Since this recipe is part of my St. Patrick’s Day food series, I felt duty bound to tell you a little bit about the history of the infamous solanum tuberosum. According to a potato article written by Linda Stradley of What’s Cooking America, “The potato was carried from South America to Italy and England about 1585, to Belgium and Germany by 1587, to Austria about 1588, and to France around 1600. Wherever the potato was introduced, it was considered weird, poisonous, and downright evil. In France and elsewhere, the potato was accused of causing not only leprosy, but syphilis, narcosis, scrofula, early death, sterility, rampant sexuality, and of destroying the soil where it grew. There was so much opposition to the potato that an edict was made in the town of Besancon, France stating: “In view of the fact that the potato is a pernicious substance whose use can cause leprosy, it is hereby forbidden, under pain of fine, to cultivate it.” In 1589, Sir Walter Raleigh, British explorer and historian known for his expeditions to the Americas, first brought potatoes to Ireland and planted them at his estate in Myrtle Grove, Youghal, (near Cork), Ireland. Legend has it that he made a gift of the potato plant to Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603). The local gentry were invited to a royal banquet featuring the potato in every course. Unfortunately, the cooks were uneducated in the matter of potatoes, tossed out the lumpy-looking tubers and brought to the royal table a dish of boiled stems and leaves (which are poisonous), which promptly made everyone deathly ill. The potatoes were then banned from court.” (All I can say to that is thank God France eventually came to its senses. After all, where would French haute cuisine be without pommes frites? Or McDonalds for that matter!)
So now that we know the historical roots of the potato in Ireland (and elsewhere in Europe), let’s continue with Ireland’s current use of the simple potato. (And yes I know I skipped over one of the most devastating times in Irish history by omitting any reference to the Great Potato Famine (1845-49), but it is simply too sad to even mention in an otherwise light hearted blog.) Potatoes, especially when they are mashed, are high on the list of Irelands favorite method of preparing this lovely tuber. In some cases, kale or cabbage is mixed with the mashed potatoes (Colcannon). My personal favorite is called Champ. Champ is simply creamy mashed potatoes laced with plenty of green onions. Yum! A little story about me when I was a very young child. According to my mom, at the ripe old age of two or so, given the choice between a bowl of ice cream or a green onion, I would invariably choose the green onion. And at about the same age, and because of my passion for them, my parents nicknamed me Patti “mashed potatoes” Merz (my maiden name). So, do you think it any wonder that I find Champ to be absolutely delicious? Feel free to bet your last penny whistle on that one!
- 2 lbs. gold or red potatoes, peeled or unpeeled, cut into same size pieces
- kosher salt
- 1 c. whole milk (or part half and half)
- 3/4 c. thinly sliced green onions
- 6 T. butter, divided
- freshly ground black pepper
- fresh chives, opt. garnish
Place potatoes in a large covered pan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Add a liberal amount of kosher salt, cover, reduce heat and cook until tender. Meanwhile, pour milk into a small saucepan, add green onions and simmer together for 4-5 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of the butter and remove from heat. Stir in a few grinds of pepper. When potatoes are tender, drain and mash them together with the milk and butter mixture. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately topped with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and garnished with chives. Great with corned beef or anytime a creamy, rich, decadent side dish is required.