go through all the effort of trying to force egg yolks to absorb butter and hold it in a creamy suspension to possibly (and in my case probably) end up with curdled eggs? No. Am I willing to live with the knowledge that I cheated and used a blender? You can bet your copy of Mastering the Art of French Cooking that I will happily cheat like this any old time! Give me the tried and true, easy and perfect result every time. Especially when the final product turns out better than most of the Hollandaise served in restaurants today.  So next time you want to dress up a vegetable, scrambled eggs, a plain piece of fish, or make the best Eggs Benedict you’ve ever tasted, give this simple recipe a try. Happy Hollandaise everyone!

  • 4 egg yolks
  • ½ tsp. kosher salt
  • ½ tsp. dry mustard
  • 1 T. fresh lemon juice
  • dash hot sauce
  • ½ c. (1/4 lb.) butter

Put all ingredients in blender except butter. Cover and whirl for 30 seconds. Melt butter until very hot. Add to blender in a steady stream through the little lid in the big lid until mixture is completely emulsified. Serve warm or at room temperature. If you have any left-over Hollandaise, refrigerate until ready to use. Then warm ever so slowly in your microwave. (Warm too quickly and the butter and eggs will separate. Not what you want!) Better yet, don’t warm it at all. Just spoon it over hot scrambled eggs and the heat from the eggs will gently warm the sauce. Yum to the max!

 

 

DEMI-GLACE

This recipe is dedicated to all you gourmets out there who want to create over the top dishes. And tomorrow’s recipe for Stuffed Boneless Leg of Lamb using demi-glace as one of its key ingredients, definitely falls into that category. While I know there are lots of recipes for demi-glace more complicated than this one, trust me, this is bad enough! Oh, it’s not hard. It just takes time. And for some of you, a few hours dedicated to watching water boil might not be the way you would choose to spend your time.  So for those of you who are too busy to see straight or are parents of small children (often one and the same), I would suggest you walk away from this recipe or stick to the version mentioned under “note” in the instructions section. Mind you, I’m not trying to discourage you from making this incredibly rich, highly concentrated French brown sauce.  But please note, demi-glace is mainly used as a base for other sauces. You still need to prepare the dish into which this delicious elixir will be merely another ingredient. So again, I’m not trying to scare you, but sometimes a little shot of reality is appreciated. I am nothing if not practical. And I can practically promise you that even if you have time to spare and the kitchen is the favorite room in your home, you are going to be a little sick of boiling liquid by the time you are finished. So why did I even bother to post this recipe? Because ladies and gentlemen, demi-glace is amazing! It can lift a dish from ho hum to extraordinary faster than Super Man can lift Lois Lane from the arms of a villain. And that’s fast!

  • 12-14 lbs. of bones and scraps of raw or cooked chicken, turkey, beef, pork, and a small amount of lamb
  • 4 onions, chunked
  • 5 carrots, chunked
  • 10 sprigs parsley
  • 12 black peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 5 qt. water

Spread meat and bones out in 2 large rimmed baking pans. (I use turkey or chicken wings and drumsticks, beef bones, a couple pork steaks and the cheapest cut of lamb I can find. I also freeze any scraps I cut off meat for a couple of months before I make demi-glace to make sure I have lots of flavorful ingredients available.) DO NOT SEASON MEAT. Bake at 400 degrees for about 75 minutes or until bones and scraps are well browned. Remove from oven and allow to cool for a few minutes. Transfer bones and all drippings to a large covered stock pot. With a small amount of water, lift all the browned bits off the bottom of the pans and add to stock pot. Add onions, carrots, parsley, pepper corns, bay leaves, and water. DO NOT ADD ANY SALT. Bring liquid to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer for 4 hours. Remove from heat. Let cool for about 30 minutes, then slowly strain into another container. Discard bones and vegetables. Chill broth. (I usually refrigerate overnight.) Lift off as much of the fat as possible from the top of the now thin jelly like broth. Pour or scoop chilled broth back into a heavy pan. Rapidly boil uncovered* until there is only about 4 cups liquid remaining. Divide into 4 containers and freeze until ready to use.

*A helpful hint: your stove top will stay cleaner if you “cover” your boiling pan with a wire mesh splatter guard (they are shaped like a lid). The wire mesh allows the steam to escape, but keeps the mess to a minimum. They also work well when frying fish, chicken, and especially oysters. (Oysters tend to spit at you when they are being fried. I think it’s their way of getting even!)

Note: if you really don’t want to go through all this bother, you can simply reduce about 6 cups of beef broth down to one cup. But start with low sodium broth. It’s still going to be quite salty, and it certainly won’t taste as good as my homemade version, but it will work in a pinch.

Another note: I’m sure you noticed the lack of any type of alcohol in my demi-glace recipe. That’s because my 2 favorite recipes that call for demi-glace have wine as a primary ingredient. So in my opinion, it was best not to use any wine in the demi-glace itself. Watch for my other favorite demi-glace recipe Rack of Lamb with Kalamata Rosemary Crust to be posted in the next couple of weeks.